Skip to main content

Full text of "Memoirs on the Ionian Islands : considered in a commercial, political and military, point of view ; in which their advantages of position are described, as well as their relations with the Greek continent: including the life and character of Ali Pacha, the present ruler of Greece ; together with a comparative display of the ancient and modern geography of the Epirus, Thessaly, Morea, part of Macedonia, &c. &c."

See other formats 


Google 


This  is  a  digital  copy  of  a  book  that  was  preserved  for  generations  on  library  shelves  before  it  was  carefully  scanned  by  Google  as  part  of  a  project 

to  make  the  world's  books  discoverable  online. 

It  has  survived  long  enough  for  the  copyright  to  expire  and  the  book  to  enter  the  public  domain.  A  public  domain  book  is  one  that  was  never  subject 

to  copyright  or  whose  legal  copyright  term  has  expired.  Whether  a  book  is  in  the  public  domain  may  vary  country  to  country.  Public  domain  books 

are  our  gateways  to  the  past,  representing  a  wealth  of  history,  culture  and  knowledge  that's  often  difficult  to  discover. 

Marks,  notations  and  other  maiginalia  present  in  the  original  volume  will  appear  in  this  file  -  a  reminder  of  this  book's  long  journey  from  the 

publisher  to  a  library  and  finally  to  you. 

Usage  guidelines 

Google  is  proud  to  partner  with  libraries  to  digitize  public  domain  materials  and  make  them  widely  accessible.  Public  domain  books  belong  to  the 
public  and  we  are  merely  their  custodians.  Nevertheless,  this  work  is  expensive,  so  in  order  to  keep  providing  tliis  resource,  we  liave  taken  steps  to 
prevent  abuse  by  commercial  parties,  including  placing  technical  restrictions  on  automated  querying. 
We  also  ask  that  you: 

+  Make  non-commercial  use  of  the  files  We  designed  Google  Book  Search  for  use  by  individuals,  and  we  request  that  you  use  these  files  for 
personal,  non-commercial  purposes. 

+  Refrain  fivm  automated  querying  Do  not  send  automated  queries  of  any  sort  to  Google's  system:  If  you  are  conducting  research  on  machine 
translation,  optical  character  recognition  or  other  areas  where  access  to  a  large  amount  of  text  is  helpful,  please  contact  us.  We  encourage  the 
use  of  public  domain  materials  for  these  purposes  and  may  be  able  to  help. 

+  Maintain  attributionTht  GoogXt  "watermark"  you  see  on  each  file  is  essential  for  in  forming  people  about  this  project  and  helping  them  find 
additional  materials  through  Google  Book  Search.  Please  do  not  remove  it. 

+  Keep  it  legal  Whatever  your  use,  remember  that  you  are  responsible  for  ensuring  that  what  you  are  doing  is  legal.  Do  not  assume  that  just 
because  we  believe  a  book  is  in  the  public  domain  for  users  in  the  United  States,  that  the  work  is  also  in  the  public  domain  for  users  in  other 
countries.  Whether  a  book  is  still  in  copyright  varies  from  country  to  country,  and  we  can't  offer  guidance  on  whether  any  specific  use  of 
any  specific  book  is  allowed.  Please  do  not  assume  that  a  book's  appearance  in  Google  Book  Search  means  it  can  be  used  in  any  manner 
anywhere  in  the  world.  Copyright  infringement  liabili^  can  be  quite  severe. 

About  Google  Book  Search 

Google's  mission  is  to  organize  the  world's  information  and  to  make  it  universally  accessible  and  useful.   Google  Book  Search  helps  readers 
discover  the  world's  books  while  helping  authors  and  publishers  reach  new  audiences.  You  can  search  through  the  full  text  of  this  book  on  the  web 

at|http: //books  .google  .com/I 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


'^^ 


?fe 


3SV; 


THE  ROTAL  ENGfflEEBS  CORPS'  LIBRARIES, 


//fr?^^^,-^ 


a^   r^V^ 


BODLEIAN  LIBRARY 

Thipfiof 

Miss  Emma  F.  I.  Dunstott 


"Dm 


_,.,i,z .Google 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


:,,G00gIf 


...tly-'sl^' 


,:,;go 


>glf 


SJi'J 


MEMOIRS 


ISLANDS, 


jCOKaiDBKED  II 


coMiaifiBiafct,  political,  and  military, 

jjg^^OINTOFVIEW, 


THEIK  ADVANTAGES  OF  POSITION  ARI  DESCRIBED,  AS  WELL 
AS  THZIS  RSLATIONa  WITH  THE  GREEK  CONTINENT: 

tKCLVOtlfO 

THE  LIFE  AND  CHARACTER 


ALI  PACHA, 

THE  PRESENT  RULEB  OF  GREECEi 


TOOETHER  «ITH  A  COUPIRATIVE  DISPLAY  OF 

MODRKH  O^OORAPHV  OP  TBB  EPIRUS,  TBESSALV,  UOREl, 


GEN.  GUILLAUME  DE  VAUDONCOUR T, 

LATE  Of   THB   ITALIAN  SERVICE. 

TrantUited  Jrom   the  Original  ittedUed  MS. 
Bt  WILLIAM  WALTON,  Esa. 


£>  ynoN: 


^lailizodbvGoOglf 


_  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


TRANSLATOR'S  PREFACE. 


X^HE  acquisition  of  a  new  country  cannot  Mi 
to  excite  a  degree  of  interest  in  the  public 
mind,  and  a  wish  to  be  informed  of  the  various 
aspects  and  relations  under  which  it  may  be 
viewed^  In  accepting  the  protection  of  the 
Ionian  Ishinds,  Great  Britain  has,  besides,  to 
provide  for  the  civil  welfare  of  a  considerable 
and  interesting  portion  of  population,  and  the 
merchant  may  also  look  to  -  an  extension  of 
trade.  To  promote  these  two  objects,  as  well  as 
to  develope  the  political  advantages  to  be  de- 
rived &om  an  establishment  at  the  head  of  the 
Mediterranean,  as  a  means  of  better  preserving 
tbe  general  equilibrium  of  Europe  and  guard- 


J.,r,l,z<»i:,.,G00gIf 


IV  TEAN8LAT0R  6  PBEFACE. 

ing  against  rival  projects,  constitutes  a  leading 
feature  in  the  present  work.  The  country  al- 
luded to  has  already  been  partially  described 
by  others  on  the  score  of  science,  antiquities, 
and  even  mineralogy ;  but  it  has  not  been  con- 
sidered in  a  political,  commercial,  or  mUitary 
point  of  view ;  nor  has  its  ancient  geography 
hitherto  been  correctly  delineated,  from  a  want 
of  knowledge  of  its  present  situation  and  divi- 
sions, owing  to  the  difScuIty  of  access  and.  the 
great  changes  therein  lately  experienced. 

The  position  of  the  Ionian  Islands  will  be 
found  superior,  in  a  variety  of  respects,  to  that 
of  Malta  i  and  of  these  its  contiguity  and  re- 
lations wtt^  ancient  Greece  is  not  one  of  the 
least  interesting.  It  is  impossible  to  preclude 
feelings  of  regard  for  our  masters  in  the  arts 
and  sciences,  or  to  be  indifferent  when  we  be- 
hold the  present  situation  of  a  people  with 
whose  former  exploits  we  are  familiar.    This 


j,=,i,z<,d.vGoogk' 


TRANSLATORS   PREFACE.  V 

great  contrast  can  only  result  from  the  fide* 
hty  of  the  modem  picture.  In  the  present  un- 
dertaking the  department  of  biography  wOl  also 
receive  a  valuable  acquisition  in  the  Memoirs 
of  Ali  Pacha,  one  of  the  most  extraordinary 
men  of  his  age,  whose  feats  and  elevation  have 
already  furnished  subject  to  song  and  romance, 
but  whose  real  life,  character,'  and  means  of 
aggrandisement,  were  never  before  known  from 
ao  authentic  source. 

The  relations  of  the  French,  as  well  as  their 
means  of  access  to  Greece  and  the  neighbour- 
ing islands,  have  certainly  been  more  frequent 
and  propitious  to  research  than  those  of  any 
other  nation ;  whence  it  may  be  expected  that 
the  result  of  a  large  portion  of  their  official  and 
inedited .  information  will  meet  with  a  £ivoura- 
ble  reception  in  an  English  dress,  and  unmixed 
with  personal  narrative.  The  general  situation 
'  of  the  Ottoman 'empire  in  Europe,  since  the 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


n  TBAHSt.ATete.*S  FBSVACI. 

period  when,  the  conquests  of  the  Osinti^ 
having  ceased,  their  dominion  in  some  measnre 
became  passive,  is  but  partially  knovn.  The 
nature  of  the  views  entertained  by  the  powers 
bordering  on  Turkey,  as  well  as  their  mutual 
rivalship,  does  not  even  allow  of  that  fiUladoas 
publici^,  usually  decorated  with  the  t^e  ~  of 
Hani&ato,  which,  if  it  does  not  ccmvey  die 
real  mjotives  of  a  war,  at  least  enables  the  public 
to  trace  the  projects  of  the  aggressor.  What- 
ever the  diplomatic  records  of  this  country  may 
possess,  the  public  hitherto  has  nothing  that 
exhibits  the  extensive  plans  of  invasion  and  dis* 
memberment  firamedl  against  the  Empire  of  the 
Crescent.  This  important  matter  has  been  car- 
ried on  in  silence  and  under  cabinet-secrecy. 
Refined  address,  as  well  as  de^  and  extensive 
machinations,  had  prepared  the  &U  of  the  Ot- 
toman power,  and  secured  ihe  interest  of 
him  by  whose  hand  the  revolution  was  to  bt 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


TBAMUjkTOit's  PBKFACl.  VU 

fast  agisted ;  and  this  event,  very  near  thirty 
yeU9  ago,  would  have  plunged  the  rest  of 
Surope  IB  an  agtonishment  so  much  the  greater, 
because  no  apparent  ^mptoms  had  previously 
aonounced  its  approach.  The  elements  thca 
prepared  still  exist  in  the  same  hands ;  they  can 
even  be  yet  wielded  with  a  douUe  fiirce ;  and 
though  ambition  has  too  long  been  the  order  of 
the  day,  it  has  possiUy  only  changed  scenes  by 
the  Iate«ocurrences  in  France. 

l^e  revolutions  which  for  the  last  twen^-<ive 
years  have  shaken  the  states  of  Europe  had  left 
to  Turkey  a  respite  of  peace,  and  this  she  might 
have  improved  in  seouriug  the  means  of  de- 
ftnc^  if  her  internal  constitution  had  not 
been  un&vourable.  Whilst  all  the  surrounding 
powers  have  gained  strength,  moral  as  well  as 
pl^sical,  this  empire  alone  now  evinces  symp- 
toms of  decrepitude ;  and  it  is  tmly  in  foreign  aid 
that  a  sustaining  arm  can  be  found.     If  any 

DiailizodbvGoOglc 


TUl  TEANffiLATOR'S   PBEFACS. 

contineotal  combination  does  or  cap  exiatagainst 
the  commerce  of  England^*  Turkey  may  be  the 
theatre  in  which  it  is  first  displayed-  If  it 
accords  with  the  interests. of  England  to  sustain 
the  Ottoman  throne,  she  has  the  most  power- 
ful bulwark  in  the  possession  of  tiie  loiiian 
Islands,  which  either  in'the  hands  of  Russia  or 
Austria  must  evidently  promote  its  &11.  One 
of  the  chief  objects  of .  the  present  work  is, 
therefore^  to  evince  that  their  occupation  by 
British  troops  not  only  promotes  the  salvation 
of  Turkey  as  an  ally,  but  also  tends  effectually 
to  consolidate  the  government  and  independ- 
ence of  the  Septinsulars,  whose  fote  during  the 
last  periods  of  their  history  has  been  pecu- 
liarly hard. 

In  the  geographical  nomenclature  of  this 
work  the  Turkish  and  Greek  orttiograpby  has 
been  preferred,  except  in  a  veiy  small  numbec 
of  cases,  in  which  goieral  usage  has  too  power* 

4 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


THAyBLATOR*a   FBKFACE.  ix 

iully  prevailed.  It  has  been  considered  usefol 
to  correct  the  defective  orthography  found  in 
almost  all  modem  maps  and  descriptions,  by 
substituting  one  that  may  serve  in  the  country 
itself;  and  this  reform  has  been  deemed  the 
more  essential,  because  the  same  method  has 
also  been  followed  in  all  the  maps  and  works 
published  of  late  years  in  France,  Italy,  and 
Germany.  With  regard  to  the  translation,  it 
can  boast  of  nothing  but  fiddity ;  a  few  occa- 
sional notes  have  been  added,  designated  in  the 
usual  manner,  and  as  they  are  more  explanatory 
than  illustrative,  it  is  hoped  they  will  prove  ac- 
ceptable. 


London, 
Mai/ Sl,l816. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CONTENTS. 


INTRODUCTION 1 

CHAPTER  L 
Situation  of  the  Ottoman  Empire  previous  to  the  French* 
Revolution. — Projects  and  Conduct  of  Ruasia  «nd  ' 
Aiutria.— The  French  Revolution  hss  changed  the  Si- 
tuation of  the  Ottoman  Empire. — ^Position  of  Turkey 
from  1807  to  1818.— The  Occupation  of  the  lontao 
Islands  favourable  to  her IS 

CHAPTER  n. 

Governmental  Syston  of  the  Venetian  Senate.— Efiecta 
of  this  System  on  the  Ionian  Islaoda. — l^uatioa  of      ' 
these  Islands  fmn  1800  to  1812 49 

CHAPTER  III. 
Relations  of  the  Ionian  Islands  with  the  neighbouring 
Continent  when  under  the  Venetians— Obstacles  op- 
posed thereto  by  All  Pacha. — Policy  of  the  Venetians 
towards  him.— Advantages  they  derived  from  the 
Towns  of  the  Greek  Continent.— Influence  of  tliera 
Towns  on  the  Defence  of  the  Ionian  blands.— Faults 
committed  by  Russia  tn  ceding  four  of  these  Towns  to 
Turkey .' , 73 


■ftailizodbyGoOgle 


xii  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Relations  of  the  loBian  Islands  with  the  Continent  after 
the  Fall  of  the  Republic  of  Venice.— Ali  Pacha  still 
restraioB  these  Relations. — ^War  with  Russia  enables 
lum  (o  tender  them  nearlynuU.— France  would  have 
been  able  to  re-establish  them  in  180? 93 

CHAPTER  V. 
Ge(^rq>hieal  Description  of  the  States  of  Ali  Pacha. — 
Origin  of  the  Albanians. — Sandgiaks  of  Delnno  and 
Arlona.— Berat  and  ATlona. — Chimsra. — Delrino.^ 
Philates .— Margariti. — Fararoithia. — Soiiliots.^Argi- 
ro-Kastro.— Sandgiok  of  Joannina.— Kliseoura. — fre- 
miti.— Zagoria.^Liapis.— Pichalics  of  Joannipa  and 
of  Arta.— Sandgiaks  of  Ochrida  and  Ksf>udan-Pacha. 
Uonaatir ..— Kastoria. — Gremo  .^SarigoL— Servitza.^ 
Sandgiak  of  Trikala. — ^Larissa.— Hatamona.— Alas- 
sona.— Pharsalia. — Volo, — Zeitoun.— Modunish , , . . .   107 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Description  of  Ali  Pacha's  Donuoions  continued.— Sand- 
giaks of  Earli-Ili  and  Lepanto. — Acamonia. — Sandgiak 
of  Egribos. — Delphos. — Thebes. — Flatea. — Athens. — 
Sandgiak  of  Morea. — Corinth. — PaCiiu. — Gastuni.— 
Elis. — Olympia. — Tripolitza. — Argos. — Napoli  dl  Ro- 
mania.—Kapoli  di  Malvasia, — Mistra. — Koron.. — Ar- 
cadia.    160 

CHAPTER  VII. 
Oiigiji  of  Ali  Pacha^— Character  of  his  Mother.— His 
Education.~-Fir8t  Evente  of  his  Life. — An  extraordi- 
nary Occiurence  places  him  in  the  Road  to  Foituae, 


DiailizodbvGoOglc 


CONTENTS.  xtii 

—He  beconei  Chief  of  Tepdenl.— DeMh  of  hk  Bro- 
ther.— He  becomes  a  Robber. — He  obtains  the  Pro- 
tection of  Kourd  Facha,  marriea,  and  hia  Fortune 
commences,— Serves  in  the  Army  of  the  Grand  Vizir; 
enters  into  Relations  with  Russia ;  obtaias  the  Pach^' 
lie  of  Trikala ;  seizes  on  Joanoina ;  becomes  a  Der- 
vend^'Pacha ;  negotiates  with  France ;  extends  hit 
Conquests ;  enters  into  Correspondence  with  Buona- 
parte; breaks  with  France;  seizes  on  the  Venetian 
Towns,  and  iails  before  Corfii ;  is  made  Roumeli-Va- 
lachl;  his  Exactions;  treats  with  France;  makes 
War  on  Russia ;  sends  an  Agent  to  Napoleon ;  foils 
in  bis  Views  at  Tilsit ;  and  addresses  himself  ta  En- 
gland   21S 

CHAPTER  VIU. 
Character  of  Ali  Pacha. — His  cruel  Pdicy. — His  Qua- 
lities as  a  Head  of  GoTemmebt.— His  Administra- 
tion.—His  Affectation  in  appearing  to  patronise  Ae 
Greeks.— His  Divan.— Ministers.— Interior  and  ex- 
ternal Police.— Palaces. — Revenue  and  Riches.^Mi- 
litary  Establishment.  —  Population. —  His  Political 
Views  on  the  Ionian  Islands.— Character  of  his 
CUIdien 257 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Interior  Situation  of  the  Dominions  of  Ali  Pacha.— 
History  of  the  SouUots.— The  Chimariots. — Albanian 
Dress  and  Soldiers.— Manners  and  Character  of  the 
AlbanianB.  —  Tchinguenes,  or  Gipsies.  —  Albanian 
Langu^e.  —  Climate. — Productions.— -Commerce. — 
Character  and  Manners  of  the  Epirota  and  Conti- 
nental Greeks. — State  of   the  ^orea. — Character 


j,=,i,z<,d.vGoogIf 


xnr  CONTENTS. 

Pige 
and  Monen  of  iti  InhabiUnta.— Misfbrtanei  thU 
Catatry  experienced  in  1770. — I^rodactioiM  and  Com- 
merce  ji 903 

CHAPTER  X. 

Beads  from  Bucintrd  to  Berat  and  to  Joannina. — From 
Eeracha,  TaTga,  and  Preveaa  to  Joannina. — From 
tbe  latter  to  Berat  and  Grevna. — From  the  lat^r  to 
Monastir,— From  Bent  to  Eaatoria.— From  Grema 
to  Salonica.— From  Joannina  to  Lari«sa,  and  tbeace 
to  Grevna,  Sslouica,  Volo,  Zeitoun,  and  Tbebes.^ 
From  Arts  to  Lepanto  and  Thebes.— From  the  latter 
to  Corinth.— From  Patraa  to  Corinth,  and  Tripolitza. 
—From  Patras  to  Tripolitza,  through  Karitent,^Froin 
Patras  to  Mistra,  Napoli  di  Malvaaia,  and  Koron. — 
From  the  Utter  to  Tripolitza  and  Patraa,  thm^h 
Kariteni.— From  Napoli  di  Romania  to  Corinth,  and 
from  Tripolitsa  to  Cormth  and  Mistra.— Mode  of  Tra- 
velling.    349 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Description  of  the  Ionian  Islands.— Corfu.— Pazti.^ 
St.  Maura, — ThiakL — Cephalonia. — Zante. — Cer^ 
—Observations  on  the  Position  of  four  of  the  abore 
Islands 38i 

CHAPTER  XII. 
Manners  and  Character  of  the  Ion  ians.— Influence  of 
the  Political  Vicissitudes  which  the  Ionian  Islands 
have  experienced,  on  the  Education  of  the  Inhabitants 
■s  well  as  the  Public  Mind. — Commerce  of  Corfu  and 
Cephalonia 409 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


CHAPTER  Xnj. 

Militaiy  Sketch  of  the  Frontien  of  Turkey.— Reca^- 
tulAtion  of  the  Pelitical  Views  of  the  neighbouring 
Powers  on  thsi  Country. — Plan  of  Operationa  which 
each  one  of  them  may  follow.— Political  and  MHitaiy 
Probabilities  in  their  Favour.— Mean<  of  Defence 
pOBEessed  by  Turkey. — Outline  of  the  Campaigu  of 
the  Romans  against  the  Macedonians  in  Albania,  the 
Epirus,  and  Thesialy^— Military  Consequences  which 
the  Outline  presents 444 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


THE 

IONIAN  ISLANDS. 

INTRODUCTION. 

A  SOLEMN  Treaty  has  just  acknowledged 
and  guaranteed  the  independence  of  the  Seven 
Islands,  under  the  protection  of  Great  Sritain. 
Since  the  period  when  Europe  beheld  the  tot< 
tering  edifice  of  Venetian  power  crumble  into 
dust,  this  13  the  third  time  that  a  transaction, 
signed  by  the  High  Powers,  secures  to  the  Ionian 
Islands  their  liberty  and  a  rank  among  the  States 
of  Europe.  By  a  happy  combination  of  circum- 
stances, the  French  revolution^  spreading  like 
a  torrmt  over  Italy,  whose  entire  dominations 
were  thereby  swallowed  up,  had  carried  even  as 
£tr  as  Ionia  the  sparks  which,  afterwards,  served 
to  revive  sentiments  time  had  been  unable  to 
destroy  in  the  hearts  of  "the  Greeks.  Without 
bringing  in  its  train  the  evils  which  an  exagge- 
ration of  democratical  ideas  and  the  ignorance 
of  the  true  principles  of  civil  liberly  have  always 
entailed  on  the  first  steps  of  every  nation  aiming 


_  ,Nz<,i:,.,  Google 


2  THE   IONIAN   IBLANDa. 

at  a  liberal  governmeDt,  the  revolution  which 
placed  the  Ionian  Islandi  under  the  control  of 
France  recalled  to  the  inhabitants  the  name  of 
their  country,  which  the  Venetians  in  vain  had 
endeavoured  to  ffbliteratefrffm  their  mindi.  The 
very  form  of  government  which  the  French  re- 
public had  introduced  into  conquered  countries 
caused  the.  interior  administration  to  pfiss  into 
the  hands  of  wuivc-boni  n^;islntes ;  and  the 
Ionian  people  reconquered  their  language  and 
their  religion,  and  heard  their  name  pronounced 
in  public  acts.  Abuses,  undoubted^,  occurred 
in  the  exercise  of  power  on  the  part  of  French 
superior  agents,  and  the  military  burdens  nmst 
have  pressed  heavify  on  a  country,  whose  chief 
resources  consist  in  the  prosecution  of  a  com- 
merce which  then  no  longer  existed.  Yet  these 
passing  ev4l3  were  fbrgottdn  by  the  mass  of  the 
Ionian  nation,  just  emerghig  from  a  hard  and 
iJisgracefUl  slavery;  and  shortly,  among  the 
great  majority  of  the  citizens  there  remained  no 
other  than  the  sentiment  of  civil  liberty  they 
enjoyed  and  the  regeneration  of  their  country, 
so  Ipng  lorded  over  by  the  dtcrepid  lion  of  St; 
Marc. 

It  is  difficult  to  say  what  would  have  been 
the  fete  of  the  Ionian  Islands,  ^without  the  ca- 
tastrophe which  snatched  them  firom  the  power 
of  France.    Ttie  circumstance,  however,  maybe 


_,.,l,z<,i:,.,G00gIf 


'  jstitotjvcnott*  ^ 

cedsidtff^d  estretnel/  ibriwntc,  wfaiefa  in^ted 
twoiiral  poffefs,  }eialoui  of  each  other,  to  effect 
tfieir  oenqueit.  If  either  of  the  fwo  had  alode 
beim  atic  te  atteftipt  the  enterprise,  their  inde< 
peodenoe  was  at  ah  end :  united  to  the  doini-> 
Bitms  of  th^  conqueror*  by  newrerolutions  they 
iQ%ht  poBsihIy  bare  changed  their  master,  but 
the  idea  of  their  polHieol  existence  irould  have 
disappeared  ihun  the  memory  df  nlab,  and  beoi 
Uotted  out  &om  the  dipkiinatio  Archives.  Russia 
and  Torbey,  unwilling  to  otiDsent  iticiprocaliy 
to  cede  tdeidi  other  this  interesting  cohquest, 
dcHvered  up  the  Ionian  Islands  to  themselves,, 
reseiiiag  only  the  rights  of  a  oonmon  protM- 
iion.  We  ibeiU  bereiitm,  have  occasion  to  sbov 
what  were!  the  effects  of  this  double  protectfon, 
and  the  cmises  which,  shortly  aftettrards,  placed 
it  in  tbtt  batfds  ef  Aussiit  akms.  The  iffitaedlale 
•vDsc^uenoe  of  this  iihgaktt  trAtiittction,  it}Adk 
gmv6  i^e  to  Ibo  creation  of  a  tepuUie  bf  two 
v£  tht  toost  despotic  states  of  Europe,  whlMt, 
at  the  same  time,  the  French  repdblic  w«S  erect- 
ing m  kingdom/  was  Ui  the  advaUti^  of  the 
hrmm  Isknda.  They  ware  added  ttf  the  tatA- 
■iogue  of  the  States  of  ^rope,  their  Sig  waved 
OR  lite  OoeaB,  and  ^wir  Utmi  CXMhposed  of  seveh 

»  Tbia  Wirin  fo  Ae  onttKoi  of  tb*  kbiidolkt  of  EMrt^  Id 
1802.— Ta. 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


,4  THE  IONIAN  ISlAWDa. 

arrows  bound  together,  ahnounoed  that  a  new 
and  Amited  state  existed  in  the  Mediterranean. 

The  result  of  the  disastrous  war  waged  1^ 
Prussia  and  Russia  against  the  French  empire, 
in  1807,  obliged  the  Seven  Islands  again  to  come 
under  the  dominion  of  the  latter ;  but  the  most 
important  step  towards  their  independence  had 
already  been  taken,  and  it  was,  a  second  time, 
guaranteed  to  them,  by  a  new  treaty.  What- 
ever, at  that  time,  may  have  been  the  views 
of  Napoleon  on  the  Grecian  continent;  whe- 
ther it  was,  that, he  was  contented,  for  the  pre- 
sent, with  having  attained  a  most  important 
object,  in  depriving  the  Russians  of  an  establish- 
mentin  the  Mediterranean,  for  which  they  had 
long  «ighed,  or  whether  he  judged  it  necessary 
to  temporize  with  the  Ottoman  Porte,  whom 
the  absolute  possession  of  these  islands  would 
have  too  greatly  alarmed,  certain  it  is,  he  was 
satisfied  with  ihc  title  of  protector,  and  it  was 
oD  this  footing  that  one  of  his  deputies  took  pos- 
session. 

The  events  of  1 8 14  gave  rise  to  a  new  poU- 
.  tical  revolution  in  the  affiiirs  of  Eurt^,  the  im- 
mediate effect  of  which  was  the  dismember- 
.  ment  of  the  empire  of  Napoleon ;  and  among 
the  consequences  thence  resulting,  was  the  se- 
par^on  .of  the  Ionian  Islands  from  the  influ- 
ence of  the  French  government.    It  was  again. 


_,.,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


INTRODUCTXON.  5 

at  this  period,  a  fortunate  circumstance  for  these 
islands,  that  the  naval  forces  of  Great  Ifoitain 
were  so  near  at  hand.  The  weakness  of  the 
French  government,  and  their  distance  from 
the  general  political  interests  oi  Europe,  would 
have  prevented  France  from  promoting  the 
wel&re  of  so  detached  a  state,  even  by  giving 
it  up 't  and  the  Seven  Islands  might  have  been 
exposed  to  the  danger  «f  being  delivered  up  to 
themselves,  by  the  retreat  of  the  French  troc^,. 
and  of,  perhaps,  falling  under  the  power  of  the 
ambitious  Ali  Pacha,  before  they  could  receive 
succours  from  any  of  the  European  powers. 
Now,  however,  their  destinies  are  secured,  and 
their  independence  acknowledged  and. entered 
among  the  component  parts  of  the  £ur(^>ean 
edifice.  In  guaranteeing  to  tHem  a  protection 
so  essentially  necessaiy  in  their  poh'tical  in&ncy, 
and  in  the  state  of  relative  weakness  under 
which  they  stand  with  regard  to  their  neigh- 
bours, the  foundations  of  their  future  prosperity 
and  h^^iness  have  be6n  laid.     ^ 

An  xadan  of  ftvourable  circumstances,  and  a 
tendency  uniform  in  itself,  bear  the  Septinsulara 
on  towards  a  total  resurrection  from  that  poli- 
tical death  with  which,  for  many  ages,  they 
bad  been  struck.  In  the  midst  of  the  storms 
and  r^olutioDs  which  have  destroyed  or  crested 


DiailizodbvGoOglc 


Q  THE  IftMUir  INUASes, 

a^akw  aU,  (be  ftbove  people  h«ve  bew  l&^  fW, 
1^  a  slow  but  eoirtitjue4  progressiva  (ow^jt 
their  )iH}iepeflde»pe  «od  proeperity.  This  ei(- 
tf4ordin:iFy  pheaoin«noiii  theu^  perhftps,  m 
some  roefl&wfe,  resttlting  from  the  progresa  of 
i^oral  light  »Bd  koowktlge,  whif^  h^ve  fi^tendotl 
their  sfhsce.  tbrougbpwt  aU  Kurop?,  mvs^*  d^k. 
o^ayxily,  attract  the  aittentjon  of  thf  ptlilan*, 
t^^c  oluervcr,  and  eseite  « lively  int^i^e&t  in 
wi  eBligbtested  pubtio.  Att  ipl^^kaoa  of  r^ad^^ 
ffttst  sBlunUly  be  aotusted  by  »  wi»li  t«  l»s80«; 
and  ototempUte  s  people  wbih  mp^IlMt  by  Al 
(Hmbioation  of  fi>rtwtt«u  evwUinto  th«  c»r«fsr 
pf  I&erty  ud  iadeprad^we,  now  find  tMii- 
selYca  io  the  di»ctioct  of  «  natioe  eApablfi  e£ 
jgm^i^  fui<i  sA^imn^  its  stops*  in  tbe  raojt  aa4 
peurae  to  which  it  has  beeq  oaUed. 

Sudi  we  the  motives  vhich  have  uifiu«De«d 
9Dd  determined  t&e  pubticatioB  of  the  pnaent 
nfemotf,  1^  oemteatB  are  mtt  wiy  the  fruit  o{ 
the  observations  the  Author  haa  been  eble  ta 
wake  OB  the  apat,  duiwg  the  peviod  of  na  in- 
tece^qg  passion  *  h?  was,  ceUcd  upon  to  ^JSi^ 

*  At  the  conjWEneenieBt  of  1807,  tMe  Author  wa*  en* 
tniBted  with  ^  political  mlEsioq  iie«r  the  Beys  of  Efx^^q^ 
wina,  the  Tacha  of  Scutari,  that  of  Berat,  and  particularly 
yizir  All  Pacbs  oC  .IfMtiBina.    DurtPg  ^  irhcAo  of  the  f^hof  e 


_  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google  ■ 


WXKQDirCTION.  3 

but,  aim,  cq^utUtttc  th«  rwultof  a  varietjr  of 
awtbeotip  tad  iaedited  maieriab,  furnuheit  by 
perwofi  in  office)  of  which  he  hai  been  able  to 
obtain  communication  or  copieaj  materials  bo 
isacb  the  more  interestmg,  because  they  weie 
pun^sely  drawn  up  ta  deiGribe  the  situation 
and  procaote  the  wd&re  of  the  people  to  whom 
tbe^  aUudei-  U  would,  undoubtedly^  be  posr 
sibW  to  puhUsb  sojuethiqg.  more  complete;  it 
were  vain  pride  to  deny  it)  but  no  one  oan 
take  Srom-  the  Autbor  the  merit  of  his  inten- 
tiotMf  which  twe  no  other  than  to  reader  hia 
Iidwurs  use&d  to  the  public.  May  the  perusal 
pf  his  work  excite,  in  tfae  hearts  of  his  readers 
tbe  same  interest  he  himself  feek  for  the  dc^ 
seeodvits  of  wir  masters  in  the  arts  and  scir 
.enoes,  and  ipay  it  awaken  feelings  of  regard 
towards  a  country  where  a  wise^  enlightened, 
and  protecting  government  wiil  so  eaaily  find 
the  means  of  combining  its  own  personal  ad- 
yaotages  with  the  |^d  of  humanity,  and  the 
glory  of  founding  and  securing  the  prosperity 
of  a  people  formed  to  appreciate  so  great  a 
benefit. 

jear,  he  resided  in  the  statei  of  Ali  Pacha  and  at  Corfu, 
and  from  that  period  has  had  frequent  meaos  of  being  fully 
dcijiUunted  with  the  alCurs  af  that  country.  In  1807,  he  also 
■firected  the  operationi  ot  the  siege  of  St,  Madra  and  tlie  ^ 
fince  of  r!r«iMa.— Tf. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


8  THB   IONIAN  ISLAWDS. 

The  memoir  now  offered  to  the  public  jmn- 

dpkl]y  contains  and  displays  six  particular  sub- 
jects, which  may  be  classed  under  the  follown 
ing  heads,  viz.— 

1st.  The  general  situation  of  Turkey  in  Eu- 
rope, at  the  issue  of  the  revolutions  of  the  latta 
continent,  together  with  the  real  advantages 
she  ought  to  derive,  with  regard  to  her  political 
existence,  from  the  occupation  of  the  Ionian 
Islands  by  Great  Britain. 

2d.  The  political  state  of  the  Ionian  Islands  ' 
under  the  Venetians ;  the  influence  of  the  vi- 
cissitudes they  havt)  experienced  on  the  public 
mind  of  the  Septinsulars,  and  the  existing  ne- 
cessity they  are  under  of  obtaining  an  enlight- 
ened and  protecting  government,  in  order  to 
direct  and  fix  the  course  of  their  interior  admi- 
nistration. 

3d.  The  relations  of  the  Ionian  Islands  with 
the  continent  of  Greece;  the  advantages  France 
and  Russia  thence  derived  during  their  posses- 
sion of  these  islands,  and  the  means  of  extend- 
ing and  improving  these  relations. 

4th.  The  geographical  and  statistical  descrip- 
tion of  the  Seven  Islands,  and  of  the  neigh- 
bouring continent  of  Greece,  in  conformity  tQ 
ancient  and  modern  geography.  Tfic  presei^t 
situation  of  the  Epirus  and  South  Albania, 
under  the  famous  AH  Tacha  ^  his  hutory,  and 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


DTTSODUCTION.  9^ 

the  manner  in  which  he  has  formed  his  states } 
his  political  position,  and  views  on  the  Ionian 
Islands. 

Jtb.  A  description  of  the  manners,  hahits, 
and  customs  of  the  Septinsulars,  and  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  neighboiuing  continent  qf 
Greece.  A  sketch  of  the  active  and  passive 
trade,  and  the  land  communications  of  Corfu 
with  European  Turkey,  together  with  their 
application,  as  well  to  the  commerce  now  car- 
ried on,  as  that  which  might  still  be  called 
forth. 

6th.  The  military  situation  of  Turkey  in  Eu- 
rope, with  a  view  to  the  projects  of  invasion  by    , 
her  neigfaboura ;  means  of  attack,  and  probabi- 
lities of  defence. 

In  the  construction:  of  his  work,  the  Author 
has  by  no  means  rigidly,  iu^fined  himself  to 
the  order  and  classification  just  pointed  out. 
The  course  of  events  he  has  been  obliged  to 
follow,  the  connection  of  the  direct  bonds  4^ 
one  object  with  another  among  those  he  has 
treated,  together  with  the  accessary  points  be 
has  had  to  present,  as  proo&  or  elucidations  o£ 
his  remarks,  would  otherwise  have  produced 
transitions  more  inconvenient  to  tl^e  reader  than 
useful  to  his  object.  The  purport  aiid  result 
of  the  thirteen  chapters  constitutmg  this  me- 


DiailizodbvGoOglc 


'10  THE  UmiAK  ISLANDS. 

jnoir,  wilt  present  to  the  reader  the  aggtcgate 
pf  the  pQJnta  before  laid  down  j  and  the  table  of 
contents,  by  marking  the  place  of  each  parti? 
cular&ct  and  object,  will  make  up  for  the  want 
of  a  more  formal  claasificati<ni. 

The  work  is  accompanied  by  a  detailed  m^, 
toinprisiDg  the  Seven  Islands,  South  Albania, 
part  of  Macedonia,  the  Epirua,  Theaialy,-Livir 
dia,  and  the  Morea-  This  map  has  been  coo- 
itructed  according  to  the  observations  of  the 
Author  on  the  ^t,  as  well  as  in  conformity  to 
the  memoirs  and  notes  of  Monsieur  Pouquevills^ 
French  Consul  at  Joannhia ;  the  researches  of 
Monsieur  Barbier  Dubocage,  aided  by  astro- 
nomieal  observations,  fixed  courses,  and  mi- 
thentic  itineraries;  nor  does  the  Author  hesitate 
to  pledge  that  his  mi^  is  absolutely  new,  and 
filled  with  details  which  have  not  hitherto  met 
the  public  eye. 

As,  however,  in  a  publicatton  of  this  nature, 
it  is  not  possible  to  present  a  m^  suffidoitly 
large  to  satisfy  any  other  than  the  common  pur- 
poses of  reading,  Mr.  John  Cary,  of  the  Strand, 
is  preparing  for  publication,  in  four  sheets, 
the  Author's  original  map  of  Ancient  and  Mo- 
dern Greece ;  embracing  the  United.  Imian  Is> 
lands,  the  territories  of  AJt  Pacha,  and  the 
Aforea>  epthibitiog  their  physical  and  political 


^lailizodbyGoOgle 


INTBODUCTION.  1 1 

divisions,  roads,  the  distances  from  town  to 
town,  principal  villages,  with  their  modern  and 
ancient  names,  chains  of  hills,  rivers,  &c.  which 
will  completely  fill  up  the  void  the  public  has 
so  long  had  to  lament  on  this  interesting  portion 
of  the  globe,  and  not  only  highly  illustrate  the 
present  memoir,  but  also  serve  as  a  guide  to  all 
other,  ancient  as  well  aa  modern,  works  written 
OQ  the  subject. 


DiailizodbjGoOglf 


Ji.iliz,,!:,.,  Google 


CHAPTER  I. 

Situation  of  the  Ottoman  Empire  previous  to 
the  French  ReDolution.-^Projectt  and  Con- 
duct of  Russia  and  Austria.— The  French 
Revolution  has  changed  the  Situation  of  the 
Ottoman  Empire. — Portion  of  Turkey  from 
1807  *o  1812. — The  Occupation  of  the  Ionian 
Islands  faoourahle  to  her. 

Amidst  the  momentous  revolutions  which 
have,  more  or  less,  rent  the  various  States  of 
Europe,  and  broken  down  the  political  balance, 

'  one  only  has  been  able  to  preserve  itself  un- 
touched, and  remain  a  quiet  spectator  of  th* 
phases  which  have  humbled  or  raised  the  others, 
tending  to  exhaust  them  all.  Such  has  been 
the  fortune  of  the  Ottoman  Empire.    This  ex- 

.  position  alone  would  suffice  for  the  praises  of 
its  government,  if  so  happy  an  exception  had, 
or  could  have  been,  the  result  of  a  wise  and  en- 
lightened conduct  in  times  of  danger  and  dif- 
ficulty. It  is,  however,  no  other  than  the  con- 
sequence of  the  inertness  of  a  colossal  power, 
which  has  no  other  weight  in  the  political  ba- 
lance than  that  of  its  physical  mass,  rendered 


^laiiizodbvGoogle' 


14  THE    IONIAN   ISLANDS.  [cBAP.  I^ 

foreign  to  the  interests  of  its  neij^bours,  and 
to  all  combined  and  regular  relations  therewith, 
by  nation&I  ignorance  and  a  diversity  of  reli- 
gion. Turkey  hu  thus  been  able  to  keep  aloof 
from  the  vortex  and  point  of  contact  with  the 
other -contending  nations..  The  oi^y  reasoqaUe 
ctmsequence  to  be  drawn  from  this  sin|$ular  phe- 
nomeooo  isi  that  the  existence  and  result  of  the 
revolutions  of  Europe  have  served  to  piling 
the  duratitw  of  an  enervated  empire^  and  which, 
simikr  to  those  ancient  monuments  odginaliy 
placed  on  solid  foundations^  still  sustains  itself 
on  pilasters  half  mouldered  away  through  the 
lapte  (^  time. 

,  Torfeey  msy^  cMieequently,  now  iq>08e  tran- 
quil within  the  linuts  asugncd  to  her  by  the  lait 
peace,  *  whick  has  only  depnv<d  bei  of  &  di** 

*  By  ttiis  ji^Bca,  sigaeA  hetweea  Kaasis  sad  tittiey,  ia 
1&I2,  ihe  6rse  tt/Himd  p«We4tiM  «f  B«Nul6itf,  ^  Hit  to 
Vrath,  and  W  Ae  DMuto.  Th*  M>*ii9  ^Mc»  vf  KiRs 
and  b«»'l  aW  fell  iota  bw  potrer.  By  tha  poMeaioa  sf 
Kilia,  the  Ruwians  becave  iiiut«TH  of  }he  Biouth»  sf  the 
Danube,  and  they  are  enablocf  to. prevent  tbe  commerce 
of  ttie  Blacl  Sea,  cEirriect  on  by  the  ttbore'  rlrer.  Behtg  ' 
Orei^  iff  pflssegaton  df  the  CnmeB,  and  tfT  ItM  fUrt  6f 
OAesM,  tlity  wwO  m  n*'  want  of  that  tf  Kilia  ftr  conuar- 
cial  pvrpoHB}  but  tka  inten-uption  of  the  trade  of  the  Bla^ 
Sea,  by  tbc  Danube,  will  become  extremely  injurious  to  Aoi' 
Iria,  Ifungary,  anJ  tlie  interior  provinces  of  Turkey,  auch 
aa  Bosnia  and  Servia.  Thi»  is  tfliat  fhe  wxOtot  baa  itrVemtsd 
to  coWTOy.    T*. 


3la,l,;t!dbvG00glC 


GHAT  .1.3  TKB  laXIAH  laLANBS.  15 

trict  of  small  extent,  more  vscAiI  to  tfae  other 
nations  <^  Europe  than  it  was  to  hmeli^  or  tfaaa 
it  ^1  be  to  the  Ruwian  goTennnent.  The  atn- 
tntitm  of  Russia  aod  Austria  has  bees  aw^ebed 
hy  other  alimratB,  which  draw  the  attention  of 
fhese  govemifteitts  towards  the  west  and  south. 
Poland,  Germany »  and  Italy  present  too  vast  a 
field  open  to  aystevoatk  cooceptioos  and  hostile 
enoroacbments,  not  to  absorb^  ibr  a  loi^  period 
of  time,  the  thought  of  the  chieft  Arming  the 
centinental  league.  The  power  whidi,  in  the 
west  of  £uvope,  constituted  a  counterpoise  useful 
to  the  preservation  of  Tui4cey>  and  still  more  so 
to  stop  the  ambitions  projects  oi  Rassia,  has 
now  become  the  ol^eet  of  a  construnt  extend- 
ing &om  the  east  to  the  west  c£  our  continent ; 
and  this  nevement,  coalrarf  to  that  which 
might  have  been  observed  for  more  than  twentf 
years  past,  removes  stiU  further  irom  Tui^ccy 
the  idea  of  all  contiaental  danger. 

Few  years  previous  to  the  French  revolution, 
the  situation  of  the  Ottoman  Empire  was  quite 
fiifferent,  and  notbiog  more  has  fte^ently  been 
AvBting  to  Ids  total  destruction  than  the  umon 
and  concert  of  ^  dia  two  neighbouring  powers. 
-The  declwe  of  the  French  momrcl^,  the  first 
i^na^Umii  'ef  which  had  appeared  in  the  dis- 
ostroas  war  of  17581,  hadtakcaftom  the  CtHjrtof 
-Var8«i^a  the  gteiitwt  part  of  its  influence  in. 


Ji.iliz,,!:,.,  Google 


16  f^B  IONIAN  ISLANDS^  [CUAP.I. 

the  afi^rs  of  the  east  of  Europe.  The  efforts 
expended  by  France  on  the  ruinous  war  of 
America,  and  the  weakness  and  frequent  revo- 
lutions  of  her  ministries,  entirely  deprived  her 
of  the  action  and  credit  which  her  position  and 
Teal  forces  apparently  had  assigned  to  her  in  the 
political  scale  of  Europe.  The  partition  of  Po^ 
land  was  effected  without  any  opposition  being 
attempted  on .  her  side,  nor  did  she  obtain  or 
require  a  compensation  due  to  her  for  the  main- 
tenance of  the  general  equilibrium.  This  bar- 
rier, which  separated  Austria  irom  Russia,  and« 
as  it  were,  divided  the  latter  from  the  rest  of  the 
continent,  being  once  overturned,  these  two 
empires  found  themselves  in  immediate  contact. 
Both  governed  by  sovereigns  of  superior  merits 
and  of  ^qualan^iition,  notwithstanding  the  one 
disguised  his  views  under  the  cloak  of  glory,  ' 
and  the  other  of  philanthropy,  it  became  ne- 
cessary for  them  mutually  to  contend,,  and  at- 
tempt the  destruction  of  each  other,  or  else  seek 
in  another,  quarter  a  suitable  field  to  satisfy  their 
prevailing  passions.  The  first  alternative  was 
too  dangerous.  Prussia,  under  the  wise  and 
glorious  reign  of  the  great  Frederic,  had :  ac- 
quired a  real  force,  which  gave  to  her  an.influ- 
ence,  still  more  increased  by  her  vicinity ;  on 
whatever  side  she  turned, .  she  was  sufficient  to 
lower  the  scale. .  France  could  not  be  oppose^ 
5 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


to  h» ;  dre  l^crmuetit  of  the  Utter  alceadjr 
beg«Q  to  ijide  towardt  the  prac^^ice  which  • 
bad  advuDiBtrAtioH  upd  nunierous  abuses  bjid 
prepared,  and  where  it  so<m  afterwards  found 
its  tremendous  destruction.  Obliged,  therefoi^ 
to  respect  each  other  mutually,  the  two  empires, 
as  if  by  one  accord,  directed  their  attention  to- 
wards Turkey.  Their  first  measures  were  not 
<x>ncerted,  but  they  met  in  their  political  at- 
tempts, or  sometimes  guessed  each  others  views, 
in  which  case  policy  obliged  them  to  assume  as 
apparent  union,  less  to  aid  than  to  have  a  plau- 
sible pretext  of  thwarting  each  others  ends.  Jt 
was  thus  that  the  united  attadk  ctf  two  powered 
and  well-governed  emiHres  against  a  tottering 
«md  debilitated  empire  was  seen  to  produce  no- 
thing but  the  ci^re  of  Oczskow  and  Belgrade, 
aoon  afterwards  followed  by  an  extraordinary 
peace. 

Notwithstanding  this  rivality,  marked  by  •■ 
tpparont  harmony,  which  at  that  time  saved 
'][^iri£ey  from  the  inevitable  misfortune  of  fidlisg 
a  prey  to  the  united  efibrts  of  her  nei^bours, 
she  nevertheless  had  dangers  to  run,  so  much 
the  greater,  because  the  means  by  whidi  they 
were  excited  were  the  more  hidden.  Each  of 
the  two  nei^bouring  sovereigns  secretly  Ifr- 
faoured  to  dismount  the  i^ngs  of  ihm  interior 
govemn^i  of  the  Ottotoaa  empire,  to  pnpsre 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


18  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  [CHAP.T. 

its  Christian  subjects  for  a  general  insuirection^ 
and  to  combine  all  the  means  of  being  able  to 
execute  alone,  by  means  of  a  sudden  irruption, 
what  one  neither  could  nor  wished  to  do  in 
concert  with  his  rival.  -  We  will  take  a  rapid 
glance  at  the  means  which  each  respectively 
employed.  This  examination  is  so  much  the 
more  useful,  because  the  elements  of  which  they 
then  availed  themselves  still  exist,  the  tendency 
of  feeling  is  the  same,  and  by  the  same  circum- 
stances can  again  be  called  forth. 

An  inedited  Memoir,  presented  to  the  French  . 
government  in  the  month  of  May,  1783,  attri- 
buted to  Monsieur  Lafitte  Clav6,  furnishes  inte- 
resting details  respecting  the  situation  of  Turkey 
at  that  period,  corresponding  to  that  already 
pointed  out  as  being  the  most  dangerous  to  the 
Ottoman  empire,  and  arising  out  of  a  want  of  cre- 
dit sufficiently  strong  on  the  part  of  France  in  the 
a^rsof  the  east  of  Europe,  so  as  to  enable  her 
to  take  an  active  part  therein.  We  shall  here 
insert  an  extract  from  this  Memoir,  interesting 
in  many  respects,  and  particularly  containing 
facts  very  little  known. 

*'  The   projects   of  the   Emperor  and   the , 
Czarine,*'  says  the  Memoir,  *'  are  now  no  longer  ■ 
one  of  those  events  which  the  most  profound 
policy  can  alone  foresee ;  these  two  powers  no 
longer  dread  the  discovery  of  their  hopes;  they 


SiailizodbvGoOgle 


GHlP.I.'l  THEIOKIAK  ULiSmB*  19 

doinot  cease  to  raise  up  new  subjects  of  discus- 
8ion».  aod  their  projects  of  usicpation  are  su»- 
tained.by  formidable  preparations.  The  Turks 
themselves  see  the  danger  by  which  they  are 
threatened ;  their  terrors  are  as  blind  as  was 
formerly  their  qonfidence  in  the  days  of  suc- 
cess ;  and,  under  a  state  of  absolute  depresoioD* 
thefy  know  npt  the  resources  which  are  still  left 
them.  The  ministers  seek  to  delay  a  rup- 
ture, :  whose  .consequences  make  them  tremble ; 
they  rather .  wish  to  grant  all,  than  to  run '  the 
risks  inseparable  from  a  refusal,  and  by  their 
inexhaustible  weakness  do  nothing  more  than 
encourage  their  enemies  to  new  demands. 
Anarchy,  which  always  walks  by  the  side  of 
despotism,  has  spread  complete  desolation 
throughout  all  the  provinces  of  the  empire:  the 
treasures  of  the  sovereign  have  been  exhausted 
in  the  last  war,  and  his  unlimited  authority  de- 
prives him  of  all  the  resources  which  credit 
offers  to  princes  &ithful  in  complying  with  their 
engagements.  The  navy  destroyed  at  Tchesme  • 
has  been  unable  to  recover  from  its  losses." 

The  violence  also,  of  a  rapid  current,  and  the 
fi^uency  of  the  north  winds,  obstacles  which 

*  The  harbour  of  Tchearae  is  on  the  coast  of  Natolia, 
nearly  oppotate  to  the  bland  of  Scio.  It  waa  here  that  the 
TurldBh  fleet  irns  Huiprized  and  burnt  by  the  Russiaiu,  in, 
l770.-p.Tii. 

C  2 


ioiizodbyGoogle 


M  "xxm  twrujf  Humtt.       [obiv.i. 

nBtar«  hu  vfiited  for  &e  defence  of  die  DHrde- 
ndl«s,  «n  the  coatnxy,  become  tlie  mtv»o£ 
fccilitating  the  pusagc  of  tlie  BoqtborQs,  wfajm 
eoffiing  iron  the  Black  Sea.  The  Bordi  wincb, 
m  48  hours,  bring  vessds  from  the  month  o£tfae 
Beiyst^enes  to  the  entrSBce  of  t^  Bos^hoius, 
where  the  vaters  raah  vf&  great  vioknoe,  and 
ivfeenee  a  ieet,  impelled  b^  the  force  of  lite 
stream,  and  passing  rapidly  under  the  iS-^ 
i«eted  fire  ef  a  fbwmean  casUes,  in  l^ree  hours 
ironld  anciKH-  at  the  fbot  of  the  Sera;^.  Be- 
sides, the  MX  castles  which  defend  the  Bo^henn 
are  no  other  Ihan  oM  aad  mouldenqg  towns, 
flanked  by  unterraced  walls,  which,  notwith- 
standing their  numerous  artillery,  would  be.oa- 
able  to  resist  the  first  carmoB-bdl.  The  castles 
BfsreAto  the  Black  Sea  were  bmlt  by  Banm  de 
Tott)  but,  beyond  doQbt,^acyed  by  tiie  avarice 
aad  prejudice  of  the  Turks,  they  sre  no  oth» 
than  elevated  baHef4e9,  without  any  casemrtea 
to  cover  tbegvriBon,Bnd  of  wfaitA  Ihe  gvtis,  &e 
same  as  the  others,  are  placed  on  beds  of  hdtk. 
instead  of  carriages. 

Such  is  the  state  frf*  that  capital,  ^  the  &te  tit 
which,"  says  the  au^or  of  the  Memoir  already 
quoted,  "  would  /lave  already  heen  decided,  if 
Russia  possessed  on  the  Black  Sea  forces  as  con- 
siderate as  ker  interest*  regairedt  ^^  cwiidboart 
subjects  worthy  of  executing  ker  views."    f^tec 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.   I.]  TBS  KHTUK  HLAKDS.  fll 

thlB  Great,  too  much  borne  tm»,y  by  the  wiab  of 
rauiiig  his  name  in  EuH^ie,  and  too'  much  iiH 
.fluenced  by  the  pr«ites  lavished  upon  hioi,  caat 
his  eyes  towards  the  east,  when  the  time  vm 
gone  fay.  His  attaittoo  to  that  quarter  would, 
aeverthdea,  have  produced  ^«ater  utility  than 
the  ruinoin  foandatioa  of  St.  Fetenbw^*  whilat 
Moscow,  placed  in  die  centre  of  tib«  empirCf 
teemed  peculisriy  fbnned  to  be  the  csfHtid. 
The  nafortunate  capttulation  of  Fnith  fAilagtd 
iam  to  renounce  his  projects,  and  dea&  anr- 
prised  him  befine  he  had  been  able  to  renedy 
this  delay. 

Catherine  IX.  reaamed  the  prqeeta  ot  Feter 
tJie  Great  witli  activity  ;  and  the  fint  atep  she 
took  towards  the  d^irewwi  and  futwe  iaU  Of 
^  Ottoman  empire  was  to  tt^mlate  the  indc- 
pendesce  of  the  Crimea.  This  indepeodisnoe 
was  nnnous  to  the  Tartars,  irirom  it  delivved 
over  io  Russia,  by  depriviog  then  of  the  aub- 
sidies-of  Turkey >,  Hence  did  the  Crimea  reAiae 
to  accept  of  the  independence  imposed ;  and 
if,  for  the  &st  tame,  a  people  were  seen  reject- 
ing die  benefits  of  libar^,  so  dear  to  the  heart 
of  man,  it  was  only  because  they  calculated 
Aieir  real  interests.  Turkey  herself  would 
thereby  have  lost  a  poweiiul  aid,  so  useful  to 
her  f^nst  Russia.  In  short,  in  the  year  1 782, 
Russia  was  successful  in  plaiung  on  the  throne 


SiailizodbvGoOglc 


22  THE  lOHUN  ISLANDS.  [cRAF.  I. 

a  Kabn  subservient  to  her  will;  and,  availing 
herself  of  tbe  troubles  excited  by  the  hatred 
of  his  own  nation,  she  took  possession  of  the 
Crimea. 

In  vain  did  the  people  of  Constantinople 
loudly  display  their  indignation  against  this  ma- 
nifest violation  of  treaties.  The  Ottonuui  mi- 
nistry, iully  aware  of  the  impossibility  of  sb&- 
•taining  a  War  for  the  defence  of  tbe  Tartars, 
-refused  to  take  cognizance  of  the  affiursof  the 
-Crimea;'3nd  this  forced  sileoce:only  helped  to 
encourage  the  Rusaims  in  the  ezecutioni  of  their 
projects. 

Russia,  released  Jrtnn.  all  care  on.  the  side  of 
:  the  Crimea,  and  having  secured  the  means  of 
commanding  in  the  Black  Sea,  turned  her.  at- 
tention towards  Moldavia  and  Valachia.  She 
granted  Her  protection  to  the  Hospodars  •  of 
these  two  provinces ;  and  in  seeking  to  with- 
draw them  from  the  immediate  apprehensians 
of  the  Porte,  and  obtaining  for  them  the  privi- 
lege of  being  exempt  froin  dep03ition„prepared 
the  seeds  of  the  interior  troubles  which  were  to 
furnish  her  with  the  pretext  of  entering  into 

•  H(wpod«r,.or  Goq)odv.  (in  £utsian,  recnOAAF),  in  the 
.  Sclavonian  language  ei^aifies  Lord,  but,  in  its  political  accep- 
tation, this  title  is  equivalent  to  that  of  Sovereign  Prince. 
It  is  what  the  Greeks,  since 'the  time  of  CenEtanUne,  call 
■  Pwpots  (ii'*»'N).— Tr. 
1 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


chap;  I.]  THE  lONIAK  ISLANDS.  SS 

these  provincca,  and  takiDg  possession  of  the 
princap^  places. 

The  direct  projects  of  Catherine  II.  on  Tur- 
key were  not  confined  to  the  European  part. 
She  laboured  in  the  construction  of  a  navy  at 
Kerson  and  Astracan,  and  formed  establish- 
ments on  the  Caspian  Sea.  She  fitvoured  the 
ambitious  views  of  Prince  Heraclius,  Sovereign 
of  Georgia,  on  Persia,  and  furnished  him  with 
the  means  of  arming  and  maintaining  numerous 
bodies  of  troops.  Russia  thus  prepared  for  her- 
self the  means  of  attacking  the  Ottoman  em- 
pire, by  its  Asiatic  possessions.  In  order  to 
give  a  greater  fiicility  to  her  projects,  she  en- 
couraged, in  a  clandestine  manner,  the  species 
<if  open  revolt  which  at  that  time  existed  on  the 
part  of  the  Pacbas  of  Trebizonde  and  Bagdad, 
as  well  as  the  famous  Bey  Kara  Osman  Oglou. 
^ear  the  Pacha  of  Trebizonde  she  had  a  com- 
petitor in  the  Emperor  of  Austria,  who,  in  that 
quarter,  negotiated  with  him,  through  the  me- 
dium of  Mr.  Herbert. 

The  Emperor  Joseph  11.  was  acting  in  West 
Turkey,  with  an  activity  equal  to  that  of  Cathe- 
rine. Having  a  military  establishment  too  dis^ 
proportioned  to  the  resourses  of  his  realm,  he 
sought  to  increase  his  commerce,  and  to  avail 
himself  of  this  necessary  extension,  in  order  to 
attain  the  objects  of  aggrandisement  he  pro- 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


44  TBI  tovtAir  iitAMOk        [caA»*i< 

pfMed.  He  eomtodiieed  by  the  navigitum  «f 
the  Danube,  vben  several  large  bargei»  under 
Austrian  coloUTB}  wdre  seea  at  Kilis)  ud  seemed 
shortly  to  imnouiuie  the  Appearance  of  the  aanM 
ilog  in  the  K:u^k  SeA*  flince  It  would  not  have 
b«en  pos«ibl«  ta  refliM  him  this  privilege.  Th« 
lint  tMuIt  of  this  new  vent  opened  to  his  cotn- 
niel-ce  was  all  in  &vour  of  Hungarf,  whom  it 
^ntiched ;  and  the  second  was  that  of  ascertain" 
ing  and  dbUfving  the  progress  of  Russia  tm  thit 
Blaek  Sea,  as  wdl  as  her  uanauvreft  in  Molo 
davia,  and  more  espeeUIly  in  Vakchia. 

Undet  ^e  pretext  (tf  flunishing  Hungaty  w^ 
£Ulti»tDrfl>  of  Wbi6h  Ahe  stands  ih  lie«d,  in  ord^f 
to  make  the  niost  of  ui  eXceUebt  sd},  he  loughl 
to  induce  Greeks  to  fix  their  re^d(»iee  there. 
He  not  only  favoured  the  emigration  of  whtAa 
fitmUj^  seeking  to  fly  fi-om  th«  oppression  4^ 
their  masters,  bnt  he  also  spread  deco^ra  in 
the  moat  distant  provinces  of  his  dominionB^ 
who  easily  persuaded  the  unhappy,  borne  dowit 
by  3  barbarous  despotism,  to  fly  fro&  th<e  ydkB 
of  tyranny,  redudng  them  to  despair.  By  tiiese 
measures  Joseph  kept  up  a  tforretpoadefioe) 
and  obtained  paiiiBans  in  all  pctfts  6f  Greece. 
Abothn-  not  less  dficacious  mean  Was,  at  thd 
lame  time,  employed  by  him,  vit.  his  edit»  of 
iteration,  issued  in  1783.  He  therein  formally 
promisad  the  Greei»,  who  might  £ome  to  eata- 

\ 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


UiBh  tbemttivss  witbin  hig  itAt«s»  to  ftdmit  them 
to  all  dvil  and  mititftry  dignities,  according  to 
their  meritK.  A  great  number  of  Greekt  flocked 
there  ftotn  all  parts)  m&sj  fbrmed  tatabliah- 
menta  la  Tiieste  aod  Ftume,  and  rendered  the 
connQu&ioBtiotid  of  trade  between  Tutkey  and 
AuBtriA  considcraMj  mofe  active.  Others  wer* 
adtaitted  Into  the  luilitary  Bervice,  and  the  Sm* 
petOT  en^^oyed  them  with  succch  in  preparing 
the  materials  ftir  &  general  insurrection,  and  to 
ftdlitate  an  invaBioo,  by  obtaining  fbr  him  a 
por^et  knowledge  of  the  means  of  deftnce  pos^ 
tossed  by  the  Turks. 

He  kept  up  a  large  number  of  emiasari«s  id 
Albania;  a  province  then  as  independent  of 
Turkey  as  it  is  at  present,  and  of  which  all  the 
inhabitants,  as  well  -  Musselmans  as  Christians, 
have  the  most  marked  aversion  for  the  Os- 
manlis.  *  This  brave  people  are  as  jealous  of 
dieir  iod^MidenCe  as  they  were  when  Scander* 
beg,  at  the  head  o£  a  few  thousands  of  these 
intrepid  soldiers,  triumphed  over  the  Ottoman 
power,  at  a  time  when  the  whole  of  Europe 
trembled  before  it.    The  promises  of  the  Em> 

*  Thii  ii  th6  title  ottnimed  hj  the  Muuelman  subjecti  In 
tiw  Ottdmui  empire.  The  name  of  Turk  is,  in  fact,  an  in- 
jurious epithet,  riiongh  nov  in  common  use.  In  the  provlncei 
bfTorbey,  the  descendants  of  the  ancient  conquerors  aT» 
traenUf'baUedOsmanlii.^TK.  > 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


36  THE  lOHIAN  ISLANDS.  [ORAP.I. 

peror's  agents  staggered  the  Greeks^  a  consi- 
derable number  of  them  enlisted  in  the  Austrian 
Tegiment&>  and  the '  most  respected  bishopSi 
whom  he  had  sufficient  address  to  gain. over  by 
presents,  served  to  keep  alive  the  good  dispo- 
sitions entertained  in  his  favour.  The  -Arch- 
bishop of  Patras,  Parthenios,  who  had  been 
one  of  the  moat  ardent  in  stirring  up  the  Morea 
in  favour  of  Russia,  in  the  year  1770,  and  who 
had  been  obliged  to  take  refuge  at  Peters- 
burg, was  allured  to  Festh,  where  Joseph  made 
a  handsome  provision  for  him,  and  whence  he 
carried  on  an  active  correspondence  with 
Greece. 
The  interesting  position  of  Montenegro,  • 

*  Moatenegro,  in  TurkUIi,  Karatag,  and  in  Sclavoninji, 
Czemo  Gori,  is  a  mountainous  and  arid  district,  situated  be- 
tween Albania,  Erzegovina,  and  Dalmatia.  On  tlie  south  it 
is  bordered  by  Fastrovick  and  the  cantons  of  Antivari  and 
DulcigBo ;  to  the  east,  by  the  lake  of  Scutari  and  the  river 
Moraca;  to  the  north,  by  the  duchy  of  Erzegovina,  andto 
the  west,  by  Cattaro.  The  Mootenegrinos,  under  the  go- 
yernraent  of  their  Greek  bishop,  have  always  supported  their  ' 
'  independence  against  the  Turks,  and  are  allied  by  a  species 
of  confederation  with  the  Albanian  Mountaineers  called 
Cuzzi,  dementi,  and  Pipari.  These  different  people,  during 
the  existence  of  the  Servian  empire,  formed  the  duchy  of 
Zenta,  the  portion  belonging  to  one  of  the  brothers  of  the 
emperor  of  Servia.  The  history  of  the  Monteuegrinos  is  en- 
tirely unknown,  though  filled  with  many  interesting  traits ; 
and  we  understand  it  is  the  intcntisn  of  the  Author  of  this 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CIUKlO  THE. IONIAN   ISLAHDS.  27 

which,  by  itself  or  through  its  allies,  commands 
the  entrances  of  Servia,  .Upper  Albania,  and 
-Macedonia,  did  not  escape  the  En^ror  Joseph. 
Jit.  the.' beginniDg  of  1?8S/  one  of  his  agents 
9^ed!an  agreement  with  the  chief  of  the  Mcin- 
tenegrinos,  by  which  the  latter  engaged  to  take 
Dp  arms,  at  the  .first  notification  that  might  be 
given  to  tihem.  At  the  same  period  the  Aus> 
.trian  recruiters  extended .  themselves  as  iar  as 
Joabnina  and  Lanssa,  from  whence  they. ob- 
tained more  than  a  thousand  men  for  the  Im- 
perial army. 

It  was  thus  that  Joeph  11.  constrained  in  the 
enterprizes  he  might  have  undertaken  in  Vala- 
chia  and  Servia,  and  in  these .  two  provinces 
unable  to  do  more  than  watch  over-the  intriguea 
of  Russia,  sought  to .  extend  himself  along  the 
shores  of  the  Adriatic,  to. obtain  possession  of 
the  comm^ce  of  this  sea,  and  to.  embrace  Tur- 
key on  her  western  side.  The  possession  of  Dal- 
matia  and  the  mouths  of  the  Cattaco  by  the  Ve- 
nitians  did,  indeed,  delay  and^dinunish  the  result 
of  bis  political  intrigues,  as  well  by  depriving 
him  of  a  great  number  of  points  of  immediate 
contact-  whichwould  have  been  of  the  greatest 

Memoir  shortly  to  publbh  a  email  volume  of  the  annals  of 
these  people,  written  hy  their  Bovereign  bishop,  and  contain-' 

-ing  geographical  and  butorical  notions,  dcBcriptire  of  the 

■eaaaXTyftad  iu  inhabitants.— Ta. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


SB  TI»  lOHlAH  UhAVJM,  [dUr.L 

lervicB)  as  by  &vouriDg  the  under-band  dealiogn 
of  the  senate  of  Venice  agaifist  hii  prcgect& 
Whatever  inu  the  state  of  weikncBa  or  decline 
into  Tbich  the  repuldic  o(  Venice  had  feUen, 
^JB  very  circumstance  alone  vu  sufficient  to 
make  it  consider  the  occupatioo  of  the  western 
provinces  of  Greece  by  Austria  as  the  imme- 
diate cause  of  the  loss  of  Dalmatia  and  the  Seven 
Islands,  as  well  aa  the  precursor  of  its  o\m  total 
&U.  But  the  senate  of  Venice,  inert,  and  obliged 
to  em^doy  its  last  raaouroes  in  tudsr  to  sustain 
on  the  continent  an  edifice  ready  to  &U  to 
pieces,  was  too  much  und^  the  dependence 
«f  Austria,  who,  by  her  Italhui  poasessiona,  ei»- 
veloped  the  dominions  of  Venicci  to  be  aUe 
to  act  in  any  other  way  than  by  secret  rnen- 
Bures.  These  meatu,  which  m^U  indeed,  c^ 
pose  some  small  obstacles  to  the  advancement 
of  the  projects  o£  the  Empuvr  Josei^i,  uid, 
£»  a  certain  time,  delay  tbesr  accoraplisIiai«tf, 
wsre&r  from  being  calculated  to  make  a  strong 
impression  on  the  Greeks,  and  counterbalaiiee 
the  credit  which  ^e  power  of  Joeeph  U.  at- 
tached to  his  promises. 

In  1788  and  1784,  the  onreqKnidenoe  of 
the  Greek  merchants  of  Trieste  and  Fiume  ex- 
t^ided  even  as  far  as  into  the  Morea,  and  there 
assumed  a  diaracter  taore  directly  conoected 
with  the  views  of  Austria,  beiiqr  no  loiter  ««»• 


SiailizodbvGoOglf 


CHAF.  1.3       THB  unrutf  oLAiros.  at 

fined  to  general  exliortationa.  Tie  chiefi  of 
each  city,  u  well  as  tiie  iiJiabitants  knoini  t* 
poneu  tiie  greatest  infiuenoe  over  their  fellow 
c^ens,  were  formally  sounded  vith  regard  to 
their  sentineoti,  and  excited  to  aid»  in  case  of 
aeceaaity,  the  enterprtieB  of  the  Autrian  go^ 
Temiaei^ 

Oredk  offioera  in  the  service  of  the  Ea^ieror  * 
Joieph,  acoonpanied  by  enginens,  went  over 
Ae  eoasts  of  AJfaania,  the  Morea,  and  the  golf 
of  L^Muta  They  made  plans  of  the  fort^ed 
^aces  of  NanariD,  Medoiia  Fatraa,  a>  veil  as  of 
die  castks  stoiated  in  the  straits.  Tbey,  in  like 
iDaiuier«  examined  the  coast  of  Albania,  the 
nootfas  of  the  Cattarro,  and  the  gulf  of  A-dona. 
ITkey  sounded  the  gidf  of  Lepanto,  and  recon^ 
BfHtered  the  isthmus  of  CktVinth.  In  a  word, 
aotfatog  was  omitted  m  order  to  obtain  a  per- 
fect iotovledge  of  aH  positions  and  meant  of  de- 
towe.  The  repnbhc  of  Ri^usa  also  placed  its^ 
under  tiie  protection  of  ^e  Emperor,  who  max 
Bot  igoomnt  how  much  this  snnll  state  aoight 
be  usefid  to  his  views,  by  the  number  of  its 
vessds  and  exeellent  saOws.  Shortly,  Ae  Sm- 
perer  had  at  Ra^*ina  forty-fow  vessels,  placed 
tmder  the  name  of  a  merchant,  and  which,  ia 
a  few  di^s,  could  he  armed  and  e(|ui^4d  as  fii- 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


50  THE  ■  IONIAN  ISLANDS;  [CHAP.  I. 

The  Albanians  or  Epirotes  are  not  the  only 
people  who  at  that  time  could,  .and  still  may; 
hold  an  influence  over  the  fateof  western  Greece, . 
and  particularly  of  the  Morea.. .  There  is  ano* 
ther. nation,  less tiumerous,  but  more  interest- 
ing on  account  of  their  origioj  as  .well  as  ihe 
fidelity  with  which  they  have  preserved  the 
manners  and  remembrance  rof  their  ancestors. 
These  are  the  Mainotes ;  who,  for  two:thousand 
years,  have'  taken  shelter  among  the  rocks  of 
Mount  Taygetus,  and  equally  de&nded  dieir 
liberty  against  the  Romans,the  Greek  Emperors^ 
Venetians,  and  Turks.  Still,  up  to  the  present 
day,  they  proudly  assume  the  name  of  Spartans, 
or.  iree  Laconians,  (EXfu^tjioi  Aaxai'oi)  boasting 
never  to  have  paid  tribute  to  any  power,  and 
voluntarily  submitting  to  <;hiefi  whom  they  only 
acknowledge  as  long  as  they  conceive  them  in  a 
state  of  governing  them  well.  Their  name  alone 
inspires  the  Turks  with  dread ;  and,  singler 
handed,  and  without  foreign  succour,  they  are 
enabled  to  conquer  the  Morea-^  They  have  not 
been  discouraged  by  the  inefficacy  of  their  ef- 
forts during  the  last  expedition  of  the  Russians 
in  1770;  they  are  more  animated  than  ever 
against  the  Turks.  Few  years  afterwards,  that 
is;,  in  17S3-,  they  bound  themselves  by  a  solemn 
eath,  pledging  to  avail  themselves  of  the  first 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.^lO  "raE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  SI 

Snrourable  opportunity  to  take  posseaaion  of 
Mistro,*  which  they  always  look  upon  as  the 
capital  of  their  republic.  In  1 782,  two  Albanian 
captains  penetrated  to  Maino,  and  entered  into 
negociations,  tending  to  unite  the  two  people 
by  a  confederation.  The  principal  conditions  of 
this  confederation  were,  a  reciprocal  obligation 
to  enter  the  Morea  as  soon  as  one  of  the  tira 
should  be  attacked,  and  to  adopt  concerted  mea- 
sures in  order  to  conquer  this  peninsula,  as 
soon  as  the  Turks  should  be  engaged  in  a  war 
with  Russia  or  Austria ;  and  that  their  forces 
should  he  united  In  Servia,  or  on  the  Black  Sea. 
The  Albanian  deputies  offered  succours  in  war- 
like stores  and  money,  and  promised  to  transport 
field-pieces  there  by  a  sea-conveyance.  This 
last  proposition  would  prove,  if  any  doubt  could 
Still  be  entertained,  that  the  whole  negociation 
had  been  undertaken  at  the  instigation  and  un- 
der the  influence  of  the  Emperor. 

In  a  word,  the  Austrian  government  at  that 
time  neglected  nothing  in  order  to  obtain  the 

*  Mistra,  ernmeouflly  called  Miutra,  is  a  town  of  Morea 
built  near  the  ruins  of  ancient  Sparta,  for  which  reason  the 
Mainotes  consider  it  as  belonging  to  their  republic.  For- 
merly a  Pacha  held  his  establishment  in  Mistra,  and  gor 
verned  half  the  Morea;  but  now  a  Bey  only  resides  there, 
dependent  on  the  Pacha  of  alt  Morea,  wlio  Uvea  at  Tripo- 
Iitza.^TR, 


SiailizodbvGoOglc 


94  Tf»  J0VUX  iV(Mmh       [eHiJP.b 

ia&mne9  of  tb«  GkA^  i  vho.  ia  fi(ct,  begw 
(Q  consider  Joseph  II>  w  tMr  fpture  libenitiN>« 
itiHi  to  feel  towards  him  tte  sfuqp  ftt^adun^t 
they  always  had  ept^tainad  for  RusBia.  **  No*- 
Uung  mor«  was  wanting,"  says  the  auUior  oC 
the  Memoir  dwve  alluded  to»  **  than  the  muUi- 
pli^  faults  of  the  Runsiav,  iq  9rder  to  destroy 
the  stubbornMss  of  that  cpnSdeace  the  Greeks 
pF<rfessed  towards  them }  in  like  manner,  u 
notbing  more  was  waaUng  to  prevent  the  sue* 
cess  of  the  last  enterpnze*  thao  the  total  in- 
capacity and  bad  ciwduct  of  the  Ri^suan  offi^ 
cers  i  who*  in  the  whole  expedition  of  the  Ar- 
chipelago, sa^ificad  the  interests  of  their  so. 
Tereign  to  their  own  cowardice  and  insatiafate 
r^iacity." 

When  Catherine  II.  conceived  the  idoa  of 
srading  a  squadrwi  into  the  Meditenwiean,  sba 
had  previously  prq)ared  the  minds  of  the  people 
of  Greece  to  an  ipsurrection*  by  aendiog  «nui« 
saries  among  theoa ;  but  she  was  deceiined  by 
her  own  agents ;  wlio,  in  order  to  ilattflr  and 
gain  &vour,  made  all  the  difficulties  disappear, 
and  gave  assurances  that  nothing  more  was  ne- 
cessary than  to  appewr  on  the  i^KMres  of  Greece, 
where,  at  the  same  instant,  the  whole  of  the 
Greeks  would  be  seen  in  a  state  of  insurrection, 
massacreing  the  Turks,  and  receiving  their  li- 
berators with  open  arms.    All  the  memoirs  tbM 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.I.^  THE  JOmXB  nLAMSI.  33 

presented  to  tlie  Russian  government  contained 
^e  same  exaggerations,  as  -nill  be  proved  by 
the  analysis  of  the  projects  of  invasion  we  shall 
Portly  have  occasion  to  make  ;  nor  is  it,  indeed, 
remarkable  or  astonishing  that  a  government, 
ambitious  after  the  example  of  its  sovereign, 
should  have  blindly  believed  what  was  announced 
by  men  expressly  sent  on  the  spot  for  the  pur- 
pose of  examining  the  state  of  things.  It  is  not 
that  the  enthusiasm  of  the  Greeks  failed  at  that 
time  to  be  carried  to  the  higbest  pitch,  or  that 
they  would  have  been  unable  to  expel  the  Turks, 
if  they  had  been  iurnished  with  the  proper 
means ;  but  the  Russians  brought  with  them 
neither  arms  nor  warlike  stores.  As  soon  as 
they  had  effected  their  landing,  instead  of  scat- 
tering money  in  the  country,  and  thus  giving 
Bome  earnest  of  the  promises  they  had  lavished, 
their  officers  thought  of  nothing  else  but  pil- 
laging those  they  were  come  to  defend. 

Such  is  the  sketch  of  the  united  dangers 
which  threatened  the  Ottoman  empire  aftw  years 
previous  to  the  French  revolution.  It  is  evident, 
that  all  the  materials  of  its  &11  were  prepared; 
diat  its  enemies  were  sufficiently  powerful  to  de- 
stroy it  by  main  force,  and  that  to  their  ostensible 
means  they  had,  moreover,  added  secret  springs, 
(^  which  the  inevitable  effect  was  to  secure  and 
accelerate  the  result  of  an  open  attack.    The 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


$4  IHE   lOVJjUr  ULANDI.  [CHAF.I. 

mutual  jealousy  of  tiie  two  empires  wbich  then 
threatened  Turkey,  by  preventtug  their  union 
in  one  common  eSoit,  has  lUBtained  the  latter 
power  during  a  period  of  twenty  years.  Yet 
she  owed  her  conservation  to  no  other  than  the 
divergenoy  of  their  intereeta,  and  the  &ar  by 
which  each  was  actuated  of  the  too  great  ag* 
grondiaemeot  of  the  other.  The  delay,  how- 
ever, of  the  last  term  of  her  political  existence 
did  not.  render  her  situation  leas  precarious* 
nor  less  fraught  with  danger.  Austria  and 
fiussia  might,  in  short,  have  understood  each 
other  on  the  subject  of  a  partition,  or  one  of 
the  two  might  have  met  with  a  favourable  op> 
portunity  enabHeg  him  to  unite  all  his  mBans 
and  pursue  Us  object  with  fiirce  and  rapidity. 
In  that  case,  the  upion  of  the  different  elements 
of  destruction  we  have  above  explained,  would 
have  produced  so  rapid  and  violent  an  effect, 
that  a  short  time  would  have  sufficed  to  behold 
the  edifice  <^the  Ottoman  power  falUngtopiflces. 
Thus  might  the  disaolutioQ  o£  this  eDq>ire  banre 
been  considered  aa  inevitable  and  extremely 
i^ar,  when  theFrendi  revolution  bursting  forth 
called  the  attention  oi  the  greatEuropean  powers 
towards  the  west,  and  allowed  the  Turks  time 
to  respire. 

The  fifteen  first  yean,  of  this  revcJotion  passed 
over,  without  tho  Ottonan  on^e  ippeariog  to 
7 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CilAP.  t.]  tB£  IbKIAM  I8LASDS.  ti 

enter  into  consideration  in  the  scale  t>f  ^« 
general  ofiairs  of  Europe,  otherwise  than  as  an 
useful  auxih'ary  in  moments  of  necessity.  Hie 
fiill  of  the  Venetian  republic  had,  indeed,  united 
Dalmatia  to  the  disposal  of  Austria,  and  the 
Seven  Islands  to  that  of  France  i  but  the  latter 
power  was  still  too  much  agitated  by  its  Interiot 
troubles,  and  too  much  busied  in  Get-many  and 
Italy  to  be  enabled  to  ibrm  this  new  acquisition 
into  the  basis  of  a  reasonable  project  with 
regard  to  Turkey.  And  even  though  France 
at  that  time  had  been  in  a  state  to  direct  hef 
attention  to  the  above  quarter,  the  Republican 
government  preserved,  with  regard  to  that 
country,  the  same  views  and  ideas  which  had 
always  been  entertained  during  the  time  of 
the  monarchy.  The  political  existence  of  the 
Ottoman  empire  was  considered  useiul  and  even 
necessary  to  the  interests  of  France,  and  this 
new  possession  would  only  have  served  as  a 
more  efficacious  means  of  defending  and  se- 
curing it.  Austria,  did,  indeed,  behold  the 
accomplishment  of  one  of  her  favourite  projects 
in  the  occupation  of  the  ports  of  Zara  and 
Cattaro,  but  the  political  situation  of  Europe 
Occupied  her  to<J  seriously  in  another  quarter 
ft>f  her  to  be  able  to  recur  to  the  execution  of 
the  plans  of  Joseph  11. ;  and,  besides,  the  pre- 
tence of  French  troops  in  the  Ionian  islands 

L  ,i*<,i:,.,  Google 


S6  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  [CHAP.  r. 

placed  obsfiacles  in  her  way,  much  more  difficult 
to  surmount  than  those  the  republic  of  Venice 
had  been  able  to  oppose  to  her.  The  Austrian 
government,  however,  did  not  the  less  follow  up 
its  constant  plans  in  the  above  country,  and  in 
endeavouring  to  gain  the  good-will  of  the  prin- 
cipal inhabitants  and  attach  them  to  its  interests, 
it  even  succeeded ;  and,  at  a  later  period, 
that  is,  in  IS09  and  1813,  had  an  opportunity 
of  seeing  how  many  partisans  it  had  there. 

The  expedition  of  Egypt,  which  broke  down 
the  harmony  till  then  subsisting  between  France; 
and  Turkey,  was  rather  directed  against  British 
commerce  in  the  Indies  than  the  Ottoman  em- 
pire. This  truth  was  perfectly  well  felt  at  the 
time,  particularly  by  the  British  government, 
who  believed  it  their  duty  to  direct  their  whole 
attention  towards  Egypt,  and  considered  this 
expedition  of  extreme  importance.  But  the  war 
which  followed  this  infraction  on  the  part  of 
France,  and  occasioned  her  loss  of  \he  Seven 
Islands,  presented  to  the  Ottoman  empire  a 
chance  which  a  government,  enlightened  with 
regard  to  its  own  true  interests,  would  not  have 
suffered  to  escape-  This  was  herself  to  seize  the 
Ionian  Islands,  and  thereby  raise,  to  the  west 
of  her  dominions,  an  almost  insurmountable 
barrier  against  the, projects  of  one  of  her  ene- 
mies.   The  weakness  and  alowneas(  of  the,  Turks 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


faAt.  I.]  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  8? 

made  them  lose  this  iavourable  opportunity. 
The  RUssiaris,  always  on  the  alert  to  improve 
every  chance  of  partaking  in  the  navigation  of 
the  Mediterranean  and  form  an  establishment 
for  themselves,  readily  hastened  there ;  and  all 
the  Ottomans  were  able  to  obtain  was  the 
independence  of  the  Seven  Islands,  and  a  share 
in  the  protection  of  their  government.  It  is 
difficult  to  conceive  why,  from  this  very  mo. 
ment,  Great  Britain  did  not  cast  her  eyes  on 
80  interesting  a  possession,  and  of  such  great 
moment  to  her,  in  consequence  of  the  naval 
ferces'  she  was  ohliged  to  maintain  in  the 
Mediterranean.  It  would  have  been  extremely 
easy  for  her  to  have  united  sufficient  means  to 
take  possession  of  Corfti,  and  it  is  not  probable^ 
tiiat  either  Turkey  or  Russia  would  have  been 
disposed  to  contend  with  her  the  exclusive 
protection  of  this  new  state. 

Whatever  were  her  objections,  this  circum- 
stance has,  perhaps,  been  fortuhate  for  Turkey^ 
It  is  probable  that  the  French  governraent^ 
alarmed  at  the  vicinily  of  the  British  forces 
•itaated  at  so  small  a  distance  from  Italy,  even 
at  the  price  of  most  important  sacrifices,  would 
have  concerted  the  partition  of  the  Ottoman 
empire,  in  order  to  seize  on  the  cotuit  of  Albania 
and  the  Epirus,  and  thus  wrest  from  the  hands 
of  England  a  possession  of  such  vast  iriiportance^ 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


$9  THB  KUHAN  I8I.AIID9.  [CIT4?.  ft 

Tbi»  Istt«r  sssQTtion  18  &r  from  beimg  a  paradox  { 
vo  shall,  tiereailer,  see  to  what  length  the  b«- 
ture  of  the  bonds  existing  between  the  govern^ 
inent  of  the  Ionian  IsUnds  and  the  neighbouring 
continent  mvy  infiuence  the  security  and  d«K 
leace  of  Corfui  as  w^  as  c^  St.  Maura. 

The  same  b^pened  to  the  Ionian  Islands 
vhich  twenty  years  before  had  occurred  to 
the  Criotea*  that  is,  Rmsia  alone  obtained  pes- 
aesuon  of  tbeir  protfctitm,  and  s^it  troops 
there.  Tbia  cirenmatance  might  have  proved 
extremely  £M:aI  to  the  Ottoman  em]HTa,  if  the 
p(4itieal  aspect  of  Kurope  bad  not  been  change^* 
aEtd  the  coBttiMWtta}  troubles  in  the  west  had 
9P%  obbged  ^e  cab^ot  of  Si.  Petersbii?-^  to 
Hlsfie«4  the  execation.  oi  its  prefects  towaids 
theBaat.  The  auefessive  wars  of  isoo,  i«o^ 
sad  i$0i6,  too  seriously  occi^oed  Russia  and 
Austria,  for  either  of  them  to  think  of  Turkey. 
In  short,,  the  peace  of  Fresburg  having  united 
Dftjteatia,  la  the  kingdom  of  Italy,  and  that  of 
Tilsftfi  attached  the  Ionian  Islands  to  the  doml- 
li^tion  of  France,  the  Ottoman  empire  fowid 
itself  hetveea  three  poweriul  neighbours,  om 
of  %bicb,  «evertbele«s,  pves^Qted  hicuelf  as  9 
MwA  and  pvotectw. 

This  p«a^Q9  of  Turkey  then  became  ex* 
tJitfMly  precarious,  and  perhaps  ntere  dAHfes- 
tm  tJiAA  in  b»d  «v«r  befi^se  ^cw>  in  thff  -fet 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.  I.]  THE  lOKIlN  ISLANDS.  S9 

place,  after  the  peace  of  Tilsit,  France,  her  new 
n^ldwor,  ^pearied  to  abandon  her  to  the 
^tpoial  of  RitBHa ;  and  N^oleon,  whom  the 
execution  of  his  prefects  on  Spain,  and  the  war 
-irfaich  broke  out  i^nst  Austria,  kept  engaged 
in  anoUier  qnarter,  was  under  the  necessity  oi 
c^Rtring  to  the  Emperor  of  Russia  the  means  c€ 
gratifying  his  ambition,  by  apparently  giving 
jip  to  him  a  conqocst  which  had  always  been 
the  direct  of  the  wishes  of  his  predecessors. 
I  say  apparenUy,  for  it  is  not  probable  that 
Napolecn  could  have  wished  to  leave  Russia  in 
peaceful  possession  of  so  important  a  conquest, 
althou^  she  had  been  able  to  ^ect  it.  Not- 
witfastandiBg  tbc  war,  or  rather  the  skirmishes, 
which  the  fimpsror  Alexander  sustained  on  the 
fironttCTs  of  Persia  had  prevented  him  from  deriv- 
ing all  the  advantages  of  his  conquests  in  Georgra 
and  Imeritia,  in  order  to  attack  Tnrkey  in  Asia 
Minor,  and,  at  the  same  time,  on  the  Danube, 
he  still  possessed  a  sufficient  force  to  overturn 
tbe  Ottoman  throne.  The  partisans  he  had  ih 
Mridavia  and  Valachia  facilitated  to  him  the  ap- 
proadies  (tf  the  Danube,  and  the  revolt  o£  the 
Servians  opened  to  himi  the  heart  of  European 
Turkey,  and  served  to  secure  to  him  the  passage 
of  the  above  river.  AH,  in  a  word,  appeared  to 
presage  the  approaching  entry  (^his  armies  into 
Constantinople.  But  the  multiplied  iaults^a^  well 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


40  THB  HWUN  ISLANDS.  ^ CHAP.  I. 

jas  l^.ibexpertness,  of  his  generals  made  the  war 
litiger  without  any  decided  advantage ;  and 
Turkey  thereby  escaped  froi^  a  destructioB 
th^t  otherwise  appeared  inevitable. 

Whilst  Russia  was  sustaining  an  iU-co^diictied 
and  ruinous  war  against  the  Ottomans,  Austria, 
after  making  peace  with  France,  remained  in 
appearance  a  quiet  spectator  of  a  simple 
which  could  not  be. devoid  of  interest  to  ber. 
However,  exhausted  by  the  BacHfices  she  bad 
made  In  the  war  of  1809,  she  was  under  the 
necessity  of  recruiting  her  armies  as  well  as  her 
finances.  Well  persuaded^  on  the  oth^  hand, 
that  it  could  not  be  the  real  intention  of  France 
to  ahanidon  the  whole  of  European  Turkey  to 
the .  Russians,  and  that  the  Parisian  cabinet,  at 
l^st,  reserved  to  itself  an  important  part  of 
such  a  conquest  made  at  the  expense  of  others, 
the  Austrian  monarch  relied  on  obtaining  some 
provinces,  which  his  strength  and  situation  would 
always  enable  him  to  demand  whenever  it  should 
be  time.  An  ulterior  mofivewas,  besides,  joined 
to  the  preceding,  and  served  to  retain  Austria 
in  a  state  of  forced  inaction  with  regard  to  her 
ancient  projects.  Although  the  peace  of  Campo 
Formio  had  given  to  her  Dalmatia  knd  Cattaro, 
and  consequently  had  thereby  facilitated  the 
connections  she  had  previously  cultivated  in  Al- 
bania and  the  Morea,  the  situation  of  the  aflStir* 


^lailizodbvGoOglf 


CH4T.  I.*]  THE  lOKIAK  latAHDS.  41 

of  £ur(^e  allowed  them  no  longer  to  be  followed 
up  with  so  much  activity ;  and  the  negociatioiu, 
which,  twenty  years  before,  had  been  one  <£ 
ihe  objects  of  the  solidtude  to  Jos^h  II., 
-became  of  such  secondary  consideration,  that 
they  were  only  attended  to  in  order  that  their 
chain  might  not  be  lost»  and  an  opening  left  to 
jesume  them  at  the  first  ^vourable  opportunity. 
These  b(Hidsaonsequeatly  languished,  and  some 
of  them  were  even  broken.  Since  I>almatia  had 
ceased  to  belong  to  Austria,  remoteness  had 
cendered  these  communications  ^ill  more  rare, 
and.  interest  of  present  danger  obliging  the 
Austrian  government  to  unite  all  its  mean3'£)r 
its  own  |)reservatiDn  and  defence,  their  object 
ceased  to  be  interesting,  as  well  as  their  utility, 
for  the  moment. 

Thus  it  is  that,  since  the  year  1807,  we  no 
longer  £nd  any  traces  of  those  plots  and  machii- 
nations  prepared  with  so  much  dexterity  by  the 
Austrian  government  at  a  more  remote  period, 
nnie  Greeks,  on  their  side,  awaited  in  silence 
the  consequences  likely  to  result  to  them  from 
the  vicinity,  of  France,  and  the  influence  this 
same  vicinity  would  have  on  the  bonds  which 
had  existed  between  the  French  government 
and  the  Porte,  when  these  two  empires  were  more 
remote  froih  each  other.    Thi^  state  of  expec- 


DiailizodbvGoOglc 


1M  Tax   EOKUir  JtLiMDi.  [eUAF.Z. 

tancy  in  tbeir  minds  also  ncatreKzed  the  efect 
ef  all  the  iasuiuatiani  which  imgbt  then  have 
Ik«i  conveyed  on  the  part  of  Austria. 
.  After  the  peace  of  Tilsit,  and  more  espeei- 
slly  after  that  of  Alteobui^,  Fnmce  ibund  faer- 
■df  in  immediate  coataot  with  Turkey;  from 
the  confeies  of  Croatia  to  the  mouths  of  the 
Cattaro,  and  ftom  Chimera  as  far  a»  the  Morea. 
This  contact  leened  adapted  to  cbaoge  the 
oaCure  o£  the  preceding  rektions  of  the  two 
ewpirea.  It  did  not,  in  ^t*  uppeas  possible 
diat  France  could  hare  preserved  in  ber  vid- 
mty  the  same  interest  £»*  the  preswratba  erf* 
the  Ottoman  empire  which  she  had  when  ai- 
tBSted  at  a  more  remote  distance.  The  suc- 
o^uive  aggrandizement  of  Napoleon's  enxfRze; 
the  ever  increasing  pressure  he  exereiBed  frooi 
west  to  east,  and.  wliit^  even  his  &tal  war  in 
Spain  had  never  nupended  ;  all  seemed  to  an- 
MHiDce  that  «  new  cbange  in  the  pcditical  syitem 
of  Europe  was  about  to  produce  the  dismemba- 
stent  of  the  Turkish  empire.  Nevertheless,  tiu 
conduct  (^  N^wleon  towards  the  Porte  was  uni- 
ftirmhrdidiious ;  whether  it  was  that  be  had  iu)t 
yet  fixed  his  determination  cm  that  point,  or  that 
the  time  had  not  jet  arrived  for  putting  his  plans 
into  execution.  On  the  one  hand,  he  appeared 
to  alMtndoB  that  country  to  the  discretion  of 


DiailizodbvGoOglc 


CBAP.  1.3  fBE  lONUM  HX^ANSS.  48 

^.ttsua ;  twd  in  not  iDiittiiig  on  the  perfomumct 
of  «D  stdcie  in  die  treaty  of  Tilnt,  *  he  seemed 
(p  consent  to  its  depresiion  or  its  destruction. 
On  ^  other,  he  took  oare  to  ameliorate  the 
hnd  conmunicatioiH  of  Tvrk^  vith  Dalmati* 
«nd  Crostia,  and  to  open  others.  He  converted 
ItlQ  ciuton»<house  of  Kostainitza't  into  an  eo- 
far^tot  of  the  first  nak }  be  re-established  the 
^iiEi  of  Siiugaglia }  in  a  worA,  he  i^ipeared  dili. 
gQnt  t9>  eoosoUdate  the  commercial  communica- 
tiQ9S»in  con^niity  to  the  frontiers  at  that  time 
estatttishedt  as  weU  as  in  accord  with  the  pros- 
perity «nd  tBtegrity  of  the  Ottoman  empire. 
Never A^cts,  be  had  not  neglected  anj  at  the 
IINOfiOKa  capable  of  giving  him  an  exact  know- 
ledge of  the  country,  of  its  resources,  and  means 
of  deJence^    Numerous  conneetioDs  bad  been 

*  B7  this  aitJde  it  was  stipulated  that  the  Russian  troops 
■IwuU  sfMuata  M«ldiriB  and  Vdat^iik— 'Tb. 
'.  t  K^elwoila*  is  a  sia^  village  aitntcd  in  an  iatanct  «f  dM 
ivex.  Uwa,  to  ttie  soutb  of  Siasek,  and  on  the  coi^oea  at 
Bosnia.  It  was  formoHy  the  entrepot  of  the  land  commeroe 
fcetween  Turkey,  Austria,  and  Germany,  and  a  custom-house 
ira»  established  fbr  the  receipt  of  duties.  The  caraTSOs  from 
CknataatiBajife,  Sbtenica,  Monaslir,  and  lliesBalyi  came  by 
Vm  ir&K  of  Seofi  and  Soa^StTtgp  to  this  point,  whence  tbt 
coniBU>ditie»  nere  coBvejted  to  Fiume,  Trieste,  X<aybash,  a«d 
Vienna.  Napoleon,  in  1810,  also  made  Kostainitza  an  entre- 
pot for  the  commerce  carried  on  between  Upper  Italy  and 
Tui^}^  ani)  tbis  trade  soon  became  extremely  ffourish- 
i»g.r-Ta. 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


44  -THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  i[cHAP.  I. 

formed  in  the  provinces  of  Greece ;  the  -va- 
tious  consuls  had  received  instructions,  tending 
either  to  furnish  the  information  wanted,  ot,  in 
ft  secret  manner,  to  work  uiran  the  public  mind. 
Officers  had  been  sent  into  the  country  under 
different  pretexts,  and  all  had  brought  back  with 
them  :memoirs  more  or  less  important.  The 
frequency  of  these  missions  had  already  beguii 
to  create  inquietude  in  the  suspicious  ch«-acter 
of  the  Turks.  Ibrahim,  Pacha  of  Scutari,  on 
this  subject  observed  to  the  Author,  "  Napo- 
leon now  sends  one  Frenchman  after  another ; 
soon  he  will  send  ten,  then  one  hundred,  next 
a  thousand,  and  afiterwards  a  whole  army.'* 

Some  persons  have  pretended,  that  without 
the  rupture  with  Russia,  which  took  place  in 
1812,  the  iutenlion  of  the  Emperor  Napoleon 
was  to  carry  his  arms  into  Turkey.  Others 
again  assert,  that  this  expedition  was  not  to  be 
carried  into  efiect  till  after  the  campaign  of 
Russia,  and  the  re-establishment  of  Poland. 
The  truth  is,  no  act,  no  ostensible  measure, 
authorizes  the  conclusion  that  a  war  with  the 
Ottoman  empire  was  among  the  number  of 
projects  which  then  occupied  the  mind  of  Na- 
poleon. In  1810  he  received  a  project  of  an 
invasion  of  Turkey,  founded  on  the  fiicilities 
he  might  derive  from  his  extended  frontiers, 
and  the  possession  of  the  Seven  Islands.     U« 


idiiizodbyGoogle 


CHAP.  I.]  THE   IONIAN  ISLANDS.  45 

simply  caused  the  author  to  be  told,  that  he 
was  satisfied  with  his  labours,  without  adding 
a  word  ftom  which  it  might  be  inferred  that  he 
£>und  them  of  immediate  utility,  or  even  that  he 
intended  to  avail  himself  of  them.  The  little 
iuccess  of  the  war  carried  on  by  the  Russians 
prevented  the  necessity  of  his  explaining  himself 
with  regard  ■  to  Turkey ;  and  the  revolutions 
which  have  ibllowed  the  war  of  1812  have  set 
aside  the  solution  of  a  political  problem,  the 
importance  of  which  has  for  the  present  ceased. 
.  It  results  from  what  we  have  hitherto  laid 
down,  that  the  immediate  danger  under  which 
Turkey  was,  with  regard  to  Russia  and  Aus- 
tria, towards  the  end  of  the  last  century,  ceased 
at  the  period  of  the  French  revolution;  butwhen 
the  political  system  of  Europe  shall  at  length 
have  been  consolidated,  and  tranquillity  re-esta- 
blished in  the  west,  this  same  danger  may  again 
recur.  However  distant  this  period  may  be 
from  us,  it  is  not  the  less  to  be  foreseen ;  and  . 
if  the  Ionian  Islands  had  fallen  into  the  hands 
of  one  of  the  two  latter  powers,  this  circum- 
stance alone  would  have  hastened  its  approach. 
.  Certainly  it  is  most  '"desirable,  both  for  the 
good  of  humanity  and  the  glory  of  polished  Eu- 
rope, that  the  Greeks  should  be  freed  from  the 
debasing  and  tyrannical  yoke  under  which  t^icy 
now  groan.    But  if  such  a  revolution,  which  of 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


46  tat  lONlAK  latANOS.  [cR'AI't  U 

themselves  they  are  unable  to  undertake,  wete  tA 
be  effected  by  the  neighbouring  poirers,  the  re* 
suit  would  be  &r  from  being  so  locally  advanta- 
geous as  at  first  might  be  imagined.  In  the  first 
place,  the  Greeks,  divided  among  their  new 
masters,  and  united  to  the  ancient  provinces  of 
their  dominions,  would  lose  all  hopes  of  ever 
fiu-ming  a  consistent  nation,  and  would  see  their 
name  entirely  eflaced  horn  the  catalogue  of  the 
states  of  Europe ;  for  it  must  not  be  believed 
that  either  of  the  two  intends  to  abandon  the 
Greeks  to  themselves,  or  to  give  them  their  in- 
dependence, after  expelling  the  Mahometans. 
With  regard  to  the  rest  of  Europe,  such  a  revo- 
lution could  not  fail  to  be  disadvantageous,  by 
concentrating  the  commerce  of  Turkey,  at  pre- 
sent scattered  among  all  the  maritime  states,  in 
the  hands  of  two  powers,  who,  through  their  own 
interests,  would  convert  it  into'  a  species  of 
monopoly.  Russia,  by  acquiring  the  exclusive 
possession  of  the  ports  of  the  Black  Sea,  and 
a  free  passage  into  the  Mediterranean ;  Austria, 
by  establishing  herself  in  Albania  and  the 
Morea}  would  both  become  maritime  powers, 
equally  dangerous  and  Injurious  to  the  com'' 
merce  of  the  other  nations  in  these  interior  seas. 
The  trade  of  the  Levant  would  exclusively  ftB 
into  their  hands ;  and  more  especially  Rusftia, 
by  oteting  into  direct  communication  with 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CaiF.  1.3  :raB  JOHUN  IgLAHBS.  ^ 

Syria  and  Egypt,  mi^t  euity  pnxlacc  a^  sea-' 
sible  deviation  in  the  commerce  of  the  But  In* 
dies. 
-  It  liM  idways  been  the  interest  of  France,  and 
at  preaent  it  is  more  particularly  to  of  England; 
that  the  commerce  of  the  Levant  should  not 
fijl  into  other  hands  than  those  of  Bafa}ects  of 
the  Ottoman  empire;  and  the  integrity  of  diia 
empire  is  one  of  the  inseparable  conditions.  In 
the  actual  state  of  things,  the  aggrandisements 
of  Russia  and  Austria  render  a  protecting  power 
infinitely  more  necessary  to  the  Ottoman  Porte. 
France,  enfeebled,  can  no  longer  serve  as  a 
counterpoise  in  her  favour  on  the  Coatineiit, 
where  her  government  has  lost  all  its  influence. 
There  is  no  one  then  but  England  who,  by  the 
preponderance  of  her  naval  forces  in  the  Medi- 
terranean, can  preserve  and  guarantee  Turkey 
from  harm  }  and  the  occupation  of  the  Ionian 
Islands  gives  her  a  still  stronger  means  of  at- 
taining this  object.  In  the  first  place,  their  geo- 
graphical utuation,  embracing  the  southern  parts 
of  Greece,  and  placing  them  in  contact  with  all 
the  provinces  which,  properly  speaking,  may  be 
called  Greek,  gives  to  the  power  under  whose 
protection  these  islands  may  remain,  an  influ- 
ence in  these  same  provinces  sufficient  to  stop 
the  effects  of  all  the  intrigues  and  plans  which 
the  other  continental  powers  might  attempt 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


48  THB  IONIAN   ISLARDi.  [cHAP.I. 

there.  AgaiDi  the  pennanent  presence  of  the 
British  fi)rces  on  a  point  so  nearly  approached 
to  the  Ottoman  empire^  by  rendering  the  bonds 
which  already  unite  these  two  powers  still 
stronger  and  more  direct,  gives  a  much  greater 
degree  of  weight  to  the  mediation  of  the  first, 
and  materially  adds  to  the  security  of  the  se- 
cond.. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAPTER  II. 

Governmental  System  of  the  Venetian  Senate^— 
Effects  of  this  System  on  the  Ionian  Islands'.—' 
Situation  of  these  Islands  from  1800  to  1812. 

Under  the  government  of  the  Venetians, 
the  Ionian  Islands,  the  only  remains  of  their  an- 
cient dominions  in  the  East,  were  treated  as  a 
conquered  country,  rather  than  as  colonies ;  and 
the  constitution  itself  of  that  republic  added  to 
the  harshness  and  tyranny  of  a  proconsular  and 
foreign  administration.  As  among  the  Romans, 
where  the  republic  was  only  to  be  found  in  Rome, 
with  the  Venetians  it,  in  reality,  existed  but  on 
the  lakes  where  the  capital  was  situated.  The 
nobles  of  Venice,  the  descendants  of  the  first 
founders  of  the  state,  whose  cradle  was  long 
hidden  among  the  fens  and  streamlets  of 
Bachiglione  and  the  Brenta,"    were,  in  feet, 

*  The  river  Bachiglione  takea  its  source  in  the  hilli  of  the 
Sereo  Comniuiiec  {Sette  Communii),  to  the  N.  E.  of  Vicenja, 
panel  through  this  city,  and  loses  itself  near  Padua,  in  the 
eanals  which  conveyits  waters  towards  the  takes.  The  Brenta 
derives  its  source  in  the.Tyrol,  to  the  east  of  Trent,  panel ' 
t^  Bassano,  and  loses  itself  near  Fadua,  in  the  canal  leading 


^oiizod-byGoogle 


50  THE   IONIAN   ISLANDS.  [|CBAP.  II. 

the  sole  citizeDS ;  all  the  rest  were  vassals.  The 
nobles  of  the  main-land,  separated  from  those 
of  Venice  by  an  odious  distinction,  almost  con> 
tinually  experienced  the  eOects  of  the  insulting 
superiority  of  the  Venetians.  Great  sacrifices 
might,  indeed,  procure  to  the  formci:  the  dis- 
tinguished  honour  of  seeing  tb^ir  nentes  tran- 
scribed on  the  Golden  Book  ;  but  the  illusive 
advantage  of  taking  part  in  tbe  sittings  of  the 
senate  was  more  than  compensated  by  the  little 
credit  they  enjoyed,  in  consequence  of  their 
marked  inferiority  with  regard  to  those  whose 
families  were,  if  we  may,so  call  it,  born  in  the 
abqve  book,  as  well  as  by  ^he  jealous  care  with 
which  they  were  kept  from  the  high  offices  and 
distinctions.  It  was  only  in  the  provinces  o£ 
the  continent  that  their  title  of  PWwii  inter 
pares,  which  assimilated  them  to  the  proconsuls 
seat  by  the  senate,  and  placed  them  in  an  inter- 
mediate rank  between  these  despotic  r'epre- 
sentatives  and  their  vassal  fellow-citizens,  gave 
them  a  credit  which  they  did  not  fail  to  abuse. 
In  the  provinces,  they  rendered  back  the  humi- 
liations they  had  experienced  at  Venice,  and 

from  the  latWr  City  to  FueiBe.  Formerly  these  tws  thtr$ 
fM  into  the  lake*.  The  port  of  the  Branta  was  tbeo  Fuln* 
{Mrdoacut  Major) ;  ^d  the  port  of  the  Bachiglione  wsa  » 
litUo  t»  the  N.  of  Chioggis,  and  called  Sttdooait  Miaor.-^tik. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


C&A^  It.]         ttta  lOlllAtf  ISLAHOA.  XI 

th«i^{>owe#  SQd  fiches  made  tb«m  into  «o  m&ny 
domestic  tyrants. 

'  Tht  DalttiAtiBti  nobim  caUtd  Sclavoniatis,  u 
weH'ba'th«  Greek  noblest  Mnere  atill  ranked 
b«tieath  ttibs&  bf  the  mftin-l6nd»  and  th«  first 
Vel«,  indr«i  «^p^ially  treated  with  an  arrogAnet 
aind  diftdaln  which  can  scarcelj  be  irriAgined. 
ir  thd  fnoEit  setene  setiate  end  the  most  illus* 
trlous  Bafoibotti  •  had  dared,  they  would  haw 
cUrned  them  into  so  many  Hots,  since,  iti  their 
own  tnfnds,  they  did  hot  believe  them  much 
AiipeiiW  t«  ^these  unhappy  vaaaah  of  the  ftusterb 
Spartani  With  regard  to  the  rest,  they  were 
iddflitely  more  jealous  than  disdainful.  The 
i-ivadty  and  natural  perspicacity  trfthe  Greeks-, 
the  superiority  of  their  native  talents,  and  their 
marlGed  a^^Btttde .  for  the  arts  and  sciences^ 
spp^ited  dangerous  to  a  jealous  government, 
mdre  ibrmed  for  dmall  intrigues  than  great 
administrative  concerns,  and,  at  the  same  tiffle» 
incapable  of  conceiving  and  prosecuting  a  phi- 
lanthropic plan. 

*  This  was  the  term  applied  to  the  poof  sobflity,  *ho,  beinft 
ine«ribed  dd  th«  giMta  book,  Were  sntitled  1«  a  wflt  lb  dik 
g/rvai  coiuioil  <>f  the  Pregttii,  Iwd  fomMil  part  of  tht  wm 
jerese  goyenunent.  Tbe  r^ublic  paid  to  tb*  poor  Banubott^ 
an  alimentary  peneioo  of  two  Venetian  livres  per  day,  equa| 
to  lOd.  starling.  This  wat  the  moat  corrupted  and  venal  cIm* 
yt  the  Venetiaii  noblec  .--^Tb. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


St  THB  lONUM   ISLANDS^  [CHAP.  fl, 

The  decline  of  the  Venetian  repul^,  whidi 
had  commenced  at  the  time  when  the  discor 
veries  cf  the'  Portuguese  opened  a  pew  road  to 
the  copimerce  of  the  Indies,  and  was  con^leted 
by  the  league  of  Cambray,  had  forced  thiv 
government  into  a  continental  system  of  policy 
materially  affected  by  its  increasiifg  weakness 
and  its  want  of  influence  in  the  political  scale 
of  Europe.  Incapable  of  supporting  itself  by 
its  own  personal  importance,  it  sought  its 
conservation  in  the  pliancy  of  its  intrigues. . 
Frequently  injured  and  perplexed  in  tiie  wars 
excited  in  Italy,  through  the  pretensions  and 
political  views  of  France,  Austria,  and  Spain  i 
compelled  to  And  in  its  own  address  the  means 
of  escaping  from  the  ambitious  desi^s  <^  the 
bouse  of  Austria,  particularly  when  the  latter^ 
by  the  acquisition  of  Lombardy,  had  inclosed 
the  state  (^Venice  in  its  own  dominions;  the 
senate  <^  Venice  employed  all  its  effitrts  to 
perfect  the  Machiavelian  and  inquisitorial 
8]rstem  of  government,  which  already  existed 
io  this  republic.  Whether  it  was  that  this  admi- 
nistrative system  was  the  o£&pring  of  the  stormy 
circumstances  in  which  Venice  had  on  several 
occasions  been  placed,  or  was  the  result  of 
the  character  and  natural  inclinations  of  the 
Venetians,  certain  it  is,  that  it  is  to  be  foun4 
4     -   : 


_  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


CMAP.  II.j  THK  lONIAK  ISLANDS.  ^ 

irom  the  very  first  page  of  theif  histoiy,  which 
presents  several  celebrated  examples. 

Tlie  state  of  Venice  was  an  aggregation  of 
provinces  conquered  in  the  prosperous  days 
of  the  republic,  and  held  in  a  continued  vassal- 
age with  regard  to  the  capital,  without  ever 
having  formed  a  whole,  united  by  the  equality 
(frights  or  by  a  voluntary  confederation.  The 
rivality,  and  even  the  hatred,  which  existed 
between  the  various  provinces,  remains  of  the 
ancient  civil  wars  of  Italy,  and  which  in  the 
times  of  prosperity  the  senate  had  cherished 
and  kept  alive,  in  order  to  prevent  the  danger 
of  a  league  between  its  vassals,  who  might 
thereby  have  become  its  masters — this  rivality, 
I  say,  which  could  no  longer  be  extinguished 
when  Venice  had  lost  her  maritime  grandeur, 
still  contributed  to  render  this  republic,  when 
changed  into  a  continental  state,  an  aggrega* 
tion  almost  heterogeneous,  which  the  govern- 
ment only  kept  united  by  its  policy. 

Perhaps,  at  this  period,  a  firm  and  patriotic 
government,  by  making  some  sacrifices,  might 
have  been  able  to  give  a  new  form  to  the 
state,  and,  by  connecting  with  the  capital  the 
provinces  retained  after  the  league  of  Canlbray, 
to  have  created,  even  to  the  north  of  Italy,  a 
state  sufficiently  powerful  to  command  respect, 
and  capable  of  being  fearlessly  placed  in  the 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


M  tttC  lOVtANia^HU..  [C&AP.  ». 

pchlitical  balance  between  France  aa4  Attstiia; 
But  the  Venetiaos,  tUl  then,  M  only  been 
BSLclmively  connnercial  and  maritime  j.  the  edu- 
cation of  the  young  nobles^  the  £wm  and  insti- 
tutions «f  tbeii  government  bore  towards  the« 
two  ol^ects  i  every  thing  was  fi^bicmeil;  aAet 
and  habituated  to  the  finessea  and  wtrigues  tbejt 
had  employed  in  their  mercantile  ^eculMranSb 
A  total  revoluti<Hi  io  thdr  constitution  would 
hate  been  necessary  to  briog  ^em  back  to  a 
government  such  as  was  conformable  to  tbn 
iifiterests  of  a  power  now  b«coiB«  continental. 
Wise  juid  enlightened  men  were  waating,  w« 
will  add  moce^  true  patriots  could  no  loDger  be 
found,  to  propose  and  conduct  suofa  a  revoltitioa 
with  success;  and  wbcHi  the  senate  was  obliged 
to  concentrate  the  whole  of  its  attentioQ  on 
the  continent,  it  brought,  into  its  adtniiustnu 
tive  system  hq  other  than  narrow  and  inte- 
rested views,  which  led  it  oa  to  deceptions' 
and  tyranny,  resorted  to  in  order  to  sustaia 
itself. 

One  of  the  principal  means  employed  by  the 
senate  of  Venice,  for  the  purpose  of  securing 
its  interior  power,  waa  tl^  organizatiai]  and 
even  the  overstraining  of  iJiat  aristocracy  wbicfr 
constituted  the  basis  of  its  government.  The 
more  the  noblea  of  the  proviaces  were  powerful 
and  considered*  thos^ofVewcc,  elevated  to  a 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CfiAV.  n.3  nCE  tCMIAN   JBLAXOa.  ig 

itiU  faigber  d^ree,  prt^rtionably  ofotaibed 
greater  influence  and  credit  over  the  mau  of 
the  people.  This  tncreue  of  power  in  the 
public  opinion  vbs  necessary  to  the  exercise  of 
the  dif^torial  authority  vith  which  the  man- 
datories, elected  among  these  same  nobles,  were 
invested.  The  impenetrable  veil  which,  to  the 
eyes  of  the  people,  covered  the  operations  and 
designs  of  the  senate  and  supreme  council, 
assumed  a  new  aspect  of  terror.  An  invisible 
and  inexorable  power  weighed  heavy  on  th« 
head  of  each  citizen-;  all  the  faculties  were 
concentrated  into  those  of  obedience,  and  this 
servile  obedience  carried  its  expression  even 
into  the  relatioDs  of  society,  and  gave  to  the 
Venetians  the  habitude  c£  an  exa^erated  po- 
liteness; whilst  every  thing  was  interlarded 
with  the  title  of  ^jce/fescy,  now  become  triviid, 
because  it  had  been  lavished  without  distincticm. 
instead  of  patriotism  and  that  spirit  of  national 
unity  which  had  never  existed,  and  which  the 
senate  never  evea  sought  to  elicit,  an  absolute 
despotism  and  blind  servitude,  on  the  part  of 
the  people,  served  to  prevent  all  possibility  of 
partial  revolts,  rendered  so  extremely  dangerous 
throu^  ihe  activity  wi^i  wbidi  Austria  woukt 
have  availed  hersedf  of  the<n,  in  or^er  to  dis- 
memlMr  the  repeblic  under  the  pretext  of 
mediation. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


S6  THE  IONIAN  ItLASriM.  [CHAF.  It^ 

The  senate  of  Venice,  nevertheless,  did  not 
content  itself  with  the  powerful  engine  which 
the  aristocratic  league  formed  by  the  govem- 
mrat  presented  to  it,  in  order  to  contain  the 
citizens  and  the  people.  To  this  it  endeavoured 
to  add  another,  which,  at  the  same  time,  served 
to  prevent  the  nobility  of  the  provinces  from 
^busing  the  credit  and  preponderance  given  to 
them  by  the  constitution.  This  was,  the  most 
entire  and  extended  application  of  the  princit 
pies  developed  by  Machiavel,  and  of  the  adage 
so  frequently  repeated,  divide  ut  imperes.  Not 
only  the  animosities  produced  by  the  ancient 
livality  Of  the  towns  and  provinces  of  the 
Venetian  continent  were  cherished  and  k^t 
ilive,  nay,  often  envenomed,  but  the  policy  abo 
of  the  Senate,  and  of  the  proconsuls,  distributed 
under  the  title  of  Proveditors,  stirred  up,  in 
each  province  private  hatreds  among  ^milies,  . 
as  well  patricians  as  plebeians.  The  right  of 
sanctuary  was  re-establiahed  and  encouraged)  . 
and  the  privileges  of  the  nobility,  converting 
their  castles  into  asylums,  which  the  terror  this 
order  inspired  rendered  inviolable,  made  each 
province  shortly  present  no  other  than  the 
image  of  civil  aqarohy,  organized  by*  govern- 
ment allowing  every  thing,  with  the  exception 
pf  what  regarded  its  own  existence  and  admini- 
stration.   The  nobility  divided  themselves  into 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.n.]  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  Si 

parties,  of  which  each  one  had  its  hired  assas- 
sins ;  the  people  formed  themselves  into  groups' 
of  dependents,  under  patrons  sufficiency  power- 
fill  to  protect  private  acts  of  vengeance,  or  the 
lives  of  those  who  stood  in  dread  of  penal  retri- 
bution. Blood  flowed  with  impunity,  either  by 
the  orders  or  with  the  permission  of  the  nobles. 
The  senate,  who  judged  it  necessary  to  its  own 
interests  to  maintain  the  nobility  in  dissipation, 
and  to  allow  them  to  use  their  strength  in 
private  quarrels  which  time  rendered  implaca- 
ble, was  not  ashamed  to  &vour  the  effusion  of 
blood,  since,  by  a  system  of  barbarous  legisla- 
tion, the  assassin  was  sure  to  escape  from  death, 
and  often  from  prison,  if  he  was  only  patronized 
and  abetted  by  some  power&l  man. 

The  Author,  in  examining  the  registers  of 
the  prisons  of  Palma  Nova,  in  the  year  1797, 
found  one  person  entered  on  the  books  as  con- 
demned to  ten  years*  confinement,  for  having 
killed  ten  men,  and  his  neighbour  to  twenty 
years,  for  having  spoken  ill  of  the  Potestat  (the 
mayor). 

Such  ti  system  as  this  could  not  iail  to 
increase  still  more  the  corruption  and  venality 
of  the  Venetian  nobles,  and  spread  these  two 
scourges  throughout  all  the  branches  of  pro* 
vincial  administration.  The  Proveditors,  gene- 
rally chosen  from  among  the  Venetian  nobles 


DiailizodbvGoOglc 


J9  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  [CHA*.  H. 

most  necessitated,  whom  their  intrigues  xiid 
those  of  a  numerous  ^tnily  raised  to  this  office* 
scarcely  ever  solicited  the  Dotniuation,  unless 
Sot  the  purpose  of  accumulatiDg  riches,  and 
they  conducted  themselves  in  a  manner  to 
attain  their  object.  They,  in  fiict,  held  in  their 
own  hands  the  means  of  corrupting  men,  whose 
probity  could  not  have  been  founded  on  solid 
and  unchangeable  principles.  In  serving  the 
views  of  the  senate  they  acquired  the  right  of 
selling  justice  to  all,  of  trafficking  places  to  the 
ambitious,  of  bartering  the  pirotection  of  the 
most  serene  Prince  to  the  weak  possessed  (^ 
money,  and  even  of  fixing  a  price  on  the 
blood  of  their  proteges ;  whom  they  even  sold 
to  their  enemies  richer  than  themselves.  Cu- 
pidity impelled  them  to  stir  up  law*suit8,  in 
order  to  increase  their  revenue  and  feed  intes- 
tine dissensions,  and  to  provide  them  with  more 
means  of  selling  out  their  mediation  and  pro- 
tection. There  was  only  one  class  which  had 
never  access  to  them  j  this  was  that  of  the  citi- 
zens and  people.  It  was  contrary  to  the  designs 
of  the  government  to  acknowledge  ^y  rights 
to  the  latter,  or  to  afibrd  them  any  means  of 
protection  ;  and,  excepting  a  small  number  i^ 
merchants  who  frequently  ended  by  purcha»ng 
a  diploma  of  nobility,  this  cUbs  was  too  poor  to 
enter  into  the  scale  of  the  Proveditor&. 


soiizodbyGoogle 


CHAf'  UO  TH£  IONIAN  I9L1NDS.  SO 

Such  V48  the  ^atem  of  goreromest  put  into 
{u-actice  by  the  seoate  of  Venice,  the  efkcts  of 
\vbich  west  on  increaping  til}  the  moment  of 
its  &H,  thereby  rendered  so  easy.  It  waa  the 
aame  the  Venetians  had  also  established  and 
followed  up  in  the  Seven  Islands,  under  some 
modifications  rendering  it  still  more  oppressive 
to  the  country.  The  representatives  of  the 
Venetian  republic  in  the  Ionian  Islands  were, 
if  possible,  still  more  debased  and  corrupted 
than  those  of  the  continent,  whence  their  ad- 
ministration  became  more  injurious  to  the 
people,  and  also  more  dilapidating.  All  kinds 
of  dissensions  were  there  carefully  kept  alive  and 
increased ;  and  an  active  and  continued  civil  war 
desolated  the  country,  whilst  a  moral  conflict 
disunited  the  inhabitants  of  the  towns.  Always 
constant  in  the  system  of  jealousy  and  distrust 
which  the  character  of  the  Greeks  inspired,  or 
rather  through  theeflfects  of  adopted  principles, 
purporting  that  public  education  ought  to  con- 
firm all  the  subjects  of  the  republic  in  the  sen- 
timent of  dependence  to  the  mother-city,  tlie. 
seoacc  did  not  allow  the  establishment  of  any 
oatioaal  school  in  the  Ionian  Islands.  The  same 
precautions  bad  been  taken  with  regard  to 
the  Dahnatians ;  aad  the  ^^ts  of  such  a  plan 
had  been  to  stop  the  progress  of  knowledge 
both  among  one  and  the  otl^r,  md  to  keep 


soiizodbyGoogle 


60  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  [cHAP.  U. 

them,  more  particularly  the  latter,  in  a  state  of 
profound  ignorance.  Consequently  it  was  only 
to  Venice  or  Padua  that  the  Greeks  were 
allowed  to  come  and  receive  instruction  in 
literature  and  the  sciences.  These  two  schools 
would,  undoubtedly,  have  sufficed  for  the  edu- 
cation of  the  young  Septinsulars  and  tended 
to  the  advantage  of  their  native  country,  whi- 
ther they  would  have  brought  back  the  mental 
lights  they  had  acquired,  if  there  had  only  been 
something  national  in  their  studies.  But  they 
merely  learnt  how  to  become  Venetian  sul^ects,< 
and  -their  ideas,  always  verging  towards  this 
<Hily  centre,  rendered  them  foreign  to  Greece, 
"where  by  birth  they  belonged.  Nevertheless, 
in  order  to  prevent  its  ultra-marine  subjects 
from  too  much  improving  by  a  plan  of  instruc- 
tion, already  subjected  to  all  the  influence  of 
the  inquisitorial  regimen,  the  senate  had  taken 
the  greatest  care  to  furnish  them  with  Uie 
means  of  enjoying  the  fruits  of  their  studies; 
without  having  had  the  trouble  to  follow  them 
up.  An  actofthe  most  perfidious  Machiavelism, 
decorated  with  the  pompous  title  of  privilege, 
allowed  them  the  faculty  of  purchasing  the 
diploma  of  doctor  of  arts  on  the  simple  attests-, 
tion  of  the  completion  of  private  studies,  and 
after  an  examination,  the  more  or  less  severity 
of  which  depended  on  the  fortune  of  the  candi* 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


•BAP.H.^  THE   lOmAN  ULANQS.  61 

date  for  £he  dociin^hip.  For  the  purpose  ci£ 
compIete!;^  extinguishiDg  every  idea  of  nation- 
ality, the  government  had  gone  so  &r  aa  to 
exclude  the  Greek  language  from  all  public 
acts;  and  had  succeeded  in  banishing  it  from 
good  society.  The  force  of  example,  and  the 
corruption  produced  by  slavery  were  such,  that 
in  the  Ionian  Islands  a  Greek  only  spoke  his 
own  language  to  the  counby-people  or  his 
servants,  and  would  have  blushed  to  con- 
verse ia  it  with  one  of  his  countrymen  well- 
educated,  or  who  pretended  to  be  so. 

The  &I1  of  the  Venetian  republic  carried  the 
French  troops  into  the  Seven  Islands.  They 
brought  with  them  sdl  ^e  principles  oi  At 
revolution,  which  at  that  time  were  entirely 
democratic^.  This  absolute  democracy,  sue 
ceeding  all  at  once  and  without  any  intermedi- 
acy  to  the  aristocratical-  de^btism  of  the 
Venetians,  produced  an  unpleasant  effect,  and 
was  even  received  with  dis&vour.  This  could  not 
be  oUierwise.  The  first  e0ect  of  the  presence  of  a 
military  force  infinitely  superior  to  that  the  Vene* 
tians  had  maintained  there, was  an  unusual  charge 
imp  osed  on  the  infaatntants.  The  difierence  <^ 
language,  ratirely  new  to  the  Greek  lobians, 
that  of  the.  manners  and  character  of  the  repub- 
lican French  soldiers  proud  of  their  victories 
and' liberty,  con^pared  with  the  miserable  esistr 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


eS  TSG  lOnUM  ISLANDS.  lOBAf.  ITi 

ftnce  and  debued  slavery  of  the  wretched  troops 
of  St  Mkrc,  produced  a  sensation  at  first  bjr 
no  means  advantageous  to  the  French  legioHs. 
The  representatives  of  tbe  French  govei^rtirent 
found  themselves  in  contact  with  the  offieen 
of  the  republic  of  Venice  as  well  as  with  the 
nobles  of  tbe  islands ;  and  both  the  one  and  tbe 
other  could  not  fail  to  behold  with  displeasure 
an  administration  established  on  principles  SO 
contrary  to  their  personal  interests.  The  partii 
sans  a£  the  lion  of  St.  Marc  sought  to  make 
head  against  the  French,  ind  the  people  belicOd 
ivith  distrust  and  almost  with  regret  a- change 
of 'which  they  did  not  know  the  result.  ''Sotnt 
errors  into  wiiich  the  French  representativei 
were  drawn,  through  their  ignorance  of  the 
true  situation  and  character  of  the  inhabitants 
of  a  country  with  which  France  had  never  been 
in  direct  relation,  aWd  which  made  them  place 
their  confidence  in  bad  hands,  perhaps  even 
t  little  too  much  despotism  on  their  part>  in 
the  first  moments,  alienated  the  inhabitants'  vf 
the  Seven  Islands  fi'om  them.  ' 

This  dis&vour  did  not,  however,  last  loogf 
and  the  first  public  acts  promulgated  in  the 
name  of  the  French  government  awakoocd  iii 
the  hearts  of  the  Greeks  a  sentiment  whi<A 
Venetian  Machiavclism  had  indeed  laid  don 
utant,  but  had  been  unaU&  to  exttngnbb.    Tbe 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


CHAB.l^.}  TAB  IONIAN   ISLAMOS.  6ft 

name  of  country  was  to  theiu  no  longer  that  of 
a  distant  and  foreign  region;  it  recalled  toi 
tbem  their  native  land,  the  bqH  wherein  the 
bones  of  their  ancestors  reposed  ;  that  country* 
in  short,  which,  for  ao  many  centuries,  had  been 
linked  to  the  destinies  of  Sparta,  Argos,  Athens^ 
and  Thebes ;  which  had  given  birth  to  Ulysses* 
and  seen  the  Fheacides.  flourish,  as  well  as  many. 
other  worthies  proud  of  the  Greek  same.  The 
national  language  re-aasumed  its  place  in  the 
public  acts,  and  again  appeared  in  society^ ' 
The  Greek  religion  became  the  prevailing  one, 
and  that  of  their  new  protectors  was  only 
tolerated.  The  democratical  forms  placed  the 
administration  in  national  handsjand  the  people,, 
being  in  immediate  contact  with  the  magis- 
trates, who  spoke  their  own  language,  no  longer 
experienced  the  want  of  interpreters  in  their 
owa  country. 

Under  French  administration  the  Seven  Is-. 
lands  began  to  breathe;  and,  freed  from  the  ex> 
torlions  of  the  Venetian  pro-consuls,  the  weight 
of  a  miUtary  government,  which  the  state  of 
war  rendered  still  necessary,  though  it  did  not, 
in  their  eyes,  counterbalance  the  real  advantage 
of  a  liberal  government,  paved  the  way  to  the 
returp  of  tranquillity  and  the  re-union  of  the 
public  mind,  so  long  banished  from  among 
them.    A  pi^ce,  administered  with  exactitude 


^lailizodbyGoOglC 


04  THE   lONIAH  ISLANDS.         [cBAF.   U'. 

and  military  severity,  caused  the  civil  war  in 
the  country  to  cease,  and  the  destruction  of  a 
government  which,  through  political  system 
and  the  corruption  of  its  agents,  sustained  in- 
tenor  disorder,  put  an  end  to  the  causes  so  long 
i^)posed  to  the  re-establishment  of  harmony 
among  the  citizens.  The  only  rivality  which 
still  existed  was  that  of  the  difierent  islands  with 
each  other ;  and  this  rivality,  which  the  com- 
munity of  government  would,  undoubtedly,  in 
time  have  deadened,  could  not  disappear  unless 
by  the  effect  of  a  spirit  of  general  union  and 
patriotism,  which  could  not  be  expected  bat 
from  the  progress  of  public  instruction,  particu- 
larly of  a  national  kind. 

Duriijg  the  time  the  Ionian  Islands  were  in 
the  hands  of  the  French  government,  the  school) 
of  Italy  and  France  were  open  to  the  young 
Greeks.  The  spirit  of  liberty  and  of  independ- 
ence they  brought  back  with  them  found  ample 
nourishment.  Public  instruction,  ameliorated 
in  these  same  schools  by  the  progress  of  the 
^irit  of  the  age,  notwithstanding  the  exaggera- 
tions inseparable  from  a  moral  revolution  so 
complete,  communicated  .to  them  useful  know- 
ledge.  Their  natural  avidity  for  learning,  and 
the  perspicacity  with  which  nature  has  gifted- 
them,  caused  them  to  make  a  rajMd  progres»;^ 
and  in  returning  home  they  found  themselvet 


3,a,l,;t!dbyGcX)gIe 


CHAP,   n.]         THE  imriAN   ilUUTDSv  9$ 

capable  of  Berviog  their  coimtry  with  utflit^k 
All  tbese  united  causes  contributed  to  give  to 
the  Septinsulars  a  tendency  towards  civil  and 
political  liberty,  nrhich  nothiog  can  now  eztin* 
goish,  since  it  lias  braved  and  out>lived  all  the 
efforts  of  the  Venetians.  This  tendency  only 
requires  to  be  wisely  directed  in  order  to  pro>k 
duce  and  consolidate  the  prosperity  of  this  in^ 
firnt  state.  Its  weakness  and  the  vicinity  of 
two  enemies  to  its  independence,  place  it  under 
die  indispensable  necessitf  of  receiving  the 
guardianship  of  a  powerful  and  disinterested 
protector;  and  its  present  interior  happiness,  aa 
well  as  its  tranquillity  and  iiiture  prosperity,  do 
not  the  less  require  the  watchful  care  of  an  en- 
lightened preceptor,  in  order  that  they  may 
brighten  and  be  secure.  This  double  task  has 
now  devolved  on  Great  Britain.  Let  us  hope 
that,  in  confiding  the  direction  of  the  loniaa 
government  to  wise  hands,,  and  in  applying  to 
tlus  country  the  principles  of  civil  liberty  and 
liberal  institutions,  so  well  known  and  practised 
in  En^nd,  this  task  wUi  soon  be  fulfilled,  both 
to  the  advantage  of  humanity  and  to  the  benefit 
of  grateful  loniQ.. 

The  war  whicii  bcok?  out  in  l1^9  between 
France  and  Turkey  soon  afterwards  brought 
abo^t  the  expulsion  of  the  French  troops  from 
tilt  loniui  Xshuids.    This  catastrophe,  beyond 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


«6  rm  lOMiAH  nLAHoa.      [coat.  ii. 

«]1  donbt,  was  Bingukrly  &dlitated  hy  the  pre- 
dlcunent  in  which  the  fVench  Qovemor^neral 
w^B  then  placed.  One  of  his  misfbrUiDet  wu 
bis  Fupture  with  Ali  Pacha,  who,  by  remainii^ 
friendly,  would  have  been  able  to  protect  in  sn 
efBcodlous  manner  the  defence  of  CoHu  and  St. 
Maura.  By  the  above  event  the  Ionian  r& 
public>  who^  independence  had  been  acknow- 
ledged by  a  Bcdemn  treaty  in  1 800,  was  placed 
Hnd»  the  commoa  {^qtection  of  Russia  and 
Turkey.  This  joint  protection,  so  contrary  to 
Uie  prefects  and  interestB  of  Russia,  could  not 
last  long.  Hence  were  discuaaioos  soon  seen  to 
arise ;  and  the  Russian  govemauiU»  in  confbr- 
mity  to  its  ancient  tactics,  continued  to  sow  dis- 
cords, for  the  purpose  of  afterwards  prolog 
by  them.  The  Turkish  government,  for  reason) 
We  shall  hereaAM'  ex^^ain,  undertook  to  iavotir 
the  nobility.  This  inconsiderate  patronage 
tended  to  light  up  the  extinguished  Actions,  and 
again  divided  the  popular  mind.  Hie  agents  of 
Russia  increased  the  disorder,  by  multifdying 
tiie  inquietudes  of  the  people^  and  alarming  the 
democratical  party.  The  parties  were  soon  in 
presence  of  each  other,  and  in  aaore  than  one 
place  formed  ccmtentionB,  imd  even  came  to 
Mows.  The  rivality  of  the  islands  aaK»g  iJMin- 
selves  became  a  re^  and  active  struggle,  oa^ 
•core  of  prccedem^  and  sovereigBty.  Fttblie 
t 

L,  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


CHA».   n.]         taiS  IONIAN  I^LANbS.  6? 

tranqnillitj  w«s  every  where  destroyed,   and 
ansrcfay  rapidly  gatoed  ground.    The  ma^s. 
trates^  isolated  amidst  these  disorders,  fomented 
by  the  vant  of  address  on  the  part  of  one  pro- 
tector, and  through  the  policy  of  the  other, 
found  themselves  deroid  of  all  aathority,  and 
tmable  to  make  them  cease.     In  this  extremity, 
Ibe  only  means  left  of  restoring  order,  and  re- 
organizing  the  state,  on  the  eve  of  diasolutiot^, 
was,  in  de&ult  of  8  powerful  mediator,  to  choose 
between  the  two  protectors,  and  to  be  satisfied 
with  one  only.    Even  though  the  intrignes  of 
Russia  had  not  influenced  the  choice,  this  conld 
not  hare  been  dubious  between  Musselmans  and 
Christians  of  the  same  rites.    The  magistrates 
consequently  intplor^  the  aid  of  the  Emperor 
Alex^ickr.    Russian  troops  were  sent  to  the 
Seven  Islands,  and  the  exclusive  protection  of 
this  r^mblk  was  transferred  to  Russia,  who  sent 
thither  a  minister  plenipotentiary. 
-    SooD  ai^ervrarda  the  Ionian  Islands  received  a 
consthatienal  charter;  for  even  at  that  time  con- 
stitutions were  in  vogue^  particularly  (hose  which 
coald  be  given  to  others.    This  coHstitutioaj  . 
proposed,  discussed,  and  approved  at  Peters- 
burg', on  the  one  side  partook  of  party-spirH, 
infiaoed  by  the  disorders  which  had  settfeely 
oeased  in  ^e  idaads ;  and  on  tbe  other,  q£  tb« 
V  s 


.  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


68  THE  lOirUN  ISLANDS.         [CRAP. 

nature  of  such  ideas  as  it  was  possible  to  find  in 
Russia  of  a  liberal  government.  The  project 
presented,  and  the  demands  made  by  the  Ionian 
deputies,  form  a  precious  monument  of  the 
rapid  progress  public  opinion  had  made  in  their 
country,  and  of  the  aptitude  of  the  Ionian  ma- 
gistrates. The  whole  evidently  proves  that  if 
they  had  only  been  directed  in  a  career  in  which 
they  wanted  nothing  but  the  lessons  of  experi>' 
ence,  and  not  imperiously  led  on  towards  an 
object  traced  by  foreign  hands,  their  country 
had  every  thing  to  expect  from  their  zeal  and 
capacity.  But  their  constitution  had  only  been 
discussed  and  examined  in  the  office  of  the  Rus- 
sian minister  for  foreign  affairs,  in  conformity 
to  points  of  vague  information,  frequently  fur- 
nished by  party-spirit,  and  without  any  real 
knowledge  of  the  political  situation,  national 
character,  or  wants  of  the  people  for  whom  it 
was  intended.  The  author  himself  had  an  <^* 
portunity  of  seeing  a  large  portion  of  the  papers 
relating  to  the  above  work,  in  which  one  of  his 
own  friends  was  engaged,  who,  nevertheless, 
was  not  possessed  of  any  correct  notions  on  the 
Ionian  Islands ;  for  which  reaaon  he  has  not 
besitateij  to  advance  what  has  just  been  penned. 
This  constitution  was,  however,  promulgated, 
eiecuteds  ^od  the  government  installed.    The 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.   U.3        Tarn  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  69 

eflfect  of  any  goTerntnent  whatever,  when  the 
admiDiStration  is  well  conducted  and  the  laws 
put  in  force,  is  always  more  or  less  to  restore 
order,  even  when  a  great  number  of  individual 
interests  are  thereby  ai!ected.  It  is  only  when 
it  is  absolutely  contrary  to  the  wishes  and  wel- 
&rp  of  the  mass  of  the  nation,  and  in  direct  op- 
position to  that  moral  and  irresistible  force  which 
constitutes  the  public  opinion,  that  apprehen- 
sions may  be  entertained  of  troubles,  and  the 
pear  approaches  of  a  revolution  be  foreseen. 
The  latter  case  was  not  that  of  the  new  Ionian 
government,  whence  order  was,  to  a  certain 
point,  re-established,  and  public  tranquillity  re- 
stored. This,  indeed,  would  have  been  com- 
pletely effected  if  the  Russian  minister  plenipo- 
tentiary had  been  more  prudent,  and  the  civil 
{md  military  administration  had  been  less  dila- 
pidated. When  the  Author  first  arrived  at 
CorAi,  without,  however,  being  employed  there, 
France  had  scarcely  taken  possession  of  the 
Seven  Islands,  and  the  Russian  minister  was 
still  on  the  spot.  At  this  period  the  public  voice 
accused  him  of  having  made  his  own  private 
fortune  the  principal  object  of  his  admioistra- 
tion,  and  of  having  nearly  practised  all  the  ob- 
liquity of  conduct  so  remarkable  in  the  Vene- 
tian Froveditors.  With  regard  to  the  military 
administration,  the  government  was  burdened 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


93  THE  nnnAir  ikumdi.      [ckap.  iz. 

laid  the  foondation  of  a  solid  edifice,  suitaUe  to 
the  chferacter  and  interesta  of  the  inhabitants. 
But  the  successive  loss  of  Zante,  Cephalonia, 
Si.  Maura,  and  of  th^  other  islands,  soon  re- 
duced the  Ionian  republic  to  the  sole  island  of 
Corfu }  and  all  his  other  cares  had  to  yiiHA  to 
that  of  the  preservation  of  this  rampart  of  the 
Adriatic,  which  he  defended  till  1614,  aodooljr 
gave  it  iq»  at  the  rettoratimi  of  peace. 


3,a,l,zt!dbvG00g[e 


CHAPTER  III. 

Relations  of  the  Ionian  Islands  with  the  neigk- 
■  ■  bmiring  Continent  when  under  the  Venetians. 
■'^Obstacles  opposed  thereto  ^  AH  Pacha.~~ 
Policy  of  the  Venetians  towards  him. — A^ 
vantages  they  derived  from  the  Towns  of  the 
Greek  Continent. — Influence  of  these  Towns 
on  the  Defence  of  the  Ionian  Islands. — Faults 
committed  by  Russia  in  ceding  Jour  of  these 
Towns  to  Turkey. 

A.S  long  as  the  loQian  Islands  were  tinder  tlie 
power  of  the  Venetians,  their  commercial  TtA%. 
tions  with  the  neighhouriag  coptinent  were  ex- 
tremely  shackled*  and  by  that  republic  subjected 
to  a  monopoly  which  rendered  their  effect  nearly 
null  to  the  rest  of  Europe,  and  even  so  to  Italy. 
Two  motives  contributed  to  fetter  these  rela- 
tions. The  first  and  most  pow«^  of  thesewaa 
the  trade  which  the  Venetians  thunselves  car- 
lied  on  in  the  Levant,  of  which  they  sought  to 
retain  exclusive  possession.  Their  vessels  were, 
in  the  habits  of  going  to  Salonica  in  search  of 
goods  whi^h,  otherwise,  wo^td  have  ^om^  direct  • 


3,a,l,zt!dbvG00gli; 


74  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.         [CHAP.   UI. 

from  the  fairs  of  Magarovo,  *  Mavronoro,  and 
BoBila^  to  Arta  and  Corfu.  This  commerce^ 
more  easy  and  more  abundant,  would  have  en- 
riched the  Seven  Islands  too  much,  and  this  was 
what  their  jealousy  of  the  Greeks,  and  the 
state  vf  absolute  dependency  in  which  they 
sought  to  keep  them,  would  not  suflfier  the  Ve- 
netians to  9U0W.  The  entrepot  of  Arta,  alone, 
had  a  direct  communication  with  Corfu  ^  sod 
even  this,  through  the  possession  of  -Firevesa 
apd  Vonitza,  was  entirely  under  the  dependence 
of  Venetian,  monopoly.  The  second  motive 
was,  the  situation  in  which  the  Venetian*  stood 
towards  th^  continent  near  to  the  Ionian  Islands, 
and  which  rendered  all  the.  coast  of  Albania 
extremely  dangerous  for  the  caravans  coming 
&o^  the  Ulterior  to  Keiacha,  Bucintr6,  and  Go- 
moutia.  i 

'  *  Magarovo  U  a  smaU  town  to  the  V.  W.  dt  Monagtir. 
i^OTC'the  falrt  arc  held  'mftep^ly  callsd  ibote  «f  Moawtit. 
the  prineip*!  iriiele  of  traffic  ia  colitOii.  MavrfiMro  is  ■ 
itDaiLtown  near  GrevDV,  wheutlie  ijurs  of  fotrepot  aie  Iifld. 
The  merchandize  of  Theasaly  and  Macedonia  are  brongbt 
here,  and  the  merchants  of  the  four  neighbouring  proviDCes 
come  to  itrake  thetr  porchastr  there.  "Tbh  a  the  most  jtctin 
CBtnepoC  of  aH  Gwece.  Booila  !■  a  I'JUaga  litnateiia  bague 
fnm  Jmsflioa^  nhere  AU  Pinha  baiU  a  h^  fi»  &in  ttf  be, 
held  in ;  but  the  eitabdishmeat  languishes  throngb  his  own 
fiiult,  as  well  as  owing  to  liie  vexations  the  trade  of  the  gulf 
of  Arcta  experiences.— Tr. 
•  ■  t  Th^threBplaceysflBiJtuatrfott  tbe  OteA  conthHfnrt 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


Hie  feirs  of  SUnigagliB,  »o  much  ^equented 
by  the  Greekt,  were  seldoofi  visited  by  th^  Al- 
banians and  Epirotians.  Even  the  merchants  of 
Corfix  only  went  there  as  the  partners  or  agents 
of  the  Venetians.  It  was  to  Venice  that  both 
one  and  the  other  resorted,  to  purchase  the  re- 
fuse of  European  goods,  which  the  Venetians 
sold  to  them  at  a  high  price ;  and  the  Septtosu- 
lan  hadnot  even  been  allowed  to  arail  thentselves 
of  the  commerce  of  Albania,  and  carry  it  on 
fin*  their  own  account,  in  ports  foreign  to  the 
Venetian  states.  The  relations  of  the  Icmian 
Islands  with  the  Greek  continent  had  there&re 
no  advantageous  consequences  in  ikvonr  c£  the 
said  islands ;  the  few  benefits  it  produced  were 
an  reserved  for  the  commerce  of  Venice,  and 
the  direct  communications  did  not  go  beyood 
social  relations,  which  the  confonnity  of  lan- 
guage, of  religion,  and  origin  maintaiaed  be- 
tween the  lonians  and  Epirotians,  the  Acamo^ 
nians  and  Moreans. 

In  conformity  to  the  political  ffystem  which  the 
senate  of  Venice  had  adopted  with  regard  to 
Turkey,  and  the  jealousy  with  which  it  viewed 
the  establishments  of  Ottoman  subjects  on  the 

near  to  ea«h  other,  and  almost  oppoeite  toCorfu.  Theyare 
geographically  described  in  the  body  of  the  work.  Bucuiti5 
is  the  proper  name  of  the  place  described  by  our  geographen 
linder  that  of  Bucintr6.— T«. 


SiailizodHyGOOgle 


76  THB  lONUN  ISLANDS.       [cRAP.   m. 

Adriatic,  which  it  considered  as  its  owd  exclu- 
sive  patrimony,  it  had  taken  all  possible  precau- 
tions to  fetter  and  obstruct  them.  Being  no 
longer  able  to  r«take  from  the  Ottoman  empire 
the  ports  of  Dulcigno,  Alessio,  Durazzo,  and 
Aviona,  the  three  first  of  which  they  lost  with 
the  inheritance  of  Scanderbeg,  though  possessed 
by  them  some  years,  the  Venetians  had  endea- 
voured, at  least,  to  prevent  the  Turks  from 
ettablishiog  themselves  there,  from  Cape  Len- 
guella,  as  &r  as  the  Dardenelles  of  Lepanto. 
They  had  succeeded  in  their  projects,  and  tb? 
barbari^  of  the  Northern  Albanians,  as  well  as 
the  difficulty  of  the  communications  of  Dul- 
eigno,  Alessio,  Durazzo,  and  Aviona  with  the  in- 
terior of  Turkey,  having  prevented  the  Otto- 
mans from  turning  these  places  into  entrepots 
ot  commerce,  they  had  not  been  able  to  enter 
into  competition  with  the  Venetians  on  the 
Adriatic. 

The  establishment  and  increase  of  the  power 
of  Ali  Pacha  had  become  a  subject  of  new  and 
real  inquietude  to  the  Venetians.  The  extraor* 
dinary  fortune,  genius,  and  ambitious  character 
of  this  new  neighbour  appeared  to  them  ex- 
tremely dangerous  to  the  security  and  tranquil- 
lity of  the  Seven  Islands.  Indeed  Ali  Pacha 
scarcely  took  the  trouble  to  disguise  the  pro- 
jects he  had  formed  on  the  Yenetian  i^vm  of 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CHAP.  ■  in.]       THE   IONIAN   ISLANDS.  YT 

the  continent}  and  even  on  Corfa  and  St.  Maura 
to  the  conquest  of  which  the  possession  of  the 
above  towns  was  to  lead  the  way.  The  Vene- 
tians still  remembered  the  &mous  Veli  Bey,  bis 
grand&ther,  who  died  like  a  hero  under  the 
ramparts  of  Corfu,  and  whose  death,  perhaps, 
had  saved  the  place.  They  did  not  at  the  same 
time  doubt  that  it  would  accord  both  with  the 
glory  and  interests  of  Ali  to  re-conquer  the 
grave  of  his  grandfather,  which  was  preserved 
as  a  kind  of  trophy.  Since  Ali  had  obtained 
the  Pachalic  of  Joannina,  all  his  efforts,  all  his 
political  intrigues,  bad  constantly  tended  to  dis- 
possess Mustapha,  Pacha  of  Delvino,  his  rival, 
in  consequence  of  the  situation  of  his  govern- 
ment, as  well  as  to  subject  the  independent  or 
insurgent  tribes  occupying  the  coast. 

The  first  means  the  Venetians  resorted  to  &r 
the  purpose  of  counteracting  his  views  was  in- 
trigue. The  more  he  laboured  through  the 
weight  of  policy  and  negociations  to  reduce 
tribes  whom  it  was  impossible  for  him  to  subject 
by  force,  the  more  did  the  Venetians  oppose  to 
him  countervailing  measures,  and  applied  them- 
selves to  destroy  the  efiects  his  promises  or 
threats  might  have  produced.  They  excited  all 
kinds  of  parties  against  him ;  granted  nearly 
open  protection  to  his  enemies,  and  even  an 
asylum  when  they  were  un&rtunate.  They  paid 
fax  the  provisions  of  Corfu  in  arms  and  warlike 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


•78  tBE  KOTIA*  «tAWD8.        [cUaP.   tJt. 

atom,  which  thej  handed  over  to  the  Fbtlates, 
or  Tziamides,  Paratnithians,  and  Souliots.  Thej 
excited  and  favoured  the  excursions  of  the  Acsr- 
DEUiiaps ;  and  each  time  that  AM  Pacha  carried 
hif  forces  to'  one  point  of  his  government,  in 
order  to  pacify  insarrections,  or  subject  iosur- 
gents,  the  Venetian  agents  did  not  &il  to  nsake 
the  conntries  situated  in  an  opposite  direction 
rise  i^»  and  thereby  divide  his  means  and  atten- 
tion. They  kept  up  active  correspondence  with 
the  Pachas  of  Berat,  of  Del  vino,  and  Avlona,  and 
neglected  nothing  that  could  prevent  them  from 
making  a  sincere  peace  with  their  old  enemy. 

As  a  sanction  to  their  conduct,  and  to  remove 
all  suspicions  from  the  divan,  they  represented 
to  the  Porte,  aa  a  pretext,  that  they  were  acting 
in  conformity "  to  the  interests  of  the  Ottoman 
empire  itseltwhose  government  could  not  with  a 
favourable  eye  behold  the  rapid  increase  o^  the 
powerofAliPacha.  Hencedidtbeystipulatewith 
the  Ottoman  Porte  that  Ali  Pacha  should  not  be 
allowed  to  raise  a  fort  on  the  continent,  unless  at 
the  distance  oi  a  mile  from  the  coast.  They  ri- 
gorously abided  by  this  condition  ^  nor  was  Ali 
«t  any  time  abk  to  fortify  even  the  maritime 
castom-house  of  Salagora,  although  placed  in 
the  interior  of  the  gulf  of  Arta.  For  the  saone 
reason  they  never  permitted  any  Turkish  vessel 
to  come  out  of  the  gulf  of  Arta,  and  much  lesa 
to  appear  in  the  channel  of  Cwfu,  of  in  that  of 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CHAP,  m.]        THE  IONIAN  in^MDI.  79 

St.  Maura,  Itfaaciis,  or  Cephalonia.  From  a 
waiit  of  means  to  carry  them  on,  the  Turin 
ven  obliged  to  leave  all  the  fisheries  of  the 
coast  in  their  hands,  or  were  under  the  nece»- 
vty  of  farming  them  out  at  a  very  low  price  to  the 
inhabitants  of  the  neighbouring  islands,  to  whon, 
through  an  extraoi'dinaTy  instance  of  generoti^, 
the  senate  of  Venice  gave  up  the  privil^e  t£ 
this  extremely  lucrative  branch  of  industry, 
which,  besides,  required  no  advance  of  funds ; 
for  the  sole  fishery  of  Porto  Palermo,  which  on 
An  average  annually  produced  near  one  hundred 
thousand  dollars,  was  farmed  out  for  the  trifling 
nim  of  nine  hundred. 

If  the  Albanians  and  the  other  people  of  the 
coast  contiguous  to  Corfu  and  St.  Maura  had 
been  impelled  by  a  decided  inclination  for  a  sea« 
fitring  Hfe,  it  is  probable  that  all  the  precautions  . 
of  the  Venetians  would  not  have  been  able  to 
prevent  their  navigation,  or  their  sharing  in  the 
commerce  of  the  Adriatic.  A  determined  re- 
solution on  this  subject  would  have  compelled 
th&  Venetians  to  more  condescension,  or  would 
have  brought  about  an  open  rupture,  and  a  stats 
of  hostilities,  which  they  had  as  much  interest 
in  avoiding  on  the  part  of  the  inhalntants  of  the 
coast,  as  they  had  to  keep  the  latter  In  a  state 
of  var&re  with  Ali.  But  all  these  people  are, 
in  general,  warriors,  shepherds,  or  agriculturist^ 


SiailizodbvGoOglc 


80  THB  lONlAV  ISLAMtoS.       [|CQAF.   m. 

•nd  navigation  and  maritime  commerce  have  no 
attractions  for  them.  Satisfied  with  the  mer- 
diandize  the  Venetians  brought  for  them  to  Bi> 
cintr6  or  Preresa,  and  the  latter  not  sufiering 
them  to  want  arms  and  ammunition,  which  they 
ardently  sought  and  stood  in  need  of,  they  never 
turned  their  attention  to  maritime  affairs,  or  even 
to  the  occupations  of  fishing.  This  entirely  con- 
tinental character  of  the  people,  capable  of  enter- 
ing into  more  direct  and  immediate  relation  with 
the  Ionian  Islands,  greatly  &voured  the  policy 
and  views  of  the  senate  of  Venice,  and  opposed 
many  obstacles  to  the  wishes  of  AH  Pacha,  who 
was  anxious  to  form  a  navy,  and  carry  on  the 
trade  of  his  states  through  his  own  means. 
When,  at  a  later  period,  the  possession  of  the 
towns  and  ports  of  the  coast  allowed  him  to  at- 
tempt the  execution  of  his  project,  he  was 
obliged,  in  order  to  obtain  some  armed  vessels, 
to  avail  himself  of  the  Dulcignots,  the  Moreans, 
and  Hydriots.  *  With  foreign  officers  and  sailora 
it  is  indeed  possible  to  possess  a  certain  number 
of  vessels  navigating  the  seas ;  but  a  state  can 
only  truly  boast  the  possession  of  a  navy  when 
the  national  character  is  congenial  to  it,  and 
its  resources  in  men  exist  within  the  nation  itself 

*  The  ialond  of  Hydra  is  aitustcd  near  the  MUtheni  poiatr 
of  Argolide.  Its  inhabituti  ire  pirMet  much  dreaded  in  the 
Archipelago.— T«. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


Ca&P.ini]         XOE  tOMIAH  IBLAHMi  81 

This  practical  truth  did  not  escape  Ali  Pacha, 
nnce  it  was  its  strong  convictioii  that  made  him 
BO  ardently,  desire  the  possession  of  Corfu  and 
St.  Maura*  and  likewise  caused  him  to  employ 
all  his  intrigues  to  obtain  the  Morea  in  the  person 
of  his  son  Veil. 

The  five  towns  possessed  by  the  Venetians  on 
the  Crreek  continent  were  extremely  useful  in 
favouiing  their  political  conduct*  and  rendering 
themselves  masters  of  the  commerce  of  the 
coast.  These  towns  were  as  follow:  1st,  Bu< 
cintr6*  anciently  called  Buthrotunit  and  still  hy 
the  Greela  Buthrinto.  It  is  situated  to  the  N.  E. 
almost  c^)posite  to  Corfu,  near  a  marsh,  which 
renders  it  extremely  unhealthy ;  but  it  was  not 
^^eby  rendered  less  important  to  the  Vene- 
tians, in  consequence  of  the  facility  of  its  com- 
munications with  Cbimara,  the  valley  of  Argiro* 
Kastro,  and  Delvino.  They  took  great  care  to 
keep  up  tbe£}rtifi(^ons  of  this  place,  and  had 
garrisfMis  always  on  foot  there.  A  small  cutter 
andiored  in  the  harbour  was  sufficient  to  guard 
the  entrance  of  the  channel,  extremely  narrow 
between  Cape  Caragol  and  Point  Bucintr6.  Sd, 
Gomenitzaj  which  has  taken  the  place  of  the 
asident  Gliku-limen.  It  was  an  open  town, 
which  served  as  a  market  to  the  Philates  and 
Paramithians,  whence  die  island  of  Corfu,  in 
great  measure,  derived  its  supplies  of  grain  and 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


oflttA^^  i'^  ?m:^  fotwetly  Gepkyro,  This 
ti»wn,  '#iefe»ded  ^  a  goad  etistJe,  and  sitaWMii 
in  -ai  viPlfy  ^umnaaified  by  alinett  iiiEieoesHbli 
r.orft9i'A*itbe«tft  being  bo  naefel  to  tbe  pwvwiMi- 
itt^  "flf  Corfu  «8  (Aie  preoediRg,  was  »eTerthele» 
©f  infinite  importance,  owing  to  the  ccswrectioM 
ifia  jtHHit^tants  then'did'aHdffd}I^6cmtitrae  tolaeep 
up  iffth  >th«  >p8ramit}iiaBs«  th>e  SauliMs,  and  «lw 
ihfher  in^epeBdefft'ckns  c^tbe  Cas^t^ian  CBi«tia- 
titMis.  Tbis  *as  oise  ■©£  the  prwrii^  seats  rf 
the  iaeurreitfldamlwovetDeHtJB'whidift^atedthe 
Bpifusi  fl«d  ft  •ecure  asylimi  for  Ae  tnemi^  of 
A9i  l^tcha.  4(9),  Prevesa,  a  t«nra  bailt  «&  Hn 
nnns-of the-ancaent  ^c/ts  iNtcopdhf.  This  f4acei 
actrtnnely  flonrisbfBg  tmAer  ^e  'government  of 
the  Vebetians,  inhat  thejbad  a  jHwreAitiH',  aavi 
nwdtuned  a  gwrisen  in  tift  1M,  seCT^d  for  t*e 
purpose  of  dosing  to  the  Turks  slB.  tMi^et  from 
tiie  gidf  t}f  Afta.  Bendes  «he  •chaffncfl  leadfhf 
bito  -Che  gtdf  bdttg  s6  Btorew  that  it  can  be  ^«^ 
fended  by  cannon  t)f  the  -sdiidteBt  feise,  it  is  aa 
general  ^laSlow,  and  ^  deepest  irater  mM 
hmnediafeJy  tippoate  to  Prevesa  ;  so  that  ^ 
vessels,  m&  the  exception  ef  fehi&g-boftts,  are 
ipMiged  to  pass  under  ^e  fert  and  a  few  battery 
standing  at  the  entrance  of  l3ie  -toira.  A^s  IcMig 
n  this  place  was  in  the  hands  of  the  Venetians, 
it  vras  to  Ali  Pa<Aia  one  of  ^  most  seriem  <A^ 
•tacles,  8s  vdl  ai  an  object  «f  regret  and  "vio- 


soiizodbyGoogle 


«ttAt.  ttl.3         V^t  tONtAK  ntAKDlB.  8$ 

lent  hatr^tl.  Hence  his  first  care  in  1T99  ma 
to  get  posiession  of  it,  and  his  vengeance  oeaify 
reduced  the  place  to  ruins.  5th,  Yooitza,  an- 
ciently called  Lionnea.  This  smal]  town,  built 
on  file  southern  ride  of  the  gulf  of  Arta,  stands 
at  the  feot  of  the  mountains  of  Acaniania,  and 
was  the  least  important  of  all  the  Venetian  pos- 
aessions.  Its  relations  were  confined  to  Aeaf- 
nnnia,  a  sav^e  country,  Insecure,  and  covered 
with  forests.  Hence  was  it  considered  in  tto 
other  fig^i  than  as  a  po^t  intended  to  guard  th6 
gulf,  abd  an  anchoring'place  for  the  Venetian 
vessels  denrous  of  passing  into  the  liiner  parts 
of  it. 

The  five  porta  we  have  just  pointed  out,'  ot 
nflicT  the  first  four,  were  the  only  ones  useful 
to  commerce  to  be  net  with  from  Chtmara  as 
fin-  as  l^e  entrance  of  the  gulf  of  Lepanto. 
Those  of  Porto  Pdenno  and  AgitH-Saranda,  si- 
tuated to  the  N.  of  the  Corfu  channel,  havii^ 
no  communication  with  theinteriorof  the  coun- 
tcy,  are  merely  anchoriog-places.  That<tfKe- 
titcba,  where  the  direct  road  fVom  Joannina  ta 
Co^  passes,  tasA  whidi  stands  opposite  to  the 
letter  place,  is  no  other  than  a  strand,  on  the 
liurgin  of  whidh  is  the  han  (inn)  that  bears  thk 
name.  The  small  town  of  KonispoH,  on  which 
the  latta:  han  depends,  is  more  than  a  league 
farther  on,  being  situated  on  the  declivity  of 

O  2 

DolizodbyGoOgle 


64  THE   IONIAN   ISLANDS.         [CHAF.  ttU 

the  mountoms,  but  its  inhabitants  carry  on  no 
land  <^  trade.  The  road  of  Fhanari,  at  a  small 
distance  firom  Farga,  is  large  and  safe,  yet  in 
the  vidnity  round  there  is  not  a  ungle  village. 
The  church  of  St.  Giovanni  di  Fhanari,  the  re- 
mains of  the  ancient  town  of  Critana,  now  also 
in  ruins,  is  the  only  building  to  be  seen  there. 
Under  the  Venetians  this  road  was,  nevertheless, 
much  frequented.  It  was  through  this  channel 
they  communicated  with  the  96uliots,  whose 
country  is  situated  near  the  sources  of  the  river, 
which  discharges  itself  into  the  road }  and  it  was 
here  the  Venetians  brought  the  merchandize, 
arms,  and  ammunition  these  people  stood  in 
need  o£  To  the  south  of  the  gulf  of  Arta,  the 
ports  of  Sinode,  Solion,  Phigo,  Dragomesto},  and 
Petala,  having  no  continental  conununicatirau 
but  with  Acamania,  can  only  be  considered  as 
harbours  of  convenience  for  the  interior  naviga- 
tion of  the  islands. 

This  short  detail  is  sufficient  to  prove  to  the 
reader  of  what  importance  for  the  Venetian 
government  were  the  towns  it  had  been  able  to 
retain  on  the  continent  Occupying  the  only 
outlets  the  commerce  of  the  interior  country 
could  have  to  enter  into  communicatim  with 
the  Adriatic  and  Italy,  this  trade  was  entirely 
left  at  the  disposal  of  the  Venetians.  The  com- 
nand  of  all  these  entrances  :dso  prevented  Uie 
s 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP,  m.^        THE  lOMUH  ISLANDS.  85  . 

Ta^ish  luvy  from  spearing  in  this  quarter, 
where  they  were  unable  to  form  a  station,  or 
even  to  remain,  having  no  harbour  that  afforded 
them  the  necessary  resources.  It  is  to  this 
cause,  in  a  word,  that  the  Venetians  owe  the 
profound  security  the  iidands  enjoyed  whilst 
under  their  dominion,  and  the  absence  of  all 
competitors  in  these  seas. 

It  is  not  merely  in  respect  to  the  destruction 
of  Turkish  trade  in  the  Adriatic  and  Ionian  sea, 
and  the  obstacles  which  Venetian  policy  sought 
to  oppose  to  the  aggrandisement  of  the  power 
of  All  Facha,  that  the  possession  of  these  towns 
was  useful  to  the  Ionian  Islands.  It  moreover 
contributed  to  the  security  and  particular  de- 
fence of  Corfu  and  St.  Maura.  This  is  the  point 
we  shall  next  explain,  in  the  fewest  possible 
words.  The  Seven  Islands  in  general,  and  plir- 
tieularly  the  two  just  named,  do  not,  by  a  large 
deficiency,  furnish  sufficient  grain  and  cattle  &r- 
the  consumption  o£  the  inhabitants.  Hie  dis- 
tance they  were  from  Venice  rendered  the  con- 
veyance thereof  difficult  and  expensive,  parti- 
culu-ly  for  the  latter  article.  To  draw  provi- 
nons  from  the  nearest  part  of  the  Italian  coast 
Was  to  ran  die  nak  of  wanting,  as  well  because 
this  was  a  dependence  on  a  foreign  government, 
as  that  it  w^  also  attended  with  great  difficulties 
ia  case  of  a  maritime  war.    It  vas,  therefore. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


9S  T^^  IONIAN  uLAHu.     ;[oau>.iUf 

more  prudent  to  rely  on  B^i^lie?  &om  thd  ooq. 
tiguous  coast,  particularly  if  they  could  be  ae* 
fured  in  such  a  maimer  as  not  tobe  cut  off  lyf  a 
war  with  Turkey.  This  is  precisely  the  point 
that  was  secured  by  the  occupation  of  the  five 
towns  op  the  main  land,  more  especially  Go* 
inenitza  and  Pargtif  The  almost  tmceaany 
rebellion  of  the  neighbouring  dana,  whom 
the  Venetians,  through  their  agfflitii» .  excited 
whenever  they  wished^  placed'<hem:^;.'ic  con- 
tinual necessity  of  arms  and  unmunitioii,  ior 
which  they  .foruiahed  all  the  proviaiopa  re^ 
quired. 

The  channel  s£  Cor&,  surrounded  by  high 
mountains,;^  not  only  less  subject  to  the  agita- 
tion of  (tornis  fiiau  the  sea  ranging  to  the  W> 
and  N.  of  the  island,  but  it  is  alto  £:e(tueptJy 
exposed  to  absolute  calms,  which  {^event  daval 
forces  employed  in  blockades  from  making  any 
inoyement,  as  long  as  they  cannot  occiqiy  tbQ 
xoad  of  Guvine,  in  the  island  itself.  A  few 
gun-boats  and  flat-bottomed  vessels  wouU  Buffif» 
ti>  keep  open  and  secure  all  conunuuicatitxi8b&> 
p^mn  Corfii  and  the  continent.  It  is  then  that 
BnaiBt[>6  on  the  one  hand,  and  Gomonitta  Bad 
?aigA  on  the  o&er,  would  be  abla»'  without 
4«Bger,  tO'-itirnisb  the  island  with  abunduit  sup- 
plier The  uiuation  itself  a£  these  [riacea,  iuit 
fWS*^  by  a  pt^ul^tioB  4evoted  t^  fbe  Vei^ev 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


C«UPl  imJ|        THB'  l«tHA»  18UMMF  87 

tucHk  sndiriiiich  wUr^warjrsfae'SO'tO'tiiS'piMrci 
•ccupying  the  S^cti  XsUnds  tf  mabildy  pi» 
vcNted  tlwia  froia  beingr  beawgsd,  a»  it  woufal 
haite  been  Fec^uisitB:  to  smflpy  a  Isrfe  force- to 
CDmfflaiid  the  finale  of  the  country  aouaiL  Iha 
latternuans^  besides,  was  not  easy  in  a  aoan^ 
tainotis  and  intersected  country,  whose  isbabi>- 
lants  luideistand  the  mode  of  canying  oa  Guer- 
rHUi  inar&re  better  tihan  any  satiait  in  £un>pe. 
Sudi  ait  eobespriae  aa  this  coidd  net  have,  been 
attenapAed  by  tlie  Turks,  and  laath  lau  ao  b}i 
Alij  Padia^  vahei  has.  nener  boas  able  to*  aob* 
jeek  dtc  IracdeisD^  clans.  Thus  the  VenetiaBS, 
in  seeldog  to  keep  itJie  Pbllots  and  theiir  aif 
lies,  io  3  8t«tie  of  distrust  and .  alonst  coBtb* 
XHttd  war&re  with  tW  Pacha  of  Joannina,.  had 
be^k  atUe  b>  complete  tlie  defence  of  Corfu  by 
their  airafngennentB  on  the:  s»de  of  tb«  Gr«ek 
flonbinent. 

'  The  cfaautKlr  ef  St.  IVfiuiza.  has  an  iacaitvauH 
once  stitt  gneater  tfaab  AaH  e£  Ctnfii.  I^ear  tfaa 
akrand!  of  Pla^w  it  ia  6}xdabik  im  almovtiail  il» 
viabth,  whicb  duaa  not:  essesEl  300  Hmsesi  Thwe 
me  even  na  «>»&  than  scrvtn  or  eight  &et  of 
viita:  io  ibo-  midSeffahaaa^  andi  ttois-  oo^ 
9baatfiBr^tcx80H>vide.  The  wswh  aeekmgtofias 
femu the  TS.  to  the.  St.  •£  t^QiabHid  sce«idiBed  «a 
go  rouod  b^r  the  W.  and.  axmab  heailF  Vf^tit» 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


88  THE  IONIAN   ISLANDS.         [CUAP.  III. 

chani^l  opposite  to  the  town.  It  would  ih^e- 
fore  be  impossible  to  effect  a  blockade  by  sea,  so 
as  to  prevent  communications  with  Acarnania^ 
and  thence  with  Vooitza  and  Frevesa,  whence 
the  island  might  be  supplied  with  provisions. 
For  a  purpose  of  this  nature  it  would  be  neces- 
sary to  occupy  the  positions  of  Flaya  and  St. 
George,  and  this  neither  the  Turks  nor  any  of 
the  other  enemies  of  the  Venetians  were  able 
to  do.  Situated  at  the  foot  of  broken  and  woody 
moimtains,  and  in  an  uncultivated  and  di£Scult 
country,  these  positions  were  always  exposed  to 
the  insults  of  the  Acamanians,  a  brave  people, 
accustomed  to  endure  no  foreign  force  within: 
their  country.  AH  Pacha  would  be  i^nable, 
more  than  any  other,  to  undertake  a  simile  en- 
terprise. Erevesa  prevented  him  ftom  establish- 
^Ij^imself  in  the  plains  where  the  ruins  of  Ac- 
tium  are  situated ;  and  Vonitza  closed  against 
faim  the  only  practicable  road  that  goes  round 
the  gulf  of  Arta,  of  which  it  nearly  ranges  along 
the  margin.  In  1807,  when  he  attempted  to 
make  himself  master  of  St.  Maura,  these  two 
last  difficulties  no  longer  existed  ^  neverthelesa 
the  communications  of  his  camp  at  Playa  were 
frequently  cut  off",  and  the  convoys  could  only 
be  secured  by  strong  detachments.  The  Acar- 
aanians  alone  caused  all  these  difSciilties, 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


«BAP.  m.]         THE   lOHIAK  ISLANDS.  89 

The  first  and  most  principal  fault  committed 
by  the  Russians  when,  in  accord  with  the  Turks, 
they  effected  the  conquest  of  the  Ionian  Islands, 
was  the  surrendiy  of  £oui  of  the  Ave  towns 
above-mentioned.  Even  Parga  ought  also  to 
have  been  delivered  up  to  the  Turks ;  and  it 
was  only  through  the  repeated  prayers  of  its  in- 
habitants, and  their  threats  to  abandon  their 
town,  or  to  bury  themselves  under  its  ruins, 
and  we  might  add,  perhaps,  its  position,  which 
had  prevented  Ali  Pacha  from  attacking  it,  that 
it  escaped  being  separated  from  the  Ionian  Js< 
lands.  In  1 807  the  town  of  Parga  was  again 
exposed  to  the  same  danger.  Ali  Pacha  pre- 
tending that,  in  conformity  to  the  convention  of 
1 800,  this  place  ought  to  have  been  delivered 
up  to  him,  that  it  had  only  been  retained  through 
an  infraction  of  the  treaty,  and  that  France  ^ks 
bound  to  execute  the  engagements  then  entered 
into  with  Russia,  caused  it  to  be  demanded  in  a 
formal  manner  of  the  Governor-general  of  the 
Ionian  Islands.  The  latter,  whose  instructions 
contained  an  injunction  to  temporise  with  the 
Pacha  of  Joannina,  and  to  preserve  harmony 
with  him,  was  staggered  at  so  positive  a  demand, 
trad  on  the  point  of  soliciting  &om  his  govern- 
ment the  necessary  authority  to  effect  the  trans> 
fer,  by  meaas  of  a  report  drawn  up  in  the  very 
sense  of  the  civm  established.    Fortunately  the 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


so  -na  imaMn  wjutnk       [ckav.  lit 

repreteniatioDtof  a  deputation  oS  the  priacipal 
jnliabitaats,  and  tfae  observations  of  seven)  senx 
stble  Tpenooa,  made  him  change  his  oismoat, 
wbm  he  made  a  report  cMiformable  to  the  true 
state  of  things,  and  the  French  govemmettt  re< 
Aised  to  make  good  die  cession. 

.  The  result  of  this  oversight  ccNumitted  by  the 
Buaaian  governmeat  w&s  to  give  Ali  Pacha 
access  to  the  sea-coast,  which  he  had  so  long 
and  ardently  desired.  Hiis  new  poaitkm  enabled 
him  to  surround  the  Souliota,  and  to  make  him* 
gelf  master  of  their  country.  Hitherto  he  has 
made  no  establishment  in  the  road  of  Fhuari, 
but  nothing  prevents  him  from  ad  doing;  and  if 
he  shcmid,  be  will  greatly  incovunode  Parga, 
which  he  will  narrowly  watch ;  and  in  case  of 
war  he  will  greatly  harass  the  eommunicatiom 
from  Corfu  to  Pax6  and  St.  Maura.  As  soon  ai 
he  obtained  possession  of  Bucintr6  be  carried 
his  views  towards  Agioi-Saranda,  whtwe  inha* 
bitants,  upheld  by  the  vicinity  <Hf  the  Chtma- 
riots,  had  hitherto  resisted  his  authority-  TWa 
town  was  cj^tured,  destroyed,  and  thwa  <tf  its 
inhabitants  who  were  aJide  to  escape  Smm.  mast- 
sacre  fled  for  refiige  to  Corfu.  The  above  road, 
situated  infrontof  tfaatofCassopo^iBfieisllMd 
of  Corfu,  was  extremely  uaeful,  parttcular^  on 
account  of  the  fisheries  of  Porto  PaIenno» 
wkuch  are  onl^r  at  a  aatatl  diatoiiiee  ^m  it,    It* 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


eKAP.in.3      THE  lomxs  islands,  n 

DGCupatiooj  conseqiMiitljr,  hy  AM  I^ciia  ii  injo* 
fioKU  to  tbe  commerce  cf^  tbe  SeWn  IsImdSr 
Bec<Hii<  master  of  Agiw-Ssratida,  All  formed  an 
pstat^sbment  in  Porto  Falermo,  and  erected  a 
siaaU  fort  at  the  entrance.  By  this  means  bo 
seized  on  the  fisheries,  and  though  uaable  to 
carry  them  on  himself,  their  produce  was^  ne- 
vertheless, lost  to  Corfu.  Having  thus  got  pos- 
session of  the  whole  coast  to  the  N.  of  Bu- 
ciDtr6,  he  threatens  Chimara,  which  he  embraces 
on  two  sides,  and  where  he  has  already  made 
attempts.  After  establishing  himself  at  Agioi- 
Saranda  and  Porto  Palermo,  Ali  began  to  make 
jnroads  against  the  Pacha  of  Delvinoj  who,  sur* 
rounded  by  his  enemy,  and  debarredfrom  all  com- 
munications with  Corfu,  whose  authorities  had  hi- 
therto lent  him  assistance,  was  unable  to  resist. 
AJi  in  like  manner  would  have  already  made  him- 
self master  of  Margarita  and  Paramithia,  if  the 
French  Governor-general  of  the  Seven  Islands 
had  not  constantly  opposed  the  approach  of  his 
troops  near  Parga.  Although  this  detail  in  a 
giaall  degree  anticipates  events,  and  in  some 
measure  breaks  through  the  plan  the  Author 
had  formed  to  himself,  he  nevertheless  believed 
it  his  duty  to  make  this  small  digression,  serving 
to  prove  that  the  fault  committed  by  Russia 
;n  l&oo  was  one  of  the  priqpjpal  causes  which 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


d8  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.         fcBAP.  m. 

placed  Ali  Pacha  in  a  situation  to  restraiD  and 
almost  to  destroy  the  relations  of  Corfu  vitlr 
the  Greek  continent;  and  that  it  is  only  by 
repairing,  or  at  least  modifying,  this  political 
error  that  it  will  be  possible  to  re-establish. 
them  on  the  footing  on  which  they  ought  to 
stand. 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CHAPTER  IV. 

lUIatumt  of  the  Ionian  lalandt  with  the  Contu 
f^nt  after  the  Fall  of  the  R^ntbHc  of  Venice* 
'  —Alt  Pacha  still  restrains  tkeae  Relations.'^ 
War  with  Russia  enables  him  to  render  them 
nearly  null. — France  would  have  been  able  t» 
re-establish  them  in  1807. 

After  the  faU  of  the  Venetian  republic  had 
placed  the  French  government  in  possession  of 
the  Ionian  Istends,  it  seemed  that  the  harmonj 
in  which  the  latter  government  had  always  lived 
with  the  Ottoman  Forte  would  have  served  to 
give  activity  to  relations  which  the  jealousy  9f 
the  Venetians  had  heretofore  left  in  a  languish- 
ing state.  Several  united  motives  tended  to  pro- 
duce such  a  result,  which  would  have  been  ad- 
vantageous to  both  nations.  The  foundation  of 
the  Cisalpine  republic,  under  the  protection  of 
France,  had  placed  the  whole  of  the  north  of 
Italy  under  the  influraice  of  the  French  cabinet, 
and  also  gave  to  it  a  marked  preponderance  in 
the  a&irs  of  southern  Italy.  France  conse- 
quently  found  herself  pUced  nearer  to  Turkey 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


S4i  TUB  iBHiAS  tstAiatBi      {aat.t^i 

than  she  had  evei'  before  been,  and  Italy  served 
to  her  as  an  intermediate  step  between  her  o?m 
hereditary  possessions  and  her  new  acquisition 
of  the  Ionian  Islands.  This  circumstance  could 
not  feil  again  tp  -  open  to  ber  the  commerce  of 
Greece,  which  she  was  enabled  to  carry  on 
liirough  the  continent  of  Ittiy  during^  all  the 
tinieher«tateof  maritidKwaraiid  maUty  with 
England  prevented  her  £mm  prosecuting -it  by 
sea.  It  is  indeed  tme  that  she  did  not  dtspkise 
of  due  pco't  «f  Venice,  «hich  had  pttaed  into 
the  hands  of  Austria,  nor  of  that  of  Ancoaa, 
which  had  been  retained  by  the  Pope ;  but  those 
of  Goto,  as  fiur  as  the  mouths  of  ^e  Po,>  as  ^reU 
u  of  Ceseoatko  find  Rimini,  were  ^odicleM  M 
ireCeiVft  <he  vessels  used  by  tiie  people  of  Corfnm 
^  Adiia^,  and  might  hav«  served  as  e AtreptftS 
to  the  commerce  of  the  Epirus  and  Albania'. 
A  ktrge  portion  of  the  merchandise  sent  by  tht 
Venotians  into  these  countries  was  the^oddOA 
of  the  manufitctures  belonging  to  the  proi^nices 
united  to  the  Gkalpifle  republic,  particularly  th« 
arms ;  and  tiie  French  manufacturers  who  Bent 
Ihfllr  goods  there  by  the  way  of  MareeiUes  might 
have  ftwwarded"  them  through  Turin,  and  by  the 
course  ef  the  Po>  to  the  sea. 

It  was  not  at  that  time  less  important  to  conn- 
terbaknee  the  attempts  die  Austrian  goveni* 
meiit  migttfrmake,  exiHusively,  to  seize  .obUw 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


ettAP.IT.]         3SG  tONlAW  ISLANDS.  9j 

conrtnoroe  of  d»e  Adriatic  Tfcis,  in  fact,  w&8  by 
no  means  impossible.  Austria  hod  a  great  ad- 
vantage in  the  possessiMi  ef  the  pprts  of  Venice, 
Zftra,  Sebenico,  ;%)aIa»o,  and  Cattaro,  as  wdl 
ss  in  the  ptnsJbifify  of  dispAsing  of  that  of  Ra> 
gnsa,  toother  wi'Hi  the  acquisition  c^  a  large 
extent  of  coast,  wWch  furnished  her  with  a  great 
number  of  vess^  and  good  sailors,  and  placed 
her  in  ea^  communication  with  the  rest  of  the 
Adriatic  shores.  Nevertheless,  obstacles  created 
fcy  the  skwness  of  flie  Austrian  government  to 
dntttge  its  views,  bj  a  naticmal  prejudice,  which 
it  carries  to  a  ridiculons.pitch,  as  well  as  by  a 
tendency  t>f  habit  to  follow  the  wrong  «tep« 
adopted  and  retained  from  die  impulse  given  to 
the  country  by  Maria  Theresa  and  Joseph  11. 
opposed  the  improvement  of  these  real  advan- 
tages. The  ports  of  Ttieste  and  Fiume,  botJi 
iwWMiTenient  and  littie  secure,  had  been  esta* 
blished  at  a  period  when  Austria  could  not  fore- 
«6e  liurt  one  day  she  would  become  possessed  of 
Dalmatia  and  Venice.  Seeking  at  that  time  to 
iollow  upber  projects  on  Albania  and  the  M(H%a, 
^  stood  in  need  of  establishments  which  might 
place  her  in  contact  with  the  Adriatic,  and  in 
maritime  coireipondence  with  Ragusa.  It  was 
this  same  motive  which  had  engaged  'Joseph  II. 
to  lay  the  foundations  of  an  arsenal  for  naval 
coRstroctioa  in  the  "fine  harbour  of  Bucari  and 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


06  THE  IONIAN   ISLANDS^        [CRAP.IV* 

Porto  R^.  These  projects  were  extremely  wise, 
and  the  establishments  were  of  great  utili^,  as 
long  as  they  were  the  only  means  Austria  was 
able  to  employ  to  form  a  navy  for  herself.  But 
when  the  possession  of  Venice,  Dalmati^  and 
Istria  had  rendered  this  power  mistress  of  all 
the  north  of  the  Adriatic  this  utility  ceased. 
Fiume  might  continue  to  be  the  entrepot  of  the 
trade  of  Dalmatia,  notwithstanding  the  danger 
and  difficulties  of  the  navigation  of  theQuamero, 
or  gulf  of  Fiume ;  but  the  commerce  of  Greece 
could  not  be  prevented  from  being  transferred 
from  the  inconvenient  and  unsafe  port  of  Trieste 
to  that  of  Venice.  The  communications  of  the 
latter  place  with  the  hereditary  states  of  Aus- 
trift,  through  Treviso  and  Fonteba,  were  not 
much  longer,  and  equally  as  commodious  as 
those  of  Trieste,  through  Laybach.  A  prefect 
had  been  presented  by  a  citizen  of  Frioul,  Count 
Micheli,  to  render  the  Tagliameoto  navigable 
from  the  mountains  to  the  sea ;  and  this  project, 
which  remained  during  six  years  before  the  ca- 
binet  of  Vienna  without  any  decision,  furnished 
the  means  of  carrying  merchandize,  by  a  water 
conveyance,  from  Venice  as  &r  as  Os(^.  Be- 
udes  these  considerations,  the  port  of  Venice 
united  the  advantage  of  becoming  the  principal 
entrepot  of  the  commerce  of  Ui^er  Italy,  pro* 
vided  only  the  government  lent  the  smallest  aid. 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


CHAE.  IV.]  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  9f 

Nothing  of  all  tht»  was  done.  The  prejadices 
t^  the  cabinet  of  Vienna,  and  the  jealouues  of 
the  Austrians  against  the  Itahans,  whose  supe- 
riority in  all  kinds  of  talent  they  dreaded,  en- 
tirely prevailed.  Venice  was  sacrificed  to 
Trieste ;  her  canalA  were  no  longer  cleansed } 
no  further  care  was  taken  to  repair  the  walls  of 
Palestrina ;  and  this  city,  which  had  comnianded 
the  Adriatic^  and  whose  position  enabled  her  to 
becmne  the  principal  trading  town  of  this  sea, 
in  SHy  years  seemed  destined  to  be  converted 
into  an  uninhabitable  lake. 

The  advantages  these  &ults  of  the  Austriaq 
government  gave  to  France,  in  enabling  her  to 
render  the  possession  of  the  Ionian  Islands  use- 
iul,  was,  perhaps,  felt  at  the  time,  but  the  over- 
sights were  not  remedied.  Different  united 
causes  tended  to  produce  this  effect.  Notwith- 
standing the  good  disposition  evinced  by  AH 
Pacha  in  &vour  of  France,  and  the  professions 
be  had  conveyed  to  Napoleon,  at  that  time 
Commander  in  Chief  of  the  Italian  army,  to 
whom  he  bad  sent  confider^<al  agents  soon  after 
the  treaty  of  Campo  Formic,  he  did  not  the  less 
behold  the  vicinity  of  a  powerful  nation  with  a 
jealous  eye.  The  connections  which  the  French 
government  had  always  maintained  with  the  Otr 
toman  Porte  did  not  appear  favourable  to  his 
views  of  independence.    His  object  in  enter> 


j,=,i,z<,d.vGoogk' 


98  THE  lOKIAM   ISLAHDS.  [CHAV  tV. 

ing  into  correspondence  with  the  Froich  ge- 
neral in  chief,  and  his  oi^r  of  services,  arose 
ttom  no  Mher  motive  than  a  wish  to  gain,  if  be 
possibly  could,  the  confidence  of  the  govern* 
teent  about  to  fake  possession  of  Corfu,  and 
avail  himself  of  the  first  &vourable  oppc«tanity. 
to  take  one  step  forwards  in  the  execution  of  bis 
main  project.  His  end  was  answered.  The  po- 
liteness and  frankness  of  General  Gentilir  the 
flUBt  who  came  to  the  Ionian  Islands,  made  him 
Ml  into  the  snare  prepared  for  him  by  the  de- 
signing Ali.  He  did  not  give  the  French  ge- 
neral time  to  acquire  the  necessary  knowledge 
of  the  ttue  state  of  things,  and  to  learn  the  line 
of  conduct  followed  by  the  government  which 
had  just  ceased,  as  well  as  the  motives  by  which 
Its  measures  had  previously  beea  directed. 
Scarcely  had  the  French  garrison  arrived  at 
Cwfli,  when  Ali  demanded  permisaon  to  trans- 
port his  troops  by  sea  through  the  channel,  for 
the  purpose,  as  he  alleged,  of  reducing  the  towns 
revolted  against  him.  These  towns,  known 
under  the  name  of  Vassiliona-Navitza,  situated 
on  the  other  side  of  tlie  Acroceraunian  motto- 
tains,  which  defend  the  land  approaches,  and 
allied  to  the  Chimariots,  of  whom  they  are 
neighbours,  were  inhabited  by  Greeks,  and  had 
always  been  independent.  The  Venetians  had 
constantly  protected  them  for  that  reason,  as 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


w^  as  because  th^  had  oevQ^r  ^)^^4d  Ali  ?M»A 
tg  have  vends  navigntipg  m  tli^  part  of  tbf 
qoaa^  The  {''repch  geaerajta  vhosci  HHtn^oqa- 
et^oiaed  that  he  wa^  to  favour  J^Uf  ^^eved  luo^ 
on  his  word ;  and  the  latter,  avaiUstg  himself  4f 
£«t«r-d<^)  when  the  iah»bitai»ts  vera  aU  .in 
iiei>  ehuKihea,  and  unapgrelieiHivs  af  any  atr 
taah  ft(m  that  qiwter,  (tajtiejted  (l)«i)a  m^p;, 
tuwte  toww>  masaaiMigd  the  greet«>t  part  ipf 
the  people,  and  diipened  t)ie  rennii^r  into 
Thesssly, 

Unable  to  prevent  the  cornvieroe  vbich  Bq- 
eiatr^  Coinenitm>  ^i  Farga  earned  on  with 
the  Deighbooring  people,  wheat  be  had  not  be«« 
a,Ue  to  suigeeti  tte  applied  hiniaelf  te  leiitrna  it 
in  the  strongcet  winner  powtWei  by  abetmstitc 
^e  furthev  e^Umtm  of  these  relafiwtf  int9  IMt 
own  states,  a»  well  aa  towards  Thessaly.  Th« 
aCate  of  war  vader  wbipH  he  ejontino^Uy  VM 
against  the  Fhjlates,  Sauliota,  and  tlieti  alliea, 
atbrded  him  plausible  pretexts  to  cover  bit 
vie«i%  On  the  ;gulf  of  Arta  he  established  4 
cuatom-houfle,  at  Salagora,  where  the  vessels 
going  to  Artn  were  obliged  to  touch;  and  tbja 
post  also  enabled  hioi  materially  to  harass  the 
trade  of  Prevesa.  At  the  time  of  the  captwe 
of  Malta  and  the  expedition  tp  Egypt,  Ali  soon 
£>resa«  that  Turkey  would  became  part  of  the 
coalition  formbg  gainst  France;  and  thisia- 
h2 

DolizodbvGoOglc 


lOO  THE  lONUN   ISLANDS.         [CHAP.  IV. 

pectation  contributed  still  more  to  restrain  the 
commanications  between  the  Ionian  Islands  and 
Uie  continent.  Soon  afterwards  Corfu  was  in 
&ct  besieged,  and  at  length  iell  into  the  hands 
of  the  Russians  and  Turks. 

Ali  Pacha  at  this  period  at  length  beheld  the  ac- 
complishment of  theoneamong  his  projectswhich 
he  had  most  at  hearty  and  which,  in  his  own  mind, 
was  to  serve  to  promote  his  iuture  plans.  At  first 
under  the  title  of  protection,  and  afterwards  of 
conquest,  the  continental  towns  belonging  to 
the  Venetiuis,  with  the  exception  of  Farga, 
fell  into  his  hands.  This  important  conquest 
successively  made  him  master  of  all  the  coast, 
as  we  have  already  noticed,  and  the  relations  of 
the  Seven  Islands  with  the  continent,  over  which 
he  held  sway,  entirely  depended  on  his  will.  It 
did  not  enter  into  his  views  to  &cilitate  them, 
and  he  obstructed  them  as  much  as  was  in  his 
power.  His  character,  which  impels  him  to  am- 
bitious enterprizes  and  to  command,  and  his 
avarice,  united  to  the  want  of  money,  occasi- 
oned by  the  execution  of  his  projects,  caused 
him  to  commit  vexations,  less  against  those 
whom  he  knew  or  thought  were  possessed  of 
ftinds.  These  two  qualities,  so  extremely  un&. 
vourable  to  trade,  remove  to  a  still  greater  dis- 
tance all  relations  of  this  kind,  founded,  as  they 
fire,  on  reciprocal  confidence.    He  did,  indeed. 


^ 


#;^ 


_  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


CBAP.IV.]         TH£  IONIAN  VOMUm.  101 

establish  &irs  at  Bonila,  and  seemed  to  vish  to 
cpnyert,  Joanmna  into  an  interior  entrepot,  si- 
milar to  those  of  Mavronwo,  near  Grevna,  and 
of  MagaroTO,  near  Monastir ;  but  the  fear  of 
his  extortionate  exactions  always  kept  away  a 
great  number  of  merchants,  and  the  establish- 
ment is  &r  from  being  in  a  flourishing  state* 
The  war  which  some  time  afterwards  broke  out 
between  Russia  and  Turkey  gave  him  a  pretext 
entirely  to  break  with  the  Ionian  government, 
and  to  complete  the  destruction  of  the  towns 
which  might  have  been  able  to  promote  com- 
mercial relations.  I  say  that  this  war  served  him 
as  a,  pretext }  for  if  it  had  accorded  with  his 
views  to  take  no  share  therein,  this  motive  would 
not  have  stopped  him. 

In  1S07,  when  the  Ionian  Islands  again  passed 
under  the  protection  of  France,  it  seemed  as  if 
the  most  extensive  relations  were  about  to  be 
established  with  Ali  Pacha.  The  latter  formed 
a  close  connection  with  France ;  he  had  de> 
manded  and  obtained  from  her  succours  against 
the  Russians ;  and  the  removal  of  the  latter, 
who  appeared  to  have  inspired  him  with  such 
lively  fears,  must  have  left  him  at  ease,  since 
.tranquillity  was  restored..  This,  however,  was 
by  no  means  the  case.  In  thus  apparently  bind- 
ing himself  in  a  siqcere  manner  to  the  interests 
of  the  Frencl^  empire,  and  taking  an  activepart 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


1(^  Vttt  MiTUir  iSLAifM.      la^t^tt^ 

lb  ihe  Itostffltfbs  Sghibst  Ae  buAiain,  lue  iru  ac< 
tAat«d  by  s'ftdottdbry  vitva,  which  #e  MiaH  hcw- 
'Aftfer  explain,  «4to9e  refdizatkHi  fae'eOnsiaereitM 
Mcttre,  towing  totheim^oiftattceb^fRlagihed  he 
|)osse9sed  in  the  ijuai^el  df  the  Xwo  etnpii^iL 
*niese  views  were  however  IHstl^ted,  and  ft  w» 
■with  difficulty  he  disguised  His  ch^ria,  which 
%nrst  forth  in  « thousand  chicsnetite  detrifnental 
^  the  Tonian  laluida,  and  finaHy  htoke  down  sffl 
Telations  with  them. 

It  would  have  been  p»ss?b1e,  iSther  by  flatter- 
ing him  with  promised,  or  by  6ireatening  to  pro- 
'tect  his  enemies,  and  exciting  idfterior  rftiitn^ 
'agsfinst  hOnn,  to  have  ohUged%im  to  d^seftil^ 
*i»a'ffink  at  the  commerce  of  Corfiii  but  the 
attention  of  the  Emperor  ^ai^eicin  trss  lit  that 
■time  entirely  dfrerfed  Wbfti  this  oligect  The 
^sr  which  stBl  coritinued  wiA  England,  and  the 
presence  of  the  naval  forces  "ctTflils  powftr  te  the 
Ionian  sea  rendered  the  cottmuhidatSoiH  of  Uf^ 
Sttveti  Islands  extfemely  dlffieatt,  '«veft  whh  ^the 
moist  contiguous  ^(art  (^  the  Italistn  cdatrt.  Bfr. 
^des,  the  acquisition  of  Crmtia  having  placed 
Napoleon  in  possesion  6f 'flie  citttom-house  6f 
1i.o8tatnit2a>  one  of  the  entrepots  of  ■Q&nmn 
commerce,  he  «ought  to  cofiveft  it  into  fiws 
principal  entrepot  of  that  of  Italy  and  IFrKnce ; 
Itnd  all  the  caravans  'teKHng^fioni  Constanttno^e 
hy  f  hUipopoU  'and  Sophk,  as  wdl  as  those  df 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


0«Af.I?.]        me  lOHIAK  ULANM.  103 

Mftcedoni*  by  Sc(^  took  the  direction  of  this 
point. 

Nev«rtMess,  the  geograpbic«U  position  of  the 
Ionian  Islands  is  extremely  favourable  to  their 
being  ftirmed  into  the  commoD  centre  of  tihe 
comtnerce  of  Albania,  of  a  part  of  Thessalj,  ud 
of  Macedonia,  as  well  as  of  the  Epirus  and  the 
Morea.  They  stretch  along  Uie  vhole  of  the 
western  coatt  of  Greece,  froin  the  entranoe  of 
tb«  Adriatic  sea  as  fiu-  as  Ofqxisite  to  Cape  Mdio, 
and  are  situated  in  front  of  the  avenues  of  aU 
the  great  communicaticHU  between  the  interior 
of  the  Ottoaun  Em^re  and  this  coast.  Since 
Venice  has  become  almost  a  neglected  cttj  of  a 
continent^  power*  instead  of  bdng  the  ci^iital 
of  a  trading  repubUc,  Cwfu  may  easily  take  its 
place  with  regard  to  Italy,  and  seize  on  the 
commerce  ^hieh  the  other  nations  of  Ennqic 
came  to  carry  on  ibr  their  ovn  account  in  her 
-ports. 

Jn  establisbiqg,  by  means  of  the  system  we 
shiJl  hereafter  pmnt  out,  tiie  communicatioiis  of 
Coifti  with  the  Epirus  on  the  .most  advantage- 
ous fi>otiog  possitde,  and  in  such  a  manner  ^at 
they  cannot  be  intercepted  throi^h  the  c^[nicB 
^  All  Pacbaj  it  would  be  easy  to  draw  to  CotSi 
the  commerce  of  the  neighbouring  provinces. 
The  fa^l  of  Elbassan,  Mavrmioro,  Hafanwo, 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


104  THE  lOHIAH  ISLANDS.         [CHAP.  IT. 

and  of  Thessaly,  would  become  for  Corfu  ao 
many  steps  on  which  the  merchants  of  the  latter 
place  might  rest  the  basis  of  a  trade  which 
every  day  would  be  rendered  more  important. 
The  direct  and  easy  commuDications  for  the  ca- 
ravans travelling  through  Bucintr6,  Keracha, 
and  Arta  with  the  points  above  named  would 
soon  make  the  commodities  of  the  interior  flow 
in  on  Corfu,  and  would  spread  in  the  Greek 
provinces  the  merchandize  deposited  in  the 
warehouses  of  this  island.  Even  if  that  put 
of  Tfaessaly  and  Macedonia,  which  does  not 
depend  on  AH  Pacha,  was  to  continue  to  com- 
municate with  Salonica,  Volo,  and  Zeitoun,  it 
is  not  the  less  certain  that  the  commerce  of  Al- 
bania, of  the  whole  of  the  states  of  Ali  Pacha, 
and  the  Sandgiaks  of  Ochrida,  of  Monastir,  and 
Acamania  would  take  the  road  to  Corfu.  The 
same  would  happen  to  Zante  and  Cephalonia, 
with  regard  to  the  Morea  and  the  Sandgiak  of 
Lepanto.  The  ports  of  Anatolia  and  Mesa- 
longi,  on  the  coast  of  Roumelia,  those  of  Pa- 
tras  and  Arcadia,  as  well  as  the  harbour  of 
Gaatouni,  the  only  ones  having  easy  com- 
munications with  the  interior  of  the  Morea, 
are  opposite,  and  near  to  the  above  two 
islands. 
Hoijpver,  in  order  to  convey  a  clear  and 


_  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


ISAF.  2V.]         THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  lOS 

correct  idea  of  the  nature  of  the  relations  it  is 
{Mssible  to  establish  between  the  Ionian  Islands 
and  Greece,  their  importance  to  the  said  islands; 
as  well  as  of  the  advantages  the  protectin|t 
power  may  derive  therefrom,  ami  may  also 
confer  on  the  Greek  lonians,  the  Audior  con. 
ceives  it  useful,  and  even  necessary,  to  make 
the  southern  continent  of  Greece  known  to  his 
readers.  The  provinces  of  which  it  is  com- 
posed are  those  which  are  almost  in  immediate 
contact  with  the  Ionian  republic,  and  which, 
as  we  have  just  pointed  out,  are  susceptible  of 
easily  entering  into  extensive  relations  with  it. 
Consequently,  before  we  proceed  to  describe 
their  commerce,  and  what  this'  might  hereafter 
be  made,  the  following  chapters  shall  be  de* 
voted  to  a  geographical  and  topographical  de- 
scription of  the  Greek  cohttnental  provinces, 
their  divisions,  and  present  form  of  govern- 
ment. Some  details  will  also  therein  be  found 
respecting  the  famous  AH  Pacha,  of  Joannina ; 
the  political  situation  of  bis  states  ;  the  causes 
and  means  of  his  rise  and  aggrandizement  j  and 
also  his  views  with  regard  to  the  Ionian  Islands ; 
details  which,  it  is  hoped,  will  not  be  devoid 
of  interest  to  the  reader.  The  personal  rela- 
tions the  Author  has  had  with  this  Pacha,  the 
missions  he  has  friliilled  at  Joapntna,  and  the 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


106  THE   IONIAN   ISLANDS.         ^CHAP.ST. 

ibfonniition  lie  has  been  able  to  effect  oo  the 
spot,  faavd  enabled  him  to  satisfy  public  cu- 
riosity respecting  this  extraordinary  man,  and 
to  give  his  opinion  on  certain  points  which 
perhaps  have  hitherto  appeared  dubious,  ware 
at  least  not  sufficiraitlj  known. 


^laiiizod  by  Google- 


CHAPTER  V. 

Geographical  Description  of  the  States  vf  Ali 
Packa.-^Origin  of  the  Aibaniatis.-~^Sandgiaks 
'  of  Delvino  and  Avlona. — Berat  and  Avlona. 
— Chimara. — Delvino. — Philates. — Marga- 
riti,  —Paramithia.—SouUots. —  Argiro-Kas- 
tro. — Sandgiak  of  Joannina,  —  Klissoura. — 
Premti. — Zagoria. — Liapts.— P  acholics  of Jo^ 
annina  and  of  Arta. — Sandgiaks  ff  Ochrida 
and  Kapudan-Packa. — Monastir. — Castoria. 
^^-Grevno.-'SarigoL — Servitza. — Sandgiak  of 
Trikala.  — Larissa. — Plalamona. — Alassona. 
— Pharsalia* — Volo. — Zeitoun. — Modunish, 

X  H£  provinces  of  which  we  are  ahout  to  pre- 
sent a  geographical  description  are  known  in 
modern  geography  under  the  names  of  Albania, 
!^irus,Thesa^y>Livadia,uidMorea;  to  which 
we  shidl  add  part  of  Macedonia,  in  consequence 
tX  the  Bttle-known  cantcms  of  Monastir,  Cas- 
toria, and  Grevna.  Notwithstanding  this  divi- 
sion is  not  acknowledged  by  the  Turks,  who,  in 
the  Ottoman  empire,  make  use  of  no  other  than 
^n  Ifaose  of  Sandgiaks  and  Beglierbeyliks,  * 

*  Sandgiak  it  tbe  title  given  in  the  Turkisli  deacriptionfl  of 
Ae  Ottomra  empire  to  the  provincial  governon,  trhom  we  ge- 

DolizodbyGoOgle 


108  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  [CHAP.T. 

such  as  are  laid  down  by  Hadgi  Chal£i  in  his  de- 
scription of  the  provinces  of  Roumelia  and 
Bosnia,  we  have  nevertheless  conceived  it  our 
duty  to  preserve  the  above  division,  consecrated 
by  habit,  and  adopted  by  all  modern  geogra- 
phers. Our  sketch  ^U,  however,  mention  the 
Sandgiaks  of  which  each  province  is  composed, 
as  well  as  the  administrative  distribution  esta- 
Wished  by  the  Turks.  To  render  the  whole 
more  complete,  and  give  it  additional  interest, 
care  has  been  taken  to  convey  some  idea  of  the 
ancient  geography  of  the  country,  brought 
down  as  much  as  possible  to  the  present  time. 

We  shall  first  direct  our  attention  to  Albania. 
This  province,  whose  appellation  goes  no  fiur- 

oentlly  call  Pachas.  Beglierbey  signifies  a  general  mUitary 
governor,  and  Beglierbeylik  is  the  district  under  his  command. 
At  present  the  governors  of  large  territories,  who  are  pacha* 
with  three  tails,  assume  the  title  of  vizir ;  and  the  beys,  chieft 
of  districts  and  towns,  are  called  Sandgiaks;  the  same  as  the 
jurisdiction  over  which  they  preside.  The  pachas  are  again 
divided  iota  three  classes,  which  are  distinguished,  by  the 
number  of  horse-tails  carried  before  them  on  occasions  of  ce- 
remony, in  the  style  of  standards,  or  fasces,  as  «gns  of  their 
rank  and  command.  This  custom  must  be  derived  from  the 
Tartars,  and  denotes  the  origin  of  the  Turks.  Tlie  pachas 
wiUi  three  tails,  or  vizirs,  are  however  equally  considered  as 
belonging  to  the  class  of  the  gnmd  officers.  Alt  Fach«  has 
thirteen  horse-tails  carried  before  him  in  all  great  procesuons* 
representing  the  various  dignities  he  holds.— Tit. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP,  v.]  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  109 

ther  back  than  the  time  of  Scanderbeg,  being 
formed  out  of  several  of  the  neighbouring  ones, 
we  shall  endeavour  to  convey  an  accurate  idea 
of  the  origin  of  the  different  people  now  known 
by  the  name  of  Albanians,  and  of  the  manner 
in  whicji  they  were  united  and  formed  into  a 
distinct  nation  of  Greeks  and  Ottomans.  In 
more  remote  times,  that  is  previous  to  the  esta* 
blishment  of  the  kingdom  of  Macedonia,  Illyria 
extended  along  the  whole  of  the  Adriatic  coast, 
as  far  as  beyond  Aviona,  and  to  the  foot  of  the 
Ai^roceraunian  mountains ;  comprising,  in  her 
southern  part,  the  valley  of  Vojutza,  as  far  as 
Klissoura.  Her  eastern  frontiers  were  formed 
by  tbe  sources  of  the  Kavroni,  towards  Frespa, 
and  followed,  «s  far  as  Scopia,  the  chain  ^f 
mountains  inclosing  the  Drino,  which  separated 
her  from  Macedonia.  The  southern  people  of 
Illyria,  that  is,  those  who  now  constitute  the 
pachalics  of  Ochridaand  Berat,  and  part  of  that 
of  Scutari,  remained  in  a  permanent  state  of 
nar&re  with  the  6rst  kings  of  Macedonia.  The 
success  of  these  wars  was  varied,  and  the  advan- 
tages frequently  reciprocal,  till  the  reign  of 
Philip  11.,  father  of  Alexander  the  Great.  This 
sovereign,  the  best  general  and  the  greatest  po- 
litician of  hisL  age,  united  his  whole  efforts 
Against  the  Illyrians,  and  obtained  such  great 


^laiiizodbvGoogle' 


110  TBI   IONIAN   ISLANDS.  [CHAP.Tt 

success  over  them  that  he  sul^ected  all  the 
people  situated  between  the  Acrocerauniim 
mountains  and  the  Drino,  as  far  as  the  mouth  of 
this  river,  and  annexed  their  country  to  his 
kingdom. 

These  provinces  formed  part  of  the  kingdom 
of  Macedonia  till  the  defeat  and  death  of  Feis 
seus*  vhen  Macedonia  being  r&luced  into  a 
Boman  province,  and  divided  into  four  pre&c* 
turcB,  or  regions,  the  Ulyrlan  provinces  alluded 
to  then  constituted  the  fourth.  Afterwards, 
under  the  successors  of  Conatantine,  a  new  ^e^ 
partition  of  the  Romui  empire  into  prrfectures 
having  taken  place,  these  provinces  formed  the 
prefecture  called  Epirut  Novtts,  and  part  of  the 
Prafectura  Pr^evalitanay  which  nearly  correEh 
ponded  to  the  present  paehalic  of  Scutari,  This 
new  denomination  serves  to  explain  why  Scan- 
derbeg,  bom  in  the  Clyrian  provinces,  assumed 
the  title  of  Prince  of  Epirua. 

With  regard  to  the  Epirus  proper,  called  so 
from  the  Greek  name  "Hwii^ac,  which  signifies 
continent,  this  province,  whieh  comprehended 
the  paohalics  of  Delvino,  Joannina,  Argiro* 
Kastro,  Arta,  as  well  ae  the  country  of  the  Chi- 
mariots,  anciently  extended  along  the  sea-coast 
from  C^pe  Lenguella,  as  far  as  the  entrance  a£ 
the  gulf  of  Arta.    To  the  east  it  comprised  the 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CKAf.T.j  TBS   IONIAN  IBLAKDS.  Ill 

sources  of  the  Aeheiousy  or  Aspro'Potamo,  aad 
vas  separated  fcom  Macedonia  by  the  chain  of 
the  Fiodus.  Under  the  successors  of  Alexander 
the  country  of  the  Felagonians,  that  is,  the 
ui^er  valley  of  the  river  Vojutza,  was  united  to 
Macedonia,  and  under  the  Romans  formed  part 
of  the  third  region  of  this  kingdom.  At  the 
taking  of  Ctmstantinople  by  the  princes  engaged 
in  the  Holy  War,  Michael  Angelos,  a  relatioa 
of  the  Greek  emperor,  took  refuge  in  the  Epinis, 
and  having  seized  on  this  province  and  EtoSa, 
he  made  himself  th^r  sovereign,  under  the  title 
of  deq>ot.  His  brother  Thomas  succeeded  to 
him,  and  having  aggrandized  his  dominions,  a»* 
sumed  even  the  title  of  Emperor,  and  left  his 
crown  to  his  descendants.  But  at  the  death  of 
Charles,  the  last  of  his  legitimate  successors, 
his  natural  children,  who  endeavoured  to  suc- 
ceed him,  were  deposed  by  Sultan  Morad,  or 
Amurat  II.,  who  annexed  the  Epinis  to  his  do- 
minions. 

Some  time  ailerwards  the  &mily  of  the  Cas- 
friotti,  who  possessed  the  lordship  of  Krcga, 
which  appears  to  have  been  the  Castrum  Ica- 
num  of  the  ancients,  began  to  rise,  and  asserted 
its  pretensions,  true  or  supposed,  to  the  princi- 
pality of  the  Epirus.  George  Castriotti,  sur- 
Bamed  Scanderbeg,  the  most  celebrated  ^  then 
tilf  not  only  seized  upon  the  whole  of  the  IUy« 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


lis  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  [cHAP.  T. 

nan  provinces  which  bad  formerly  composed  the 
Fravalitanian  pr^ecture,  as  well  as  New  Epirus^ 
including  the  country  of  the  Dardanians,  then 
dwelling  in  the  present  district  of  Frisrenda^  but 
be  likewise  united  to  his  states  part  of  the  an- 
cient Epirus.  His  dominions  extended  along^ 
the  sea-coast  from  the  river  Bojana  and  lake. 
Schiabak,  which  separated  him  from  the  duchy 
of  Zenta,  the  remains  of  the  empire  of  Servia, 
as  &r  as  the  mouth  of  the  Thyamis,  in  front  of 
the  island  of  Corfu.  Inland  in  the  Epirus  he 
reached  as  &r  as  Mount  Imolika,  and  took  in 
the  courses  of  the  Black  and  White  Brino.: 
A&er  his  death  the  Venetians  for  some  time  pos- 
sessed part  of  his  inheritance,  but  they  were  ex- 
pelled therefrom  by  the  Ottoman  emperors.  Al- 
though George  Castriotti  had  assumed  the  title 
of  prince  of  Epirus,  owing  to  his  having  availed 
himself  of  the  Albanians  *  for  his  conquests, 
who  were  in  reality  the  subjects  belonging  to 
his  family,  the  name  of  Albania  prevailed,  as 
the  designation  of  the  country  over  which  he 
afterwards  extended  his  dominion,  and  which 
from  that  time  has  remained  separated  by  its 

*  The  subjects  of  t!ie  family  of  Castriotti  were  the  people 
mentioned  in  ancieot  ge(^raphy  under  the  name  of  Albani, 
anil  who  at  present  ore  called  Mercditi,  and  are  dependent  od 
the  Pacha  of  Scutari,  tfaoi^  they  live  in  almost  a  atate  of  in- 
ilepeodence.    Tbey  have  retained  their  ancaeat  bravery-r— Tx, 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


H^^HiWi  Ar^tBit  add  Iu)gH«ge,  ii<m  ffie  otba 
1fS9p^  of  Gi:()^ce.  T)ie  name  of  Aibaoians, 
^eo  to  th^ne  peo[de,  13  nevertheless  denveA 
^(HB  ^th»^  j^iapiiierlf  tp^af^e^  to  liie  iDhabitutB 
«f  tfa^  4i9tn!C^  of  Kroja,  Tyrano,  and  Duka^ 
ffBQi  Md  if^icb  -the  GxR^ta,  -vho  £aU  Uien 
A^j^^flSiffti!)  bfivie  preserved  to  diem ;  for  is 
^t\T  9WQ  language  \)d^  st^e  tiieauelvei  Ar» 
nautes. 

Tiie,a{>tttibeni  part  of  Albania,  the  next  we 
ii^9S>  proceed  to  describe  geographically,  and 
which  entera  into  the  plan  of  thk  work,  owing 
%o  its  relatioEQS  wi&  the  Ionian  Islands,  in  the 
Geography  of  Hadgi  Chal&  comprehends  the 
Sftpdgiaks  of  Deilvino,  Avlona,  ^d  the  countrf 
of  the  .Quraa^otB.  His  desciip^on  is  as  ibl* 
laws  :-r- 

7}ie:Saodgiak.of  DelcBiia,  or  Delvuo,  Jioldf 
tibe  iedlowing  jurisdiotions':  Deivino,  a  fortiws 
four  JiouEs  *  distance  &oni  the  sea,  CJ4>tuced  li/ 
SMltftn.Suleimui  in  the  yqarof  tiie  Hegira  ftM, 
(;l^39):  Aidunat,  or  the  district  of  Tziamouri, 
pf  which  Philates  }?  the  capital :  Marasak,  or 
Jtfwganti,  to.thelir.:Of  ,Barga;:  Hapv^bcfa,  on 
ibe.aea-side,  between  Delvino  and  Avlona,  oot* 
isspoodi^g  to  >Uie  -oanUm  <£  Cfaimara.    IThc 

*  !(n  Turkey  the  general  mode  oF  compuUng  fUitances  it 
by  hours  of  traTelling ;  one  hour  corresponding  to  three  geo^ 
gwyhiotl  Boileiy  or  tbe-twendeth  part  of  a  degTee.-^TB." 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


114  THE  lOKlAN   ISLANDS.  [CHAP.  T. 

Sandgiak  ^  Avlona  contains  the  jurisdiction 
of  Avlona,  which  is  the  capital.  3uItaD  Ma- 
homet took  possession  of  this  place  in  the  yen 
■883  of  the  H^ra,  (1472.)  Bajazet  lost  it 
«gainj  and  it  vas  only  in  15SS  that  Soliman  re- 
captured it  from  the  Venetians.  Also  Mesakia, 
on  the  Kavroiii.  Iskarpar,  in  the  mountains 
between  Berat  and  Tepeleni.  Depedelen,  or 
Tepeleni,  a  fi>rt  taken  by  the  Ottomans  in  148^. 
Firimedi»  or  Fremiti.  Pc^onia,  idiere  a  &ir  is 
faeld,  and  which  is  situated  in  the  mountains  be- 
tween Ostanitza  and  Agiro<Kastro.  Ergir- 
Kastri,  or  Argtro-Kastro.  Arnaut-Belgrad,  or 
Berat. 

This  division,  exact  at  the  period  when  the 
work  of  Hadgi  Cbal&  was  composed,  now  no 
longer  exists.  The  aggrandizement  of  Ali 
Pacha,  and  the  manner  in  which  this  has  been 
effected,  gave  rise  to  changes  which  have  com- 
pletely altered  the  aspect  (^things.  The  Sand- 
giak o£  Delvino  has  passed  into  his  hands,  as 
well  as  the  jurisdictions  of  Avlona,  Tepeleni, 
Premiti,  Pogonia,  and  Argiro-Kastro ;  whilst 
those  of  Me£akia,  Iskarpar,  and  Berat  have  been 
united  to  the  government  of  Ibrahim,  Facba  of 
Berat.  It  will  therefore  be  necessary  on  this 
occasion  to  abide  by  the  new  distributive  order. 

The  dismemberments  of  the  Sandgiak  of  Av- 
lona, which  at  present  <;onstitute  part  of  die 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CHAP,  v.]  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  115 

pachalic  of  Berat,  as  well  as  thfe  particular  dis- 
trict of  this  city,  formerly  consisted  of  two  dif- 
ferent people,  viz.  the  Eordeta  and  the  Tau- 
idntii.  Tlie  first,  who  inhabited  the  .upper  part 
of  the  valley  of  the  river  Aptus,  now  called 
Kavroni,  had  for  their  principal  towns  Octor 
lophe,  modemly  called  Noscopoli,  situated  on 
the  road  from  Berat  to  Salonica ;  Daulia,  now 
Desnitza,  a  small  town  placed  on  the  northern 
sidfe  of  Mount  Samarino ;  Eordea,  which  ap- 
pears to  have  been  replaced  by  Berat ;  and  Da- 
canoy  situated  between  the  two  former,  and  of 
which  no  vestiges  now  remain.  The  Taulan- 
tians  dwelt  along  the  sea-coast,  between  the 
mouths  of  the  Kavnmi  and  the  river  AotiSy  now 
called  the  Vojutza,  Their  capital  was  Apollonian 
a  Greek  cdony,  and  celebrated  in  history  for 
having  been  the  first  town  of  Greece  that  en- 
tered into  alliance  with  the  Romans,  and. was 
for  a  long  time  one  of  the  principal  entrepots 
of  the  trade  carried  on  between  Greece  and 
Ital^.  It  is  now  a  small  town,  called  Folina,  si- 
tuated at  about  three  hours  distance  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Vojutza,  on  the  right  bank  of  this 
river.  The  village  of  Dragot,  at  tlie  entrance 
of  the  Vojutza,  has  taken  the  place  of  port  Nym- 
pkeum  of  the  Apollonians,  and  the  village  of 
Pyrgo  Occupies  the  place  of  Asparagum.  The 
other  places  indicated  by  the  aneient  itinerariei 

IS 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


lis  rax  uanxa  OLAXSi*       [caaf.v; 

A^bebig  intlie  vidDity  of  AfollMiia  csui  iaSf 
bfe  determined  by  tbe  distances  lOid  t^e  'Aipee* 
tibn  of  the  comitiuoications  still  existii^,  nlno* 
•II  traces  of  antiqui^  hare  been  destroyed  in 
this  quarts.  Tbus  Stephana,  or  Ste^tOttpoHt, 
must  be  iSbephani,  on  the  Vqutza.  This  part 
<^  tlie  piacbalic  <tf  Berat »  extrefidy  wild  and 
ItiouQtsinous ;  the  borden  tmly  of  theXftnoni 
below  Berat  presenting  plains  «f  some  extent 
The  district  of  Avlona,  the  only  remains  of  t 
Sandgiak  formerly  powerful,  but  now  under  lltt 
dominion  of  Ali  Pacha,  is  the  ancieat  OrtsHt. 
Anion,  the  principal  town  of  this  country,  was; 
under  the  Romans,  the  second  poiift  oi  ceim- 
tnuhicetion  between  Italy  and  Greece.  The 
vessels  sailing  from  Otranto  came  to  unload  at 
diis  port,  to  which  it  stood  in  nearly  a  direct 
&e,  as  that  of  Apolldiia  was  opposite  to  Brin- 
disi.  The  great  communications  of  these  two 
towns  with  the  into-ior  of  Greece  passed  through 
Lyckmdus,  DOW  Ochrida,  or  through  Ntaipofy 
and  Lepanto.  On  the  gulf  of  AvIeAia  the«e 
were  formerly  three  other  towns,  at  present^in 
ruins.  These  were  Ortcum,  now  Ericho,  si- 
tuated at  the  bottom  of  an  extremdy  commo- 
dious bay,  where  the  Turkish  vessels  generally 
come  in  search  of  fresh  water ;  and  it  was  here 
that  Cesar  landed  when  he  escaped  from  the 
vigilance  of  Potnpey's  admirids.  ByiiUfrntaaiiei 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


lKtv«es  AvIOd  and  Oricumi  «t  the  ibot  of  tb<t 
mountain  of  Kanina.  An^mtia,  eadFcIy  d<h 
jrtrojed,  of  wfakh  oo  otber  portion  can  be  «?* 
ai^td  than  that  of  tbe  preient  Porto  ]^agui«9, 
la  the  interior  the  country  of  Qrest^  ^teiida4 
»■  fir  as  the  dofilcs  <^  j^iioura,  and  coaie< 
fiMQtlj  comprehended  the  cwton  of  Tepeleiti. 
This  SBwU  town  ynar  buflfc  out  of  the  ruin#  of 
the  ancient  Omphtihtm,  the  i^noinfi  of  wl^ 
are  atill  to  be  aeen  to  the  right  of  tb^  V(^Dtza, 
pear  Lowati  The  4fnaU  town  of  Tepelenl» 
ooniietiiig  «f  about  4Q0  houses  badly  con* 
-ptructed,  is  wrrotinded  by  walls,  and  has  » 
itrong  cwtlci  in  which  AU  Pacha  keeps  a  great 
part  of  his  treaivrff.  Jt  wh  there  (dso  that  he 
vaa  bom.  Bidov  Teptieni,  on  the  same  riverj 
ia  the  «naU  town  of  Kumiiims,  which  ji  de» 
pendent  oq  Tep^eni»  and  stends  in  the  place  i^ 
Uie  ancient  Jmgtrin,  in^cated  in  the  map  of 
I^tiiiger*  All  the  district  of  Avlooa  is  cov«re4 
with  fai|^  and  extremely  wooded  mountains, 
vhicfa,  joined  to  the  cbaracter  of  the  inhabi- 
Ceati.  render  the  passage  through  it  dangerous, 
even  for  the  people  of  the  country.  The  canton 
of  Chiroara,  stretching  along  the  sea-eide,  and 
iriucfa,  by  paying  an  annual  tribute  of  thirty 
paras,  eqpal  to  as  many  French  sous,  per  headi 
im  maintained  itself  independent  of  the  Otto> 
mmwsixpi  and  its  inhabitants  do  not  suSffr 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


118  THE  IONIAN  ISLAHDS.  [cHAP.  V. 

any  Musselmans  among  them.  It  is  the  country 
of  the  ancient  Chaonians,  companions  in  the 
victories  of  Pjrrhus,  and  reckoned  among  the 
bravest  soldiers  of  his  army.  Their  principal 
settlements  at  present  are»  Drimades,  ntuated 
a  league  from  the  sea,  on  the  river  of  Mount 
Chimara,  or  the  Acroceraunian  mountains,  and 
near  the  ruins  of  the  Roman  road  which  led 
from  Avion  to  Athens,  through  Butkrotum,  Ni- 
copolis,  and  Naupactus.  These  ruins  are  called 
Strata-bianca.  Vouno,  built  on  a  cragged  rockj 
the  foot  of  which  is  washed  by  the  sea.  Ghi- 
mara,  placed  on  the  back  of  a  hill  well  culti- 
vated, where  the  ancient  CAtmara  stood.  The 
small  town  of  Dukatis,  the  chief  place  of  a 
canton  of  that  name,  andinhabited  by  Turkish 
shepherds  of  a  savage  and  barbarous  race,  has 
no  relations  whatever  with  Chimara.  Dukatn 
appears  to  be  the  spot  pointed  out  in  the  Peu- 
teugerian  map  under  the  name  of  Acrocerau- 
nium.  On  the  coast  of  Chaonia  Aornus  was  to 
be  met  with,  which  was  first  replaced  by  a  vil- 
lage, and  afterwards  by  a  chapel '  and  pilgrimage 

*  The  chapel  of  St.  Theodore  is  built  at  the  foot  of  a  pet' 
|>enilicular  rock.  The  walls  are  covered  with  inscriptiona, 
some  of  (hem  belouging  to  tombs  hollowed  ioto  the  solid  rock. 
Among  those  the  traveller  may  notice  is  one  that  relates  a 
singular  anecdote,  A  captain  of  a  merchant  vessel  belonging 
to  the  Greek  islands  of  the  Archipelago  caused  his  reniaina  t« 


Doli^odbyGoOgle 


CBAP.V.]  THE  lONIAK  ISLANDS.  119 

ia  honour  of  St.  Ilieodore,  at  the  bottom  of  the 
bay  or  Skaloma  of  this  name.  Falaste,  whose 
ruins  most  probably  are  those  found  in  the  bay, 
which  serves  as  a  port  to'the  small  town  of  Dri- 
oiades.  Panonma  Partus,  now  called  Porto 
Palermo,  a  large  roadstead,  at  the  bottom  of 
which  is  a  small  island  covered  with  ruins/-aDd 
joined  to  the  continent  by  a  pier.  .  Between 
Porto  Palermo  and  Chimara  is  a  fountain  ex* 
tremely  abundant,  and  much  frequented,  which 
has  retained  its  ancient  name  of  ^gua  Regia; 
Hao  Phoiice,  most  probably  Sopot6.  Onches' 
mm  Partus  corresponds,  to  the  port  of  Agioi- 
Saranda.  Finally,  Cassiepeus  Partus,  distinct 
fi:om  the  Casiiope  of  Corfii,  is  a  de^  bay  near 

be  bnrtigfat  to  one  of  dtese  tombs,-  wbieh  he  had  prerioual; 
prei»i«d.  The  Bepidcfaral  uuct^ob,  engraved  onder  his  own 
eyet,  in  the  Greek  language,  but  Jn  Syriac  characters,  in  sub- 
stance contained  this  notice,  "  that  any  one  of  his  country- 
men sufficiently  versed  in  languages  to  read  the  present  in-  ' 
scriptiDn  was  to  remore  the  stone*  when  in  the  tomb  he  would 
find  two  hundred  seqnins  destined  for  him."  The  inscripdoa 
remaioed  long  usaoticed,  when  about  twenty  yean  ago  a 
young  Greek  Morean  returning  from  Vienna,  where  he  had 
perfiinned  his  studies,  touched  at  the  port  of  St.  Theodore, 
and  having  decyphered  the  inscription,  dug  out  the  sum.  He 
diea  engraved  the  translation  of  the  original  notice  below  it, 
and  affixed  bis  name,  his  country,  and  a  dedaration  of  bh 
'having  fulfilled  the  conditionB  impeeed,  all  which  is  still  ex* 


DiailizodbvGoOglc 


0int&)  id  tfie  hoTth  tif  BtMrintpd.  Sotai  geti. 
grapfaers,  guided  b^  the  te^em\A&ric6  df  ti&nie^, 
Im-rk  placed  Oticum  at  VdUHoi  becaiia*  Ofk)tih 
has  the  same  signification  iti  ^ciefit  as  Ydtino 
bfears  ittvaigir  Greek.  But  Ifi  examining  tht 
j^sage  in  whicH  C^s^  gtved  Ad  aec6utit  <^  the 
faarprlze  of  Apbllontaj  it  become^  leVideilt  that 
Orijcuih  oolild  not  bi^  ^  6t#  dff  &ii&  (be  litfttil'. 
TheOtttAon  of  Ghittism,  entirely  §lt(i6ied  od  th« 
bad;  o^  the  dt@^p  declivities  df  ^e  Aerdde^SiK- 
nian  iai(hintainei  i^  intet-aected  bj  deep  ^nd 
tnggj  deffles.  Covered  ^ith  toeks,  and  eotisd^ 
^iieiitly  ^inosrt  incUlt.  Thti  <:obunU&ic&tkHlt 
miih  exl&ted  %y  tH  back  of  ^HM  va&nttMiA 
With  the  tKhttih  t>£  T^elebl  Btld  tbe  dntriet  ef 
Argiro-ICastro  have  been  deatroyed  for  the  secu- 
rity of  the  country.  The  same  has  also  faap> 
pened  tt>  the  ancient  Roman  rbad  in  the  vicinHy 
Df  Delvino.  These  motivesj  ahd  tbe  pdv^rt^ 
bf  ihe  country,  oblige  the  inhabitants  to  go  in 
search  of  their  fortimes  elsewhere}  and,  warrion 
by  inclination,  they  ar^  entirely  devoted  to  a 
BiiHtary  Hfy.  As  Icnig  as  Ib^  Veneti&n^  atm^ 
ihinded  ih  thfe  S6ven  IskiidS,  notwithstanding 
Uiey  were  in  friendly  relation  with  them,  they 
iisuaily  went  to  Naples-  to  servcj  where  they 
ftnged  the  raiments  of  Mac&denitui  and  Albm 
irffth  chaSBebrg,  known  undter  tfie  hatee  bf  Cfe* 
idisciotti.    Since  the  fidl  of  thi»  republic  they 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


mxt.'T.^       fas  AWiAw  olauds.  isi 

bttve  consUnadj'  b«^t  np  troops  in  die  service  <^ 
the  p<rWitr  to  ichose  protection  the  Seven  Ishoidi 
«^e  eottflded. 

'  t\t&  citttm  of  DelflnO}  wUob  ibmed  Hm 
Aa^tb«m  pftft  «f  thb  patrluflie,  equally  belonged 
td  fltei  Cluoniadif.  This  city»  whme  pO|HiUti<M 
ACbduntt  to  about  S^XX)  iKiute,  standa  in  Uie  stead 
<}f  Ae  ancietit  ilteu«i  and  is  built  on  a  height 
t>etwe6n  the  rirer  t^vl&,  Ibrtnerly  Xanthug,  and 
fb«  Flttrifli,  which  was  called  Do(A)ff,  or  AmoJA 
^hJs  town  recals  the  remembrance  of  Andro- 
iSltcbe,  Widow  of  Hector,  who  resided  there 
after  the  death  of  P^hus,  son  to  Achilles,  and 
ber  msMtd  husband,  where  she  gare  to  the 
li^^hbourlng  and  surrounding  rivers  the  namefl 
ef  those  whkh  baUie  her  own  native  cottdtry. 
In  this  same  canton  Pheniet  is  still  to  be  traced, 
on  tile  i-oad  &om  Avion  to  Bucintr6,  at  the 
ftfe^gnt  time  Mlled  I*bontkl,  situated  on  the 
Fsvlffc  to  ^e  north  of  Delvino,  as  wdl  ai  Af?<ni- 
ipki,  hOMr  the  village  of  Alandriana,  to  the  sooth 
bf  ^e  towtt  t^  this  satne  name  situated  on  the 
Hstriht. 

This  *Bnwinder  dTthe  pachalic  of  Delvino, 
tHiibh  comprehends  the  clans  at  present  known 
tHider  the  name  of  the  Philates,  Thiamides,  P&. 
Mtbithians,  and  Margaritiam,  was  formerly  jn> 
habited  by  the  Tittsprotes,  a  people  renowned  hj 
Gtcicg  fyr  thdr  wisdom  and  HberAi  virtaefl. 

G 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


132  THE  .lOHIAN^aSLAITDS..         (^COAF.  V. 

Three  of  the  five  towns  possesied  by  the  Vene- 
tians on  this  continant  belonged  to  the  ancient 
Thesprotia.  To  the  north  was  seen  Buthrotunit 
now  Bucintr6>  a  sm^m  town,  fcHinerly  fortified, 
^d  situated  near  a  marsh,  which  rendered  the 
residence  there  veiy  unhealthy.  The  port  of 
Pelodes, /^iaxXidi  near  the  above,  was  no. other 
than  the  outlet  of  the  marshes  of  Bucintr6, 
which  still  bear  the  name  of  lake  Pelodi.  On 
the  back  of  Moiint  Moutzkeli,  towards,  the 
Thyamis,  or  Kalamas,  stands  the  town  of  Phi- 
lates,  fifteen  hours  distance,  from  Joannina,  to- 
wards  the  west.  This  town,  which  contains 
about  400  houses  tolerably  well  constructed,  is 
the  capital  of  the  cantons  of  the  Philates,  other- 
>irise  calle4  Tziamouri.  The  species  of  league 
by  vhich  the  inhabitants  preserve  their  inde* 
pendence,  by  paying  a  small  amount  of  head- 
money,  extends  on  both  banks  of  the  Thyamis, 
from  the  canton  of  Jarovina  as  &r  as  the  sea, 
between  Mount  Moutzkeli  and  Mount  Olichinio, 
which  separates  them  from  the  canton  of  Mar- 
gariti.  In  this  canton  there  are  no  other  places 
of  any  importance  than  the  small  town  of  Ko- 
nispoli  and  the  large  village  of  Liopussi.  For- 
merly Glikis-Limen  was  situated  on  this  part  of 
the  coast,  which,  from  the  distance  named  in  the 
ancient  itinerary,  and  its  situation  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Thyamis,  sometimes  called  Gliki,  must 


U,z<,i:,.,  Google 


CHAP,  v.]  THE  IONIAN  -ISUNDS.  123 

have  been  on  the  present  spot  of  Gomenitza. 
Between  Bucintr6  and  Gromenitza  Dianiim  for- 
merly  stood,  near  to  the  place  where  the  Han 
of  Keracba  now  is,  and  also  Sorone^  sittuUed  at 
the  bottom  of  the  bay  where  Nisi  has  been 
bunt 

Beyond  the  Thyamis  is  the  canton  of  Maiga- 
rili.  This  town,  built  on  the  southern  declivity 
of  Mount  Olichinio,  at  about  three  hours  'dis* 
tance  from  Parga,  the  same  £:om  Gomenitza, 
and  two  from  the  sea,  is  independent  of  Ali 
Facha,  although  governed  in  his  name  by  a 
Belouk  Bachi,  or  native-bom  governor.  Mar- 
gariti  is  the  ancient  Gytana,  To  the  south- 
west of  Ma^ariti,  on  the  sea-side,  stands  the 
village  of.  Say ades,fiirmely  SibbtOj  which  served 
as  a  port  to  the  above  town.  In  proceeding 
along  the  sea-coast  ibrmerly  was  discovered  Cla- 
mareumy  probably  now  Lugora,  and  afterwards 
Farga,  anciently  Ephyra,  Gtphyra,  or  Cichyra. 
■This  town,  of  which  the  port  is  formed  by  a 
small  island  d^ended  by  a  well-armed  battery, 
and  commanded  by  a  castle  in  good  order,  is 
the  only  one  the  Ionian  republic  has  preserved 
on  the  continent,  as  we  have  already  had  occa- 
sion to  notice.  After  Parga,  in  following  the 
directi(»i  of  the  coast,  were  seen  port  Comarus 
4Dd  port  Eleus,  both  comprised  in  the  gujf  now 


j,=,i,z<,d=vGoogk' 


adkd  Porto  PbainrL  At  the  botton  of  port 
ComiTus  was  Critgme,  rum  rcpljKed  bj  the 
mins  ot  the  viWage  and  chorch  of  St.  Giovanni 
di  FbatDiri.  To  the  noiili  of  Pai|pi  and  Ifarga* 
ritt  is  the  canton  of  Paramitfaia,  dependent  on 
Ali  Pacha :  but  this  dependence  is  not  so  -abi»- 
lute  ai  to  prevent  faint  £rom  frequently  ei^eri- 
cncing  resistance  to  the  ezacutioa  of  his  wiH  ( 
in  faet  he  is  under  the  nccenlty  of  entering  into 
oonitant  negociatiou  in  order  to  keep  down 
Open  revolts.  The  town  of  Paramithia,  whose 
inhabitanta  amount  to  \S,O0O  souls,  is  situated 
at  ten  hours  distance  from  Joaniiina,  and  five 
ftem  Souli,  with  which  it  communicates  hj  ^^ 
veiy  practicaUe  road.  Paramithia^  ia  all  pro- 
hftbility,  has  taken  the  place  of  the  ancient 
FatAut.  The  rivulet  descending  from  Paramv 
thia  to  Farga,  and  which  was  believed  to  be  oae 
of  the  diacbaigee  of  the  lake  of  JoaDnuia^  waa 
oalled  Jckerom.  Oa  its  banks  to  the  north  of 
Farga  is  seen  a  village  of  the  name  of  PalioreB* 
IZR,  where  t^e  same  Pando^  was  placed  which 
^ve  rise  to  so  great  an  error  on  the  part  of 
Alexander,  King  of  Epirus ;  who  not  darkig  to 
iqpproach  this  town,  which,  according  to  the 
^diction  of  on  onde,  was  to  prove  Atal  to 
luBi)  passed  oter  to  Italy,  where  he  w»  fciUecl 
in  aaiujier  Pbodovia.  belonging  to  the  Ivttsr 


_  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


fHAP.  v.]  TGEB  IONIAN  lA&MDA.  ttS 

longdoni,  whereby  tbe  predictkai  vm  hAB&ed, 
The  canton  t^  Paraimtbia  is  tbe  last  of  aacieat 
Hie^protia. 

To  the  aortli  of  Porto  I^anari,  and  at  th« 
Soot  of  Meant  Kassopo*  dwdt  :Mioithcr  cfan 
^KA  iBay  be  comprised m  Albania.  ThiBistJuft 
of  tbe  Souliota,  FoFttierly  known  under  tbe  name 
of  Casmptea,  Shut  up  among  the  almost  ineo 
ceraible  raountuns  stretching  along  tbe  rivulet 
vhicfa  dtscbarges  itself  in  the  bay'  of  Fbanari, 
they  maintained  themselves  till  the  year  1808« 
uilder  the  form  of  an  absolutely  independent 
r^ublic.  But  ire  shall  hereafter  have  ocoasioa 
to  nodce  them  in  a  more  particular  manner. 
The  republic  of  Sauli  was  composed  of  eighteea 
vUb^es,  the  pdncipal  eif  vrhich  is  Mega-Soufi« 
or'Kako«SouU,  formerly  Astaros,  NavariikoSjBiiA 
Kiapba. 

'  'The  ancient  countries  of  The^rdtiMtai&Ca»' 
Mspttupreie&taDftqiectof  avaEtednatttte,  Xbift 
b^tlcs  of  the  Thyamis,  add  t^  several  o^ttt 
rivers,  as  veil  as  the  cantoQs  of  Margariti  and 
Paramithta,  affi>rd  some  well  caltlvated  and 
iduindant  plains.  Tbe  cemaiader  of  the  ooua- 
try,  and  particularly  the  vicinity  of  JPai^a  find 
'the  «aiitOD  of  Souli,  is  intersected  wi&  -Cfag^ 
«tid  arid  mountains,  vheie  nothing  butA  >&v 
jpUve  trees  grow. 
Insppzoaching  tomids  the  nafitb,,u>  ibe-Mft 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


;M6  THE  lONlAK  ISLANDS.  [cHAP.T. 

of  Chimara,  we  enter  on  the  country  which 
constituted  the  pachalic  of  Argiro-Kastro,  for- 
merly dependent  on  the  Sandgiak  of  Avloha. 
Thia  country,  closed  in  between  the  Acroce- 
raunian  mountains  and  Mount  LacmtiSy  now 
Mertzika  and  Tzoumerka,  includes  the  bed  of 
the  river  Driino,  or  Argiro-Potamo,  which  is  the 
Chelydntts  of  the  ancients.  This  country  be- 
longed to  the  Atintanes,  At  the  present  day 
we  find  Argiro-Kastro  situated  there,  which  for- 
merly was  called  HadriampoUs,  and  more  anci- 
ently Phanote.  This  city,  which,  with  its  de- 
pendencies, can  place  12,000  men  underarms, 
is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Driino,  on 
one  of  the  lowest  divergent  decIivitieB  of  the 
Acrocffl'aunian  mountains,  in  a  smiling  and  weH 
cultivated  country.  The  other  towns  of  this 
valley  are,  Liebovo,  built  on  the  western  side 
of  Mount  Mertzika ;  Pogonia,  whose  position 
is  not  well  known  in  these  mountains,  and  Go* 
ritza,  on  the  left  of  the  Driino,  between  Argiro- 
Kastro  and  Tepeleni.  One  might  some  years 
aga  have  added  Charmova,  to  the  south  of  Ka» 
mioitza,  of  which  nothing  but  the  ruins  are  now 
to  be  seen.  In  this  same  valley  is  the  village  of 
Episkopi,  where  there  is  a  large  manu&ctory  of 
tobacco.  Formerly  there  were  among  the  Atin- 
tanes several  towns,  and  among  others,  Kodrion^ 
]Antipatria,  Hecatonpedortt  and  BacOt .  but  it 
5 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CHAP,  v.]  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  127 

would  be  extremely  difficult  to  mark  their  exact 
positions.  It  is  only  probable  that  Hecaton- 
pedon  was  situated  on  Mount  Tzoumerka,  op- 
posite to  Fremiti,  perhaps  the  present  Pogonia. 
The  position  of  Antipatria  accords  veiy  well 
with  that  of  Goritza ;  but  with  regard  to  the 
two  other  towns,  they  were  situated  towards  the 
upper  part  of  the  valley.  All  the  country  of 
the  ancient  Atintanes  is  at  the  present  moment 
extremely  fertile,  and  well  cultivated.  The 
valley  of  the  Ckilydnus  is  filled  with  villages, 
and  on  both  sides  the  cultivation  extends  very 
high  on  the  declivities  of  the  mountains. 

To  the  north-east  of  Argiro-Kastro,  on  the 
eastern  side  of  Mount  Mertzika,  and  in  the 
valley  of  the  river  Vojutza,  are  the  cantons  of 
Klissoura,  of  Fremiti,  and  Konitza,  formerly 
inhabited  by  the  Parwoaiy  who  were  dependent 
on  Felagonia.  These  three  cantons,  formerly 
governed  by  particular  beys.  Who  were  in  feu- 
datory dependence  on  the  Sandgiak  of  Avlona, 
have  now  been  placed  under  the  dominion  of 
All  Facha,  who  has  destroyed  the  families  which 
governed  there.  In  the  country  of  the  Fara- 
vai  stood  the  celebrated  defile  called  Fauces,  or 
Stena-PelagonuE.  It  is  the  defile  of  Klissoura 
so  well  described  by  Livy,  (lib.  xxxii.  cap.  5. 
and  6.)  Antigonta  was  also  seen  there^  and  in 
its  stead  we  now  find  Fremiti,  as  well  as  Stym- 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


H9  T«e  IWI4M  m-Axmi,       [cEur.r^ 

harat  or  Stxijkruh  WW  K9oit«»,  w  w»y  ks  fmif 
Mxa  by  examiniiig  the  €rat  oun^^gv  of  ik» 

tlua  1ow«  was  dti^ifcd  on  ih^  oQtgit  sid«  ,qf 
tiiB  C»mhuiu»n  «u>t«ftt«ie8t  in  tbe  ^cpmotry  «&' 
eiently  icaUed  Z^ce^u,  aitd  is  ww  osUed  .S«* 

I^ear  the  sowers  of  tbe  river  V<)jiit»  Bt»^ 
tbe  distjict  of  Z»gfxi»,  in  gr^t  measwe  infaih 
hited  by  Gneeks,  and  dq>enduit  oa  tbe  Ssudr 
giak  of  Joanntna.  The  Zag^riaifi  are  tiie  JWr 
cient  Felagooians,  of  Pelagonia  Tripoiititi  ndto 
beld  .«way  in  aU  the  valley  of  ^e  riv«r  ^pw,  as 
fiu-  2&$tma  Pehgrna^AvA  were  ^w  suoDKOMd 
becwu^e  they  had  only  :three  itovfis.  T^eir^ca^ 
pital*  called  Axoms,  or  Peiagoviay  '.ba^  ^fa^en  xer 
{ilUced.by  Zogoria,  BtUl  tbe  chief  place  tofidie 
canton.  Their  other  towns  vere  J^uUoke,  or 
Toiicbcy  atpreaeut  TochaU,  a. lai|^  Village,  JHitf 
PUheth  which  ba^  ;|ffesen!ed  its  joriginal  name. 
It  wasalso  in  JPelagonia  that  tbe^dace.called-by 
I-ivy  Coitra-PyrrU  was  situated.  This  castle, 
nllipb  be  .places  half  way 'between  KIis9ou£a;aD4 
Mount  Jfletzflivo,  itppeara  ,to  have  ^tood  in  l^e 
QKlt  where.an  AQcient  castle  or  denrept^os^noir 

*  Dtrveat  is  the  name 'given  in  Turliey  to  the  an^l  flMrt* 
•r  giwid;liom«B  sitp&ted  lit  (lie  defiJfB  and  conuwpdiog  jp«i4b 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP,  v.]  lUE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  129 

to  be  seen,  to  the  right  of  Vojutza,  in  front  of 
Ostanitza.  The  cantons  of  Klissoura,  Fremiti, 
Konitza,  and  Zagoria,  are  extremely  mountain- 
ous, and  covered  with  wood.  The  valley  of 
the  Vojutza  is  indeed  well  cultivated,  but  it  is 
narrow,  particularly  between  Fremiti  and  KIis> 
soura. 

Towards  the  sources  of  the  Thyamis  and  Che- 
lydnus,  between  the  Felagonians  and  the  Atin- 
tanest  formerly  lived  the  Stymphai.  At  present 
they  are  the  Liapis,  a  people  given  to  theft  and 
brigandage,  dwelling  at  the  union  of  mounts 
Tzoumerka  and  Moutzkeli,  in  the  cantons  of 
Delvinaki  and  Ostanitza,  and  extendiog  them- 
selves as  fer  as  above  Liebovo.  Their  towns 
formerly  were,  NidEum,  now  Delvinaki,  a  small 
town  situated  between  the  sources  of  the  rivers 
Driino  and  Kalamas,  on  the  road  from  Joannina 
to  Tepeleni,  to  Argiro-Kastro,  and  Delvino. 
GyrtohOt  now  called  Jarovina,  is  a  large  village 
two  hours  £.  of  Delvinaki.  Ali  Pacha  has  a 
palace  there  which  he  has  surrounded  with  for- 
tifications, and  converted  into  a  species  of  ci- 
tadel, mounted  with  some  guns.  Near  Jarovina 
is  a  lake  extremely  deep,  which  appears  to  have 
been  the  crater  of  a  volcano.     At  Margari,  to 

JQ  whicb  a  gmrd  ia  kept  for  the  police  of  the  roads.  It  is 
from  this  that  the  inspector-general  of  the  police  takes  the 
title  of  Dtrvaadgt  Pacha.— Ta. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


ISO  Tm  HWIAN  IBLANDSk  [CHAP.V. 

the  £L  o£  JoaaQioa,  Btande  another  of  Ali'a 
castleBi  aod  on  thd  river  Jarovilia,  near  it» 
unkm  with  tiie  Kolatnaa,  are  large  gunpowder 
%orks>  Tfat  caDfeon  of  Delrinaki,  as  well  a» 
the  bed  of  the  Jatovina^ofe  well  cultivated^  but 
th^  tebiainder  of  the  cDutiti7  m  wild,  and  in  ■ 
desert  state. 

T\>  die  N'.  of  the  Ouaiopean  mouQtaiiis^  be- 
tween the  latter,  the  Lacmm,  or  Teoumerka> 
the  TomaYuSy  uid  the  Pindxa,  dwelt  the  Do' 
hpes,  celel»ated  Ibr  the  oracle  of  DodiMa.  Their 
counby  is  compreheikdeil  in  theSkndgiak  crf'Jo- 
aanina,  and  fbrntB  the  partiiriular  district  of  this 
city.  Joannina,  c^itid  of  the  stataa  of  All 
Pacha,  is  a  modem  city.  Its  fbundation  is  el> 
ttibuted  to  Johfi  Cantacu^ne,  who  gave  to  it 
hifl  own  nataiet  and  held  hiimdf  there  indepea* 
dent  of  the  Greek  emperor*.  Some  assert  dial 
Joacmina  fras  founded  by  Michael  Lucas  'Sebaa- 
tocr&^or^  and  Thomas^  Despot  of  £pirus.  Let 
this  be  lis  it  may,  this  city  wai  tdken  and  pi- 
lagtd  in  142i  by  -Sultan  Murad,  or  Amur^  sod 
fhtik  that  tine  it  Jias  mnaiHed  naited  to  tibt 
Ottomaln  eriipire.  OiiginaHy  k  only  coniasted 
of  a  ibrttfied  castle,  wbtoh  noSr  ferns  that  part 
of  the  to^t  called  Kastiym,  Still  septcrateA  Sfom 
the  rest  by  ramparts  mounted  with  cannon,  the 
gates  of  which  are  locked  at  night.  It  is  m  thia 
inclosure  that  the  principal  palace  of  Yisk  Aii 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


eoAP.v.]        TUB  ioaii.v  islamdi.  isi 

PfM^a  9tand9 ;  and  on  a  craggsd  rack  prqject- 
iDg  iato  tbe  lak«  wu  a  castle  uied  anciently  ftx 
tbe  purpose  o(  a  dtadel.  JbaDDina  was  t^cen 
•nd  pillaged  by  Eoger  II.,  King  of  Apulia,  at 
^e  time  q£  his  expediticm  into  lliefls^y,  and 
even  its  caaile  y/w  dismantled.  But  the  beauty 
of  iti  situatioa,  the  fertility  of  the  country 
roundf  andthe  great  coBimerce  of  entrepot  can- 
ned OD  there,  attracted  inhabitants,  and  it  wai 
not  only  rebuilt,  but  also  comideiaUy  «ilarged. 
At  tbe  present  ttrae  ttu3  city  contains  fium  45,000 
to  SOfiOO  inhabitants ;  it  u  well  built,  the  streets 
are  paved*  and  it  can  boost  a  handsome  baear, 
or  cojmnerdal  h^.  This  city  would  have  still 
been  richer,  and  more  oommerciaL  if  the  arbi- 
trary acts  to  which  Ali  Pacha  frequently  resorts 
had  not  driven  many  foragn  merchtn^  away. 
Aii  has  caused  tbe  palaoe  of  JJtaritza  {o  be 
armed  and  fortified,  vhich  is  atuated  oa  a  hill 
in  the  middle  of  the  town,  and  converted  it  into 
a  second  citadeL  He  has  likewise  buik  a  new 
palace  to  the  W.  of  the  eily ;  aaid  this  castla, 
called  Bakscbe  Serai*  or  by  tbe  Greeks  P^ivolt, 
in  coBiequence  of  the  gQtideiis  which  surround 
it,  stands  in  a  beautiful  situation. 

Hie  lake  of  Joannioa,  andeatly  called  Imcux 
Aeberufhit,  or  Ackertuim  FattUt  cKteods  from 
tbe  N.  W,  to  &  £.  IB  a  space  of  more  than  foRr 
leagues,  and  is  ;diout  a  league  aad  half  in  tfc« 

K   2 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


132  THE    IONIAN   ISLANDS.  [cHAF.  V- 

widest  part.  To  the  E.  of  Joannina,  towards 
the  middle  of  the  lake,  is  an  island  formed  of  a 
cragged  rock,  on  which  is  a  village  abandoned 
during 'the  month  of  September,  owing  to  the 
frequent  earthquakes  then  experienced  there. 
In  front  of  this  island,  and  near  the  convent  of 
St.  Creorge,  a  spring  issues  from  the  rock  in 
twenty  difierent  streams,  forming  a  river  suffici- 
ently deep  for  the  purposes  of  navigation,  and 
which,  after  a  course  of  about  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  loses  itself  in  the  lake.  This  was  formerly 
the  Cocytus.  A  rivulet  nearly  similar,  which 
also  discharges  itself  into  the  Acherusian  lake, 
to  the  S.  E.  and  near  Bourkomadi,  was  the 
Sty.r.  Between  Perama  and  Rodostopos  runs  a 
rivulet  descending  from  that  part  of  the  Pindus 
now  called  Mount  Palieri,  which,  in  all  proba- 
bility, was  the  stream  of  Dodona.  At  two 
leagues  distance  fcom  Joannina,  towards  the 
N.  W.  the  lake  closes  in,  and  becomes  no  other 
than  a  marsh,  which  is  crossed  on  a  long  cause- 
way pierced  with  a  great  number  of  arches. 
In  the  middle  of  this  marsh  flows  a  river  which 
loses  itself  near  Bouvra,  in  a  swampy  lake,  at 
present  called  Yarathron,  but  which  formerly 
bore  the  name  of  Avernus  ("Aopvof.)  The  plain 
of  Joannina,  that  is,  the  basin  which  extends 
as  &r  as  the  Cassiopean  mountains,  comprising 
the  villages  of  Kerkalopoulo,  Gondilia,   Bis- 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CIIAP.VO  THE   IONIAN  ISLANDS.  IS3 

toumi,  Bonila,  Perilepti,  and  llabclusta,  was  an- 
ciently called  the  Elysian  Fields,  and  certainly 
deserves  this  name  by  its  beauty  and  fertility. 
At  Perama  and  KerkalopoulOi  on  the  road  to 
Pzid2a,  AH  Pacha  has  country  seats,  as  well  as 
a  haram  in  the  latter  place.  In  the  country  of 
the  Dolopes  formerly  were  situated  Hellopia, 
Cestrina,  and  Cassiope.  The  first  most  pro* 
bably  stood  on  the  margin  of  the  Acherusian 
lake,  opposite  to  the  bank  on  which  Joannina 
is  placed,  on  a  site  where  ruins  are  still  to  be 
seen,  near  the  village  of  Dourakan.  It  is  in  the 
castle  of  Hellopia,  of  which  the  inhabitants  stiU 
pretend  to  shew  the  remains  on  a  cragged  rock» 
that,  according  to  tradition,  Theseus  was  con- 
fined, together  with  his  friend  Pirithous,  by  the 
King  of  the  Molosset  and  Dolopes.  Cassiope 
was  more  to  the  S.;  and  it  is  to  this  city  that 
belong  the  ruins  still  to  be  seen  in  &ont  o£  Dri- 
miko,  exhibiting  monuments  of  the  most  beau> 
tifiil  Greek  style.  Cegtrim  was  at  a  small  dis- 
tance from  the  latter,  and  at  present  corresponds 
to  the  village  of  Kastri,  a  dependency  of  Fara- 
mithia.  With  regard  to  the  celebrated  oracle 
of  Dodona,  situated  on  the  back  of  the  great 
Pindus,  in  the  middle  of  a  forest  of  ever-green 
oaks,  some  persons  place  ^t  where  the  monas- 
tery of  the  Prophet  Elias  (agios  Hilias)  now 
stands,  erected  on  the  bank  of  a  rivulet  which 


_  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


134  Tfl£  lOMlAH  ISlAEffid.  ,         [ctlAP.  V. 

ftlla  Into  the  Arachtus.  Others  suppose  it  stood 
on  the  spot  where  there  is  now  a  pilgrim's 
chapel  dedicated  to  the  Virgit),  and  caUed  Agia 
Paraskevf.  The  latter  opinion  appears  to  be  the 
moat  founded^  in  eohBequence  of  the  rivulet 
^hich  descends  ft-om  Mount  Palieri  passing  near 
to  ParaBkevi,  and  afterwards  felling  into  the  lake 
of  Joannina;  and  this  rivulet  must  certainly 
bave  been  that  of  Dodona. 

to  the  south  of  the  Dokpes  were  the  Jtfd* 
loiseti  d\telHng  on  the  other  side  of  the  CassiO' 
pean  mountains^  along  the  gulf  of  jimirMiaj 
fi-om  the  mouth  of  the  small  river  of  Souli  a« 
ht  ai  that  of  the  Hver  of  Aria.  Hiis  country 
comprehends  the  district  of  Arta,  of  -ffhlch  the 
capital  undoubtedly  is  the  ancient  AmbficiOy  si- 
tuated a  little  above  the  mouth  of  the  Arachtu*, 
at  present  called  PotamoH  ti&  Aftas,  or  the  rivet 
cf  Arta.  ITie  port  and  (iastle  Amktadus  no 
longer  exist  •,  they  have  been  reduced  by  a  han 
and  custom-house,  which  AH  Padia  has  since 
suppressed!,  The  district  of  Arts,  besides  the 
towfi  of  that  name,  contains  the  small  Town  of 
Trikala  and  Prevesa,  which  ^nterly  belonged 
to  the  Venetians)  but  of  whit^  AH  Pacha  has 
since  obtained  possession.  The  city  of  A«a, 
the  population  of  -which  exceeds  ac^ooo  souls, 
is  well  built  on  the  other  side  of  the  moun- 
tains, to  the  left  of  the  Aracbtus^  in  a  bend 


3,a,l,;^dbyG00gIe 


C1IAF.V.3  THE  lOHIAK   UllHDS.  143 

fitmied  by  this  rivcf .  It  has  «  basar  and  strong 
oastle^  which  commands  tb&  town  to  the  E. 
This  place  was  ctfbtideiably  niore  eommem^ 
prior  to  the  invasiop  of  Ali  Pacha  than  it  has 
been  since  it  fell  into  his  power.  It  was  the  r^ 
sideDce  of  the  foreign  oootuils,  whom  he  has  now 
(Ailiged  to  coma  near  him  to  Joaaiii«a>  where  ho 
is  Me  to  counteract  their  views  as  much  u  he 
pleases.  Prevetaj  which,  under  the  Veoetiaiis. 
contained  near  15,000  souli,  and  at  present  not 
3^000^  has  been  built  out  ^  the  nunaof  the  mv 
cicnt  Aetia  Nictpotit,  on  the  north  nde  of  the 
gulf  of  Arta,  of  which  it  is  the  key,  and  near 
to  its  entrance.  This  place,  wbich,  previous  to 
the  year  1799,  carried  on  almost  all  the  com- 
merce of  the  Epirui,  now  possesaiis  no  trnces 
o£  activity.  Ali  Pacha  appears  to  have  &r  ol^ 
ject  to  destroy  it,  and  to  leaVe  there  nothing 
more  than  t^  £ott  and  batteries.> 

In  the  country  of  the  Motaues  were  formerly 
found  the  following  towns:  Elaihera^  now 
called  Louro,  a  eaaeU  town  witb  a  CfUtle,  si- 
tuated near  the  river  of  the  same  ciame,  and  «B- 
rientiy  called  Charsdrus.  This  river  entirely 
iamep  from  the  Cassiqiean  mountaina,  at  an 
hour's  distance  to  the  £.  of  Louro,  and,  a£ler  . 
ranning  a  course  of  two  leagues,  loses  itself  in 
the  gulf.  Ckaradroy  which  no  longer  exists, 
but  was  situated  at  dK  mouth  of  the  Charsdrus. 
1 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


13G  THE   IONIAN   ISLANDS.  [cHAF.  V< 

Passaro,  as  well  as  Trano,  appe^u-  to  have  stood 
to  the  N.  of  Arta,  towards  Zarakovitza.  Hor- 
reum,  where  the  store-houses  of  the  maritime 
station  of  Nicopolis  were  kept,  is  probably  the  si- 
tuation of  the  modem  Trikala ;  and  Pkylace 
was  beyond  it»  on  the  road  ftom  Ambracia  to 
Tricca,  or  Trikala,  ofThessaly.  7o^u«,  a  strong 
castle,  stood  on  the  rock  at  the  foot  of  which 
the  custom-house  of  Salagora  now  is,  and  where 
the  ruins  are  still  to  be  seen.  The  plain  which 
stretches  along  the  gulf  from  Arta  as  far  as 
Louro  is  extremely  beautiful,  and  possessed  of 
an  extraordinaiy  fertility  j  the  valley  also  of  Tri- 
kala is  very  well  cultivated.  The  vicinity  of 
Prevesa,  which  was  once  equally  fertile,  and 
particularly  abounding  in  olive-yards,  at  present 
is  in  want  of  hands,  and  the  plantations  have 
been  burnt  to  the  ground.  The  rest  of  the 
country  is  mountainous,  wild,  and  uncultivated; 
and  between  Salagora  and  Louro  are  large  salt 
works. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Dolopes  were  the  Ferrbebi, 
inhabiting  the  sources  of  the  Arachtus,  or  the 
Delta,  formed  by  the  river  of  Arta  and  the  Di- 
potami,  of  which  the  branches  come  from  Agios, 
Jlias,  and  Marino.  Fart  of  this  country  belongs  to 
the  district  of  Joannina,  and  the  rest  is  dependent 
on  the  canton  of  Metzovo.  The  small  town  of 
Metzovo  occupies  the  situation  of  ,no  ancient 


.  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


CHAP,  v.]  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  1 37 

place.  It  is  inhabited  by  a  colony  of  Bulgarians, 
-who  resorted  there  in  search  of  an  asylum ;  and 
its  situation,  although  in  the  midst  of  high  moun-. 
tains,  makes  it  daily  increase.  It  is  situated  at 
the  point  where  three  great  roads  separate,  and 
where  the  cnravans  pass,  when  travelling  from 
Joannina  to  Grevna,  Ochrida,  Monastir,  Salo- 
nica,  Larissa,  and  Zeitoun.  No  ancient  towns 
are  known  in  the  country  of  the  Perrhebians 
except  CirdneutH,  now  Kirkeni,  between  Met- 
zovo  and  Zagoria,  and  Menel^ist  most  probably 
under  the  modern  name  of  Kalavttes,  on  the 
foot-road  from  Joannioa  to  Stagous.  All  this 
country  is  extremely  mountainous,  and  little  cot- 
tivated. 

The  Epirotian  cantons  belonging  to  All 
Pacha's  dominions,  and  which  we  have  just  de- 
scribed in  the  geography  of  Hadgi  Chalia,  are 
comprehended  under  the  name  of  Sandgi'ak  of 
Janina,  to  which  he  annexes  the  following  ju- 
risdictions :  Janina  i  Korondos,  or  Zagoria ; 
Vunidscha,  near  Sarigol  and  Servitza,  which 
is  most  probably  an  error  of  the  transcribers ; 
and  also  Kuiiidsha,  or  Konitza;  and  Narda,  or 
Arta.  This  Sandgiak,  consequently,  includes 
all  that  may  now  be  called  Epirus. 

The  provinces  of  ancient  Macedonia  under 
the  dominion  and  government  of  AH  Pacha,  by 
Hadgi  Chalfa  are  described  under  the  name  of 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


138  THE.  lOtrUN  nUNO*.  [CHAP.V. 

the  Sundgiak  of  Ocbiida,  ud  thnt  of  Kapadtn 
Fiscba.  He  gives  them  the  fallowiiig  distdbu- 
tkm : — 

Sandgiak  of  Ochrida,  holdiiig  the  juriadiction 
of  Ochrids^  situated  to  the  £.  of  the  lake  of 
diat  name,  and  inhabited  hj  Bulgarians.  Debri, 
or  Dibra,  on  the  Drinoh  Istarda,  situated  on 
lake  Ochrida.  Mat,  ^tuated  on  Uie  river  of  that 
name,  caHed  by  the  preset  inhatntants  Duka- 
gino.  lechim,  w  Chifiino.  Akhissar,  or  Krcga, 
Pre^M,  or  Persepe.  Koridge*  or  Gorta,  to* 
wards  Kastoria.  Ktdonia,  between  Gortza  and 
Premiti.  C^r  and  Tomonndsha;  these  two 
last  places  are  dtuated  in  the  mountains  between 
Frespa,  Dibra,  and  Elbassan,  and  are  inhdnted 
by  independent  Albanians,  forming  part  of  the 
country  of  the  Gheghes.  The  joxisdictions  of 
Hat,  Ischim,  and  Akhiasarj  at  present  depend* 
ent  on  the  pachalic  of  ^ntan,  as  wdl  as  that 
of  Kolonia,  forming  part  of  the  pachalic  of 
Berst,  are  omitted  in  the  geographical  sketch 
oB  which  we  are  about  to  enter,  because  they 
do  not  bekmg  to  the  dominions  of  AU  Pacha.' 
We  diall  therefore  confine  ourselves  to  the  juriv 
dictions  of  Ochrida,  Prespa,  aud  Gortza  ;  the 
cantons  of  Dibra,  0|)ar,  Totnorindfiia,  being, 
as  we  have  ^ready  noticed,  inhabited  by  inde- 
pendest  and  ferocious  dans,  which,  althou^ 
nominally  subject  to  Ali  Paoha,  have  oo  tdz- 


_  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


CHAP,  v.]  THE  lOtflAN  ISLANDS.  139 

tions  with  the  rest  of  his  domioions,  know  not 
Uie  ti$  of  obedience,  and,  coDsequeotly,  do  not 
enter  into  the  plan  of  our  deacription. 

Saadgiak  of  Kapudan  Pacha.  Its  jutisdic* 
tioDsare,  Toll,  orMonutir;  Pfailorina;  Kes^ej 
Golkes^e,  or  Kastoria,  on  a  lake  of  the  same 
name.  Gorbischta,  near  the  lake  of  Kastoria. 
Bilischta.  NasUdsch,  between  Kaatoria  and 
D^uma-Bazar.  Serfidge,  or  ServitSa.  Sai%dl, 
A  dumemberttient  of  the  district  of  Servitza. 
Dshuma'-Bazar.  Egribudgiak.  Ostrova.  Lanka, 
between  Kastoria  and  Philorina.  The  whole  of 
these  jurisdictioas  are  under  the  immediate  de- 
pendence or  influence  of  All  Pacha,  and  coose- 
gently  enter  into  the  description  of  bis  domU 
nions» 

The  soathem  part  of  the  Saadgiak  of  Ochrida 
was  ibrmerly  inhabited  by  the  Dassarette,  a 
peof^e  of  Illyrian  origin,  and  united  to  Mace- 
donia by  the  right  of  conquest.  Their  chief 
town  WM  'Lycknidutt  afterwards  catted  Jaatim- 
ii»a>^nr»fl,corre9ponding  to  the  modem  Ochrida, 
a  city  containing  a^out  1 9,000  inhdxtants,  built 
on  the  declivity  of  Mount  Mamaaa-Petrio,  and 
on  the  eastern  and  northern  side  of  lak«  Ochrida, 
whence  the  river  Drino  issues.  The  inhabit- 
Motx  »re,  in  great  measnre,  Bulgarians,  Cf^omet 
of  whom  are  thickly  scattered  in  these  moan> 
tfdns.     The  Zkutaretis  aho  had  Antipatritt  ge> 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


140  THE  IONIAN  Islands.        [chap.  v. 

nerally  believed  to  be  the  modern  Diavalo,  to 
the  S.  E.  of  Ochrida;  Geruns,  now  Zendurun, 
to  the  N.  of  Noskopoli  j  Uscana,  at  present 
called  Istarda,  on  the  S.  side  of  lake  Ochrida; 
Chrtsodium,  supposed  to  be  replaced  by  Gortza ; 
Peliunit  now  called  Flia;  and  Brucida^  now 
Prespa.  All  this  part  of  the  pachalic  of  Ochrida 
is  extremely  mountainous,  and  nearly  unculti- 
vated. In  Mount  Maniana-Petrin  some  mines 
of  silver  and  sulphur  are  found.  The  small 
town  of  Pre^a  is  inhabited  by  mount^neers  al- 
most barbarians,  and  extremely  poor.  That  of 
Gortza,  situated  in  a  tolerably  well  cultivated 
valley,  and  on  the  road  leading  &om  Durazzp 
and  Avlona  to  Salonica,  through  Berat,  or 
through  Ochrida,  is  more  populous  and  rich. 
•  The  districts  dependent  on  the  Sandgiak  of 
Kapudan  Pacha,  and  under  the  dominion  of 
Ali  Pacha,  correspond  to  the  third  region  of 
Macedonia  under  the  Romans,  and  extend  as  £tr 
as  opposite  KararVeria,  where  the  Sandgiak  of 
Salonica  commences.  That  of  Monastir  is  si- 
tuated in  the  southern  part  of  the  ancient  Peo- 
nia,  also  cdled  Pelagonia  and  Deuriopis.  Mo- 
nastir, otherwise  called  Toli,  or  Bitolia,  appears 
to  have  been  the  ancient  Bytazora,  surnamed 
Caput  Peoni<£.  This  capital,  exVemely  rich  and  , 
commercial,  is  built  on  the  slope  of.  a  hill  wa- 
tered by  one  of  the  rivulets  which  contribute  to 


_,.,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


CRAP.  T.^  THE  IONIAN   ISLANDS.  141 

form  the  Vistritza,  anciently  denominated  ErU 
gOTij  and  the  greatest  part  of  the  inhabitants  are 
Bulgarians.  It  was  taken  by  assault  in  the  year 
1373,  by  Timurtasch  Pacha,  one 'of  the  generals 
of  Sultan  Murad,  or  Amurati  sumamed  the  Vic- 
torious, and  the  castle  dismantled.  The  terri- 
tory of  Monastir  produces  abundance  of  cotton. 
Unfortunately  for  it,  however,  Ali  Pacha,  avail- 
ing himself  of  the  right  he  held  from  his  office 
of  Roumeli  Valachi,  forcibly  obtained  possession 
of  the  town,  and  having  ransomed  it  after  his 
own  manner,  carried  away  immense  treasures. 
The  great  trade  carried  on  here  prevented  the 
•place  from  thereby  falling  into  total  decay,  and 
it  now  begins  to  recover  from  so  great  a  loss. 
To  the  N.  W.  of  Monastir  is  the  small  town  of 
Magarovo,  celebrated  for  its  annual  fairs.  In 
this  same  district  Scirtiana  formerly  stood, 
through  which  one  of  the  Roman  roads  passed 
from  Lychnidus  to  Edessa ;  the  general  opinion 
is  that  Moschopoli  now  holds  its  place.  To  the 
N.  E.  of  Monastir,  and  the  I^.  of  Vosantza,  on 
the  margin  of  the  river  Kutchuk  Karasou,  the 
ancient  Stobii  was  situated,  a  municipal  town  of 
PeoDia.  AndaristuSy  or  Euristus,  now  Vo- 
santza, also  belonged  to  ancient  Peonia. 

The  districts  of  Kastorea,  Philurina,  and 
Lanka,  comprehended  the  country  of  the  an- 
cient Mstraif  situated  between  the  river  Ves- 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


142  THE  lOHUV  nLAllDq.  [gHAP.  V. 

tritza,  or  Erigoiit  and  the  Ioidiori»  fiu-merljr  tbe 
£etTam,  as  &r  «s  the  foot  v£  Mount  Boreu. 
Tbe  capital  of  these  people  was  JEstr^umt  a£- 
tenraxds  denominated  Castra,  or  Caateria,  aad 
it  is  Bov  called  Kesije,  or  Kastoria,  and  ib  built 
on  a  peninsula  to  tiie  N.  of  a  lake  which  lur- 
iDunds  it  on  three  sides.  The  strip  of  land 
whicii  unites  it  to  the  continent  is  cut  bj  a  ditch} 
over  which  a  bridge  has  been  built.  Kattoni 
has  a  castle  b^  no  means  in  good  conditioii. 
The  principal  produce  of  the  territory  of  this 
place  is  wine. 

Fhilurina,  the  capital  of  the  other  district, 
1KU  formerly  called  Perseit.  fietween  Philurim 
and  Kastoria,  in  former  times,  Dehorus  stood, 
vhic^  appears  to  liave  been  replaced  by  Fapeo- 
Derini,  the  present  resideaice  of  the  Cadi  of 
Xjuiika  i  and  also  Alorut,  situated  towards  Klis* 
soura.  The  place  called  Gerama  in  the  vAd.  iti.- 
neraries  af^ears  to  have  been  to  the  S.  of  t^ 
lake  of  Kastoria.  The  moantatDS  situated  be*- 
tweeu  Kastoria  and  Philurina  are  inhabited  by 
nuKed  esAoDtes  of  Serviaas  and  Valachians.  The 
road  tiiraii^  these  mountains  is  extremdy  bad* 
which  obliges  the  caravans  passing  from  Gtrevna 
to  Monastir  to  pre&r  tbe  route  by  Batista  aad 
Kjuilar. 

Tbe  districts  of  GorbKUandBiclitfJih^flLC 
{d«ce  -of  the  country  ocotipie^  by  tiie  i 


DiailizodbvGoOglc 


CHAP.tO  tBE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  14S 

LynoeHii,  Their  towns  were  Ceramia,  in  the 
plkce  of  which  now  stands  Gorbista;  BtyanMat^ 
or  BmrnuSt  at  the  present  day  called  Biclista,  or 
fiilischta,  on  the  rmd  from  Ochi-ida  to  Grevu 
ftnd  Kastoiia;  ^ne^/m,  now  Samanna;  Niceea, 
at  present  Gramosta;  Htraclett,  at  present 
known  under  the  name  of  Xevosna ;  MeliiBMU 
and  Ataiante,  which  stood  in  the  respecttve  si- 
tuadous  of  the  modern  Dilapso  and  Lepdilsta, 
at  ieast  as  &r  as  can  be  ascertiined  by  the  dis- 
tance! of  the  old  itineraries.  All  these  cantomi 
are  extremely  mountainous  and  woody. 

The  district  of  Grema,  lately  ibrmed  out  cf 
part  of  those  of  Gorbtsta  and  Saragol,  compre- 
bends  the  ancient  country  of  E^nea.  Grevna, 
die  tapital,  "vdiich  ibmKrly  was  known  under 
lire  name  of  Elymea,  is  a  town  extremely  com- 
mercial, and  one  of  the  Invest  entrepots  of  the 
iaterior  tracte  of  tfeb  country.  It  is  situated  at 
the  juQCtitm  of  d>e  roads  passing  ^m  Ochrida 
and  Monastir  to  Larissa  and  Zeitomi,  and  of 
Berat  and  Joannina  to  Sakmica  and  Comtanti- 
ttople.  Near  it  is  the  small  town  of  JtCavroDoroi, 
vtere  an  annual  fair  is  faeld  that  is  modi  ire- 
ipiented.  In  this  csmton  ancieatly  t^e  foJlowiog 
towns  were  situated.  Lyncm,  at  the  toot  of 
Mooat  Lyncom,  at  present  called  Metcovo;  tliis 
praition  appears  to  agree  vith  that  of  Vodsi^kn, 
a  imgie  vilbige  situated  towards  die  aources  of 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


144  THE  IONIAN   ISLANDS.  [CHAP.  Y 

the  Venetiko.  Scydrie,  which  was  towards  Cher- 
kagna;  Europus  an4  Mieza,  on  the  river  Hali- 
acmmty  now  called  the  Yenetico,  and  which 
Bsuat  have  stood  between  Erkinia  and  Ghergi- 
ades.  The  canton  of  Grevna  is  fertile  and  well 
cultivated,  particularly  in  the  species  of  Delta 
ibnned  by  the  Inichori  and  the  Yenetico*  be- 
tween Grevna  and  Servitza. 

The  districts  of  Naslidsch  and  Dshuma-Bazar 
were  situated  in  the  ancient  Eordea,  a  small 
country  comprehended  between  the  ancient 
Mmathia  and  Mygdonia.  The  small  town  of 
Dshuma-Bazar,  the  capital  of  this  canton,  has 
been  built  on  the  ruins  of  Edessa  since  the  Ot- 
tomans obtained  possession  of  this  country. 
Near  this  place,  on  the  banks  of  tlie  Yistritza, 
the  ancient  town  of  Ddusara  is  remembered. 
Siatista,  another  small  town  built  on  the  spot 
where  the  roads  from  Grevna  to  Philurina,  and 
from  Kastoria  to  Servitza,  cross  each  other,  has 
taken  the  place  ofGortynia.  The  station  marked 
in  the  ancient  Itinerary,  ad.  xu.  was  towards 
Kailar}  that  of  Ce//^  at  Kirpetii;  and  that  of 
Grande  towards  Drinovo.  The  whole  of  this 
country  is  equally  as  fertile  as  the  district  of 
Grevna. 

The  districts  of  Sarigol  and  Egribudgiak,  as 
well  as  those  of  Karaveria  and  Agostos,  depen- 
dent on  the  Sandgiak  of  SaIomca>  occupied  th« 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CHAP,  r.]  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  145 

range  of  the  ancient  Mmathiay  also  called  Ma- 
cedonia proper,  and  which  served  as  the  cradle 
to  this  kingdom.    Sarigol,  a  small  town  situated 
on  the  river  Inichori,  and  the  capital  of  an  ex- 
tremely fertile  and  rich  district,  is  a  modem 
place  built  by  the  Ottomans,  though  perhaps  it 
stands  in  lieu  of  the  ancient  Eginium,  which  was 
in  this  neighbourhood.     Egribudgiak,  situated 
on  the  river  Indge-Karasou,  below  Servitza,  ap- 
pears to  have  replaced  Puclata,  which  was  on 
the  road  from  Dium  to  Bercea.     The  latter 
place  was  the  ancient  qipital  of  Macedonia,  anfl 
is  now  called  Veria,  or  Kara-Veria.     It  surren- 
dered by  capitulation  to  the  Ottomans  in  1364, 
and  was  dismantled.    Bodena,  or  Vodena,  which 
belonged  to  the  same  people,  has  preserved  its 
ancient  name,  and  is  a  handsome  small  town  to 
the  N.  of  Agostos,  standing  on  the  lefl  bank 
of  the  Kutchuk-Karasou.    The  N.  W.  of  Ve- 
-dona,  on  the  road  &om  Stobii  to  Hiessalonica* 
were, ^n^^onui, which  Meletius  places  at  Kesna, 
on   the  river  Karasou,  nearly  to  the  E.   of 
Vosantza ;    Sten^,  which  must  be  the  modem 
Kirb-Dervent ;  and  Pkifsca,  probably  Turboli. 
The  eastem  canton  of  ^mathia,  towards  the 
mouths  of  the  Haliacmon  and  the  Erigon,  was 
called  Bottiaa.     It  was  here  that  Pella  once 
stood,  the  residence  of  the  kings  of  Macedonia, 
of  which  no  traces  are  now  to  be  found  ;  but 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


144  rbi  k^niaH  islattdb.        f  ctiA>.  t^ 

tbis  ilhcient  etty  Was  situated  on  Mle  s6titherii 
itlargih  of  the  like  betew  Kifa-Veri*.  Sparto' 
tta  and  Sirdhus  wei-e  also  known  in  this  cahtoHj 
In  Ihe  vicinity  of  Bentai  and  Seilji  %  as  well  as 
Gepkiroy  towards  Kolskij  and  Ichna,  ott  the 
left  of  the  mouth  of  the  Vistritza. 

The  district  of  Servitza,  stretching  along  the 
sea-eoaSt  between  the  river  Iiidge-<tCarasoii  attd 
Mount  Olympus,  was  formerly  caHed  PiiriA. 
The  town  of  Servitia,  which  is  the  Capital^  lb 
tblerably  large,  and  extnemcly  commercid^owing 
to  the  annual  fiilrs  held  there.  This  is  one  of 
the  great  points  of  communieatien  Km-  the  twde 
Carried  on  between  Larissa  aOd  Salodica.  Be«- 
tween  Servitza,  AlussoAa,  Atid  K&trini,  fe  Ch6 
small  towrt  of  Livadf,  situated  on  the  Nv  side 
of  Mount  Ki:a3ichiovo,  ftrmerly  Mount  dtiitis. 
It  is  probable  that  this  place  stands  on  the  site 
of  the  ancient  castle  of  Lapetkus ;  not  &f  from 
which,  and  in  the  direction  (WwardS  Bium,  Was 
the  monument  of  Orpheus.  The  small  lowB  of 
Kadekia,  or  Katrina,  situated  on  the  guBT  of  Sa- 
lonica,  occupies  the  ground  of  the  iftdfent 
iiatere.  A  little  to  the  K.  of  Pktamona  is 
found,  on  the  border  of  the  sea,  the  village  of 
Litochoro,  formerly  Htradea.  Syata  eOfW- 
Sponds  to  the  ancient  Beye.  Stiftdia  has  bee»i 
built  out  of  the  remains  of  Dium,  part  df  the 
rtiins  of  which  are  still  seen  between  the  latWr 
1 

DiailizodbvGoOglf 


eSAV.  T.J  IVE  nmUH  ISLANBf.  147 

village  ai^  Syara.  To  the  N.  of  Katrini,  Xetros, 
or  Czetrua,  stands  in  the  precincts  of  the  ancient 
Pydnoy  also  named  Cytron ;  and  Levterochori 
and  Kasier,at  the  mouth  of  the  Indge-Karasou, 
are  the  places  marked  in  the  old  itineraries  under 
the  names  of  Alorus  and  Acerdus,  In  the  inner 
part  of  the  country,  in  a  line  with  Xetros,  is 
Valko,  which  was  theancient  Valla,  on  the  inland 
road  from  ZHum  to  Beroea.  The  districts  q£ 
SarigSl,  £gnbudgiak,  ^gostoa,  Kara-Veria,  and 
Vbdenaf  are  rich,  and  extremely  fertile;  bnt 
that  of  Servitza  is,  in  a  small  degree,  inl^rior. 
Here  the  states  of  Ali  Pacha  terminate  to  the 
E.,  tboDgli  he  has  not  the  less  influence  in  the 
Bandgtak  c^S^onica,  in  consequence  of  his  con- 
neotioas  with  the  Bey  of  Serres. 

The  Sandgiafc  of  Trikala  comprehends  the 
whole  of  Thessaly,  and  constitutes  another  of 
the  gov«niments  of  Ali  Pacha.  To  it  Hadgi 
Chalfit  attributes  the  following  jurisdictions  :— 
Tirkala,  or  Trikala,  a  small  town  with  a  castle, 
at  two  miles  distance  &om  the  river  Kostum. 
F]^tmina,  or  Platamona,  on  the  sea-side,  near 
the  »oath  of  the  Scheftalunehr,  or  Salembria, 
which  ccHnes  down  from  Jenishehir.  Jenisfaehir, 
or  Larissa,  a  day's  journey  Irom  the  sea,  on  the 
Kosttua.  Golo,  or  Volo,  at  the  bottom  of  a 
guie  C^Btaldoa,  or  TcbatalddiB.  Velstin,  or 
Velestln.    Alanona,  on  the  road  from  Lurissa 


.  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


146  THE   lONUN  ISLANDS.  ^CHAF.  V4 

to  Salonica.  Ddmiuek,  or  Domenitza.  Fenar- 
Kebir,  near  to  Larisaa. 

Thessalj  was  formerlj  divided  into  six  parts, 
one  of  which,  called  Estiotis,  comprehended  the 
present  district  of  Trikala,  and  that  of  Agrapho, 
to  the  S.  of  the  latter  town.  The  second 
was  called  PeUugtotis,  and  corresponded  to  the 
districts  of  Alassona,  Domenitza,  and  Larissa. 
Ferrhebia  was  the  third,  and  took  in  the  present 
district  of  I^tamona.  Fourthly,  Thessaiiotit, 
which  comprehended  the  district  of  Czataldza. 
HfUiIy,  Magnesia,  which  included  the  districts 
of  Fenar-Kebir,  Velestin,  and  part  of  that  of 
Volo.  I^thly,  Pktiotiti  which  comprehended 
the  other  part  of  the  district  of  Volo,  and  also 
those  of  Zeitoun  and  Moduniah,  which  fiir  a 
moment  we  will  take  irom  the  Sandgiak  of  Egri. 
bos,  to  which  t\iey  now  belong. 

Hie  capital  of  the  ancient  Estiotis  was  Triceoy 
now  Trikala,  a  city  possessed  of  a  population  of 
about  8000  souls,  and  the  seat  of  government 
of  the  Sandgiak  of  that  name.  It  is  built  on 
a  declivity  of  the  mountains  near  the  margin  of 
a  river  anciently  called  Lctheem,  and  at  an  hour's 
distance  to  the  N.  of  the  river  Feneus,  at 
present  called  Salembria.  The  town  is  com- 
manded by  a  castle  in  bad  condition,  and  sur- 
rounded by  beautiftil  gardens.  In  the  year  1 3S7 
U  was  conquered  by  the  Ottomans.    To  the 


.Googl^ 


CHAP,  v.]  THE  IONIAN  ISLAH08.  149 

N.  W.  towards  the  sources  of  the  Feneus  was 
a*^cieDUy  known  Ojnnea,  now  Malakassi,  a  small 
village  on  the  road  of  Metzovo.  A  little  below 
is  the  viHage  of  Mokossi,  which  has  taken  the 
place  of  the  ancient  Egtmum.  Still  lower  down 
formerly  stood  Pkakra  and  Phteca,  in  the  vici- 
nity of  Kukulios  and  Kastagni.  Further  on, 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Peneus  with  another 
river,  remembered  under  the  andent  name  <^ 
Ion,  we  now  find  a  smaH  Greek  town,  called 
Kalabaki,  or  Stagous,  it  having  taken  the  place 
of  Gomphi.  At  three  hours  distance,  and  nearly 
to  the  N.  of  Stagous,  on  the  mountain  called 
Kalaik,  are  the  convents  called  Meteora,*  si- 
tuated on  perpendicular  rocks,  to  which  there  is 

*  The  conrenti  called  Meteora,  or  more  properly  Meta- 
Ora,  in  coniequeDce  of  their  aituatlon,  serve  w  places  of 
^ule  to  the  Greek  bishops  disgraced  by  the  Porte.  The  dif- 
ficulty in  ascending  to  them  converts  them  into  a  kind  of 
state-prisons,  divested  of  all  communication  with  the  sur- 
rounding country.  The  basket  in  which  persons  ascend  is 
guided  by  one  of  the  monks,  by  means  of  a  long  pole,  for  the 
purpose  gf  preventing  it  from  striking  against  the  wall  formed 
by  the  rocks,  which  might  create  duiger.  The  basket  holds 
feur  persons.  The  country  people  ascend  by  means  of  rope 
ladders,  but  this  is  too  hazardous  for  general  travellers,  in 
consequence  of  the  great  oscillations,  which  those  only  who 
are  accustomed  can  guide  and  prevent,  k  is  pretended  that  a 
Greek  family  residesBt  Stagoua  acquainted  with  a  path  formed 
by  the  points  of  the  rocks,  of  which  its  members  make  uae  for 
Fhe  secret  commissions  of  the  monks.->Ts. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


150  THE   lOSIAN   ISLAND!.  [CBAP.  Y. 

no  access  unless  by  rope-ladden,  or  by  means  of 
bBBkets  raised  with  a  capstan.  These  monaste- 
ries  are  nine  in  number.  Between  Trikala  and 
the  small  town  of  Zarko,  near  Kukulioa,  the 
traveller  crosses  a  river  now  called  Pamento,  am) 
formerly  Pamiau*.  On  this  nver  was  placed  tlif 
ancient  Metropolu^  the  situation  of  which  ac- 
cords with  that  of  the  modem  Flamamtt  ^  in 
which  case  the  fortresi  of  Ithome,  at  no  great 
distance,  would  have  been  succeeded  by  a  mo- 
nastery standing  on  an  elevation  to  the  E.  of 
flainaristi.  Above  Metropolis  was  Piera,  now 
Akia }  and  more  to  the  N.  W.,  in  the  mountains 
towards  the  sources  of  the  Lethe,  was  Atinium, 
which  appears  to  be  the  modem  Valemichd. 
At  the  mouth  of  the  Fatnisus  the  village  of  Ku- 
kulios  occupies  the  place  of  Pharcadon.  To 
the  S.  of  Trikala  is  the  canton  called  Agra- 
pho,  of  which  the  capital  is  Phanari,  corres- 
ponding to  the  ancient  Pherinus.  It  is  through 
this  canton  that  a  small  road  passes,  which,  after 
following  the  course  of  the  Achelous,  or  Aspro- 
Fotamo,  proceeds  to  L^anto,  and  thence  to  the 
Morea.  This  road  is  extremely  difficult  and 
dangerous,  and  goes  over  a  great  number  of  pre- 
cipices. On  one  of  those,  seen  between  Pha- 
nari  and  Pirra,  ia  a  flying  bridge,  sustained  by 
two  iron  chains  extending  fcom.  one  side  to  the 
other  of  the  precipice,  and  secured  in  the  TOcks. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CUAP.V.]  THE   IONIAN  ISLANO*.  1^1 

Travelers  feta^  of  crouing  this  bridge  tiane 
have  Ihetnselves  carried  by  the  inhabitants  (^ 
the  country;  an  office  that  it  frequently  per- 
ibrmed  by  the  women.  He  eastle  of  Cypkara, 
at  the  head  <^  the  river  Achd<xia»  which  for- 
meriy  marked  tiie  frontiers  of  Thessalyj  and  of 
tba  Aliiamanes,  is  nov  called  Kortm.  BeU- 
veu»  was  towardq  Turboli.  Behind  Mount 
Othryt,  in  frost  of  Trlkala,  as  &r  as  the  Phts- 
niVj  a  nv^  which  takes  its  rise  in  Mount  Otri- 
delecha,  and  falls  into  the  Peneus  nearly  (^ipo* 
site  to  Kukulios,  were  several  towns  of  wfaidi 
BO  traoes  are  now  to  be  found. 

The  capital  of  the  Pelasgiotis  division  was 
ZarUsa,  called  by  the  Turks  Jenishebir.  This 
city,  which  oontains  as  many  as  20^0  souls, 
and  was  formerly  the  capital  of  Thessaly,  is  built 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Peneus,  over  which  is 
s  well-built  bridge  near  the  mosque  of  Hass^- 
beg,  from  which  it  takes  its  name.  There  is 
also  a  suburb  to  the  left  o£  the  Peneus.  The 
environs  of  the  city,  which  is  situated  in  the 
centre  of  a  plain  extending  as  ftr  as  Mounts 
Otridelecha  and  Ossa,  are  extremely  fertile,  par- 
ticularly in  vineyards,  which  produce  wine  of  a 
very  good  quality.  Handsome  gardens  are  seen 
ranging  all  along  the  Peneus,  but  the  air  of  La- 
xissa  is  thick  and  unhealthy.  The  city  is,  how- 
ever, very  commercial^  and  holds  considerable 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


152  THE   IONIAN   ISLANDS.  [^CHAP.  V. 

&irs.  The  Binall  town  of  Alassona,  on  the 
southern  side  of  Mount  Kralichibvo,  formerly 
Mount  CittitUy  has  taken  the  place  of  the  an- 
cient Ohossum,  or  Ilesium.  This  small  town, 
situated  on  the  road  firequented  by  the  caravans 
coming  from  Laris^  to  Salonica,  carries  on  a 
groat  trade,  and  has  annual  fairs,  which  are  held 
in  the  summer.  The  village  of  Domenitza,  to 
the  S.  of  AlesBona,  and  situated  on  the  same 
river  formerly  called  Eurotas,  or  Curalitu,  was 
most  probably,  in  ancient  times,  Pheutus.  Be- 
tween Trikala  and  Larisaa,  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Feneus^  is  the  small  town  of  Zarico,  consist- 
ing of  about  800  houses.  Between  the  latter 
place  and  Votidi  the  ancient  PAocium  must  Jiave 
stood;  and  the  ruins  we  meet  near  Kutchukeso 
belonged  to  Pkagee.  The  umajl  town  of  Tur< 
navo  was  formerly  Atrax.  Cyretia  has  been  re- 
placed by  Tziritziana;  and  Myla  by  Levto- 
chori. 

The  district  of  Platamona,  which  comprehends 
the  country  of  the  ancient  Perrhehia,  dependent 
on  the  Pelasgiotis,  extends  as  far  as  Mount 
Olympus,  and  includes  both  banks  of  the  Pe- 
neus  as  iar  as  Mount  Ossa.  Flatamona,  capital 
<^  the  district}  is  a  strong  castle  built  on  the 
sea-side,  on  a  spot  where  Mount  Olympus,  in 
approaching  the  shore,  forms  a  narrow  defile. 
This  is  the  place  called  Stena  in  the  old  Itinera- 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.T.]  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  15S 

ries.  On  Mount  Olympus,  called  Olymbo  by 
the  Greeks,  and  SamavatEvi  (the  celestial  house) 
by  the  Turks,  formerly  were  Libetkra,  near  He- 
raclea,  and  now  called  Nesivo,  and  Elone  and 
Condylum,  situated  near  Urtziant  and  Raphtani. 
The  valley  of  Tempe,  at  the  present  day  called 
Lykostomos,'  which  commences  two  leagues 
from  Larissa,  and  vas  dependent  on  Perrhebia, 
is  now  as  wild  and  uncultivated  as  it  was  for- 
merly flourishing.  At  present  it  is  a  narrow 
neck  of  land  inclosed  within  naked  rocks.  On 
the  side  of  Larissa  there  are,  however,  villages 
in  a  tolerably  rich  state.  Argissa,  which  has 
preserved  its  ancient  name,  is  a  beautiful  village 
situated  between  Larissa  and  Seldkoi.  The 
castle  of  Phalanna  stood  near  to  Dirilli;  and 
Gyrton,  facing,  the  mouth  of  the  river  TJ/are- 
sius,  has  been  replaced  by  the  large  village  of 
Baba.  The  modern  village  of  Klisesi  stands  on 
the  ground  of  Mopsius.  Olmaleu  was  anciently 
called  Homilte,  and  Balamo,  Velatia.  Between 
the  village  of  Ambelaka,  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tifol  situations  of  this  part  of  the  country,  and 

*  Lycoatomofl  meant  the  wolTs  throat;  and  cert^nly  this 
modem  appellation  fornu  a  great  contrast  to  the  agreeable  idea 
presented  by  the  ancient  one.  The  Greeks  undoubtedly  must 
have  conferred  this  new  name  on  the  vaKey  of  Tempe,  be* 
cause  it  was  through  that  quarter  that  the  Turks  originally 
same  to  invade  their  country. — Ts. 
4 

L,  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


154  THB  lOKUH  ISLAN04.  [CHAP,  V. 

the  bridge  of  die  river  Salerabria  arc  ruio^ 
which  appear  to  have  belonged  to  the  aneient 
Elatia.  Gmnm  stood  on  the  spot  where  now  a 
haa  is  to  be  aeen,  near  to  the  bridge,  and  to  the 
left  of  the  Feneus. 

Thessaly,  properly  ao  called,  or  Tkestaliotis, 
extended  to  the  S.  of  the  river  Peneus,  sAaag 
Mount  Othrys,  or  Otridelecha,  from  the  river 
Fhcenix  as  &r  as  the  foot  of  Mounts  Oasa  and 
Felion.  -  This  country,  which  contains  the  dis- 
trict of  Czataldza,  and  a  great  part  of  that  of 
Larissa,  is  very  little  known,  particularly  in  the 
western  part.  The  small  town  of  Czataldza, 
which  is  the  capital,  standing  on  the  Zeitoun 
road,  near  the  margin  of  a  river,  which  must  be 
the  Enipeust  has  taken  the  place  of  the  ancient 
Crannon,  or  Cranum,  indicated  in  the  old  Itine- 
raries. A  little  to  the  N.,  and  towards  La- 
rissa,  is  the  village  of  Chalked<Hiio,  formerly 
Scotussa,  suinamed  Cynoacephala,  celebrated 
for  the  victory  gained  by  the  Consul  Qumctius 
Flamininus  over  Philip,  the  last  king  of  Mace- 
donia but  one.  To  the  S.  W.  of  Czataldza  is 
the  half-ruined  town  of  Pharsa  j  it  was  the  an- 
cient Pharsalia,  renowned  for  another  victory, 
which  destroyed  the  fortunes  of  Pompey,  and 
gave  the  empire  to  his  rival.  This  small  town 
is  situated  on  the  northern  side  of  Moui^t. 
Othrys;  before  it  flows  the  Apidano,  fbrmerljr 


.vGooglf 


CHAP.  V.3  THE   IONIA19    1S£.AND3,  155 

Apidanta,  and  beyond  are  the  plains  on  which 
this  decisive  battle  was  fought.  To  the  S.  of 
Fharsalia  coramenced  the  division  of  Phtiotis. 
To  the  W.  of  Fharsalia,  on  the  borders  of  the 
river  Enucasus,  which  is  a  branch  of  the  Api- 
danus,  formerly  Melitea  was  situated,  most  pro> 
bably  between  Alos  and  Risaisa.  It  is  imposr 
Bible  to  point  out  the  situations  of  the  other 
towns  which- anciently  existed  in  this  quarter. 

The  division  of  Magnesia  extended  along  the 
sea-coast,  on  the  furthest  sides  of  Mounts  Ossa 
and  Pelion.  The  town  of  Volo  was  not  the  ca- 
pital ;  it  was  a  small  town  called  lolosy  or  lolcos. 
At  present  it  is  a  town  tolerably  commercial,  si- 
taated  at  the  bottom  of  a  gulf  formerly  called 
Peiatgicus  SinuSj  with  a  small  castle  and  a  good 
port.  This  country  once  contained  several  very 
considerable  towns.  Magnesia,  which  had  given 
its  name  to  it,  situated  near  Cape  Scepias,  now 
Siki,  in  front  of  the  island  of  Skiato,  occupied 
the  place  where  Kontri- Ammo  now  stands.  Be^' 
tween  lolos  and  Pagata,  which  has  retained  its 
old  name,  was  Demetrias,  the  ruins  of  which 
have  contributed  to  enlarge  Volo.  PktEra^ 
known  through  the  celebrated  Alexander,  sur- 
named  of  Phers,  who  made  himself  its  sove- 
reign, has  been  r^laced  by  Velestin,  a  email 
town  siUiated  to  the  S.  of  a  lake,  and  the  ca- 
pital of  a  jurisdiction.    Round  this  lake  stood 

L  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


156  THE  IONIAN  lShAST>%  [CHAP.  T. 

the  ancient  Btebe,  -which  had  given  to  it  the 
same  name,  and  Cercinium,  perhaps  the  present 
Karla.  On  the  sea-side,  and  nearly  to  the  E.  c^ 
Larisaa,  Melibea  formerly  was  placed,  now  called 
Klaritza,  a  small  town  standing  to  the  S.  W.  c^the 
cape  of  this  name.  Between  Melibea  and  the 
mouth  of  the  Peneus  was  Erimna,  supposed  to  be 
thepresentMintzeli.  Below Melibea,aDdtoward9 
Cape  Scepias,  was  Rhisut,  now  Risa.  Between 
Melibea  and  Risa  were  found  Methone  and  Oly- 
xotiy  which,  in  all  probability,  have  been  replaced 
by  Fori  and  Zagoria.  Inland  was  i^curiumf 
now  Kastro-Siguro.  Between  Klaritza  and  La< 
rissa  is  the  castle  of  Fbanar-Kebir,  which  ap- 
pears formerly  to  have  been  Dotium.  It  is  the 
capital  of  a  jurisdiction  extending  as  far  as  the 
valley  of  Tempe.  To  the  S.  W.  of  Phanar- 
Kebir  is  the  small  town  of  Aja,  and  has  in  all 
likelihood  taken  the  place  of  the  ancient  Cth 
ronea.  Near  Risa,  Hipsut  and  Castanea  have 
partly  preserved  their  former  names,  aad  are 
called  Kisso  and  Kastania.  The  large  village 
of  Trichiri  was  anciently  Myonus.  Between 
Trichiri  and  Volo,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
latter  gulf,  were  also  known  Armenum  and  Man- 
tium.  Here  modern  Thessaly  ends.  This  coun< 
try,  which  contains  vast  plains,  is  in  general  fer- 
tile,  and  well  cultivated,  evoi  to  a  great  height 
on  the  declivities  of  Mount  Kralicbiovo.    The 


DiailizodbvGoOglf 


CHAP.  T.]  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  1  S'7 

districts  situated  on  the  Olympus,  Ossa,  and  Pe- 
lion  are  alone  in  great  measure  uncultivated 
and  woody. 

In  order  to  complete  the  description  of  an- 
cient Tliessaly  we  shall  subjoin  that  of  the 
Fhtiotis  division,  including  the  district  of  Zei- 
toun,  although  it  now  belongs,  as  we  have  before 
noticed,  to  the  Sandgiak  of  Egribos.  Zeitoun, 
the  capital  of  this  district,  is  a  small  town  at  a 
league's  distance  from  the  sea,  to  the  N.  of  the 
gulf  that  bears  its  name,  and  anciently  called 
Maliacus  Sinus.  It  carries  on  a  consi.derable 
trade,  l)^ng  on  the  road  from  Larissa  and  Salo- 
nica  to  the  Morea.  It  was  in  ancient  times 
ci^ed  LamuEy  and  built  on  the  Achelous,  or  the 
modern  Ellada.  AntkyrUy  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  this  river,  no  longer  exists.  The  traveller 
can  go  from  Zeitoun  to  IMiarsa  by  two  roads ; 
one  to  the  lefr,  through  Thavmako,  which  is  the 
ancient  Thaumaci ;  and  the  other  in  a  more  di- 
rect line,  passing  through  Ellas  and  Proema, 
villages  which  have  succeeded  to  two  places  of 
the  same  name.  To  the  N.  E.  of  Zeitoun,  on 
Mount  Othrys,  is  the  village  of  Erinei,  which 
must  correspond  to  the  ancient  Eretria  Phtio- 
tidis,  of  which  Livy  speaks,  (lib.  xxxiii.  cap. 
vii.)  On  the  gulf  of  Volo,  to  the  S.  of  Pa- 
gasa,  is  the  small  town  of  Armiro,  formerly  de> 
nominated  Tkebee  Phtiotica.     At  the  mouth  of 


.iiizodbvGooQle 


159  THE   IONIAN    ISLANDS.  [CHAP.  V. 

the  gulf,  and  near  the  connnencement  of  th,e 
cape  standing  in  front  of  Trichiri,  and  called 
Posidium,  or  Jpkita,  was  Antron,  now  changed 
into  the  village  of  Fetio.  Between  Armiipo  and 
Fetio  were  Pryasua  and  Ptelium.  Between 
Zeitoun  and  Cape  Fetio  were  successively  Ibund 
PhalerSy  now  Stalida ;  Eckmua,  which  is  £ch* 
mou }  AloSi  which  has  retained  the  name  of 
Aloti ;  and  Zarissa  Cremastc^  which  was  si* 
tuated  inland  between  Aloti  and  Armiro.  The 
district  of  Zeitoud  is  not  much  cultivated.  That 
of  Modunisb  comprehended  the  southern  part 
of  the  Fhtiotis  division.  Modunish,  situated  on 
the  foad  from  Zeitoun  to  Salona,  is  a  town  of 
some  consideration,  and  has  taken  the  place  of 
Heraclea  Trackinia.  Between  the  mouths  of 
the  Sperchius  and  Asopus  formerly  stood  NiceOf 
now  Nissa.  Broio  seems  to  have  taken  the  place 
of  Tkronium,  and  Mala  corresponds  to  Sctir- 
phia.  This  was  the  pass  of  Thermopyte,  &- 
mous  for  the  stand  and  patriotism  of  Leonidas, 
and  also  the  key  of  Greece.  The  road  from 
Mala  to  Livadi,  in  crossing  Mount  CEta,  passes 
by  a  dervent,  which,  in  all  probabilitf,  is  die 
site  of  (Eus.  The  Fhtiotis  division  extended  as 
far  as  the  sources  of  the  Sperchius  and  Aehe- 
louB,  and  comprehended  part  of  the  present 
district  of  Kerbenesh,  now  belonging  to  the 
Sandgiak  of  Lepanto.     At  the  head  of  theTiirer 


DiailizodbvCoOglc 


CHAP,  v.]  THE  IONIAN   ISLANDS.  159 

Sperchias  was  Sperchium,  now  the  small  town  of 
Karpenish,  and  Omila,  which  has  retained  its 
ancient  name.  Lower  down  were  found  Hy- 
pata,  which  appears  to  be  the  small  town  of  Fa- 
transeki,  and  Acypka  and  Megone,  now  known 
by  the  names  of  Kipho  and  Levterochori.  Near 
the  source  of  the  EUada  was  Parackehus,  now 
Called  N«0p3tra. 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


CHAFTKR  VI. 

Descript'wn  of  All  Packtit  Dominions  continued. 
— SandgiaksofKarli-Ili  and  L^anto. — Acar- 
nania.  — Sandgiak  of  Egribos. —  Delphot.  — 
Thebes. — Platea. — Athens, — Sandgiak  of  Mo- 
Tea. — Corinth. — Patras. — Gastuni. — EUs. — 
Olympia.'^  TripoUtza.  — Argos.  —  Napoli  di 
Romania. — Napoli  di  Malvasia, — Mistra. — 
Karon. — Arcadia. 

X  HE  soudiern  part  of  the  dominions  of  AU 
Pacha  comprehends  the  countries  which,  under 
the  Roman  empire,  were  called  Provinda 
Ackaia  and  Peioponesus;  that  is,  according  to 
the  adminiatrative  division  of  the  Ottoman  em- 
pire, it  consists  of  the  Sandgiaks  of  Karli-Ili, 
Ainabachti,  Lepanto,  Morea,  and  Egribos. 
We  shall  commence  our  descriptive  outline  of 
these  regions  by  the  western  part  and  the  gulf 
of  Arta. 

The  Sandgiak  of  Karii-Ci,  according  to  Had^ 
Chal&,  is  composed  of  the  jurisdictions  of  Pre- 
vesa,  now  dependent  on  Joannina ;  Agia-Maura, 
which  belongs  to  the  Seven  Islands  j  Vunidscba, 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAF.  VI.]         THB  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  16 1 

ocYonitfeaj  Ekseremere;  Enkili-Kastri ;  Altoj 
and  Abulahor;  This  given  extent  comprehends 
.  the  ancient  Acarnania,  An^hitochiay  and  part'of 
^toiiOf  to  which  the  four  last  jurisdictions  be^ 
longed. 

Ilie  Sandgiak  of  Ainabachti,  on  the  autho-  - 
rity  of  the  same  geographer,  contains  the  juris- 
dictions of  Ainabachti,  or  Lepanto ;  Karavari*. 
to  the  K  (^Lepanto;  Abukor ;  Olunduruk ; 
Golhissar;  an(l  Kerbenesh,  xir  Karpenish.  This 
same  Sandgiak  also  takes  in  the  remainder  of 
Etolia,  the  country  of  the  Athamanes,  and  part 
of  that  of  the  Locri-OxoUa. 

Amphilochia  was  a  small  district  laterally  de- 
pendent on '  the  jurisdiction  of  Vonitza  before 
this  place  fell  into  the  possession  of  the  Vene- 
tiansi  and  situated  to  the  E.  of  the  gulf  of 
Arta,  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Makronoro,  for- 
merly called  Olymput,  The  ancient  capital  waa 
Argoa,  surnamed  AmphUochicum.  The  modeni. 
.  Philokia,  a  small  but  well  peopled  town  o^  the 
'  river  Pogo,  or  InackuSy  of  Epirns,  is  not  exactly 
built  on  the  ruins  of  Argos,  since  these  are  seen 
-nearer  to  the  sea,  at  the  commencement  of  the 
Delta  formed  by  the  Pogo  at  its  mouth,  not  iar 
from  the  village  of  Xerakia.  Part  of  the  enor- 
mous blocks  of  marble  of  which  the  walls  of  the- 
ancient  A^os  were  composed  has  served  Alt 
Facha  to  <»nrtnict  the  new  fortress  of  Frevc^ 


.  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


16S  "not  IONIAN  OLAHfia.         [(WAV.  vc 

To  the  8.  (tf  Phitokia  we  find,  on  the  borden 
of  the  gulA  the  village  of  Balti,  which  was  fyf- 
merly  a  amall  fortreas,  called  Atpa.  The  vaU«f 
of  Fhilokia,  and  particultrly  the  country  rouod 
the  hiouth  of  the  Pngo,  is  well  cultivated,  but 
the  remainder  is  arid,  or  covered  with  wood. 

Acarnania,  called  by  the  Greeka  Xeromcros, 
or  aiid  country,  extends  on  the  S.  of  Ampki- 
locfaia,  between  the  sea  and  the  tiv^  Acheloaa. 
This  country,  properly  speakiog,  never  had  a 
itapital }  Vonitza,  which  is  now  the  principal 
town,  and  was  formerly  called  Limnea^  is  a  {^ace 
of  no  date  or  importance.  ThyrtEvm,  which  an- 
caently  existed  in  the  centra  of  Acamania,  is 
fliridrcly  destroyed ;  and  this  cptmtry,  subsitthig 
ia  a  state  of  absolute  anarchy,  and  its  inha- 
bitants, scattered  in  the  woods  and  rocks  of 
Mount  Manina,  or  Aracynthu*,  and  dwelling  in 
solitary  abodes,  has  not  a  single  tows,  or  even 
a  village,  unless  this  i^pellatkm  can  be  bestowed 
on  Sparto  and  Loutra.  On  a  rock  at  the  extrev 
mity  of  the  ct^e,  situated  to  the  N.  of  Vo- 
nitoa,  are  the  ruins  of  a  castle  called  Paleo* 
Kastro.  Tluiiwafttfac  ancient  ^naic^fnwn.  Op- 
posite to  Prevesa,  and  to  the  £.  of  Q^  Fi- 
galo,  along  the  sea-fAore,  Che  traveller  -fnUl  ea~ 
uly  discovw  the  ruins  of  a  ci^  of  a  squaraibm, 
of  which  Utit  walls  in  some  places  still  rise  as 
higb  as  9XK  feet ;  and  near  to  the  same  place,  in 


by  Google 


CMAV.  TI.]         VnC  MHIAM  IBtAfflM.  168 

tite  direction  of  C^  Vigalo,  arecbtf  to  be  boob 
tiie  rentftini  of  an  ancient  circua.  It  is  impos- 
flJMe  not  to  know  that  here  Acttum  Once  «tood. 
D'Anville  wafl,  conseqnently^oilateken  in  placing 
die  latter  cit^r  on  the  spot  ifUch  we  have  m-  . 
signed  to  Anaetorium.  Hie  latter  OMfJe,  si- 
tuated in  the  midst  of  rocks,  affitrds  no  conve- 
nient place  or  situation  tot  the  celebration  <^the 
Actian  games ;  whereas  the  ruins  of  which  we 
have  just  spoken  are  in  a  tolerabljr  large  plain, 
to  the  N.  of  which  is  the  eirbus  before  al- 
luded to.  AugQstin  built  the  town  of  Nico- 
polis,  sumamed  ActiOy  in  front  oi  Actium,  at 
(iie  expense  of  which  it  was  undoabtedly  peo- 
jded.  If  he  carried  It  higher  up  the  isthmus, 
whi<Ai  is  a  league  to  the  N.  o-f  Prevestt,  ft 
most  have  been  for  the  express  purpose  of  opert- 
JDg  a  second  communication  between  the  gulf 
and  the  sea,  and  with  a  view  to  establi^  therein 
a  more  convenient  port  than  that  of  Prevesa. 
Indeed  we  still  see  the  traces  of  the  canal  which 
the  Romans  had  begun  to  dig.  The  ruins  of 
mcopolis,  of  which  we  have  not  spoken  in  our 
cleBcription  of  the  Sandgiak  of  Josnnina,  in 
order  not  to  interrupt  the  thread  of  our  narra. 
tion,  chiefly  consist  of  the  ruins  of  a  fortress, 
vboee  walls  a^  stiU  under  a  state  of  good  pre- 
servatkin  m  many  j^aces.  In  the  interim  c£ 
this  fortress,  standing  near  tlie  ffla^n  of  the 
M  3 

ui.iiiz,,!:,.,  Google 


164  .THJs  lOKiAK  isLAm)a.      [chap,  vl 

ipil^  we  fliscover  the  remains  of,  a  Urge  build- 
ing, or  palace>  composed  of.  several  suites  <^ 
apartments  and  courts.  The  inner  walls  of  this 
.palace  are  of  brick,  but  the  marble  with  which 
they  were  cased  has  been  carried  away.  Rpund 
.tiie  main-  building  are  still  seen  the  remuns  of 
large  storehouses,  as  well  as  other  buildings, 
Mipposed  to  have  been  barracks.  From  this  for- 
tress as  far  as  near  Mityka  it  is  possible  to  follow 
the  traces  oi  the  ancient  walls  of  the  city.  Be- 
tween these  walls  and  Prevesa  the  ground  is 
filled  with  heaps  of  ruins,  extending  to  a  conu- 
derable  distance.  To  the  N.  of  the  fortress, 
at  the  distance  of  about  400  toises,  at  the  foot 
of  the  last  divergent  ridge  of  the  Cassiopian 
moDDtains,  is  a  theatre  in  good  preservation, 
and  near  it  the  remains  of  a  circus.  Between 
^e  theatre  and  the  fortress  are  the  perfectly  vi- 
sible traces  of  a  wide  and  deep  caoal,  com- 
mencing at  the  gulf,  and  already  bored  to  the 
distance  of  about  SOO  toises.  The  camp  of  Oc- 
tavius  was  between  Nicopolis  and  Louroj  and 
that  of  Anthony  towards  Salagora  and  Ambra- 
da.  The  naval  battle  was  fought  without  the 
.gnU";  the  fleet  of  Octavius  having  its  left  wing 
towards  Mytika. 

In  proceeding  along  the  coast  of  Acaroania, 
first  was  seen  the  castle  of  Dj/orictus,  pointed 
out  in  the  ancient  Itineraries ;  this  is  now  a 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


CHAP.  VI.]         THE   lONIAH   ISKANDS.  16S 

casde  in  a  ruined  state,  called  I^eo-Kastro, 
commanding  the  sea-shore  in  At>nt  of  St.  Mauri. 
After  Dyorictus  came  Phaiterutf  now  called 
Kondili.  More  to  the  S.  and  in  front  of 
die  island  of  Kalamo>  are  now^een  JE%igo  and' 
S<dion }  the  first  was  Alyzus,  or  Halyxm,  and' 
the  second  Sotium.  Jjovrfii  down  came  Portui' 
Att^cUA,  mod^^nly  named  I>agoinettro.  Be- 
t«eeri  the  latter  and  the  mouth  of  the  Ache- 
kAis*B8  ilMtAtu,  which  gave  its  ^lime  t»tbfl 
Echinadet,  now  called  the  Cmrzolari  Islands. 
l!^cIuBub  18 'distinguished  by  the  modecn-Dame  of 
pbrtPetala.    ^ 

ThC'  ancient  country  of  the  Atfaomenes,  si-: 
tiuted  near  the  soorces  ti€  the  Adielous,  was 
composed  <^  part  of  the  present  di^ricts  a£ 
TrUDilla»  in  ThessaJy,  and  of  Karpenish  and 
Abtilahofa  dependant  on  Lepanto.  It  was  a 
long  and  narn>w  vaUey  contiguous  to  the  Epi- ' 
rus,  Thessaly,  and  Etcriia:  The  cental  was 
Argithect  on  the  road  irom  Ambracia  to  Gom- 
phi  and  Tricca.  This  is  now  the  smaU  town  of 
Hrra,  etm  standing  on  the. same  route.  The 
wlude  of  this  country,  at  present  in  a  desert 
state,  and  filled  with  precipices,  contains  no> 
thing  but  village.  The  chief  of  these  are». 
Porta,  formerly  Petreunty  Korza,  correspond- 
ing to.  the  ancient  castle  of  Cyphara;  Todori- 
ana,  anciently  Teum  ;  Itoni,  formerly  Athena; 


DiailizodbvGoOglc 


146  TUB  IDHIAM.  IM,«HOI,         [CHAr..Tf. 

Fandio,  aacidntly  Fallat;  S^novigli,  fornaeriy 
JliidtM ;.  ArgiiOfKAitro,  anciently  ^noria  i  iind 
Milo*  kaown  by  the  ancieiit  name  of  AcanthW' 
.  The  Athamanet.  ^li»  of  the  Etdlians,  iinve 
tfxtreoidy  good  soldiers,  and  of  the  greatest  ser- 
vioe  to.  tbe  Bomans  during  the  first  Macedonian. 
war.  Thmx  country  is  now  a  pooir*  yrUdt  and 
little  frequented  range,  notwitlifltaiiding  it  U  si- 
tuated on  the  direct  route  fitnn  Tr&ala  to  Le> 
p(iltt»(  biit.&fl  road  is  n  bad  that  no  caravus 
can  travel  over  it. 

Tht  anoi««t,£talia  indudsd  the  leniaiader  of 
the  valley  of  the  Achelous,  or  Aspro-Potamo, 
ai  well  ■>  that  of  the  river  i>pwni(i>  or  Phidtri} 
nid  comequently  cocn|»ehcaded-  tbe  modon 
districts  of  Bnkib-Kastri,  Abukor,  Abulahor, 
Aho,  fixeremne,  and  Gfilhusar.  On  the  AdK* 
loufl}  imtaediatelj  below  the  country  of  the 
Atfaamaacs,  is  the  smail  town  of  Afauhhor,  fiir- 
tteriy  J^gamium,  situated  below  the  cmfltience 
of  a  river  uauing  from  the.  FindUs,  and  called 
Petitwnu.  Setween  Milo  and  Abulahoc  tbe 
Achelous  rcoeireB  anothei  rivfff,anciendy  named 
"NuttiiUt  fkom  tbeoiipellation  of  the  town  whtcfa 
wiginal^atDod  at  its  mouth.  Below  Afaulahor 
is  the  villbge  of  Kahsia,  whidi  has  takta  the 
pUoe  of  the  ancient  Chakit.  To  the  &  of 
the  latter  iminQdy  was  StrMiua^  tbe  capital  of 
tfce  ]^lian  Icagn^  oow  the  small  towB  of  £n^ 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


CKAP.  n.]      ran  imtA^  utxxttiA.  I6f 

kiti-Katttri,  and  the  chief  place  of  a  jurisdiction. 
Below  Enkili-Ktutri,  and  on  the  same  tivtt 
bank,  iB  Ivoria,  aneientl)'  Itheria.  Opposite  td 
thjc  village  in  that  of  Katoki,  supposed  to  have 
taken  the  ploae  of  Canape,  otherwise  denotni* 
Qated  jirsime.  Katoki  is  situated  a  little  above 
the  mouth  of  a  river  formerly  Called  Anafntt. 
At  the  month  of  the  Achelous  formerly  stood 
the  town  {^  (Emades,  once  extremely  cotnme^■ 
eial  and  well  peopled,  but  now  converted  into 
^e  small  place  of  Trigardoo,  to  which,  in  con- 
aequence  of  the  shoals,  vessels  eantiot  in  the 
prt9«tit  day  approach.  Above  Trigardon  the 
modem  Neochorio,  situated  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Achelous,  has  taken  the  place  of  Mnia; 
and  Arimvopoli  occupies  that  of  the  ancient 
Panium.  More  to  the  E.  was  Pleuron,  now 
Mastro.  Between  the  mouth  of  the  Achelous 
and  that  of  the  Ewenus,  on  an  island  situated 
in  the  middle  of  a  lake  formerly  called  Cynia,  is 
the  town  of  Anatoliko,  which  occnpies  the  pre- 
eincta  of  the  ancient  DuUche.  This  small  town 
carrier  on  a  considerable  share  e^  trade,  and  is 
one  of  the  principal  entrepots  of  the  gulf  of  Le- 
pjwto  and  the  Ionian  Islands.  Between  Ana- 
tcdiko^  Galata,  and  a  small  lake,  formerly  called 
Untaj  is  the  towh  c£  Mesalongi,  on  a  strip  f^ 
land  projecting  into  the  sea,  where  Pyltnut  once 
stood.    At  the  ffloutii  of  the  Phidari,  .on  die 


j,=,i,z<,dsvGoogIf 


IfiB  THE  IONIAN   ISLANDS.         [CBAP..TI. 

Spot  where  another  Ckalcit  existed,  faut  de- 
stroyed many  centuries  ago,  is  the  modem  Ga^ . 
lata.  A  league  higher  apon  the  right  buik  .of 
tl^e  same  river  of  Phidari  is  the  small  town  of 
Aita,  or  ADta,  the  capital  of  ajurisdictirai;  it 
was  anciently  called  Oenas.  Between  Aita  and 
Lepanto  is  Evreo-Kastro,  built  on  the  ruins  of 
Calydon,  celebrated  in  the  history  of  hei^c 
times  for  the  iatal  death  of  Meleager,.and  the 
hunt  of  the  wild  boar.  The  low  grounds,  where 
.this  hunt  took  place  still  exist  between  Aita  and 
Galata.  To  the  N.  £.  of  Lepanto,  and  on  the 
mai^n  of  the  Phidari,  is  the  small  town  of  Olon- 
duruk,  formerly  Halysama;  and  between  the 
latter  and  Aita  is  Makrino,  in  former  times  Ma- 
crynia. 

To  the  N.  of  Etolia,  on  the  furthest  side  of 
Mount  Moutzraki,  or  Tympkrestus,  not  fer  from 
the  sources  of  the  Sperchius  and  the  Cephism, 
.was  the  ancient  Ephyra,  most  probably  now  the 
small  town  of  Exeremere,  pointed  out  by  Hadgi 
Chalfa-  To  the  N.  of  Evreo-Kastro  is  a  lake 
formerly  called  tlie  lake  of  Triphofif  on  the 
borders  of  which  once  stood  the  towns  of  T<^- 
mus  and  the  castle  of  Pamphia,  now  Vrachori 
i^nd  Golhissar,  (castle  of  the  lake),  the  capital 
of  a  jurisdiction.  It  was  between  Vrachori  and 
Enkili-Kastri  that  the  town  of  I^s'tmachia  for-: 
marly  stood.    From  Evreo-Kastro,  in  ascending 


j,=,i,z<,d.vGoogk' 


CHAP.TI.]  THB  lOMIAN  ISLANDS.  169 

the  course  of  the  Phidati,  we  successively  r^eb 
-thesmftU  tovtis  of  Kirkineo,  Abukor,  and  Sa- 
panda,  which  stand  in  the  places  of  the  an- 
cient  Tichinum,  or  Cercinium,  JEgitium,  and 
CelUum. 

_.  The  country  of  the  Locrians  Ozoles  compre- 
hended not  only  the  districts  of  Lepanto  and 
Karavari,  but  also  that  of  Salona,  now  depen- 
dent on  the  Sandgiak  of  Egribos.  Ainabachti, 
Enebechti,  or  Lepanto,  now  called  by  the  Greeks 
Nepaktos,  and  celebrated  for  the  naval  victory 
gained  by  Don  John  of  Austria  over  the  Turks 
in  1571,  was  the  principal  town  of  the  Locrians 
OzcAes.  '  It  is  built  on  the  declivity  of  a  hill  de- 
scending as  &r  as  the  sea.  The  town  is  sur- 
rounded with  fortifications,  but  they  are  in  a  de-: 
cayed  state.  In  the  year  1494  Sultan  Bajazet 
caused  this  place  to  be  besieged  by  the  Kapudan 
Pacha*  and  Mustapha  Pacha,  Beglierbeg  of 
Roumelia.  TbeVenetianfleet  was  defeated,  and 
the  {dace  c^tured  the  same  year.  Ailer  the 
taking  o£  Lepanto,  Bajazet  caused  the  two 
castles  to  be  built  which  now  defend  the  en- 
trance of  the  gulf.  The  port  of  Lepanto  is  too 
small  to  admit  vessels  of  any  considerable  size ; 
they  are,  consequently,  obliged  to  anchor  with- 
out in  the  road,  or  in  front  of  Patras.    Along 

*  This  is  the  title  of  the  grand  admirsl  of  the  Ottomaa  - 
ileets.    He  is  oae  of  the  great  officers  of  the  empire.— Tk. 


3,a,l,;t!d'by,G00gIe 


170  THE  lOHIAM   HLAIfDS.         (OUAP.TI. 

the  sea-side*  in  asceading  towards  Salona,  mi 
&und  Evantia,  which*  by  the  distance  marked 
in  the  ancient  Itiaeraries,  must  have  beca  n- 
iuated  on  the  spot  where  the  modern  Kusmofdi 
stands.  Erithra  and  (Eneum  are  now  called 
Petrioneso  and  Psaromatia.  Inland  is  the  small 
lown  of  Karavarii  the  situation  of  which  cw- 
re^onds  to  that  ofPoti^ania.  At  the  entrance 
of  the  gulf  of  Salona  is  the  small  town  ctf  Gk- 
laxidi,  on  the  site  where  (Eontbe  once  was 
placed.  Within  the  gulf  was  Toiopbon,  now 
Porto  Longo.  The  last  town  of  the  Locriana 
Ozoles  was  Amphi$sa,  where  the  assembly  of  the 
Amphyctions  was  held.  It  is  now  Saicma ;  a 
town  carrying  on  a  considerable  trader  and  ai^ 
tUBted  oo.  the  road  from  Zeitoun  to  the  Morea, 
through  LepantQ. 

The  Sandgiak  of  Egubos  contains,  accordii^ 
to  Hadgi  Chalfa,  the  following  jurisdictions : 
£^bos,  or  Negropont,  situated  in  the  island 
of  this  name;  Kisilhissar,  Castel- Rosso,  orKa> 
rysto,  to  the  S.  of  the  island  oS  Negropont^ 
Oderbos,  a  castle  with  a  fort  to  the  N.  of  said 
island;  Izdin>  or  Zeitoun  ;  Modunish;  Talanda; 
Atina*  or  Athens ;  Egina,  in  the  gulf  of  tlie 
same  naipe ;  Mestube,  between  Megara  and 
Tbd>es ;  Esedabad,  to  the  N.  of  Livadi ;  Rubos, 
or  Orope  ;  Isti&,  Thivai,  or  Thebes ;  Salona ; 
Kephsa,  or  Kephisia ;  Megara.    The  jurisdic- 


_,  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


OAP.  n.^         TOM  IONIAN  U2.ANDS.  171 

tiont  of  Bgribos,  Kisilhistarj  end  Oderbos,  not 
fonning  part  of  the  dominion*  of  AH  Padia,  will 
Dot  eater  into  our  description. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Locrians  Ozoles  was  the  an- 
cient Doris,  situated  near  the  sources  of  the 
Cephisus,  now  called  the  Mavroner6,  and  cor- 
responding to  the  uf^er  part  of  the  district  a£ 
Bsedabad.  The  ancient  towns  of  die  Dorians 
were  Ac^kut  and  Erineus,  now  Kolobate  uid 
Paleo*KMtro.  The  situadons  of  Soum  and  of 
Cytldmtm  on  Mount  CEta*  or  on  Mount  Tym* 
pbrestus^  are  unknown. 

B^w  the  Phtiptia  division  of  ancient  Thes- 
saty,  along  the  sea-coaat,  and  in  the  district  of 
Talanda,  dwelt  the  Locrians  Epicnetnides  and 
Opuntii.  Thefirst  derived  their  name  from  the 
:  town  of  Cftemis,  the  ruins  of  which  exist  in  a 
[^ace  now  called  FaleO'KaBtro,  on  a  cape  in 
front  o£  Litada,  in  the  island  of  Negropont. 
Nearly  to  the  N.  of  Livadia,  at  the  bottom  of 
a  smallgutf  formerly  called  Opwitius  Sinus,  i& 
the  small  town  of  Talanda,  built  on  the  sea-side, 
at  the  fi>ot  of  Ae  ancient  Opusy  capital  of  the 
Opuntian  Locrians.  Talanda  has  probably  de- 
rived  its  name  fdm  the  island  of  At^lanta, 
w)iicb  is  near.  To  the  N.  of  Opus  was  Cynus, 
now  Kino,  situated  on  a  promontory.  To  the 
&  £.  of  Talanda,  on  the  Airthest  side  of  Mount 
Mesavioi,  or  Ptoon,  and  which  separates  it  from 


Doiizodiv  Google 


172  THE  lONIAK  IftAHDS.  [CHAF.  TI. 

Lake  Topolias,  is  Promina,  standing  in  the  place 
of  Upper  Lart/mna. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Opuntian  Ixicriaiis  and 
the  Dorians  was  the  ancient  Phocis,  which  cor- 
responds to  the  present  district  of  Esedabad, 
and  part  of  those  of  Salona  and  Thebes.  On 
the  margin  of  the  gulf  of  Lepanto*  the  first  port 
6f  Phocis  was  that  of  Bi//ts,  now  port  Janitza, 
at  the  fi>ot  of  Mount  I^oenix,  or  Citheron.  In 
following  the  same  direction  towards  Salona  we 
come  to  Aspropiti,  formerly  Antycira,  and  after- 
wards to  Mideon,  which  has  retained  its  originitl, 
name.  At  the  bottom  of  the  gulf  of  Satonaj 
and  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  descending  irom 
the  latter  town,  was  Cyrrka,  of  which  a  custom^ 
house  is  all  that  now  remains.  More  to  the  N. 
on  the  river  Plistusy  is  Krissa,  which  has  also 
retained  its  ancient  name  Of  Crissa.  At  a  small 
distance  towards  the  N.  E.  of  Krissa  was  the 
city  of  DelphoSi  celebrated  for  th&tera{^e  and 
oracle  which  'existed  there ;  at  presetit  it  is  a 
village  called  Kastri.  On  the  road  from  the 
latter  to  Livadia  we  find  Arakova,  whidi'faas 
taken  the  place  oi  Ambristus.  On  the  road  from 
Aspropiti  to  Livadia  is  Stiris,'  the  name  of 
which  has  not  been  changed.'  Between  Stiris 
and  Mideon  formerly  stood- TVacAu,  sow  Des-- 
tina.  Id  ascending  the  course  of  the  Cephisus, 
or  Mavronor6^on  the  road  from  Livadia  to  Za- 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


CHAF.  TI,]  THE  tOHI AN  ISLANDS.  179 

toun,  we  successively  pass  by  BasBo,  Mavro^ 
iaer6,  and  Skripo,  which  aDciently  were  Pano- 
puSf  PeripotamU,  and  Philobates.  Below  Skripo, 
al  a  small  distance  ^om  the  Cephisus,  is  Kia- 
pori,  anciently  Hyampolis.  On  the  road  lead- 
ing from  Al-akova  to  Zeitoun  we  meet  with  Li- 
kora  and  Doulia,  which  stand  in  the  place  of 
Licorta  and  DauUs>  On  the  direct  route  ftom 
Salona  to  Zeitoun,  after  passing  Mount  Lia> 
kora,  or  Parnasms,  wie  descend  to  Agoriani, 
formerly  Tithorea,  On  the  other  side  of  the 
Cephisus,  and  on  the  same  road,  are  Dadi  and 
Stouvala,  anciently  called  Amphidea  and  Lika. 
Between  Dadi  and  Doulia,  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Cephisus,  is  the  small  town  of  Turkochori, 
Cf(pital  of  the  district,  and  occupyjing  the  place 
of  die  ancient  Elatea. 

Xhe  districts  of  lliebea,  Rubus,  or  On^^ 
and  Liradia,  are  contained  within  the  ancient 
limits  of  Baotia.  Thebes,  now  called  Tbivai, 
Qz  Isti&,  retains  nothing  of  its  ancient  great* 
ness.  Hie  citadel  of  Cadmus  no  longer  exists ; 
and  this  ci^,  which  once  extended  on  the  de- 
clivity <^  Mount  Citheron  as  far  as  towards  Lake 
Hylia,  is  now  no  other  than  a  small  and  mean 
place.  To  the  N.  of  Beotia,  at  the  distance  of 
two  short  leagues  from  Livadia,  and  the  same 
from  Lake  Topolias,  or  CopaUy  is  the  small 
town  of  Kftprena,  formerly  Cheronea,  the  coun- 


j,=,i,z<,d.vGaogk' 


174  TBS  lOVIAll   ISLANDS.         [CRAP.  TT. 

tfj  of  Plutarch,  and  ftrnpus  for  the  victocy 
gained  by  Philip,  ^ther  of  Alexander,  over  tin 
Athenians.  On  the  left  bank  of  the  Cephisos, 
and  at  a  small  distance  from  its  mouth,  i^ch  is 
extremely  marshy,  the  ancient  Orckamena  ww 
Htuated,  where  Sylla  obtained  a  victory  Itmg 
disputed  with  Mithridates  the  Great.  Along 
the  southern  margin  of  Lake  Copals  were  AlaU 
cotaena  and  HaUarte  ;  the  first  is  now  called  Ka- 
lamatftj  and  the  second  is  the  small  town  of  Tri. 
donni.  To  the  S.  £.  of  Kaprena  stands  livadia, 
.corresponding  to  the  ancient  Leiadea.  This 
town  which  in  modern  geography  gives  it 
name  to  the  ancient  province  of  Aehaia,  is  not 
even  comprised  within  the  districts  of  the  Sand- 
giak  of  EgriboB,  as  they  are  laid  down  by  HjK^ 
Chalfa.  Between  Uvadia  and  Thebes,  and  on 
the  right  of  the  road,  is  the  small  town  of  <Sra- 
nitsa,  which  has  succeeded  to  the  ancient  Oo- 
renea.  It  is  situated  on  an  elevation,  at  the 
toot  of  which  flows  a  river  formerly  ciUled  La- 
mus,  issuing  from  a  lake  at  the  foot  of  Mount 
Helicon,  which  aflerwards  loses  itself  In  a  chasm 
near  Livadia,  to  the  S.  On  the  eastern  decli- 
vity of  Mount  Helicon  is  the  small  town  of 
Enmo-Kastro,  Gxmerly  ThespicE,  To  the  W.  of 
the  latter,  not  &r  from  Neochorio,  and  near  the 
lake  above  alluded  to,  was  Aiera;  perhaps  it 
ittrrdsponds  to  Neochorio  itself.    To  the  E.  rf 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


ttMAP.  VL^         THE  IONIAN  IBLARM.  175 

i^proptti,  and  io  the  vicinity  of  a  village,  are 
tlie  ruins  which  belonged  to  ThitBe.  llie  two 
villsges  of  Agia  and  Dompo,  situated  between 
l^^^t  Janitza  and  Livadostio,  occupy  the  p^- 
ritiona  where  Siphdix  and  Cretait  once  stood. 
The  port  of  Livadostro  was  anciently  that  oS 
Lettctra ;  and  near  Port  Fsato  was  the  smaU 
town  of  Pagay  the  ruins  of  which  are  still  to 
be  seen  on  the  sea-side,  to  the  W.  of  the  latter 
place.  In  the  valley  which  stretches  fi-om  Port 
livadostro  towards  Kokla,  Leuctra  was  formerly 
situated,  the  theatre  of  one  of  the  triumphs  of 
E^Muninondas  over  the  Lacedemonians :  but  few 
traces  of  it  are  now  left  To  the  N.  W.  of  the 
sm^  town  of  Erimo-Kastro  is  the  village  (^  Si. 
Qeoige,  which  has  taken  the  place  of  the  an- 
cient castle  of  Cerestus.  The  mountain  tmag, 
between  Eriino*Kastro  and  Thebes  is  that  oa 
Wiich  dwelt  the  Sphynx,  conquered  by  Oedipus. 
At  the  Hmttom  of  Lake  Topolias,  towards  the 
£.,  formerly  stood  Telphosum,  now  Hungaro. 
Between  the  latter  and  Mouiki,  near  a  church 
radled  Montzaraki,  are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient 
castle  oWnchestus.  To  the  N.  E.  of  Hungaro 
is  the  small  town  of  Kokino,  near  lake  TopoUaa, 
which  has  replaced  Acrephia.  The  ruins  lying 
to  the  N.  £.  of  the  Theban  lake  are  those  of 
HyUa,  whi^  gave  its  name  to  this  lake.  The 
lake  of  TopoKas  communicated  with  the  sea  by 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


176  THT  IONIAN   ISLANDS.  [cHAP.' Vi; 

meaosof  two  canals,  which  the  Thebans  kept  in 
the  best '  order,  with'  a  view  to  prevent ;  iaunda^ 
tions ;  they  are  called  by  the  modern  Greeks 
Kata-Vathra.  At  the  mouth  of  these  canals  an- 
ciently was  situated  Larymna  Inferior,  now 
Skriponeri.  In  following  the  direction  of  the 
sea-coast,  after  passing  the  mouth  of  the  small 
lake  of  Tkingros,  we  find  the  village  of  Lokisi; 
which  has  taken  the  place  of  the  ancient  An- 
the^n.  In  fi-ont  of  Egribos,  and  at  the  bottom 
of  the  bay,  to  the  N.  of  whidi  stands  the  ibrt 
tS  Kara-Baba,  built  at  the  extremity  (^  the 
bridge  over  the  £uriptu,  formerly  was  Aulis ; 
but  no  vestiges  remain  of  this  city,  so  celebrated 
for  being  the  rendezvous  of  the  Greek  fleet  pre- 
vious to  the  seige  of  Troy;  and  the' sacrifice  of 
^hjgenia. 

Egribos,  or  Negropont,  corresponding  to  the 
ancient  CAateV, 'capital  of  Eubaea,  wals  captured 
in  the  year  1462  by  Mahomet  II.,  who  btsieged 
it  by  knd  whilst  his  Vizir,  Mahmud  fticha; 
preyed  it  by  sea.  It  was  taken  by  assault,  in 
si^t  of  the  Venetian  fleet  which  had  come  to 
succour  it.  To  the  S.  of  the  town  is  tfie  port  «f 
Negropont,  corresponding  to  that  of  Aulis,  and 
capable  of  containing  400  vessels  under  go<>d 
shelter  j  but  the  port  opening  to  the  N.  of  the 
town  is  by  no  means  so  secure.  Mahmud  Pacha 
caused  the  bridge  to  be  built  wbidi  now  unites 


_,  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


CBAP.TiO  THE  IONIAN   ISLANDS.  177 

S^ibos  to  the  continent*  having  a  dcaw-bri^e 
in  the  centre.  He  alao  constructed  the  ibrt  of 
Kara-Baba-bissar.  Between  Egribos  and  Thebes 
wasSchanugt  no«  Spahidcs;  and  between  the 
latter  and  Kara-Baba,  towards  the  N.,  was  My-, 
cakasust  of  which  no  traces  are  now  to  be  found. 
Oropm  and  Tanagra  have  nearly  preserved  their 
ancient  names.  The  modem  »nall  town  of 
Orppo,  called  Rubus  by  the  Turks,  is  the  capi- 
tal of  a  district ;  and  between  it  and  Egribos  ia 
the  village  of  Dramich,  built  on  the  ruins  of 
Teun^sMta.  A  small  river  flowing  from  N.  to 
S.^  and  idling  into  the  Asopo  above  Tanagra,  is 
the  ancient  Thermodottt  on  the  banks  of  whielt 
Tlieseus  overcame  the  Amazons.  At  the  head 
of  the  Asopo,  or  Asopus^  near  the  village  of 
Kokla,  are  the  ruins  of  Platea.  It  is  in  the 
plain  extending  to  the  N.  of  the  latter  place  as 
&r  as  the  Asopo  that  the  celebrated  battle  of 
Hatea  yras  fought,  in  which  the  defeat  o£  a  nu- 
merous Persian  army  saved  the  Greeks  from  sla- 
very. Vilia,  a  little  more  to  the  S.,  probably 
corresponds  to  the  ancient  Hysiet.  On  the 
southern  declivity  of  Mount  Cpkeron^  now 
called  Mount  Elathea,  was  the  ancient  Ela^ 
ijktr^i  but  its  exact  situation  cannot  be  assigned. 
It,  however,  appears  to  have  stood  on  the  ^)ot 
iriiere  the  ruins  of  a  fortress  are  still  to  be  seen, 
to  tb6  N.  of  KoDdoura.    Erytkra^  formerly  st- 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


I7A  tve  wsvai  nc&ifBA      [crai^w. 

tuated  sC  d  sm^l  dfettuce  ftom  t^  r^hfi  baak 
ef  the  Asopua,  has  probaUj  been  meceeded  by 
Cbidessi. 

The  diatricts  of  Atbens,  Mestube,  ILe^ama^ 
and  Megiuv,  eomprefaended  tlie  aneiest  AttitiK 
and  Megarn.  Atbees,  which  wsb  ^eir  c^ta], 
WAS  t^en  hy  Timurtash  I^teho,  e»&  ef  Bajaaet's 
generals,  in  the  ywt  137S.  Thia  renMnied  citf 
waa  th<m  so  noueh  [Pandered  and  destroyed  hf 
Ae  Tarka,  that  they  reduced  it  fiothe  deplwvble 
fftuatkm  itt  which  it  bow  stands.  The  long 
walls  which  led  i^om  the  cHy  to  the  two  pof  ts, 
Ifae  intervals  of  which  were  fflted  up  with  magm- 
ieent  houtes  and  pnMic  monaments^  have  long 
^iffiMBted  to  the  ^  no  otherthatt  a  series  ^raHH 
and  bea^  of  fragoienta.  The  town  is  now  no* 
thing  more  than  a  meaR  i^oe^  stirroiiDdiii^  th* 
ekadel*  and  be»^g<t!be  aapectx}f  miaepf  amidM 
the  piles  of  ruins  with  which  ii  ia  envebpe^ 
No  traces  can  be  found  of  the  celebrated  Ac»- 
demy,  the  Lyceum,  the  CeratnicHs,  or  of  the 
town  of  Colonos,  where  Oedipus  came  to  end 
his  days.  The  village  of  Ceratmts  h,  hortre^fefy 
stiU  inhabited,  and  called  Sepolia.  The  port  of 
Firaui  Is  at  present  known  by  tlie  namo  oS  P^att 
Lion }  and  that  of  Phalerus  is  tenned  Vott  St. 
Nichf^as,  or  Phanari.  The  island  of  Seluais  is 
called  Kolouri  ;  and  near  to  the  village  of  Am^ 
belaki  are  the  ruins  of  the  town  of  Sakmu.    ft 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


CHAP.  VI.}         Tax   lOHlAM   ISLANDS.  179 

was  in  the  atxtdt  between  the  island  of  Salamis 
and  tbe  promontory  formed  by  the  continent, 
and  between  Athens  and  Daphni,  that  the  naval 
bottle  of  Salamina  was  fought.  The  Greek  fleet 
wm  in  tbe  road  of  Eleusis,  and  that  of  the  Per- 
Sana,  so  infinity  superior  in  the  number  of 
vessels,  was  between  Egina  and  Salamina.  With- 
OBt  the  stratagetn  of  Themistocles  the  Persians 
would  never  have  attacked  tbe  Greeks,  and 
tfaH  capital  fault  was  the  cause  of  their  defeat. 

AlfMig  tbe  eastern  coast,  immediat^y  beyond 
Oopo,  we  approach  the  small  viHage  of  Ka- 
huno,  built  a  little  above  the  ancient  Delphi- 
mum,  which  stood  on  the  sea-side.  Afterwards 
followed  the  peninsula  of  Ckersonesus,  in  which 
was  the  castle  of  Rkamnut,  now  replaced  by  the 
small  town  of  Evreo-Kastro.  To  the  S.  of  the 
latter,  at  tbe  distance  of  a  short  league  from 
&e  sea,  is  the  small  town  of  Marathon,  situated 
on  a  large  rivulet  which  forms  a  marsh  between 
Marathon  and  the  sea ;  this  rivulet  corresponds 
to  the  ancient  Erasinus.  To  tbe  N.  W.  of  Ma- 
rathon is  seen  the  modem  village  of  Kapendritti> 
formerly  Trisorytkus,  It  was  in  the  valley  be- 
tween Kapendritti  and  Marathon  that  the  fa- 
mous batfle  between  tbe  Athenians  and  Persians 
was  fought.  Brauron,  originally  situated  on 
the  southern  side  of  the  mouth  of  the  river  Era- 
ttnus,  is  now  Vronns.  To  the  S.  of  Cape  Ka- 
N  2 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


]80  THE  IONIAN  ULAXDB.  [cHAF.  TX. 

valo,  which  anciently  bore  the  name  of  Cywh 
iura,  i*  Port  Baphti,  formerly  Panormm  ;  and 
on  the  peninsula  to  the  N.  of  the  Utter  part  are 
the  ruins  of  Prasia.  ^e  port  of  Maodri  cor- 
responds to  that  of  ThoriaUt  of  whidi  the  nuns, 
called  by  the  present  inhabitants  Theriko,  are 
to  be  seen  to  the  W.  Potamus  was  a  port  a 
little  to  the  N.  of  Mandri.  In  front  of  Tberiko 
is.  the  island  of  Makronisi,  formerly  Macrit,  or 
Helena.  Cape  Sunium  is  now  called  Qq>e  Ko- 
lonni,  which  name  is  derived  from  the  rums  of 
the  temple  of  Minerva  Sunias,  still  to  be  seen 
at  the  extremity  of  the  cape.  To  the  W.  of  the 
cape  is  the  island  of  Gaidaro-Nid,  formerly  P*- 
trocUt.  In  ascending  tow^s  the  N.,  and  ia 
the  direction  of  the  coast  belonging  to  the  gulf 
of  E^na,  the  first  village  we  meet  is  that  t£ 
Elimbo,  at  a  small  distance  from  t^e  sea.  This 
village  stands  in  the  place  of  the  ancient 
Axone't  and  opposite  is  the  island  of  Eletuut 
now  Klisa. 

The  villages  of  Vari  and  Lombriko,  to  the  N. 
of  Elimboi  have  succeeded  to  Thorea  and  £001* 
pra.  In  this  vicinity  also  is  Cape  Halikes,  tcx- 
merly  Zostery  as  well  as  the  island  of  Phalkoudi, 
anciently  called  Hydrtaa.  Between  this  c^e 
and  Athens  is  still  another  village,  called  Tra- 
kones,  which  stands  in  the  place  of  Msone. 
Between  Athens  and  Eleusina,  now  called  Lcf' 


DiailizodbvCoOglC 


CUAP.VI.3         TkE  IONIAN   ISLANDS.  191 

tina,  is  discovered  the  village  of  Daphni,  which 
has  preserved  its  original  name ;  also  Megara, 
now  a  small  town,  and  capital  of  a  jurisdiction, 
and  situated  on  an  elevation  a  quarter  of  a  league 
from  the  sea.  Its  port,  near  which  was  the 
castle  of  Nysa,  is  now  destroyed,  and  forms 
nothing  but  a  bay.  From  Megara  a  difficult 
road,  leading  along  the  Scyronian  rocks,  now 
called  Kali-Skala,  proceeded  to  Corinth,  through 
Crommyon.  Another  road,  not  less  difficult* 
passed  over  Mount  Geranea,  now  called  Faleo- 
Vouni,  through  TripodizaU,  where  a  dervent  is 
at  present  situated.  A  third  road  led  to  the 
port  of  PagflB,  through  a  defile  of  Mount  Ma- 
kriplai,  which  bore  the  name  of  Mgosthena,  ot 
the  deffle  of  the  goat.  Between  Megara  and 
Eleutherie,  and  beyond  the  defile  now  called 
Diskala,  was  the  small  town  of  Rhus,  modemly 
called  Kondura.  To  the  N.  of  Eleusina  were 
Thriaj  (Enoe,  and  the  castles  of  Panactum  and 
Phyla ;  at  present  the  three  first  places  are 
called  Kocha,  Vlachochori,  and  Yegna,  and  the 
mios  of  Phylaa  exist  to  the  N.  of  Kocha.  Above 
Athens,  on  the  Cyphisus,  at  the  firot  of  Mount 
Penteli,  or  Pentelictu,  is  the  small  town  of  Ke- 
pbisia,  or  Kephsa,  the  capital  of  a  jurisdiction. 
Tliis  place  has  retained  its  ancient  name,  which 
was  Cephisia.  The  other  places  of  ancient  At- 
tica, whose  positions  may  be  pointed  out  with 
3 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


IBS  THE    IONIAN    UtI.ANIll.  [CHAF.  VI. 

any  degree  (^precision,  are  G^hyra,  Trinemciit 
and  the  castle  of  Decelta.  The  two  first  cw- 
respond  to  the  situations  of  the  modem  Vari> 
dobi  and  Menidi,  and  the  third  was  where  a 
church  now  stands  dedicated  to  St  Marc,  at 
the  foot  of  Mount  Nozea,  or  Parties^  and  to 
the  N.  of  Varidobi. 

PeIoponesus>  or  the  Morea,  in  the  adminietoa> 
tive  distribution  of  the  Ottoman  empire,  forms 
two  Sandgiaks.  That  of  Morea,  properly  so 
called,  corresponds  to  that  of  Miaistra ;  but  as 
generally  there  is  only  only  one  governor  ther6, 
Hadgi  Chal&  estimates  this  peninsula  as  only 
one  Sandgiak,  to  which  he  attributes  28  juris* 
dictions,  although  its  enumeration  does  dot 
contain  more  than  23.  These  jurisdicti<ms  are, 
Kordos,  or  Corinth  ;  Kalsverta,  or  KfJavritta  \ 
Vistidscba,  or  VostitKa;  fialiabadra,  Bbdrad- 
schick,  or  Patras ;  Hulomidsch,  or  Castel-Tor- 
nese }  Phanari  \  Fhirina,  now  ciUled  Tripolitza  \ 
Kartina,  or  Karitena ;  Londar,  or  Londari ;  Ar- 
ha$,orArgos;  AnaboB,  or  Napolidi  Romania; 
Aja- Petri,  or  Prasto ;  Mi^ra,  or  Miatra ;  M6b- 
gesche,  Of  Napoli  di  Malvasia ;  Ri^a,  or  Castel- 
Ratnpano;  Maina ;  Kalamata ;  Andorossa,  or 
Androussa;  Koron  j  Motun,  or  Modon;  Ava- 
rin,  or  Navario  ;  uid  Arkadia. 

The  first  attempts  of  the  Ottoni^B  on  the 
Morea  took  place  in  1432,  When  Sukwi  Morad 


J.,r,l,z<»i:,.,G00gIf 


(WAf.v<b.3      TUB  nmua  jwuAirnh  isp 

ac  .Amurat  It  hiA&iege  to  And  ^woed  tiie  v«U 
fortified  with  five  bastions,  und  rnwnted  witl) 
«ftQDonp  which  d<&nded  tjie  entrance  of  lA« 
ifithmui.  It  was  tt  this  period  that  tb«  city  nf 
Coriatib  was  tak«n  snd  pillaged.  The  <>tt»- 
aiaas,  oeverthelese,  did  not  then  penetrate  into 
the  interior  of  the  coantiy.  In  144fi,  T"r^np- 
bog,  a  Tufkisfa  admiral^  ravaged  the  cowts  of 
the  Motva,  and  there  took  several  csstltf,  par- 
iioularly  in  Argojis.  In  1452,  Sultan  M^ 
faammed,  Smperor  of  the  Ottomans,  effected 
the  conquert  o£  At  Morea,  and  reduced  it 
tmdw  his  dominioD,  with  tiie  exceptiov  ot 
Modon,  Koron,  Navarin,  and  Napoli  di  Bo- 
JBania,  which  remained  to  liie  VeneUens.  These 
^aoes  were  not  taken  till  the  tine  of  Bajazett  m 
ve  shall  notice  in  our  description  of  the  Mjotca. 

I^oponesus  was  formerly  divided  into  seven 
provinces,  viz.  Coiinthia,  Sicyooia,  Acbu4>  E^l, 
•yiiaiA  included  the  uicient  Triphylia.  Arcadia> 
Ai^golis,  Laconia,  wad  Messrata. 

Corinthia  and  Sicyonia  comprehended  <Mily 
dit  modem  district  of  Kordos.  C<Minlh,  which  lis 
the  capitid,  is  now  noother  than  a  mean  t9wn,  cr 
tafcber  an  asseniblage;  of  several  groupG  «f  houset) 
scattered  on  the  nortiiem  declinty  j»f  M^ufl^ 
Pbouka-;  on  a  divfergetut  ridgeof  which  is  the 
Acro-C«rittihus,  a  citsdei  guanled  by  tfre  Turfcs 
with  the  gnsatMl  jaatonsy,  and  whetie  no  strtw- 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


184  THE  lOVIAir  nZ^UIXlS.  [CHAP.Vt. 

ger  is  alltffred  to  ascend.  \  The  port  of  Lech- 
euntt  which  was  that  of  the  Corinthians  and 
situated  in  the  gulf  of  Corinth,  is  now  no  more 
than  the  place  of  a  custom-house,  situated  in  a 
baywhereare  still  to  be  seen  the  remainsof  an  an- 
cient  pier  or  landing-place.  To  the  N.  of  Corinth 
is  Cape  Malangara,  anciently  Olmia,  forming  a 
species  of  peninsula  and  extending  from  £:-to  W. 
At  the  extremity  of  the  cape  is  the  church  of 
St.  Nicholas,  which  has  taken  the  place  of  the 
temple  of  Juno  Acrea.  On  the  promontory  the 
village  of  Perakora  or  Pera-Chori  has  succeeded 
tb  the  ancient  Pirmts.  Loutro-Chori,  where 
there  are  hot  mineral  springs,  corresponds  to 
the  ancient  Therma ;  and  Agriiio,  on  the  sea- 
side, occupies  the  place  of  Oneum.  On  the  raad 
from  Corinth  to  Thebes,  through  the  mountain, 
is  the  vUlage  of  Miniez,  situated  on  Mmint 
Pale©-Vouni ;  it  was  formerly  c^ed  Itthmtu* 
The  road  from  Corinth  to  Megara  by  the  Scy- 
ronian  rocks,  passed  by  Schcenus  and  Sidiu. 
The  ruins  of  the  first  plape  are  still  to  be  seen 
at  the  distance  of  a  league  to  the  N.  of  Kenchri, 
not  &r  from  the  shore,  and  to  the  W.  of  port 
Kalamachi.  Sidus  is  now  called  Soussa-Kevi, 
and  has  a  E«naU  port.  Cenckrets,  a  port  of  the 
Corinthians  on  the  gulf  of  Egina,  is  still  a 
large  village  called  Kmchri,  having  two  potts, 
one  of  which  is  that  of  Keocfari  wb^e  a  cus- 

/ 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


chat:  VI.]  THE  lONIAK  ISLANDS.  185 

tom-house  is  kept,  and  the  other  is  port  Sultani. 
The  wall  which  defended  the  eptrance  of  the 
isthinus  commeiiced  at  the  ^ulf  of  Egina 
behind  a  marsh  near  the  ruins  of  Schcenus,  and 
ended  on  thegulf  of  Lepanto,aIso  behind  a  marsh 
half  way  between  Loutro-Chori  and  Corinth. 
Its  whole  extent  was  about  3500  toises.  On  the 
side  of  the  gulf  of  Egina  a  canal  had  been 
commenced,  measuring  about  300  toises;  but 
it  is  not  known  whether  this  work  was  under- 
taken for  the  purpose  of  uniting  the  two  seas, 
or  with  a  view  to  add  to  the  defence  of  the 
wall,  the  front  of  which  was  already  covered 
by  a  low  and  wet  range  of  ground.  The  wall 
had  two  gates,  one  on  the  margin  of  the  gulf 
of  Lepanto  leading  to  the  roads  of  Pagee  and 
Thebes  through  the  mount^uns ;  and  the  other 
to  the  W.  of  the  ruins  of  Schoenus  opening  to 
the  road  of  Megara  through  Soussa-Kevi. 
Soon  after  the  capture  of  Corinth  by  Amurat  II. 
the  Turkish  admiral,  Umurbeg,  being  unable  to 
enter  into  the  gulf  of  l«panto  through  the 
strait,  caused  his  vessels  to  be  carried  over  the 
isthmus,  and  having  appeared  unexpectedly  ia 
die  gulf,  he  burnt  alt  the  vessels  that  could  be 
found  there,  and  came  out  through  the  strait 
About  a  league  and  half  to  the  £.  of  Kenchri, 
ve  find  a  small  port  called  Chieries,  or  Sidero, 
near  to  a  village  in  former  times  called  Solygia. 


.^    ,l,z<,i:,.,G00gIf 


186  TH£  imfiAN  lUAMBB.      [ev.tf.r& 

On  Mount  Sophiko  or  Mgeat^  is  tke  village  of 
S^hiko,  which  hfu  taken  the  place  of  die 
ancient  Rhetum.  To  the  W.  of  Corinth,  on 
the  river  of  Netnea,  &rmerly  were  EpUcus  and 
Ternea^  situated  on  the  present  positions  of  two 
villages,  one  of  which  is  called  Kortessa. 

Sicyona  is  now  called  Yasiliko,  a  small  towo 
constructed  on  an  elevattoa  at  the  entrance  of  a 
promontory,  to  the  £.  of  which  was  its  port 
known  by  the  ancient  name  of  Olymnium.  la 
the  province  of  Sicyonia  formerly  were  known 
the  towns  of  Therandot  PhiiuSf  and  Titanai 
the  first  is  now  called  JCila,  the  second  Stir 
Phili,  rained  by  the  ^banians  in  1770,  and  im 
the  place  of  the  third  is  a  dervent,  situated  on 
the  road  from  Vaailiko  to  Kalavritta. 

The  andent  Achaia  comprehended  the  mo- 
dem districts  of  Kalavritta,  Vostitza,  and  Fatras. 
The  district  of  Vostitza  extends  along  the  sea 
coast  as  &r  as  near  Vasiliko.  This  range  of 
coast  formerly  so  flourishing,  is  now  almost  m-  a 
desert  state,  and.  the  greatest  part  of  the  towns 
which  existed  there  have  been  destroyed  and 
no  traces  whatever  are  lefb.  Voititza,  capital 
of  the  district  and  occupying  the  place  of  the 
ancient  Mgium^  is  a  town  of  but  little  impor- 
tance. To  the  E.  of  Vostitza  is  the  village  of 
Tripia,  formerly  Heiice;  and  on  the  road  of 
Kalavritta   is    Kanti,    correspondii^    to    the 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


OnAT.  T1.J  -CHE  IONIAN   ISLANDS.  187 

ancifHit  Ctrijna.  Krata.  situated  on  the  sea* 
side  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Crat/ue,  holds  the 
jizcR<jfJEgia;  and  the  small  town  of  Fenlitza 
18  built  on  the  ruins  of  Bum.  In  the  narrow 
passage  of  Mount  CgHeno  or  Trikala,  on  the 
maigin  of  a  ri^et  called  the  Styx,  to  the  S. 
of  Pernitza  and  the  £.  of  Kalavritta,  fonnerlj 
stood  Nonacrist  now  Naukria,  and  situated  on 
the  con&ies  of  Arcadia.  In  the  place  of 
jSgirOt  some  years  ago  was  to  be  seen  the  small 
toirn  of  Xilo-Kastro,  destroyed  in  1770,  and  of 
irhicfa  the  ruins  now  only  remain.  Pelkne  was 
also  situated  in  this  canton,  not  &r  fitun  where 
the  village  of  Doucfaa  now  stands.  Baliabadra, 
Badradgik  or  Patxas,  ibnnerly  Patree  and  more 
anciently  Aroe,  is  the  principal  city  of  this 
country.  It  is  a  place  possessed  of  a  consider- 
able portion  of  trade  and  riches,  notwidistand- 
ii^  the  disatiers  it  experienced  in  the  year 
1770.  Its  port  is  in  reality  nothing  more  than  a 
road,  aad  at  all  times  by  no  means  secure,  which 
frequently  obliges  the  vessels  to  take  refuf^e 
ia  Zante  and  Cephalonia.  It  is  defended  by  a 
castle  atuated  to  tbe  N.  which  was  takoi  by 
Sultan  Mobanuned  or  Mahomet  II.  in  1-451. 
Two  leagues  to  N.  £.  of  Patras  is  the  strait 
caUed  the  DardaieUes  of  Lqianto.  At  titc 
estreaaty  of  the  two  promontories  forauDg  this 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


188  THE   IONIAN   ISLAXOn.         [CHAP.TI. 

Strait  wer«  buiJt,  in  the  year  1495,  the  castlei 
vhich  defend  the  entrance,  as  we  have  already 
bad  occasion  to  notice.  The  village  near  which 
the  castle  of  Morea  has  been  constructed  was 
formerly  called  Rhium,  and  tlie  one  on  the  op- 
posite  side  Antirrhium.  These  two  castles, 
which  have  scarcely  been  repaired  since  the  time 
of  their  erection,  are  in  an  extremely  decayed 
condition,  badly  armed,  and  still  worse  de- 
fended. Between  Rhium  and  Patras,  formerly 
stood  Mesotity  modemly  called  Sicheno.  To 
the  E.  of  the  oastle  of  Rhium  is  a  gulf  or 
port  anciently  called  Panormutt  now  Drepano, 
from  the  name  of  the  village  standing  to  the  E. 
and  which  by  the  ancients  was  also  called  Dre. 
panuTH.  Between  Drepano  and  Vostitza  are 
the  villages  of  Adema  and  BouHka,  as  well  as 
the  small  town  of  Salmeniki,  also  ruined  in 
IV'ro ;  they  were  formerly  called  BoUna^  Rkypet, 
and  Erineut  partus.  To  the  W.  of  Fatnu 
Achaia  extended  as  ftr  as  Cape  Araxua,  now 
Papas,  at  the  extremity  of  which  stands  a  tower 
where  the  ancient  castle  of  Tkhoi  once  was. 
The  small  town  of  Kaminitza  corresponds  io  the 
ancient  Olenut ;  and  Tritaa,  at  the  head  of 
the  same  river  on  which  the  former  is  placed, 
and  originally  denominated  Melat,  has  retained 
the  name  of  Triti.    Between  Kaminitza  and 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


OOAP.Vl.]         THE   IONIAN   ISLANDS.  iM 

C*ge  Papas,  on  the  seaside,  we  discover  the 
ruins  of  Dyme;  and  between  Kaminitza  and 
Tiiti,  on  the  river  Melas,  those  of  Phara. 
.  The  ancient  Elis  contained  the  modem  dis< 
tricts  of  Hulomidsch  or  IQemoutzi  and  part  of 
those  of  Kalavritta  and  Fhanari,  {md  extended 
along  the  sea>coast  from  Cape  Kologrea  as  fiir 
as  the  river  Nedina.  The  ancient  Triphylia, 
which  depended  thereon,  was  to  the  lef^  of  the 
river  Alpheus.  Near  to  a  village  called  Kalos- 
fcopi  are  still  to  be  seen  the  rmus  of  ElU,  which 
was  the  capital.  Gastouni,  the  principal  town 
of  the  district  of  Hulomidsch,  and  most  pro- 
bably l»iilt  on  the  ruins  of  Ephyroy  has  most 
undoubtedly  been  enlarged  out  of  those  of  Elis. 
To  the  N.  of  the  province  of  EUs  was 
Larisia,  of  which  no  traces  are  now  to  be  dis- 
tingrashed,  unless  it  is  the  name  of  the  river 
winch  flowed  below  its  walls,  and  still  called 
Rissio.  To  the  S.  of  Larissa  was  Myrtun- 
turn,  placed  near  the  artificial  lake  of  Katold. 
To  the  N.  £.  of  Cape  Tornese,  formeriy  Che- 
bmitet,  and  near  Cape  Klarentza  is  the  village 
.of  this  name,  occupying  the  place  of  the 
ancient  Cyllene.  Hie  small  town  of  Leena  to 
die  N.  of  Gastouni  on  the  Fatras  road,  has  suc- 
ceeded to  Buprasam.  On  the  margin  of  &e 
rivulet  which  &lls  into  the  Feneiu  or  Igliako, 
above  Kaloskopi,  is  fi>und  Pylos,  which  has  re* 


.  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


t90  tmE  leniAH  m^NSfli       [chap.  n. 

tained  its  ancient  mmie.  Ob  IAk  Be»>mle  BMtf 
to  Cape  Pondiko,  fbrmerty  Phekty  was  a  town 
q£  the  same  name,  situated  on  the  nargin  of  a 
small  lake  aix)  near  a  churdi  at  present  called 
PliDagi&-Staphidia.  On  the  road  from  Chw- 
totiM  to  Arcadia  the  village  ot  Mesalo^  asd 
the  small  town  (tf  Pyrgo  have  most  prcdMUy 
replaced  Leirim  and  Salmone.  Towards  the 
sources  o(  the  Selkis,  now  called  the  rivcT  of 
Lala,  is  the  small  town  of  this  name  formerly  . 
called  Almmtm.  This  is  the  chief  ptaoe  of  an 
independent  clan,  living  by  plunder:  Ynvk 
^igo,  one  aS  Ute  roads  leading  to  Karitenl 
and  IVipolitza,  ascends  the  right  bank  o€  the 
Aipheus,  modemly  called  the  Roufia,  and  pMses 
through  the  village  of  Miraka,  near  which  are 
die  rains  of  Ofym/ria,  soroamed  Fisa^  celebrated 
for  its  temple  of  Jupiter  and  qnadrcwaial 
games,  the  periods  of  which  served  to  fix  the 
historicid  annals  of  Greece.  From  Mir^a  the 
road  passed  through  Hiraxio,  formerly  Pkrixtr, 
to  the  left  of  the  Alpheos ;  opposite  to  which, 
on  the  right  bank,  is  Don,  occupyii^  the 
ground  of  the  ancient  Epitalium,  Between 
I^i^  and  Miraka  were  also  Heraclett  and 
JSpine;  two  villages  whose  names  are  not 
known  now  stand  in  their  place.  In  front  of 
I^rrgo,  and  on  the  other  side  of  the  AlfAensi 
was  Hypana,  at  present  known  by  the  name  of 
4 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CHAP.Tl.}  TH£   HWIAN   ISLANDS.  [91 

AgoHmtza.  More  to  the  S.,  on  the  road  of 
%nano,  are  seen  the  vfflages  of  St.  Basl  and 
Vervitza,  on  the  borders  of  a rivuletforttdy 
calFed  Aeherm;  they  were  anciently  caBed 
T^patita  and  Epittm,  ht  retanuDg  towards  the 
•es,  on  the  left  of  the  road  of  Arcadia,  and  at 
the  head  of  a  rivulet  which  falls  into  the 
fisheries  situated  on  the  coast,  we  find  the  vil-' 
h^e  of  Sidero,  occupying  the  place  of  the 
ancient  Seylluns  on  the  Ckalois.  This  was  the 
lesidenee  of  Xenopbon  and  the  place  where  he 
composed  Ihs  excellent  works.  In  front  of  the 
guard-house  of  Kaiapha,  on  the  left  of  the 
smaB  l^e  which  receives  the  waters  of  t^e 
Amgrus,  now  Mavro-Fotamo,  Samicum  was  for- 
merly  situated.  This  was  the  port  of  the  city 
of  PylnSi  the  capital  of  TriphyUa  and  of  the 
states  c^  the  wise  Nestor,  and  its  ruins  are  still 
extant  to  the  £.  Gf  Kaiapha.  Lepreum  was 
rituated  at  the  source  of  the  rivulet  falling  into 
the  sea,  near  to  a  han  standing  between  Kai- 
:^ha  and  Dervish- Aga.  The  latter  viU^e 
has  taken  the  place  tK  Pyrgi,  the  southern 
fimitier  of  ^e  ancient  £Iis. 

Arcadia,  which  occupied  the  centre  of  Pelo- 
ponesus,  eomprehended  the  modern  districts  of 
Karitem  and  Londari,  together  with  part  of 
those  of  Phanari,  Kalavritta,  and  Fhirina. 
Iti  capital  was  formerly  Megahpotisy  buih  by 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


)9a  THE  lOHIAV  ISLANDS.         [CHAT.Vt.. 

tbe  Achaian  league  on  tbe  river  Heluton  fal* 
ling  into  the  Alpheus,  but  which  is  ii»w  no 
other  than  a  mean  place  called  Sinano.  At 
present  the  true  ci^ital  of  Arcadia^,  and  at  the 
same  time  of  the  whtde  Sandgiak  of  the  Morea, 
k  Tripolitza.  This  city,  containing  about 
'  S0,000  80uls»  is  that  of  Mores  which  su&red 
most  in  1770,  when  mor6  than  3000  men, 
among  whom  were  all  the  principal  inhabitants,' 
perished  there.  This  cily  is  built  at  the  foot 
of  Mount  Roino,  at  about  an  hour's  distance 
from  the  ruins  of  Pallantium  towards  the  N. 
and  the  same  from  those  of  Tegea  ;  the  latter 
are  called  by  the  modem  inhabitants  Paleo- 
Episkopi.  At  nearly  three  leagues  N.  of  Tri- 
politza in  a  place  called  Goritza,  and  near  to 
a  village  of  the  name  of  Arhi,  are  the  ruins  c£ 
Mantinea.  Midway  between  Goritza  to  Tri- 
politza, the  valley  is  shut  in  by  two  woody  hills 
which  form  it  into  a  defile ;  it  is  at  the  issue  of 
this  defile  and  at  the  foot  of  the  hills  facing 
Mantmea,  that  was  fought  the  battle  bearing 
the  latter  name,  and  the  last  triumph  of  Epa-' 
roinondas,  where  he  met  with  his  death  in  the 
bosom  of  victory.  "  My  coimtry  has  con- 
qnered,**  said  he  on  that  glorious  occasion,  "  I 
die  contented.  Time  and  the  barbari^  of  the 
Turks  have  destroyed  the  monument  which  had 
been  erected  to  the  memory  of  this  hero.    To 


^laiiizodbvGoagle 


th«  B.:£.of  the  ruins  of  Tegea,  on  tdie  ocm- 
fties  of  Laoonia,  once  stood  the  castJe  of 
Phylacei  wiach  has  been  aiKCeeded  by  the  vll- 
]i^  Qf  i^ntea,  situated  at  the  head  of  a  rivulet 
wtiich  loses  itself  in  a  gulf  in  the  vicinity  of 
Asi,  corresponding  to  the  ancient  eastle  of 
Aata.  A:  rivulet  deBicending  ii-om  Tegea  also 
iuuninto'the  same  gulf  fom^erly  called  Euro- 
tas,  and  a  thivd  riviHet,  meandering  frofii  ^e 
nnqsuf  Pallantium,  also  throws  itself  into  the 
abore  ^aam  which  was,  aeowding  to  the 
asciantB,  ikt  hbaloas  source  of  the  Alpheus. 
To  the  e«t  of  Goritza  beyond  a  deffle  known 
bjr^  nanse  of  Kaki-Skala,  is  the  vSlage  of 
jA^enitzi,  iarn^y  Melangia.  To  the  W.  otTid- 
polibza  4)n  the  other  side  ef  Mount  Roino,  at 
aibobt  itwo  boms*  distaooe,  ia  a  han  where  t^ 
loac^  o^^inano,  Diniitz&iiB,  aad6ai^k4,  separate. 
I*  this  pdaee  :formerly  mu8t  haive  stood  T^oa, 
and  furthw  on  and  mid-way  between  Lsngadia 
van  HeUsson,  situated  on  the  river  of  the  same 
name,  w^iich  bathed  the  ancient  Megalopdlis. 
Between  the  above  ban  and  '^nano  is  a  monas- 
tery, baflt  OB  the  ruins  of  Helos.  The  road 
fiiou  Tdpc^tea  to  Ixmdari  passes  near  to  Ae 
nuns  of  PaUantiuni,Bnd,  after  crossing  the  golf 
(rflhe  Alpheus,  {H-oceeds  by  a  village  which 
nratt  have  been  Atkenteum.  From  thence  the. 
I^weller  descends  to   Londari,  a  small  town  , 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


104  THE  IONIAN   ISLAB0S.  [OHAfrT. 

tmilt  on  the  i%ht  bank  of  the  S^rus,  in  &mA  . 
of  the  ruins  of  Leuctra.    From  Londari  the 
road  leading  into  Maino  paases  through  a  defile 
terminated  by  a  deirent  or  goard-hoose,  neat 
to  which  are  the  ruios  of  Gathia. 

Londari  ia  itself  situated  on  the  road  fiom 
Mistra  to  Gastouni.  In  proceeding  ^ng  this 
joad  and  after  passing  Sinano,  we  arrive  at 
Paleo-Arkadia,  which  has  taken  the  {^ace  of 
the  uicient  Tocnia ;  and  from  thence  we  pro* 
ceed  to  Kariteoi,  or  the  ancient  Gortya,  wiaeh 
small  town  is  built  at  some  distance  £rom  ihe 
Aipheus,  on  a  declivity  ranging  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Gortyniua.  Neaiiy  three  leagues 
h^faer  up  on  the  same  river  was  Paroria,  near 
I^angadia.  Below  Kariteni  on  the  margin  ol 
the  Alpheusa  the  road  passes  below  the  viU^;e 
of  St.  George,  anciently  Brentbe.  Nearly  in 
front  of  St  George,  and  a  league  £rom;  the 
Alpheus,  is  found  the  small  town  of  Andritz^tna, 
which  has  succeeded  to  Trapezius  aod  the 
rivulet  flowing  to  the  S.  of  Andiitzena  was 
called  the  Achelom.  In  nearly  a  southern  d>* 
rection  &om  the  latter  town,  on  the  margin  of 
the  Lym&Tf  which  at  a  small  distance  joins  the 
liver  Neda,  is  Davia,  formerly  Phigalia.  The 
■'  small  town  of  Phanari,  situated  at  the  source 
of  the  Neda,  corresponds  to  the  ancient  I^c*' 
mra ;  and  a  dervent  seen  on  the  road  front 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


CHAP.  TI.]         TOE   IONIAN   ULANSt.  19^ 

Sinano:  to  Androussa  has  taken  the  place  of 
TTiisaa.  On  the  right  bank  of  the  AlpfaeuB, 
no  other  place  than  Aliphera  was  known,  and 
this  has  assumed  the  modern  name  of  GrivenL 

In  ascending  the  banks  of  the  Alpheus,  the 
first  place  we  approach  on  the  Gastouoi  road, 
after  passing  St.  George,  is  Kastri,  answering  to 
the  Wcient  Buphagiuni.  After  Kastri  comes 
Khavli,  which  was  Mtkena,  indicated  in  the  old 
Itineraries  j  and  also  Iri,  formerly  Heraa.  On 
leaving  Rhavli  we  cross  the  river  Ladon,  now 
called  Roufia,as  wdl  also  as  is  the  Alpheus.  This 
river  rising  out  of  Mount  Ligyrgus,  which 
separates  it  from  the  marsh  o^Orckomemn^  first 
passes  by  Tripotami,  anciently  Haiuns ;  and  a 
little  to  the  S.  £.  of  this  place  was  Thisoa,  now 
Kalata.  The  Ladon,  before  joining  the  Al-, 
pheus,  passed  by  the  walis  of  Thelphussa,  which 
has  retained  its  ancient  name.  This  village 
situated  at  three  leagues  distance  to  the  N.  £.  of 
Rhavli,  stands  on  the  road  from  Tripolitza  to 
Dimitzana.  After  crossing  the  Ladon,  and 
before  arriving  at  Iri,  we  pass  over  the  river 
Erytnanthut^  now  also  called  Roufia.  '  At  about 
^ur  leagues  distance  to  the  N.  of  Iri,  is  the 
f  mall  town  of  Dimitzana,  built  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Erymanthus  opposite  to  the  ruins  oS 
Ptophis,  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Ery- 
manthus and  the  Aroanus,  which  Utter  has 
02  . 

D,=,i,z<,d.vGoogk' 


fikewisfe  assntn^d  tfae  new  appefiaHoa  of  Rbuffiu 
Afc  th^  distaoce  of  i  league  and  hatf  to  the  S. 
«f  DiHiitzana  is  Jiklcbva,  buil):  on  the  iirins  of 
Tropheea.  Oh  tbb  Mt  of  the  BrT&ianthas, 
vhich  takes  the  name  of  Diiiittzana;  and  in 
front  of  the  ruins  of  Paophifl  Is  Sitouii,  on  th& 
indent  Mioloe.  Towards  the  sources  of  the 
same  Hver  once  stood  l^alamai  now  Tertzena. 
To  the  N.  E.  of  the  latter,  on  Mount  Xina  or 
Er^matithus,  is  the  town  of  Kalavritta,  on  the 
itoiad  froita  Patras  to  TripoHtza.  It  has  tafcen 
the  place  of  the  Ancient  Cynethfe.  Nezero 
situated  between  Kalavrilta  and  Triti,  occiipiln 
(he  ground  6f  Larr^e.  On  the  river  Aroamts, 
ftree  leagues  above  Dimitzana,  is  Gardifci,  boat 
on  the  niirts  <iS  the  jtnciettt  CBor.  To  ih.t.  E; 
rf  Gardiki  is  Pyirgos,  fohneWy  Lycoa.  The 
ArbanuB  takes  its  source  in  &  Ui^i^  near 
Fhonia,  which  has  succeeded  to  Pheneos.  To 
the  S.  W.  of  Phonia  and  on  the  bothers  of  the 
above  marth  was  Lycuriai  which  has  preserved 
its  ancient  -nafrte  ;  and  to  the  N.  of  'the  two 
fatter  places,  on  MouOt  Aroanus,  was  Nonacrit, 
taoAerrAy  caHed  Naucria. 

The  rivulet  whidi  rises  near  Naucrriaj  and  at 
a  short  distance  iklls  into  the  Crathis,  w^  caDed 
Sty*.  To  the  E.  of  the  ftiarsh  of  HieJneOs  was 
lake  Stymphalm,  celebrated  in  the  history  df 
Hercules  i  this  lake  and  the  town  of  the  saftie 


_  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


tnaU*.  VI.]  T9J:   lONIAV  ISLAK^.  107 

q^e  are  now  cfiUed  IZ^aka.  Between  thip 
^e  a,iul  Phonia  is  ^enitzi,  formerly  ^mitoa. 
To  the  N.  pf  Stymphalus  was  Cyllent,  now 
Trikala ;  apd,  to  the  S.  of  Zaraka,  the  smaU 
town  of  GumitQa  has  «icceecled  to  Mea,  7o 
^e  S.  of  the  nfiarsh  of  Pbaoia  was  the  ancieiit 
lak@  or  Qiarah  of  Orchomemu ;  mA  the  ruiiv 
o£  tlie  t^wn  <^  this  name  are  still  to  be  asep 
fibove  the  lake  towards  the  E.  The  rivul«t 
issuing  from  ihe  lake  flows  towards  the  W.,  saA 
lose?  itself  at  the  distaoce  oi  two  leagues  uoder 
a  mountain,  on  the  other  suje  of  which  f^^)«us 
the  soui«e  ef  th«  ladon  which  takes  its  coune 
towards  TripotaiQ).  On  this  moun^ita  weidif 
luins  of  Na0(if.  Betvew  these  ruins  and  thp 
narsh  of  Phonia  WA9  the  ancient  Capkj/a,  wA 
a  field  of  battle  celebrated  in  the  history  of 
Pelopoaes^s.  Between  lake  Orchomemu  «Qd 
Kariteni,  on  t^e  ro^dfropi  Trjpolftza .  to  Gar- 
diki,  is  Mettaga,  at  the  confluence  of  two  rivecs 
which  lose  them^^ves  two  leggues  low^r  jdoWP 
in  a  chasm.  This  place  corresponds  tp  the 
ancient  Methydrium,  and  the  river,  which  is  tP 
the  £.  of  the  vill^e»  was  ^merly  (^e4 
MjfiMn,  and  tJbe  other,  Molatifs.  ' 

Tlie  ancient  Argolis  comprehend^  ^e  di|- 
tricts  of  Argos  and  Nap(^  di  KomAoia,  and  ex- 
tev(^.«)Qng  thi9  De»  on  ^^  ««#terp  sides  of 
Amount  Wrrowww  and  Mou»t  Fffrthfmis»98 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


jgS  THE   IONIAN   ISLANDS.  [CHAP.VI. 

ikr  as  near  Stilo  ^  and,  ascendbg  towards 
Corinth,  embraced  the  peninsula  vasbed  by 
the  gulf  of  Egina.  Along  the  gulf  of  Napoli, 
the  southern  frontier  of  tbe  ancient  Aigolis, 
was  Thyraa,  situated  on  tbe  elevation  which 
commands  Stilo ;  and  a  little  above  is  Astro, 
formerly  Genuiium.  At  the  foot  of  Mount 
.  Partheni  formerly  were  Jthetut  and  £na, 
now  Faleo-Chori  and  Paleo-Kastro.  The  road 
from  Tripolitza  to  Lemai  on  leaving  the  village 
o£  Steno,  enters  into  the  defile  called  Strata- 
Halil-beg,  and  after  descending  Mount  Par- 
theni, by  a  stair-caae  dug  in  the  rock,  and 
anciently  called  TVochoSt  arrives  at  Aglakam- 
bos,  formerly  Cenckrea.  In  descending  to- 
wards the  sea,  in  ancient  times  was  seen  HysitE^ 
now  Kalighi ;  and  on  the  sea-shore  are  found 
several  mills  forming  the  village  of  Milos.  Here 
stood  the  ancient  Amymone,  and  the  marsh 
which  is  not  fat  distant  was  the  abode  of  the 
Hydra,  overcome  by  Hercules.  In  going  from 
Tripolitza  to  Argos,  the  traveller  first  passed 
through  Ami,  whence  issues  two  roads,  one  c^ 
which  went  through  Agenitzi,  as  we  have  be- 
fore noticed  j  and  the  other  ascended  towards 
tiie  N.,  and  crossed  the  rivulet  of  Voulsi,  for- 
merly ArguSf  and  arrived  at  Enoa,  anciently 
(Enoe.  To  tbe  N.  of  Enoa  at  thie  head  of  the 
Erasinusy  or  the  modem  Erasino,  was  Ljfrcia 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAF.  VI.]  THE   IONIAN  ISLANDS.  199 

now  Loiirkaki ;  and  to  the  E.  of  the  latter  village 
are  the  sources  of  the  InackuSt  or  the  Flanitzft. 
On  the  latter,  a  league  from  the  sea,  is  the 
present  small  town  of  Argos,  the  remains  of  the 
ancient  city  of  that  name.  Two  leagues  and 
half  to  the  N.,  and  near  the  confluence  of  the 
Cephisus  and  the  Asterion,  is  the  hamlet  of  Kar- 
vathi;  and  half  a  league  to  the  E.,  near  to  a 
gulf  in  which  th«  two  latter  rivers  lose  them- 
selves, are  the  ruins  of  Afycents.  lliesesad  re- 
mains of  two  cities  which  revive  the  memory  of 
Agamemnon,  Clitemnestra,  Helen,  and  Orestus, 
the  bloody  quarrel  of  Atreus  and  Thyestus,  and 
the  misfortunes  of  the  Atrides,  whilst  they  ex- 
cite the  liveliest  interest,  cast  a  deep  gloom  on 
the  naind  of  the  modern  traveller.  Near  a  la- 
goon, or  sheet  of  water,  formed  by  the  common 
mouth  of  the  Erasino  and  Planitza,  formerly  wai 
Tetnennm,  the  port  of  Argos.  To  the  S.  E.  of 
the  mouth  of  the  two  last  rivers,  on  a  promon- 
tory projecting  into  the  sea  and  forming  a  size- 
able harbour,  is  Anaboli,  or  Napoli  di  Romania, 
anciently  Nauplia.  This  city,  extremely  com- 
mercial, is  built  on  the  southern  side  of  the 
port,  along  the  whole  length  of  the  promontory; 
In  the  middle  is  a  steep  rock,  on  which  stands 
the  fortress  of  Falamida ;  and  between  the  point 
of  the  promontory  and  the  coast  is  an  island, 
OHce  fortified,  which  closes  the  harbour.    This 


DiailizodbvGoOglf 


SOO  THB   IONIAN   ULANDS.  [o^AT.  VI. 

placet  the  last  possessed  by  tiie  VenetjiaDs  in  tlM 
Morea,  was  then  extremely  Btrong,  but  its  forti> 
fications  are  now  in  a  decayed  state.  It  was 
taken  by  Biyazet  in  1495.  At  the  bottom  of 
the  port  of  Napoli,  under  the  name  of  Faleo- 
Anapli,  are  still  to  be  seen  the  niins  of  the  aa- 
oicnt  l^rjftitbis  i  and  Zycimna  was  built  where 
the  chureh  of  Hagia-mom  now  stands.  To  the 
K.  of  N^oli  is  Metzo,  formerly  Midea.  To 
Uie  W.  of  Karvathi,  on  the  declivity  of  Mount 
Pol^spergat,  or  Apesaa^  is  a  church  called  Ago* 
riani';  it  was  here  that  Lyrcia  fbrmerly  esisted. 
The  small  town  of  Klegna,  between  Karvathi 
and  Corinth,  has  takm  the  place  of  the  ancient 
CkoncBi  and  Tretum^  on  a  amall  river  which 
lost  itself  near  Mycenfe,  is  now  Berbali.  To 
the  W.  of  Klegtia  was  the  small  towu  of  Nemeot 
near  to  the  forest  that  gave  shelter  to  the  hon 
whdse  skin  was  worn  by  Hercules :  it  is  now 
called  St.  George.  The  ruins  of  the  temple  are 
near  a  place  called  the  Columns,  Sroxa  the  num- 
ber existing  there,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  a 
dervent  situated  between  Nemcia  and  Kl^na. 
Near  to  St.  George  is  the  village  of  Petri,  where 
Om€(B  originally  stood. 

On  the  coast  of  the  gulf  of  Egina,  afler 
Rhetum,  in  Corinthia,  was  the  port  of  Buc€- 
phalium,  now  Porto  Franco.  Beyond  Cape  Spu 
rawn  was  the  port  of  the  Athenians,  now  called 


_  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


mg 


CHAP.  VI.]  THE  lONIAir  ULAN08.  SOI 

Modona.  Loiter  fSown  was  Epidaurus,  cd^ 
brated  for  the  temple  of  Eftulapius ;  and  the 
nuns  are  iffill  to  be  aeon  Mi  a  promontory  at  the 
elatraDC«  i^  the  potU  at  the  bottom  of  which  is 
th«  village  of  Kdavro.  To  the  W.  of  Epidauriu 
was  7%eritu,  now  Jero,  a  small  town  rtuned  in 
1770  J  and  fiilther  on  towards  Argos  was  Lesm, 
to  frhkh  Ferivolia  has  succeeded.  Near  Fort 
IVonali  is  the  vJII^e  and  fort  <^  Phanari^  once 
most  probably  Thermte.  The  small  town  of  Da- 
mala,  situated  on  the  torrent  called  Ckrysor^ 
rkoesy  is  the  ancient  TVtezetit  the  abode  of  llie- 
seus,  and  the  theatre  of  the  loves  of  Fhedra ; 
snd  in  coming  from  Epidaurus  we  follow  the 
sutae  rocks  on  which  Hippolltus  perished.  To 
the  N.  of  Damals  is  Methana,  formerly  called 
Methone ;  and  at  no  great  distance  is  the  island 
of  Egina,  and  that  of  Angistri,  anciently  JSe^ 
Una.  Near  Cape  Skillo,  formerly  &y//(n(f»,  are 
ruins,  now  called  Faleo-Chori,  which  correspond 
to  the  ancient  Celenderis.  Between  these  ruins 
and  Dflmala  is  the  isUtnd  of  Poro,  formeiiy  ^ie- 
ria.  Between  Cape  SktUo  and  Cape  Porpoises, 
near  the  village  <^  Kastri,  are  the  ruins  of  Har~ 
udme,  situated  on  a  promontory ;  and  opponte 
to  the  latter  are  the  islands  of  Hydron  and  Hy- 
dra, fwmerly  Hydreon  and  ArisUra.  Between 
Hermione  and  Cape  Skillo  is  found  Tfaermii, 
Ibnnerly  Acra ;  and  towards  Hermione  is  Ahld, 


^laiiizod  by  Google 


tOS  THE   IONIAN   ISLANDS.         [CHAP.  Ti: 

known  by  the  ancient  name  of  Halice.  To  the 
S.  of  Cape  PorpcHses  is  the  island  of  Spetzis, 
once  Tiparenu$i  and  in  front  of  this  island, 
near  Port  fiisati,  are  the  ruins  of  Masea.  To 
the  E.  of  Cape  Struthuntwnit  or  Koraka,  is  seen 
the  vilhige  of  Kranidi,  formerly  Coronis.  Be- 
tween  Kastri  and  Bamala  was  //n,  which  has 
retained  its  original  name,  as  well  as  Bidymi,  to 
the  N.  W.  of  Kranidi.  Vourlea  and  Foumas 
were  designated  by  the  ancient  names  of  BoHt 
and  Atine.  Drepani  has  taken  the  place  of 
Phliu3\  and  Acidari,  at  the  bottom  of  Port 
Tolon,  answers  to  the  ancient  Prosq/mna. 

The  ancient  Laconia  comprehended  the  mo- 
dem districts  of  Aja-Petri,  Misistra,  Malvasia, 
Ruja,  and  Maino.  lliis  province  did  not  fiir- 
merly  extend  on  the  ^f  of  Koron  further  than 
Mandiniai,  but  at  present  Maino  reaches  as  &r 
as  Pirnaza,  and  takes  in  half  of  Measenia.  To 
the  N.  of  Laconia,  on  the  gulf  of  Napoh',  was 
Prasiie,  seated  on  the  sea-side,  &t  the  foot  of 
the  hill  on  vhich  is  now  built  the  small  town  of 
Prasto.  In  proceeding  down  the  coast,  at  the 
bottom  of  the  Port  Delle-Botte,  and  near  the 
modem  small  town  of  Ericfaes,  is  Kypfaanto^ 
corresponding  to  the  ancient  Cyphanta ;  and  a 
little  to  the  S.  was  Zarea,  now  Kara.  The  ruins 
of  Epidaurus  Limera  are  to  the  Jfi.  of  the  port 
«f  St  Paul,  formerly  called  Dtos  Soteros.     It  i« 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


CHAP.  VI.]  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  203 

in  the  island  of  Mima  that  Mengesche,  or  Mo- 
nemvaaia,  has  been  built,  known  also  by  the 
naine  of  NapoU  di  Malvasia.  This  town,  al- 
though small,  is  rich  and  commercial,  and  one 
of  the  principal  emporiums  of  the  trade  of  the 
Levant  and  Candia ;  as  well  because  <^  its  si- 
tuation as  the  goodness  of  its  port.  Here  is 
produced  the  wine  known  by  the  name  of 
Malmsey. 

Epi  Deliumj  to  the  S.  of  Monemvasia,  is  now 
called  Agio-Lindi.  To  the  W,  of  Cape  Malea, 
or  St.  Angelo,  was  Port  Nympheeumi  still  called 
Njnmphiko.  At  the  bottom  of  the  bay  of  Va- 
tiko,  at  the  foot  of  the  village  of  this  name,  are 
the  ruins  of  Bcea  \  and  to  the  W.  of  the  bay 
stands  the  island  of  Servi,  formerly  Onu-gnatos. 
Asopui  is  now  called  Esapo,  and  Cyparissia  cor- 
responds to  the  modem  Castel  Rampano,  called 
by  the  Turks  Ruja.  In  ascending  towards  the 
mouth  of  the  Eurotas,  or  Vasili-Potamo,  we  find 
Prigniko,  Sapiko,  Tzili,  or  Elo,  and  the  small 
town  of  Kolochina,  which  formerly  were  Zeuca, 
AcritE,  Helos,  and  Asine.  At  a  small  distance 
inland  formerly  stood  Pleiay  now  Palea;  and 
to  the  right  of  the  mouth  of  the  Eurotas  wm 
Trinasus,  which  has  nearly  preserved  its  original 
name,  and  is  called  Trinisia.  Marathonisi  an- 
swers to  the  ancient  Mygonium.  The  island  of 
Marathonisi  was  formerly  called  Crama ;  and  in 
front  of  this  island^  in  the  vicinity  of  Trinisi, 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


90*  THE  IONIAN  mANse.         [cBAr.Vf. 

are  the  ruins  of  Gythium,  the  military  port  of 
the  LacedemoDiaiis. 

The  ruins  of  Teuthronc  are  to  the  S.  of  Vathy^ 
whidi  has  taken  the  place  of  Hypsu»i  and  tb« 
temple  of  Dyctin^a  is  now  a  church  dedicatett 
to  the  Virgin.  To  the  N.  W.  of  Vathy,  on  « 
declivity  of  Mount  Taygetus,  is  Fassavo,  cor- 
responding to  the  ancient  Las.  Kolokythia, 
seated  at  the  bottom  of  Fort  Kalio,  was  once 
known  by  the  name  <rf"  Pyrrkicus.  Psamathus, 
or  Psamatofi,  near  C^ie  Ttenarium,  or  Matapan, 
has  not  changed  its  name.  Between  Cape  Ma- 
tapan  and  Cape  Grosso  was  Tanarium*  or  Cana- 
paiis,  now  called  Komarea.  To  the  N.  of  Cape 
Grosso,  Maina,  frhich  has  given  its  name  to  the 
diatrict,  has  taken  the  place  of  Mtusa;  and 
Mtsapiotis^  above  Maina,  was  anciently  styled 
Thyridea.  The  other  towns  of  Laconia  seated 
on  the  gulf  of  Korea  were  (Etylot,  Tkalamay 
and  Leuetruvti  at  present  the  two  first  are 
called  Vitylo  and  Frasta,  and  the  ruins  of  Uie 
latter  are  seen  near  Mandiniai.  Pephms  was 
situated  near  the  island  of  Fekno,  between 
Prasta  an4  Mandiniai.  Above  the  nwuth  of 
the  Kurotas,  called  by  the  modem  Greeks  Va- 
siH-Fotamo,  and  by  the  Turks  Isharpo,  or  Aksou, 
were  Carmum,  now  Koumastra.  «nd>  towfuds 
Monemvana,  G^-ontkra,  which  retains  Uscffl 
jHune.  On  the  right  bank  of  the  saaae  river  is 
PeCrini,  formerly  Croeca.    Between  Petrini  and 

DiailizodbvGoOglc 


CKA».  Vt.]        ttiZ  IOMIaV  MLAVtM.  30J 

Mistni  the  villages  of  ^ivika  And  Soka  have 
taken  the  place  Of  Briaeee  and  FHarit.  The 
small  tovm  «f  Vordoaia  is  built  od  ^e  ruins  of 
the  ancient  TherapHt. 

Mistra,  or  Miaistra,  is  to  the  S.  W.  and  at  half 
a  league*8  distance  ftom  the  ruins  of  Sparta. 
This  to vn,  which  is  the  Capital  of  one  of  thi6 
Sandgiaks  of  the  Morea,  is  obly  governed  by  k 
Bey,  whcHD  the  Mainots,  instead  of  obeying, 
ftequendy  drive  away  from  the  seat  oi  his  py- 
vernAient.  Around  Sparta  formerly  were  Amy' 
cUs  and  Ptttmay  now  i^avo^!%ori  and  Evieo^ 
Kastro.  Ofi  the  road  froiA  Mistra  to  MonenH 
vasia  we  find  Marios,  whlcli  formeriy  bme  the 
same  name,  and  St.  PauI,  which  must  corre> 
apond  to  tiie  ^tuation  of  the  vmdisntGlyrr^os, 
In  coming  from  Ixmdari  to  Mistra,  after  passing 
a  defile  which  leads  to  the  source  of  the  Euro- 
ftts,fon»erly  was  seen  Beiemina,  modemly  called 
St.  Basil,  and  irom  thence  the  traveller  arrived 
M  P^UanOi  which  has  been  succeeded  by  Peri- 
volia.  Before  arriving  at  Sparta  the  road  led 
below  Ckaracomcy  now  called  Tripi.  In  coming 
from  Tri{K)litza,  and  after  passing  through  Fhitea 
and  Korka,  we  errter  into  a  defile  which  bore 
fhe  name  of  the  Hermaum  of  Laconia.  On  is- 
suing from  this  defile  we  find  Karvatby,  or  the 
itncieiJt  Carta.  As  we  continue  to  descend 
we  arrive  at  the  confluence  of  flie  Gorgytus 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


206  THB  IONIAN  ISLANDS.         '[CBAT.VT. 

and  the  (Etmsy  now  the  Chelefina,  where  are 
seen  two  villages,  one  .of  ivfaich  must  have 
been  the  ancient  SellasiOi.  piteVof  the  Helds  of 
battle  renowned  in  the  history  of  Felopout 
esus. 

The  ancient  Messenia  comprehended  the  mo- 
dem  districts  of  Koron,  Modon,  Navarin,  Ar- 
cadia, Aodroussa,  and  Kalamata.  This  pra> 
vince  was,  nevertheless,  much  smaller  than  Ar> 
cadia  and  Laconia;  but  the  three  first  districts, 
which  include  the  last  conquests  of  the  Otto* 
mans  in  the  Morea,  are  reduced  to  a  very  small 
compass  round  these  towns.  Immediately  afler 
passing  Mandiniai,  along  the  gulf  of  Messenia, 
or  of  Koron,  we  find  Platza,  formerly  Abea^ 
and  afterwards  Kardamyla,  which  retains  its  ori- 
ginal name.  Pharm  has  been  replaced  by  Ki- 
triai,  a.  village  built  near  a  confined  port,  which 
is  the  trading  place  of  Dolous,  a  small  town 
iBtanding  on  the  ground  of  Germta,  Above 
Dolous  was  the  castle  of  Alagonia,  now  named 
Zamato,  and  the  residence  of  the  Bishop  of 
Maino.  On  the  sea-side,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river  Apsaria,  formerly  the  Aris^  and,  opposite 
to  the  village  of  Armiro,  we  find  ruins  which 
bear  the  name  of  Faleo-Chora,  and  belong  to 
the  ancient  Thuria.  Here  ends  the  canton  of 
Maino,  in  which  the  places  we  have  jiut  noticed 
are  contained. 

4 


niAP.  TlO         THE   IONIAN  HLANDf.  SO? 

To  the  N.  W.  of  Armiro  ia  the  town  of  Ka- 
lamata,  and  the  capital  of  a  district.  Its  port, 
vludi  was  formerly  called  lAmna,  is  to  the  S. 
Near  the  mouth  of  the  Fimatza,  formerly  the 
PamiitUf  and  on  its  right  bank,  is  the  bomU 
town  of  Nisi,  which  has  taken  the  place  of 
Stej^lania,  the  port  of  the  Messenians.  Be- 
low the  latter  was  Andania,  corresponding  to 
the  modem  Androussa,  a  small  town,  whose  ju- 
risdicticm  extends  as  &r  as  beyond  Koron.  Tq 
the  N.  of  Androussa,  at  the  distance  of  two 
ihort  leagues,  is  the  village  of  Mavromathia, 
seated  on  the  western  dedivity  of  Mount  Vul- 
kano,  formerly  Itkome.  This  village  is  built  on 
the  ruins  of  Messena,  celebrated  for  its  long 
wars  against  the  lliacedemonians,  and  for  the 
memory  of  Aristomenus  and  Aristodemus,  as 
well  as  its  destruction,  and  the  dispersion  of  its 
brave  inhabitants.  Messena,  rebuilt  at  a  later 
period,  joined  the  Achaian  league*  and  contri- 
buted to  the  depression  of  her  proud  rival.  Be- 
tween Mavromathia  and  Androussa,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Famisus,  is  the  village  of  Anaziri, 
formerly  (Echalia.  At  the  distance  of  half  a 
league-from  the  latter  we  cross  the  Famisus  on  a 
Iffidge,  notwithstanding  its  source  is  not  more 
than  a  league  from  thence  towards  the  £.,  and 
'  afterwards  ascend  to  the  village  of  Iiezi,  which 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


SOS  TBS   lONUN   IU,AKIM.         ^CK&T.TI, 

has  taken  the  pUce  of  the  ancient  0/Krw.  A&a 
Lczi,  continuing  to  ascend  Mount  ACintfaa,  or 
I^caus,  we  arrive  at  a  village  lituatod  near  « 
dervent;  this  was  the  anoient  Hermmum  of 
Mount  Lycsos.  To  the  &  £.  of  Len^a  le^ue 
fiom  the  latter  village,  and  tbe  wne  distanoo 
fiom  the  ruins  t^Gathite,  is  tbe  village  of  Clos^ 
tenu»  anciently  Amphea.  Returning  towavda 
the  sea,  to  tbe  W.  of  Androusaa,  and  toward 
the  sources  of  tbe  Samari,  ibriDexfy  the  JSkr* 
t^fTQt  we  meet  with  the  vffii^  of  Dzori,  oceo* 
pying  the  {^ce  of  Dorium.  To  t^  iS.  of  tibo 
mottth  of  the  Samari  is  tiie  port  of  Petalidi, 
bdow  a  river  anciently  called  Bait.  A  litde  to 
the  Vf.,  on  the  declivity  of  tbe  ttiountnia  nrar 
the  village  of  Baliade,  are  the  riiins  of  Mmo. 
The  town  of  K«on  stands  «n  the  ground  of  the 
ancient  Corone.  The  spring  called  of  tbe  Phme- 
tree,  isthe  source  (rfa  river  which  begins  to  flow 
near  Voonaria,  and  loses  itself  in  the  sea  at 
Stratcha  j  and  an  aqueduct,  comAiencmg  ns*r 
Stratcha»  conveys  it3  waters  to  Koron.  Thi^ 
town,  extremely  commercial  though  smdl,  is 
Aeiended  t^  two  forts  situated  on  a  fu-omon' 
tory,  and  to  the  W.  of  them  the  town  is  buik. 
The  port  is  not  large,  it  is  rather  a  ■^ecies  «^ 
road,  the  entrance  of  which  is  not  easy,  «wing 
to  the  lAoah  extending  into  the  sea  to  the-dia^ 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


«tiAI>. '^I.^         THE   lOniAV  ISLAVD*.  20ff 

taMce  of  a  mile  from  tlw  pcnot.  After  Bajazet 
had  taken  Modon,  in  149S,  lie  caused  Koroo  to 
he  besieged  hy  land  by  bis  Vizir,  jUt  Padia,  atnl 
by  sea  ^  his  Admiral,  Daud  Padha,  and  the 
place  ca^tulated.  In  1497  tfae  Venetiinis,  vich 
the  ud  of  France,  trtteeapted  to  retake  it,  iriwa 
their  fleet  was  defeated;  but  in  1527  they  be- 
sieged «mI  retook  it.  In  15  SO,  Mahomed  Bey, 
iSandgiak  of  tlie  Morea,  blockaded  Koron ;  mrI 
baviog  defeated  a  flotilla  of  eight  tcss^b  which 
attempted  to  succour  the  garrison  'with  prori- 
«ons,  the  town  Burrendered  the  eighteenth  day 
of  the  Rharaasan. 

Between  Koron  and  Cape  GaSo,  -or  Acrit-as, 
■ear  the  village  of  Stratcha,  are  ihe  roma  a£Co- 
ienis.  "nte  island  standing  to  tlie  S.  of  ^te 
cape,  called  the  islaad  of  Venetiko,  was  origj- 
nrily  named  Tkegttmteai  and  the  port  iriiidt 
t^eoB  to  Hie  N.  W.  of  fbe  same  cape  corre- 
sponcb-to  th«  ancisit  Pkmieus  P0rtus.  In  the 
bottonn'of  thebt^dT  Mode«,  and  at  the  foot  of 
MoanC  IPematbea,  was  'die  town  «f  Asim,  to 
winch  tfae  vifl^e  of  Oriso  has  soeoeeded.  To 
the  W.  «f  fhe  latter,  tmd  to  the  Tight  of  t)» 
month  -df  the  Hiver  Siloee,  formerly  Sela,  a 
Modon,  eerresponding  to  the  anciart  MethmK. 
TWs  fiMlress  is  beiH  on  a  sn^  point  projectiag 
-into  4iiB  sea,  And  the  viUage  is  towocds  <^ 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


210  THE   lOnAM   IBLAHDS.  [CBAP.  TI. 

N.  E.,  at  the  bottom  of  the  port,  which  is  not 
veiy  capacious.  Opposite  to  ModoD  is  the 
island  of  S^pientza,  and  a  little  to  the  S.  £.  ano* 
tber,  called  Kabrera :  these  two  islands  for- 
merly  bore  the  name  of  (Enttsa.  After  Ba- 
jazet  had  taken  Lepanto,  in  1495,  be  proceeded 
to  besiege  Modon  by  land,  whilst  his  Admiral, 
Jakub  Pacha,  pressed  it  by  sea.  One  of  the 
galleys  which  blew  up  in  the  port  having  created 
considerable  injury  and  disorder  among  the  Ve- 
netian garrison,  Bajazet  availed  himself  of  this 
opportunity,  and  ordered  a  general  assault,  when 
the  place  was  taken  and  burnt,  the  14th  o£  the 
month  of  Moharrem.  The  author  of  the  Chro- 
nology of  the  Ottoman  Empire  observes  that 
Modon  and  Corfu  were  the  two  keys  of  the  lo- 
nian  sea.  After  the  capture  of  the  first,  the 
Turks  caused  a  fort  to  be  constructed  on  dis 
point  of  Sapientza,  to  defend  the  passage  t^the 
channel;  but  it  has  since  been  destroyed. 

To  the  N.  of  Modon  is  the  port,  or  rather  liie 
road,  of  Navarin.  This  road,  which  is  6000 
toises  long,  and  4000  in  its  widest  part,  is  both 
secure  and  commodious ;  anchorage  is  even  to 
be  found  in  40  fathoms  water,  and  not  und^ 
eight  in  the  nc^them  part.  In  the  centre  is  an. 
uninhabited  island ;  and  the  island  of  Sphagia, 
formerly  Sphacteria,  or  Sphagia,  closes  the  en- 


^lailizodbvGoOglf 


CHAP.  VI.3         THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  Sll 

trance.  To  the  N.  of  this  island  is  a  narrow 
-imd  difficult  pass,  formerly  defended  by  a  fort 
built  on  the  island.  To  the  S.,  where  Uie  new 
ibrt  is  now  situated,  are  two  passes :  the  one  for 
'small  vessels  is  between  Sphagia  and  the  rock 
called  I^los  ^  and  the  other,  which  is  the  main 
pass,  is  between  Pylos  and  the  continent.  On 
the  point  of  the  main  land  ia  New  Navarin,  a 
fortress  built  on  the  sea-side,  near  to  a  small 
town  which  has  taken  the  place  of  the  ancient 
Coryphatium.  The  port  and  custom-house  are 
situated  to  the  N.  of  the  town ;  and  at  the  other 
extremity  of  the  road  is  Old  Navarin,  or  Zon- 
chio,  built  on  the  side  of  the  ruins  of  Pylos  of 
Messenia. 

Navarin  was  taken  by  the  Turks  in  the  same 
year  as  Modon,  and  the  Venetians  soon  after- 
wards re-conquered  it ;  but  having  been  at- 
tacked by  land  by  Ali  Pacha,  Bajazet's  Vizir, 
and  by  sea  by  Kemal  Reis,  afler  losing  a  battle 
before  the  place,  the  Venetians  again  lost  it  al- 
together. To  the  N.  of  Old  Navarin  is  the 
small  town  of  Gargagliano,  which  has  taken  the 
place  of  the  ancient  Erana ;  and  farther  on  to- 
wards Arcadia  is  Pasenza,  formerly  Platamodes. 
Nearly  opposite  to  Gargagiiano,  and  near  to  the 
coast,  is  the  island  of  Prodano,  formerly  Proie^ 
wtuch  forms  a  small  bay,  tolerably  secure.   Ailer 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


^S  tat  rONIAR  in.ANt)«.  [CHAKVT. 

passing  Cape  Cyparissusy  or  KotielK),  we  artite 
at  Arcadia,  formerly  -Cyparissay  a  towti  buUt  <ott 
9tn  elevaticm  comrnanding  a  snaU  pMl,  vhich  is 
now  a  retreat  for  pirates.  T%e  last  towns  <rf 
ancient  Messeniawvre  Auhn,  on  the  Neda,  and 
'Electra,  to  the  S.  E.  <^  Arcadia ;  the  one  is  ^tifl 
cdled  Avion,  and  the  other  Vrisi. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAPTER  VIL 

Ongin  f^  AH  Packa.r-~Charae»w  of  Ua  MOim . 
■^^Jiis  Education.— First  JCventa  ^bis  JAfe.-w^ 
An  extraordinary  Occurrtnce  places  him.  in  tk* 
Read  to  Forttme,.—He  bec.^tnei  Chief  of  T^ 
leni.—Deatbof  hu  Brother. — He,  heeome*  a 
Robber- — He  obfimt  the  iVfi/ce*»o»  ^^«*prf 
pacha,  marrie^t  and  kis  FoiHuw.  Gommenee^.-^ 
iStrves  ifi  the  Army  of  the  Grand  Vizir;  e»t€Pt 
into  Relatiom  with  JRtu3i»,i  obtains  the  Pacha- 
lie  of  Trikaia  ;  «)«»  <m  Jomnina  :  heeones  a 
Derxxndgi-P^cka  ;  negotiates  with  France  ; 
exteTids  his  Conquests  ;  enters  into  Correspond' 
ence  with  huonaparte ;  breaks  mith  France; 
seixos  0»  the  Venetian  Tovw,  and  fail*  before 
Corfu;  is  made  Rounteli-Valacbi ;  hi*  M^ac- 
tions;  treats  mth  France;  makes  War  ott 
Russia  ;  sends  an  Agwt  to  Napakon  ;  fails  in 
his  Vievs  at  7^t ;  wd  addgresses  himself  to 
England. 

h  ROM  the  description  of  the  governmeDts  and 
extent  of  country  now  dependent  on  AH  Pach% 
which  wa  have  just  given,  k  is  easy  to  see  that 
he  is  at  present  the  most  powerful  Buropean 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


214  THE  IONIAN   ISLANDS.        [cHAP.  Til. 

ruler  of  the  Ottoman  empire.  The  provinces 
of  which  he  disposes,  and  which  with  reason 
may  be  called  his  states,  or  dominions,  consti- 
tute a  good  third  of  all  Turkey ;  and  the  offices 
of  Dervendgi-Pacha  and  RoumeIi-Valachi,which 
he  has  already  held,  and  can  again  obtain  when- 
ever he  chooses,  through  the  means  of  his  arts 
and  intrigues,  would  still  leave  at  his  disposal 
another  third  of  this  extended-  empire.  He  is 
not,  nevertheless,  the  titulary  chief  of  all  the 
Sandgiaks,  or  Fachalics  with  three  tails,  other- 
wise called  Vizirships,  which  we  have  just  enu- 
merated. The  governments  of  which  he  fao^ds 
the  Firman^  or  imperial  diploma,  are,  1st,  The 
Vizirship  of  Joannina,  to  which  he  has  since 
added  several  districts,  wrested  from  those  of 
Delvino  and  Aviona.  2d,  The  Sandgiak  of  Av- 
lona,  reduced  to  the  sole  district  of  this  city, 
end  which  is  governed  in  his  name  by  a  pacha 
dependent  on  him.  3d,  The  Vizirship  of  Ochri- 
da,  excepting  the  cantons  of  Mat, -Ischim,  and 
Akhissar,  which  are  placed  under  die  dominion 
of  the  Pacha  of  Scutari,  and  that  of  Kolonia, 
dependent  on  the  Vizir  of  Elhassan,  who  resides 
at  Berat.  4th5  The  Vizirship  of  Karli-Ili,  whose 
Vizir  formerly  resided  at  Arta.  5th,  The  Vizir- 
ship of  Trikala,  with  the  ■exception  of  Larissa, 
whose  Beys,  in  great  measure^  hold  themselves 
in  a  state  of  independence. 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


CHAP.Vn.^        THE  lOKUN  ISLAMSS.  215 

Hie  districts  dependent  on  the  Sandgiak  of 
Kapuden-Pacha,  which  he  befwe  governed  in  a 
direct  manner  in  his  qualify  of  RoumeH-Valachi, 
have  DOW  Beja,  who  obey  and  hold  their  autho- 
rity &om  him.  The  Vizir  of  Egribos  is  reduced 
to  the  three  jurisdictions  of  the  island  of  Euboea; 
and  those  of  the  main-land  are  governed  by  ?&• 
chas  or  Beys,  whom  he  causes  to  be  named  or 
names,  and  they  all  are  subservient  to  his  orders. 
The  Vizirship  of  Lepanto  has  been  bestowed  on 
Mouktar  Pacha,  his  eldest  son  ;  and  that  of  the 
Morea  is  administered  by  Veli  Pacha,  his  second 
son.  The  Vizirship  of  Delvino,  of  which  at 
length  he  divested  Mustapha  Pacha,  has  also 
been  granted  to  Sally  Bey^  his  third  son,  scarcely 
passed  his  infancy,  and  the  only  child  bom  in 
his  harem  that  he  has  legitimatized.  It  is  im- 
possible, as  we  shall  hereafter  show,  for  his  sons 
to  withdraw  themselves  from  his  direct  autho< 
rity :  it  would  be  the  forfeit  of  his  life  to  any 
one  of  the  governors  depending  on  him  who 
should  dare  to  disobey  him.  In  all  the  above 
provinces  he  disposes,  at  hit  own  pleasure,  of 
the  civil  and  judiciary  administration,  as  well  as 
of  the  finances  and  military  forces.  It  there- 
fore may  be  said  that  be  really  reigns  as  a  sove- 
reign, though  in  appearance  a  vassal  of  the 
Ottoman  empire,  to  whom  he  pays  his  tribute 
with  exactitude,  and  whose  orders  he  obeys 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


91C  Tm  lOKUN   ULANSfl.        [cHAP.  rU. 

when  they  are  con^ned  with  )m  own  agfintSt  or 
anawer  hia  views. 

The  small  town  of  Tepelesi,  of  which  Ali 
Pacha's  ancestors  were  Beys,  that  is,  lords,  ia 
ishahited  by  Greeks  and  Albanian  MussulmanSa 
of  the  tribe  of  the  Toczides.  Tlie  &mily  o£  AU 
had  always  iuniisbed  the  chiefs  of  this  bond  of 
&rocio«ia  but  oourageoua  mountaiBeers.  War 
with  thdf  neighbours  and  pillage  were  thmr 
mij  occBpations.  The  fiunily  of  Ali  Pacha  had 
bred  in  obscurity  since  the  time  of  Scanderbef, 
mder  whose  government  it  was  moat  probably 
Christian,  as  well  as  a  great  number  of  other  Al- 
banian  families,  wfaidi  at  the  time  of  the  coa> 
quest  of  their  country  by  the  OttomaDS  embraced 
Islanmni,  ia  order  to  preserve  their  property. 
The  grandfather  of  Ali»  one  o£  the  Turiuah  ge^ 
nerala  enqoloyed  at  the  siege  of  Corfu,  was  killed 
there  i  and  he  is  the  first  of  this  family  whose 
name  occurs  in  the  chroaoj<igy  of  the  Ottoman 
empire.  His  father,  Veli,  bad  been  Sand^dk 
of  Delvino,  but  having  &Uen  under  the  displea- 
sure of  the  Porte,  he  had  been  deprived  d  hia 
office,  and  rqilaced  by  Selim  Bey>  on  whom  Ali 
avenged  himself,  as  we  shall  hereafter  have  OC" 
casion  to  notice.  Vdi  Bey,  persecuted  k^  the 
Divan,  was  also  attacked  by  hianaghbaurs,wbo 
were  the  Beys  of  Kaminitaa,,  KUsaoura,  Premiti, 
and  Ai^iro-Kaatra.    Too  weak  to  reust  them 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


CHAP.  Til.]        TBE  IONIAN  ISLAHBft.  SI  7 

alone*  notwithstandiog  a  most  coun^^eous  de- 
fence, he  was  under  the  necesatty  of  yielding ; 
and  having  been  de^oiled  of  the  greatest  part 
of  his  inheritance,  he  died  of  &tigue  and  a 
broken  heart,  leaving  several  young  children, 
among  which  were  two  sons,  one  of  whom  waa 
Ali.  This  occurrence  h^pened  about  the  year 
1760,  when  Ali  was  thirteen  years  old. 

The  widow  of  Veli  Bey  was  a  woman  whose 
courage  was  only  equalled  by  her  ambition.  No 
enterprise  iq>peared  impossible  to  her ;  no  means 
whatever  were  too  much  to  attain  her  end.  Sue* 
cessful  policy,  and  the  most  impenetrable  dissi* 
muladon,  blended  with  cruelty,  constituted  the 
leading  traits  of  her  character.  Far  from  bend- 
ing under  or  seeking  to  avoid  the  misfortunes 
which  bore  down  her  iamily,  by  flj-ing  with  her 
children  and  the  remainder  of  her  treasures,  she 
bddly  withstood  the  ills  of  fortune,  and  opposed 
the  torrent  which  widely  threatened  her  with 
impeoding  destruction.  No  othei'  than  her&ith- 
ful  Toczides  now  remained,  whom  nothing  had 
been  able  to  estrange  or  sever  from  the  &auly  . 
of  their  chiefs,  and  whose  blind  obedience  had 
prepared  them  for  every  sacrifice  that  might  Con- 
tribute to  its  defence.  With  a  handM  of  &1. 
lowers  V^'s  widow  defended  the  remainder  of 
her  doannions,  checked  ber  enemies,  adminis- 
tered the  small  portion  of  property  that  still  re* 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


218  THE   IONIAN   ISLANDS.         (CHAP.Vn. 

mained  to  her,  saved  her  children  from  the  ef> 
forts  of  violence  and  the  attempts  of  treason, 
at  the  same  time  that  she  schooled  them  in  the 
arts  of  dissimulation  and  revenge.  It  was  about 
this  time  that  she  vas  taken  prisoner  by  th6  inr 
habitants  of  Croritza,  when  her  ransom  absorbed 
the  greatest  part  of  the  treasures  she  had  been 
able  to  save. 

Her  lessons  and  example  had  their  due  effect 
on  her  children,  but  more  so  on  the  mind  of 
Ali  than  his  brother.  In  policy,  Ali  soon  be- 
came equal,  if  not  superior,  to  his  mother.  Na- 
ture had  bestowed  on  him  all  those  qualities 
which  afterwards  enabled  him  to  create  a  for- 
midable power  and  preserve  it;  and  the  ener- 
gies of  his  mind  were  distinguished  by  a  most 
early  display.  At  the  age  when  the  bulk  of 
mankind  scarcely  begin  to  think,  he  already 
foresaw  the  possibility  of  laying  the  foundation 
of  his  own  tranquillity,  and  raising  his  power  on 
the  depression  of  his  neighbours.  -  He  bad  al- 
ready seized  and  combined  the  means  of  com- 
manding his  equals  and  reducing  his  inferiors  to 
slavery. 

Scarcely  had  Ali  attained  his  sixteenth  year 
when  he  was  seen  defending  the  inheritance  ci 
bis  iather  by  the  force  of  arms.  He  was  not, 
however,  the  chief;  his  mother  still  governed, 
pnd,  under  her  orders,  two  old  servants  com- 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP,  Vll.]         THE   IONIAN    ISLANDS.  219 

manded,  possessed  both  of  fidelity  and  experi- 
ence. Her  son  was  still  no  other  than  a  subal- 
tern in  the  ranks.  His  courage,  which  was  al- 
ways calm  and  intrepid,  caused  him  to  be  be- 
loved by  his  mother's  soldiers;  whilst  his  ad- 
dress in  flattery,  and  the  apparent  sweetness  of 
his  character,  gained  him  the  regard  of  the 
principal  vassals  or  servants  of  his  house.  His 
avidity  to  discover  all  kinds  of  useful  knowledge 
found  encouragement  among  them  ;  and  he  soon 
informed  himself,  in  the  greatest  detail,  of  the 
strength,  character,  and  connections  of  his  ene- 
mies. He  studied  and  learnt  all  the  circum- 
stances of  the  history  of  his  own  family,  as  well 
as  that  of  the  glorious  acts  of  his  fellow-coun- 
trymen. This  study  afterwards  proved  to  him 
of  the  greatest  utility  ;  it  contributed  to  culti- 
vate and  perfect  the  prodigious  memory  -vrith 
which  he  had  been  gifted,  and  served  to  him  as 
an  infallible  guide  in  all  his  political  difficulties. 
He  has  always  continued  this  same  species  of 
study,  and  even  now  he  relates  the  principal 
facts  and  events  which  have  taken  place  in  all 
the  provinces  under  his  control,  and  quotes  the 
dates  without  the  smallest  hesitation. 

Such  were  his  youthful  occupations,  and  such 
the  limits  to  which  his  command  w^  at  first 
confined.    The  old  servants  of  his  father  loved 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


S20  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.        [CHAP.  VII. 

and  esteemed  him,  but  his  too  great  youth  at 
that  time  removed  all  idea  of  obedience,  and 
withheld  all  confidence  in  his  talents.  Burning, 
nevertheless,  with  a  desire  to  break  through  the 
trammels  of  dependence,  so  little  congenial  to 
his  restless  character,  and  anxious  at  the  same 
time  to  raise  himself  from  an  inferiority  opposed 
to  his  pride,  he  was  not  long  before  he  unbo* 
somed  himself  to  his  mother,  and  confided  to 
her  part  of  his  designs,  as  well  as  the  deep  and 
daring  project  he  had  formed  of  dividing  tus 
enemies,  and  defeating  them  in  detail.  The 
widow  of  VeU  Bey  could  not  &il  being  en* 
chanted  with  the  progress  her  lessons  and  91L- 
hortatiotis  bad  made  in  the  heart  of  he;  son, 
Her  means  were,  however,  reduced  greatly  be- 
neath what  they  were  at  the  death  of  her  hus- 
band. A  continued  struggle,  the  success  of 
which  had  been  varied,  and  whose  ha|^^t  re- 
sult was  merely  to  enable  her  to  sustain  herself, 
bad  exhausted  her  resources  and  cut  ofi*  part  of 
her  warriors.  She  hesitated  to  give  up  the  com- 
mand, and  feared  to  weaken  her  forces  by  di- 
viding them  with  AU,  for  the  purpose  of  rushing 
into  an  enterprise  that  did  not  appear  so  certain 
in  her  eyes  as  those  of  her  son,  and  in  which  one 
misfortune  could  not  fail  to  brir^  total  ruin. 
She  did  not  disapprove  of  the  plan,  nor  discou- 


^lailizodbvGoOglf 


CHAf.m.3        THE   IONIAN   ISLANDS.  321 

raged  the  first  salliea  of  an  enterprising  ai^ 
fearless  mind,  but  certun  it  is  she  furnished  him 
irith  no  means. 

All  vas  in  no  way  disheartened ;  and,  perhaps 
believing  himself  possessed  of  more  credit  than 
he  realty  had,  he  abandoned  the  castfe  of  Te- 
peleni  witha  sm^  number  of  devoted  followers, 
and  took  the  field.  In  Ms  first  expeditions  he  . 
evinced  all  the  courage  and  ^I  of  vihich  he 
was  capable,  and  of  which  he  gave  such  striking 
proofi  after  bis  first  eflbrts  had  failed  in  their 
success.  The  savage  hordes  he  led  on  to  daring 
deeds  were,  through  their  ignorance,  too  £ir  be- 
hind him  to  be  able  to  conceive  the  wisdom  of 
his  plans  and  measure  the  depth  of  his  designs. 
Accustomed  to  a  mechanical  method,  and  to  a 
reliance  on  no  other  than  the  force  of  arms,  or 
at  most  on  some  local  stratagems,  they  still 
doubted  the  eSscts  of  the  promises  of  their 
young  chief  Among  the  Albanians,  as  well  as 
among  all  other  uncivilized  nations,  age  and 
practical  experience  overcome  every  other  con- 
sideration, and  genius  itself,  which  so  advanta- 
geously makes  up  for  both,  is  devoid  of  credit. 
AH  experienced  the  fatal  effects  of  this  igno- 
rance, and  of  the  prejudices  to  which  it  gives 
rise.  He  was  able  to  assemble  only  a  small 
number  of  troops,  not  having  sufficient  money 
to  pay  more,  since  he  could  alone  ofl^r  to  his 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


222-  THE  UWUV   ISLANDS.        [cHAP.  Ttf. 

soldiers  hopes  which  were  fimoded  oo  a  basis  it 
was  impossible  for  them  to  comprehend.  He 
nevertheless  attempted  expeditions  against  the 
enemies  of  his  house.  His  forces  were,  how- 
ever, too  disproportioned,  and  he  was  several 
times  beaten.  Having  commenced  military  ope- 
rations against  the  Sandgiak  of  Avlooa,  he  was 
taken  prisoner  in  an  unfortunate  attack.  The 
Vizir,  Kourd  Pacha,  was  an  old  man,  of  a  mild 
and  easy  character,  and  also  humane  and  gene- 
rous. The  youthful  air  of  Ali  Bey,  \he  beauty 
and  sweetness  of  his  phisiognomy,  his  lively  and 
natural  talents,  so  superior  to  his  age,  and  still 
more  so  to  the  generality  of  his  countrymen, 
created  an  interest  in  the  Sandgiak.  He  was 
satisfied  with  reprimanding  him,  and  s^it  him 
away. 

Ali  was  then  obliged  to  enter  again  under  the 
guardianship  of  his  mother,  who  reproached  him 
in  bitter  terms,  and  even  treated  him  in  a  harsh 
manner.  Habituated  to  dissimulation,  he  bore 
all  in  silence ;  but  the  inde&tigahle  perseverance 
which  constitutes  one  of  the  leading  features  of 
his  character,  and  causes  him  always  to  resume 
the  execution  of  an  uninterrupted  project  as 
soon  as  a  £tvourable  opportunity  o&rs,  re- 
strained  him  in  this  first  trial  of  his  mind-  He 
attached  himself  still  more  to  the  soldiers  of  his 
mother,  as  well  as  to  their  chiefs:,  he  gave  them 


.  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


CH&P.  VU.]        THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  fiSS 

AD  account  of  his  operations,  and  endeavoured 
to  make  them  taste  and  approve  his  future 
designs.  Wishing  no  longer  to  depend  on  his 
mother,  it  was  not  so  much  in  her  eyes  that  he 
sought  his  justification,  but  rather  among  the 
ancient  servants  of  his  father,  whom  he  was 
anxious  to  bind  to  his  future  interests.  He  did 
not  forget  this  necessary  precaution,  in  order  to 
counteract  the  discredit  which  accompanies  un- 
successful genius  in  the  eyes  of  the  vulgar.  He 
did  not,  however,  entirely  withdraw  fVom  his 
mother ;  on  the  contrary,  he  renewed  his  solici- 
tations and  remonstrances  before  her.  His  suit 
was  long  disregarded ;  at  length,  hpwever,  he 
obtained  a  supply  of  money :  whether  it  was 
that  she  wished  to  rid  herself  of  his  importuni- 
ties, or  rather,  being  herself  gifled  with  a  great 
'share  of  perspicacity,  she  accorded  a  certain 
degree  of  approbation  to  bis  projects.  AK 
again  levied  troops,  and  entered  into  a  fresh 
campaign. 

Fortune,  which,  beyond  doubt,  wished  to  put 
him  to  the  trial  before  she  bestowed  her  &vours, 
and  sought  to  strengthen  that  perseverance 
which  is  superior  to  the  greatest  misfortunes, 
jind  could  alone  lead  him  to  the  attainment  of 
his  object,  was  a  second  time  adverse  to  him. 
Compelled  to  collect  money  in  order  to  unite  the 
troops  he  required  for  success,  he  now  undertook 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


<St4  THK   lOKIAM   IWLAllDf.        [CHA^.TIf. 

the  panuits  of  a  roU>er.  This  was  the  kind  of 
Hft  pursued  by  such  characters  as  Gerio,  Caci»» 
Scyron,  and  Procrustes,  destroyed  by  HerctAa 
snd  Theseus ;  it  was  also  the  hi^itual  occupa- 
tion of  the  inhabitants  of  Mount  Tomarus,  as 
wdl  as  of  the  Findus  and  Lacmus,  among  wbon 
the  name  of  Ktepfftes,  (K^i^rnO)  or  robber,  is 
no  i^flbotiour.  In  this  new  calling  All  was  not 
fiHtonate.  After  some  success  gamed  near  T«- 
peleni  he  directed  his  steps  towards  liw  ohuD  of 
the  Finduf,  but  he  was  defeated  there  and  takoi 
prisoner  by  the  Vizir  of  Joannina.  llie  character 
of  the  chief  of  Avlona  saved  him  the  first  time  ; 
tiie  policy  of  that  of  Joannina  saved  httn  tlie  se- 
cond. The  Be)'s  of  Joannina,  of  Ar^ro-KawbrOj 
and  Fremeti,  as  well  as  Seltm,  Padut  <a(  Ddviao, 
insisted  on  CE^ital  punishment  being  ii^icted 
i^n  him.  The  Viar,  however,  jrf  Joannina 
dreaded  the  Beys  of  the  very  section  over  which 
lie  himsdf  presided,  at  all  times  ripe  for  a  re- 
volt -,  and  he  could  not  confide  in  those  of  Ar- 
giFo-Kastro  and  Praniti,  snA  jmkIi  less  in  SeUm, 
Pacha  of  Delvino,  'wbcne  oeiiDeotioi»  with  the 
Venetians  rendered  liim  extremely  HilMte  to  sui- 
purion.  He  was  not  sorry  to  have  it  in  his  power 
to  $iShrd  them  fresh  oconpnfeion,  and  be  Teleased 
AU,  who  gave  him  no  iur^r  cause  -ibr  inqiiie- 
tude  during  the  remainder  of  his  days.  ii3i, 
neverdieless,  hanog  cdlectedtfaesenanx  ofhii 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


QBAP.yil.]        THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  22M 

scattered  troops,  a^o  sought  to  keep  the  field. 
He  was  beaten  a&esh  near  the  sources  of  the 
Chelydnus,  and  his  soldiers  in  such  manner 
killed  or  dispersed,  that  he  was  obliged  to  seek 
refuge  alone  on  Mount  Mertzika.  There  ~  he 
found  himself  reduced  to  such  extreme  want  as 
to  be  under  the  necessity  of  pledging  his  scy- 
mitar,  all  he  had  been  able  to  save,  in  order  to 
procure  barley  for  his  horse,  no  longer  able  to 
carry  him. 

On  returning  to  Tepeleni  with  a  small  number 
of  confidential  followers,  who  rejoined  him  after 
bis  flight,  he  was  again  treated  by  his  mother  in 
a  harsher  manner  than  before.  She  not  only 
complained  loudly  of  the'repeated  disasters,  and 
the  exa^eration  of  his  prefects,  so  much  above 
his  strength  and  age,  but  she  also  reproached 
him  with  imprudence  and  cowardice,  and  went 
so  iar  as  to  threaten  to  make  him  assume  a  wo- 
man's dress,  and  employ  him  in  the  internal  oc* 
cupations  of  the  harem.  All  dissembled  his  in- 
dignation, and  waa^thereby  rendered  more  ardent 
in  his  wishes  to  withdraw  from  a  yoke  which 
pressed  heavily  uppn  him.  He  employed  all 
the  resources  of  his  mipd  to  soften  his  mother, 
and  sought  by  all  imaginable  means  to  justify  his 
conduct -in  her  eyes,  and  to  render  her  again  &• 
Tourable  to  his  views.  At  length  he  succeeded ; 
and,  through  the  force  of  solicitations,  obtained 
Q 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


StSS  TUB   IONIAN   ISLANDS.        [cHAF.  Tff. 

a  sum  of  moBey,  acconipanied  with  an  adnibrii^ 
tion  not  to  expect  any  other  aid,  as  well  as  as 
iqjuDction  to  conquer  or  die,  and  not  again  ap* 
pear  as  a  fugitive  amidst  the  tombs  of  his  an* 
cestors  and  countrymen. 

AH  immediately  raised  six  hundred  roea  with 
the  money  his  mother  had  supplied,  and  directed 
his  march  through  the  Cbelydnus  valley  towards 
Mount  Mertzika  and  Fremiti.  His  first  battle 
was  again  uqsuccessful  to  him,  and  he  was 
obliged  to  retire  with  loss.  Having  encamped 
the  remnant  of  his  troops  in  the  vicinity  of  A 
deserted  chapel,  not  fitr  from  Valera,  which  was 
shown  to  the  Author  during  his  abode  in  Alba- 
nia, be  entered  into  the  solitary  pile  to  repoH, 
as  well  as  to  meditate  on  his  bereft  situation. 
There,  says  he,  (for  it  was  from  himself  that  the 
whole  of  this  narrative  was  obtained,)  reflecting 
en  that  fortune  by  which  he  was  persecutled, 
calculating  the  enterprises  he  was  still  able  to 
attempt,  and  comparing  the  weakness  of  his 
tEieans  with  the  forces  he  had  to  combat,  he  re^ 
ffiuned  a  long  time  in  a  standj&g  posture,  me- 
chanically furrowing  up  the  ground  with  his 
stick,  which  the  violence'  of  the  sensations  he 
experienced  caused  htm  to  press  forwards  in  a 
strcmger  manner,  and  frequently  to  sttike  with 
great  ftn-ce.  The  resistande  of  a  solid  body, 
and  the  sound  wh^h  issued  from  it,  recalled  his 


3,a,l,;^dbyG00gIe 


CHAP.  VII.]        THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  22? 

attention  from  the  objects  with  which  he  had 
beeH  80  long  absorbed.  He  bent  down  and  ex- 
-  amined  the  hole  he  had  made,  and  having  di^ 
further  into  the  ground,  he  had  the  happiness  - 
to  find  a  casket,  concealed^  no  doubt,  during 
one  of  the  revolutions  which  have  so  frequently 
desolated  that  country.  The  gold  which  tb9 
casket  contained  end>led  him  to  levy  2000  men  i 
and  having  been  succesaibt  in  a  second  battl^ 
he  returned  victorious  to  Tepeleni-  From  this 
period  fortune  has  never  abandoned  him  during 
a  lapse  of  near  fifty  years  of  war  and  enterprize 
of  every  kind. 

His  new  fortune,  the  victorious  troops  he  led 
back  with  him,  his  constancy,  and  even  his  past 
misfortunes,  excited*  an  interest  in  his  &vour. 
He  had  the  address  to  gain  over  the  principal 
chie&  of  Tepeleni,  and  the  multitude  followed 
the  impnlse  of  their  leaders.  He  instantly 
threw  off  the  mask,  seized  on  the  authority, 
and  confined  his  mother  to  the  harem.  It  was 
about  this  period  that  his  brother  perished. 
The  partisans  of  Ali  Pacha  assert  that  this  bro- 
ther was  the  elder,  by  a  previous  marriage,  and 
that  All's  mother  caused  him  to  be  poisoned, 
in  order  to  secure  to  her  own  son  the  remains 
of  his  father's  inhentancer  and  free  him  from  a 
dangerous  rival.  This  report  is,  at  least,  most 
prevalent  throughout  the  vboh  of  his  states. 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


32S  THE  IONIAN   ISLANDS.        [CHAP.  VlC 

His  enemies,  on  tlie  contrary,  affirm  that  it  was 
he  himself  who  stabbed  his  brother,  having  per- 
suaded the  multitude  that  he  was  treacherous  to 
his  counQy,  and  under  a  correspondence  with 
their  enemies.  It  is  thus  also  that  the  story  is 
related  in  the  Seven  Islands.  Let  this  be  as  it 
may,  the  death  of  this  competitor  was  a  fresh 
step  towards  the  elevation  of  AU  Facha.  It 
must  not,  however,  be  understood  that  it  is  the 
intention  of  the  Author  to  justify  him  on  this 
faeadt  Notwithstanding  a  brilliant  throne  has 
too  frequently  caused  the  cotemporary  genera* 
tion  even  to  forget  the  crime  of  a  parricide,  the 
Author  is  of  opinion  that  the  suspicion  which 
hangs  over  Ali  Pacha,  of  having  been  capable  o£ 
a  fratricidal  act^  is  an  indelible  stain  imprinted 
on  his  memory.  Afler  the  death  of  her  son,  or 
son-in-law,  the  political  career  of  the  widow  of 
Veli  Bey  was  at  an  end,  and  she-did  nt^  after- 
wards appear  on  the  scene. 

Become  sole  master  in  his  small  dominion, 
Ali  thought  of  nothing  else  than  extending  its 
limits ;  but  for  this  purpose  he  required  troths, 
and  to  have  a  sufficient  body  he  stood  in  need  of 
more  money  than  hia  coffisrs  contained.  His 
means  scarcely  enabled  him  to  keep  up  an  army 
of  2000  men,  and  even  this  be  would  not  have 
been  able  to  continue  long.  With  so  weak  a 
force  he  would  indeed  have  been  able  to  over- 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.  VII.]        THE  lONUN:  ISLANDS.  230 

come  one  of  his  enemies,  but  not  the  leagoe 
which  would  have  been  formed  against  bira. 
He  therefore  resolved  to  continue  his  trade  of 
robber,  and  besieged  with  his  troops  the  whole 
of  the  defiles  leading  rfrom  the  summits  of  the 
Kudus  chain  into  Thessaly,  the  Epirus,  and 
Macedonia,  pillaging  and  ransoming  travelers 
and.  caravans,  levying  contributions  on  the  vil.- 
lages,  and  sacking  several  defenceless  towns.of 
minor  import.  The  ravages  he .  committed 
awakened  the  attention  of  the  Divan,  and.  the 
Bervendgi-Pacha,  or  Inspector-General  of  the 
High- Roads,  received  orders  to  march  out  against 
him.  The  Vizir  of  Avlona,  Kourd  Facha,  wa^ 
at  this  time  invested  with  this  office ;  he  took 
the  field,  but  AH  Bey  was  by  this  time  become 
too  strong,  and  his  military  talents,  as  well  a» 
the  valour  of  his  soldiers,  secured  him  the  vic- 
tory in  all  his  rencounters. 

Kourd  I^ha  was,  in  &ct,  soon  obliged  to 
enter  into  negotiations.  It  was  then  that  the 
superiority  of  All's  genius  met  with  the  first  op- 
portunity of  displaying  itself.  He  employed  all 
his  eloquence  to  captivate  the  man  who  was  to 
be  his  judge,  and  be  even  succeeded.  Kourd 
Facha  not  only  ceased  to  persecute  Ali,  but  he 
also  entered  into  direct  and  friendly  relations 
with  him.  Some  persons  pretend  that  Ali  himp 
SfHf  C&tised  a  report  to  be  circulate^  that  Kourd 
7 

DiailizodbvGoOglc 


t30  -THE   lOKIAV   ISLANDS.        ^CHAF.  VII. 

iPacba  wished  to  bestow  his  daughter  on  him  in 
marriage ;  and  his  enemies  add,  that  the  dei> 
viaes  opposed  this  measure,  in  consequence  of 
the  imputed  assassination  of  his  brother.  Soon 
after  this  new  connection  he  united  his  forces 
to  those  of  Kourd  Pacha,  at  that  time  in  a  state 
(^  -war&re  against  the  Vizir  of  Skutari,  Mah- 
moud  Fticha.  Ilie  military  exploits  of  Ali  se- 
cured victory  to  the  banners  of  the  Viair  of  Av- 
lona,  who  was  thereby  enabled  to  make  an  ad- 
vantageous peace.  Such  important  services  ob- 
tained for  Ali  the  most  e£Scaciou3  protection  of 
his  suzerin,  or  supreme  feudal  chief,  now  be- 
-come  his  ally;  and,  dexterous  in  availing  Urn- 
self  of  circumstances,  he  took  possession  of  his 
'Other's  inheritance,  and  soon  proceeded  to 
humble  the  Bey  of  Kaminitza  and  the  town  df 
Goritza,  which  he  took  and  pillaged.  On  re- 
tiring to  Tepeleni,  he  directed  his  attention  to 
■ihe  search  of  an  alliance  by  mcMis  of  marriage. 
At  that  time  he  was  rich,  powerful,  and  hedd  in 
high  consideration.  The  Pachaof  Argiro-'Kas- 
tro  granted  his  daughter  to  him,  by  whom  he 
-had  his  two  eldest  fions,  Mouktar  and  Veli. 
'When  he  married  he  was  only  twenty  years  of 
age. 

Some  years  ailer  his  marriage  a  dissension 
took  place  between  the  two  sons  of  the  Pacha 
of  Argiro-Kastro,  of  which  possibly  Ali  was  the 


.iiizodbvGoogle 


instigator.  ITie  r^ret  and  anxiety  of  these-do- 
mestic  disccMrds  Accasioned  the  death  of  tibe 
&tber,  and  his  eldest  son,  who  succeeded  Ium, 
mas  assasanated  bj  his  brother.  Ali,  attentive 
to  his  ovn  interests,  hastened  to  allay  the  dvii 
war  this  murder  had  given  rise  to ;  but  the 
people,  who  had  penetrated  his  design,  opposed 
Mm  by  fi>rce,  and  he  was  compelled  to  withdraw 
and  wait  for  aiM^her  opportunity,  which  the 
wisdom  of  the  a3bove  inhabitants  has  hitherto 
prevented  from  taking  place. 

Aboutthis  period  he  is  stated  to  have  entered 
into  a  war  with  the  Greek  inhabitants  (^  lie- 
l)ov6,  who,  aAer  several  years'  resistance,  were 
at  length  ob%ed  to  submit  Near  the  same 
time  a  civil  war  which  broke  out  in  the  town  of 
Cbarmova  furnished  him  with  the  means  of 
making  himself  master  of  the  place,  when  he 
made  away  with  the  chief  of  the  country,  I^pas 
Oglou,  (the  son  of  a  priest,  and  in  Albanian 
Kraue-Frifti,)  massacred  or  diqiersed  the  inha- 
^lutants,  and  destroyed  the  town.  These  two 
expeditions  made  him  master  of  the  whole  valley 
of  theChelydnus  in  front  of  Argiro-Kastro,  which 
he  held  under  obaervation,and  whose  inhabitants, 
on  their  side,  established  a  species  of  redoubt, 
and  a  post  of  SOO  men  on  the  bridge  situated 
below  the  city.  He  also  availed  himsdf  of  the 
abov.e  conquests,  which  had  brought  him  neanr 
1 

DolizodbyGoOgle 


M  THE   IONIAN   ISLANDS.       [ CHAP.  Til. 

to  Josnnina,  to  make  attempts  on  the  latter  dty, 
M  well  as  on  Arta,  but  he  was  r^>elled.  The 
ancient  Pacha  of  Joannina,  to  whom  he  was 
under  personal  obligations,  at  that  time  no  longer 
existed  there. 

J\.  little  time  afterwards  tfaie  Porte  entertained 
a  wish  to  rid  itself  of  the  Sandgiak  of  Delvino, 
Selim  Pacha.  This  governor  had  delivered 
over,  or  rather  sold,  to  the  Venetians  the  town 
and  territory  of  Bucintr6,  which  ought  to  have 
been  yielded  up  to  them  by  the  last  treaty,  but 
which  the  Turks  still  retained.  -  Ali  Bey  oflered 
to. take  charge  of  this  commission  on  condition 
of  his  being  named  Sandgiak  of  Delvino,  which 
isa  Pachalic  withtwo  tails.  Having  succeeded 
in  bis  demand,  he  took  an  <^portunity  of  in- 
troducing himself  to  Selim,  and  having  insi- 
nuated himself  into  bis  confidence,  as  well  as 
that  of  bis  son  Mustapha,  he  was  enabled  to  sur- 
round them  with. his  own  satellites.  He  then 
caused  the  &ther  to  be  beheaded,  and  the  son  to 
be  arrested,  but  soon  afterwards  he  was  com- 
pelled to  fly,  in  order  to  escape  from  the  indig- 
nation and  ^vengeance  of  the  vassals  of  Selim^ 
and  he  indeed  lost  the  ftuits  of  bis  perfidy. 

.In  this  interval  Kourd  Pacha  had' been  dis.. 
graced,  and  this  event  dismembered  the  Sand- 
giak of  Avlona,  of  which  several  districts  passed 
under  the  coqtrol  of  the  Vizir  of  Skutari,  and 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.  VII.]        THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  238 

Others  were  united  to  the  Sandgiak  of  Elbassan, 
vhose  Pacha  was  named  a  Vizir,  and  fixed  his 
residence  at  Berat  The  district  of  Tepeleni, 
t(^ther  with  the  acquisitions  of  Ali  along  the 
Driho,  then  became  independent.  Viezy  AU 
Facba,  a  native  of  Constantinople,  was  at  that 
time  created  Dervendgi-Pacha.  He  was  a  weak 
■nd  narrow-minded  man,  and  unable  to  adopt 
the  proper  means  of  fulfilling  the  duties  of  his 
cha^e.  Ali  caused  himself  to  be  proposed  as 
his  h'eutenant,and  the  Dervendgi-Pacha,  dazzled 
hy  the  illusive  hope  of  dissipating  the  brigands 
hy  emplojring  the  most  celebrated  of  them, 
named  him  to  the  office.  At  that  time  the 
diiefi  of  the  Klephtes  became  legitimate  con- 
querors, provided  with  the  diplomas  of  AH  De- 
pedelengi,  the  surname  given  to  the  hero  of  our 
narrative,  from  the  place  of  his  birth,  called  in 
Turkish  Depedelen,  to  whom  the  douceurs  of 
^e  above  chi^s,  and  his  own  exactions,  brought 
inasum  estimated  at  150,000  piastres,  or  300,000 
fiancs.  This  traffic,  however,  did  not  last  longer 
than  about  six  months,  at  the  end  of  which  the 
Divan,  finding  that  no  road  in  European  Turkey 
was  any  longer  free,  was  under  the  necessity  of 
divesting  the  new  Dervendgi-Pacha  of  his  office. 
At  this  period  (1787)  a  war  broke  out  between 
Austria,  Russia,  and  Turkey.  The  money  Ali 
Bey  had  been  able  to  collect  served  him  to  pay 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


884  THE  IONIAN   tSLASDB.       {[cBAP.  VJI. 

I^;ait8  at  Constantinople,  and  to  obtain  an  «m- 
l^yraent.  He  served  with  his  Albanian  corpa 
in  the  arm  J  of  the  Grand  Vizir,  Joussovf  Pacha. 
His  conduct  during  this  war  was  brilliant ;  his 
military  talents,  uid  ^  valour  of  hti  sc^era^ 
inur^  by  twenty  years  of  war  and  victory,  olv 
tained  for  him  general  esteem,  and  at  the  same 
time  tended  greatly  to  enrich  htm.  But  his  atr 
tendon  to  the  war  and  the  interests  cf  the  Ot- 
toman empire  did  not,  however,  wiUidraw  faim 
from  bis  ambitious  projects.  Hitherto  he  bad 
no  government,  he  was  without  a  title,  and  he 
wished  to  be  a  sovereign,  whatever  was  tbe  sa^ 
crifice.  Knowing  the  projects  of  Russia  oa 
Greece,  and  fully  aware  of  the  secret  measures 
of  the  Russian  government  in  Albania,  the  Epi- 
rus,  and  Morea,  he  resolved  to  turn  himself  on 
that  side,  in  order  to  secure  to  himself  a  point 
of  support  in  case  the  war  proved  disadvanta- 
geous to  the  Porte,  as  well  as  in  eveiy  othcr 
circumstance  that  might  £ivour  his  views  or  in» 
terests.  Under  the  pretext  of  obtaining  tbe  re- 
lease of  Mahmud  Pacha,  one  of  his  nqphews 
who  had  been  made  prisoner,  he  entered  into 
correspondence  with  Prince  Potemkin.  This 
correspondence  soon  became  active,  and  took  a 
direction  favourable  to  the  interests  of  Russia, 
who  at  that  time  could  rely  on  Ali  Bey  m  case 
of  a  frQsh  expedition  in  the  Mediterranean. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CfiDlP.Vn.^        3VE  lOKIAR  IBlAITDS.  S3S 

The  Audior  himself  saw  at  Joaonina  a  watok 
set  m  diamonds  which  Prince  Fotonkin  caused 
to  be  presented  to  Ali,  af^er  peace  was  signed, 
tts  it  was  then  said,  in  testimony  of  esteem  for 
his  bravery  and  talents.  The  correspond^ice 
of  Ali  with  Russia  lasted  till  he  himself  became 
master  of  Joannina,  as  well  as  nearly  of  all  AI- 
faania,  when  he  had  no  longer  any  direct  int& 
rest  in  aiding  the  above  power  to  establish  itselT 
in  his  vicinity. 

After  the  peace,  finding  himself  possessed  c^ 
considerable  riches,  and  at  the  head  of  a  small 
«rmy  inured  to  war  and  devoted  to  him,  AU 
Bey  obtained  sufficient  credit  at  Constantinople 
to  have  himself  named  Pacha  of  Trikala,  in 
-Thessaly.  His  vicinity  terrified  the  Beys  of  Jo- 
anoina,  and  particularly  the  Greek  merchants  of 
■the  latter  city,  who  feared  his  exactions,  and, 
above  all,  lest  he  should  take  possession  of 
their  city,  whose  government  was  at  that  time 
-vacant.  Both  the  above  two  parties  nego- 
tiated near  the  Divan  in  order  to  remove  this 
^nger.  During  this  time  he  was  establishing 
himself  as  absolute  master  in  all  Thessaly  except 
Larissa,  where  he  was  unable  to  enter,  being 
obUged  to  be  satisfied  with  the  tributes  the  Beys 
thereof  paid  to  him. 

The  most  complete  anarchy,  however,  reigned 
at  Joannina.    The  Beys,  divided  in  their  inte- 


^olizodbyGoOglf 


336  THE  lONIAK  ISLAHDB.        [CHAP.  Til. 

rests,  carried  on  war  among  themselves,  and  the 
inhabitants  compelled  to  take  part  in  these  quar- 
rels were  reciprocally  ransomed  by  all  parties. 
The  opportunity  was  too  favourable  for  All  not 
to  hasten  to  avail  himself  of  it.  He  presented 
himself  almost  unexpectedly  before  the  city, 
whilst,  through  his  agents  at  Constantinople,  he 
solicited  the  ^rman  which  was  to  confer  upon 
him  the  title  of  its  Sandgiak.  The  Beys  united 
at  the  first  news  of  his  approach,  and  marched 
out  to  meet  him.  They  were  beaten,  but  Ali 
Facha  was  unable  to  ent^r  into  the  city.  The 
Joannina  agents  near  the  Divan  had,  neverthe- 
less, obtained  a  Jirman  forbidding  him  £'om  en- 
tering into  the  city ;  the  Beys  had  received  ad- 
vice of  the  circumstance,  and  the  courier  was 
hourly  expected.  He  at  length  arrivedj  and  de- 
livered his  dispatches  to  Ali.  Tliey  were  pub- 
licly read,  and  nothing  could  equal  the  surprise 
of  the  inhabitants  when  they  heard  their  con- 
tents. '  He  bad  been  created  Dervendgi-Pacha, 
and  received  the  order  to  enter  Joannina 
without  any  delay.  They  were  agitated  with 
alarm,  but  the  alternative  of  obedience  alone 
remained. 

Ali  Facha,  judging  that  the  fiivourable  mo- 
ment was  not  yet  come  to  display  the  severity 
and  also  the  harshness  of  his  character,  entered 
in  a  friendly  manner,  promised  the  inhabitants  to 


_  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


CHAP.  VllO        THE  lOHUN  ISLAJTOS.  «S7 

protect  them  against  the  Beys,  and  the  latter 
to  preserve  their  fortunes  and  honours;  aft^* 
which  he  posted  a  strong  garrison  in  the  Kas- 
tron  and  returned  to  Trikala.  A  short  time  af^ 
terwards  it  was  discovered  that  the  Jirman  of 
which  he  had  made  use  had  been  forged  by  him- 
self, on  the  advices  he  transmitted  by  bis  agents 
of  the  real  orders  he  was  about  to  receive  from 
Uie  Porte.  But  he  was  now  master  of  the  city, 
and  it  was  no  longer  possible  to  drive  him  out. 
Nevertheless,  partly  through  caresses,  and  partly 
through  menaces,  he  obtained  from  the  inha- 
bitants a  petition,  soliciting^  the  Sandgiak  of  Jo> 
annina  for  him.  This  petition,  and  the  money 
he  was  enabled  to  lavish,  did  in  &ct  obtain  for 
him  the  above  government,  as  well  as  the  office 
of  Dervendgi-Pacha.  The  latter  charge,  by 
^ving  him  the  superintendance  of  the  police  of 
ihe  high  roads,  and  placing  under  his  orders  the 
governors  of  several  provinces,  has  singulftrly 
aided  him  to  extend  his  power  and  increase  his 
riches.  Soon  afterwards  he  married  his  two  sons 
to  two  daughters  of  the  Vizir  of  Berat,  Ibrahim 
Pacha,  and  himself  espoused  the  rich  widow  of  a 
I^cha,  who  brought  to  him  a  considerable  dowry 
of  lands  in  the  £pirus. 

,  At  this  time  being  apprehensive  of  the  jea- 
lousy of  the  Porte,  as  well  as  of  the  intrigues 
of  his  eaemies  at  Constantiqc^le,  he  sought  out 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


2SS  THE   IffiNIAN  ISLANDS.        [cHAP.TII. 

the  protection  of  France,  which  he  obtained 
trough  the  means  f^  the  Consul  at  Frevesa, 
and  thus  dissipated  the  storm  by  which  he  was 
threatened.  Afler  this  he  endeavoured  to  enter 
into  a  correspondence  similar  to  that  he  had 
kept  up  with  Russia,  and  even  wrote  to  Louia 
XVI. ;  but  the  French  minister  declined  ac- 
cepting his  proiiositioDs,  by  reminding  him  that 
he  was  a  subject  of  the  Ottoman  empire.  Fu- 
rious at  an  answer  so  -little  satis&ctory,  he  made 
the  whole  weight  of  his  anger  fall  on  the  French 
Consul  at  Arta,  and  by  his  ill-treatment  com- 
pelled him  to  &y  in  order  to  secure  his  life. 
Whilst  he  was  carrying  on  this  fruitless  negotifr. 
don  he  did  not  lose  sight  of  his  project  of  ren- 
dering himself  master  of  Southern  Albania.  He 
at  first  directed  his  attention  towards  Klissoura, 
an  important  post,  and  too  near  the  place  of  his 
nativity  to  be  indifferent  to  him ;  and  it  was,  be- 
sides, the  key  of  the  dominions  of  the  Vizir  of 
Berat.  The  first  step  he  took  was  to  give  one- 
of  bis  nieces  in  marriage  to  one  of  the  sons  of 
Veli  Bey,  chief  of  the  country,  and  who  had 
just  died.  Once  introduced  into  the  fiKniIy»  he 
loon  planted  dissensions  among  its  inembera, 
and  making  use  of  this  pretext  to  draw  the 
young  beys  to  his  court,  he  made  away  with 
them,  and  seized  on  Klissoura,  as  well  as  their 
iMVperty.    The  capture  of  Klissoura  fitdlitated 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


GBAP.  VII.]        THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  2S9 

to  bim  the  means  of  pcKsessing  himself  of  the 
cantOQ  of  Fremiti,  which  made  htm  master  of 
the  whole  course  of  the  Vojutzay  and  paved  the 
way  to  the  invasion  of  Avlona,  which  he  enve-- 
loped  on  all  sides.  Whilst  he  was  thus  extend- 
ing himself  towards  the  N.,  AH  Facha  attacked 
and  dispossessed  the  Facha  of  Arta,  established 
it  is  true  in  one  of  the  districts  of  the  Sandgiak 
of  Joannina,  but  from  whom  he  also  carried  off 
the  government  of  Acamania.  He  engaged  in 
a  war  against  the  Souliots  and  Fhilates,  and  de- 
prived the  Facha  of  Delvino  of  the  districts  of 
Paramithia  and  Margariti,  which,  however,  he 
was  not  able  to  reduce  into  entire  submission. 

As  soon  as  the  peace  of  Campo  Formio  had 
united  the  Seven  Islands  under  the  protection 
of  France,  this  new  vicinity  forcibly  attracted 
the  attention  of  AH.  He  saw,  or  thought  he 
saw,  a  storm  preparing  against  Turkey.  The 
change  of  government  and  the  conquests  of 
France  appe^ed  to  him  to  forebode  events 
which  must  necessarily  change  the  relations  of 
the  latter  with  the  Ottoman  empire.  Nothing 
mote  was  wanting  to  induce  bim  to  eater  into 
correspondence  with  Napoleon,  at  that  time  Ge- 
neraX  in  Chief  of  the  army  of  Italy.  He  at 
least  hoped  thereby  to  secure  to  himself  the  sup., 
port  and  protection  of  the  Governor  of  C<h^, 
and  obtain  instructions  foF  the  latter  that  might 


DiailizodbvGoOglc  ■ 


S40  THE   IONIAN   ISLANDS.        [cBAP.  Vlf. 

be  favourable  to  him^  of  which  he  might  avaU 
himself  for  the  promotion  of  his  own  interests. 
He  succeeded}  and  the  first  fruits  of  ^ese  new 
connexions  were  the  possession  of  the  Greek 
towns  of  the  coast,  which  brought  him  nearer 
to  Chimara,  placed  him  in  communication  with 
the  sea*  and  furnished  him  with  fi'esh  means 
against  the  Sandgiak  of  Delvino,  Muatapha 
Pacha,  son  of  Selim.  He  was  not  deceived  in 
the  whole  of  his  calculations,  since,  in  fact, 
France  entered  into  hostilities  with  the  Ottomui 
empire  through  the  invasion  of  Egypt.  The 
consequence  could  not  faH  of  being  a  declanu 
tion  of  war  on  the  part  of  the  Divan ;  it  indeed 
took  place,  and  Ali  Pacha  availed  himself  of  it 
in  order  to  complete  the  consolidation  of  his 
own  power.  Even  at  the  time  that  he  was  in 
intimate  relation  with  the  French  Governor  of 
the  Seven  Islands,  a  command  then  held  by  Ge- 
neral Chabot,  at  Constantinople  he  was  making 
a  parade  of  the  zeal  with  which  he  had  ;»^o- 
.  ceeded  to  reduce  the  faithless  towns  of  the 
coast,  and  to  subject  them  to  the  Ottoman 
laws.  For  this  he  again  obtained  fresh  rewards;. 
Shortly  afterwards,  in  order  to  sustain  his 
credit  at  Constantinople,  he  marched  iro(^  to 
Vidin,  against  Passvan  Oglou.  He  was  engaged 
in  this  expedition  when  he  received  advices  of 
.the  capture  of  Malta,  and  the. landing  of  the 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.  Til.]       THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  341 

French  army  in  Egypt.  He  waa  still  employed 
ioi  the  same  service  when  he  learnt  that  the  Forte 
was  about  to  declare  war  against  the  French  re- 
public, and  to  take  part  in  the  league  formed 
against  it.  He  foresaw  that  France  was  on  the 
eve  of  lowng  the  Seven  Islands ;  that  she  was 
unable  U}  resist  the  forces  preparing  to  attack 
them,  and  he  resolved  to  be  in  readiness  to  avail 
himself  of  the  events  that  might  occur  in  his  &- 
vour.  He  therefore  returned  rapidly  to  Joan- 
nina,  and,  as  a  better  guidance  to  the  line  of 
conduct  he  had  to  observe,  his  first  care  was  to 
learn  the  exact  state  of  defence  in  which  Corfo 
was  left,  in  order  that  he  might  not  uselessly 
quarrel  with  the  French  in  case  they  were  able  to 
hold  out  in  the  above  place,  and  thus  partly  re- 
tain possession  of  the  Seven  Islands.  As  soon 
as  he  arrived,  he  caused  General  Chabot  to  be 
informed  of  the  declaration  of  war  aboiit  to  be 
puUished,  and  the  expected  arrival  of  a  com- 
bined Russian  and  Turkish  fleet.  He  at  the 
same  time  feigned  to  be  extremely  apprehensive 
with  t^ard  t<>  his  own  personal  safety  ^m  the 
arrival  of  the  Russians^  and  the  presence  of  an 
Ottoman  army  in  that  quailer ;  and  be  proposed 
to  the  Creneral  to  send  a  person  to  him  vtith 
whom  he  might  discuss  and  fix  the  basis  of  a 
trea^  of  alliance  with  France;  This  fear  ap- 
peared ao  much  the  more^atural,  because  it  was 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


9^2  THE   I9NIAN  IlLAHDa.        [CHAF.  VII. 

well  known  that  tbd  politicfd  oonduot  bi  AU, 
his  rapid  a^^aBduenienty  aad  the  viol«Bc«  with 
which  he  had  diipeuesBed,  or  ruhcr  itrippcd, 
the  governors  established  by  the  Porte^  muat 
have  diBpIeaied  the  latter  govemmeni.  With 
regard  to  the  Russians,  their  known  prdjects  on 
Greece,  and  the  hopes  which  the  Greeks  openlj 
tmilt  on  dieir  succour,  rendered  the  apprefaeti- 
4{ons  of  All  eKtreiiiely  founded. 

The  A^taant  General  Rose  was  selected  by 
General  Chabot,  and  sent  to  Joannina }  and  die 
.  choice  preferably  fell  upon  him  because  he  was 
Oiarried  to  a  Greek  woman  of  the  latter  city, 
and  bad  ooanedtiiDns  there  which  it  was  believed 
jaight  prove  udcAil  to  hioi.  AU  Pacha  entered 
into  nt^tiatiob  ;  but  every  thit^  was  ddayed, 
ia  order  to  gaiA  tim«y  ind  to  place  hwi  io  a  si- 
tuation fif  ripening  his  prefects  and  fixing  his 
•determinatioBfl.  Repeated  and  prolonged  ifo- 
-casHons,  aa  well  as  studied  and  coincident  ob- 
jections, obl%ed  the  Adjutant  General  Rose 
wieeessivdy  iA  devdope  to  hiaa  the  means  oi 
d«fmoe  h^  by  Corfii^  and  to  makt  him  ac- 
ifuJIHited  with  thb  re^  ^tuatioa  ef  the  Brencli 
tepublicw  Perhaps  this  officer,  extremdy  «a- 
thnaUe  hi  other  ref^eces^  was  not  possessed  of 
<uffici«at  address  or  distrnst  t£  tiie  character  «f 
All  Pacha  to  obviate  captious  questions,  Cs-  to 
•Mw^  them  coDfbmaably  to  the  iatercats  of  his 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


CBAT.  th.]     Tax  laaiut  tsLAXDa.  US 

gorenuocnt.  Let  this  foe  as  it  may,  AU  Pacdw 
acquired  the  ooaviction  that  Corfu  was  unable 
to  m^e  a  kxig  de&Dce,  and  that  fVance  was 
aot  in  ■  sitaation  to  succour  ^e  troops  she  had 
tbtue,  Fran  that  time  his  resolution  was  JSsrmed, 
«iMi  be  vms  muler  ha  further  a^qvehensions  cf 
titrowing  off  tiie  mask.  He  caused  the  Adju* 
tatitl3eaerBl  fioM  t0  be  arrested,  loaded  him 
iritk  iroaa,  and  had  huo  conveyed  to  CoDBta»> 
liiiople,  where  this  officer  died  of  the  ill-ireat- 
neat  be  bad  espedMced.  To  the  Forte  AU 
enhanced  the  great  service  he  bad  rendered  1^ 
arMsting,  as  ins  represented  the  affiur,  a  spy 
who  bad  obtained  access  to  Joaoiiina.  How>- 
svcTi  in  order  to  retwla  at  all  buncB  the  xaeans 
a£  obviafiDg  the  ill  consequences  of  such  cook 
duet*  in  caw  he  sbouJLd  hereafter  stand  in  need 
of  the  French  govemmeai,  be  caused  it  to  be 
Mpotied  iu  bis  doowoiMW  that  tbisarrest  was  iw 
otfaer  tbaa  *  re^»al  for  the  seisure  of  an  ina- 
gioary  vessel  richly  laden  £cn  his  account,  oi 
wbieb  be  said  Genttal  Cbabot  had  deprived  him. 
At « laitcur  period  be  Mistaised  thts  untruth,  and 
feren  had  aufficieRt  address  to  cause  it  to  be  bfe- 
lisved  by  H-  Poucp»yiUe«  the  Consul  Genecai 
Mtat  to  Sm  by  the  Bwperor  N^wleoo. 

Soon  aftee  l4}is  violation  of  the  rights  of  na^ 
liiNW,  be  attacked  and  ioak  Bvvesa,  as  «e  shafi 
hmut  90taMaD  ta  MiJce.    T3m  wiliwiiwnt  »i<g» 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


244  THE  IONIAN   ISLANDS-        [CHAF.TII^ 

and  capture  of  Corfu  also  gave  him  possession 
of  Vonitza,  .  Gomenitza,  and  Bucintr6.  He 
willingly  would  have  had  St.  Maura  and  Parga, 
but  he .  was  not  sufficiently  strong  for  such  an 
enterprise.  The  treaty  of  25th  Afarch,  ISOO, 
placed  the  above  four  towns  under  his  oppres- 
sive protection ;  the  fifth  ought  likewise  to  -have 
experienced  the  same  fate^  and  he  did  not  £ui 
to  claim  it  on  several  occasions.  But  the  cou^ 
rageous  (^position  of  the  brave  inhabitants  <^ 
Parga  prevailed,  and  hitherto  he  has  never  been,, 
able  to  gain  entrance  into  their  town.  .  .  . 
Previous  to  his  obtaining  a  powerful  establish- 
ment in  Albania  he  had  soi%ht  the  -protection 
of  Russia,  as  we  have  already  pointed  out;  but 
as  soon  as  he  had  secured  to  himself  the  govern-  - 
ment  of  Joannina,  and  had  extended  his  domi- 
nions, he  neglected. his  relations  with  the:above 
power,  whose  protection  would  have  become 
dangerous  to  him  if  he  had  aided  its  establish- 
ment in  his  own  vicinity.  As  long  as  he  saw  . 
the  Russians  in  the  Seven  Islands,  he  was  jealous 
aod  h^ted  them.  His  conduct  towards  them  in 
this  particular  has  always  been  constant,  and 
the  motives  of  his  actions  are  only  to  be  found 
in  his  own  interests,  or  originate  in  his  ambi^ 
tion.  The  clauses  of  the  treaty  of  25th  March 
hsjd, placed  the  Ionian  republic  under  the,  JMnt 
protection^  of  Russia  and  Turkey,  and  the  Rm- 


bv  Google 


csh&f:  vn.]      the  ionian  islands.  'i4S 

sian  forces,  in'  fact,  soon  afterwards  retired.  In 
these  two  circiimstances  AH  conceived  the  pos- 
sibility of  seizing  on  Corfu  and  St-  Maura,  si- 
tuated opposite  to  bis  own  dominions,  the  pos- 
session of  which  woiild  have' consolidated  his 
power  on  the  neighbouring  continent.  It  was 
he  who,  under  pretext  of  sustaining  the  preten- 
sions of  the  nobility,  excited  the  lirst  commo- 
tions which  broke  out  in  the  islands,  with  an  in- 
tention of  availing  himself  of  them.  He  there- 
fore took  this  opportunity  to  represent  to  the 
Porte  that  the  only  means  of  restoring  tranquil- 
lity would  be  to  allow  him  to  garrison  Corfu, 
Parga,  andSt.  Maura. 

'  His  representations  and  his  gold  nearly  pre- 
vailed at  Constantinople  over  the  opposition  of 
Uie  Ionian  senate,  and  he  was  on  the  point  of 
-  obtaining  the  order  he  solicited.  The  Russian 
agents,  however,  who  on  their  side  had  fa- 
voured the  popular  party,  prevented  him ;  and 
at  their  instigation  the  senate  threw  themselves 
into  the  arms  of  Russia ;  and,  fortunately  for 
the  Seven  Islands,  the  troops  of  the  latter  power 
arrived  and  established  themselves  there.  This 
"measure,  which  overturned  all  his  prefects,  did 
not  fail  to  increase  his  jealousy  against  the  Rus- 
sians, and  from  that  moment  he  directed  his 
thoughts  to  the  means  of  securing  the  protec- 
tion of  another  power.     He  long  hesitated  be- 


,i,z<,i:,;  Google 


349  V^  IONIAN  ittAm*.      [caip.Tu. 

tween  France  wid  I^gkad,  but  the  first  was 
then  too  iar  removed  from  him  j  add  the  First 
Consul,  with  whom  he  had  already  been  under 
relations,  vas,  besides,  too  mucit  oceapied  £oe 
bim  to  rely  on  an  efficaciout  protectbn.  The 
presence  of  a  Briti^  squadrOA,  which  had  a^ 
proached  Corfli,  and  held  the  Ionian  Ttpabiie 
undfF  maritime  contr<^,  enabled  AH  to  fix  loi 
resolves.  He  succeeded  in  estaUishing  a  cot- 
respondcnce  with  the  &itish  Admiral,  and  a£ 
terwards  extended  his  lelattons,  and  even  pre- 
vailed in  having  the  Consul  bdongii^  to  th« 
Mores  deputed  to  confer  with  him  at  Joannina. 
It  was  at  that  time  pretended  that  he  had  cmt- 
ckided  a  secret  convention  with  the  British  go- 
Ternment,  but  no  c^cial  document  has  tran- 
tpired  to  prove  the  fact.  All  these  measures 
were  reduced  to  attempts  and  negotiations, 
which  the  exaggeratiAB  of  his  pretensions,  and 
Ihe  political  sitttation  under  which  EaghtBd 
stood  with  regard  to  Russia  and  Turkey,  ren- 
dered inadmissible. 

Whilst  his  future  prcgeets,  and  a  wish  to  coa- 
sdlidate  his  power,  as  veil  as  to  %ui«  anM>ng 
ihe  powers  of  Europe,  nade  bim  foUow  t»p  tbesft 
various  intrigues  and  negotiations,  whidi  at 
each  moment  changed  aspect  without  tkcir  ob- 
ject being  in  any  way  altered,  hia  ambition,  id- 
ways  restless  and  on  the  alert,  did  not  niflbr  him 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CHAP.  VU.]        THE  IONIAN  MLANOk.  M7 

to  lose  sight  of  his  own  ag^aadixennnt,  or  dw 
means  of  amassing  freah  richea.  The  influenc* 
he  was  anxious  to  retain  with  the  divan,  tba 
agents  he  kept  up  in  all  the  neighbouring  pro- 
vinces, and  those  he  employed  in  the  interior 
police  of  his  country,  coat  him  consid«ratd* 
sums,  and  these  he  was  desirous  to  replace. 
The  expenses  he  was  under  at  Constantinople 
ought  to  have  diminished  in  [Hvportion  to  tb« 
increase  of  his  power ;  not  only  heeause  a  weak 
government  like  that  of  the  Ott<»aaas  is  undw 
the  necessity  of  temporizing  wi^  its  poweiilA 
vassals,  but  because  by  multiplying  the  offictf 
oi  which  it  could  dispose  it  increased  the  num- 
ber of  its  own  creatures.  These  two  considera- 
tions engaged  him  to  avail  himself  of  Uie  fi^ 
vourable  opinion  of  the  divan,  which  he  had  un 
quired  by  his  conduct  since  the  year  1799,  and 
porticulaiiy  through  the  manner  in  which  h« 
iiad  caused  his  operattons  to  be  viewed. 

Iq  conformity  to  his  endeavours,  he  n^  ob- 
tained  the  office  of  Roumeli  Valoobi,  which, 
united  to  that  of  Dervendgi  P^cha,  placed  him 
in  a  situation  to  raise  his  power  to  that  height 
on  which  it  now  stands.  In  &ct  the  latter  -of- 
fice, by  entrusting  to  his  care  the  superintend* 
ance  of  the  police  of  the  high-roads,  placed  in 
his  hands  the  interior  poHce  of  tha  provinces, 
Vhich  could  only  be  exercised  1^  agents  entirely 

DpiizodbyGoogle 


248  THE   IONIAN.  ISLANDS.       QCHAP.  VII. 

subservient  to  his  influence.  The  first  office, 
which  corresponds  to  that  of  military  governor- 
general  of  all  Roumelia,  that  is,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  districts  of  Constantinople,  Bos- 
nia, and  Servia,  of  all  the  rest  of  European  Tur- 
key, gave  him  the  supreme  authority  over  all 
Uie  governors  of  the  various  provinces.  He 
well  knew  how  to  improve  the  tenure  <tf  both 
commands  to  his  own  advantage.  Compelled 
by  the  duties  of  his  office  to  visit  the  provinces 
under  his  jurisdiction,  he  did  not  Ml  to  comply 
with  an  obligation  which  brought  him  in  im- 
mense treasures.  It  was  at  this  time  that  he 
pillaged  the  city  of  Monastir,  and  carried  away 
for. his  own  account  nineteen  waggons  laden 
with  gold,  silver,  and  other  valuable  efiects. 
Being  charged  to  collect  into  the  imperial  trea- 
sury the  arrears  of  contributions,  as  well  in 
money  as  in  kind,  he  increased  them  in  the  pro- 
portion of  fivm  three  to  five,  llie  terror  his 
name  inspired  forced  the  inhabitants  of  the  pro< 
vinces  on  which  the  same  had  been  imposed  to 
pay  without  delay,  and  the  surplus  of  two-6fths 
remained  to  himself  for  his  expenses  of  collec- 
tion. On  this  occasion,  besides  money  and 
other  articles,  20,00O  sheq)  were  added  to  his 
other  numerous  flocks.  In  a  word,  his  exactions 
then  wrested  from  the  provinces  a^e  estimated  ' 
at  1  o,OQQ,ooo  of  piastres,  or  20,ooo,000  of  francs. 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


CHAP.  VIlO       ^niE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  249 

.  and  this  calculation  is  by  no  means  exaggerated. 
Yet  this  was  not  the  only  advantage  he  derived 
by  the  offices  he  had  solicited  and  obtained. 
They  ie&.  at  his  disposal  all  the  districts  of  Ma- 
cedonia, and  of  the  Sandgiak  of  Negropont» 
which  hitherto  he  had  not  been  able  to  control, 
but  of  which  a  descriptive  outline  has  been 
given  in  a  precedii^  chapter. 

The  victory  of  Austerlitz,  and  the  peace  of 
Presburg,  recalled  his  attention  towards  France. 
The  union  of  Dalmatia  and  Venetian  Albania  to 
thekiDgdoni.ofItaly,andthepjesenceofaFrench 
army,  which  guarded  these  countries  and  occu- 
pied Ragusa,  brought  him  almost  in  contact  with 
a  power  with  which  be  had  already  twice  entered 
into  negotiations,  though  the  first  time  without 
success.  He  considered,  and  with  just  reason, 
that  in  politics  the  remembrance .  of  the  past 
ought  always  to  disappear  before  present  inte- 
rests ;  and  that  an  infraction,  and  even  an  ante- 
rior aSence,  must  be  forgotten  when  compared 
to  the  advantage  a  new  connection  .with  him 
might  offer.  France  was  then  in  a  state  of  hos- 
tility with  Russia,  who  had  just  seized  on  Cat- 
taro  i  and  the  means  of  creating  inquietude  to 
the  latter  power  in  the  Seven  Islands,  could  not 
&il  to  be  agreeable  to  the  first.  Such  was  his 
calculation ;  and  he  was  not  deceived.'  He  se* 
cretly  sent  agents  to  the  Emperor  Napoleon,  so- 
1 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


UO  THE  IONIAN   ISX.AIRU.        [CBAP.  Vn. 

liddiig  tbit  •  rAudent  codiuI  might  be  jent  new 
him,  throu^  the  medium  of  whom  he  might 
bie  able  more  easily  to  corre^ond  with  the 
French  gorenunent.  Hb  request  v/m  granted ; 
and  «ooD  afterwards  M.  Beiuerei,  who  had  for- 
merly been  hU  prisoner,  proceeded  to  Joan- 
Diaa,  accompanied  by  M.  Fouqueville,  v/ho,  after 
passing  some  days  in  the.  capacity  of  a  simple 
traveller,  obtained  a  special  audienoe ;  after 
which  he  assumed  the  cfaaracter  of  C(UiiuI-ge> 
-  neral,  reudent  at  Joannina,  and  not  at  Arta  or 
Prevesa,  like  hia  predecessors,  who,  besides, 
had  held  no  other  than  the  title  of  simple 
consuls. 

At  this  time  the  credit  of  All  increased  atili 
more  at  Constantinople,  through  the  open  pTo~ 
tection  he  eiijc^ed  from  the  French  govenunent. 
Of  this  he  availed  himself  withoat  loss  of  time, 
and  obtained  for  his  eldest  bmi,  Mouktar,  the 
Sandgiak  of  Lepanto ;  and  for  bis  younger  sod, 
Veii,  that  of  the  Morea.  This  unequal  distn- 
bution  was  founded  on  the  rank  they  held  in  his 
opinion  and  affection  with  re^rd  to  their  respec- 
tive characters. 

The  war  which  then  brc^e  out  between  Tur- 
k^  and  Rusoa  placed  Ali  Pacha  in  a  state  of 
(^n  bostUities  with  the  Seven  Islands.  This 
event  again  awakened  in  him  his  old  anxiety  to 
obtain  possession  of  them  islands,  or  at  le«tt  of 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CHAF.  Vn.]        TKB  UmSM  JMLUXD$.  tSl 

UioK  ^vUch  irere  within  his  readi }  «nd  night 
secure  to  him  die  meant  of  snl^eetii^  tiht  claat 
situated  ob  the  coast,  whom  hldicrto  he  had 
beeo  unable  to  reduce,  and  thus  affiance  fab 
svaj  cm  that  part  of  the  continent.  Hepreascd 
thd  French  consul-geDeral  in  fbe  most  nrgeat 
manner  to  induce  his  government  to  send  him 
officers,  cannoniers,  vessels,  and  more  e^ci' 
sHy  faeces  of  artillery,  as  irell  aa  military  stores, 
of  which  he  stood  in  need.  He  engaged  to 
push  the  war  vigonnisly  againaf  the  Ruiaimns 
who  were  in  the  JSeren  Islands,  and  to  prevent 
them,  by  that  meant,  not  only  from  troubling  the 
French  army  in  Dalulatia,  but  also  to  delisnd  or 
sncconr  Cattaro.  It  was  only  at  the  ccnimenoe* 
mentof  1807  that  he  was  enabled  to  obtain  what 
he  desired.  At  this  period  50  artillerymeo,  tet^- 
ral  officers,  cme  gun-boat,  one  corvette  and  orA^ 
nance  and  military  store*,  were  sent  to  himfixMn 
Itdly  and  the  kingdom  of  Naples.  He  availed 
himself  of  this  succour  to  his  oMrn  advantage. 
At  the  same  time  that  be  undertot^  by  land  the 
siege  of  St.  Maura,  of  iriuch  he  was  anxious  iff 
acquire  possession,  and  considered  the  conquest 
as  by  no  means  difficult,  he  caused  the  ibrtsand 
batteries  eaiatmg  in  the  interior  of  his  states  to 
be  repured  and  armed.  At  the  entnace  of  tiw 
road  of  Porto  Palermo  he  est^ished  a  fort, 
vhich  pecfectly  defends  it }  anddiddieaameat 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


252  THE  IONIAN   ISLANDS.        [cHAP..VII. 

Preveaa ; :  aad  in  the  city  of  Joannina  he  forti- 
fied the  second  citadel  of  Litaritza. 
.  Notwithstanding  bid  attention  was  divided,  in 
consequence  of  the  coodnct  of  the  iTziamides, 
Earamitbians,  and  Acarnanians, :  secret  allies  o£ 
the  lonians  and  .Russians,  the  siege  of  St^ 
Maiira  was  pushed  with  vigour.  -  Xhexxplosian 
of- a  powder  magazine  having,  dismantled  one 
of- the  forts,: a  landing. point,  was  thereby  left 
uncovered,  bat  the  construction  of.  a  sufficient 
number,  of  flat-botixmied  boats  was  pressed  with 
activity  ^  indeed  every  thing  was  ready,  for  the 
arrival  of  a  corf^  of  10,000  Albanians,  when 
the  peace  of  Tilsit  caused  hostilities :  to  cease. 
AJi  Facha  wished  them  still  to  continue,  but  tbe 
French  officers  formally  refused  to  consent^:  and 
derived  of  the  aid  of  their  artilleiymen,  he 
was  compelled  to  abandon  his  design.  He 
then  changed  his  line  of.  conduct,  and  hastened 
to  conclude  an: armistice  with  General  Stetter 
who  a>mraanded  at  St.  Maura. 

During  this  time,  however,  he  did  not  lose 
sight  of  his  political  negotiations.  Desirous:to 
derive  the  greatest  possible  advantage  from  the 
situation  in  which  he  stood  with  regard  to 
France,  he  conceived  it  necessaryto  have  an 
agent  near  the  Emperor  Napoleon,  .through 
whosemeanshe  might  correspond  without  the 
intervention  of  the  minister  of  foreign  a£^rsy 


bv  Google 


CHAP.  VII.]       THB  IONIAN   ISLANOff.  2.63 

which  appeared  to  him  too  long.  As .  soon  as 
'.he  heard  the  news  of  the  total  invasion  of 
Prussia  and  of  the  entry  of  the  French  armies 
into  Poland,  he  despatched  to  the  Imperial  head 
quarters  his  confidential  secretary  and  a  mem- 
ber of  his  divao,  whom  at  bis  own  court  he 
decorated  with  the  title  of  ambassador^  This 
minister,  whose  Turkish  name  is  Mdlach  M«- 
hemet  Efiendi>  was  an  Italian  and  a  new  con- 
vert  to  the  Mussulman  &itb.  Formerly  sent  to 
Malta  by  the  Inquiution  of  Rome,  in  this 
island  he  exercised  the  functions  of  Father  In- 
quisitor, at  the  time  the  French  took  possession 
of  it.  He  was  a  very  good  master  of  the  Oi- 
ental  languages,  and  being  of  an  intriguing 
character,  he  willingly  accepted  the  proposition 
of  the  General  in  Chief,  Buonaparte,  who  at- 
tached him  to  his  head  quarters  in  qaidity  of 
interpreter.  Some  time  after  the  batde  of 
Aboukir,  having  obtained  permission  to  return 
to  £urope,  he  embarked  at  Alexandria  with 
some  scavants  who  had  accompanied  the  ex- 
pedition, and  was  taken  at  sea  by  a  Dulcignot 
privateer,  called  Orucz,  who  made  a  present  of 
him  to  Ali  Pacha.  Soon  after  bis  arrival  at 
Joannina,  he  changed  his  rdigion ;  and  after 
remaining  some  years  in  a^state  of  Qbscuri^, 
obtained  the  good  graces  of  Ali,  who  made  him 
-his  secretary,  gave  him  a  place  in  his  divan,  and 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


m  cooiequencs  of  tiw  enftlosnaent  he  had  onee 
faeU  near  Napoleon,  he  prcferablj  msde  choke 
of  him  to  tend  him  on  the  above  miasioB  to  the 
mny.  In  confonnity  to  the  tnatructioas  of  his 
muter,  Mefaemct  Efibndi  used  ail  possible  csl- 
ertiom  with  the  Emperor  of  the  Fjneiich>  in 
:  order  to  obtain  a  prcnmie  that  when  peace  was 
earned  into  efiect,  at  leait  Parga.  and  St. 
Maura  ihould  be  dehverad  over  to  Ali  Padn. 
Tbeae  wriicitations  having  &iied  e£  succen, 
Hehcmet  intrigued  at  IHait  with  the  Freneii 
■  aad  Rutsian  plenipotentiaries,  in  ocder  to  haw 
:the  interests-af  ha  ma^er  taken  into  costaidaza- 
-tion  ;  but  the  integrity  of  the  lomwa  republic 
lieing  one  of  the  faaaea  of  ^e  a^fotistioas  le- 
stdved  Oft,  bis  ofc^eet  was  dfl&iited.  Oa  hm  m- 
tnrn  to  the  nrart  of  AH,  the  ill  4aOects  of  fajs 
misiian  brongfat  iqion  him  the  mDmeBtat^  tiia- 
pleware  of  his  eiopli^r. 

As  MOB  as  Ah  befadd  &e  iosiao  Uands 
occupaed  by  Fxeach  txoope,  having  Joat  oil 
hopes  of  a^nD&ziBg  faimself  in  tfa^  quarter, 
France  in  bii  eyes  no  longer  hdd  the  Taoiflc  of 
A  fitvQurite  power,  since  she  was  of  no  &rt3»r 
iiti^ty  ia  the  promotion  of  his  taterefti.  Shortfy 
the  same  hatred  and  jealousy  which  for  the  pre- 
rading  years  he  had  entertained  against  flmsia 
were  fraosftrred  to  her.  He  did  not,  however, 
■wnifttt  fail  ranktod  feettags  is  an  icrowed  and 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CBAP.TIl.]       THB   iOmjtS  HLAinW.  ^tt 

fiinnal  manner.  He  had  aJready  once  suo 
ceeded,  by  surprising  the  good  ikith  erf's  Frenelt 
general,  in  obtaining  posseasion  of  the  Greek 
towns  of  the  coast,  and  hereailer  he  hoped  to 
cbtoin  his  ot^ect  by  some  similar  artifieej  wad 
eventually  seize  upon  Sm^.  He  fleot  to  Corfu^ 
ihiniediately  after  the  arriTal  of  Generii  Cesar 
Berthier  there,  another  member  of  his  divan* 
Mehemet,  the  ^^leik-Islam  (or  chief  of  the  re* 
ligiou)  isf  Joannuia,  together  with  a  secretary 
<KiginaUy  faelon^ng  to  Corfu,  named  Fsalidi. 
Titeae  two  agents  were  chained  to  claim  the 
lown  and  territory  of  I^i^,  which,  according 
ttt  theat,  in  copformi^  to  the  treaty  cf  itSih 
Mardi,  1800,  oi^t  to  be  sun-endered  up  to 
All  Bicha.  Fortunatdy  their  object  had  been 
ahticipatedv  and  the  observatifHH  of  the  loniatt 
senate  as  well  as  of  several  persons  near  tite 
General,  and  particularly  the  profound  hatred 
the  Farga  deputation  manifested  against  Ali, 
produced  the  proper  impressions.  "  If  it  ac- 
cords with  the  interests  of  the  French  empire," 
said  these  deputies,  ^*  that  the  small  sur&ce  of 
land  on  which  our  country  is  situated,  should 
be  delivered  over  to  the  Turks,  let  at  least  a 
rock  be  granted  to  us  on  which  we  may  pre- 
serve our  liberty  and  independance,  far  from 
the  tyrant  who  has  butchered  our  neighbours 
and  bretJuen.*'    The  agents  of  Ali  Pacha  were 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


3S6  THE  IONIAN  I8LANOS.        [CHAP.  VII. 

consequently    dismi^d  without    having   ob- 
tained any  thing. 

After  this,  Ali  acted  without  any  fiirther  con- 
rideration  or  regard;  and  not  ouly  obstructed 
by  every  means  in  his  power  the  provisioning 
of  Corfu,  but  also  again  entered  into  com- 
municatioDS  with  England.  He  received  British 
vessek  at  Frevesa,  and  obtained  that  an  acre- 
dited  agent  should  be  sent  out  to  him.  His 
position  had  changed.  France,  in  possession  of 
the  Seven  Islands,  had  become  his  enemy,  be- 
cause she  was  a  powerful  obstacle  to  his  views 
and  ambitious  projects;  whilst  England,  in  a 
state  of  warfare  both  against  France  and  the 
Ionian  republic,  seemed  more  adapted  to  con- 
tribute to  his  future  security  and  acceseion  of 
power ;  and  this  alone  was  sufficient  to  fix  his 
choice. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Character  of AU  Pacha. — His  cruel  PaUey.'^tiii 
Qfiaiiiits  as  a  Headqf  Go<cermaent^-~-Hii  Ad* 
tmnittratieM.^^His  Affectation  mappcaring  ta 
pstromtetheGredu.—'HisDiioen.'— Ministers*. 
-T-Jktfriar  anfi  extcrmat  Police. — Palaces.-^ 
ReaenuB  and  Riches.ir7,-Ali&tary  EstablihmeHtt 
-<—PojMdation.~r-His  Political  Views  oa  tha 
Ionian  islands^ — Character  af  his  Chiidren- 

The  bans  c£  the  diaracter  of  AH  Puhsv  of 
«^ich  ft  geamid  idea  may  be  formed  from  the 
preceding  vacraiive  of  the  principal  eventi  oi 
iaa  life,  aa  well  as  from  the  line  of  couAuct 
whidi  has  sHccessivAly  raised  him  to  the  suoioiit 
of  power  OB  wiiiah  he  now  stands,  is  ^Isehood 
aad  ambition.  These  two  prc^nsities,  of 
which  the.  laat  is  a  devouring  paesion,  and  the 
first  ft  habit  and  a  want,  have  mutually  served 
sacfa  other  as  an  aliment  ajid  support.  In  him 
titey  have  called  fiwith  «id  nourished  all  the 
vieoB  wUch  ean  in^ire  horroF  into  those  vho 
may  become  his  victims,  or  fear  atnoog  hitt 
moat  confidential  satellites.  The  want  of  money, 
under  iriiioh  he  laboured  fiom  the  very  com- 


3,a,l,zt!dbvG0,0gIe 


358  THE  IONIAN   ISLANDS.      [CHAJ.  Vni. 

mencemeot  of  his  career,  and  was  so  long  an 
obstacle  to  his  elevation ;  the  certitude  which 
by  experience  he  acquired  that  with  this  power- 
ful stimulus  venal  souls  are  always  found  and 
Impelled  to  &vour  every  species  of  crime, 
caused  him  early  to  contract  the  habits  of 
avarice  and  rapacity.  It  is  impossible  to  carry 
these  two  vices  to  a  higher  pitch  than  they 
are  found  in  him.  To  give  is  a  word  foreign 
to  his  vocabulary,  and  a  feeling  estranged  &cHn 
liis  bosom.  He  only  seeks  to  purchase  when  he 
is  compelled  to  draw  gold  irom  hia  cofiers. 
Not  a  reward  is  bestowed  that  is  not  intended 
to  seduce  him  who  receives  it,  and  to  bring 
in  to  the  giver  a  fruit  doubly  equivalent  to  the 
amount  of  the  recompense.  Sometimes,  n^ 
even  frequently,  he  despoils  the  venal  agent 
who  has  served  him,  and  then  smiles  within  him- 
self at  the  idea  of  having  punished  a  traitor. 

His  rapacity  also  extiends  to  every  thing,  and 
resorts  to  all  kinds  of  pretexts.  A  merchant 
spears  in  his  dominions  with  e&cts,  of  which 
he  is  anxious  to  obtain  possession ;  he  calls  him 
to  his  presence,  and,  with  an  insulting  parade 
of  equity,  he  purchases,  but  at  the  prices  he, 
himself  has  aS&s£d.  A  rich  vassal  has  lately 
expired,  and  he  wishes  to  inherit  the  whole  or 
part  of  his  property ;  to  eflfect  this  all  means 
are  alike  good.    At  one  time  he  would  attack 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CHAP.  Till.]      THE  IONIAN  liSLANDS.  259 

the  children  of  the  deceased  and  wrest  from 
^em  their  property,  sword  in  hand ;  at  others, 
he  &igas  a  will  in  bis  own  iavour,  and  when  he 
comes  to  insist  on  its  conipliance,  with  insult- 
ing irony  he  frequently  enters  into  the  praises  of 
the  deceased.  **  My  friend,"  said  he  one  day 
to  a  young  Greek  of  Joannina,  whose  father  bad 
just  died,  "  your  father  was  a  most  respectabls 
man,  I  sincerely  regret  his  loss,  we  were  most 
intimate  friends.  On  his  death-bed  he  has, 
however,  remembered  me,  and  bequeathed  to 
me  his,  house,  furniture,  and  gardens." — "  But, 
my  Lord/'  observed  the  youth,  "  that  is  more 
than  three-fourths  of  my  whole  fortune." — 
•'  My  child,"  repUed  AH,  "  the  will  of  your 
£tther  ought  to  be  sacred  to  you,  and  if  you 
have  the  impiety  to  disregard  it,  I  will  cause 
you  to  be  hanged."  No  other  alternative  than 
obedience  was  lefr. 

His  insatiable  ambition  has  also  rendered  him 
jealous  and  vindictivej  and  these  two  other  vices 
have  acquired. in  his  soul  all  the  violence  of 
which  BO  ardent  a  character  as  bis  could  render 
them  susceptible.  Nothing  that  approaches 
him  is  exempt  from  the  suspicions  by  which  Iris 
'  restless  jealousy  is  unceasingly  agitated.  His 
nephews,  his  diildren,  even  the  persons  most 
devoted  to  bim,  those  who  are  generally  sup- 
posed to  enjoy  the  plenitude  of  his  confidence. 


j,=,i,z<,d.vGoogk' 


J60:  TTH!   MKtAN  tHAMEnS.      [CKAP.Vtn. 

An  to  him  tnore  or  less  ol^eeto  c^  fear  and  £s- 
tfust.  ITia  protestatiom  of  Aeir  fiJcSty  have 
no  credit  in  the  eyes  ^  a  maa,  who  caRis  good 
feptfi  a  weakness  in  menbind,  and  a  d^ct  among 
sovereigns.  Tfte  idelky  of  past  services  is  no 
secure  pladge  fer  tbefiitnrein  the  breastbone 
irho  ehsnges  his  conduct  and  connexions  as 
(tften  as  his  own  interests  requite.  Sren  tin 
ties  of  hlood,  in  his  mindi  ere  net  a  snfficient 
guarafttee ;  and  if  any  thing  can  pw  credit  to 
the  charge  alleged  against  him  of  being  t?»e 
assassin  of  his  brodier  and  mother,  undouhtedlj 
ft  is  the  apprehensions  under  which  h6  lives 
with  regard  to  his  own  children,  and  the  certi- 
tude with  which  he  advances  that,  aAier  his  death, 
the  youngest  (^  his  sons  will  become  the  victim 
of  the  anAition  of  the  two  eldest,  and  that  the 
latter  will  mutually  seek  te  destroy  each  other. 

He  knows  only  one  means  of  securing  the 
fidelity  of  those  he  employs ;  this  is,  to  obtain 
hostages  fiwn-them.  Even  his  own  cfaiMren  are 
twt  exempt  from  this  precautron.  When  they 
Separted  to  take  npon  thenirse^es  thwr  respect 
tive  governments,  he  retained  their  families  near 
htfnaelf,  and  did  not  even  «mcea3  fiwn  them 
the  motive  of  this  preventive  caution.  The 
only  one  of  his  relations  in  whom  he  appears  to 
have  cwnftdence  is  hrs  natural  brother,  Joussoiif 
Bey,  bora  of  a  bU<A  slave  in  bis  ftrther'i  Irarem. 


bv  Google 


CRAY.  Vau']       THE  JMIUH  ISIAHOB.  ^1 

Out  the  inilitoeM  of  hi>  character,  toUlly  de- 
void of  ac^uticm,  bis  aAcairatioa  and  absc^ute 
devotion  'to  MU  and,  above  all,  bis  quality  of 
natural  instead  of  l^tiipaAe  sen,  which  dtv^ 
bia  <af  all  preteasifiaa  and  deprive  him  of  9U 
peraoaal  credit,  havie  i^ifteared  to  AH  suffioient 
motives  not  ta  iear  hini.  Neverthelees,  he  holds 
bin)  in  an  sbeoUite  dqieotdwce^  keeps  him  lat  a 
diftfuwe  from  all  icivil  and  |K>liticid  .afiturs,  and 
cAploys  lufo  only  ttt  th«  head  of  his  tcoc^u, 
vh^eAma9U»g9  •a.nd  good  auue  render  him 
usefiil. 

The  vfiogaaneeiof  All  f ac^ais  implacAbkaitd 
knows  ffio  limits  eitfwr  to  WAoner  or  plftoe. 
The  only  uod^cotion  ^  wludi  it  »  siiset^- 
tiMe  its  thflt  it  is-more  cruel  fbc  longer  it  m 
delagred,  or  trfiette  his  Ai^er  is  more  viokwt. 
His  piwvter,  bis  credit,  his  address,  as  .wdU  m 
bis  !disiiinul«tiQn,  rander  its  «ftcts  ^caost  io- 
£dlible  and  inevitable.  Bk  iutced  iDcresafis  JwjAh 
delay,  and  his  memory,  idvays  ptfiseot  and  al- 
vays  fdthful,  never  suffers  him  to  foiget  «ny 
offence,  true  or  siipposed,  which  be  has  ,ta 
avonge,  vhaAevet  be  the  interval  thftt  Ufiaoates 
the  date  e£  the  act  fcofa  the  existing  mooaent. 
A  short  period  heforc  the  arrival  of  the  Atttfior 
at  Jowanina,  Ali  Eacba,  in  cauaiQg  ;a  body  ;of 
troops  to  defile  b^oK  imn  at  Booila,  netpog- 
nized  and  singled  out,  at » tli^anee  of  nwre  iJb»n 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


263  TBS  IONIAN  ISLANDS.      |^CHAP.  Till. 

900  paces,  an  Albanian  soldier  in  the  ranks, 
whom  he  pretended  had  ofiended  him  20  years 
before.  This  unfortunate  man  had  been  ar- 
rested at  the  time,  and  plunged  into  a  dungeon, 
but  by  some  lucky  occurrence  had  effected 
his  escape.  After  wandering-  about  in  sevend 
provinces  of  Greece,  he  at  length  enlisted 
among  the  troops  of  a  Bey  who  entered  into 
the  service  of  Ali  Pacha.  The  inexorable  Ali 
put  him  to  death.  Another  examine  of  the 
astonishing  memory  of  this  extraordinary  man 
took  place  in  presence  of  the  Author  at  Pre- 
vesa.  An  individual  belonging  to  Liapis  had 
been  arrested  and  brought  before  Ali,  who 
always  filled  the  office  of  judge  in  the  places 
were  he  happened  to  be  present.  The  Pacha 
himself  cited  all  the  traits  c^  brigandage  of 
which  this  man  had  been  guilty,  stating  the 
dates  and  the  names  of  the  persons  who  had 
been  victims,  and  did  not  condemn  him  till  afier 
the  culprit  had  avowed,  each  one  of  the  £icts. 
The  periods  which  Ali  recalled  in  his  interroga- 
tory embraced  a  space  of  is  years. 

His  dissimulation  is  impenetrable  to  one  who 
knows  him  not  by  his  actions,  or  who  does  not 
judge  him  in  conformity  to  the  only  basis  of  his 
interest  and  ambition.  It  is  not  only  blended 
in  his  words  and  protestations,  but  is  also  to  be 
found  in  his  demeanour  and  habits.    He  is  an 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.  VUI.]      THE   IONIAN   ISLANDS.  S6S 

extremely  handsome  man»  and  possessed  of  a 
physiognomy  which  he  knows  how  to  render  en- 
gaging when  he  conceives  it  necessary,  but 
which  is  nevertheless  habitually  soft  and  smil- 
ing. Extremely  attentive  in  his  behaviour^  his 
address  and  manners  are  elegant.  He  is  choice 
in  his  dress,  and  his  garments  are  even  sumptu- 
ous. He  aflfects  a  dazzling  luxury  in  the  orna- 
ments and  fomiture  of  his  palaces,  and  an  Asia- 
tic stress  in  his  habits.  He  is  continually  nc- 
ci^ted  about  buildings,  furniture,  and  decora 
tions ;  yet  all  this  la  only  afiectation ;  and  the 
occupation  which  he  thereby  gives  to  those  who 
surround  him  withdraws  them  from  a  serious  at- 
tention to  his  actions  and  designs. 

His  address  is  prepossessing,  and  even  en- 
dearing :  his  countenance  wears  the  impressioa 
of  frankness  and  honesty,  and  particularly  of  a 
profound  wheedler,  who  could  not  be  suspected 
if  his  features  had  not  something  of  a  studied 
sameness.  Indeed  in  his  countenance  the  ex- 
pression of  any  one  of  the  passions  which  agi- 
tate him  within  is  never  to  be  read ;  jealousy, 
fear,  hatred,  and  vengeance,  are  there  con- 
founded under  the  form  of  a  cloudless  satia&c- 
tion,  and  under  the  soft  expression  of  an  irre- 
■proachable  conscience.  Moderate,  and  even 
obliging  in  his  expressions;  dexterous  in  the 
manner  of  representing  objects  ^  clear  and  me- 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


tkiOdiitl  in  the  danificstioa  of  hia  ideast  g^nd 
by  nature  with  a  sure  logic  and  pemmsive  elA« 
qiKDce,  in  tthich  he  lEinnre  how  to  dlsputse  tiif 
sbpbifmn;  it  is  difficult  not  to  be  convmoM  or 
btttue  Rway  by  him  v/heo  be  enten  iato  a  coft- 
ver«aitioa  ftr  tbti  purpOM  of  fiirtberiitg  aorae  titin 
jcdt  or  view.  To  resist  hiia,  it  is  ntceAsaty  to 
b^  posiei^ed  of  a  perfect  knowledge  of  Ilia  cb** 
rtbterj  iidd  elways  to  bold  the  picture  btftre 
(ftie*«  eyes }  and  still  his  ditsitnulation  is  do  dii* 
guiaed  B^  profbUBd)  thst  oilealiiKMt  feels  a  re- 
ptidsdi  tot  beiDg  on  otre'sgaaid,  add  at^tng  widi 
a  M]itt«7  dj^truw. 

This  diiistntulati0&)  Un&nt]>  juid  BO -CdnrtaBtiy 
sustained,  and  which  has  been  of  spidh.great  ss- 
sliAaaoe  4n  ^  his  pcditical  operatioiu,  can  ne- 
verthelesB  be  upheld  oiUy  witb  the  greBbak 
pr^atftion,  and  by  an  unceasing  attcntiom  lo 
hide  the  spring  he  employi  in  otder  to'anive  at 
the  accom^'sbment  of  hi*  clesighs.  Tbma  pr^ 
eautiohs,  whidi  he  has  never  laid  aside,  ^mHEh 
however  a  fresh  proof  of  tire  egotism  and  eru- 
elty  of  his  diaracter.  When  he  has  iTeen  vaidite 
to  succeed  by  his  ordioaiy  means,  trfaidi  are  to 
excite  dt^ennom,  to  render  ducords  imfJacable^ 
to  cause  crinfts  to  be  committed  by  those  vevy 
persons  he  has  singled  out  Har  his  victinBit  in  a 
tnirdy  to  exciie  all  the  paffinons  wiiioh  oan  give 
rJK  to  diaorden,  in  order  to  avwl  himself  «f 


_    ,l,z<,i:,,G00glf 


CHMP.mi.]      TSB  WmJtS  iUAMDIt  S6j( 

tbtm  eithat*  as  mediator  of  avedger,  he  tWa 
reaolves  li^  proceed  towards  his  object  by  the 
most  direct  road.  The  vifrienoe  of  bis  passion^ 
and  his  kfipatience  to  tajoy,  do  not  allow  him 
to  watt  when  he  believea  he  is  possessed  of  the 
naaaja  of  striking  his  blow.  It  is  in  his  cba- 
mdter  never  to  flelay  to  the  nent  day  what  at 
tdie  present  moment  he  thinks  be  can  lefiGect,  us* 
ku  insarnn^DiitaUe  obstacles  compel  b&ai  to  d>»t 
fiayiaa  maeh  {tatience  as  be  naturally  evisce* 
impetDOsity;  Wltea*  therefore,  he  ts  uttd»  the 
meoenity  oT  empli^ing  sti  agent  S»r  one  of  thttse 
^eraUoas  which  be  nei^er  <Aa  nor  wishes  to 
avow,  the  c^re  of  exiterturly  ke^ng  up-a|)pear. 
aaces  dictatei  to  him  tfae  barbarous  ppetautioft 
of  oAerwardfl  ridding  himself  of  hit  io^trttmeoU 
HiBs  does  a  Uoady  and  inpeftetraUe  veil  cover 
to  tbe  eyes  of  the  geaetsHiy  of  his  sultjects  ika 
plots  and  crim>es  of  their  ssaater. 

At  liie  side  i^  dMse  capital  vices  fa  tbe  cha- 
racter of  iUi  Pacha  are  found  some  <^  tbe  quaf 
Nties  which  coastituie  great  aovCreigns.  A  pr^ 
jbosid  koowledge  of  the  huimui  heart,  wbicii 
maike*  his  choice  good  i^  those  who  are  to  be 
omploj^d  near  him,  eaables  him  corroctiy  to 
Accypher  their  respective  taJents,  and  to  assiga 
to  them  tbe  offices  nott  «uiCed  to  their  abilitiea. 
In  afi&irs  he  possesses  a  perspicacit;y  which  ex- 
bibits  to  him  tbeir  ieniency  «v«i  at  Bnt  ^ght. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


266  TUB  IONIAN  ISLANDS.      [cHAP.  nit. 

and  prevents  him  from  being  decdv«d  in  the 
means  he  ought  to  employ  to  cause  them  to  re- 
dound to  his  advantage.  He  knows  how  to  wait 
for  or  produce  opportuniUes  fiivourable  to  his 
political  views,  and  he  improves  them  with  asto- 
nishing mpidity.  He  is  courageous,  and  his  va- 
lour, by  which  be  distinguished  himself  in  the 
first  years  of  his  political  career,  is  &r  from  being 
extinguished.  He  possesses  that  calm  courage 
which  know%  how  to  measure  danger,  and  dis- 
cover the  means  of  escaping  or  resisting  it  in  a' 
deliberate  manner.  This  courage  has  served 
to  sustain  himself  with  so  much  tranquillity,  as 
well  as  to  ward  offthe  dangers  by  which  another 
would  have  been  overcome.  In  order  to  be  se- 
cure in  the  midst  of  his  subjects,  aU  of  whom 
fear,  and  nearly  all  hate  him,  he  takes  no  visible 
precautions  of  defence ;  since  by  a  feigned  se- 
curity he  has  made  to  himself  one  that  is  real. 
He  generally  goes  out  accompanied  by  only  one 
or  two  pages,  one  of  bis  confidants,  and  a  couple 
of  soldiers ;  and  such  is  the  dread  inspired  by 
his  personal  courage,  and  the  persuasion  that  a 
conspiracy  could  never  succeed,  that  very  few 
attempts  have  been  made  against  his  li&.  A 
fortunate  chance  has  uniformly  saved  him,  and 
even  this  same  chance  has  contributed  to  his 
future  security. 
The  government  of  Ali  Pacha  may  be  oonsi- 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


CHAi;.  VIII.]       THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  S67 

dered  under  tvo  aspects,  viz.  under  that  of  the 
(^pressioD  he  has  exercised,  as  well  as  the  cru- 
elties he  has  committed  against  all  persons  pow- 
erfbl  through  their  strength,  riches,  or  influ- 
ence, whether  it  was  to  augment  his  fortune  or 
to  rid  himself  of  dangerous  rivals ;  and  hence 
may  it  justly  be  called  both  cruel  and  tyrannical. 
\Vi^  regard  to  the  security  the  people  enjoy, 
the  religious  toleration  accorded  to  the  Greeks 
much  more  in  his  dominions  than  in  the  rest  of 
the  Ottoman  empire,  and  the  privileges  he 
grants  to  these  same  Greeks  by  employing 
them  indistinctly  near  his  person,  «r  in  subaltern 
commands,  his  government  is  moderate  and 
equitable.  This  apparent  contradiction  is  not, 
however,  such  in  point  of  £ict }  it  is  the  imme- 
diate consequence  of  the  situation  in  which  he 
is  placed,  and  of  the  system  which  his  political 
views  have  caused  him  to  adopt.  The  provinces 
which  now  constitute  his  dominions  have  never 
formed  a  whole,  uniform  and  concentrated  round 
the  authority  of  one.  His  project  is  to  bring 
them  to  this  form  ;  but  since  he  considers  him- 
self as  the  true  centre  of  action,  and  his  will  as 
the  only  guide  by  which  his  subjects  ought  to 
act,  he  has  been  under  the  necessity  of  remov- 
ing every  thing  that  could  be  detrimental  to  this 
union;  and,  by  opposing  resistance  to  every 
thing  that  could  clash  with  his  main  object,  he 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


S68  THE  lOKIAK   ULANOB.      [cHAf .  VZII. 

has  sought  to  create  a  coBoeotuig  hak  betweva 
a  variety  <^  parti.  Such,  at  least,  is  the  s<^ 
tion  be  himself  givea  to  bis  paat  aa  well  as  pre- 
sent copduct ;  that,  however,  which  might  ex- 
^aio  in  a  latiafaotwy  manner  the  ineqiialitiea 
and  extravagaoces  of  his  admiqistrative  ge- 
Teroment  can  only  be  found  in  h'v  ovn  dur 
racter. 

A  itspot  through  the  mtiufal  coMeqtmices 
of  his  bounSeM  ambitioii,  he  has  no  Mher  rule 
for  bis  governioent  then  hia  present  wM,  and 
this  is  guided  hy  the  intereat  «f  tike  moment. 
The  weak  int^ire  him  with  neither  fears  nor  jea* 
louey ;  and  it  is  by  tentpofuiflg  with  then,  ^Bd 
even  by  proteoUng  them,  that  he  seeks  to  Ac- 
quire the  reputation  of  justice  and  equity.  The 
rich  and  powerful  i^pesr  to  bits  as  oik^ecto  of 
danger,  and  in  eKereisiog  towacds  t^em  a  des- 
potic justice  he  at  the  same  time  sattafies  his  am* 
bition  and  his  rapacity.  The  following  anetv 
dotes  will  convey  an  idea  of  the  tnanaer  in  -yAach 
he  administers  justice:— <The  chief  of  tfae^ia^ 
town  <^  Metaovo  was  an  unjust  aid  eai^er  man* 
who  availed  himself  of  every  opportunity  that  oc* 
icurred  in  order  to  commil  vexations,  and  enridi 
.hiruuelf  out  of  tbm. produce.  ForaconeideraUe 
time  past  the  inhabitants  of  this  towm  had  pre- 
aeated,  or  caused  to  be  presented,  to  Ali  Pac^ 
pctioas  against  thetr  chief  without  iiawng  been 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.TI1I.2      THE  lOnAN  UILAHIIS.  269 

able  to  obtain  his  removal.  In  one  of  the  dr- 
euits  which  AH  from  tirae  to  time  perfbrms  in 
his  dominibiis  he  at  length  passed  through  Met-> 
nmx  Hie  iahabitaiits  in  crowds  vent  out  to 
neet  him,  and  prostrated  themselves  at  his  feet, 
erjiag  oat  amnum,  or  mercy.  He  caused  the 
sut^ect  of  tlrcir  {wayer  to  be  explained  to  him  ; 
nd  when  he  was  told  thej  demanded  that  their 
ehief  should  be  punished  with  death,  he  a*. 
sembled  the  priests,  ami  exhorted  them  to  eo- 
gi^  the  inh^itaats  not  to  suffer  the  blood  «f 
one  of  their  fellow-creatures  to  &S  upon  them. 
Seeii^,  however,  that  the  people  iosi^ed,  h< 
ordaitied  tiie  execution  of  the  delinquent,  telUog 
the  iriiabttmts  **  that  on  them  was  his  blood  to 
Ml  ■,"  aad  in  order  to  coiRi^ete  this  hypocritical 
&rce,  be  said  to  those  who  sarrouBded  him, 
that  he  was  happy  in  not  being  the  autltor  of 
file  death  of  an  individual,  siace  be  bad  been 
con^lled  to  yield  to  the  wishes  of  the  peo^e. 
Re  boivever  todc  care  to  confiscate  the  pro- 
perty of  t*w  deceased  ta  his  own  personal  ad- 
vantage. 

Some  years  afterwarii  having  learnt  that  tha 
chie^  of  <me  of  the  cantons  of  Zagoria,  under 
Ihe  pretext  of  levying  by  his  orders  an  extraar- 
dinwy  cotMributkn  of  l«>,000  piastres,  had  ex- 
toited  considerable  sums  from  variois  indivi- 
daals,  ht  catised  them  lo  be  brought  t«  his  ^• 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


S?0  THE  IONIAN   ISLANDS.      [CHAF.  TIIll 

sence,  and  condemned  them'  to  restore  the 
money  they  had  taken ;  compcUing  them,  how- 
ever, to  lodge  the  150,000  piastres  in  his  own 
treasury,  thanking  them  in  an  ironical  manner 
for  the  care  they  had  taken  to  furnish  him  with 
money.  They  remained  in  prison  till  the  entire 
sum  had  been  paid';  and  they  were  still  there 
when  the  Author  arrired  at  Joannina.  Pretexts 
of  justice  also  induced  him  to  rid  himself  of  his 
nephew,  the  same  Mahmoud  respecting  whom 
he  had  entered  into  corre^>ondence  with  Prince 
Potemkin.  Being  informed  that,  after  the  ex- 
ample of  his  uncle,  he  had  placed  himself  at'  the 
head  of  a  band  of  Klephtes,  and  that  his  party 
had  been  increased  by  several  lucky  expeditions, 
he  had  the  address  to  draw  him  into  his  palace 
at  Litaritza,. alone  and  without  arms,  where  he 
himself  killed  him  with  a  pistotball. 

His  affectation  to  protect  the  Greeks  has  the 
same  foundation  j  and  this  protection  is,  in  iacf, 
only  apparent.  It  is  to  his  interest  to  temporize 
with  them ;  he  stands  in  need  of  their  talents  in 
order  to  exercise  several  branches  of  the  admi- 
nistration he  cannot  cocifide  to  Albanians  too 
ignorant,  and  which  he  does  not  wish  to  place 
in  the  hands  of  the  Turks,  whom  he  mistrusts 
and  hates.  Hence  does  he  employ  and  grant  to 
them  exterior  marks  of  his  confidence.  It  is  to 
his  interest  to  uphold  them  to  a  certain  degree. 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


CHAP.  TIXF.3      TXm   lOKUN  ISLANDS.  S71 

in  order  to  be  able,  in  the  provinces  which  are 
Albanian,  to  oppose  them  to  the  Osmanlis  when 
he  thinks  the  time  is  come  to  separate  himself 
entirely  from  the  Ottoman  empire.  Neverthe- 
less he  iears  them,  because  he  knows  that  at 
bottom  they  hate  him.  He  ia  not  ignorant  that 
the  Greeks  would  not  lend  themselves  to  the 
execution  of  his  plans  unless  to  avail  themselves 
of  his  aid  and  thus  paralise  the  e^rts  of  the 
Forte ;  and  that  whilst  they  at  this  moment 
flatter  him  with  the  title  of  King  of  Greece, 
their  intention  would  not  be  to  suffer  him  to 
enjoy  it  as  soon  as  they  had  re-conquered  their 
own  liberty.  On  his  part  he  only  seeks  to  make 
use  of  them  as  instruments  to  attain  hia  own 
ends^  and  by  no  means  has  in  view  to  raise  these 
people  to  command  over  his  Albanians.  Never- 
theless,  always  constant  in  the  practice  of  dis- 
simulation, he  is  surrounded  by  Greeks,  afl^cts 
to  speak  their  language  equally  well  with  the  Al- 
banian, and  even  not  to  know  the  Turkish  lan- 
guage well.  He  enters  into  the  details  of  their 
instruction,  and  sometimes  causes  the  children 
of  his  Greek  domestics  to  repeat  their  catechism 
before  him,  and  has  granted  them  the  founda- 
tion of  an  university  at  Joannina.  He  draws 
up  the  greatest  part  of  his  public  acts  in  Greek, 
as  well  as  of  his  own  private  correspondence, 
and.has  no  hesitation  to  make  use  of  the  date  of 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


t7S  tm  loMiAir  HtiMDi.     [caup.vac 

fbsQlristiftB  erft.  The  Audior  Irioudf  is  poft* 
iMMd  of  several  Mitogr^>lijf»t  Icttera  of  AB 
FkdM  written  in  this  mauier. 

However  be  t^es  the  greatest  care  to  prt- 
VCDt  the  Greeks  from  becoming-  too  powerfi^: 
W  keeps  ftom  diem  the  most  iaportaat  posts, 
and  parHcularly  the  militMy  commands.  He  is 
also  extr«m^  carefiil  to  keep  them  at  a  dib 
tance  from  his  children,  and  to  prevmit  them 
from  gainhig  any  ascendaoey  ov«r  (heir  minds. 
His  son  Veli  causes  htn  no  inijuietude  on  this 
seore  i  bat  Mouktar,  of  a  character  entirely  dif* 
ferent  ftom  his  brother,  appears  to  incline  towarcb 
Ifee  Graekfl.  llie  unfortunate  Eiipbrosina,  the 
most  interesting  female  of  Joahaina,  as  well  'fin 
her  beauty  a6  the  qu^ities  c^  her  mind,  beoame 
a  victim  to  this  jealousy.  Mouktar  was  in  lom 
with  her,  and  was  every  dv|r  at  her  honse,  wkne 
the  roost  disHnguished  Greeks  assen^led  tngfr 
dicr  with  their  wives.  Aii  feared  that  the  poor 
vcrsatioos  and  princi^es  of  the  Geeeks,  comiag 
ftom  the  mouth  of  so  accomplished  a  fensAc^ 
whom  he  tenderly  loved,  might  midte  too  strcMg 
Ml  impi«S8ioD  on  the  mind  of  his  son.  In  an 
underhand  manner  he  excited  the  wives  m£ 
Mouktar,  and  particularly  the  one  who  was  the 
daughter  of  the  Vizir  of  Berat,  to  complain, 
*n4«ven  to  demand  a  divorce.  Ibrahim.  FadM 
tesfc  part  ia  the  ai^r,  and  apbeld  the  <oiBr 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CHAF.VmO      THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS,  273 

plaJBts  o£  bis  daughter.  AH  tbett  turned  the 
matter  into  an  afiair  of  state  j  and  his  divan 
having  been  assembled,  it  was  therein  deciited 
tbat  Eupbfosina  and  tbe  other  females  of  her 
aoctety,  to  the  number  of  fifteen,  dedared 
gailty  of  having  seduced  Mouktar, land  there* 
by  exposed  Ali  to  the  danger  of  suatuning  a 
war  against  his  neighbour,  should  be  drowned. 
They  were  arrested  in  the  night  i  when  AIS 
f  acha,  not  having  been  able  to  find  one  of  his 
satellites  sufficiently  bold  to  expose  himself  tA 
tiie  anger  of  Mouktar,  himself  proceeded  to  the 
iiouse  of  Euphrosina,  wd  delivered  her  over  to 
her  executioners.  Afterwards,  in  order  to  de^ 
.tach  Mouktar  entirely  from  tbe  Greeks,  Ali  took 
care  to  circulate,  in  a  forced  manner,  that  if  tbe 
principal  peraons  of  the  city,  and  particularly  the 
^Bishop  of  Trikala,  uncle  to  Eupbrosina*  had  so- 
Jicited  her  pardon  of  him  he  would  ha Ve  granted 
it ;  but  that  religious  hatred  had  prevented 
.them  from  saving  the  mistress  of  a  Mussulman, 
l^e  Author  vould  not  have  quoted  this  trait 
unless  for  the  purpose  of  showing  what  b^seuid 
.cruel  means  Ali  Pacha  .avails  himself  of  for  the 
jUlainment  of  his  ehds. 

-  All  Pacha  has  a  diva^  composed  of  the  pji)>- 
cipal  officers  of  his  house,  and  of  persons  whom 
he  chooses  among  those  he  believes  the  most 
,]tke)y  to  be  useful  to  him*    This,  council  is* 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


S74  THE   niKU»  laUHDff.      t^^'B'^^*!^ 

howvatf  tmiy  org^ized  ibr  the  sake  of  &nii, 
and  not  onb  of  its  members  dares  to  expreaft  aa 
opimon  contrafy  to  his.  He  therein  proposei 
lubjeots  foe  deliberation,  discusses  iheaiy  n^ 
ceives  the  approbation  of  the  persons  asnstr^. 
mad  tlien  decides.  Hie  is  himself  bis  own  ndi' 
Ulster  in  all  the  branches  of  administration,  and 
his  secretaries  write  down  the  orders  dtctated 
by  him,  which  he  addresses  to  his  various  sub- 
ordinate officers^  His  prodigious  memory  ^ta- 
bles him  to  enter  into  the  most  minute  detul«  ; 
and  thou^,  according  to  the  custom  of  the 
Turks,  be  keeps  records  of  noUiing,  na&ing 
nevertheless  escapes  him ;  and  oO  measUK 
da^es  with  ^e  orders  previously  given,  unlmft 
through  the  effect  of  a  change  of  system  intro- 
duced by  him  in  his  administration,  which  veiy 
farely  h^pens.  His  ind^tigable  activity  makes 
him  find  time  fot  every  thing,  and  no  afiair  what- 
ever experiences  the  smallest  dehiy*  He  te- 
qnirea  this  same  activi^  &ota  every  one  who 
surroands  and  serves  him,  and  in  tlifs  particular 
he  s  even  so  extremely  strict,  that  he  carries 
through  tlsngs  which  scorody  appear  credible. 
His  constant  custom  is  to  ordain  what  is  lApos- 
i^ble,  iti  order  to  obtain  all  that  hunum  nature 
is  capable  ot  pedbrming.  As  it  ia  well  known 
that  he  never  pardons  a  non-complknce  with  his 
ocdns,  and  that  he  never  admits  of  an  exouse^ 


3,a,l,zt!dbvGbOgIe 


drisad  adAtt  his  mxvaot»  perform  niniclesv  His 
wdifuny  Toaaaitt  vbed  he  iasiiet  these  sup^ras* 
tocal- oidsnt  iflj  f*  Itlt  my  order  be  eXeeuted*  Of 
anjfithe  blade  stttpeatdtvourthmeeyes."  Ati 
oath)  a£:the  Stnlteo,  by  the^beard  of  Mabiomett 
would  not  piioduee-  the  dread  in^rdd  by  this 
Uvrible  saying*  '■■  It  has^  alwijrs  been  the  pre^ 
buraor  of  a  de&th^wanent.    ' 

In  his  ^dombiioas  he  has-  oi^dieed  a  poUoe 
unkiwirn  in  the  rest  of  Turkey^  arid  to  thii  he 
has  directed  the'  whole 'of  fais  attention j.foeCBuse 
it  is  the  most  poiwer&l  means  of  preventii^  all 
BttemptB  accost  hiiii9el£  This  police  ar  not 
aaify  streidy  and  watdiiully  bMied  aAxont  the 
putdic  nde^,  £ett  Ali  l^cha  does  not  even  spare 
tka  Kle^tes,  his  adoient  companions  j  l^tit 
enters  into  die  interior  of  hoOBesv  suprainteods 
the  eondnct  of  the  inhabitants,  and  its  officers 
neadet  in  to  Alisn  exact  account  of  the  action^ 
GonversotioiB^  and  fircgeets  of  aU ;  in  a  word, 
06  e?iay  tinig  that  icm  interest  or  convey 
ioAmnatuHi  to  hini»  ^is  pa^HQ  follows  iip 
the  Ch-eehs  io  ill  thear  rehrtions  at  Constanti- 
nople, and  discovers  eyec^  step  tbcf  die  takm;) 
aa  that  Ali'  Faicba,  inftrtaed  of  ev^iiy'thihg  ihey 
fieek'-to'^eety  has  Sufficieiit  tinie  to  fhiatrstt 
thbk  views.  AU  thb  letters  which  leaVe  his  do^ 
nihions  are  read  iyy:  hioi  or  his  agpivts  befere 
ttoey  are  delivered  tothe  courier  who  xrto  convey 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


376  TttE  stntiAv  nrLANBft.     [csAp.vm. 

them  away*  He  pays  no  more  regard  to  the 
dispatches  of  the  official  agents  rending  near 
him,  and  he  opens  them  all,  uadraa  hope  of 
finding  out  one  which  is  not  written  in  cypher. 
He  does  not  respect  foreign  oNiriers,  nor  even 
those  of  his  sovereign ;  and  on  the  6rst  <»mplaint 
he  throws  off  the  blame  from  his  own  shoulders 
by  causing  some  poor  wretch  to  be  hanged 
whom  be  had  taken  out  of  his  prisons,  or  car- 
ried away  from  the  country  for  some  grudge  or 
another.  In  lfi07  he  caused  three  couriers  to 
be  assassinated,  of  whom  two  were  French,  and 
he  was  extremely  displeased  in  having  only  found 
letters  in  cypher  upon  them. .  His  agents  scat- 
tered in  different  parts,  and  the  correspwidence 
of  the  Crreeks  who  are  iii  his  service,  make  him 
acquainted  with  the  princijud  events  passing  in 
Europe,  as  well  as  the  situation  of  the  great 
powers.  His  own  notions,  and  his  information 
thus  obtained,  serve  him.as  a  thermometer  £» 
iiis  pditical  conduct,  and  nuike  turn  decide  oa 
what  connections  he  is  to  form:  with  foreign 
states,  for  he  is  always  anxious  to  have  a  pc»nt 
o€  support  out  of  Turkey.^ 

Ali  PactiB-has  a  greatjiiumber  of  palaces  and 
canntry  seats.  Some  of  them  an:  the  inherit- 
ance  of  Ma'  second  wife,  the  rich  widow  of  a 
£acha,  whnm  he  espoused  in  drder  torcnjoy  her 
fortune^attd  afterwards  confined  toi  his  hareo^  ' 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CaAP.TI».]      THE  lOlOAN  ULANDS.  277 

\rhere  she  died  in  obscurity.  The  others  are 
the  spoUs  ^persons  whom  he  has  caused  to 
perish,  oc  compelled  to  £y,  and  some  have  been 
built  by  himself.  He  is  his  own  architect,  up- 
holsterer, and  decorator ;  hence  are  bis  palaces 
the  most  brilliant  assemblage  of  magniiicence 
and  bad  taste.  One  traverses  obscure  hovels  in 
prder  to  arrive  at  magnificent  saloons,  in  which 
velvet,  g!ol^,  and  embroidery  are  displayed  in 
profusion,  even  on  the  floor.  Gobelins  tapestry, 
bung  OD  a  rod,  sometimes  serves  in  the  place  of 
doors ;  and  pieces  of  embroidery  in  gold,  half 
a  yard  wide,  to  which  rich  fringes  are  attached^ 
^  aq}plied  tp  cloths  not  worth  six  francs  per 
yard.  In  eadi  of  these  palaces,  at  the  side  of 
the  richly  ornamented  saloon  in  which  he  gives 
fUldience,  is  a  confused  range  of  chambers  and 
roomSj  which  serve  for  various  purposes.  Some 
of  them  are  store-houses,  in  which  he  shuts  up 
the  furniture,  effects,  and  utensils  proceeding 
out  of  confiscations,  pillage,  and  the  exactions 
he  had  ordained.  In  1807,  when  it  was  neces* 
sary  to  have  cannons  founded,  6000  weight  of 
brass  which  was  wanting  was  furnished  in  kitcheii 
utensils  out  of  these  store-houses.  It  is  he  him- 
self also,  alone,  who  undertakes  to  keep  an  ac- 
count  of  these  articles,  and  holds  the  keys. 
When  he  wishes  to  furnish  a  house  for  any  fo- 
reigner ythtm  be  treats  ^vourably,  or  has  taken 


3,a,l,zt!dbvGQOglc 


37S  THE  tOMlAH  laiASDS.      [cRAP^  TIH. 

into  his  service,  he  hlhiself  goes  thfere  to  look 
out  the  linen,  pans,  and  kettles  which  he  desires 
should  be  given  to  him :  so  much  niinutcness  is 
certMnly  the  eftct  of  his  extreme  avarice.  Not- 
withstanding he  is  almost  exclusively  g^ven  up 
to  Socratic  pleasures,  and  ibr  this  purpose  keeps 
up  a  seraglio  of  youths,  from  among  whom  he 
selects  his  confidants,  and  even  his  principal 
officers,  he  has  5  or  <S0()  women  scattered  about 
in  various  harems,  the  principal  of  which  are  at 
Joannina,  Tepeleni,  and  Kerkalopoulo. 

His  revenues  are  very  considerable,  but  it  ii 
impossible  to  estimate  them  with  any  degree  of 
exactitude,  because  he  fbllows  uo  flxedmle  in 
the  repartition  and  collection  of  his  imposts. 
All  the  provincial  governors  whom  we  have  al- 
ready enumerated,  and  are  absolutely  dependent 
on  his  will,  levy  imposts  in  the  manner  he  or- 
dains i  and  of  these  he  himself  renders  in  the 
account  to  the  Porte,  pays  to  the  Turkish  go- 
vernment with  exactitude  what  he  owes  it,  and 
deposits  the  remainder  in  his  own  boti^,  which 
irequently  is  one  half  of  the  sum  total  collected, 
and  sometimes  more.  He  mordover  possesses 
the  income  of  his  own  private  domains,  as  w^ 
as  of  his  numerous  flocks,  whidi'  amount  tO 
about  50,000  sheep.  To  these  two  branches  <^ 
revenue  it  is  necessary  to  add  the  produce  of 
confiscations;  exactions,  arbitrary  droits,  fbies. 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


OUP.VOl.]      Xm   IONIAN   ISLAKBO.  Q79 

aad  cornmutadoiu  of  penalties,  vhidi  being 
finuided  9olj  on  his  own  caprice,  present  no 
certain  bans  of  valuation.  On  an  average  his 
revenue  is  estimated  at  ISfiOOjOOO  irqncs ;  twit 
besides  this  revenue,  whidi  is  destined  to  meet 
the  expenses  (^  his  administratioa  and  military 
^tablishment,'in  which  he  acts  with  the  greatest 
eomomj,  he  has  great  treasures  hiddtti  either 
at  Tepeleni  or  in  his  castles  at  Joannina,  of 
which  it  would  be  impossible  to  produce  an  es- 
timate. All  that  is  known  on  this  Bu}^et:t  is, 
tiut  the  sums  which  he  thus  holds  in  reserve  ace 
in  Venetian  gold. 

He  has  likewise  s^ropriated  to  himaetf  aU 
the  precious  stones  aqd  pearls  of  which  he  has 
obtained  knowledge  in  the  countries  over  which 
he  has  lorded,  and  has  beades  purchased  a 
large  quuitity.  He  has  also  a  numerous  collec- 
tion of  watches  and  clocks  of  gceat  value  and 
of  every  &xm,  as  well  as  of  g<dd  and  silver 
vases,  and  immense  store-houaes  of  goods.  AU 
that  is  valuaUe  is  under  his  own{>enonal  care^ 
as  well  9a  bis  treasures  abut  iqi  in  siditen-aneous 
vaults*  where  no  one  enters  but  himself.  For 
the  cnrrent  expenses  of  the  state  he  has  a  trea- 
surer, vh«  ip  I8Q7  was  one  of  his  own  nephews, 
and  vm  to  hi^  sister,  to  whom  he  had  given  tha 
dbtriot  of  X^ebOvo.  But  this  titasurer  is,  in 
fact,  no  ^Uier  than  a  paymaster,  vrbo  each  time 


bv  Google 


860  THX  lOMUH  ULAHnS.       [CHAP.Vm, 

that  a  coSbt  is  empty  makes  up  his  accounts  to 
Ali  before  he  receives  the  keys  of  another.  For 
his  own  bouse  he  had  a  Jewish  intendant,  who . 
■was  charged  to  collect  the  revenue  of  his  private 
domains,  and  render  to  him  the  accounts. 
Ali  Facha  himself  keeps  his  own  general  ac- 
counts fi-om  memory,  and  without  any  book, 
nor  ia  he  scarcely  renfembered  to  have  com- 
mitted any  mistakes  in  the  order  for  expenditure 
which  he  had  given ;  but  if  such  a  thing  did  se 
happen,  it  was  never  to  bis  own  disadvantage. 
This  manner  of  keeping  accounts  still  opened 
to  him  another  branch  of  revenue,  which  he 
does  not  neglect,  and  this  is  that  of  the  taxes  he 
calls  by' the  name  of  restitutions,  which  be  im- 
poses  on  those  who  have,  or  have  had,  the  ma* 
nagement  of  money  for  his  account;  andof  this 
bis  Jewish  intendant,  among  others,  &lt  the  e& 
ifects.  One  day  when  his  son  Mouktar  Pacha 
stood  in  need  of  100  bags,  (100,000  francs,)  as 
an  advance  on  the  entry  of  his  own  revenue,  he 
demanded  the  sum  from  bis  &ther*s  intendant. 
Mouktar,  a  perfectly  honest  man,  had  always 
paid  his  debts  with  exactitude,  and  no  one  at 
Joannina  would  have  refused  to  lend  money  to 
him.  Nevertheless  the  Jew,  either  too  avari' 
cious  or  wrongfiiUy  distrustful,  alleged  as  a  pre- 
text that  he  had  no  money,  and  refused  to  make 
the  advance  required.      Mouktar  comidained 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.TmO      'THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  S81 

of  this  to  his  fitther,  who  called  the  intendant 
to  his  presence,  and  sfter  reproachieg  him  for 
sudi  a  want  of  confidence  towards  his  son,  said 
to  him, — *'  Listen,  it  is  now  twenty  years  th^ 
thou  hast  served  me,  and  according  to  the  cal> 
cuIatioD  of  my  revenue,  thou  must  have  stolea 
from  me  at  the  rate  of  five  bags  per  year  ^  thoa 
shalt  therefore  instantly  pay  me  100  bags  j"  and 
to  this  be  added  hisordinary  saying,  which  never 
lailed  to  impose  ready  obedience. 

The  military  forces  of  Ali  Pacha  consist  of 
severs]  difierent  elements,  which  prevents  them 
from  forming  an  uniform  whole,  and  receiving  a 
regular  organization  and  discipline.  The  first, 
and  those  on  which  he  places  the  greatest  re- 
liance, are  levied  by  a  species  of  conscription 
in  his  own  particular  domains,  and  amount  to 
about  6,000  men.  His  vassals  and  the  gover- 
nors of  the  provinces  dependant  on  him,  are 
next  oUiged  to  furnish  bira  on  his  first  requisi- 
tion with  the  number  of  soldiers  he  himself 
fisea,  according  to  his  wants ;  and  the  pay  of  the 
soldiers  sent  to  him  by  his  direct  vassals  is  at 
bis  own  charge,  but  he  takes  care  that  the  others 
are  paid  by  the  provinces  whence  they  come. 
The  corporations  and  districts  of  the  Sandgiaks 
-whose  government  he  personally  administers, 
are  also  obliged  in  time  of  war,  or  when  he  re- 
quires it,  to  supply  him  with  troops.    These  are 


^lailizodbvGoOglC 


389  JHB  lOHI^  1»,AHIMI.     {[qHAfrVni. 

the  B^ciH^s  df  m^n  he  re^rda  the  leostybecauw 
B»ny  oi  th«Be  districts  are  ijot  well  indiaed  to 
irfti^s  htm,  wd  their  soldien  serve  him  with  iU 

jF^ally,  to  complete  his  arpiy  he  makes  use 
^the  plan  of  recruiti&g,  aqd  also  takes  i^to  hiq 
owft  pay  the  troops  c^some  pf  his  mountaineer 
bey^,  who  carry  on  the  trade  of  chiefs  of  bul- 
^ti,  and  hire  themselves  first  to  one  Facba 
aitd  then  to  another ;  and  it  is  aoHHig  this  cla» 
that  are  found  tho&e  Arnauts  scattered  io  all 
parts  of  the  Ottoman  empire.  Generally  in 
time  of  pefce  he  only  keeps  up  an  army  of 
12  OF  15,000  men^  for  the  garristms  of  his 
forts  and  the  interitN*  safety  of  the  proviaces } 
but  he*is  aUe  to  have  on  foot  an  army  <^  at  least 
trii^e  that  number,  and  to  maintain  it  a  con- 
uderable  time  without  the  aid  of  the  Porte.  Iq 
1807  he  had  40,000  men  under  arms,  dis^- 
buted  in  the  following  mimner :— In  the  More* 
10,000,  with  his  son  Veli,  who  stood  in  need,  of 
this  force  to  sustain  himself  against  the  inhabi- 
tants  of  the  country,  who  are  sworn  enemies 
fj^  the  Albsmians  and  particularly  c^  their  new 
Sandgiak.  In  Lepanto>  under  his  sou  Mouktar, 
fee  had  8O0O,  of  whom  5000  were  destined  to 
join  ihe  army  of  die  Grand  Visir,  at  the  camp  of 
Playa,  opposite  to  St.  MaurA.  He  had  siso  10,000 
vad^  the  command  of  hi»  brother  Joussouf  Bey ; 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


GBiff .  VniJ]      TRB  TOSIXS  HLAHBB.  9SS 

andat  Pireveia,  4odd  more  under  the  orders  t^ 
hh  wlicttfT.*  In  the  'vmnous  strong  places  ttf 
the  interior  as  ireU  -as  operating  sgainit  the 
Acunanians,  he  had  abo  a  body  of  lUtout  6000 
men  {  «i4  finally,  he  had  raised  another  of 
^}00-Gue^eB  or  Bibrani,  who  were  encunped 
fi>r  Bome  time  under  the  walls  of  Jbanbina,  and 
whom  he  afterwards  seat  against  Margaritu 
The  Author,  being  at  tiiat  time  on  the  spot,  con 
aiwwer  fik  the  corre^aieM  of  the  above  8tatei> 
mcnt. 

The  payment  of  the  troofe  he  enrolls  is  not 
estaldiiihed  and  made  in  conformity  to  any  uni- 
form faa${fi  i  it  is  the  intrinsic  value  of  the  man, 
his  experience  and  his  courage,  acknowledged 
by  the  vatiooa  campugns  he  has  perfc»naed, 
which  fix  ^  qa<Ma  h&  receives.  Such  an  Al- 
tKtaian  soldier  is  worth  ^een  piastres  per 
monUi ;  whereas  his  companion  is  not  rated  at 
niore  than  ei|;))t  et  nine.  This  pay,  however, 
may  be  establif^ied  on  an  average  <^  ten  piastre 
^r  moMh,  out  of  \^ch  the  S(Jdier  ^rni^ies 
his  ewa  arms  and  dotfaing ;  but  with  r^ard  to 
the  amnumdon  it  is  Ali  Fftcha  who  is  obhge^i 
to  supply  it,  because  in  general  this  arti^de  i& 

*  SsUctmy^or  »«0Ed-basieiv  is  tiw  oaniB  girea.tooaa  of 
the  gnind  oScers  af  tbe  empire^  whose  office  eorreapoaclfl  to 
that  of  connbtable  in  France.  £acb  pach^  with  three  tails, 
pr  tlzir,  is  lOloved  one.— 1^ 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


284  THE  IONIAN  ISLAVDA      [cHAF.  Vllf, 

scarce  in  the  provinces  t^  fus  dominions.  Tl« 
food.irhich  he  fiirnishesto  hiB-8bIdi^r9>  consists 
of  only  two  poundfl  of  the  flour  of  Indian  i;oniy 
or  buck-wheat,  of  whict  tbey  niake  a  kind  <^ 
cakes,  together  with  a  sEodU  quantity  of  vege- ' 
tables.  Notwithstanding  this  economy,  AU 
Facha,  in  the  campaign  of  1807,  having  kei^ 
up  at  his  own  expense,  during  the  space  c£  ten 
months,  the  army  which  we  have  be£H%  enu- 
merated, expended  as  much  as  4,000,000  pias- 
tres, which,  added  to  the  expenses  of  provisions, 
carried  bis  tot^  disbursement  in  that  twanch' 
alone  to  6,000,000  piastres,  or  12^000,000 
ftancs,  without  calculating  the  militaty  stores 
fiinmhcd  him  by  France.:. 

His  artiOery  consists  of  about  SCO  pieces  (^ 
cannon,  existing  in  the  stroi^  places  of  Albania 
and  the  Eptrus,  without  leckoniitg  that  of  thd 
fortresses  of  the  other  governments  which  he 
has  left  in  the  same  state  in  which  it  was.  His 
srtiUeryis  badly  mounted,and  still  worse  served; 
and  the  small  number  of  pieces  mounted  on 
Europ&m  carriages  are  situated  in  the  Kastron 
of  JoJuintna,  and  at  Lifaritza,  the  .remainder 
being  mounted  on  bad  carriages,  extremely  im- 
portable and  half  rotten.  The  Turkish  artil- 
lerymen, both  lazy  and  ignorant,  are  not  tns- 
,  ceptible  of  being  taught ;  invincible  prgudices» 
a  deep  rooted  obstinacy  in  &TOur  of  tlieir  own 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP,  ynii]      THE  IONIAN  ISI.ANIM.  S8S 

uncieDt  ciutoms«  ti^ether  viUi  an  iniunDoimt&* 
ble  ^version  for  every  thing  that  is  labour  or 
study,  prevent  the  ptMnbiUty  of  nuking  any 
thing  of  them.  If  any  other  proofs  were  neces- 
Bary  than  those  which  may  be  drawn  from  the 
known  character  of  this  nation,  the  Author 
might  still  add,  that  all  the  wishes  and  effiuls  of 
the  French  officers  AH  Facba  had  demanded 
for  this  purpose,  as  well  as  the  decided  will  of 
the  Vizir,  who  felt  the  incalculable  advantage 
he  should  derive  fi<om  the  posaession  of  a  well 
ofgiBoized  artillery,  were  unable  to  produce  any 
efiect.  Ali  Pacha  has  indeed  some  field  pieces 
whicb  he  received  fivm  the  French  government, 
but  they  are  now  shut  up  in  his.  strong  places. 
It  was  even  impossiUe  for  him  to  derive  any 
advantage  from  this  species  of  artillery.  The 
prgudices  of  the  Turks,  which  do  not  allow 
them  to  use  instruments  for  cleaning  their 
pieces  made  out  of  hogs'  bristles ;  their  foolish 
dread  of  seeing  the  ammunition  coffer  blow  up, 
which  their  want  of  care  and  dexterity  renders 
extremely  possible  $  their  great  laziness,  which 
prevents  them  from  pointing  their  piece  unless 
in  a  sitting  posture,  and  which  convert  the 
traces  and  all  the  other  apparatus  into  objecta 
of  terror ;  all  th^e  united  motives  have  com- 
pelled AH  to  give  up  the  use  oi  field  pieces. 
^I^e  only  topidgi-bachi,  or  chief  artiHeryman, 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


SS8  THE  IONIAN   ISLAVOT.      [cHAP.TIIU 

injury  to  the  remittances  of  this  aitiiAb  into 
Turkey.  The  increase  in  the  expraises  of 
a  more  careful  style  of  manu&cture>  together 
with  the  loss  of  between  five  and  ten  per  cent 
experienced  by  the  proofi,  compelled  the  roer- 
cbaats  to  raise  their  prices,  and  the  Albanians 
ceased  to  purchase.  It  therefore  became  nece»- 
■ary  to  allow  the  manu&cture  of  lower  priced 
xtms,  entirely  for  the  consumption '  of  that 
country.  The  calibre  of  the  muskets  used  by 
the  Albanians  is.  estimated  according  to  tb« 
uze  of  the  ball,  which  is  ordinarily  from  five  to 
eight  drachms  short  Venetian  weight;  each 
soldier  chooses  bis  musket  aocordingto  his  own 
whim,  and  is  consequently  obliged  to  make  his 
own  cartridges  himself,  or  die  to  purchase  them 
ready  made.  This  was  a  branch  of  commerce 
resorted  to  by  the  Venetians,  who  sold  in 
that  country  a  great  deal  of  gunpowder  and 
balls  of  various  sizes,  litis  irregularity  in.  the 
armament  of  his  troops  prevents  Ali  Facha 
from  being  able  to  form  regular  su^^lies  <^ 
stores  in  ready  made  cartridges,  and  cause  them 
to  follow  his  armies. 

It  is  di£icult,  not  to  say  impossible,  to  esU- 
'mate  with  any  degree  of  certainly  the  popula- 
tion of  the  countries  governed  by  AH  Pacha* 
l^ere  is  no.fixed  basis  of  census  or  enumeration, 
which  caaseive  to  establish  a  calculation  of  this 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


m&p.  vm.3    ms  iohuh  leLANoa.  ^89 

nature.  The  Ottoman  government  having  iinr 
posed  a  tribute  under  the  name  Karatcbt  or 
£8pitati<Hi  tax  on  the  Raioi,  or  tributary  per^ 
sons  not  being  Mussulmans,  the  estimate  of  the 
pt^ulatron  of  titis  moat  numerous  doss  of  the 
Ottoman  states,  i^  usually  established  in  the 
treasury  registers  of  the  empire^  in  conformity 
to  the  produce  of  this  impost.  No  one,  how* 
ever,  can  &il  easily. to  conceive  what  great  ob* 
stacles  are  opposed  to  the  exact  distribution  of 
the  Kar^ch.  Two  causes tendingto a  contrary 
result  are  exposed  to  each  other,  and  concur  to 
reader  the  produce>uncertain,  arbitrary,  and  disr 
proportioned  to  the  exact  amount  of  the  popu- 
lation, which  ought  to  serve  as  the  basH.  The 
first  is  the  natural  resistance  of  the  Raias,  wboi 
through  personal  interest  and  national  hatredi: 
seek  to  lessen  their  number  in  order  to  diminish 
the  impost. .  The  second  is  the  spirit  of  rapa- 
city so  congenial  to  the  Turkish  agents,  who 
endeavour  to  collect  the,  Karateh  from  the 
natives  even  when  absent,  and  who  irequently 
for  several  years  continue  the  same  names  on 
the  lists  of  assessments.  The  excessive  laziness 
of  the  OsmanUs.  prevents  them  from  keeping 
exact  check-roUs  in  each  canton,  and  setting 
down ihe  chaises  from  one  year  to  the  other; 
whence  the  exaction  of  the  Karateh  always  ext 


^olizodbyGoOglc 


SOO  ran  WKiAM  nLAHM.   [oKAf .  vm. 

cites  disemsloDB  between  the  collector,  ufao  in- 
iristi  Ml  the  increase  of  births,  and  the  tribBtaries, 
who  penrist  in  a  dimimitioD  on  accomt  of  the 
deceased  and  absent. 

In  general  these  contentions  end  in  an  impoat 
in  mass,  whieh  the  tributary  sutgects  afterwards 
divide  among  themselves.  Sudi  a  town  iwnlly 
paid  the  Karatch  for  10,000  souls»  when,  1^  a. 
present  made  to  the  collector,  it  u  now  per- 
haps only  rated  at  9000,  or,  in  the  revene, 
Ijirough  an  arbitrary  act  it  possibly  may  be  as- 
aessed  at  13,000.  The  latter  is  the  case  of 
almost  all  the  cantons  depending  on  All  Pachia. 
It  m^  with  certainty  be  eitablishedj  that  every 
canton  which  he  fhvonrs,  or  is  in  txiy  way  in- 
dependent of  his  oppreasionB,  in  its  returns  is 
rated  below  its  real  population;  whereas  tiie 
contrary  happens  in  those  places  where  be 
governs  in  an  absolute  manner,  or  which  he  has 
in  view  to  punish. 

With  regard  to  the  Mussulman  sutgeots,  it  is 
still  more  difficult  to  ascertain  their  exact  num- 
ber }  because,  being  exempt  &om  all  doimciHary 
visits,  the  re^sters  of  the  Cadis,  that  is  wh«i 
they  have  any,  do  not  ocmtain  OMve  thui  v<^n' 
tary  declarations  or  nominal  returns ;  whence 
as  the  Mussulmans  have  no  Karatdi  to  pay, 
and  their  vanity  leads  them  to  esa^erate  the 


DiailizodbvGoOglc 


GRAp.Viii.^    Hat  i^ltiAW  fibASbi.  '^i 

tiiimbdr  Df  the  mbmbers  of  tbeit  femUies,  j^ 
tiCUlArly  of  their  cfiiMreb,  tliieiil  populitioil  is 
^t]9  li^B  to  be  ovef-ratfed. 
-  Afi:er  a  long  residehce  at  Jdanhina  and  d  r&- 
«eat-ch  perfotrtred  Trithdlt  the  Industry  aiid  iaga* 
city  a£  kn  e^Hghtened  mind,  aiid  at  ttle  satnfe 
time  accompanied  with  every  possible  precau- 
tion to  avoid  eriur,  Mr.  Pouqtierille,  the  Fretich 
Consul  Gfener^  in  Albania,  has  conceived  that 
^e  popuUtion  of  the  t&)minions  of  Ali  Pacha, 
that  is,  of  th^  Saridgi&kj  of  Joanrilna,  Karfi-Ili, 
Trikala,  Ochrfda,  Kapiidan^Pdcha,  Delrino,  and 
the  cautofiS  of  Avlona  And  Egribos,  of  which 
He  is  govCrnoi*,  Wight  be  rated  at  Ii500,0d0 
<ouk. '  Th6  duthoir  «ho  tesidcid  for  th^  spdce 
bf  a  year  ih  ^ia-  quarter,  and  travelled  ovet 
the  coufltiy  ill  sfevetal  directlo'ns,  is  of  tfpi- 
lAta  that  thi^  atttdtittt  is  by  no  meads  ^bove 
the  tfuth.  The  HVfdtea,  which  is  not  included  id 
fli6  above  calcdiatidn,  does  ftot  at  present  toni 
fain  ifiol-e  than  436,(X30  souls ;  and  the  S^ndgiak 
of  ti^pairtdf  is  vfery  thinly  peopled.  As  a  further 
ffioStfatroft  to  thi?  part  of  our  sdbject,  we  shall 
iUbjoifl  the  popalation  of  th6  principal  citiei 
Arid  tff*fis  bfeiongtng  to  Ali  Pacha,  or  the  vizif- 
iWp  tit  Berat,  which  have  ntft  hithetto  beeii 
eiifabli^^  by  e:itisti'ng  gfebgraphers. 

Arftf,  10,600  J  Ai-giro-Kastrb,  12;000;  Ala*: 

•dttfl,  4&cti  i^taSt-iijOOO/i  Czataidza,  3006; 

V3     . 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


S98  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.      [CHAP.TU 

Delvino,  8000 ;  Elbassaa,  6000 ;  Kastoria, 
12,000}  Katrin,  1500;  Lariua;  20,000;  Livadi, 
10,000;  Margariti,  6000;  Metzovo,  7000; 
Mooastir,  IJ,000;  Ochrida,  6000;  VhtsanoDa, 
2000 ;  Paramithia,  8000 ;  FbaraaHa,  8500 ;  Tn. 
kala,  8000  ;  Turnovo,  3000  ;  Volo,.3000 ;  Zei- 
tqun,  3000. 

What  has  already  been  «aid  of  the  character 
of  All  Facha>  as  well  as  of  bis  boundless  am- 
bition and  the  line  of  political  conduct  which 
has  tended  to  his  successive  aggrandizement* 
may  have  already  furnished  the  reader  with  some 
idea  of  bis  views  on  the  Ionian  Islands.  His 
constant  project^  to  the  executttm  of  which  be 
proceeds  onwards  with  patience  and  inde&tiga- 
blc  activity*  notwithstanding  he  has  hitherto 
been  unable  to  foresee  the  exact  moment  of  its 
accomplishment,  is  the  independence  and  en- 
tire separation  of  his  dominions  from  the  Otto* 
man  empire.  It  is  under  this  view  that  he  has 
uniformly  endeavoured  to  enter  into  corr&i 
spondence  and  hold  connections  with  the  othei; 
European  states,  and  has  changed  his  relations 
each  time  that  the  situation  of  the ,  powers  to. 
whom  he  was  attached  altered  with  regard  to 
himself  or  Turkey.  In  order  to  secure  to  hi'm- 
aelf  the  possession  of  his  continental  dcmiliion^ 
by  completing  the  reducUon  of  the  clans  stiU 
independent  of  his  authority,  as  well  «s  to  cqn- 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


CHAPiVlIl.]      THE  lOMIAK  ISLANDS;  29» 

solidate  his  power  and  sustain  himself  alone,  he 
stands  in  need  of  the  Ionian  Islands*  and  they 
have  always  constituted  the  object,  more  dr  less- 
secret,  of  his  wishes.  la  1800,  he  had  a' 
fevourable  opportunity  to  remove  from  the" 
Continent  a  power  which  had  constantly  thwart-' 
ed  him,  and  to  open  to  himself  access  tii- the 
Adriatic  Sea,  from  wht^h  he  had  been  alsto^l^ 
escluded,  or  at  least  very  much  restrairieel.'--  Gf 
&is  he  hastened  to  avail  himself  by 'sei^bgj  !a^' 
we  have  previously  noticed,  on  the  Ionian  towns' 
of  the  main-luid.  The  presence  of  tho  Kussiani 
and  Ottoman  forces  prevented  him  from  gding 
any  further,  and  the  treaty  of  1800  even  placed 
obstacles  in  his  way,  by  jweventing  him  from' 
holding  garrisons  in  the  above  towns  which 
were  only  tobe  tributary,  and' where  originally 
he  was  allowed  no  other  than  a  civil  governor.*^ 
But  he  had  already  niade  away  with  the  principal ' 
inhabitants,  as  well  as  those  whom  he'believed 
could  obstruct  his  views.  At  Prevesa  alone' 
he  caused  130  heads  to  be  cut  off  in  one 
day,  and  he  had  the  means  of  entering  into 
the  town  whenever  he  wished ;  and  indeed  in 
1805  he  watched  a  &vourabIe  oppoiftunity,  and 
established  a  garrison  there.  The  retreat  of 
the  Russian  troops  appeared  to  place  the  loniui' 
Islands  at  his  disposal,  and  at  that  time  if  he 
had  only  been  possessed  of  a  navy,  or  had' 
3 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


thought  lh?t  Ifs  TW«We  *»  t^*  Cflft  l*^  ^t» 
MW^  bx  a  fO(«  (fc  ifioin,  h?  .Vf?(W(ly.  -vi^. 
Ijaye  4l^iie.4  pp^ewioii  of^^Hi-  Pf  aftwn 
^au^  sov^ht,.  is,  w^  ;hav5  )\lr«d)p  )(a(^  fccasfa^ 
tfl  |io(ioe,  tVough  Iw  isffigqw  tfl  hays  ii.^  q^ 
pf)rtw|flty  <(f  letting  tl^  ftw'  fw'^i  ¥>4  i*  fiWi 
hi^  ccfdti  9^  CqBst^ntiTtVP^  ^PPoFt^  ^  Iw^ 
gal4>.l!'a^  an  rte  ppipt  «f  obt^iqing  for  ^lini;  thu 
qr^er  tliat  i)r^,  Iq  i^^ke  him  flia»»^f  of  59Wiit 
Tlhen  h^  was  foiestirtM  t>y  H\(s|i^,  4^4  )iif,  pn^ 
jec^,i|efe^(e4.  The  pi^w  wMph  H  thaij,  e^ 
perieqc^cl,  ^^s,  tjiq  M«  c^iye  q£  hjp  wimpsil^ 

tp  Efwoe  w^il  (  |l«p<  %(  %<|ivg  li.^E  wse  ^: 
ViPliE^W^  ^o  his  vi)^flf«t 

ft  wai  WPre  pwtJcuMy  ^  ISO?:  th(lt  bq  qofk 
oeiived  hiiiasi!|l£  ()n,lih«  «v^  pSwwjfthw  wishw. 
a»p«i»pfohai,;Trtell¥<H5<>Hf8  6*rni^hs<}t(>.  him, 
•W  ?raweitiln;WP¥dSKUi»»  «/*  irtticS  h«ifw 
tr«*!i  'W4  #i«h  s(!j|j(ie4  IB  i?1m=.  Wb  <>n,% 
I^y^  wijth  or-owq?d  hj^, ,  cqwpl^ljii^  ^affllsd; 
hi*,  mi  he  «9agiflei},  h^hiidi  a»qHirq<l  ly^h^ 
IW4  cnajjt  ill  t^  f.^Vfffi4i  b^ifffl^  ^f'SurpJIi' 
He  v«  Wf^se  th^t  it,  <ii»e«(oni  o/il  l^,s»^  wflii 

msfcj  *?,*<>  Etwcfc  a*w  qf  Wmw».,  ?ii- wi 

oi»)lipg  *»  WWtiqn  q{ths.I^upjiaiiGis<tei»)ftto. 
C»rfM>;ap(}  ^s  dWthftlsM  hiipiftljf  wiife^gB«eflfe 
gqpdf%lth,  3o.'Mi»ihi8,*ye»>'iP8^WeqitS^ 
tp.iif  n«in,  witiout  ijs  1^,  ^^tjqpgf^ge^  %^  Jig 


3oi,z.dbvGoogIe 


CVAF •  Vttl.]      TIQft  lOMIAK   iU^ANDfc  IM 

Ti^ed  bis  OWB  extreiBiely  high,  he  believed  tb«G 
the  FreDcb  goveraiQent.  could  no  loDgec  vefiufi 
to  turn  the  poasewion  of  the  Ionian  lalaada^ 
and  be  did  not  wltfah<^  this  as  a  seciet  &odat 
the  ^ents  of  the  latter  |>0wer^  but  preteqded 
that  it  wu  only  coBui^nt  with  justice  to  grant 
faia  deMmnd.  He  did  aot  fear  to  advance  tba^ 
the  eeaWKi  he  required  «a8  ev^  ootuforinaUe 
to  Ute  mterests  of  France,  by  securing  to  her  ii 
poww&I  a^7  in  the  Moditerraaeaib 

The  f  ecei^on  his  envoy^  Mehemet  Eftndi, 
m^  with  at  Warsaw,  and  which  possiMy  be  e&i 
ag^reted  io  oeder  to  gain  the  good  wUl  ot  hi9 
madtsr*  tended  to  cxnfirp  AU  in  the  opinion 
thtti  it  w»  the  Efaperer  Nspoleon^s  istentioo  to 
ratae  hen  stiU  higher  and  ounoHdate  his  power. 
He  then  no  loQ^r  kept  his  pirojectB  and  hopes 
tmdei  the  veil  of  sfscKcy*  and  his  cooftiers  and 
ooQ&leadal  afenfls  spoke  of  Mm  m  wy  other 
li^t  thae  as  the  future  kiii^  of  the  Greeks.  He 
caused  the  rictortcB  of  the  Frendt  utay  tor  be 
pubtiahed  and  eren  ejlaggerated.  He.  caiued  a 
courier  to  avrive  &otii  Conitantino^e^  whidi 
Mmoanccd  the  suppoBed  capAuFe  of  ^ig** 
Revel,  and  Naeva,.  an  approadnng  peace,  and 
the  abandoanrat  of  the  Sewn!  Islands  by  the 
Russiasa;  leoretly  it  was  abo  added  tiiat  an 
iodepeiuknti  kingdom)  was  abrat  tai  be  ooBiti- 
tutcd  im  Greece^  and  that  with  i£  AJk  was  tahe 


^lailizSdbyGoOgle 


i96  THE  IONIAN  ISLAND*.      [CHAP.  Vin. 

invested.  However,  having  learned  through 
bis  envoy  that  the  negotiations  for  peace  had 
been  opened  at  msit,  he  was  unable  to  divest 
bimself  of  anxiety,  and  did  not  cease  asking 
the  French  agents  a  thousand  captious  questions, 
and  sounding  them  through  his  confidential 
agents,  for  the  purpose  of  penetrating  the  pur- 
port of  their  instructions,  and  knowing  what 
they  contained  with  regard  to  the  Ionian  Islands. 
As  soon,  however,  as  he  understood  the.  real 
stipulations  of  the  treaty,  and  was  informed  of 
the  arrival  of  a  French  Governor  and  trodps  at 
Corfii,  he  was  scarcely  able  to  conceal  his  angery 
and  was  even  on  the  point  of  breaking  out  into 
open  hostilities.  He  reproached,  and  caused 
his  confidential  servants  to  reproach,  die  French 
agents  with  the  ingratitude  and  perfidy  of  thdr 
government,  which  he  asserted  had  made  pro- 
mises to  him  which  they  no  longer  intended  to 
perform.  The  communications  with  Corfii  be* 
came  nearly  as  difficult  as  they  had  been  in  time 
of  war,  and  he  applied  himself  in  a  particular 
manner  to  prevent  the  Septinsulars^  and  the 
French  garrison  from  obtaining  oh  the  continent 
the  fire>wood  and  the  other  necessaries  which 
the  Islands  do  not  afford.  As  soon  as  a  ^dsh 
fleet  again  appeared  in  the  loniui  seas,  and 
began  to  blockade  Corfu  and  to  attack  the 
other  islands,  he  entertained  a  hope  that  England 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CttAt.  Vm.^3      *HE  tOHIAN  fSLARDS.  297 

Would  avail  herself  of  him  in  order  to  effect 
their  conquest,  or  that  he  should  at  least  be 
able  to  occupy  St.  Maura,  which  he  was  in  a 
ftate  to  besiege  from  the  continent,  though 
iBost  assuredly  he  never  could  have  taken  it. 
Hia  hc^es  were  however  defeated,  and  the  peace 
which  has  now  guaranteed  afresh  the  existence 
of  the  Ionian  republic  ought  to  have  proved  to 
him  the  inutility  of  his  projects.  We  shall  see 
by  the  conduct  he  may  hereafter  observe  what 
sentiments  the  above  event  has  produced  in  him, 
and  what  influence  his  hopes  of  the  future,  which 
he  still  retains,  may  have  on  his  relations  with 
the  Seven  Islands.  Will  he  at  length  become  the 
sincere  friend  of  the  power  occupying  the  Io- 
nian Islands,  a  circumstance  so  contrary  to  the 
avowed  principles  and  practice  of  his  past  con- 
duct ? 

Amidst  his  projects  of  aggrandizement,  and 
the  plans  which  he  forms  and  seeks  to  execute 
as  means  of  consolidating  his  power,  he  is  not, 
faowever,  altogether  at  ease  respecting  the  fate 
thiat  will  ^efall  the  dominions  he  governs  after 
his  death.  He  apprehends  that  the  hatred  and 
intrigues  of  the  Greeks  will  disturb  the  quiet  of 
his  children;  and  he  equally  dreads  the  &tal 
consequences  their  own  dissensions  may  pro- 
duce. On  this  head  the  marked  di&rence  of 
their  characters  inspires  him  with  the  most  in- 


>i,zt!dbvGoogIe 


S9«  'J;H£  IfWUN  IU>AN0^     [^CttAf.VIB. 

au^cious  p«-«aa^s.  MouktWk  At  eldest,  u 
l»8ve»  generous,  and  Uf^bt ;  he  kivea  the  arte 
9Dd  sciences,  aad  his  intercourse  vith  £uphroK 
j^aa  had  coiuiderably  tended  ta  the  poli^  of  bia 
mind.  Yet  war  is  bis  hafaatual  element  and  &• 
TOttrite  passion }  and  when  he  is  unaUe  to  give 
Ikintaelf  up  to  this  occupation,  be  derates  his 
time  to  hunting.  Simple  in  his  dress,  leber 
even  to  frugality,  and  hardy  in  his  halHts,  he 
travels  over  the  mountains  on  foot  in  bis  banb< 
ing  excursions ;  be  £tres  on  sintple  tvead  and 
vater  without  complaint ;  he  cares  not  if  he  lays 
hardly ;  and  in  the  camp  he  is  in  the  midat  of 
his  soldiers>  and  sleep?  on  the  ground  wrapped 
i^  in  a  coarse  Albanian  cloak.  Faithful  in  fill- 
fiUing  his  engf^ments,  there  is  no  one  in  All's 
dominions  who  does  not  hasten  at  his  first  rfe 
quest  to  furnish  what  he  wishes :  he  returns  it 
scrupulously  at  the  term  prefixed,  fre(pieatly 
adds  a  recompense,  and  always  obliging  expres- 
sions. When  he  departed  for  Lepanto,  IS 
days  before-hand  he  caused  it  to  be .  puhLbhed 
by  the :  sound  of  trumpet,  that  every  oae  wbo 
had  any  claims  against  him  which  he  might  bare 
forgotten  was  to  recur  to  him  in  order  to-  receive 
payment.  He  settled  his  accouftts  with  ally  and 
one:  of  his  creditors,  at  that  time  absent  from 
JoMtnina,  hKvmg  met  him  on  the  road^  he  cauaed 
bis  suite  to  stop  whilst  he  reimbursed  him.    The 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


Q|fy^,VlU.^      1«^  lONIAK   ISLANDh  999 

a^verit^  «d4  honesty  (^  Mouktar'^  prinaiple« 
cwder  turn  cold,  though  respeqtfu],  towards  bio 
;^heF,  §n^  uta^e  him  ^^pifW  hii.  tM'Otb»r»  wjbost 
ItA  treftteAs  A  di^hpqest,  debauchq^,  an^  diswU 
9!^^9d  tlw^cter.  jVWi  on  h«  "de,  u  pot  much 
gitt^che^  t9  bititi  wd^  eyea  ]^ars,  bim ;  Ijut  iit  r«>* 
tWB  be  ia  beloved  aod  este^medl  by  l^e  Greeks* 
«n<[  i^erisb^  ^nd  respected  by  the  Albasiiww. 
Vcii,  Ali  ^dQb^'s  second  aoa,  pos^w*  wsay 
of  the  ch«r«^e?i9|tic  tr«i<3  of  bis  ^9j^«p.  Like 
him  he  ^  4<wiciOAteii  Ambitious,  dwenbUngi  ftad 
difitfi^iU.  Re  is  ^ao  equally  addicted  to  ra^ 
pioe»  9iid  e:(tremely  un&ithful  i»  complyiiig; 
vUh  1MB  eng(^eroe»t8  j  but  he  ia  very  &r  front 
being  p^ssee^et)  of  the  same  faeilitiea  of  boriiovr- 
qvwing  n^oney  W  hk  brother^  notwithstanding 
he  ^9re  $:^qiVQatly  sit^n^S'  \n  need.  Kei  is  ifendl 
qC  luxury  4Bdi94e?iiiSQe«ce)  the  3uiaptaousB«u 
^  bi^  g»T^Mm»t  tb¥  lacfene^s  of  his  fttreiture,. 
and  fcbe  care  pf  bis  tit^let,  are  to^  him  vaots,  and. 
evn^^Sdciousocctt^tvon^.  fiis  coiidittct  w  nutrked: 
1}y  i^n  efieo^^te  SioAqi^k,  and  be  I9  greatly  ad- 
4ia4e4  tc^ple^NKfi  aod  debwich.  predigal  even 
1^  disugal;ic^  •whfiTk  be  seek^  to  <iomply  witb  hta 
whims  or  caprice,  be  is  always  under,  a,  load  of 
^htfinMM^  pays  bis.^ervapls  little  aod:  ill.  He 
Ijvn  a  4«?ide4  tastA  Sot  tb&iMageft  and  the  freo; 
dwv,  «f  I^HWpeap  B»  w«re,  a^d  passonafidyi  der. 
pim  ist,hiNir^%theAi?<i-at:bH;QVD  df^owl;.  V^t: 


DiailizodbvGoOglc 


SOO  THE   IONIAN   ISIAMDS.       [cHAP.  VIII. 

one  day  asked  the  French  Consul  General,  pwnt- 
htg  out  to  him  the  principal  mosque  at  Joan- 
nina,  whether  it  would  be  sufficiently  large  to 
be  converted  into  a  theatre^  on  the  model  of 
those  of  Italy.  He  would  have  been  extremely- 
glad  to  travel  in  Europe,  to  appear  at  the  dif- 
ferent courts  as  a  rich  and  powerful  prince,  and 
to  be  able  to  study  European  manners  at  bis 
own  leisure.  In-  such  an  excursion  he  promised 
to  himself  new  enjoyments.  He  made  the  pro- 
posal to  his  fiither,  and  even  insisted  on  its  poli- 
tical utility.  But  Ali  Pacha,  who  knew  his  pro> 
pensities  to  dissipation,  and  who  calculated  that 
it  would  be  necessary  to  sacrifice  some  millions 
of  piastres,  absolutely  reiiised  his  ccHisent. 
Veil,  however,  is.  not  devoid  o€  courage;  and 
his  conduct  during  the  last  war  with  Russia  ena* 
bled  him  to  gain  both  praise  and  consideration. 
He  is  extremely  jealous  of  his  brother,  and  does 
not  appear  disposed,  notwithstanding  he  is  the 
eldest,  to  allow  Mouktar  to  remain  in  peaceful 
possession  of  Joannina  after  his  father's  death. 
Ali,  on  his  part,  loves  Veli  better  than  his  eldest 
son }  but  with  regard  to  him  he  is  not  the  less 
distrustful. 

The  situation  of  Veli  Pacha  has,  however,  of 
late  years  experienced  a  great  variation.  At 
the  issue  of  the  last  war  against  Russia,  in  which 
he  distinguished  himself  with  honour,  he  was 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.VIII.]      THE   IONIAN   ISLANDS.  801 

deprived  of  the  vizirship  of  the  Morea*  which 
was  given  by  Sultan  Mahmoud  to  a  Turk  of 
Constantinople  named  Achmet  Facha.  Thq 
pretext  alleged  for  this  deposition  was  the  com* 
plaints  addressed  to  the  seat  of  government  by 
the  inhabitants.  But  as  AJi Pactutexpressed no 
displeasure  at  the  event,  as  his  credit  near  th« 
Forte  is  not  diminished,  and  as  Achmet  was  one 
of  his  own  creatures,  and  one  of  his  agents 
near  the  Divan,  it  is  not  difficult  to  perceivs 
that  this  change  originated  in  himself,  and  that 
the  true  motive  proceeded  from  the  jealousy  he 
nourishes  even  against  his  own  children.^  Velt 
was  too  powerful  in  Morea  to  be  submissive  to 
him,  and  the  care  he  took  to  protect  the  inha- 
bitants of  the  country,  and  to  gain  their  aSec- 
tions,  made  bis  lather  apprehensive  that  he 
wished  to  render  himself  independent  of  his 
will.  Achmet  Facha,  a  fanatic  Tu^  and  an 
unlettered  man,  is  much  easier  controlled,  and 
the  Morea  is  still  in  reality  under  ^e  depend- 
ance  of  Ali.  In  &ct  the  latter  has  since  caused 
the  deposition  of  his  son  to  serve  one  of  his  own 
political  ends.  The  city  of  Larissa,  although 
dependent  on  the  Sandgiak  of  Trikala,  accus- 
tomed to  have  a  particular  governor  selected 
irom  among  its  Beys,  had  never  consented  to 
receive  Ali  within  its  walls-,  and  only  obeyed 
him  by  halves.    The  Divan  itself  kept  up  this 


ji.iiiz,,!:,.,  Google 


tat  ittK  MtruH  IttutlM.     t<AAK  fttt. 

nlnindentuididg,  and  had  nttet  grant«d  tii  All 
t  /»IM»  S>t  thit  patticulat  polht.  la  CttiAtf 
hh  son  to  be  named  hy  the  Sultmi  GdVernoi-  of. 
iMitai,  he  had  the  guta  ot  the  dty  0(>ened  W 
Uin,  and  the  Beys  have  beed  contpelled  to  bend 
to  his  authority,  supported  by  the  will  Of  thd 
Sovereign. 

Sally  Bey,  the  thtM  bititliii',  is  a  ehijd  thit 
hu  scarcely  left  the  harem.  He  has  k  hand' 
ftoffle  peraont  and  seeMs  possessed  of  a  mild 
Miaracten  At  present  all  that  can  he  said  of  Um 
b,  that  he  is  the  real  ftvourite  of  AUj  McausA 
hitherto  he  ts  not  becMne  in  elgece  ef  dread  af 
Jeaknisy  to  him. 


j,=,i,z<,dDvGoogIf 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Inttrior  Situation  of  the  Dwmmotu  of  Ah 
Pecha-^History  of  the  Souliots^-The  Chi' 
mariots.-^ Albanian  Dress   end  Soldiers.—^ 

■  Maimers  and  Character  of  the  Albaniant./^- 
Tchingaenes,  or  Gipsies.  — AUanian  Lan' 
gtutge, — CUmate.—'Proibtctiont.'-'Commerce. 
•^-Character  and  MatMers  of  the  Epirots  and 
Continental  Greeks. — State  of  the  Moroa.~* 
Character  and  Manners  of  its  Inhabitants. -^ 
Misforttmes  this  Country  experienced  in  1770u 
-.-Productiom  and  CoTiunerce. 

The  interior  of  the  dominions  of  AU  Pach* 
itill  exhibits  the  traces  of  the  convulsive  parti- 
tioQS  by  which  they  were  formed,  And  manifests 
that  want  of  union  existing  between  heteroge- 
neous parts  which  an  external  power  had  joined 
<Hie  to  the  other  without  any  consideration  to 
their  relations,  interests,  or  even  their  habits. 
They  may  be  viewed  in  the  light  of  an  aggrega- 
ti<m  of  provinces  in  themselves  possessed  of  di& 
ftrent  interests ;  of  an  assemblage  of  separate 
iHirts  which  hitherto  nothing  leads  towvds  one 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


804  TKE   IONIAN   ISLANDS.         [CHAf .  IX. 

common  object.  The  Morea  detesta  tlie  yoke 
she  bears ;  and,  hating  the  Albanians  even  to 
execration  since  the  massacres  of  1770,  she  is 
always  ready  to  rise  up  in  revolt  whenever  a  ^ 
vourable  opportunity  should  occur.  The  dis- 
tricts of  the  Sandgiak  of  Egribos  .apparently  go- 
verned in  the  name  of  the  Forte,  but  in  fact 
under  the  sway  and  despotic  rod  of  Ali,  can 
experience  no  other  than  disadvantageous  effects 
from  this  mixed  government,  which  exposes 
them  to  all  kinds  of  vexations,  without  affitrd- 
ing  them  any  certain  protection.  Thessaly, 
whose  Beys  were  formerly  accustomed  to  live  in 
a  manner  almost  independent  under  the  govern- 
ment of  Uie  Sandgiak  of  Trikala,  and  who  were 
satisfied  with  merely  enriching  themselves,  en- 
dures with  impatience  so  heavy  a  ydce.as  that 
of  Ali ;  and  the  resistance  which  the  city  of 
Larissa  opposes  to  him,  being  the  asylum  of  all 
those  be  has  proscribed  and  despoiled  of  their 
property,  is  a  testimony  of  the  hatred  the  Thes- 
salonians  bear  towards  him.  The  province  of  Jo- 
annina,  the  one  most  directly  trampled  upon  by 
Ali  Pacha,  regrets  even  the  anarchy  in  which  it 
was  under  the  twenty-two^Beys  to  whom.it  was 
formeriy  subservient,  who  sometimes  gave  rise 
to  troubles  and  inquietude,  but  did  not  exposes 
it  to  those  continual  spoliations  and  vexation* 
which  now  compel  the  inhabitants  to  live  with 


_  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


CHAP.IX.J         aHE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  SO* 

all  the  exterior  of  poverty/in  order  not  to  incur 
Abe  ^  (tf  being  stripped  of  their  property  or 
deprived  of  their  lives. 

Acamania,  inhabited  b^-Greeks  whose  po- 
Terty  obliges  them  to  seek  in  the  pillage  of  the 
heighbouring  provinces,  the  means  of  subsist- 
ence, and  whom  their  hatred  against  Ali  Pacha 
preferably  impels  to  attack  his  property,  has  hi- 
therto resisted  his  subjection.  The  districts  of 
Klissoura,  Fremiti,  and  Argiro-Kastro,  and  the 
pachalics  of  Belvino  and  Arta  are  not  more 
devoted  to  him.  The  cantons  of  Macedonia, 
now  subject  to  him  have  not  forgotten  the  sack* 
ing  of  Monastir,  and  the' grievances  they  e:£pe^ 
rienced  from  Ali  in  the  capacity  of  dervendgi- 
pacha.  The  only  effect  the  government  of  this 
vizir  has  produced  for  them  has  been  obstacles 
to  tbeir  ancient  and  habitual  relations  with  Sa- 
lonica.  In  the  centre  <^  his  dominions  he  lives 
in  almost  a  constant  state  of  war&re  with  the 
people  of  Margariti,  Tzamouri,  and  Chimara, 
and  be  is  exposed  to  the  frequent  inroads  of  the 
-Acsmanians  and  Souliots,  who  sometimes  come 
to  the  very  gates  of  his  capital.  Hereafter  we 
shall  enter  into  the  history  of  the  Souliots.  In 
a  wtord,  if  Ali  Facha  ceased  to  live,  hi^  death 
•nfovld  become  the  signal  for  an  universal  con- 
vulsion V  uid  even  now  a  momentous  defeat 
would  fliffice  to  bring  upon  him  irretrievable 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


306  THE  IONIAN   ISLAKDI.  [CKAP.IX. 

ruin.  Surrounded  by  enemies,  wea  within  hb 
own  capital,  nothing  but  the  dread  be  inspim, 
'and  the  resources  of  his  policy,  retain  nndar  bis 
yoke  danB  and  people  at  all  Umes  ripe  ^  revolt. 
The  district  of  Tepeleni  alone  is  iaith&l  to  him, 
wherefore  has  be  chosen  it  for  his  last  retreat,  and 
there  secreted  the  greatest  part  of  his  treasures^ 
It  may  perhaps  iqipear  astonishiag  that  in  so 
critical  a  situadoji,  and  encompassed  by  ao  many 
dangers,  Ali  I^ha  has  been  able  to  maintain 
iionelf  in  peaee,  without  experiencing  a  shock, 
SUK  indeed  any  revolt  of  importance.  His  cha> 
racter,  however,  and  his  policy  furnish  bim  wld 
Ifae  means  of  retaining  his  sul^ects  in  their  duty, 
even  when  the  vigilance  of  bis  police,  together 
wi^  his  own,  bad  been  unable  to  prevent  the 
gn>wtb  <^  an  insurrection.  The  fir^  has  made 
known  in  all  countries  he  .governs  the  proaq>ti- 
tude  and  implacability,  as  well  as  the  iiirooity»  o{ 
his  vengeance ;  this  by  every  one  is  considered 
infell^le  fmd  inevitable,  and  each  one  tremUes 
to  draw  it  down  on  himself.  The  seooad  isthe 
same  policy  he  employs  towardsJiis  domesticB^ 
and  all  those  who  approach  bim  or  fill  places  <^ 
confidence  j  and  this  is,  that  of  holding  hostages 
fi'om  every  person  whom  he  judges,  through 
their  credit,  riches,  or  talents,  may  become  dan- 
gerous to  him.  He  retains  in  his  power  their 
wives  and  childrea;  and  these  innocent  vibttmt 


soiizodbyGoogle 


CHAP.  IX.3  THE  lONUH  ISLANDS;  807 

-would  have  to  expiate,  uoder  the  most  ^teadfiil 
executions,  the  smallest  crime  he  might  have  to 
impute  to  the  head  of  their  fiimily. 

It  is  in  this  manner  that  he  secures  t»  fa^self 
the  fideli^  of  his  military  chiefi ;  those  of  Hm 
Gu^fues  are  the  only  ones  who  have  r^sed  to. 
consent  to  this  condition>  and  hence  did  he  send 
them  back  to  their  homes  as  soon  as  was  po^ 
Bible.  During  the  war  of  1807  this  critical  and 
dangerous  position  did  not  escape  die  penetcmk 
tion  of  AH  Pacha»  and  he  was  perfectiy  swim 
of  all  the  ills  which  the  chieft  of  the  Russiaa 
troops  in  the  Seven  Islands,  as  well  as  the  mi* 
nister  of  the  ktter  power,  might  ha^  occaaoned 
to  him,  if  they  had  united  activity  and  vigour  in 
tlieir  conduct}  and  known  how  »  avail  them- 
selves of  the  means  they  possessed.  The  smallest 
movement  of  the  Tziamides,  or  the  simple  re- 
port o£  the  Rusuans  landii^  at  Fuga  or  in 
Acamania,  then  gave  him  the  greatest  inqtue- 
tude.  Those  he  most  feared,  however,  were  the 
Chimariots  and  the  other  Greek  Alba&ians  in 
the  service  of  Russia,  and  psttticularly  the  Sou- 
liofa.  Th^  were,  in.&ct,  his  most  inveteratd 
enemies,  because  they  had  to  avenge  a  most 
atrocious  war  and  the  destruction  of  their 
country. 

The  country  of  SouU,  situated,  as  we  have  al- 
ready lioticed,  in  an  inclosed  valley  of  Uie  upj^c 


soiizodbyGoogle 


W8  THE  lOHIAN. ISLANDS.  [cHAP.  IX, 

part.of  ariver  which.takes  its  rise  in  the  southern 
declivity  of  .the  Cassit^ian  mountains,  and  falH 
into  the  sea  atport  Phanari,  .supported  itself  in 
a  state  of  ind^)endence  till  the  year  1786.  It 
was  at  this  period  that  Ali  Pacha,  having  sub- 
jected to  his  arms  all  the  bed  of  the  Cbelydnus, 
ivith  the  exception  of  Argiro-Kastro,  and  ;ad- 
vauced  as  far  as  the  gates  of  Joanninaand  Arta, 
began  to  think  ;of  invading  the  Epims.  .The 
presence  of  these  republicans  obstructed  his 
prqjects  on  Arta,  and  served  as  a  point  of  supi- 
port  to  Moustapha,  Pacha  of  Delvino,  whose 
&ther  he  had. juat  assassinated,  but  whose  sub- 
jects had  driven  him  from  their  .city.  The  canton 
of  Soulij  besides  being  the  capital,  contains  18 
villages,  of  which  five  are  jsituated  in  the  south. 
era  and  less  difficult  part  of  the  valley  towards 
Louro,  and  the  13  others  in.  the  upper  part, 
more,  inaccessible,  rugged^  and  filled  vrith  de- 
files. The  inclosed  vaUey  of  Souli  is  only  accea- 
sible  by  its  southern  and,  western  borders,  where 
the  Paramitbia road. opens,  the  only  practicable 
one  by  which  it  is  possible  to  approach.  This 
entrance-is  a  narrow  and  difficidt  deSle,  called 

the   neck   of    Skouitias,   {to  irrtva¥    t»ic,   Sk^it.*!,) 

leading  to  the  village  of  this  name .  situated  ia 
the  valley  itself.  After  passing  Skouitias,  we 
arrive:  at  KUssoura,  a  post  extremely  strong, 
seated  on  the  ri\;er  Souh,  ^nd  nhich  is  the  key 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


cnip.  tx.]       THE  IONIAN  isi^ums;  sod 

of  the  wbok  VaUey.  To  the^.<of  Klissoura  ii 
the  lai^  village  of -Navarikos^  or  Tripia,  on  a 
rugged  and  steep  devation;-  and'  nearly  oppo- 
site, on  another' eminence,' IB:  Kiapha.  After 
passing  Klissoura,  the  road  crosses'  the  rivers 
and  proceeds' along*  the  foot  of- the  post  of  Ti- 
chos,  situated  on  a  rock  easily  defended,  and 
vhich  it  is  necessary  to  take  before  it  is  possible 
to'proceed  onwards.  After  leaving  Tichos  we 
ascend  to  Samonitza,  and  still  higher  up  is  found 
the  small  town  of  Kako-Souli, '  or  Mega-Souli, 
which  was  formerly  the  capital  of  the  republic. 
In  the  extreme  upper  part  of  the  valley,'  among 
the  Gassiopian  mauntains, '  and  on  steep  and 
rugged  rocks,  were  tbe'posts  of  I>aka  and  Agia- 
l^askevi,  whach  ci-ownedand  commandedall 
the  other  positions.  '  The  other  villages  of  any 
in^rtahce  in  this  country  were  Tzi^ari,  Peri- 
cfaati,Vounon-ZavTonchoh,Panagia-toii-Glikeo8, 
and.Milo8. 

On  being  attacked  by  Ali  Facha^  the  Souliots 
defended  themsdves'with  the  greatest- courage',' 
andfirequentlywith  success,  notwithstandifi]^  the 
di3pn^[K)rtioB  of  their  forces.  Till  the  year  1 79? 
t^e  war  which  Ali  Pacha  carried  on  against  thenx 
consisted  only  of  attempts  to  surprize  their  po-' 
sitionB,  and  these  were  principally  directed 
against  the  villages  situated  in  the  southern  part 
ofthe  valley}  and  the  campaign  Ali  was' at  that 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


SIO  Tta  urniAH  nLAMSOw       [chat,  k* 

time  oUigsd  to  ttndalake  a^inut  the  EuBuans 
-afibnded  &«  SoulioU  a  degree  of  respite.  On 
kia  retoiB,  however,  having  obtained  the  Sand* 
giak  of  Txikala  and  seized  «n  Joenoiiia»  the  in- 
crease  of  his  fwver  and  forces  furnished  faiiQ 
with  the  means  of  pushing  the  war  against  these 
leduded  r^nblicans  irith  greater  vigour.  He 
vaxfiayei  even  aa  many  as  24*000  aaea  against 
Atait  though  they  themselves  were  nevtt  able 
to  aasemble  moie  than  BfiOO  uiuler  arms.  He 
SottUota  nevertheless  de&nded  their  coentiy 
aad  their  homes  with  equal  and  pexsevering  bra- 
t«7j  and  caused  the  war  to  last  finirteen  yeais. 
Duri]^  this  tine  AU  Pacha  fi-oqucintlj  expo* 
rieneed  great  lesaes»  and  more  than  once,  firom 
the  windows  of  his  awn  palace,  be  beheld  the 
Muntiy  round  his  capital  ravaged  bj  the  war« 
nora  of  this  new  Hesaena.  A  young  Amazea^ 
nrnnad  Cheitha,  who  had  lost  hes  husband  in 
battle,  and  bad  seen  her  children  massacred^-. 
most  ubfar  ha  own  eyes,  <^  ^  the  du«A  of 
Samili  was  the  one  who  did  the  moat  injury  ta 
Ali  Pacha.  FrcqueiriJy  die  carried  &%  and 
niord  miider  the  very  walls  of  Joannma,-  «nd 
tvery  thing  fled  before  her.  This  hcrnn^  hai^ 
iag  escaped  fivm  the  duastera  of  her  country 
ap  to  the  year  1B06,  commanded  at  Corfu  a  bat> 
ttdion  c^  Souliots  in  the  service  of  Russia,  with 
tfas  rank  of  Major-    At  this  period  she  retired 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


OAT.  IX.]         TBE  lOmAM   IILAKIM,  SIX 

to  tha  canton  of  Lefehimo^  and  Aere'agmt 
married.  JShe  was  then  only  so  yoan  of  age^^ 
sad  was  stilt  possessed  ef  great  beau^ 

In  ITMr  AU  Fscha  bhherto  had  been  able 
to  take  only  the  lomr  Tillages  of  the  valfce;f, 
which,  sittuted  without  the  almost  ioacceesiUc 
neck  dosed  in  by  the  post  of  Tkhoe,  form  a 
species  cf  exterior  inclosore.  At  lengUi  at  tlift 
commeacemeBt  of  1800,  uniting  his  wh(de> 
ftrces  against  these  proud  and  hardy  repub- 
lioaiu,  w«thy  of «  better  fiite,  he  caused  all  the. 
deffiesand  paths  leading  to  thoii  tabe^tin- 
1^  sixty-ibor  towors  built  of  hard  stone,  and 
wUeh  were  aU  constructed  in  one  ni|^t.  These 
towers  •men  in  a  short  time  c<nres«d  by  sx- 
tecti  snail  ftirls  oi  redoubts,  each  capidale  of 
oeotaiiiUDg  from  Anir  to  five  hundred  men,  and 
serving  to  support  the  troqu  he  employed  im 
tfkifr  diffioA  war&re,  now  converted  into  a- 
spedwB  of  regular  siege.  Having  in  this  ma»^ 
ncr  deiffived  Ae  Sooliots  of  aU  possibitity  itf 
tBectmg  sorties^  he  auecessivefy  attacked  cacA 
post  wA  a  body  of  troops  surpasnng  the  popu- 
lation ef  the  wh(^  clan.  The  Souliots,  driv^^ 
ftom  pest  to  post,  were  at  lengthy  in  the  month 
of  October,  shut  up  in  Mega-Sonli,  L^a,  and 
AgssoPaiaskevi,  in  want  of  provisionf  and  do- 
void  of'  all  kinds  of  resource.  At  the  cotn- 
nmictment  of  November  the  Calo^er  (monk) 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


31S  THE  IQNIAH  ISiatmS.        [CHAK,  tX. 

SHDWeU  thtt  chief  of -dv&reftublic*  pn^oaed  a 
ctpiiulatinft*.  through  'the-  jneans  of  which,  shut-: 
ting.himadf.iqD  in  AgiaiParaskevi  with  five  or 
six  hundred  brave  followers,  the  population 
then  concentrated  in  Meg^Sttuli  and  Laka  ob*^ 
tained  permiMion  to  retire  to  Parga.  This 
population  consisted  of  about  2000  combat^ts, 
besides. womeny  children^  and  the  old  nien  who: 
had.  been  able  to  escape  from  massacre. 

.  During'the:  eight  months,  this  regular  si^e 
had  lasted,  more,  than  one  haJfof  the  Souliot. 
clao  had  perished,  as  well  as  more  than  20,000 
Albanians.  AU Pacha,  who.was  desirous  e^tx- 
terminating  the  whole  dan,  vif^atedthe  .tai^ 
tulatioti,  and  caused  the  colatanito  be  attacked 
that  was  retiring  to  Parga. .  Butthe  brave  Sou- 
Hots  formed  themselves  ioito  a  square  biAtalian, 
mithe  cehtre  of  which  the^iplaced  their  fiitmliea^ 
and.opeued  thdr  way  through;  the  Ime  of  theur, 
aggnrssors,  .:to  whom  this  perfidy  cost,  more 
tiian-iooo  m^n.  .  Some  days  afierwaxds,  when; 
Samuel  was  ii^ofmed  that  the  greatest- part  of. 
his  nation  was  safe,  he  capitulated  under  the 
same  conditions.  .The  garrison  commeaced'its 
march,  and  he  him&etf  remuned  with  four  brave 
men,  whose  dames  are  not  preserved  to  bisioiy, 
in  order  to  deliver  up  the  stor^  and  amauiip-. 
tion  which  were  lodged:  in .  tlu  subterraoeoua^ 
vaults  of  the  fortress.    Having  delayed  this 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CBAP.'tZ.]         THE   lOHIAR  TBLAHDSt  313 

deUvery  for  some  hours,  he  at  length  entered 
into  the  vaults  together  with  his  companiona, 
two  chie£i  delegated  by  Ali,  and  a  great  number 
of  Albanians.  There,  resolved  not  to  survive 
the  ruin  and  future  oppression  of  his  country, 
this  hero,  worthy  of  the  happier  days  of  Greece, 
Uew  hinuelf  up.  The  Albanians,  irritated  at 
this  trait  of  desperation,  which  cost  them  the 
lives  o£  more  than  200  of  their  own,  nn  in 
haste  to  die  number  of  5000  to  attack  the  gar- 
rison which  had  not'  yet  arrived  at  Farga ;  but 
it  vas  in  vain,  they  were  again  repelled.  Ali 
Focha  caused  the  fallen  towers  to  be  rebuilt,  the 
cisterns  to  be  dug  a  fresh,  said  established  pali- 
sades; in  a  word,  he  fortified  these  rocks,  keeps 
up  a  garrison  there,  and  considers  this  point  a^ 
one  of  the  principal  bulwarks  of  his  dominions. 
Thus  perished  a  republic  which  the  whole  power' 
of  the  Ottoman  empire  before  had  been  unable' 
to  subject,  and  which  was  so  terrible  to  Ali 
Pacha,  that  to  this  day  the  very  name  of  th6 
Souliots  makes  him  turn  pale.  The  Souliots 
capable  of  bearing  arms  united  themselves  to 
liie  inhabitants  of  Agioi-Saranda  and  the  other 
Gredc  towns  destroyed  by  Ali  Pacha,  and  all 
together  formed  the  basis  of  the  Albanian 
l^pon  which  was  in  the  service  of  Russia  and 
France.) 
:  The  Chimariots  have  been  more  .Ibrtunate. 


soiizodbyGoogle 


314  THE  UUQAM.  nLAMDff.         [CKAP.  IX. 

BquiUy^iBdependeotastheSouliota  had  been; 
H»tmtimtaa^ttg  the  tribute  they  paid  to  the  Yidr 
of  Ben£»  as  die  Sornuu  depenctents  oa  the  iSand- 
giak  of  AvloDai  whou  this  Viat  had  sncseeded, 
they  bad-SHifaiBed  tiaenathts  againit  all  dw  at- 
temps  made  by  Ali  Pacbai  to  effect  a  lot^^ent 
aiaoDg  tbfwi^  The  geogn^cal  positional dicir 
country*  and  the  protectioa  of  the  kingdoaik  of 
Napleff*  in.  whose  service  they  kept  up  troopi,  as 
veU  as  ki  that  of  the  Septinsulu  republic,  which 
also  availed  itself  of  th^  aid  aad  co^operadoa 
in  case  of  need,  are  the  motivcB  which  have  most 
powerfully  contributad  to  frui^trate  the  views 
of  All,  and  to  peennt  him  irom  evenly  miitiag 
iaa  whole  forces  against  them.  Covered  on  the- 
N.  and  S-  by  the  dfstztiction  of  the  roads  lead- 
ing to  their  eountry,  in  the  place  of  ^ich  tfan^ 
hsve  left  no  other  than  narrow  paths  guarded 
by  fortified  posts*  they  had  besides  entrendied 
and  strongly  manned  the  only  defile  t^pniog  to- 
the  W.  of  their  country,  by  which  it  is  poasibfe 
to  reach  the  valley  ^  the  Chdydvis,  after 
crossiDg  the  Acrocerauman  mouBtaJos.  AH' 
Pacha  is  only  in  a  skuation  to  attack  them  bf 
sea,  and  for  this  he  requirea  a  stronger  amvy 
than  good  pdlcy  would  allow  hnn  to  poisess ;. 
.  sbioe  a  surprise  on  the  coast  wwdd  be  impanJ- 
ble,  so  well  is  it  guarded  on  the  three  or  four 
pointa  where  a  landii^  c^  be  attempted.    He 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


OUP.  ra.3         Ttt>   IONIAN   IBLANm.  SIS 

might  poisibly  attack  them  with  greater  faciKty 
1^  Avloaa,  availing  himself  of  the  Dukatis,  their 
enemies  j  but  he  fears  the  Vizir  of  Berat,  hit 
rival  and  secret  enemy. 

The  latter  Vizir  has  as  much  interest  in  flus- 
tsining  the  Chimariots  and  in  preserving  har- 
mony and  a  good  understanding  mth  the  Xonian 
B^ublic,  SM  AU  may  have  in  a  contrary  sense. 
Besides  the  motives  dictated  by  his  ambition, 
AH  Pacha  is  further  impelled  by  the  two  latter 
to  hate  Ibrahim,  and  to  seek  to  destroy  him. 
He  darei  not  attack  him  openly,  because  the 
Vizir  of  Berat,  in  this  case,  woidd  be  sure  to 
receive  the  support  of  that  of  Skutari,  and  a 
shock  so  severe,  by  awakeniog  the  attention  of 
the  Forte,  might  bring  down  total  ruin  upon  him. 
He  however  has  endeavoured  to  succeed  by 
strati^^m.  At  the  end  of  1807  he  attempted 
to  surprise  Elbassan,  confident  that  if  he  was 
once  master  of  that  place,  as  he  already  was  of 
Ocfarida,  it  would  be  an  easy  undertaking'  to 
expel  Ibrahim  &ota  Berat  He  therefore  en- 
deavoured to  effect  the  entry  of  a  number  <^ 
disarmed  soldiers  into  Elbassau,  as  well  as  chests 
*  oi  anoB  on  mules*  backs,  but  his  project  was 
ducovered  and  his  scddiers  cut  to  pifaces.  He 
thes  turaed  round  in  a  hasty  manner  on  Cbi- 
mara,  and  with  a  body  of  €000  men  attempted 
to  force  the  defile  of  the  Acrocerauoian.  moioi- 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


516  THE  lOKIAN  ISLAims.        [cHAJp.rc^ 

ttann.  The  Chimariots  were  not  under  arms, 
md  Jtt  this  post  no  otber  than  a  guard  of  30O 
nen  had  beeD  established.  Nevertfadess  this 
lundful  of  brave  men,  more  fortunate  than 
Xjconidas  and  his  patriots,  defeated  their  ag- 
gressoro  and  forced  them  to  retire,  after  losing 
ISOO  men,  in  great  measure  beat  down  under 
the  trees  and  rocks  which  had  been  prepared 
for  the  defence  of  this  new  Thermopyls. 

in  our  geographical  outline  we  have  already 
had  occasion  to  remark  that  Albania  extends 
to  the  S.  as  far  as  the  other  side  of  the  moun-  . 
tains  of  Souli,  thus  comprising  the  greatest  part 
of  the  ancient  Epirus..  This  peofde,  who  ia 
every  thing  differ  from  the  Greeks  and  Otto-^ 
mans»  may  within  themselves  be  divided  into 
two  great  clans.  .  The  one  which  stretches  from 
the  rivers  Bojanaand  Moraccia,  as  &r  as  the 
Stirnatza  or  P  any  asm  ;  an, extent  comprehend- 
ing the  vizirsbip  of  Skutari,  may  be  called  the 
Albano-Illyrian  clan,  because  the  people  iaba-- 
biting  it  are  a  mixture  of  lUyrians  and  of  Sda- 
vonian  colonies  who  came  to  establish  .them-< 
sdves  in  that  country.  The  other,  which  takes 
in  the  vizirship  of  Berat,  part  of  that  of  Joaiv 
nina,  and  the  Sandgiak  of  Delvino,  may  be 
called  Albano-Epirotian,  or  Greek,  because  the 
pet^le.dweUingin.  that  range  of  country,,  are., 
ori^lip^lly.  Epirots  or  Greeks,  from,  coloqies  oi. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


,:CHAP.IX.]         THE  lONUH  ISLANDS.  3|T 

■  die  Adriatic.  TTiese  two  great  tribes  or  clans, 
posseted  of  an  uniform  language  and  neaHjr 
similar  habits,  differ  considerably  in  thdr  man- 
ners and  character.  Whilst  the  Illyrian  At- 
banian  is  wild  and  unpdished,  the  Epiroti- 
an  one  is  comparatively  advanced  towards 
civilization.  As  more  immediately  connected 
with  the  sut^ect,  we  shall  proceed  to  give  a 
■descriptive  sketch  of  the  latter. 

The  Albanians  have  in  genend,  preserved  the 
military  dress  of  the  Romans.  They  vear  a  tunic 
held  together  by  a  sash  or  girdle,-  which  at  the 
-same  time  bears  their  pistols,  poniard,  and  two 
-small  cartridge-boxes  filled  with  ammunition; 
a^coat  of  mail  without  sleeves,  on  which  ga- 
loons  and  embroidery  have  taken  the  place  of  iron 
network ;  a  species  of  Doliman  or  hussar's  jacket, 
which  is  pendant  and  not  fastened  before;  a 
large  cloak  without  sleeves,  which  they  wear  at 
all  times ;  a  pair  of  narrow  pantaloons,  some- 
thing similar  to  the  Caramlla,*  introduced 
during  the  middle  ages  among  the  Roman  mili-. 
tary,  and  which  are  partly  covered  by  the  tunic ; 
buskins,  similar  to  those  seen  in  ancient  monu- 

*  Caracalls  were  a  species  of  puitaloons  used  by  tbe  Ger- 
mans and  Gauls.  The  Emperor  Marcus  Aorelius  Antonmus, 
son  of  Septimius  Sevenis,  was  the  first  who  wore  them,  and 
introdoced  them  into  the  aimies.  It  is  from  this  drctinututce 
.thatbe  was  sunwined  Carscalla.— Tk, 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


SIS  THE  IcmiAtr  IStAHDS.         [£6A».1S. 

tnents  representiiig  Roman  soldiers,  tied  to  the 
pantaloms  bj  a  leather  strap,  to  which  hang 
three  oniaiAents  formed  into  bunches  out  of 
gilt  silver.  Their  head-dress  consiffts  of  a  red 
skull-cap,  generally  envehiped  with  a  shawl 
more  or  less  rich,  in  the  form  of  a  turban,  and 
which  at  the  same  time  serves  for  the  purposes 
of  ft  knapsack,  a  handkerchief,  and  nightcap. 

The  Albanian  soldiers,  accustomed  to  the 
cold  temperature  of  their  mountains,  and  dressed 
in  a  cloak  of  some  considerable  thickness,  dread 
neither  cold  nor  heat,  which  they  equally  with- 
stand without  changing  their  cloaths.  In  th^ 
winter  wrapped  up  in  their  cloaks,  and  in  tht 
summer  extended  upon  them,  they  sleep  on  the 
hard  ground ;  they  sddom  take  pains  to  con- 
.  struct  barracks  for  themselves,  and  still  more 
rarely  make  use  of  tents.  They  are  extremely 
sober;  and  their  military  ration,  consisting  of 
two  pounds  of  flour  of  maize,  wheat*  or  buck- 
wheat, and  this  frequently  reduced  to  me-half, 
is  sufficient  fbr  them,  with  a  few  black  olives  6f 
pOchards,  which  they  purchase  out  of  their  p^, 
of  which  they  are  extremely  economical.  'They 
rarely  receive  meat,  and  still  more  so,  wiae. 
With  the  exception  of  some  rich  beys,  who 
dress  with  a  certain  degree  of  elegance,  the 
AlbuiiaB  soldiers  are  in  general  meanly  clad. 
They  wear  their  clothes  till  tliey  fall  to  pieces  in 


soiizodbyGoogle 


CBAP.  IX.]         rst  lOKlAK  nft.)LN08.  tl§ 

rags,  and  a  dirty  tunic  is  among  them  ft  sign  «f 
br»f«ry.  They  are  more  active  tiian  the 
Osmanlis,  or  cffiginal  Turks,  amoi^  whom  titey 
tnjoy  such  renown,  that  there  ia  not  a  pacha  ^ 
any  consequence  who  is  not  desirous  of  having 
aome  of  these  Amauts*  in  his  pay.  They  are 
in  general  brave  and  ready  to  run  to  danger, 
and  the  iear  of  death  makes  no  impression  upon 
them.  Amidst  a  mimber  of  examples  tendrag 
to  oorroborate  this  assertion,  the  Author  will 
only  quote  one  &ct  which  happened  in  his  own 
presence.  An  individual  of  the  Liapis  clan, 
being  condemned  to  death,  was  brought  out  i» 
be  conveyed  to  the  place  of  execution,  which 
Vas  situated  without  the  vaHs  of  Prevesa.  Be- 
ing  arrived  about  midway,  he  passed  by  a  large 
%-tree/— "  Why,"  said  he  to  those  who  con- 
ducted Ii^,  "  do  you  wish  me  to  travd  half  a 
league  further  in  the  hottest  part  of  the  di^  ? 
Can*t  yon  hang  me  here  ?"— This  &vour  was 
granted  him,  and  he  himself  pot  the  rope  about 
hiS'Own  neck.    A  few  hours  afVerwaids,  another 

*  Tha  AlbaBbms  amoBg  the  'Ottoin&ii  troops  are  known 
bjr  no  othor  lunae  than  tliat'of  Arnuta,  wlucli  »,  aa  befi»4 
Mtioed,  thi'One  thty  dietnaekea  bear  in  tbeir0im  laopiqgfe. 
The  Amaut  sgldkn  art  tH  preient  mote  etteemed  than  the 
jaalstarieB,  and  these  auxiliary  troops  are  furnished  by  the 
Iwyi  of  Albania,  who  recruit  men  and  carrj  on  the  trade  of 
kwdltti.— Tm. 


^oiizodbvCoogle 


920  THE  lOMIAH   ISLANDS.         [CKAJP.  IS. 

Uapis  passed  by  the  same  place,  uid  seemg 
that  the  clothes  of  the  deceased  were  better 
than  his  owQ,  with  the  greatest  indifietence  he 
began.to  undress  him,  and  exchanged  them  ibr 
hia  own  rags. 

The  Albanian  at^diera,  however,  have'  the 
defect  of  being  vain  and  presumptuous,  of  ext 
aggerating  the  recital  of  their  own  feats,  and 
even  frequently  of  boasting  of  ima^ary  vic- 
tories. The  title  of  honour  in  which  they  take 
the  greatest  pride  is.  that  of  Palikariy  which 
sjgn^es  brave.  With  r^;ard  to  the  tributary 
and  disarmed  Greeks,  they  take  delight  in 
f»Uing  them  by  the  appellation  of  Mori^  which 
is  synonymons  with  ^f>n»  (foolish).  In  their 
eiqwditions  they  have  no  idea  of  regular  disci-^ 
pline,and  even  donotknow  what  it  is  to  be  placed 
in  rank  and  file.  Each  troop  collects  around  its 
respective  chief,  and  fights  separately  from  its 
neighbouring  one.  They  usually  enter  into 
battle  with  shrieks  and  reproaches,  in  which  they. 
delight,  something  like  the  heroes  of  Homer,  and 
then  the  fire  commences  entirely  at  the  will  of 
the  soldiers.  Afler  the  battle  has  lasted  for 
some  time,  a  suspension  of  arms  usually  takes 
place,  when  the  invectives  and  reproaches  again 
commence ;  successively  afterwards  the  engage- 
ment is  resumed,  and  if  at  the  expiration  of 
some  time  neither  party  has  been  compelled  to 
7 

DiailizodbvGoOglf 


•eSAf.fl.J        Ta£  lOHIAH  nCAKDf.  Sfll 

retreat,  ihej  come  to  close  qunrtcrs  4nd  tnabc 
use  of  their  atim;aiis  and  sabrei.  Their  marches 
are  equally  as  diuwderly  as  their  order  of  battle, 
and  frequently  a  column  of  GOOOitten  oecupieaa 
Epace  of  ground  equal  to  five  or  six  leagues.  The 
usual  arms  of  the  Albanians  are  two  pistcds  which 
.  they  carry  in  their  sash  or  girdle ;  an  otagan,  or 
a  species  of  cudass  slightly  bent  fcvwards,  ike 
cutting  part  of  which  is  in  the  concavity  and 
something  res^abling  the  Harpion  of  the 
ancient  Greeks ;  a  sabre,  b»iC  backwards^  bung 
to  a  belt  and  placed  horizontally ;  and  also  a  lopg 
musket,  of  the  calibre  of  from  \  to-l-of  anounee. 
The  fine  arts  are  unknown  among  the  Alba- 
nians, and  the  mechanicid  arts  are  gener^ly  ex- 
trcised  by  foreigners.  Hiere  u,  indeed,  mi 
university  at  Jotmnina,  as  -well  as  some  learned 
professors,  but  it  is  only  fVequented  l^  Greeks. 
The  three  exclusive  profesuons  of  the  Atbaniaos 
are  those  of  shepherd,  agrieulturaUst,  and  war- 
rlac.  There  is  stUl  a  fourth  which  might  be 
added,  since  they  fi^ow  it  as  much  as  the  other 
three,  and  this  a  that  of  roMicr.  Iliis  trade 
is  to  them  a  kind  of  schooling  in  the  art  pf  war, 
whence  the  name  of  iUephtes  or  robber  is  by 
BO  means  a  reproach  among  them,  and  the  mos^ 
celebrated  chie&  of  banditH  tu-e  «ure  to  imUcc 
their  fortunes  and  arrive  at  honours,  in  tesd>- 
mony  of  which  we  have  ASk  Pacha.    ^%is  i4ca 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


SSS  THE  IONIAN   ISLANDS.  ^CBAP.  IX> 

is  SO  deeply  imprinted  among  them,  and,  the  e&- 
amplesare  so  frequetitt  that  an  AlbaiiiaD  c^this 
class,  when  asked  what  occupation  he  follows, 
will  gravely  answer,  ifXKi  tye  Rxif  rn;,  I  am  a  rob- 
ber. This  custom  is  not,  however,  general  in  all 
the  cantons  of  Southern  Albania.  TheLiapia,  in- 
deed, scarcely  follow  any  other  calling,  but  the 
Fhilates  have  very  few  banditti  among  them. 
The  Zagortats,  successors  of  the  Pelagonians, 
and  who  have  voluntarily  submitted  to  the 
Pachas  of  Joannina,  know,  nothing  of  brigand- 
age. Mild  and  hospitable,  they  have  preserved 
the  rigorous  manners  and  character  of  the  aur 
dent  Greeks  j  but,  although  the  fierce  and  tin- 
feeling  qualities  noticed  among  the  other  Alba- 
nians have  disappeared  from  among  them,  they 
are  not  the  less  brave. 

The  Albanians  usually  inhabit  houses  with 
.only  one  floor  in  the  country,  and  two  in  the 
towns.  Their  construction  and  distribution  are 
extremely  simple.  In  the  villages  their  houses, 
iHiilt  of  blocks  or  fragments  of  marble  so 
abundant  in  their  mountains,  have  only  the  four 
principal  walls,  the  interior  compartments,  when 
there  are  any,  being  fcvmed  by  thin  wainscot 
partitions.  Hieir  only  furniture  consists  of  a 
cofior  and  some  mats  on  which  they  sit  and  lie 
down  to  rest,  and  their  extreme  sobriety  reduces 
itbeir  bonsehold  utensils  to  a  very  small  number. 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


CHAf .  IX.]         TOE  IONIAN  1SLANDI.  8fl9 

Id  the  towns  the  lower  story  is  built  of  stone, 
on  the  level  ground,  almost  without  any  founda- 
tions, and  serves  as  a  cellar  or  warehouse}  apd 
the  upper  story  is  constructed  of  wood ;  ;but 
here  their  furniture  is  more  sdect,.  and  they 
even  b^n  to  have  a  taste  for  luxury. 

The  Albanians  are  extremely  frugal^  and  liv» 
in  as  simple  a  manner  in  th^r  houses  as  they  do 
in  the  camp.  Milk,  cheese  made  out  of  ewes- 
milk  and  extremely  salt,  bad  butter  and  always 
in  a  liquid  state,  very  little  meat,  black  olives, 
salt  fish,  and  eggs,  constitute  their  ordinary 
food.  They  never  eat  meat  unless  roasted,  and 
are  in  the  habits  of  dressing  their  sheep  in  an 
entire  state.  They  never  make  use  of  beef,  and 
even  the  Christians  seldom  eat. pork,  which  is 
extremely  rare  among  them.  They  do  not  make 
great  use  of  bread,  but  when  they  do.  It  is  un- 
leavened and  baked  under  the  a^es ;  but  in 
place  of  it  they  eat  thick  gruel  made.  of.  the 
flour  of  wheat,  buck-wheat,  or  maize.  :  When 
on  the  road,  they  are  still  more  abstemious 
than  in  their  own  houses.  They  catry  with 
them  nothing  more  than  a  little  flour  or  rice, 
some  olives,  or  a  small  quantity  of  cheese,  and 
this  sparji^  provision  is  sufficient.  Hie  ini 
babitwits  of  the  towns  have,  however,  partly 
adopted  ^e  Greek  mode  of  livings  andimalut 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


SM  ma  i«nA«  nLAHsofc      [cbar.  ix* 

uM  Of  more  delicate  dishes.  Wine«  which  i$ 
eKtreoMiy  good  in  the  Epims,  is  id  general  use  \ 
the  MuMulmaiu  do  not  abstain  fVom  it  more 
tbati  the  ChriBtlsns,  and  mare  druDkardB  are 
ftOt  fdund  OBKong  one  class  than  the  other. 
Even  All  Pacha,  uotvithstanding  the  ztiai  h« 
affecto  ibr  his  reli j;>on,  doeH  not  r^se  to  drink 
wine,  thou^  in  a  moderate  iManer}  and  to 
aroid  scandal  be  has  caused  it  to  be  prescribed 
far  him  by  his  physeian,  and  from  time  to  time 
be  has  the  prescription  reuewed. 

The  Alhanian*  have  an  extreme  paa^on  for 
Mtriic,  and  this  is  so  general*  that  not  a  tro<^ 
«f  soMiers  i»  to  be  met  with  that  is  not  provided 
with  its  niand<£oe  and  singer.  As  soon  ta  the 
Albiuiiatt  hM  finished  his  work,  he  begins  to 
play  and  ^ng  $  and  if  he  is  in  the  cftanp  and 
without  provisions,  ha  allays  bis  appetUe  and 
ArgMS  his  WMit»  and  hardships  by  this  diver- 
fflOQ.  He  is,  af  the  suite  titne,  the  composnr  of 
hiaawn  v«nte  aBd  notes  j  aad»  if  the  metre  i& 
unsvea  and  the  song  unmeaning,  the  music  in 
general  is  not  much  better.  This  consists  c^  a 
repetitvea  of  raoootonom  sounds,  whkh  ibcy 
Ati/tf  forth  by  striking  at  random  on  uncouth 
miind«Ifne  widi  their  fingers,  andacoompanyit^ 
A«se  sounds  with  a  rongb  or  bowling  voice. 
Tfe^  fesdneis  for  tihre  dance  is  equally  as  strong 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


«MAP.  »■]        nu  20KUN  IMJUnM*  99$ 

«B  their  pufion  fiv  music.  >it  their  exeeutiovi 
of  the  one  is  not  I«n  uacouth  Uwn  that  of  Uie 
oUier, 

The  Albsnianihepherds  id  gciheraU  knd  pw- 
ticularly  those  who  luve  charge  of  Ail  Faehn's 
numeroHB  floclcs^  change  their  dis^cC  tioo9i<41ng 
to  the  seaeoo  (^the  year,  The  stisnlity  of  tJmr 
mouotains,  which  produce  aotiiing  hut  fiir«sls'«r 
pasturage,  causes  their  flocks  to  constitute  (me 
of  the  jjriacipal  braaches  of  their  fiwiuBes  and 
B  great  number  of  persons  among  them  have 
no  other  richies.  In  the  winter  the  fltieks  pas- 
tui^e  and  fold  on  the  sea-side,  in  the  vicinity  of 
•tiiB  gulf  of  Arta^  uid  in  some  parts  of  Acar- 
nania.  At  the  approach  of  spring  they  are 
again  led  back  to  the  foot  of  Mount  Tsoumerlis, 
Merteika»  and  the  Findus,  In  the  month  of 
June  th^  are  conducted  down  to  the  plain  of 
Joannina,  or  into  the  valleys,  for  the  puipose 
ef  being  shoiUf  and  Uns  operation  constitutes 
one  of  their  prin^pal  feasts. '  After  the  shear- 
ittg-seaaon  the  Sodts  pass  the  remainder  of  the 
summer  on  the  hei^ta  of  the  above  mountains, 
and  at  autumn  are  driven  on  Mounts  Cassiope, 
OUchinio,  and  the  Little  Pmdua.  In  the  can- 
tons, iriiere  vegetation  is  more  abundant,  the 
Albanians  &Uow  the  jmrsuits  of  agricolture, 
mAre  espeeiatly  in  the  valley  of  ^e  Chelydnus, 
in  that  of  fhe  Thyamis,  in  tlie   vicinity  of 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


A36  THE  lOKlAH   UI.AKDI.  [CHAF.IZ. 

Delvino  and  Joannina;  and  id  the  beautiful  plain 
of  Arta.  Here  they  devote  themselves  to  the 
cultivation  of  wheat,  the  vine,  olives,  and  fruit- 
trees>  which  in  this  quarter  are  abundant  and 
productive.  The  Albanians  are  extremely  fond 
of  hunting,  and  give  themselves  up  to  this  oc- 
cupation during  the  cold  season  of  the  winter, 
when  the  labours  of  the  field  have  been  sus- 
pended. 

In  general  the  Albanians  are  of  a  high  sta- 
ture, strongly  muscular,  and  thin  waisted,  which 
is  occasioned  by  the  use  of  the  girdles  they  are 
in  the  habit  of  binding  round  their  bodies, 
-llieir  profile  is  handsome,  and  rather  prominent 
in  the  middle  of  the  face,  which  renders  the&- 
.dal  angle  nearly  right,  and  tends  to  form  the 
real  Grecian  features.  They  have  little  beard, 
and  the  mustachoes,  which  they  all  wear,  are  not 
bushy.  Their  colour  is  fresh,  their  physiognomy 
lively  and  animated,  the  eyes  expressive, 'fine 
-teeth,  narrow  forehead,  the  neck  long,  the 
breast  wide  and  elevated,  their  legs  well  made, 
but  thin,  and  the  calf  of  the  leg  not  very  stout 
llie  well-formed  structure  of  their  bodies  renders 
them  agile  and  good  walkers.  Their  character 
is  lively  and  gay,  but  at  the  same  time  hasty  and 
violent ',  and  this  latter  trait  renders  them  vin- 
dictive, and  in  some  measure  sanguinary.  Ani- 
mosities propagate  and  are  preserved  among  fi- 


soiizodbyGoogle 


CHAF.  XXO         THE   lOHIAK   ISLANDS.  HJ 

J 

mtlies,  and  even  pass  from  one  generatioo  to 
another. 

llie  species  of  feudal  dependence  introduced 
among  them,  and  which  tends  to  keep  tlieir 
country  in  a  state  of  anarchy,  has  given  here- 
ditary  chiefe  to  each  chin.  These  cbiefi  live  by 
brigandage,  and  mutually  seek  to  wrest  each 
other's  property  away:  the  remainder  of  the 
clan  follow  their  banners,  %ht  under  their 
mdea,  and  also  inherit  and  partake  of  their 
hatreds.  Thousands  of  tombs,  not  only  observ* 
able  in  the  environs  of  their  town's  and  hamletsj 
but  likewise  in  a  great  number  of  places  which 
have  been  to  them  fields  of  battle,  attest  their 
courage  as  well  as'  their  intestine  wars.  Th^ 
are  extremely  avaricious,  and  addicted  to  rapa- 
city. Hraice  do  they  consider  the  offices  they 
are  enabled  to  obtain  in  no  other  li^t  than  as 
the  means  of  gaining  money,  and  they  stop  at 
no  meanness  or  cruelty  to  effect  their  end. 

The  two  only  religions  acknowledged  in  the 
EpirusaretheMuwulmanand.Greek;  the  Jews 
are  tolerated  there,  yet  no  Latin  Catholics  are 
to  be  found  but  among  foreigners.  They  are, 
nevertheless,  actuated  by'  no  religious  ftnati- 
eism,  and  as  long  as  they  are  called  Albanians, 
the  religion  of  Christ  or  that  of  Mahomet  fat- 
nishes  them  with  no  pretexts  ibr  individual 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


SM  TBI  IWIAM  ISLAMSS.  {CBAT.tX^ 

quarrdf  t  iadeed  they  may  be  contidered  as  in', 
difierent  -with  regard  to  their  exterior  w(Hahip. 
Hie  greatest  part  of  th6  Mimulman  villages 
twn  DO  mbsqoe ;  and  the  meihberB  of  that  creed 
makt  no  more  difficulty  in  celebrating  £iater 
with  the  ChristialiB  thw  the  latter  do  to  take 
part  wit^  the  fortncr  ul  their  RhanaiBn.''  This 
akUllhreiKte  cMues  them  to  contract  alliuices 
affi<Mig  each  oUier  without  the  smallest  cdnside- 
latton  to  religipn  i  and  hence  ia  it  not  nre  to 
tee  Mussulman  and  Gredc  dueft  connect  them- 
selves by  a  double  alliance.  All'  in  general  faafce 
the  TuHes>  whose  eStminacy  and  incapacity  they 
demise.  "  The  OsmanUs»"  they  say^  *^  is  good 
jbr  nothing  but  to  eat  soup.-" 

The  Albanian  ttomen^  in  proportion,  are  as 
strongly  framed  and  of  at  ndiust's-oonstitution 
M  the  men.  They  help  tbem  to  till  the  ground, 
ftnd  fear  not  to  partake  widi  then  ift  the  dangers 
of  wan  The  severity  of  the  climate  of  the 
aoeuntaias  which  they  inhabit  prevents  them 
jnom  attaining  the.age  <^  puberty  ao  caily  as 
tiie  Greek  Women,  but  fyt  this  tftana  tilicy  re- 
tain their  beauty  and  fircahneaa  tnuch  long^. 
Theu  drees,  which  is  a  mikture  of  ttet  of  the 
Greek  women  and  Albanian  men,  U  ffMmed  out 
of  a  eoarae  texture,  generally  manufikctured  by 
tilBBuelvesjand  IB  thc«uneio 'winter  aacumm^. 
•7 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CUAP.TX.^  THE    IONIAN   ISLANDS.  329 

They  do  not  repine  to  sleep  on  the  hard  ground, 
nor  hesitate  to  go  out  bare-footed  during  the 
inclemency  of  the  season. 

The  Albanians  usually  have  only  one  wife^ 
they  are  not  very  jealous  of  them,  and  never 
shut  them  up.  Both  sexes  are  pasiionatdy  at- 
tached to  each  other,  and  nothing  can  overcome 
the  love  of  their  country.  Necessity  has  indeed 
compelled  the  Chimariots  to  go  and  serve  in  the 
kingdom  of  Naples,  but  they  never  would  be 
induced  to  absent  themselves  to  a  greater  dis- 
t&nce.  The  regiment  of  Macedonia  which  Fer- 
dinand IV.  had  carried  with  him  to  Sicily  en- 
tirely deserted  in  1808,  and  the  chie&  furnished 
the  soidiers'with  money  in  order  to  enable  them 
to  return  to  their  own  homes.  Hie  Souliots, 
ootwitiistanding  they  have  now  no  country  in 
Albania,  would  never  consent  to  withdraw  to  a 
greater  distance  than  Corfi].  This  love  of  their 
country  is  "so  strong,  that  it  is  not  possible  to 
prevent  them  irom  occasionally  making  an  ex- 
cuisioa  on  the  continent,  which  they  frequently 
do  without  permission ;  uid  indeed  it  is  almost 
cruel  to  withliold  them. 

The  wandering  race  known  in  France  under 
the  name  of  Eg^ptiens  and  Bohemiens,  or  gip- 
sies, in  Italy  under  that  of  Zingaru  atad  whom 
the  Turks  call  Tckutguenis,  are  extremely  nu- 
neroiti  in  Albania.    Between  AicHsio  and  Du- 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


SSO  TKE  lOKIAS  ISEAMIM.  [CHAP.  IX. 

tazOf  on  the  lea-side,  whole  villages  of  them 
are  to  be  seen,  and  in  the  other  parts  of  the 
country  they  are  to  be  met  with  ia  all  the  towns, 
^ere  they  dwell  in  the  suburbs.  Even  in  the 
town  of  Fremiti  a  great  many  are  settled;  and 
in  Joannina  their  number  is  rat^  at  2000.  Their 
ordinary  professions  are  those  a£  agriculturalists  , 
and  blacksmiths ;  the  latter  art  is,  in  &ct,  almost 
exclusively  exercised  by  them  j  and  it  is  also 
among  this  race  that  the  Turks  select  their  exe- 
cutioners. They  have  by  no  means  lost  their 
wandering  habits,  and  every  year  large  hordes 
of  them  depart  and  spread  themselves  in  other 
parts  of  Europe,  telling  fortunes.  Nothing  can 
equal  the  misery  and  filthiness  of  these  wretches, 
who  by  their  tawny  skin  and  the  traits  of  their 
physiognomy  are  distinguished  from  the  otlier 
people  among  whom  they  live-  Very  little  is 
known  of  their  language,  which  partly  resembles 
the  Sclavonian ;  and  less  respecting  their  origin, 
religion,  and  chiefs,  whose  existence  has  only 
been  discovered  by  a  &w  words  which  some- 
times escape  them.  '  Being  besides  despised  and 
cast  down  by  the  other  religions,  no  one  takes 
pains  to  examine  them  nearly,  or  to  ascertain 
the  particulars  of  their  history. 

The  Albanian  knguage,  which  hitherto  is  not 
a  written  tongue,  nor  possessed  of  a  known  al- 
phabet, is  entirely  di&rent  £rom  the  neighbour- 


.  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


CHAP.nC.3  THE  IONIAN   ISLANDS.  S31 

ing  onea,  viz.  the  lUyrian,  Turkish,  and  (zfede. 
It  contains  a  large  portion  of  French,  Spaniab, 
and  Italian  words ;  which  would  seem  to  justify 
the  common  opinion,  general  in  the  country  it- 
self, which  attributes  their  origin  to  the  rem- 
nants of  armies  belonging  to  the  Latin  Emperors 
of  Constantinople,  and  to  that  of  Roger,  King 
of  Apulia,  who  took  refuge  in  the  mountains. 
They  have  even  in  their  langu^e  European 
letters  which  are  not  found  in  the  Greek  al- 
phabet,  such  as  b,  c,  and  h. 

The  atmosphere  of  Albania  is  clear  and  the 
winter  severe,  owing  to  the  high  chains  of 
mountains  by  which  this  country  is  intersected, 
where  the  snow  frequently  remains  till  the  end 
of  the  month  of  June.  In  1S07,  at  the  end  of 
the  month  of  May,  the  Author  observed  snow 
on  Mount  Tzoumerka,  near  to  St.  Salvari. 

The  most  ordinary  productions  of  this  coun- 
try are  wine,  oil,  wheat,  and  other  grain,  cotton, 
cattle,  and  ship-timber.  Chimara  produces  no- 
thing but  wool,  a  small -quantity  of  oil,  and  oak 
bark  for  tanners,  furnished  in  abundance  by  the 
forests  of  the  Acrocerauuian  mountains.  The 
esport  commerce  which  Albania  carried  on  with 
Corfu  and  Venice  in  general  was  composed  of 
the  following  articles :  wheat  and  grain  of  all 
kinds,  cattle,  fire-wood,  essentially  requisite  to 
the  consumption  of  the  Seven  Islands,  which 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


3Sa  THE  IONIAN  IBLAXDt.         [CHAP.  IX. 

Stand  in  need  of  these  olgecta  of  fii^t  necessity  j 
oil}  honey,  bees* wax,  a  large  quantity  xff  excel- 
lent  tobacco,  botarga  *,  sardiniai,  or  pilchards, 
■M  considerable  portion  of  wool,  and  also  ship, 
timber,  which  is  conveyed  not  only  to  Venice, 
but  also  to  Trieste,  Ancons,  and  Sinigaglia. 
In  return,  Albania  receives  iire-arms,  nearly  all 
.from  the  manufactures  of  Brescia^  woollen  and 
cotton  caps,  partly  from  France  and  partly  from 
Italy ;  galoons,  notwithstanding  there  is  a  ma- 
nuiacture  at  Joannina ;  cloths,  almost  all  from 
Como,  ^^cenza,  and  Germany,  owing  to  the  in- 
feriority of  their  prices;  knives  and  other  h«rd< 
ware,  also  in  great  measure  furnished  irom  Get' 
many;  silks,  from  Lyons  and  Italy;  together 
with  spices  and  other  colonial  produce,  In'ought 
to  them  by  all  nations  tradii^  in  the  Mediterra- 
nean, and  particularly,  some  years  ago,  by  the 
French.  Since  the  French  revolutioa,  the  neu- 
trality of  the  Ragusan  flag  had  placed  nesriy  idl 

*  Sottr^  is  the  Italian  nsine  for  tba  orsriiim  of  a  fiih 
called  the  Bconmza,  and  a  variety  of  tbe  mullet  Bpecies,  more 
particularly  found  on  the  Qoa«t  of  Albania,  as  well  as  in  the 
gulf  of  Prereta  and  the  lake  of  fikutari.  Thb  fial)  is  fattened 
in  artifieii]  panda,  ftnd  at  a  ccrlain  senon  the  ovary,  which 
i«  C9f  tremely  iatga,  k  sxtnctcd,  aaltad,  w>d  Mad.  It  it  cob' 
ndered  good  eating,  is  simply  prepared  with  <m1  and  megar, 
or  dtron  juice,  Ijke  the  caviar  taken  front  the  sturgeon,  which 
we  obtain  from  Rusiia.  The  botarga  is  consumed  in  I^y, 
'  Md  in  aO  Ute  upper  part  of  die  Meditetmeea.— Tb. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP,  ni.7        THE   lOKIAN   ISLAITDS.  93d 

the  carrying-trade  in  this  quarter  in  the  hand* 
of  the  latter  republic. 

Arta  was  formerly  the  chief  emporium  of  the 
commerce  of  Albania,  and  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  merchandise  arrived  there  from  The*- 
saly,  Albania,  and  even  a  great  part  of  Mace- 
donia, through  the  fiiira  of  Alassona,  Servitza, 
Mavronoro,  Monastir,  and  Elbassan.  The  eK> 
port  trade  carried  on  by  Albania,  the  Epirua, 
and  Thessaly,  through  Arta,  principally  con^ 
sisted  of  grain,  dried  Tegetables,  nuts,  and  ches- 
nuts,  which  come  from  Thessaly  and  the  Epinis^ 
ship-timber,  from  the  majestic  forests  of  the 
IMndus  and  Acamania ;  tanner's  bark  ;  cattle  t 
raw  and  twist  cotton ;  flax  and  Morocco  skins, 
which  mostly  come  from  Thessaly  and  the  vici- 
nity of  Monastir,  though  flax  grows  in  great 
abundance  in  the  vicinity  of  Joannina }  wools,  • 
unwashed  or  raw,  caarse  cloths,  clo^s,  alagias, 
or  checks,  in  silk  and  cotton,  or  thread  and 
TOtton,  linens,  partly  from  Albania  or  the  ma- 
nufiicturea  oi  Arta  and  Joannina,  and  the  rest 
from  the  interior }  tobacco,  wine,  brMidy,  and 
gums,  gathered  in  Albania  and  the  Epiraa. 

The  import  trade  was  nearly  similar  to  that 
we  have  already  pointed  out,  in  addition  to  par- 
ticular artides  which  the  increasing  luxury  daily 
tendered  more  necessary.  Notwithstandit^  the 
Venetians,  whilst  masters  of  PreY«9a,  hwd  the 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


S3*  THE  lONliOI   I8I.ANOS4        ^CBAP.  IX. 

entruiQe'  «f  the  gulf  of  Arta  entirely  at  their 
disposal,  the  commerce  of  the  latter  place  was 
not*  nevertheless,  exclusively  under  their  con- 
trol. It  was  divided  with  France,  and  particu- 
larly the  port  of  Marseilles,  and  the  other  Ita- 
lian states,  as  well  as  Trieste,  also  partook  of  it. 
The  character  and  manners  of  the  Epirots, 
Thessalonians,  and  other  Greeks  inhabiting  the 
southern  parts  of  these  provinces,  as  &r  as  the 
Morea,  with  little  difference,  are  still  the  same 
as  those  of  their  ancestors.  The  Epirots  are 
now  as  brave  as  they  were  in  the  time  of  Pyr- 
rhus,  and  the  mixture  of  the  greatest  part  of 
them  with  the  Albanians  has  had  no  influence  on 
this  quality.  The  Thessalonians  likewise  are 
still  equally  as  good  horsemen.  The  Bceotians- 
have  the  reputation  of  not  being  very  much  en- 
lightened. The  Athenians  are  as  restless, 
changeable,  and  intriguing  as  they  formerly 
were ;  and  the  nomination  of  an  Archonte,  or 
Civil  Magistrate,  who  is  now  no  other  than  a. 
slave  under  the  rod  of  a  Turkish  Bey,  creates 
as  much  canvassing  and  noise  as  when  Athens 
commanded  the  Grecian  sea?.  The  rights  of 
hospitality  are  still  the  same  amovg  them,  and 
this  virtue  is  so  much  practised,  even  among  the- 
mountains  of  Albania,  that  a  foreign  trayeUer 
may  repose  at  ease  even  under  the  roof  o£  a^ 
chief  of  robbers.    Having  been  once  receive^ 


ioiizodbyGoogle 


COAP.  IX.]         THE   IONIAN  ISLANDS^  9S5 

among  them,  be  will  not  only  be  respected,  but 
he  may  also  rely  on  being  aided  and  protected 
in  case  of  need. 

llie  usages  described  by  Homer  are  never- 
theless more  observable  in  the  mountains,  and 
among  the  clans  which  have  entirely,  or  in  part» 
preserved  their  independence,  than  in  the  towns 
and  commercial  cantons.  In  Cbimara,  for  ex- 
ample, a  traveller  arriving  in  a  village  where  by 
any  title  he  has  acquired  a  right  or  claim  to  hos- 
pitality, on  being  received  into  the  house  of  one 
of  the  principal  inhabitants,  is  soon  surrounded 
by  thechieiBi  of  the  corporation.  Iftheweatber 
is  fine,  which  is  generally  the  case,  he  is  invited 
to  go  to  the  public  square ;  it  is  there  that  the 
old  naen,  who  are  the  first  to  speak,  interrogate 
him  respecting  his  travels,  the  events  which 
have  taken  place  in  other  countries,  converse 
with  him  of  their  own  intercourse,  and  what  has 
happened  among  themselves.  It  is  there  that 
they  exercise  towards  him  the  first  duties  of  hos- 
pitality, by  presenting  to  him  wine  and  fruits. 
The  hour  of  repast  being  arrived,  he  is  con- 
ducted to  the  house  of  bis  host ;  with  him  the 
principal  persons  sit  round  a  table,  whose  prin- 
cipal ornament  is  a  sheep  roasted  whole ;  and 
the  unleavened  bread  they  set  be&re  him  has 
been  made  by  the  mistress  of  the  house.  What 
the  Author  here  relates  of  the  independrat 
s 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


356  THE   lOKIAM  ISLANDS.  [CHAV.  IX. 

Greeks  he  himself  experienced  st  Drimades,  in 
the  fionily  of  Thomas  Vretto,  cousin  to  Coiint 
Gika,  and  in  a  hundred  other  places  of  the 
cantons  throng  which  he  travelled  alone,  and 
without  any  other  guides  than  the  inhahitahts 
of  the  country. 

The  Greek  women  are  not  much  restricted 
by  their  husbands,  and  tfaey  would  be  still  less 
so  if  the  fear  of  the  Turks  did  not  oblige  them 
to  use  precaution.  This  same  fear  compels  them 
carefully  to  hide  their  daughters,  who  in  general 
are  extremely  beauti:^,  especially  in  the  Epinis. 
However,  a  foreigner  who  by  his  mauners  has 
acquired  the  confidence  of  the  Greeks,  and  is 
introduced  into  their  intimate  societies,  meef» 
with  females  there  who  finely  take  patt  in  the 
conversation,  and  even  in  ibe  gam^s  of  which 
the  Greeks  are  fond.  Nevertheless  the  apart- 
ment in  which  the  women  carry  on  their  work 
and  attend  to  their  household  a£^rs,  and  which 
hu  retained  the  name  <^  gynekaios,  is  separate 
from  that  ot  the  men.  The  vexations  and  con- 
tinued grievances  the  Greeks  experience  from 
the  Tttrks,  when  the  latter  believe  them  rich, 
have  obliged  their  women,  paitieul^ly  at  Joan^ 
Bina,  to  adopt  a  singular  ^stoni,  dictated  by 
liicir  love  for  dress  and  by  the  reserve  to  which 
they  are  bound.  Hiey  ahrays  go  out  wrapped 
^  in  a  large  black  manUe  of  ctnrse  stuffy  anfl 


3,a,l,;.dbyG00gIe 


CBAP.  IX.]         THB  IONIAN   ISLANDS.  M7 

vhen  they  are  invited  to  a  party,  one  of  their 
female  attendants  carries  their  dresB  and  jenrels. 
Arrived  at  the  house  of  their  friend,  they  pasi 
into  one  of  the  rooms  of  the  gynekaios,  or 
'Woman's  apartment,  to  dress,  and  enter  the  sa< 
loon  in  brilliant  attire,  and  covered  with  jewels. 
In  the  streets  they  appear  with  their  faces  unco- 
vered, and  are  exposed  to  no  danger:  the  auste- 
rity c^  Turkish  maoaers  would  draw  down  the 
most  severe  punishments  on  any  man  who 
should  dare  to  insult  a  woman. 

The  Greeks  are  still  what  they  formerly  were, 
lively,  gay,  witty,  and  glided  with  a  large  share 
v£  perspicacity,  and  a  great  aptitude  for  the  arts 
and  sciences,  fiut  the  slavery  under  which 
they  live,  as  well  as  the  ignorant  despotism  of 
the  Turks,  has  caused  their  prudence  and  inge- 
nuity to  degenerate,  and  these  qualities  have 
often  been  replaced  by  deception  and  roguery. 
The  perpetu^  dread  under  which  they  live  has 
given  to  them  a  habit  of  dangerous  dissimula* 
tion.  This  is  not  the  first  example  of  a  similar 
modification  of  national  character  produced  by 
foreign  despotism.  Hence  is  this  not  to  be 
found  in  the  Ionian  Islands,  and  in  the  inde> 
pendent  cantons.  The  oppressive  acts  and 
grievances  of  the  Turks  have  also  prevented  the 
Greeks  from  bringing  the  manufactures  of  Eu- 
rope among  themselves,  which  many  of  them 


_,.,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


aaS  THE  lONUN  ISLANDS.  [cHAP.  IS. 

know,  and  have  perfectly  imitated.  "  Of  what 
avail  would  it  be  to  me,"  said  a  Greek  of  Joan- 
nina  to  the  Author,  "  to  establish  a  good  ma- 
nu&cture  of  cloths  ?  I  should  have  to  d^bnne 
the  first  outfits,  and  when  it  had  begun  to  work, 
and  to  reimburse  me,  the  Turks  would  take  it 
away." 

Their  ancient  superstition,  in  changing  its  ob- 
ject, has  not  abandoned  them ;  they  have  only 
mixed  the  ideas  of  Christianity  with  those  of 
paganism.  The  principal  temples  of  Crreece 
replaced  by  churches  or  chapels  are  still  places 
of  devotion  or  pilgrimage.  The  Epirot,  Ionian, 
as  well  as  the  Acarnanian,  who  once  careftilly 
deposited  their  offerings  in  the  celebrated  temple 
of  I^ucadia,  have  not  now  forgotten  this 
custom ;  not  a  monoxylon  *  passes  by  this  pro- 
montory without  making  an  oaring  of  a  ga- 
zetat  to  Neptune,  which  by  those  on  board  is 
thrown  into  the  sea.  The  Molosaes  and  Do- 
lopes  still  go  to  adore  the  Panagia-Fartbeni,  or 
Most  H<riy  Virgin,  in  the  forest  of  Dodona. 

*  Monoxylon,  as  the  Greek  vord  denotes,  u  r  boat  or 
canoe  hollowed  out  o!  one  solid  piece  of  timber,  and  partica- 
larly  adapted  to  those  narrow  seaa  in  which  iboals  also  are  fre- 
quent.—Ta. 

f  Gazeta  is  a  Venetian  halfpenny,  and  it  is  from  this  word 
that  our  term  of  Gazette  is  derived,  this  being  the  price  paid 
fiir  the  sheet  of  new*  ot^imU;  pubUifaed  at  Venice^— Tn. 


soiizodbyGoogle 


CHaP.  IX.]  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  339 

The  Miraiy  (Parcee),  or  the  Fatal  Sisters,  still 
continue  to  preside  over  the  life  of  man  \  nor  is 
a  child  carried  to  the  baptismal  font  before  a 
rich  present  has  been  o0ered  to  and  accepted 
by  them.  It  is  the  papa^  or  priest,  who  comes 
to  take  the  child,  and  who  had  been  present  at 
the  offering,  that  decides  whether  it  has  been 
accepted,  when  the  present  is  delivered  up  to 
him.  The  Kakodaimon,  or  evil  spirit,  is  equally 
as  terrible  to  them  as  ever ;  and  nothing  afflicts 
them  so  much  ds  wishes  of  happiness  and  the 
praises  bestowed  on  their  children,  because  they 
are  in  ftar  of  thereby  lighting  up  the  jealousy 
and  anger  of  the  evil  genius.  Bent  down  under 
the  weight  of  a  rigorous  slavery,  the  good  ge- 
nius has  lost  his  influence,  and  they  have  now 
only  to  apprehend  the  empire  of  the  evil  one. 
The  Greek  language,  adulterated  throughout  all 
Greece,  and  even  in  the  Seven  Islands,  has  been 
a  little  better  preserved  in  the  Epirus,  where  it 
is  not  so  overloaded  with  auxiliaries  and  foreign 
words  and  locutions.  The  pronunciation  is  there 
also  more  elegant,  and  the  language  more  re- 
sembles the  literal  Greek,  which  is  spoken  by 
almost  all  the  priests,  and  taught  in  the  schools. 
-  The'Moreans,  inhabitants  of  a  mountainous 
country,  and  in  great  measure  descending  from 
the  Achaians,  Messenians,  and  Spartans,  have 
retained  part  of  the  noble  pride  and  independent 

2    2 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


9*0  TRE  lOKIAN  ISLAHDI.  [CHAP.  IX. 

spirit  of  their  ancestors.  This  is  the  country 
least  subjected  to  the  Ottoman  empire,  and  the 
most  ready  to  seek  to  recover  its  liberty.  The 
Mainots  more  especially,  so  justly  proud  of 
having  preserved,  up  to  the  present  day,  the  li- 
berty  transmitted  to  them  by  the  Spartans,  are 
formidable  and  irreconcileable  enemies  of  th« 
Turks.  Intrenched  in  almost  the  inaccessible 
rocks  of  Mount  Taygetus,  or  Pente  Daktylon, 
and  still  better  defended  by  their  invincible  cou- 
rage, they  descend  info  the  valleys  bordering  on 
the  Eurotas  and  the  sea,  there  to  cultivate  lands, 
whose  harvest  the  Osmanlis  seldom  dare  to  dis- 
pute with  them,  and  at  the  first  signal  they  rush 
to  arms  and  pour  down  on  their  aggressors. 

Their  government,  entirely  republican,  ne- 
vertheless partakes  of  a  mixture  of  aristocracy 
and  the  patriarchal  form  of  government  Tlieir 
different  cantons  have  chiefs,  who  lead  them  oo 
to  war,  and  whom  they  obey  with  all  the  severity 
of  Spartan  discipline.  The  authority  of  these 
chie&,  however,  ceases  from  the  moment  they 
are  deemed  incapable  of  command.  The  civil 
government;  is  entirely  democratic,  and  public 
aSkita  are  discussed  between  the  leaders  and  the 
ancients  of  the  people.  Every  thing  that  bears 
the  name  of  liberty  and  equality  electrifies  and 
fills  them  with  enthusiasm.  The  hymns  of  the 
French    revolution  were   carried    among   the 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


CBAT.  IX.3  THE   IONIAN    ISLANDS.  A41 

Afoinots,  and,  translated  into  Greek,  are  still  to 
them  the  songs  of  patriotism  and  of  victory. 
The  Maino  country  is  guarded  by  a  body  of 
1000  men,  vhich,  similar  to  the  sacred  battalion 
of  the  Thebans,  roust  always  be  complete. 
This  corps,  continually  in  activity,  and  almost 
always  in  action,  encamps  or  bivouacs  both  night 
and  day,  observes  the  movements  of  the  Turks, 
attacks  and  destroys  those  who  pass  near  the 
fiontiers^  and  repels  every  invasion.  A  young 
Spartan  enlisted  in  this  sacred  battalion  never 
quits  it  but  to  descend  to  the  tomb.  Neverthe* 
less  an  old  man  is  not  to  be  seen  in  its  ranks. 
•*  Their  aged  soldiers."  they  say,  *'  sleep  under 
the  trophies  of  their  victories."  The  day  on 
which  a  young  Mainot  is  enrolled  in  this  corps 
is  a  day  of  happiness  to  his  &mily ;  even  his 
mother  ri^oices  at  having  .given  birth  to  a  son 
worthy  of  being  reckoned  in  the  number  of  the 
avengers  and  defenders  of  her  country.  This 
glorious  victim,  devoted  to  the  protection  and 
lafety  of  his  fellow-citizens,  is  carried  in  triumph 
to  the  camp,  where  his  relaUons  bid  him  an 
eternal  &rewell.  A  Mainot  mother,  similar  to 
lihe  Spartan  matrons  of  old,  would  not  survive 
an  act  of  cowardice  in  her  son.  "  But  this  mis- 
fertune,"  say  they,  **  happens  as  seldom  as  the 
coming  of  the  white  crow." 
The  vigilance  and  courage  of  this  illns^ous 


J.,r,l,z<»i:,.,G00gIf 


34S  THE   IQKIAV   laLANDS.         [CH&F.  IX. 

cohort  has  at  all  times  prevented  the  Maino  dit* 
trict  from  b^g  surprised  by  the  Turks.  Inca- 
pable of  flight,  its  resistance  always  a£brds  their 
fellow-patriots  time  to  arm  and  to  collect,  and, 
when  embodied,  the  Mainots  easily  drive  away 
enemies  whom  their  name  alone  inspires  with 
terror,  and  carry  fire  and  sword  among  the  sur- 
rounding .possessions  of  the  Osmanlis.  In  the 
year  1770,  when  the  Albanians  spread  them- 
selves like  a  torrent  in  the  Morea,  and  covered 
it  with  ashes  and  carnage,  they  halted  at  the 
foot  of  the  Taygetus,  and  dared  not  attempt  to 
force  its  defiles.  The  Kapudan-Pacha  who  re- 
pelled them  equally  desisted  from  the  too  pe- 
rilous undertaking.  The  southern  point  of 
Maino,  constituting  the  canton  of  Kolc^ythia, 
and  where  the  ancient  Psam8tos,-Komares,  Bou- 
lariaa,  and  Mesapiotis,  are  still  to  be  seen,  is  in- 
habited by  the  Kakovouniots,  or  bad  moun- 
taineers, more  ferocious  than  the  other  Mainota, 
and  addicted  to  piracy. 

The  Arcadians,  tolerably  independent  in  their 
mountaias,  are  still  devoted  to  a  pastoral  life,  and 
live  in  a  state  of  quiet }  a  great  number  of  the 
Albanians,  forming  the  remnant  of  the  expedi- 
tion of  177P,  have  joined  them,  and  adopted 
the  same  kind  of  life.  The  clan  <^  Lala  alone 
follows  the  occupation  of  robbing.  The  district 
pf  Acbaia  is  entirely  Tuined,  (tod  very  thinljr 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.  IX.]  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  S43 

peopled,  as  veil  as  the  north  of  the  maritime  dis- 
trict of  Elis.  Messenia  is  better  peopled,  and 
tolerably  fertile.  The  inhabitants  of  the  northern 
parts  of  Messenia  and  Triphylia,  constituting 
the  canton  of  Arcadia,  also  live  in  the  habits  of 
piracy. 

The  Morea,  notwithstanding  the  long  war  the 
Turks  and  Venetians  carried  on  there,  was  in  a 
much  more  flourishing  state  previous  to  the 
Russian  expedition  of  1 770,  so  badly  conducted, 
and  so  disastrous  for  this  unfortunate  country. 
Count  Orlow,  who  was  at  the  head  of  it,  com- 
mitted nothing  but  errors  there ;  and  after  im- 
plicating the  inhabitants  -by  inconsiderate  and 
inefiectual  promises,  he  was  compelled  to  aban- 
don them  to  the  vengeance  of  the  OttMnans. 
This  General  having  committed  the  grievous 
oversight  of  not  purchasing  the  succour  or  the 
inaction  of  the  Albanians,  or  in  other  words, 
ueg^ecttDg  to  excite  civil  wars  among  them 
which  might  occupy  their  attention,  ought  to 
have  attacked  the  Morea  byjthe  north,  that  is,  by 
Fatras  and  the  isthmus  of  Corinth,  in  order  to 
have  made  himself  master  of  the  passes,  and 
prevented  the  Albanians  from  entering  into  the 
codntry.  The  three  castles  of  Patras  and  of 
the  Dardanelles  of  Lepanto  were  then,  as  they 
noyf  ^tre,  susceptibly  of  a  very  slight  defence. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


S44  THE  IONIAN  IILAMDC.         [<!HA7.  CK. 

and  would  have  capitulated  on  the  fint  shdUs 
being  fired  into  them. 

It  is  indeed  true  that  it  would  have  been  ne- 
ceasBiy  to  have  employed  cannon,  since  the 
Russian  fleet  had  only  one  bomb-vesael,  whose 
mortars  were  on  board  a  transport  which  did  not 
come  up  till  towards  the  end  of  the  campaign. 
At  that  time  a  few  small  aimed  vessels  would 
nevertheless  have  sufficed  in  the  gulf  of  Le- 
puito  to  prevent  any  landing.  By  seizing  on 
the  isthmus  of  Corinth,  posBfusion  is  obtained 
of  the  two  defiles  through  which  alone  it  is'poa- 
sible  to  penetrate  into  the  Morea,  and  where 
100  men  would  stop  a  whole  army.  The  first  is  - 
the  pass  of  Soussa-Kavi  and  Kakiskalo,  and  the 
aecond  is  that  of  the  dervent  above  Miniez, 
where  a  guard-house  is  now  established,  and 
where  the  Albanians,  flying  fi-om  the  peninsula 
which  they  had  ravaged,  as  well  as  from  the 
troops  of  the  Kapudan.Pacha  sent  against  them, 
were  massacred*.     In  that  case  no  Turkish 

*  The  RuBsian  General  not  haviDg  purchased  ttte  ticntn- 
lit;  of  the  Albaiuaiw  as  a  preliminary  meaKurs  to  reader 
the  iuurrectiOQ  of  the  Morea  succesaful  and  thereby  break 
the  Turkish  yolce,  which  iras  the  object  ia  view,  the  above 
people,  eager  for  war  and  piilage,  haatened  to  avail  themBelvea 
of  the  pretext  of  religious  zeal  in  order  to  succour  aa  OttOr 
aaaa  ^ovince  tbreateoed  by  infidela.    Theae  Sfwntaiteous 


DiailizodbvGoOglc    . 


CKAT.IX.]  fHB  lOKIAH  ISLANDS.  ^45 

troops  vould  have  been  able  to  arrive  6:0m  Thes* 
saly  or  Albania;  the  insuirectioii  of  the  penin- 
sula of  the  Morea  would  have  been  complete 
and  successful,  and  its  conquest  soon  effected. 
Tliis  un£>rtunate  expedition  cost  the  Morea 
nearlj  800,000  souls,  which  were  lost  to  the  po- 
pulation of  the  country.  In  the  city  of  Tripo- 
litEa  alone,  after  the  carnage  spread  around  by 
the  Arnauts,  3000  persons  were  publicly  exe- 
cnted.  These  iatal  consequences  have  greatly 
di^i;usted  the  Moreans  against  Russia ;  and  if 
in  1805  and  1806,  when  tixe  occupation  of  the 
Seven  Islands  afforded  to  the  Russian  govern- 
ment the  greatest  fiicilities,  it  had  sought  to  ex- 
cite a  revolution,  the  inhabitants  would  not  have 
listened  to  its  agents. 

The  export  trade  of  the  Morea  ia  redu9ed  to 
B  small  number  of  articles,  the  chief  of  which 
are  the  following: — Currants,  the  principal  ex- 
portation of  which  ia  from  the  port  of  Fatras, 

risingi  are  not  without  eiiample  ia  Turkey,  *ad  are  even. 
founded  nn  principles  a£  the  Mussulman  religion.  The  Porte, 
who  had  at  first  approved  of  this  useful  zeal,  having  been  in- 
formed, after  the  departure  of  the  Russians,  of  the  massacref 
«Bd  devastatioiM  which  the  A  Ibanians  carried  an  in  the  Morea, 
M&t  the  Kapudan-Pacha  with  an  army  to  expel  them  and  to 
re-«atabliih  order.  It  was  then  that  part  of  the  Alhauiaw, 
pursued  by  the  irritated  iohabitaids  and  the  Turkish  troops, 
•ought  to  pass  the  dervent  of  Miniez,  and  were  there  massa- 


soiizodbyGoogle 


546  THE  lONUN   ISLAlflM.  [CHAF.  DK. 

and  the  amount  shipped  is  about  30>000  quintals. 
'Wines,  almost  all  of  the  quality  of  the  Malmsey, 
and  of  which  about  10,000  casks  are  loaded  in 
the  ports  of  Fatras  and  Malvana.  Goat-skins, 
the  produce  of  Laconia,  Messenia,  and  the  vi- 
cinity of  Fatras,  and  of  these  25,000  skins  are 
exported.  Tanner's  bark,  of  which  the  districts 
of  Maino  and  Fatras  furnish  10,000  quioUls. 
Vermilion,  equal  to  400  quintals.  Hare  skins, 
from  Corinth  and  Elis,  which  famish  20,000,  ef 
a  quality  very  much  esteemed.  To  the  above 
may  also  be  added  a  considerable  quantity  of 
honey  and  wax,  and  some  wool,  cotton,  and  silk. 
The  greatest  part  of  the  cottons  come  from 
Gastouni.  THe  Morea  besides  furnishes  ship- 
timber. 

The  imports  are  nearly  the  same  as  in  Alba- 
nia, excepting  that  a  larger  quantity  of  woollen 
cloths  may  be  added,  particularly  of  the  ordi- 
nary kiqd ;  also  clo^iks,  and  other  coarse  goods. 
The  ports  in  which  the  trade  of  the  Morea  is 
nsoally  carried  on  are  Fatras,  Koron,  and  Na- 
poli  di  Romania  ;  those  of  Vityfon  and  Mara- 
thonisi  serve  only  for  the  Maino  country  j  and 
that  of  Napoli  di  Malvasia  is  only  an  entrepot, 
or  touching-place,  for  the  trade  of  the  Levant. 
The  ports  of  Modon  and  Arkadia  are  of  no  im- 
portance; and  Navarin  is  rather  a  station  for 
naval  forces. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAF.  IZ.3         THE   IONIAN  ISLANDS.  94?J 

This  trade,  however,  such  as  ve  have  just 
described  it,   suffered  greatly  by  the  state  of 

znaritioie  ;war  in  which  France  and  Italy  had 
been  kept,  as  the  merchants  of  the  two  latt« 
countries  are  the  agents  who  chiefly  carried  it 
on.  The  occupation  of  ft-evesa  by  Ali  Pacha, 
by  making  him  the  arbiter  of  the  communica< 
tions,  and  causing  them  to  depend  on  his  po- 
licy or  caprice,  has  also  placed  great  obstacles 
in  the  way  of  its  prosecution.  At  the  present 
moment,  when  peace  has  re-established  com- 
mercial relations,  the  stagnation  under  whidi 
the  commerce  of  the  Greek  continent  through 
the  Ionian   Islands  has  so  long  been  placed 

.  ought  to  cease.  But  in  order  to  redder  it  ai 
flourishing  and  as  advantageous  as  possible,  it 
is  necessary  that  the  towns  of  Prevesa,  Bucin- 
tr6,  Gomenitza,  and  Vonitza,  should  be  re- 
stored to  the  situation  in  which  they  were 
placed  by  the  treaty  of  "ssth  March,  18OO.  By 
this  treaty  they  were  only  tributary  to  ^ 
Facha,  who  was  not-allowed  to  maintain  a  gar- 
rison within  them.  Then  the  commerce  of 
Upper  Albania  and  of  Berat,  released  from  the 
shackles  under  which  it  now  lingers,  would  again 
resume  the  road  to  6ucintr6 ;  and  that  of  the 
Epirus,  Thess^y,  and  part  of  Macedonia,  would 
again  return  to  Arta  and  Prevesa.  The  trading 
merchants  of  Alassona,  Metzovo,  Servitza.  Mav- 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


94«  THE  lOHUH  HLAimtU         [CHAP.  OE. 

ronoro,  Monasdr,  and  Elbassan,  would  bring 
down  to  the  above  ports  the  productions  and 
maou&ctureB  of  the  country}  ft  mutual  ex. 
ehange  fin*  the  products  of  Europe  would  take 
placO}  sod  Coriii  might  be  converted  into  the 
dief  emporium  of  this  advantageous  and  in- 
creasing trade. 


bv  Google 


CHAPTER  X. 

Roads  from  Bucmtrd  to  Berat  and  to  Joannttia. 
— From  Keracha,  Parga,  and  Prevesa  to 
Joannina. — From  the  latter  to  Berat  and 
Grevna.—From  the  latter  to  Monastir. — 
From  Berat  to  Kastoria. — From  Grevna  to 
Salonica. — From  Joannina  to  Laritsa,  and 
thence  to  Grevna,  Salonica,  Volo,  Zeitoun,  and 
Thebes. — From  Arta  to  Lepanto  and  Thebes.— 
From  the  latter  to  Corinth. — From  Patras  to 
Corinth,  and  TripoUtza. — From  Patras  to 
Tripolitza  through  Kariteni. — From  Patras 
to  Mistra,  Napoli  di  Malvasia,  and  Koron.-^ 
From  the  latter  to  Tripolitza  and  Patras, 
through  Kariteni. — From  Napoli  di  Romania 
to  Corinth,  and  from  Tripolitza  to  Corinth 
and  Mistra. — JWorfe  of  Travelling. 

X  HE  land  commuiiications  of  the  Ionian 
Islands  with  the  principal  trading  points  of  the 
continent,  and  particularly  where  the  iairs  are 
held  of  which  we  have  already  spoken,  are  those 
we  shall  proceed  to  describe  in  the  present 
chapter.    Corfu  communicates  with  the  neigh-, . 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


S50    ■  THE  lOKIAK  ttLASDS.  [cHAP.  S. 

boaring  continent  through  four  different  points, 
viz.  Bucintr6,  the  beach  of  Kerachaa  Parga^  and 
Prevesa.  The  first  of  these  points  affords  two 
interior  communications»  the  one  through  Ai- 
giro-Kastro,  with  Berat,  and  the  second  with 
Joannina.  Keracha  and  Parga  communicate 
only  with  Joannina,  but  Prevesa  also  corre- 
sponds with  Trikala  as  well  as  with  Lepanto. 

1.  From  BucintrS  to  Berat y  44  hours. 
From  Bucintr6  the  road  ascends  the  river 
Pavia  for  about  the  space  of  six  hours,  afler 
which  it  takes  to  the  right  up  a  divergent  de- 
clivity, which  we  aflerwards  descend  to  arrive  at 
the  river  Fistrini,  from  whence  we  reach  Delvino, 
seven  hours  distance  from  Bucintr6.  From 
Delvino  the  route  follows  the  road  of  Joannina 
for  some  distance,  and  after  travelling  three 
hours  we  reach  the  small  village  of  Nivitza,  near 
whichtheroadcrosses  a  small  river  jand  two  hours 
£irther  on  we  pass  the  Chelydnus,  and  ascend  for 
the  space  of  an  hour  the  opposite  hills,  in  order  to 
regain  J;he  road  from  Joannina  to  Avlona.  We 
then  turn  off  to  the  left  and  in  two  hours  arrive 
at  Episkopi.  Still  continuing  to  descend  the  Che* 
lydnus,  at  two  hours'  distance  firom  Episkopi  we 
leave  Argiro-Kastro  to  the  left,  and  two  hours 
further  on,  Liebovo  to  the  right.  After  travelling 
seven   hours  from  Episkopi  we  arrive  at  Valwa, 


soiizodbyGoogle 


CHAP.  X.]         THE  TOWIAN  ISLANDS.  351 

and  three  hours  afterwards  cross  the  Chelydntit 
on  abridge,and  proceeding  onwardsfor  two  hours 
i^e  reach  Tepeleni.  The  whole  of  this  road  is 
extremely  commodious  for  caravans,  and  even 
for  small  waggons.  From  Tepeleni  there  is  a 
bad  road  along  the  Vojutza,  by  which  in  eight 
hours  time  we  arrive  at  Kaminitza.  Thence, 
crossing  Mount  Chimara  by  a  path,  in  the 
course  of  seven  hours  we  come  to  Avlona.  At 
Tepeleni  we  cross  the  river  Vojutza,  and  taking 
to  the  right  proceed  along  its  banks  by  a  di£> 
£cult  way  which  anciently  constituted  the  de- 
files  (Sthena)  of  Antigonia,  and  in  three  hours 
time  arrive  at  Klissoura.  On  leaving  the  latter 
place  we  join  the  high  road  from  Joannina  to 
Berat,  and  in  the  course  of  12  hours  enter  the 
latter  city. 

2.  From  Bucintrd  to  Joatmina^  27  hours. 

After  leaving  Bucintr6  we  arrive  at  Nivitza, 
and  afterwards  at  the  bridge  of  the  Chelydnus. 
On  reaching,  however,  the  road  of  Joannina  to 
Argiro-Kastro,  we  turn  to  the  right,  and  at  the 
end  of  an  hour  again  cross  the  Chelydnus,  and 
ascending  for  the  space  of  an  hour  a  tolerably 
■wide  valley,  we  meet  with  Delvinaki.  From 
the  latter  to  Jarovina  the  distance  is  two  hours, 
and  the  road  leads  over  a  woody  divergent 
ridge.    We  then  descend  the  valley  of  Jarovina 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


SSi  THE   IONIAN   ISLANDfl.  [cHAP.  & 

during  the  space  of  two  bours>  in  order  to  reacb 
the  river  Thyatni9>  over  which  we  pass  on  a 
bridge,  and  follow  its  course  for  two  hours, 
when  proceeding  down  the  left  bank  we  arrive 
at  a  han.  Here  the  road  leaves  the  river  and 
asceods  by  a  difiicult  way  along  a  water-course 
to  the  village  of  Dzidza»  which  stands  at  two 
hours  distance.  After  passing  Dzidza  we  tra- 
verse a  valley  without  any  outlet,  in  which  is  a 
lake  believed  to  be  a  subterraneous  discharge  of 
the  Acheron,  and  after  travelling  four  hours 
more  we  reach  Jofumina.  The  above  road  is 
tolerably  convenient. 

3.  From  Keracha  to  Joannina,  labours. 
Landing  from  Coi-ftj  on  the  beach  of  Keracha, 
which  is  three  hours'  distance,  we  iind  a  ha$ 
bearing  the  same  name,  and  situated  at  the  foot 
of  the  small  town  of  Konispoli.  After  passing 
the  han  of  Kecacha,  the  road  for  some  distance 
leads  over  a  plain,  after  which  we  ascend  to  the 
left  towards  Mount  Moutzkeli,  at  whose  base  is 
situated  the  small  town  of  Philates,  chief  place 
of  the  canton  of  the  latter  name,  and  also  called 
Tzamouri.  This  place  stands  at  six  hours  dis- 
tance from  Corfu.  On  quitting  Philates  by  a 
road  kept  into  lerable  repair,  after  travelling 
eight  hours,  and  crossing  several  rivulets  whose 
waters  unite  with  the  Thyamis,  we  come  to  thf 


J.,r,l,z<»i:,.,G00gIf 


CRAP.  X."]  THE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  ASS 

village  of  Arkovita.  From  this  place  (he  road 
rgoins  the  Thyamis ;  and  after  travelling  an 
hour  and  a  half,  we  cross  the  latter  river  on  a 
bridge  near  to  Raino.  From  the  latter  place, 
coasting  along  a  precipice  at  the  bottom  of 
which  flows  the  rivulet  of  Bonila,  we  approach 
Velchista,  which  is  at  the  distance  of  an  hour 
and  a  half  from  thence.  From  Velchista,  by 
a  stony  and  unequal'road  for  about  two.  hours, 
and  good  during  the  space  of  two  more,  we 
enter  the  city  of  Joannina. 

4.  JVwn  Parga  to  JoanmnOf  17  hours. 
From  Parga  we  ascend  to  the  N.  by  a  bad 
road,  and  cross  several  water-courses,  in  order 
to  arrive  at  the  small  town  of  Margariti,  which 
is  three  hours  distant.  From  the  latter  pkce 
we  traveVto  the  N.  E.  during  three  hours,  and 
over  a  road  equally  difficult,  and  then  arrive  at 
the  town  of  Faramithia.  From  the  latter  place, 
constantly  in  the  same  du-ection,'we  travel  over 
five  hours  of  unequal  and  mountainous  road 
before  we  come  to  the  village  of  Defvignano. 
Hence  we  ctoss  over  several  valleys,  and  at  the 
end  of  three  hours  we  enter  the  plains  near 
F^tilepti ;  and  in  three  hours  by  a  handsome 
road  arrive  at  Joannina. 


soiizodbyGoogle 


at  w*  tmA»  (P4w»-     {?»«.  *• 

.  At  fffetn  '▼«  wit>wk  OT  (lis  0Uf  w  Ar  M 

ffiMiliW  fe^ng  M  ftf  «»  J«!MW»,  »P  few  llWim' 
IH  Kj|M{iM^«s,  Mly  thrss  tosrj  ^t«|)«,    TN 

^  «f  (Its  JJre  WHk.  ft  PsntoWirewH.  ia 
H>iFe?  (lews  fiifthiB- «!,  »nd  frsBi  »hi»w  it  r«« 
quires  four  hours  to  itt^  (be  bfs  pf  St.  J)t, 
metri,  and  from  the  latter  han  to  Joanuim  we 
travel  thrae  hovn  more  over  phuus. 
.  Ikf*  if  Jfilf.  ioireyfif ,  «BP^r  rsi^,  \f^tk  is 

4«t  IM<.a.<>4  w!y  4«!w>  v;  «)  |i<fflia'  tnscttiag. 
ff»m  Prsvsf»  w«  KosesS  t«  ^  rwm  ef  nicer 
g9^  vlmji  mi  onb'  p°«  k«ur  OMist-  Vnm 
A«e  fiMA  v«  (rayf}  ^r  >)i>iin  PR  t»  iama, 
nd  fioD  tJMF;  tv^a  IWBfl  VIQf«  «p  ttw  vjllgge 
^  Ifipt.  Htii«ted  «p  ( Tiym  wftiob  M»  i«t<>  tiia 
i^mri),  M*i:  tsmmg  Urn  we  tsteg  i«te  s 
ve»d.  in  t^f  nitjfUs  of  whisi)  is  •  Uke  faUM 
Mslsnimeti  sqiitsn  ceming  gut  ef  tl^e  wnd 
•t  fomr  liRPFi  iittinm  &gpi  Uph.  we  vsw  tiM 
iiv«r  KsugoiiH  OS  »  bridge,  aad  tima  liaura  «£ 
t»Fw«d>  amv»  «t  Feidtrfhrcaiit,  ^rbqn  «* 
join  the  high  road. 

It  is  irom  Joannina  that  all  the  caravan-roads 
imie ^hicblead  to  EUMssag  through  Bent,  to 


3oi,z.dbvGoogIe 


CHAS.  1^0  ^BiB  IONIAN   tMANSAi  JU# 

ftfionaabu,  Solonica*  Larissog  atid  Zeit(Hu^  and 
from  thence  to  Athetu  and  into  th«  Mofw. 
From  Art*  tte  roads  l«ad  to  SMofw*  Z«itoUA» 
Atltens,  »id  Patras.  We  shaiU  cxwunenoo  b;r 
the  first. 

6.  Trom  JosrminM  to  Berate  3?  boun, 
Vsom  JoonBina  we  travel  on  for  tv&  ho^t 
towards  tbe  N.  W.,  descdiidin^  ^oeg  tibe  mar* 
{ia  of  tJje  lake  in  o^der  to  sirivc  at  tbe  tuai  of 
l^teo^  where  we  cross  tbe  lake  oq  a  \da%  pier» 
We  condnue  to  descend  for  the  st>aee  el*  two 
hours  along  the  discharge  of  the  lakei  af^ 
which  we  ascend  towardu  the  N-  ia  otdst  to  ar* 
rive  at  a  hat)  Vhkh  u  six.  hours  distant  fi-oiti 
JoaneisB.  On  leaving  this  han  we  travel  on  for 
the  space  of  two  hours,  and  reach  the  villa^  of 
Raveniaj  after  paaaing  several  water*courses 
which  go  to  tbe  N.  towards  the  Vojotza.  De- 
paitiDgfrom  HavHiia,  w6  pass  though  AU(^er, 
and  at  the  eod  of  four  hours  arrire  at  the  small 
town  of  O^nttza.  From  the  latter  place  we 
descend  into  the  valley  of  the  Vqjutza,  which  we 
cross  on  a  stone  bridge,  at  an  hour'Vdistance  fi-om 
tiie^^vbtow^.  After  passing  the  liver  KDd  (vo- 
«eediog  by  a  dervent,  in  the  course  (^  two  hditn 
ve  vrive  at  tiie  ban  of  Terri,  sitaatttdneartbd 
iMrginofthertver.  Ilireehoursafterlfiisibgdw 
^  oC^Ani  VPB  repaaf  tilM  Vtyiits*  dii  a  Mm«4 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


356  THE  IONIAN  ISL&NDr.  [{»iAR.X; 

bridge,  and  two  hours  aftfrwards  approach  th$ 
small  town  of  Fremiti.  We  a  third  time  cross  the 
V<:>jutza>  and  descend  along  its  banks  for  the 
space  of  six  hours,  in  order  to  arrive  at  KIi»- 
soura,  where  the  river  turns  to  the  left  towards 
Tepeleni.  Here  the  good  road  ends,  and  the 
remtuning  part  as  far  as  Berat  is  more  difficult. 
From  Klissoura  we  ascend  the  western  declivity 
of  Mount  ImoUka.  The  distance  is  two  hours 
to  the  han  of  Jepovo ;  two  from  thence  to  that 
of  Vinolu ;  three  from  the  latter  to  the  han  (hP 
Ali,  in  passing  Bossi ;  and  one  from  hence  to 
the  han  of  Ibrahim.  From  the  latter  place  we 
descend  during  the  space  of  four  hours  through 
the  valley  of  the  river  Mavroner6,  in  order  to 
arrive  at  die  river  Kavroni,  and  an  hour  after- 
waitls  we  alight  in  Berat. 

AH  the  roads  leading  from  Joannina  to  Mace- 
donia and  Thessaly,  either  towards  Monastir 
or  Salontca,  or  towards  Larissa  and  Zeitoun, 
pass  through  Metzc^vb.  The  first  afterwards 
pass  by  Grevna,  and  the  other  by  Trikala. 

7.  From  Joannina  to  Greima,  37  hours. 
On  ^quitting  Joannina  we  pass  through  Bonila 
and  Bourkoumadi,  and  proceed  on  along  the 
l^e  of  Joannina  as  &r  as  Janicha,  which  is  at 
three  hours'  distance.  We  then  cross  over  a  di^ 
ve^ent  ridge  of  the  Hndus,  and  arrive  at  ^ 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.  X.J  ^^B  lomJiX  I4LAHIM.  S5T 

two  hans  of  Baldona  and  the  Kira,  atuated  at 
half  an  hour's  distance  one  from  t^  other,  and 
at  five  from  Joannina.  We  then  asoend  foran 
hoUr  along  the  right  bank  of  the  Arachtus,  as  fia 
t»  the  hari  of  the  Roses,  whence  it  is  three  hours', 
distance  to  Dervendika.  Here  we  cross  the 
Arachtus  and  afterwards  ascend  its  coarse  on 
thei  opposite  bank,  during  a  space  of  two  hours, 
as  &r  as  Poumari.  From  the  latter  place  we 
ascend  the  Findus  during  three  hours,  and  ar^ 
rive  at  Metzovo*  a  town  containii^  about  lOOCk 
houses,  and  situated  on  the  declivity  (^  a  moun« 
Um  which  commands  the  sources  of  the 
Arachtus,  Feneus^  Haliacmon,  and  the  Vcgutza; 
On  leaving  Metzovo  we  traverse  the  mountain 
of  this  name,  and  at  the  expiration  of  finir 
hours  arrive  at  the  village  of  Gattaro,  situated 
at  the  source  of  the  Venetlko,  or  Haliacmon. 
Afterwards,  descending  by  the  course  of  this. 
river  and  passing  it  several  times,  in  the  space 
of  two  houn  we  come  to  Krama,  in  two  Ikmits. 
to  Erkinia,  and  in  three  to  Ghergiades.  There 
we  <^o8s  the  Venetiko  on  a. bridge,  and  after 
travelUng  two  hours  in  the  plains  we. arrive  at 
Grevna.  At  two  hours'  distance  -to  the  W.  of 
Grevna,  is  the.  small  town  ctf  Mavronoro,  where 
very  considerable  Airs  are  held. 


3,a,l,zt!dbvGb0glc 


fllf  19»  MMAw  nuutu*       iettOi.  x. 

T^Tt  ut  twwnmds  leading  frg^  oae  of  dws» 
dtittto  tJiiB  cthei,  the  oae,  wikiah  istibotcftiw 
(!tn«Bi>f  pKMa  thMogb  Statnte  ;  and  thv  oAer, 
■me  dificidfe,  paaaas  b)r  KirteriR. 

Bjr  tbe  fialt  ffam  GreinM  wk  90  duough  Ar. 
^ottdBy  nd  in.  foor  han^  tii«tv  after  tEBv^ing 
owr  tte  pUkuv  w»  cone  to  tfremMrgiii'  of  th* 
ibier  InichtBi^  v^h.  «e  cross  «■  a  bn^;e,  sad 
thai  SEK  ^  an  benr'a  distaKR  fiwm  tb&smaft 
iawnof  SiatiBta.  On  se«tiiig) (m« frcaa tfae  Ist^ 
|)ir  place  we  go  across  tfaa-  mountaim  tkroag^ 
Kanfjpnf°*  a^d;  Kixpeai,  aiul  m  uwn  Iich»» 
tnteitKailM.  Fnomdietattw  plBC»t«tfaeiiiH^ 
fiown  of  floBiae.  or  VhiiariiM  tb8>  dtetaMCe  ia 
dgiBt  houaS}.  and  tbence  to  Moaaitki,  sevenu 
Tha  fluU  toivD  of  Mi^aiwo  vfaere  tke^  ftiva 
aie  heUy  is  four  bauratatili8>K.  of  Mbnastir. 

Tbe- other  xead  is  oofy  cgnali  to  34^^  kottn. 
Fwaa  Gievna  tbreugb>  Arckcuda,  ZaveK^  and 
Tmficzista,  ia  Awf  beunr*'  Srav^Bg  bvep  tbs 
plainsr  w«  rea^  iL^ittbista,  a«d  from  this^  plaee 
Ifa-oigb  Knbadn.  come  to-  the  bndgei  «f  Isi- 
oboii ;  tfte  distance-  is  tbi w  boors  aad  also  aver 
phuiK  iFioin  lAtt  ktan-  biii^  ta>  Kmiomtt  kg 
going  round  the  Ibks^  tha  distaaaeis-  tbne  b^Kra 
and  a  half.  From  Kastoria,  through  the  moun- 
tamSf  in  an  hour  and  a  half's  time  we  coqie  to 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


Vizani,  in  four  to  MfUcala,  and  in  one  and  a  half 
to  I%ifurina.  Before  arriving  at  the  latter  place 
■we  cross  fftg  rivfer"  Viatntza. 

^.-   Aaf^tAi  rma  J¥m  tU'ett  t<i  KAi!t6j4iti 

"Ilie'carav'ans&elbngi^ngfofh^fairsdfElbasaari 
pass  C^rdugR  Berat^  or  t%rbugli  Oc^ndtf,  id  did- 
der fd  drnVe  at  Sato'niica  and  Monastif.  '  FtoA 
Berait  in  ascending  along  t^e  ttoiaeii'  oT  tne 
j^psus  ot  Kavroni,  in  ^~r<^  Aours*  finie  -w'i  cbnie 
to  Kusbvitiza ;  irdtn  ^ftnce  we  proceed  to  rrr^ 
niak  ai  distance  of  ^'ree  Koiiri,  ta  Dubrin  in 
four,  to  Dussarli  in  six^  and  to  Noskopou,  wHicfi 
&  fliCuated'  near'oii^  of  tTie'  sources  of'^he' Apsua, 
in  ^re^'  Kours.  On  leaving  Nosldpoli,  we  tia- 
verse  Mount  Kl^ol'onias,  and  in  {fie  course  of 
four  hours  arrive  at  Gortza,  afterwards  at  ^m, 
uid  next  Sapundi-Kuprij  which  dis^nce  is  per-r 
£>rme(f  in  seven  hours.  TVe  tlieh  procee<f  to 
jSilcluta  ift  two  fidura,  to  l^ivani  in  /our  aiid'  a 
tiiatt,  and  to  I^stbria  in  fwo.  t'rom  Oclirida  to 
Agi'd-Naum'  th^  disfiance  is  six  hours,  and  from 
thence  to  Gortza  two.  The  wtiofe  extent  of 
this  road  is  equal  to  33^  hours.  From-  Ochrida 
the  travelling  is  three  hours  to  Resna,  ibur  to 
{he  C^ajani  ban,  and*  ttiree  to  Klonastir.  'this 
road  is  extremely  btkd'. 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


p60  TH£   IONIAN  ISLAMpa.  [CBAP.  Xr 

10.  From  Grevna  to  Salomca,  32  hours. 

In  proceeding  from  Grevna  we  reach  SiatisUt 
in  five  houri  as  before  mentioned.  Fromtheoce 
following  the  heights  stretching  along  die  left 
bank  of  the  Zndge-Karasou,  we  travel  on  nx 
hours  to  Kozani,  and  thence  five  to  Seilji.  On 
quitting  the  latter  place  we  descend  to  the 
plains,  and  after  passing  the  Vistritza,  in  ux 
hours  arrive  at  Veria  or  Karaveria.  From  the 
latter  place  to  the  bridge  of  the  Vardar,  the  dis- 
tance is  five  hours  over  plains,  afterwards  three 
ito  Gondogrou,  and  two  through  Iiq>U  to 
Salonica. 

There  is  another  road  equally  travelled  l^ 
the  caravans,  and  particularly  by  those  going  to 
the  &irs  of  Servitza,  and  which  is  performed  in. 
only  28  hours. 

From  Grevna  we  arrive  at  Servitza  in  seven 
hours,  over  a  champaign  country.  On  leaving 
the  latter  town  and  proceeding  along  the  left 
bank  of  the  Indge-Karasou,  in  the  course  of 
five  hours  we  come  to  Egribudgiak,  and  in  li 
to  the  bridge  of  the  Vardar. 

11.  From  Joannina  to  Larassa,  40  hours^ 
From    Joannina  we  come  to   Metzovo,  14 

hours  distant.    On  quitting  the  latter  place  the 
road  proceeds  up  the  Findus  Mountains  towards 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


•HAr.X.3  THE   IONIAN  IU.AND».  961 

the  £.,  and  after  crossing  two  sources  of  die 
Feneus,  and  passing  by  a  han,  ve  arrive  at  die 
han  of  Malakastd,  four  hours  distant  from  Met- 
zovo.  We  afterwards  descend  along  the  left 
bank  of  the  Peneiis,  in  order  first  to  arrive  at  the 
han  of  Mokossi  and  then  at  that  of  Koukoulios, 
seven  hours  from  Metzovo.  After  crossing  the 
Feneus  we  come  to  Kastania,  and  thence  to  ahau 
near  a  dervent,  situated  at  an  hour  and  a  half's 
distance  from  Koukoulios,  and  the  same  from' 
Kalabaki.  We  repass  the  Feneus  in  order  to 
arrive  at  the  latter  town ;  after  which  we  follow 
the  course  of  the  river  for  an  hour  and  a  hal£ 
and  afterwards  leaving  it  to  the  S.,  where  it 
takes  a  great  bend,  in  two  hours  and  a  half  we 
enter  Tnkala. 

From  Joannina  there  is  a  direct  path  leading 
to  Trikala  in  19^  hours  by  the  following  route: 
to  Janicha,  three  hours ;  to  the  faan  of  the  Kira, 
two ;  to  the  dervent,  seven ;  to  Kalavites,  two  ; 
Kalabaki,  one  and  a  half  j  and  to  Trikala,  &ur. 
From  Trikala  we  descend  along  the  Feneus, 
and  in  two  hours  time  arrive  at  Kourbali ;  thence 
we  reach  Koukoutos  in  two  hours;  and,  passing 
through  Siouti  in  two  more,  we  come  to  the 
small  town  of  Zarko,  and  two  hours  afterwards 
toKoutchoukevo,  where  we  repass  tlie FeneUs ; 
and  from  thence  in  four  hours  we  reach  Larissa, 
This  road  is  chiefly  over  a  flat  country.       '  .  .; 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


>S.  Pram  Lurmd  to  Grevnei  2&'  hovrst 
turn  LmUna  we  pnxmti  to  A«  N.  tettail 
yUni  ia  i»S«r  t»  inrtye  f  ifrnito,  cBSfant  <««» 
b0*»  and  «  half.  Fraitt  flien^e,  ftdlAwiA^ftt; 
«n8t  <»f  (he  biHflf  ift  fi(%  hmrr^  ire  irr^  A 
Xiini!«si,  aad  in  oBe  iMtc  at  Alassdiia.  Oto 
Iwtiiig  ike  latter  ptece  wc  cross  Moffiit  Ktdt' 
ehiovOf  M(d  ifl>  s^eil>  htiata-  alight  lit  Dotfihi^t^ 
Snm  iMnce  M  FMIi  is  (#0  hoars  and  x  Kalf; 
Uf  Gbevgiades-  two  bottr?  iHore,  afld  tit^  sstttvtf 
a)ss>  JO  Gjevna.  From  Odmiiriizai  ffle're  it 
anatfvei'  feleratiljr'  codvenintt  Knd'  r«adi»g  ti* 
Valawicihti  iff  five  h«ui«,  and'  (H  SaftCaki'  itf 
(Wea.. 

13'.  JV«M-  Lerissa  t»  Saiadcoi  *l-it  AMnr.' 

Two  roads  are  found' here-.  ThaeofAe'iair*' 
vsns  passes  through  A&ssona^  af  eight  hourS'Sd^ 
a  ilaU's  distaMO.  Thence,  across^  Mdttnf  KrtH* 
<tiiovo,  there  are  ishosrs  to  Sarviti*,  aiitf  tha 
tlu»  plaoe,  ae  already  pointed  oat,  2V  BtiUrs 
fli»r«  to  Saloitifera. 

tnsai  Alasiow  there  is  a'latefal  roaff  ^liielt 
iatv»  botwst  and  a  half  lead^  to  I.iVaAi  ad 
tkme^  iii  si«  tty  Katritf. 

The  other  roadi  whichis  UiaKof  tHe'liawdlen! 
■aid  e»titie»,  onlyiidtes'  up  39  Hours;,  titm 
Larissa  ve  pfoeeied  albitg  (he'  ftt^todeS., 
7 

DoiizodbvGoogle 


«x«&}x;]        nn  iiwi.Ufin.Aiaw;  Ml 

and,  passiDg  between  the  Peneus  and  a  manb. 
In  foor  hoah  -ttc  reach  the  vSIa^  of  ^ba, 
situated  at  the  entrandeof'thCTalley  of  Tempe. 
Vrom  Babai  ibe  Jktmee  fe  ttttec  bOtir»  Pi  Uie 
haigg^  ef  the  Pfekmsi^  Md  tbeacft,  b^  the  hdek 
of  Monne  OI|f  mpusi,  tbnee  h»iiV9  fiirthev  to  Pla* 
tMiona.  On  leamni*  tftis  pbce  we  follow  fhe 
saa-eoast,  in  erdier  to^  reaelt  in-  aevtn  htfan  the 
stwA  towiv  ef  KaCrinn.  We  ^n  ceme  i6 
KrftHts  or  CaeCros^  fhree  hwm  distsnf,  trad  n«tf 
t&  I^evfbeheri,  »tiisfed'  a<  »  flinilar  £Man)ee. 
We  then  ttartl  «w  fftt- 19  bmeps  «»  ^K^bHdge-  of 
Ae  Vardfar,  or  eight'  t&  Atf  iWoGFtft'  of  tfte  Mft« 
rivevj^tep  erosuiig  the  !fe^fr>Karamu  and  fibe 
Vistritza.  From  the  bridge  the  distance  tO-Sth 
Itfttica  {» tve  h«iKB. 

Fimm'  I:anB0»  we  proceed  Wward^s  tAe  Sl^ 
^t>i^  ^  raargiv  of  a  rivulet  which'  tafiey  its 
flOiircenocffaFftooi  Velestirr.  At  feur  hotira^  (US' 
ttner  froH  X^ariflsa  Riaeaiikm  {» situate^;'  and 
five-  heurs  ftirtber  eir  is  tha  i^  noall  town  of 
Vetestin';  and>  thenee,  after  erosu'ng  Mount 
P^off,  itt  five  hmirs  we  airive  at  Tblo. 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


964  THK  lOHUN   IBLAITDS.  [CRMP-Xi 

15.  From  Z*ru3a  to  Zeifoun*  Zivaduc,  and 
■  TbebM^  40  hoitrt. 

The  caravtn-road  passes  through  Fbarsalia. 
On  leaving  Larissa  we  travjene  the  plttin  extend- 
ing to  the  S.,  and  in  three  hours  arrive  at  Cbajr 
kedonio,  and  three  hours  afterwards  at  Pharaa. 
Thepce,  in  the  course  of  an  hour,  we  come  to 
7roenia,and,afler  travelling  three  hours  through 
the  defiles  of  Mount  Otridelecha,  approach 
Tbavmako,  wtuaace  desoendiog  bj  the  river  £1- 
lada,  we  reach  Zehoun  in  fwr  hours.  From 
Chdkedpnio  it  is  ako  posiiUe  to  go  direct  to 
£]^s  in  tbj^ee  hours,  aUdUieoce  to  Zeitoun 
ip  five.  : 

From  Zeitoun,  by  followjag  the  road  along 
the  sea-coast  and  after  pasung  several  torrents, 
in  fiiur  hours*  time  we  come  to  the  dcrvent  of 
the  Tbermopyte,  afler  which  we  enter  on  Mount 
CEta^or  Koumaita,  and  spend  three  hours  in 
crossing  it  before  we  reach  the  banks  of  the 
Cephisus,  which  we  pass  an  hour  aflerwaxds, 
and  in  the  space  of  three  hours  arrive  at  Livadia. 
From  this  place  there  are  iive  hours  to  Kara«- 
menia,  and  two  to  Ismene,  which  part  of  the 
road  lies  along  the  plain  bordering  on  lake  To- 
polias ;  we  then  cross  the  Sphynx  mountains,  and 
at  the  expiration  of  three  hours  enter  Thebes. 

From  Zeitoun  there  is  also  another  road  some- 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CmAP.  l£.]  THE  ldHIA»  '}6l.AND5.  S$S 

titans  fivqueiited  by  th^'caravaoB,  which  leads 
directly  to  Salona  in  16  hours.  By  it  #e  go 
from  Theroiopylee  to  the  village  of  Stouvak,  si- 
tuated on  Mount  CEta,  in  four^  hours;  thence 
we  descend  to  Dadi,  eutuated  on  the  banks  of 
the  Cephisus,  or  Mavronor6,  .in  two,  and  then 
ascend  during  two  hours  as  far  as  Agiorani,  at 
the  foot  of  Mount  Parnassus,  and  thence  to  Sa- 
lona in  four  hours. 

16.  Fromjirta  to  L^antOt  30  hours;  and  thence 
to  Salona  and  Thebes,  29. 
From  Arta  we  descend  the  Arachtus  as  fer  as 
its  mouth,  and  then  turn  'to  the  E.,  along  the 
margin  of  a  small  lake,  in  order  to  arrive  at 
Kakorissa,  which  is  four  hours  distant.    From' 
^thence  proceeding  along  the  eastern  margin  of 
the  lake,  in  Ibur  hours  we  reach  Loutraki,  and 
on  leaving  it  pass  over  part  of  Acarnania,  a  wild 
and  mountainous  country,  and  in  -12  hours  ar- 
rive at  Enkili'Kastri,  situated  on  the  Aspro-Po* 
tftmo, '  or  Achelous.      From  Enkili-Kastri  the 
distance  is  five  hours  to  Aita,  where  we  cfoss 
the  river  Hiidari,  or  Ewenus,  and  in  five  hoiirs 
.  afterwards  arrive  atLepanto.    fVom  the  letter 
place  the  distance  is  two  -hours  to  the  castles  of 
the  Dardanelles,  and  one  to  Patras.    From  -Fre- 
vesft  a  road  also  leads  to  Lepanto,  along  the 
1 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


tftf  jmt  I9MIAN  luAifWr       [chat*  X* 

t 
WMtik  We  fiiat  p«u  th«  giitf  of  Actium*  «Bd 
arrive  -at  i^/^a  in  tfaroe  koun ;  thmce  at  Stdioti, 
through  Kaiidiliuidi^iiode,iaAine}  atKatoki* 
tbrw^  VtitdiDmo,  ako  in  ^ne;  and  at  Lepanto, 
throng  AiiSi  ia  lO  more.  The  wh{de  di^ncA 
uequal  tD3l  hounu 

From  Xrikab  to  Arte  a  bad  road  lead*  over 
tbe  nwntitfVit  which  is  tnvriUd  in  18  htmti 
viz.  to  Phanari  In  four  hours,  to  iPSfra  itt  two^  t» 
Kardiki  in  three,  to  Todoriana  also  in  three, 
and  to  Arta  in  six  hoim.  From  IVikala  it  is 
possible  to  travel  to  Lepanto  in  91  hours  by  a 
Hiptt  horrid  road,  practicable  only  fer  foot  tra- 
vellers. We  first  join  the  Aspro-Potamo  at  I^rra, 
a  diatance  of  six  hours,  and  then  desoeod  alei^ 
Ai«  river  for  10  hoim,  to  Argiro^Kastro ;  to 
Abuldior,  nine;  to  Ekikili-Ka9tn,sixt  and  thrice 
to  LepMto  the  distance  is  10  houra. 

From  Lepanto  we  foUow  the  sea-fjoaat  to  the 
E.,  oaly  quitting  it  a  litUeasjfor  ai  JUratwi* 
vhicb  U  at  five  hows'  distanct,  attd  th^ce 
across  ft  chain  of  nuHuitains  the  distance  to  £** 
kma  is~  five  houirs.  JBVom  the  latter  place  we  de>> 
aeeiBd  ioto  the  plain  of  Krissa,  aad  in  an  how's 
twe«rrive  at  Kastri,fttuated  on  tbe  same  river, 
irbich  plaoB  corresponds  to  the  Micient  l>elgbi  i 
and  three  boura  fitrthetri  on  a  dedivU/  «Ef  Mouat 
FWmaasuE^istbe«BalltOfmofAi«kot«{  vhsiMoti 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


«A«r  {M$rfn£  ibroH^  jyimiVM*  Am^  eroMNn; 
MoMQJt  P«6Wsni8>  jo  §em  limits  w«  aH^  at  U- 

FwBi  Art*  tbm!  u  M9th«:  diivult  mdtitti* 
ffo^ented  r<04d  Iwdjog  tp  Zeitotw.  We  fint 
eooie  to  Kftk«ri3Hfl»  tnd  i^erw«FiJ»  (9  Pbiloltiiu 
on  JflAViog  vUch  we  teroatf  tbe  mouotun*.  in 
oiKler  to  amve  st  Argiro-Kflaitro,  We  eroM 
tbeea  s  second  tiiae  biB&re  ire  »rHv9  itt  tbe 
30wee8  d'tbe  EilJa4»v«nd  «t  Kif|ieiwb,  ind 
aHej-TTuds  desccad  0l»Dglhe  Utter  mner,  and 
PAIS  ttiniu^  IVUrBii3eki«  asd  next  arrivs  at  the 
cifcy  of  Zeitoua.  The  distance  by  thaa  road  is 
estimated  at  36  houra. 

iFrom  Thebes  to  Egribos  ws  recko*  eight 
hourh  over  a  good  road  Jt^ding  through  Spa- 
hidesc  From  Thebca  to  Atbeoi,  by  the  abortaA 
i^oad.  tbe  dbtaaoe  \%  calculated  at  12  boora,  \m 
tbe  eourae  of  which  we  cfoas  tbe  A«9o  «b  iht 
lovf  r  bridges  and  pan  through  J&>c^.  Xbe 
most  ire^ented  road»  hovever,  is  that  wUcb 
Iwcb  through  Kosdura. 

n.  From  Thfkt  to  Corinth,  so  hours, 
Travelliog  in^e  abovet^iv^Ma  fremXbebea^ 
we  cross  the  Asopo  on  the  lower  bridge,  aa 
hour's  dittfiHoe  bedew  the  ru!ns  ef  Flatea.  The 
c4Rd.  aderwarde  rangsi  acras  Morait  Elatea, 
*nd  a^  iiaaaiiig  by  a  miosd  SotU  at  tbe  dia* 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


4M  tBB  IONIAN  KLA^Bk.  [cRAP.  X. 

timet  of  six  houn,  enters  Kondura.  Henice  tbe 
kft  road  in  four  hours  leads  to  Lefnna,  and 
thence  to  Athens  in  four  hours  more.  The  road 
which  takes  to  the  right  enters  the  defiles  of 
Mount  I^eo-Vouno,  and  in  six  hours  brings 
the  traveller  to  M^ara.  From  the  latter  place 
«e  continue  to  proclikd  to  the  N.  W.  over  Mount 
Rileo-Vounot  and  by  a  narrow  road  arrive  at 
the  dervent,  which  serves  as  a  gate  to  the  Morea, 
knd  situated  at  four  hours'  distance  fiom  Me^ua. 
Fh>m  the  dervent  in  two  hours  we  reach  Mi- 
niez,  and  on  leaving  this  village  descend  into 
tbe  plains  of  the  isthmus,  and  after  travelKsg 
four  hours  arrive  at  Corinth. 

From  Megara  there  is  also  another  -  road 
ranging  along  the  sea-coast»  which  passes  by 
Kakiskala,  or  the  Scyronian  rocks,  a  distance 
0€  three  hours,  and  afterwards  goes  through 
Soussa-Kevi,  three  hours  forther  on,  and  in  the 
course  of  four  hours  reaches  Ccainth.  This 
load  is,  however,  almost  impracticaUe. 

In  the  Morea  we  will  follow  the  same  plan  as 
the  above,  and  delineate  the  communicstitms 
of  the  chief  posts  among  themselves,  as  well  as 
with  Mistra,  Tripolitza,  and  Corinth. 

18.  From  Patras  to  Corinth^  S3  hours. ..   ,. 

From  Patras,  after  passing  through  the  village 

of'Sichena,  in  an  hour's  time  we  arrive  at  thq 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


I 


CQstle  of  Mbrea.  We  then  ni^e  a  torn  round 
fbe  smatl  gulf  of  Drepano,  and  in  the  course 
<tf  an  hour  arrive  at  the  village  of  this  name. 
Iltence  the  road  prtyceeds  along  the  seBK:oa8t, 
and  at  tb6  distance  of  five  hours  from  D^epano 
passes  the  ruins  of  Salmoniki.  -  In  two  hours  t£. 
terwards  we  reach  the  sttiall  town  of  Vostitza, 
and  in  three  more  the  village  of  Tripia.  Fiona 
the  latter  place  a  road  in  seven  hours  leads  to 
Kalavritta,  after  passing  through  Kanti.  From 
Tripia  therd"  are  two  hours  to  Kentta,  and  four 
to  the  small  town  of  Xilo-Kastro.  An  hour 
from  the  latter  we  pass  by  a  dervent«  and  nine 
hours  further  on  is  the  small  town  of  YassiKko, 
fh}m  whence  to  Corinth  the  distance  is  five 

hoUTB; 

19.  Ftvm  Patras  to  Tripolitxai  S4^  hours. 

From  Patrast  in  proceeding  along  the  western 
declivity  of  Mount  Vodi,  in  seven  hours  we  ar- 
rive at  Triti,  situated  near  the  sources  of  the 
river  of  Kaminitza.  From  Triti,  after  crossing 
Moctnts  -Oleno  and  Xirio,  in  the  space  of  three 
hours  we  reach  Nezero,  situated  on  the  southern 
declivity  of  Mount  Chelroos ;  and  still  proceed- 
ing' along  the  latter  declivity,  at  the  distance  of 
four  hours  from  Nezero  we  come  to  the  town  of 
Kalavritta.  On  leaving  this  place  we  descend 
2  s 


_  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


9^  .TBS  WfWK  mAlTM.  [jQfUF^X. 

M9Wt€belQi09,  and.alter  passing  the  river  £17- 
raiutbus,  a^  traveruBg  a  direigent  deeUv^y, 
in  th^  course  of  three  hours  we  enter  P/rgo, 
nmx  the  sources  of  the  l4doD<  We  ajlenrards 
d^cend  along  the  banks  of  the  I«doa&r  thres 
Jiours*  as  &r  as  Tripotami,  vhere  we  cross  the 
^wve  river,  wd  then  ascend  fox  an  hour  to  Ka- 
kta,  or  Kateli.  From  the  latter  ^ce  in  .five 
hours  we  arrive  at  Mettaga,  and  in  four  and  a 
\uM  more  at  the  village  <^  Vidi,  situated  M  an 
hour*!  distance  from  the  ruins  d  Hantioo. 
We  a&erwards  pass  by  these  ruins,  and  in  three 
hours  aUght  in  Tripol^asa. 

fVom  Kalamtta  thore  is  anoth^  rood,  less 
j&equ6nted,  by  which  ve  arrive  at  TripoUtn  in 
11  hours.  First  we  descend  to  Gar^ki  for  the 
space  of  four  hours,  and  afterwards  for  the  Batne 
length  of  time  to  Dimitzana.  From  thence  we 
ccKse  to  Jakova,  distant  one  hour ;  to  Thel- 
pboussatwo}  toLangadiafouri  toahan,whicb 
ii  five  hours  distant ;  aoA  lastly  to  TripoUtsa. 
which  is  two. 

ftom  Kalavritta  there  is  a  path  over  Mount 
Cyllene,  by  which  the  traveller  goes  to  Vassi- 
liko  in  Si  hours,  by  passing  throu^  Naukna* 
Fhonia,  Henit^i,  ^aka,  Stiphili,  and  X;Uo, 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CBAB.X,']  TOE  tOHtAtt  ISLANIM.  S?! 

2p.  From  Patrtu  t9  TrifioUtaOf  through  Kari* 
tern. 
Thn  road  is  equdly  frequented  by  die  canu 
Tana,  tnd,  ai  we  vhidi  pamt  «ut,  &rms  one  of 
tiK  lines  of  cammuBicati<Hi  corre^Hmding  Id  1^ 
^and  of  Zuita.  From  Patras,  foUowmg  th« 
9M-eoftat,  in  two  hours  T8  aumt  at  Acma,  and 
from  thcatce  ia  three  hours  at  the  small  town  of 
KaaiiahZQ.  From  the  latter  place  w«  Crav^ 
«ver  the  piiiwi  of  EIra>  in  onter  to  reach  ^ 
gulf  (^  Klareataa,  wbi^  we  friUaw  as  &p  as  tiM 
whaU  town  of  Leeoa, «  distance  of  eight  bdura. 
From:  the  lattar  place  tp  the  tow  of  Qastouu 
the  djqtanuw  a  cwufuted  at  three  hours,  Oa 
landing  from  Zante  at  the  pcctof  KlemowteNW 
Hulomidsh,  in  three  hours  we  reach  Crastouni, 
whetHie  Uro  go  ot»  land  to  Fatras,  Koron,  Tri- 
politza,  and  MisfiFa.  From  Oastouni  we  arrive 
9t  Saralia  in  two  hours}  ai  Jtfewloogi  ia  two 
wore;  and  from  thance  we  travel  Saw  boun 
befcoe  WQ  eater  ^e  snail  town  of  Vyj^^  d- 
tittted  at  an  hour's  distance  ftcBX  tha  sea,  am) 
the  saiw  from  the  river  Alpheus.  From  Fyi^ 
ite  asaexd  along  the  bonks  of  tlie  latter  riva 
^  the  apuwof  seven  hmirs,  in  order  to  azrive 
at  t^vill^c  of  Minka,  utuatiad  near  the  ruins 
of  £%:mpia.  On  loH'ii^  MiraJu  we  cross  the 
A^heus^  BQjd  in  one  hoiu  and  a  half  aciive  at 

3B2 


SiqilizodbyGoOgle 


873  THE   IONIAN.  ItLANDS.  [CHAF.lf. 

Fhraxio,  and  then  re-cron  the  oune  river,  and 
reach  In  in  an  equal  space  <^  time.  From  the 
htter  i^e  to  Rbavli  the  distuice  is  three  hours, 
and  in  this  space  we  cross  the  Erymanthus  and 
Ladon.  From  Bhan^U  we  continue  to  ascend 
alcKig  the  Alpheus  for  four  hours,  as  &r  as 
Kastri }  and  from  thence,  in  the  same  space  of 
time,  after  passing  near  the  village  of  St.  Gecvge, 
ve  arrive  at  the  town  of  Kariteni,  situated  on 
a  height,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Alpheus  and 
tfaeGortinyui.  On  quitting  Kariteni  we  enter  on 
the  mountains,  and,  sHet  crossing  two  branehei 
of  the  river  Helisson,  in  eight  hours  we  arrive 
at  a  hao.  On  departing  from  this  han  we  tra^ 
verse  Mount  Roino,  and  in  the  course  of  twa 
houn  reach  Tripolitza. 

31.  From  Patrat  to  Mistra,  62  hours,  and  to 
NapoU  de  Malvana,  16. 
From  Fatras  in  24  hours  we  arrive  at  I^go, 
as  before  noticed.  From  the  latter  place  we  pass 
the  Alpheus,  in  order  to  arrive  at  Agolinitza, 
two  hours  distant,  and  still  continue  to  ascend 
along  the  same  river  as  iar  as  St  Basile,  or  Agio- 
Vassili.  Hence  we  proceed  to  the  S.  £.,  to- 
wards the  sources  of  the  rivulet  flowing  hy  the 
latter  village,  and,  after  travelling  over  a  diver- 
gent ridge,  at  the  end  of  seven  hours  we  al^t 
at  Grivepii  situated  near  the  A^heua.   -From 


DiailizodbvGoOglc 


CHAF.  X.]  THE  lOMtAN   ISLANDS.  373 

this  place  to  the  small  town  of  Andritzena,  built 
on  an  devation  nearly  opposite  to  Kariteni,  the 
distance  ia  three  hours.  On  leaving  Ajidritzena 
we  descend  along  the  slope  of  the  hills  as  &r  as 
the  AlpheuB,  which  we  cross  at  five  hours  dis- 
tance from  Andritzena.  An  hour  afterwards  we 
arrive  at  Sinano,  or  Megalopolis,  seated  on  the 
banks  of  the  Helisson.  From  Sinano  we  come 
to  Londari,  three  bovrs  distant  to  the  S.  £.»and 
ntuated  between  two  branches  of  the  Alpheus. 
In  taking  our  departure  £rom  Londari  we  enter 
on  a  valley  stretching  between  Mount  Roino 
and  the  Taygetus,  in  order  to  come  to  the 
sources  of  the  Eurotas,  or  VassiH'Potamo.  Tlu* 
valley,  which  is  that  of  Belmina,  leads  to  Agio- 
Vassili,  at  six  hours*  distance  from  Londari. 
From  the  village  of  Agio-Vassili  to  Perivoli  the 
distance  is  two  hours  i  and  continuing  to  follow 
the  course  of  the  Eurotas,  six  hours  afterwards 
we  arrive  at  Mistra,  a  city  built  half  a  league 
from  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Sparta. 

From  Mistra  we  descend  towards  the  S.  £., 
leaving  the  village  o(  Soka  to  Uie  right,  and 
cross  the  Eurot«s  bdow  Vordonia,  after  which 
we  ascend  to  ZaaAma,  seven  hours  distant  from 
Mistra.  Tiom  Zizisna,  across  several  small 
valleys,  the  distance  is  two  hoars  to  St  Pavlo, 
two  and  a  half  more  to  Marios,  four  to  Paleo- 
jPid»vro,   cocre^KMiding  to  the  ancient  EpU 


DiailizodbvGoOglc 


87*  f»  ItmiAW  5MLAJn>8.'        C<SlA*.S[. 

danTut-Liiiiera.  The  ruiAs  of  tht  ktter  {)1hc« 
are  St  half  an  hour's  distance  fi'om  Nap<^  di 
Mahrasifc 

From  the  latter  place»  by  foUovhig  fhe  sea- 
coast,  and  makuig  a  toiir  mund  tbe  ca{)es  aftd 
gnlis,  it  is  poinUe  to  truvrl  to  Koton.  lliift 
road  ii  very  practicable,  but  as  it  proceeds  along 
tUne  vhole  coast  <^  the  district  of  MainO,  no  ca» 
ravans  venture  to  frequent  it.  l^rom  Napol», 
through  Agi(vLiti(li  and  Agio*G4orgi,  ttiedis* 
tance  it  10  hours  to  Cape  Malio.  Vrota  this 
pboe  in  six  hours  we  eotne  to  Ctetel-Rampano, 
or  Ruja,  through  Vatiko  and  Zere^a,  and'after> 
wards  pass  by  Sapiko  and  Tzili,  and  in  five 
hours  arrive  at  tiie  mouth  of  the  Eurotaa.  On 
leamg  the  latter  place  we  come  to  Tritiiso,  Ma- 
rathonisi,  Vatfay,  aad  KcJokythia,  in  eight  hours, 
and  thence  to  Cape  Matapao  in  two.  A&j^ 
quitting  thi«  cape  the  road  ascends  to  the  N., 
and  passes  throti^  Komares  and  Maina,  two 
hours  distant;  through  Ch&riotes,  Deimova, rmd 
Vitifo,  six  hours;  Prasto,  Mandiniai,  Patza, 
Kardamyla,  KitHai,  and  -Ealamsta,  in  all  10 
hours.  From  K^amata  to  Nisi  the  distance  i* 
two  houre,  and  lO  more  to  Koroa.  11)6  whole 
difitaDOe  n  vqual  to  S9  hours; 

fVtun  Londari  there  is  still  a  shorter  road  thatt 
that  df  Mistra,  in  order  to  afrive  at  the  moudi 
of  the 'StrctHas.     Along  4t  we  ^ss  by  the  Aer- 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


C»A^.S.!]  TUB  ItfRlAR   tU^AHD^  3'^ 

v^i^Ta-V&ahkiy  thtougb  Z&tnats,  "MsSlGastit 
KMtataia;  afld  Pctrin},  #hence  we  arrfve  at  Koo- 
HiASttH,'  mly  two  hours  distant  from  the  mout^ 
of  the  Eurotas.  Thk  road  takes  up  20  hows  j 
but  as  it  passes  through  the  district  of  Maino, 
it  is  not  at  all  times  safe. 

From  Mistra  to  the  itfoath  df  the  Eurotas 
the  distance  is  tea  hours,  through  Fhiviki^  and 
Koumostra. 

as.  I^om  Patrat  to  K9r<m»  through  Arcadia, 
62  hours. 
From  FMTas  we  aguu  reach  Fyrgo  in  24 
houTfc  We  then  cross  the  Alpheus,  and,  pro* 
ceeding  along  the  fisheries  situated  on  t^  sea- 
eoost,  in  eight  hours  we  arrive  at  tile  pebt,  or 
guard'honse,  of  Kaiapha.  Two  hours  aftCN 
wards,  on  the  sea-side,  we  find  a  han  and  a 
guard-house.  We  still  follow  the  sea-coast,  and 
^fcer  travelling  three'hours  come  to  the  viU^e 
of  Berrish-Aga,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Neda.  -From  thence,  still  proceeding  i^ong  Hie 
coast,  the  distuice  to  Arcadia  is  ibur  hours. 
We  then  go  round  the  cape  by  a  road  half-way . 
up  the  mtnmtains,  and  in  two  hours  arrive  at 
Fhilatra,  in  fiiur  at  Gargagliano,  and  at  ^^- 
Navarin  in  three.  From  the  latter  place  we  go 
round  the  port,  and  in  three  hours  come  to  N»- 


_  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


St6  T9E  lOKUM  »I>AMD8.  £CUAV^)& 

TOFiB.  ModoD  is  also  three  bouj^.  tp  the.  S..  of 
^iaVRiin  i  and  frpm  M^doo  to  Koroi|»;af^  p^lb- 
ing  thFOi^h  Vounari  and  tv4rc^<^fiay  the  di»>- 
tance  is  oompu^atsuc  hoqrs. 

23.  From  Koron  to  Tripolitsa,  36  hours. 
From  Kofon»  aloog  the  coast,  we  reach  Ka»> 
tellia  in  three  hours,  ^nd  tvo  hours  further  on 
paas  below,  the  village  of  Balliada.)  and  after 
craning  eeveral  rivulets,  and  traveUing  for  three 
hours,  we  arrive  at  Nisi.  We  then  ascend  along 
the  FamisuB,  or  Fimatza,  for  the  q>ace  of  two 
hours,  .and  arrive  at  the  sniaU  town  of  An- 
droussa.  We  then  proceed  on  to  Anasiri,  leavi- 
ing  the  ruins  of  Messena  to  the  left,  and  an 
hpur  afterwords  cross  the  Famisus,  and  ascend 
to  heaA,  three  hours  distant  from  Androi^sa. 
From  I^ezi,  in  the  course  of  two  ho(ir^  we  com*' 
to  a  dervent,  formerly  called  the  ^erm^um  (^ 
M^sena.  After  crossing  the  Alpheus,  in  th« 
course  of  three  hours  we  enter  Sinano,  from 
whence,  having  travelled  four  hours,  we  reach  a 
village  situated  on  the  back  of  Mount  Roina 
Two  hours  Either  on  we  approach  the  ruins  <£ 
Fallantium,  and  in  the  course  q£  an  hpur  and 
Mf  a%ht  in  the  city  of  Tripq^t^. 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CBAF'X.]  THB  VXKUS  ISLAND*.  877 

Si.  ^rom  Koron  to  Patrast  through  Karitentf 
60  kouri. 
Another  road  leadt  from  Kotoo  to  Patnts 
vithout  passing  through  Arcadia  or  TripbHtza. 
We  first  come  to  Sinano  in  18  hours,  and  thence 
to  Kariteni  in  three.  We  then  follow  the  Gas- 
toHni  road  as  &r  aa  Iri,  computed  at  1 1  hours, 
afierwards  proceed  to  Dimitzana  in  fi|nr,  and  to 
Xalavritta,  through  CSardiki,  in  eight  more. 
Frpm  Kalavritta  we  join  the'Tripolitza  road, 
Mfd  in  14  hours  enter  Fatras. 

SU.  Frotit  NapoU  di  Romania  to  Corinth^  IS 
hourSf 

'From  Napoli,  after  goisg  round  the  bottom 
of  the  gulfywe  cone  to  Paleo-Ane^Iia,  and  then 
turning-  towards  the  N.,  in  two  hours  time  arrive 
ttt  Flataniti.  From  this  viDage  the  distance  u 
tiiree  hours  to  that  of  Berbali,  and  two  more  to 
Klegna.  On  quitting  the  latter  place  we  enter 
a  defile  which  continues  for  five  hours,  as  fitr  as 
'Corinth. 

From  Napoli  we  reach  Argos  in  three  hours, 
whence  we  can  also  proceed  to  Tripolitza  or 
Corinth  by  the  roads  we  shall  now  proceed  to 
point  out.  Fnmi  Napoli  a  practicable  and  to- 
leraUy  easy  road,  in  10  hours,  leads  to  Pidavns 
4>r  the  ancient  S^ridaurus,  after  passing  tfaroo^ 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


37$  tBM  lifKun  WUVDi.        [pai^iX, 

Avlonara,  PerivoUa»  and  Jero.  From  Pidavro, 
ppoceedmg  aAoog  the  sea-coasti  the  distance  to 
Damala,  or  Troezen,  i»  seven  hours,  and  thence 
to  Kastri  (Hermione)  four  hours  nore.,  fVom 
lUstri,  aacendiiig  thd  galf  of  Naufdiat  through 
Krantdi,  Didymi,  and  Dnpano>  the  distuiee  is 
15  hours  to  NapoU. 

26.  J'qpn  TripoUtza  to  Corinth,  24  horns. 

from  Tripolttza  we  cottie  to  the  ruins  of  MaO' 
tinea,  or  Gturitza,  in  three  hours ;  aod  Jiaif  an 
hour  afterwards  we  enter  Arai,  situated  to  tha 
N.  E.  From  this  place  two  roads  lead  to  Argos. 
Tlie  one  aacends  Motmt  Artemisio,  fn  a  N.  E. 
direction,  as  far  as  Enoa,  which  stands  at  five 
hours  and  half  distaziee  from  Ami,  and  ftom 
£noa  in  three  bcAirs  vie  desoei^  to  Argos-  The 
other  road  issuing  from  Arni  enters  on  Monnt 
Artemisio  to  the  £,,  through  a  deffle  caJIed 
Kaldr^ala,  and  afterwards  descends  three.hoi]r^ 
to  the  vilhige  of  Agenitzi.  From  this  pUce  we 
contknuto  descend  for  three  hours,  as  &ras 
Kill,  and  from  the  latter  village  in  two  boars 
and  a  half  arrive  at  Argos. 

From  Argos,  after  crossii^  the  Pknitsta,  or 
Inaldnis,  in  two  lumra^  we  ascend  to  Kairva^. 
At  two  hoots  and  a  half  distouce  to  the  N.  ef 
Ak  latter  viUagtt  is.  a  dervent.:  siSaated  ow  the 
xoad£om  Klegna  to  St.Qeoiige>  orNemea,  and 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CbAl>.  X.]  THE  lOTTlAH  ISLANDS.  A?d 

ftt  all  equal  distance  from  both  places.  From 
this  derrent  the  distance  is  two  hours  to  Klegna, 
and  afterwards  five  to  Corinth. 

FVom  Argofl  we  may  still  go  in  four  hours  to 
Barbalii  and  thence  in  two  to  Klegna. 

There  ia  still  another  road  fit>m  Tn'politZa  tA 
ArgOi.  On  leaving  TripolitSa  we  pass  through 
the  village  of  Steno,  and  afterwards  enter  on 
Mount  Artemisio,  through  another  defile  cut 
into  steps,  and'  corresponding  to  the  ancient 
Trochos.  On  leaving  this  defile  we  descend  td 
A^aikftmbo,  six  hours  distant  frotn  Tripolitza. 
From  Aglakambo  we  descend  for  four  hours  to 
the  thills  (milos)  situated  near  the  marsh  o€ 
tierna,  and  fiom  these  mills  the  distance  is  three 
boufs  to  ArgOB. 

s;.  From  Tripoiiiza  to  Mistraj  14  hours. 
From  Tri}iolitza  we  direct  our  oourse  to  the 
S.t  towards  the  ruins  of  Tegea,  at  half  an  hour** 
diKance  from  the  former  city,  and  at  the  end  of 
three  hours  arrive  at  Koraka,  and  an  hour  fur- 
ther on  we  find  Karvathi.  On  leaving  the  latter 
village  We  enter  a  defile,  corresponding  to  the 
ancient  Hermeum  of  Laconia,  and  on  issuing 
fi'om  this  defile  we  pass  a  village,  after  which 
we  Cross  over  the  river  Chelefina,  and  arrive  at 
another  vilb^e,  situated  near  a  dervent,  and  at 
six  hours  distance  fiom  KarvathL    We  then 


soiizodbyGoogle 


380  THB   IONIAN   ISLANDS.  [CHit.  X. 

conthine  to  descend  along  the  Cbelefina  for  the 
qwce  of  two  hours  and  a  half.  We  next  cron 
this  river,  wid  ope  hour  and  a  half  afterwards 
pass  the  Eurotas  to  the  N.  of  Mistra.  From  the 
latter  bridge  the  distance  is  only  one  hour  to 
the  city. 

The  mode  of  travelling  in  the  dominions  erf* 
Ali  Facba  is  such  as  it  has  always  been  in  the 
greatest  part  of  Turkey  in  Europe,  that  is,  on 
horseback.  No  one  of  Uiq  great  communicfr 
tions  existing  between  the  capital  of  the  empire 
and  the  frontiers  is  practicable  for  carriages  in 
tiie  whole  of  its  extent.  The  travelling  across 
the  high  chains  of  mountains,  such  as  the  Scor- 
dUB*  Boreas,  Findus,  Othrys,  CEta,  Rhodope,  and 
the  Hsmus,  is  extremely  difficult,  frcuq  their 
bdng  intersected  with  glens  and  precipices; 
there,  indeed,  the  high-roads  are  nothing  more 
than  very  indifierent  paths.  This  is  the  reason 
that  prevents  foreigners  ahiving  there  by  land 
from  bringing  their  carriages  with  them ;  and 
.  in  the  country  we  find  nothing  but  mean  carts. 
Besides,  even  if  such  a  convenience  were  pos- 
sible,  it  would  not  be  adviwble  for  an  Ea- 
xopean  of  the  west  to  suffier  himsetf  to  be  seen 
in  an  equipage  so  extraordinaiy  for  its  novirity, 
in  the  middle  of  a  country  where  it  is  requisite 
as  much  as  possible  to  avoid  the  air  fad  appear- 
ancc  of  every  tiiii^  thftt  is  strange. 


DoiizpdbvGoogle 


CHAP.  X.]  THE   IONIAN  ISLANDS.  381 

The  haas,  or  inns,  which  are  tolerably  Ae- 
quent  id  the  well-peopled  provinces,  very  &r 
£rom  resembliDg  the  inns  of  the  rest  of  Europe, 
are,  if  possible,  worse  than  the  ventasia  Spain, 
and  those  of  the  interior  of  the  kingdom  of 
Maples.  These  buildings,  the  greatest  part  of 
tiieni  &imded  by  the  pachas  and  beys,  or  else 
by  rich  individuals,  offer  to  the  traveller  nothing 
more  than  a  gratuitous  cover ;  but  this  is  not 
always  a  shelter  from  the  inclemency  of  the  wea* 
tber.  It  is  necessary  for  the  traveller  to  carry 
lus  own  provisions  with  him,  as  the  inhabitants 
usually  do,  and  even  his  cooking  utensils,  if  he 
does  not  wish  to  live  according  to  the  usages  of 
the  countiy.  It  is  also  advisable  to  carry  with 
one  every  requisite  to  sleep  upon,  in  order  to 
avoid  the  inconvenience  of  being  obliged  to  bi- 
vouac. 

These  bans  in  general  consist  of  two  or  three 
large  buildings,  standing  on  each  side  of  an  ex- 
tennve  yard,  wherein,  in  the  good  season,  the 
caravans  deposit  the  loads  of  their  beasts,  and 
the  gates  are  shut  during  the  night.  One  or 
tvicr  sides  6£  the  building  are  appropriated  for 
the  reception  of  the  travellers ;  but  these  rooms 
are  nothing  but  mean  garrets,  in  which  there  is 
no  other  fUrniture  than  a  mat,  on  which  it  is  ne- 
cessary  to  sleep  when  one  is  provided  with  no- 
thing better.    The  remainder  of  the  building. 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


089  THE  ZOKIAV  UI.AK|)9.  [CEUP.  X. 

and  vdiich  conatUuKefl  the  best  half,  it  converted 
into  a  Urge  abed»  garoiahed  round  with  &  speciei 
frf*  pngecting  basement,  buUt  in  oiasoniy,  d^t 
gr  ten  feet  wide,  and  three  high.  This  platfonn 
serves  for  the  purpose  of  mangers  for  the  horses, 
a$  a  sleeping  place  ibr  their  conductors  and 
aervants,  and  the  shed  is  also  used  as  a  atore- 
hoiiM)  for  the  goods  in  bad  weather*  la  some 
ctf  the  rich  and  coinmercial  towns,  however, 
some  more  convenient  and  better  fumiahed 
bans  are  to  be  met  with ;  bat  the  diity  carpeb 
which  cover  the  floors,  and  the  mean  sophas,  or 
divans,  which  stand  round  the  i^tartments,  do 
pot  engine  the  traveller  to  repose  on  them  be< 
ipre  he  has  covered  tbem  afi-eeb. 

Hie  conveyance  of  merchandise  fnnn  the  tn> 
terior  of  Turkey  to  the  prindpal  fiiira  of  Mace* 
donia  and  Greece,  as  well  as  to  the  fronticn  of 
Palmatia  and  Germany,  is  pesfi>rmed  on  the 
backs  of  horses ;  mules  are  rarely  used,  unleaa 
it  is  towards  Bosnia  and  Dalmatia,  where  tkoaa 
^om  Italy  are  purchased,  and  camels  still  man 
xarely.  The  latter  animal  is.  only  scea  pasfflig 
through  the  country,  and  when  caramuia  of 
thcua  an  met  with,  Uiey  are  coming  from  Asia; 
indeed  they  seldom  pass  beyond  Salontca-  Tba 
horse's  load  is  generally  equal  to  three  Turkiafa 
quintals ;  and  in  the  land  trade  aurried  on  wilb 
Palnatia  and  Austria  it  is  indifiei^tt  to  reriuui 


DiailizodbvCpOgle 


CHAP.xO  THB  IONIAN   ISLANDS.  38S 

by  the  load  or  by  the  quintal.  Tlie  caravans 
are  mostly  numerous,  and  it  is  not  unusual  to 
see  300  or  400  horses  escorted  by  about  100 
armed  persons,  who. are  Either  merchants,  con- 
ductors, or  servants.  This  precaution  is  neces- 
sary, particularly  in  BuJgaria,  Bosnia,  and  part 
of  Servia,  as  well  as  for  security  in  the  passage 
ftf  Mounts  Scordus,  Bweas,  and  the  Uf^er 
Pindus.  The  caravans  sometimes  obtain,  from 
the  lieutenants  of  the  dervendgi-pacha,  firmans, 
or  orders  for  an  escort,  to  protect  them  through 
tiie  dangerous  passes.  In  Bosnia,  however^ 
u  vdl  as  in  Erzegovina,  the  great  acuity 
^riiich  exists  between  the  Pandours,  or  the  sol- 
diers of  the  police,  and  the  robbers  of  the  high" 
i!0Bd8»  called  Haiduttes,  or  Haidukes,  renders 
these  escorts  dangerous ;  and  for  this  reason  the 
Duerchants  prefer  going  in  large  caravans,  and 
giVtrding  themselves  and  property. 


DiailizodbvGoOglc 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Description  of  the  Ionian  Isiattds.—Corfu.^^^ 
Paxb.—^-  Maura.-^Thiaki.—CepkaUm%a.r^ 
!tdnte. — Cerigo. — Observations  on  the  Posi^ 
tion  of  four  of  the  above  Islands. 

XWE  islands  constituting  the  loaias  republic^ 
and  holding  a  right  to  concur  in. the  formation 
of  the  senate,  are  seven,  viz.  Corfu,  the  prin^ 
cipai  ooe,  as  well  owing  to  its  situation  and 
strengUi,  as  because  of  its  being  the  seat  of  go^ 
vernment  ^  Fax6»  St>  Maura,  Tbiaki,  Cephalo^ 
nia,  Zante,  find  Cerigo.  Cephalonia,  from  its 
extent,  has  always  sought  a  separation,  and  £ir 
several  yeara  past  has  been  the  seat  of  a  govern- 
ment distinct  from  the  republic,  and  cOTrespond- 
ing  to  the  islands  which  Do  longer  depended  od 
Corfu.  The  town  of  Parga,  situated  on  the 
main  land^  also  belongs  to  the  Ionian  republic^ 
as  Well  as  several  other  islands  and  rocks  in 
great  measure  uninhabited,  which  will  be  bri^jr 
described  in  the  course  of  the  present  ehap^^ 
Cor£i,  the  chief  of  the  Seven  Islands,  anci- 
ently called  Corofrot  and  which  in  all  ages  has 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CBAKXI.]  THE  lOKIAN  ISLANDS.  $85 

been  celebrated  for  its  biaritime  strength,  is  «•> 
tnated  between  39^  a^  and  39°  20'  of  N.  la. 
titude,  and  17*^30'  and  17°  IS'  E.  longitude  from 
tbe'  meridian  of  Paris.  It  nearly  stretches  from 
N.  W.  to  S.  £.  to  a  length  of  about  thirty- 
fire  miles,  opposite  to  the  coast  of  Sontbera 
Albania,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  a  chann^ 
ohly  two  mile§  wide  at  Cape  Karagol,  and  sax. 
miles  at  its  issue,  betweea  Gomeaitza  and  Point 
Lefchima  llie  city  (Kf  Corfu,  whose  popuIa< 
tiob  amounts  to  about  15,000  souls,  add  which 
in  formcfr  times  was  also  called  Cereyra,  is  si> 
tuated  on  a  promontory  projecting  into  the  sea, 
and  descends,  in  the  f<n-m  of  an  amphitheatre, 
on  the  northern  slope  of  the  same  iMxtmontbry, 
KBd  at  the  foot  the  port  opens.  This  city  is 
»eitber  large  nor  well  built,  but  it  is  extremely 
strong,  and  mounted  with  a  great  number  (^ 
gans.  Properly  speaking  it  has  two  citadels; 
the  one  corresponding  to  the  government-house, 
Separated  fivm  the  city  by  an  esplanade ;  and 
the  other  called  the  fort,  which  stands  to  the 
W.  of  the  city  and  the  port. 

Ilie  weak  side  of  the  town  was  formerly  that 
jHui  which- iiices  to  the  S.  towards  the  mills 
StMiding  in  that  quarter,  but  at  present  this 
front  is  as  susceptible  of  a  good  defence  as  any 
dtiier.  The  port  is  rather  small,  and  will  not 
admit  lai^  men  of  war  V  but  the  road  is  so  se- 
2  c 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


SS0  THE   IONIAN   ISLANDS.  [cHAP.  XI. 

cure  that  it  may  be  considered  in  the  light  of  an 
extreme  good  harbour,  with  an  excellent  an? 
cborage. 

In  front  ot  Corib,  at  the  distance  of  about  a 
mile,  is  the  island  of  Vido,  formerly  caHed  Pti- 
ckiot  where  the  Lazaretto  is  kept  This  island 
is  likewise  fortified  with  a  triple  range  of  batte- 
ries, which  have  converted  it  into  an  extremely 
strong  bulwark,  and  which  at  the  same  time 
perfectly  defend  the  road  and  port  of  Cor&. 

To  the  N,  of  Corfu,  and  at  the  bottom  of  the 
great  road  formed  by  the  promontory  on  which, 
the  town  is  situated  and  Cape  Karagol,  is  a  to- 
lerably deep  bay  with  a  narrow  entrance,  called 
Vott  Guvine.  This  road,  which  in  1799  c<m- 
tained  the  Russian  and  Turkish  squadrons,  and 
is  capable  of  receiving  and  sheltering  a  consi' 
derable  number  of  large  ships,  is  also  now  for- 
.  tified  and  defended  in  its  internal  extent,  as  well 
as  at  the  entrance,  by  well-armed  forts  and  bat- 
teries. No  place  in  the  Seven  Islands  is  to  be 
found  so  suitable  as  this  for  the  establishment  of 
a  naval  building  yard ;  indeed  for  this  purpow 
it  seems  peculiarly  well  adapted.  The  greatest 
part  c^  die  necessary  materials  can  be  easily 
brought  there,  and  at  a  small  expense,  ^e 
have  tUready  shown  that  one  of  the  brancJies  c^ 
commerce  carried  on  between  Albania  and 
Western  Europe  was  ship-tvnber,  which  in  great. 


.  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


CHAP.  XI.]  THE   IONIAN   ISLANDS.  387 

measure  went  to  Venice  and  Marseilles.  Tbtt 
conunerce  may  now  be  re-established  with  the 
greatest  ease,  since  the  channels  of  supply  are 
at  most  only  50  miles  distant  from  Corfu.  But 
even  when  sufficient  timber  could  not  be  ob- 
tained there,  Northern  Albania  furnishes  great 
abundance,  and  extremely  fine.  The  ports  of 
Durazzo  and  Alessio,  which  are  only  50  or  fiO 
leagues  from  Corfu,  were,  under  Louis  XIV., 
formed  into  entrepots  of  a  similar  nature  for 
the  use  of  the  French  navy ;  and  these  might 
easily  be  re-established  with  a  people  who  would 
gladly  hail  the  opening  of  a  branch  of  trade 
which  has  been  lost  to  them  for  more  than  a 
century.  Durazzo,  and  the  harbour  situated 
near  Fort  Souroh,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of 
Kavalia,  would  serve  for  the  loading  of  all  the 
timber  furnished  by  the  mountains  between  £1- 
bassan  and  Kroja.  The  port  of  Alessio,  and 
that  corresponding  to  the  mouth  of  the  Bajana, 
Tould  serve  as  a  depot  for  the  timber  brought 
down  from  the  mountains  of  Upper  Albania, 
and  this  is  at  the  same  time  the  best  in  quality, 
and  the  most  abundant.  The  Drino  is  navigable 
fi)r-'large  rafts  to  a  distance  up  of  more  than  SO 
hours ;  and  in  this  space  it  flows  through  magni- 
ficent forests,  whose  tiipber  would  only  have  to 
lUde  into  the  bed  of  the  river.  The  same  may 
ako  be  nid  of  Moraccia,  above  Lake  Shiabi^ 
2c2 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


388  THE  IONIAN   ISLANDS.         [cHAP.  II. 

and  the  town  of  Pogoriua.  The  Author,  who 
has  travelled  through  this  part  of  Uie  country, 
speaks  only  of  what  he  has  himself  seen.  From 
ttie  above  exposition  it  is  therefore  easy  to  con- 
clude that  the  building  yards  of  Corfu  might  be 
supplied  with  abundance  of  valuable  ship-timber. 
The  hemp  necessary  for  cordage  and  sails,  and 
6f  which  the  towns  of  Bologna  and  Ferrara  in 
Italy  are  capable  of  supplying  a  large  quantity, 
might  also  be  obtained  at  the  port  of  Alessio, 
and  brought  down  from  the  vicinity  of  Skutari. 

The  gulf  of  Corfii  is  terminated  to  the  N.  by 
Cape  Karagol,  anciently  called  Pos&dium,  and 
which  is  opposite,  and  only  two  miles  distant 
from,  the  point  of  Bucintr6.  In  the  middle  of 
this  channel  ia  an  isolated  rock.  In  1798  it  was 
proposed  to  establish  a  redoubt  on  the  point  of 
Bucintr6,  a  strong  closed  battery  on  the  above 
rock,  and  another  similar  one  on  Cape  Karagt^. 
In  this  manner  the  channel  of  Corfu,  being  shut 
in,  would  have  been  converted  into  a  kind  of 
road,  where  an  enemy's  squadron  would  have 
been  exposed  to  great  dangers,  owing  to  the 
calms  which  so  frequently  reign  there.  At  pre- 
sent, however,  as  Bucintr6  is  under  the  power 
of  Ali  Pacha,  this  measure  is  no  longer  practi- 
cable. To  the  N.  of  Cape  Karagol,  and  at  four 
miles  distance,  is  another  promontory.  It  is 
bere  that  the  channel  ends,  and  we  immediately 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CSU>P<U.]  THE  IfWUV  IiI.Aia>8.  889 

enter  into  the  gulf  of  Kass<^o,  or  Agu>i-S«- 
raoda.  The  whole  of  this  coast  is  extremely 
steep  and  rugged,  and  affords  no  lauding  point, 
nor  indeed  any  safe  anchorage.  After  pas^ng 
the  above  point  the  coast  stretches  to  the  N.  W,j 
bounded  by  rocks  and  small  islands*  for  the 
space  of  ux  miles,  as  far  as  Kassopo,  a  village 
s^uated  at  the  bottom  of  a  bay,  -which  forms  a 
small  but  convenient  port.  After  leaving  this 
bay,  and  on  a  promontory  which  terminates  it 
to  the  N.,  we  see  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  city 
of  Cassiope,  of  which  the  castle  is  still  in  to* 
lerabte  preservation.  To  the  S.  of  Cassiope  for* 
inerly  stood  th^  temple  of  Jupiter  Cassius,  on 
the  summit  of  a  mountain  still  called  Mount 
Kassopo.  At  present,  cm  the  highest  summit  of 
this  mountain,  in  the  same  place,  and  in  the 
exact  direction  irom  Coifu  to  Kassi^o,  we  see 
the  ruins  of  a  tower  which  once  served  as  a  se- 
mograph.  From  this  point  it  was  possible,  with 
the  greatest  ease,  to  observe  the  vessels  enter- 
inginto  the  gulf  of  Otranto,  tuidto  give  advice 
of  tbem  at  Corfu ;  and  thence  also  the  city  of 
Otranto,  Cape  Leuca,  and  Cape  Lenguella,  may 
be  descried. 

Afler  passing  Kassopo,  the  coast,  unifi>rmly 
ste^  and  rugged,  ranges  in  the  same  direction 
for  the  space  of  eight  or  ten  miles  as  &r  9$ 
Cape  Sidero,  formerly  called  Phalarum,  and 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


S90  THE   IONIAN   ISLANB3.         [cIIaP.XI. 

vhich'forms  the  northern  extremity  of  the  island. 
Between  Kassopo  and  Gape  Sidero  is  the  villag6 
of  Kstrini,  seated  at  the  mouth  of  a  rivulet 
forming  a  tolerably  deep  port.  To  the  N.  W. 
of'Cape  Sidero,  in  the  direction  of  Otranto^  and 
at  the  distance  of  lo  or  12  miles,  is  the  small 
island,  or  rather  rock,  of  Fan6,  formerly  OthU' 
nus,  Upkanus,  or  Calypsus.  The  author  of  the 
Adventures  of  Telemachus  would  find  it  very 
difficult  to  accommodate  his  pompous  descrip* 
tion  <^  the  charming  island  of  Calypso  to  this 
spot.  It  is  nothing  but  a  barren  rock,  suscep- 
tible of  no  cultivation,  and  only  inhabited  by  a 
few  fishermen.  Fan6  is  nevertheless  extremely 
important.  This  rock,  which  affords  good  an- 
chorage, is  the  best  possible  military  station  to 
observe  the  navigation  of  the  Adriatic  sea.  Not 
a  sail  can  pass  by,  however  near  to  one  shore  or 
the  other,  without  being  noticed  from  Fan6. 
It  had  been  proposed  to  establish  a  fi>rt  there, 
in  order  to  secure  the  navigation  from  Otranto 
to  Corfii.  To  the  £.  of  Fan6  is  another  large 
rock,  uninhabited,  called  Malnera,  and  formerly 
known  by  the  name  of  Maltkace  ;  and  betwera 
the  latter  and  Gape  Sidero  is  another  smaller 
one,  named  Gravia. 

After  passing  Cape  Sidero  the  coast  ranges  to 
the  S.  for  the  distancie  of  18  miles,  and  as  far  as 
Cape  St.  Angelo,  anciently  Amphiphegus.     At 
7    •- 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CHAF.  XI.3         THE   lOMIAM  ISLANDS.  391 

the  bottom  of  a  small  road  to  the  S.  of  the  cape 
stands  the  village  of  St.  Angelo,  where  anchor" 
age  is  to  be  founds  though  not  very  secure, 
owing  to  an  extensive  bed  of  shoals.  The  coast 
situated  between  the  two  capes  is  steep,  and  al- 
most inaccessible.  To  the  W.  of  Cape  St.  An- 
gelo  are  two  long  rocks  surrounded  hy  dan- 
gerous l^ges  under  water.  These  rocks  are 
c^led  the  Samandraki,  and  in  former  times  Eri' 
eusa.  From  St.  Angelo  the  coast  turns  to  the 
S.  £.  during  a  space  of  15  miles,  and  as  fiir  as 
C^  Gardiki,  and  &om  thence  it  again  changes 
to  the  £.  S.  £.  for  about  the  same  distance,  and 
till  we  arrive  at  Ci^  !Kanco,  formerly  named 
Leucimna,  To  the  S.  E.  of  Cape  Gardiki  is  a 
tolerably  deep  bay,  where  we  find  the  village  of 
the  same  name ;  and  this,  together  with  the  port 
of  St.  Angelo,  are  the  only  two  anchoring- 
grounds  by  which  access  can  be  had  to  this  part  of 
the  island.  To  the  S.  of  Gardiki  are  three  rocks 
called  Lagudia.  From  Cape  Bianco  the  coisst 
extends  for  about  six  mil^  in  a  northern  direc- 
tion, 'forming  a  species  of  inward  bend  as  &r  as 
the  point  of  Lef  kimOj  in  front  of  Gomeoitza,  and 
which  terminates  to  the  S.  the  channel  of  Cor&. 
Between  these  two  points  is  the  village  of  Le£- 
cbimo,  or  rather  Lefkimo,  formerly  Leudnma. 
Lef  kimo  in  vulgar  Greek  is  the  proDunciation 
pf  the  word  Afuxtfu,.    Ailer  passing  Point  Lef* 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


39S  THE  IONIAN  IU.AKD8,  [cHAP.  XI. 

kimo  the  coast  turns  a  little  to  the  W.  fiir  tiae 
eKtdot  of  at>out  six  miles,  and  as  fac  as  Point 
Piagotino,  which  closes  to  the  N.  a  toIcralH/ 
deep.  bay.  At  the  bottom  of  thu  bay  is  the 
village  (^  the  utaae  name,  near  which  aalt-works 
are  established^ 

.  The  j>roinonf0iy  on  which  the  town  of  Corfu 
i«  situated,  and  of  which  it  occupies  oae  of  the 
poiftts,,  projecte  ifor  some  distance  to  the  S.  £^ 
add  as  &r  as  opposite  to  the  village  of  St.  Tii- 
Bit4>  Between  t^  villa^  and  the  cape  is  a  to- 
lo^jiibiy  de^  bay,  at  the  bottom  of  whidi  flows 
kiLvutetv  Tim  bay  torraf^Dds  to  the  aaeieat 
Aldatus  Portal  where  Ulyaws  toded  aibr  his 
^pwieck,  bn4  ^here  he  met  with  the  Prmcen 
of  the  Pfa«acilans,daug[U;erto  .Acinous.  Fmcn 
the  soiithmi  shore  of  this  bay,  as  &r  as  Cxpa 
Bianco,  (be  coest  is  very  much  obstructed  by 
shoais  stretching  io  the  whole  of  that  distance. 
Xhe  i^dd  of  Corfu  is  in  geoeral  unproduottfe 
ia  grain  aud  cattle,  and  afibrds  very  Httle  weodi 
The  canton  of  Kassopo  produces  a  small  quan- 
tity of  wheat  along  the  coasts  but  olive-yards 
tad  vines  are  equally  found  there.  The  iippM 
part  of  Mount  Kassopo,  however,  as  well  as  the 
whole  of  the  southern  decKvity,  are  barren. 
The  canton  of  Lakonos  is  the  least  productive ) 
that  of  Lef  kimo,  besides  having  salt-wm-ks,  pro- 
duces ohves,  vines,  andasmall  quantity  <^  wheat 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


COAT.  XI.3         THE   IONIAN  ISLANDS;  393 

From  this  exposition  it  will  appear  that  the  pro- 
ductions of  Corfu  are  conlStied  to  wine,  oil,  and 
salt,  and  consequently  this  i^and  is  under  the 
necessity  of  seeking  its  own  subsistence  by  means 
of  a  fordgn  trade. 

Pax6,  formerly  PasuSf  situated  seven  or  eight 
miles  to  the  S.  E.  of  Cape  Bianco,  is  an  island 
of  about  1 8  or  SO  miles  in  circumference.  Op- 
poaite  to  Parga  is  a  tolerably  deep  bay,  which 
serves  b9  a  port  to  the  sm:dl  town  of  Fbxd,  con- 
taining ^out  4000  inhabitants,  and  the  only  re* 
markaUe  place  in  the  whole  idand  which  only 
produces  wine  and  oU,  reputed  to  be  the  best 
of  all  Ionia.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  of  Vre* 
vcsa,  and  some  Souliots,  have  taken  refuge  in 
FftK6,  and  increased  the  population.  Between 
Fax6  and  Cape  Bianco  is  a  desert  rock ;  and  to 
the  S.  E.  of  the  island  is  another,  called  Anti- 
Paxd,  inhabited  by  a  few  fishermen. 

St.  Maura,  anciently  called  Leucedia,  and  in 
more  lemote  times  Neryius^  is  an  island  of  about 
50  miles  in  circumference,  situated  opposite  to 
the  point  of  Acamanta,  irom  which  it  is  sepa- 
rated foy  a  narrow  and  shallow  channel,  and  to 
the  S.  of  the  mouth  of  the  gulf  of  Arta.  St. 
Maura  oa  one  side,  and  Pax6  on  the  other,  form 
the  g^  of  Prevesa.  A  remarkable  peculiarity 
of  the  gulf  of  Arta,  and  also  felt  in  that  of 
Prevesa,  and  as  far  as  beyond  Pax6,  is  the  re- 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


S94  THE   IONIAN  ISLANDS.         [CHAP.  XI. 

gular  coune  of  the  winds.  Daily,  somi  after 
the  sun  rises,  an  easterly  breeze  commences^ 
and  lasta  till  noon,  and  at  three  in  the  afternoon 
it  is  succeeded  by  a  westerly  wind,  which  conti- 
nues till  night.  The  same  direction  is  also  ob* 
•ervable  in  the  current  of  the  channel  of  Fre- 
vesa.  This  alternation  is  regular,  and  it  re* 
quires  a  strong  gale  or  storm  excited  in  the  high 
seas  to  interrupt  it.  The  island  of  St.  Maura 
was  formerly  joined  to  the  continent  in  that  part 
now  called  the  beach  -  of  Playa,  and  it  was  the 
Italians  who  separated  it,  but  the  precise  period 
is  not  known.  The  fortress  of  St.  Maura,  fw- 
merly  called  Leucas^  is  to  the  N.  of  the  island, 
at  the  extremity  of  a  very  narrow  strip  of  land 
embracing  the  port,  and  separating  it  from  the 
town,  to  which  it  is  nevertheless  again  joined 
by  an  aqueduct  in  the  form  of  a  bridge.  This 
fortress  constitutes  a  good  defence.  The  popn- 
laticm  of  the  town  <^  St.  Maura  is  estimated  at 
6000  persons.  Tlie  island  on  the  land  aide 
can  only  be  attacked  through  Flaya,  where  the 
channel  is  only  300  toises  wide,  about  80  of 
which  only  are  not  fordable.  The  Russians  had 
raised  works  opposite  to  this  beach,  one  of 
which,  called  Fort  Alexander,  was  dismantled  la 
1807  by  the  explosion  of  a  shell  fired  from  the 
continent,  which  caused  a  powder-magazine  to 
blowup. 


DiailizodbvGodgle 


CHAP.  XI.]  TBE  IONIAN  ISLANDS.  395 

At  the  southeiD  extremity  of  the  island  and 
about  85  miles  S.  W.  of  St.  Maura  is  Cape 
Dulcato,  anciently  called  Leucai.  It  was  on 
the  extreme  point  of  this  promontory  and  on  a 
vteep  and  threatening  rock,  that  the  celebrated 
temple  of  Leucadia  once  stood,  vhere  unhappy 
lovers  came  to  cure  themselves  of  a  fruitless 
passion,  and  the  spot  on  which  Sappho  met  with 
the  end  of  her  life  as  well  as  the  close  of  her 
misfortunes.  This  formidable  promontory  is 
9till  venerated  by  the  lonians,  nor  does  any 
oavigator  now  venture  to  pass  it,  without 
throwing  into  the  sea  a  piece  of  money  as  an 
expiatory  oflering.  From  this  cape  to  the 
northern  point  of  Cephalonia,  the  distance  is 
only  four  miles.  Here  commences  the  use  of 
the  boats  or  canoes  made  out  of  the  single 
trunk  of  a  tree,  and,  for  that  reason,  called  by 
the  lonians,  monoxilon.  This  small  vehicle  is 
extremely  convenient  for  the  interior  navigaticm ' 
of  these  seas ;  and  by  this  means  the  cruising  of 
an  enemy's  squadron  has  never  been  able  to  pre- . 
vent  the  communication  of  the  islands  with  each 
other.  The  principal  villages  of  St  Maura  are 
Fhrini,  Kalamita,  Neochoro,  Dragoni,  situated 
on  Cape  Dukato ;  Eviero,  and  Ellomeno,  fcH*- 
cnerly  Ellomenus,  which  stands  at  the  bottom  <^ 
a  tolerably  deep  bay.  The  island  of  St.  Maura 
is  no  other  than  a  single  mountain,  extremely 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


996  .TBUEJtOMlAlI  IBXANOS.         [OHAP.  KI. 

high  and  sot  vei7  ^rtUe;  the  sidea  of  this 
monntani  however,  facing  the  sea,  produce 
wine  and  olives  the  only  Articles  of  growth  the 
island  aShrdA.  The  island  of  Mc^aoisi,  ao  al- 
most uninhabited  rock  and  formerly  called  7%^. 
iebaideSi  is  situated  along  the  coast  of  St.  M«ira 
to  the  S.  E.  from  which  it  is  separated  by  a  nar- 
row channel.  Near  the  continent,  and  to  the 
N.  E.  of  Draj<Hnestre,  is  another  insulated  rock 
called  Kasto,  and  formerly  Axia ;  and  a  little 
forther  <hi  towards  the  sea  is  the  island  (^  Ka> 
Iamo>  anciently  known  by  the  name  of  Tapkutt 
inhabited  only  by  fishermen. 

Tbiaki,  formerly  called  Ithaca,  is  an  island  (^ 
tSaoai  20  miles  in  length,  stretching  from  N.  W. 
to  S.  E.  and  situated,  at  the  distance  of  about 
six  miles  to  the  S.  E.  of  Cape  Dukatis.  The 
ancient  name  of  Dulichium  is  also  attributed  to 
Thiaki,  but  it  appears  more  probable  that  this 
appellation  rather  corresponds  to  the  island  of 
Antoliko,  at  a  later  period  called  Melite.  Tlie 
island  of  Thiaki  in  reality  forms  two*  united  by 
an  isthmus  of  about  a  mile  wide.  To  the  N.  it 
widens  between  Cape  Markama,  standing  in 
fi-ont  of  Cephalonia,  and  Cape  St  John,  about 
12  miles  distant  from  each  other.  The  southern 
part  which  is  about  five  miles  wide,  fioisbes  at 
MK>tber  Cape  St.  John,  opposite  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Achelous.     In  this  southern  part  is  the 


DiailizodbvGoOglc 


CHAP.  XI.3         THE   IONIAN   tiLANDS.  3d? 

Village  of  Oxoi,  situated  on  a  mountain.  In 
the  northern  part,  on  another  mountain,  is  the 
village  <^  Anoi,  formerly  Ndas.  These  two 
portions  of  the  island  are  separated  by  a  bay 
five  milea  deep  and  two  wide,  and  in  the  eastern 
part  of  the  same  bay  are  two  ports.  The  oaej 
called  Skinon,  is  placed  near  Hk  entrance ;  and 
the  other  which  is  that  of  Vatby,  has  a  narrow 
mouth,  but  is  afterwards  almost  two  miles  deep. 
At  the  bottom  of  this  port  is  the  small  town  of 
Vathy,  contuning  about  3000  inhabitants  and 
occupying  the  ground  of  the  ancient  Ithaca, 
the  capital  as  well  as  the  residence  of  the  wise 
Ulysses,  Penelope,  and  Telemachus.  The  ruin* 
called  Paleo-Kastro,  seen  to  the  S.  E.  of  Vathy, 
must  have  belonged  to  Ithaca  or  the  ancient 
palace  of  Ulysses.  Vathy  is  the  native  place 
of  Senetor  Zar6,  one  of  the  most  distinguished 
magistrates  of  Ionia  as  well  for  the  goodness  o( 
his  character  as  for  his  learning.  Tradition 
makes  him  descend  from  Ulysses,  the  counsel- 
lor of  Agamemnon  and  the  friend  of  Nestor  j  and 
of  such  an  honour  he  is  in  every  respect  de- 
serving. There  are  still  two  other  ports  in  the 
island  of  Thiaki :  the  one  called  Aitto  to  the  E. 
is  situated  below  Oxoi,  and  the  other  named 
PagH  opens  below  Anoi.  "ITiis  island  is  not 
deemed  fertile  ;  there  are,  however,  a  few  scat- 
tered plots  of  wood  near  Aooi,  Oxoi,  and  port 


3,a,l,zt!dbvG00gIe 


89s  TBE  lOWIAN  nVAXma.        [chap.  XI. 

Skioon.  To  the  £.  of  Thiaki,  and  exacdy  in 
the  same  direction  from  Vatby,  is  an  island 
about  three  miles  long,  inhabited  by  fi^ermen, 
and  called  Jotako.  This  island,  by  some  geo- 
graphers mistaken  for  Ithaca,  was  anciently 
known  by  the  name  of  Prote» 

Cephalonia,  ancient^  Cephalema,  the  seccmd 
in  rank  of  the  Seven  Islands,  is  the  first  in  point 
of  size.  It  is  100  miles  in  circumference  from 
cape  to  cape,  and  nearly  150  in  following  the 
direction  c£  the  coast.  This  island  is  situated 
four  or  five  miles  to  the  S.  of  Cape  Dukato  be- 
longing to  St.  Maura»  10  from  Cape  Papas, 
ei^ht  from  Cape  Tomesei  and  six  from  Zante. 
To  the  N.  of  the  island  in  the  canton  of  Erizzo 
is  Cape  Viskardo,  and  to  the  S.  E.  of  this  cape 
IB  the  port  of  the  same  name,  at  the  bottom  of 
vhich  are  seen  ruins,  but  it  is  not  known  to 
what  ancient  city  they  can  be  attributed.  In 
the  channel  of  lliiaki  is  the  rock  of  Didas- 
Kala,  formerly  Atteru.  The  villages  of  this 
canton  are,  Vasilikates,  towards  the  N. ;  Kami- 
tato,  on  the  eastern  coast ;  Logorata,  to  the  S. ; 
and  on  the  western  coast  Asso,  situated  at  the 
bottom  of  a  bay  at  the  extremity  of  which,  on 
&  small  peninsula,  has  been  built  the  fort  of  this 
liame,  near  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Niseus.  On 
the  western  coast  and  to  the  S.  of  Asso  is  the 
canton  of   Tinea,  the  Tillages  of  which  are 


L     ,l,z<,i:,.,  Google 


w 


CHAP.  XI.]'        THE,  lOHIAlf   ISLANIM.  399 

Tinea,  seated  on  the  tea-shore  at  five  miles  dis- 
tance from  Asso }  and  Gaifi,  three  miles  inland. 
One  of  the  western  points  of  Cephalonia  is- 
Cape  Giria,  in  the  canton  of  Anoi  j  and  the 
village  of  Aterra  stands  five  miles  to  the  £.  at 
the  bottom  of  a  port,  anciently  called  Pronesui* 
To  the  S.  of  Capelgiria  is  Cape  Sidero,  in  the 
canton  of  Katoi,  the  last  point  stretching  to  the 
W.,  and  near  is  the  vill^e  of  Tafio.  The  can- 
ton of  Livadi  extends  round  a  bay  eight  mile> 
deep  and  two  wide  at  the  entrance,  and  near 
tbe  western  point  of  this  entrance  are  the  rocks 
called  Guardiani,  and  formerly  known  by  the 
name  of  Letoia.  From  these  rocks,  as  far  as 
C^>e  Sidero,  shoals  are  to  be  met  with.  On  the 
western  side  of  the  bay  and  at  three  miles  from 
its  entrance  is  die  small  town  of  Lexuri,  for- 
merly Palla  ;  and  to  the  N.  W.  inland  is  Kur&- 
lata.  Opposite  and  at  some  distance  from  the 
eastern  side  is  also  Dangata.  In  front  of  Lixuri 
the  bay  opens  into  a  branch  running  to  the 
S.  S.  £.  for  three  miles,  and  on  the  peninsula 
formed  by  this  branch  is  the  small  town  of  Ar- 
gostoli,  the  most  considerable  one  of  the  island, 
although  it  does  not  contain  more  than  5000 
souls.  This  place  was  anciently  known  by  the 
name  of  Cranii. 

In  the  centre  of  the  island  is  the  canton  of 
Potamiana,  and  in  this  district  eight  miles  N.  £. 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


400  TBB   IONIA»   IBLAHM.  [OBaP.  XI. 

of  ArgostoU  is  the  small  town  called  Borgo, 
irhicb  has  replaced  the  ancient  Ctphalenia; 
and  to  the  S.  is  F«sada.  To  the  N.  W.  Diliaata 
and  Kardakata  also  belong  to  the  same  cantMi. 
To  the  S.  of  Argostoli  is  the  canton  of  Lizato, 
containing  the  villages  of  Miniez  to  Uie  S.  of 
(he  island ;  Metacata,  more  to  the  N.  E. ;  and 
Veskovato,  situated  inland.  The  coast  border- 
hig  on  this  canton  is  full  of  ledges  of  rocks. 
To  the  £.  is  the  canton  of  Ikongnia,  exteodhig 
as  &r  as  Cape  Korogra,  in  front  of  Cape  Tor- 
nese.  Its  villages  are,  Vlakato,  to  the  N.  W.  i 
Katoleoa  above  Cape  Korogra,  and  MorcopB- 
hto,  standing  a  little  higher  up.  The  chnrch 
of  Madonna  di  Malle,  built  on  the  Kack 
Mountain  (Mavrovouno),  and  formwly  called 
CEnus,  stands  in  the  place  of  the  tefopld  6i 
Jupiter  CEnius.  On  the  eastern  and  soufchem 
declivity  of  this  mountain  is  a  forest  15  or  26 
miles  in  circumference ;  a  few  thickets  are  also 
found  in  the  island  near  Duliuata,  Kuvalata, 
Aterra,  Daugata,  Paleochori,  and  the  town  c^ 
Cephalonia. 

Between  Capes  Korogra  and  Kapro  and  op^ 
posite  to  Cape  Papas  is  .the  canton  of  Skala, 
only  containing  the  village  of  this  name,  and 
situated  on  an  elevation  two  miles  distant  from 
Cape  Skala,  where  stand  the  ruins  belonging  to 
ti»  ancient  CEnus.      At  the  point  of  Capes 


bv  Google 


CHAP.  XI.3        l^B   lOKIAN  HLAHDS.  4Q1 

Korogn  and  Ki^ro  some  sboals  are  noticed.  To 
the  N.  W.  of  Cape  Kapro  and  at  Uie  foot  of  the 
Black  Mountain  is  the  canton  »f  Pine,  in  whidi 
is  the  village  of  Vlachochori  }  and  to  the  S.  E. 
port  Poro  opens  vhere  fonnerly  the  mty  <^ 
Pronii  stood.  To  the  N.  of  the  canton  ijfViiie 
is  the  C^>e  of  Alessandria.  Between  this  cape 
and  point  Pilaro  is  the  bay  called  the  VaUe  of 
Alessandria,  owing  to  the  shoals  wbioh  w  there 
met  with.  On  Uie  eastern  side  of  this  bay  is 
rituated  the  canton  of  Samo,  to  which  the  vil- 
iage  of  Paleochori  belongs  standing  to  the  S.  £. ; 
and  in  the  bottom  of  the  bay  are  the  ruins  of 
the  ancient  Santa  or  Same.  On  the  eastera 
side  also  is  the  canton  of  I^aro.  The  village 
of  this  name  stands  to  the  N.  W.  near  the  port 
of  the  same  name,  and  otherwise  called  the  port 
of  St  Enphemia.  The  village  of  Makriotika 
also  stands  to  the  S.  W.  The  island  of  Cepha- 
lonia  is  not  very  abundant  in  wheat*  thou^  it 
produces  more  than  the  others ;  but  it  is  fertile 
in  good  wines  and  excellent  fruits,  parUcularly 
melons  of  a  very  superior  quali^. 

Zante,  formerly  ZacyHikus,  is  an  iaUnd  of 
about  IS  miles  in  length  and  30  in  circum- 
ference. Cape  Skinari,  situated  to  the  N.  is  six 
miles  S.  £.  of  the  uland  of  Cephalonia ;  and^ 
Cape  Vasnliko  is  10  miles  S.  W.  of  Cape  Tor- 
nese.    The  city  of  Zante,  anpiently  also  called^ 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


402  TitE  rtwilAN  fStAS&B.       .-[etiAK  XI. 

■Zacynthts,  anfl  having  4- population  of  ie,<X)t) 
'touh,  h  built  in  a  liftfe  along  tile  eastern  ^6  of 
thfe  itl**d,  » littte  «o  the  S.  of  Cape  Krio-nei* 
(fc-eshiwater)  1'2  mStes  diidint,  and  nearty  W. 
»om  Cape  TiiriiSst,  rt  *He  bdtiaa  of  a  small 
%ay  fbnneA  fty  Cape  K'rio-nei^  anti  the  point  of 
tte  lUmJomia  ai  Skopo.  Thetert'slaildslftthe 
N.  'W.  of  t?ift  town,  at  the  eltremity  ttf  a  oe*m- 
tnandjog  hiB.  The  port  is  in  fet*  no  other 
than  a  road, 'containing  ttfcoatthtee  miles  in  the 
*pe»)Bg'««d'f(<(*r*>'iB  \WlOfc 'BtteHlal  extent, 
*dtft!in»tett*ly9ect*e.  At'tftefoinirfCape 
:KriO-«»r6;:as%elI'»s'th4ti4rM»i!ooha»!B  Skopo, 
are  Wgesof  rocks  easily  avoidea.  To'*e  N. 
•4^  tkt  MMd  neU'Capc  SMnari  is  tli^  «ilt«ge  df 
Ii»t8«artl,*ar'whic*>ai*sm*'salt'««rk9.  To 
Ifce  S.'W.'is  the  village  W'AliiBbliiWi,  near  a 
ismrtrjKWtcaltedlWllaN^lk  ToW  W.-offlre  is- 
^andiandftearto  the  doast,'is  thero(ik  tfrVMttttr, 
"which  'has -a  wnall  creek  ahdandhorihg-grotind. 
Entirely  tb  the  S.  oftheiJlaBd  is  the  villagfe  (ff 
iCMeri;'  aid  to  the  N.-,  a-Httfe' inland,  is  that  of 
Lithakia.  These  t»o  'vill*ges  art  iieara  road 
•oalled  ipoit 'Chieri,  formed  hy  the  small  island  of 
-Marat^onisi  and  two  ^fmiill  rbcfcs,  one^o  the  N. 
and  the  onfier  to  the  S.  W.  'To  the  W.  of  Lithakia 
*•  the  village  <>f  Agala,  ■  near  to  an  inlet;  Rom 
the  liarbour  of  Ohiferi  the  coast  ranges  to  fte  E. 
'« ftr  <as  Cape  Vaailikb,  and  opposite  to  this 


bvGoogle 


CBAP.  XI.3         mi  IONIAN  MLAlfM.  40*  . 

pott  of  tfc«  coast  is  the  nail  idand  of  Feloeo. 
Od  the  otber  tide  pf  Cape.VaiUUdo  is'  Aootfaer 
bad»eur  not  veiy  def^,  and  formed  iH|r  the  la£* 
«ercapeflndtbepettitofMadiHiitadi-Sb>po,aad 
ia43iii  hacbour  is  a  snudi  isiand  near  to  tke  shonh 
la  Ancwtd;  4iaies  t^e  island  of  ZfHite  also  iroii*- 
laiDc4  the  caty  sf/ Arcadia,  wiiiofa  a4)pearB  ta 
iavo  been  eituated  vkac  tbs  ftumch  Jif .  Ma^ 
dvniladi^sopo  novaUnds,  And  c^led  Panagik 
til  Skopai.  in  ^eKteotr&of  the  iaiaad  aia  the 
only  rmiiet  it  ceaUini.  and  wiudh  'discharges 
•Utif  iBito  the  jea  aifir:  die  cafy,  is  thje  village  of 
Moliiuuloi '  Tbe^lafa  extCfBding  firotn  MeUtudo 
a«d2a»te,^  fiuttaUttSMkiaj  tfl  tol^EatiJy  ir^ 
tftibii-vtttttd,  ikit  tjte  feraaimdcc  of  the  idand  ia 
«tat  m  ;9indt  so*  >  ^[Kic  icUi^  prodndtioiu  of  the. 
Idxadj-arc  wine,jiiiivs8,iiiid.frcHtB. 

In  Aont  of  lbs  gulf  <of  AncAdiaare  the  small 
ulandB  of  StriysU  or  andendy  Skrofhadx.  The 
dao^t  «f  Ahem  coBtaiUs  a  mooBBteFy  dedicated 
to  dn  'Redaamer.  lEhe  «inalleat  is  nothing  but 
«Todc,anl:tic  otjwr  two Ibraa  a  species  of  faaft- 
•boiUr  Ibr  Anuil  orfA. 

tOedgo,,  ibiMMitly  Cythera,  <tb«  last  of  4b& 
£evc&  Xdnaao  I^ttds,  is  wtnaCed  five  miles  B.  of 
^csibHid  cf  JSerrl,  and  u£.  S.  £.  of  Cape 
J^o.  ItiilT-miks  loiigfit>ntK.'W.  toJS.£., 
aArndtsinde,  and  about  af  in  cirenni&t-Qiice. 
:3Bie  mod  aartbcai  point-is  Ci^£psti,&tiii«ffy 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


4M  tm  TOKUN  nuuros.      [catp.  zz. 

aUed  PlatMtmtutt  and  on  its  exttendty  ituds 
«  chi^.  To  the  S.W.o(^09ite  to  another 
paint  is  a  nx^  known  by  the  name  of  the  island 
of  Flatanos.  Thne  miles  to  the  S.  near  to  a 
mbbU  ptHt  is  the  chiuch  of  St  Kicfaolas  di  Mu- 
dari,  standiag  near  a  torrent.  At  four  miles 
distance  to  dw  S.  we  find  C^  Liado,  opposite 
to  which  are  three  small  islands  called  Deer 
Uands  (ElafAonina}.  From  thence  to  Cape 
TroAilo,  one  of  the  southern  points  of  the 
isUiid>  the  distance  ia  six  miles  S.E.  The  otiier 
■ondiern  point,  nttiatcd  four  miles  £.  of  the 
above,  is  called  Ci^  Kiqtello;  and  between 
these  two  points  a  snuUl  harbour  (^)en8,  at  the 
bottom  of  whidi,  on  the  dedivify  of  a  mountain, 
is  the  small  town  of  Kapsali  containing  about 
4000  souls,  which  has  succeeded  to  the  ancient 
Cythera.  The  fiirt  is  to  the  S.  W.  on  the  sea- 
iliore  and  at  the  mouth  of  a  torrent  Four  miles 
K.of  Kapsati,and  near  the  sources  ttf  the  abovo 
torrent,  is  the  vilh^  of  Fotamos,  formerly 
Seandea.  Between  this  viUage  and  Kapsali  wa 
discover  the  ruins  of  the  temple  of  Venus  Cy- 
therea.  In  fr<mt  of  the  harbour  and  at  three 
miles^tance  ^ ffae  insulated  rock  called  Ai^ 
or  the  Zgg ;  and  oppos^e  to  Cape  Tradnlo  a 
anodwr  similar  to<^  To  the  S.  E.  of  Cape 
Ks(>eUo,  and  at  two  miles  distance,  are  the  tm> 
rodcs  called  Ku[diDnina  or  the  •Baskets.    AAer 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


eaAPiXj.2      THE KmiAN  uumM.  40S 

pasting  the  latter  cspe  the  coast  siretdies  to  tbc 
N.  for  the  space  of  about  five  miles,  and  after- 
wards turns  to  the  £.  for  about  two  miles  swwew 
lliis  bend  forms  a  kind  of  harbour,  called  port 
St.  Nicholas  or  Avlemona.  To  the  N.  of  this 
harbour  is  a  fort  called  Psleo-Kastro,  near  to'aa 
inlet ;  and  this  fijrt  occufnes  the  ground  of  the 
Menelw  urb*  and  portu*  of  the  ancients.  Not 
fitr  from  thence  are  the  rocks  called  Dragonere. 
After  passing  point  AvlemtHia  ^e  coast  irr^^- 
lariy  ranges  to  the  N.  W.  as  &r  as  Cape  Spati, 
and  is  steep  and  rugged,  and  in  this  quarter  to 
the  N.  of  Paleo-Kastro  are  the  rocks  of  Sidero. 
The  island  of  Cerigo  is  l»rren  and  little  culti- 
vated, and  consequently  is  in  want  of  wood  as 
well  as  all  kinds  of  provisions. 

Since  Frevesa  no  longer  belongs  to  Uw 
Seven  Islands,  and  consequently  since  the  navi- 
gation and  egress  of  the  gulf  of  Arta  has  be- 
come entirely  fi'ee  to  All  Facha,  the  island  of 
St  Maura  has  acquired  an  importance  it  did 
not  before  possess.  .  It  is  at  present  a  station 
absolutely  necessary  to  observe  his  movements 
in  this  quarter,  and  to  cover  and  defend,  in 
case  of  war  or  the  diead  of  hostilities  on  his 
part,  the  interior  navigation  of  the  islands.  As 
long  as  the  station  of  St.  Maura  is  occupied,  and 
a  cruizing  post  established  between  this  island 
and  Pax6,it  is  Impossible  for  any  armed  vessel 
s 

D,j,l,z<»i:,.,  Google 


406  fSB  ifmuv  isLAjms.      [chap.  zx. 

tU  come  oat  cf  llw  cioimel  of  Frevesa.  I'bas 
channel,  bendcs^  is  not  very  deeps  kq^  eren  a 
corvette  <^  90  gaa»  oanaot  pass  thrcagfc  it, 
unless  it  is  in  baHast  a&d  with  \et  coniMas  tiken 
ent.  Indeitd  the  Btsallest  obfitaclu  prerait  a 
tnaneeune  of  thJi  ttimA. 

The  iitond»  <tf  Zante  and  Cephailonia  posecss 
{he  same  advantages  i^  positioft  wilk  i^aid  to 
the  gul&  of  Patras  and  Lepento.  Ffon  titt 
Curaolari  Ii^nds  and  ptvt  i^tala,  aa  £ir  a»  the 
castle  ot  Rounelhi  ntuaied  at  the  entraticc 
of  the  Dardanelleff,  a  line  of  sbo^  strctche* 
along,  occupjntg  one-half  of  the  gulf  of  Patras^ 
and  compels  vessels  going  in  or  out  to  slcei  near 
Capes  Kapro  and  Papas.  They  »e  twablc  to 
reach  the  high  sea,  nnlees  by  pawing  athei  bft 
tween  Cephi^ouia  sbA  St.  Maura,  between 
Ceph^nia  and  Hin^,  or  betwecA  Ce^takpint 
and  the  Morea  in  iront  of  Zante,  sad  even  ^ 
proachtng  Cape  Korogra  effing  to  a  hiddes 
ledge  of  rocks  situated  two  w  ^rec  miJes  to 
the  W.  of  Cape  Toraese.  It  is  consequently 
impossible  jbr  them  to  esci^  the  vigilaace  ef 
one  of  the  stations  established  at  po#t  Viscardo, 
at  Zante,  or  Vathy. 

The  iskndof  Cerigo,  which  prodneee  little  m 
nothing,  had  oflly  been  preserred  by  the  Vme- 
tians  as  a  place  of  conreineDce  fi»  tbeJt-  1'essels 
to  touch  at,  and  as  s  kind  c^  vidette  witb  re- 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


CHAf .  XI.]         Wi  IWIAN  W<AKB&.  40? 

OQ  with  itq^ivjty,  «9  wtill  *a  of,  t|^e  qavigatiQn  of 
th«  gulfs  of  N^pol)  and  ]Egina,  ai^d  evefi  of  S«< 
Ionics.  It  is  hpwever  pece»8*iry!,  for  ^he  ^^cup^y 
^  the  e^kflaHjtijicjitiqiw  ^<?m  Zante  tp  Ce^igq, 
tp  have>q;Wt|Minedifttp  tq4chiflg,pIaoe,  JQ  co^*-. 
WqHpqqqiqf  the  diffieyl^  fr^uefltly  «perif»M^ 
by  the  wn^l  Gfeek  vesseja  in  (doubling  Cape« 
GaUo  atul  Mfttsp^R.  TMs  w%  ther^^asoD  that 
made  the  Venetians  so  tenacious  in  retaining 
Modon  and  Coron,  and  led  them  to  make  such 
great  sacrifices  in  order  to  retake  Navarin.  The 
latter  port,  whose  configuration  is  found  an- 
nexed to  the  map  which  accompanies  these 
Memoirs,  is  much  more  useful  and  advantage- 
ous than  the  two  others,  as  well  by  its  size  as 
the  goodness  of  its  anchorage.  It  is,  indeed, 
true  that  it  possesses  no  easy  communications 
by  land  with  the  reniainder  of  the  Morea,  but 
in  the  light  of  a  naval  station  it  affords  all  the 
advantages  that  could  be  desired. 

In  conformity  to  the  returns  presented  to  the 
French  Governor-general  in  1807,  thfe  total 
population  of  the  Septinsular  Republic  at  that 
period  amounted  to  a  little  more  than  200,000 
souls,  distributed  in  the  following  proportions : 
Corfu,  60,000;  Cephalonia,  60,000  j  Zante, 
40,000  f  St.  Maura,  20,000 ;  Cerigo,  1 0,000  j 
Thiaki,  8000  j  and  Pax6, 8000.   From  the  above 


DiailizodbvGoOglc 


408  TUB   lOHIAM   [SLAlfSS.  [cHAT.  XI. 

period  no  emigrations  have  taken  place  from  the 
conUnent  which  might  have  added  to  the  popn. 
lation  of  these  islands.  The  town  of  Brevesa 
had  already  been  reduced  to  the  lowest  sta^  of 
decay ;  the  Souliots  as  well  as  the  inhabitanta 
of  Agioi-Saranda  were  no  longer  on  the  con- 
tinent ;  wherefore  the  whole  at  the  independent 
population  of  the  Epirus  was  at  that  time  de- 
stroyed or  driven  away  to  the  Ionian  Uandi. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAPTER  ;tll. 

Mmmeri  and  Omracier  qf  the  lomam. — /«. 
JltKiKe  ^  the  Political  Vicistttuiks  which  the 
Icmen  Islandt  have  experienced,  on  the  Educa^ 
turn  of  the  Inhabitants  as  well  as  the  Public 
JUind.— Commerce  of  Corfu  and  of  Cephahma* 

X.  HE  manners  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  loniad 
Islands,  and  particularly  of  those  six  which  are 
situated  at  the  issue  of  the  Adriatic  Sea,  are  a  . 
mixture  of  Greek  and  Italian.  The  long  resi- 
dence of  the  Venetians  in  these  idands  and  the 
unceasing  efforts  of  their  government  to  de> 
stroy  all  spirit  of  nationality  among  the  inha* 
bitants,  must  necessarily  have  produced  a  widt 
and  deep  impression.  The  Italian  w  rather  the 
Venedan-  language  having  become  that  of  tSi 
the  public  acts,  as  well  as  of  the  bar  and  pulpi^ 
was  also  soon  adopted  in  private  societies.  The 
Venetian  manners  brought  there  by  the  pro> 
consuls- as  well  as  their  subaltern  agents,  and 
which  it  became  requisite  ibr  the  natives  to 
adojpt,  wore  soon  rendered  habitual  to  those 
who  were  in  direct  intercourse  with  these  littk 


_  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


410  THfi  lOHIAH  ISLAKbS.        [CHAF.  XII. 

despots,  and  became  general  tiirough  a  spirit  of 
flattery  or  imitation  among  those  ^fho  formed 
part  of  the  most  distinguished  class,  or  who 
sought  to  associate  with  theoi.  It  was  par- 
ticularly in  the  towns  where  this  denationalisa- 
tion, if  I  may  be  allowed  the  term,  was  rendered 
&e  moFB  Doftipkte.  This  msy  be  pictured  in  a 
word  by  saying,  that  the  towns  of  loim  are 
known  to  any  one  who  haa  inhabited  Vittkft  or 
any  other  town  of  the  Venetian  continent.  Jn  the 
country  the  Grecian  manners  have  been  much 
better  preserved,  and,  with  the  exception'  of 
lome  slight  modifications,  are  naarly  similar  to 
those  we  have  described  among  the  Groek  in- 
bfUutanti  o£the  neighbouriog  continent. 

The  same  may  ajao  be  saidof  drtM  and  uMge9> 
In  tjie  towas.  mid  even  in  the  country,  th$  per- 
tons  who  a^re  at  any  conaideration  have  «»■ 
taidy  Adopted  the  £uropesa  dress,  a»  wieU  8»  all 
the  customs  of  coDtioeotal  society:  In  timr 
bouses  we  find  the  sane  style  of  fumitwe  uwd 
in  Venice }  the  people  have  been  in.fjl»e  sane 
hakiU»  of  having  their  asaetoJliUes  and  ^atioi ;  in 
short,  nothing  to  be  seen  aaiong  tbem  recalls  to 
one's  mind  that  they  are  Greeks,  unless  it  is  that 
they  use  this  laogmage  to  speak  to  their  scnwateor 
to  the  country-people  vith  ^ow  they  may  have 
busineas.  Iliey  have  retained  nothv^  of  their 
ancestors  but  their  pawm  %  shows  and  eifr 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


aup.  xn.3     THB  uhhah  lacANDf.  41 » 

hibkieor,  by  Trhich  the  VemetUaa  were  equal^ 
distingniahcd.  At  Coda  there  vaa  a  tderably 
^ood  opera,  which  sastained  itself  eren  is  time 
1^  vai ;  bat  att  wm  in  Italiaii,  aad  no  pablie 
estaUiahaKnt  of  tkis  kind  induced  then  to  re- 
member that  Greek  was  a}so  the  hungoage  of 
poetrj  and  of  miuii:-  in  the  eoontry  and  more 
espedolly  out  of  C^rfii^  the  Greefc  dsess  is  noie 
gtneraiij  used,  but  with  s  modification  which 
easily  diafcioguBfaes  the  loaians.  They  haire 
adopted  the  cuetna  of  wearing  cravata,  aadi 
Hibstituted  the  hat  for  tiic  kalpak  or  taQ-cap 
used  by  the  people  erf"  the  Continent.  Manr^  of 
them  abo  have  exchaaged  thdr  sandals  Sot 
ahocs  with  l|iicld*s. 

We  have  already  had  occanon  to  notice  tibat 
the  Dteasuiea  of  the  Venetian  goveimneni  Ihr 
the  purpose  of  stiftbig  all  national  spirit  amoog 
the  lanians,  and  eonrertiog  them  iato  passive 
si^ijecta  of  the  rollDg  power,  had  been  extended 
eveD  to  the  pabbc  edncaiicm,  wluch.  the  loniasn 
were  only  allowed  to>  receive  in  Venetzaa 
schools,  where  their  natural  love  ^r  study  led 
them  in  search  of  knowledge.  We'  have  a^ 
shown  that  the  senate  c£  Venice,  in  order  to 
destroy  a*  mu^  as  possiUe  all  emniatioa  of 
those  branches  tnefiil  to  society,  had  adopted 
the  plan  of  adtaitting  tlie-  itmiana  tft  dae  degree 
e£  dDctoc  in  the  jbnc  &culti»,  vi^iflBt  pruriou? 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


41t  THE  lOMIAN  tSUJtm.        {CHAT.XIX. 

academic  studies.  This  last  measure  was  cer- 
tainly the  most  detrimental  to  the  ^(^nw  of 
public  instruction,  since  the  same  protection 
which  hid  bestowed  the  diploma  on  an  ignorant 
man,  soon  brought  him  forwards  to  the  first  of- 
fices  of  the  magistracy,  which  were  refbsed  to 
him  who  had  sought  to  merit  this  distiaction  by 
his  study  and  application.  All  these  obstades 
and  real  disgusts,  however,  had  been  uni^de  to 
withdraw  the  Ionian  youth  from  their  indiBa. 
tion  to  study ;  bat  the  number  <^  those  who  thus 
applied  themselves  sensibly  diminished,  becaose 
in  devoting  themselves  to  the  pursuits  of  learn- 
ing they  could  have  no  other  ot^ect  than  tbeir 
own  private  satis&ction,  unaccompanied  wiUi 
any  real  advantage.  As  soon  as  these  obstacles 
were  removed,  and  the  schools  of  France  and 
Italy  were  open  to  the  Ionian  youths,  they  made 
the  most  rapid  progress  in  all  kinds  of  know- 
ledge and  acquirements  Not  only  abstract 
science,  but  also  moral  learning  as  well  as  phi- 
losophy, had  gained  greatly  by  the  progress  and 
difiuaifH)  of  knowledge,  and  the  display  of 
liberal  {mnciptes,  even  amidst  the  errors  and 
stormsof  the  French  revolution.  They  returned 
to  their  own  houses  rich  in  thecvetical  instruc- 
tion and  abounding  with  useful  knowledge. 
Th^  bad  studied  and  improved  their  time  with 
-an  aptitude  and  perspicacity  with  which  these 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CB&P.Xn.]]       THE  lOHJAH  ISLAMIH.  4IS 

people  are  pecuUuilj  gifted ;  and  were  in  a  aUte 
to  oilighten  their  fdloW'Citizens  and  serve  their 
oountij  vith  advantage. 

Neverdieleia,  amidst  these  real  advantage* 
which  ought  to  have  been  a  source  of  prosperity 
to  the  Ionian  Islands,  and  envied  them  to  place 
&e  basis  of  their  government  on  civil  banaonjr 
and  general  patriotiam,  two  great  inconve- 
niences occurred.  The  first  was  in  the  very 
mamier  in  which  the  lonians  had  obtained  their 
.knowlei^.  Each  one  of  them,  of  his  own 
.  aca»d,  had  made  chwce  of  that  school  where 
his  inclinations,  his  connections,  or  other  cir- 
cumitances,  had  led  him.  He  l^iere  followed 
the  course  of  his  studies,  and  matured  the  ideas 
cf  patriotism  he  mi^t  have  brought  with  him 
fiom  his  nati^  land.  But  these  he  only  ap- 
{^ied  to  tiie  island  on  which  he  was  bom; 
nothing  directed  him  towards  an  oigect  com- 
mon to  all  the  members  of  the  same  republic, 
and  ident^ed  him  with  his  fellow-citizen  of  the 
contiguous  idands.  Even  his  studies,  performed 
in  a  language  foreign  to  that  (rf*  his  country,  in 
hua  suspended,  as  it  were,  that  sentiment  of 
.harmony  which  they  would  have  called  forth  in 
Jus  own  national  language.  In  a  word,  a  large 
.^rtionof  generd  knowledge  has  always  existed 
.•Bo^  the  lonians,  but  none  of  a  national  Jdnd; 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


414  niB  MHIAV  mJUHM.        [CHU.Kn. 

a  «anmitTMe  diare  of  patriottc  idew  wad  ii^txtM, 
tet  no  Inrmoa J  fafanded  with  tlMtui. 

There  was  only  one  taeusof  flenncriying  diii 
JncmrMiMDee,  and  giving  a  proper  Inistotbe 
poUicnind.  Tbis  was  bytfceeBtaMubaiea4:<af 
a  Mvtiofiai  institutioii,  in  which  Oredifvoftsson 
vofAA  bave  been  able  to  teach  the  Idmao  ^uths 
Ae  ltte«atitre  of  ^eir  owa  coasRtry,  that  of  ^ 
reign  natioaa,  as  well  as  all  the  scaeooes  taught 
ia  the  ollker  unurenitMS  of  Europe.  A  scboal 
tif  thit  kind  would  have  behtnged  to  aU  the 
iriaods,  as  well  as  individually  to  eadi ;  and  ia 
a  flhtH-t  time  would  have  caused  ik*  fwy  traoca 
«f  that  disseaiion  to  disappear  «^(^  itffl  enstB 
•mong  the  members  of  the  ancieotidMfc.  TUb 
fropilKHis  resolt  would  have  beea  obtained, 
since  the  whole  of  the  geaewtitoi  cacesmi^ 
thecein  one  »nitorffi  «^catioii,  and  unbilHng 
tiiOie  ^priJBeiples  of  iodivis^ity  which  ihifeti'to 
do  iu)t  «xist,  in  a  few  years  being -caHetfte -fill 
the  inferiar  otifioes  -of -the  magiitrft&^,  JtAaA  have 
•o  direct^a  inflaeniee  on-public  opiaiiwt  iwoidd 
aoon  faa*«{>tttinfie  {»rK:tit:«ia«de8f«blidted.th(ise 
same 'principles  in  nritich  they  had  faM^tniaad^ 
iit  wotidd  Auwe  been  «a»r  to&id  :otit  otopiitc 
prafesBors  dw  sucb  an  cBb^iiishaMOtABioag  Ae 
weU^sfooaed  and  exilightened^GvedcSi  «dM  mp 
jOfft  wanting 4n  loni^anA  two  yoari  woiiM*— P 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


•wUBe6d<  to  onry  it  to  tiie  highest  d^ee  erf'  pn»- 
peHtty.  It  would  iDdeed  bwe  been  necessary, 
^  labst  ill  tive  fint  momeote,  aad  in  order  to 
ftrnvtbe  proper  persons  to  direct  the  weondorf 
•cbooh,  that  every  exteesioti  ^ocdd  bk  g^ren  to 
vuch  an  institutiOB,  ^^id  that  the  diUMem  of  aV 
^Im  clasBes  should  be  invited'  to  it,  witboBt  ttiy 
iFegafd  fe  their  deiciency  ^^Htune.  Altai- 
-tade  Kit  this  kind  ^muld  have  been  the  most 
fi»irei£jltnoaBe  ctf  establishing  pubUt;  «piiHaB. 
■en  an  aM^rm  basis,  by 'multiplyiag  the  dMt»- 
«ioB  iftf  kAcndedg^;  But^tlte  iDnian  goverMBeot 
hu  hit^fto  had  to6  heavy  burdens  to  bear  te 
be  «Me  'tn  meet  Ifte  iMFease  of  miih  'aa  ex- 
penses jl  would  have  been  Tcqmtate  ^  one  ef 
Che  pKnefctnggovenHiseiits'itf'the  Seveto  blandi 
to  aid  and  coBti^bote  in  «o  meritoriotta  an  nm- 
■dertal^g.  Haue^teyaot^oughli-ofiife^  JCave 
the;^  DOt  m^Kid  it  F  Ba^  circamstanoea 'prti^ 
wanted  thtim?  To%beiMi«hreeqiM4ti£ft»the  so- 
2uiA6tt,  rnk'^eferi  to  .Uie past,  is  periiaps  ««# 
amieoeiaat^i  •  tThe  future  win  point  iMU)  to  tw 
^edber  t6e4<rtiiiui  I-slands  -m^  »ijoy  '4be  be- 
-weflls''Of  BDtih  aa  establishment,  and  by  vrhat 
ffleans  they  wil  attain  thaai.  "      -  ' 

The  seeoh^  ifidoAwenieilde  ha6  HriMfl  >otitiiif 
Aeindiscr^t  pttfttheagents  of  the  pfotectia^ 
poMr^havebllhetf  0  hetiA  hi  tfeN»babit#of<  (akingv 
lH>t  bnfy  in'tbeidetailfl  *of>ht  <da^"9^iAiS*m- 

4 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


416  .THE  IOIII4W  ISLANXM.        [cH&T.XU. 

tKHi,  bat  also  in  the  I^p^tive  coucerBs  and 
the  executive  power  of  the  Ionian  repabtic. 
The  efiect  of  this  inteiference  could  not  fiul  to 
vSEend  and  wound  the  joational  ftelings  and  self- 
love,  of  the  inh«bitanti»  as  veil  as  to  keep  a 
great  munber  of  trae  pabiots  at  a  distance^  by 
which  means  the  responsibility  of  the  admino- 
tiation  wu  rendered  illiwire,  in  consequence  of 
its  hanng  passed  into  fiir^n  hajads.  Ilie  diq- 
tant»  though  not  less  inftllible,  effect  of  such  an 
i»ganizMi(m  must  have  been  to  ezeate  a  still 
peater  twpor  in  the  national  mindj  and  to 
lessen  public  instnictioB  by  renderii^  Us  acqui- 
aition  usdess.  In  wdcr  tofulfil  the  real  part  c^ 
protect(ns,  the  Powers  which  have  succesnvely 
occupied  the  Seven  Islands  ou£^t  to  have  been 
satisfied  with  directing  the  local  legislature  in  its 
<^)erationB,  and  preventing  the  influence  of  perty- 
qiirit,  evm  of  those  who  had  eoveredthenaselves 
with  the  cloak  of  absolute  devoticn  to'  the  pre- 
vaiUi^  Power,  Teq>ectively.  The  eomwiwionor, 
govemor-graera},  or  ntinistcr  plen^tentiary, 
xesidii^  near  the  repubUc»  beii(g  in  &ct  the 
cht^  of  the  executive  power,  posscmed  wft- 
cient  influence  over  the  administration,  without 
|H%tending  to  the  nomination  of  the  various  of- 
fices and  places  i  it  was,«}Ot^h  &x  bim  to  keep 
down  those  individoajB  vho,  betongiiig  to  a  p«1^ 
^enly  of^owd  to  die  views  and  wishes  of  tht 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.  XII.]        THE  lOHLy*   »tAlH».  417 

protecttDg  power,  in  seeking  to  tiiwart  his  mea- 
sures* might  have  brought  real  evils  on  their 
country.  This  supreme  agent,  placed  in  a  si- 
tuation  to  control  all  the  passions  without  yield- 
ing to  any,  b^g  satisfied  torectify*errorB>vhich 
his  position  enabled  him  to  discover  better  than 
the  natives  of  the  country,  and  being  surrounded 
by  men  whose  influence  among  their  fellow- 
islanders  was  founded  <mlj  on  their  talents  and 
patriotism,  might  in  a  few  years  conduct  the 
Ionian  republic  to  the  highest  degree  of  pros- 
perity to  which  its  strength  and  position  enable 
it  to  aqure.  But  it  is  necessary  that  the  choice 
of  such  3  man  should  be  scrupulously  inadO) 
4nd  he  ought  then  to  be  invested  by  his  govern- 
ment with  a  latitude  that  may  ^able  Imn  to  act 
without  tackles,  and  in  conformity  to  a  general 
plan.  Sudi  measures  have  not  hitherto  been 
adopted  by  any  of  the  powers  which  at  separate 
periods  have  held  sway  over  the  neglected  but 
interesting  country  to  which  we  allude. 

It  may  p^baps  appear  astonishing  that  we* 
have  hitherto  said  nothiog  on  the  subject  of  the 
military  forces  of  the  Ionian  Islands.  The  ftct 
is,  they  have  never  had  any  desraving  the  name 
of  national.  The  Souliots,  the  other  Greek  fu- 
gitives of  the  continent,  together  with  the  Qii- 
mariots,  have  always  assembled  in  the  d^mce 
^  Ionia,  and  fhnushed  as  vamy  u  6000  troops. 
Si 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


4U  Tin!  ItMlAH  nitAltlM.       [OKAP.  SIX. 

tegt&itiy  wgaiiiMd  according  to  Hwir  own  dis- 
ciplln^t '  The  AcArnanifttiB  hftve  ftlso  uded ;  in- 
^edd  all  the  Above  troopB  cati  tefve  no  where 
else.  3ut  the  leg;ion  in  which  tbete  bnve  re. 
^ublicfttib  have  been  tinroUed,  and  oalled  the 
Albaaiati  legion,  htut  alw^s  betm  in  the  service 
of  Ftttfi<!e  or  of  ^Mt&i^.  One  (mT  the  moft  e& 
cikcious  UMans  of  roisifig  the  national  r^t  of 
th^Iotiiatt  Islands^  and  <^  teally  oottverting  them 
into  tiU  iftdependtet  and  Bimpty  protected  stftte, 
inch.  In  »h(»t,  gM  ought  to  have  been  the  reeult 
wf  Boleffin  'tffefttieSi  would  have  been  to  Create  a 
vallitdry  force  there  wearing  the  uoiferm  and 
ftilowidg  the  bannen  of  their  oountiy.  T^ 
T!atM\itti  inost  aMuredl^)  would  never  have  en- 
posed  th«  ^rotecttng  povei:  to  danger:  tfaew 
troops  vrould  have  ttemred' the. latter  equally  as 
•ivelf  as  in  their  <ifrti  oobittry,  in  like  manneT  as 
thfr  natidtial  atttiy  of  It^y  oo-operated  in  the 
tibns^  (^  ^rancer  Has  Uki  adoption  of  such  a 
plan  not  been  wifthed^yet  we  might  ask  why? 
'  The  coumetee  of  the  Ionian  Islands  hat  ex- 
peH<^d^>  as  we  havd  b^r«  remarked,  a  great 
iAutilber  of  obMacles,'  through  the  efiitct  of  the 
poMcal  circamstance*  of  Europe,  as  well  u  the 
wars  in^o  which  their  r^tive  situation  has 
drawn  thewi  In  orderj  however,  to  oonvey  a 
correct  idea  of  its  average  extent,  ti  Well  as  Uie 
airtieks  of  which  it  ia  eorapoaed;  we  abatt  het« 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CSAA  Xtl.j        THE  IdNIAN   UXARSfl.  AIG 

quote,  the  BubJstance  of  amenioirofficiall}'  dtdwn 
(Up  by  an  experienced  merchant,  comtnisaioned 
on  tiie  spot  to  collect  all  the  infbrmation  Dec8>< 
siiiy  to  form  the  \xaia  of  a  mote  enlarged  Bystetn 
.-of  mercantile  speculation. 

Tb(j  a^nd  t>f  C<wfu»  as  veil  from  the  qmn- 
titjr  of.  oil  it  [HXiducea  to  itS'  position,  aflbrds 
many  intettstaQg  mteas  of  enterptide..  It  is 
under  these  two  respects  that  this  iaknd  ought 
to  be  considered  ;  and  it  will  be  easy,  in.  ton- 
formity  to  these  obserrations,  to  aipprei^iate  the 
.advantages  thence  to  be  derived  by  ihe  ^rma- 
tion  of  fiuitaUe  establiehnients.  Ita  teaipQratar& 
is  ecJuaJ  to  that  of  the  Morea,  Sicily,  and;  Malt* : 
1^«  heats  ace  excessive  tliere  during  summer, 
and  would  be  inEhpportable  if  tbey  were  hot 
.moderaied  by  the  winds  which  frequently  pre- 
vail iromiihe  N.  W.  The^S.  W.  winds,  which 
niga  in  the  Mediterraaeah  during  winter,  carry 
-Mid  collect  there  a  large  assemblage  of  vapours, 
which  keep  it  covered  with  clouds  for  the 
greatest  part  of  this  season ;  and  it  is  for  this 
reason  diat  rains  and  storms  are  at  that  time 
.AlmMt  coDtimial. '  Nevertheless  water  is  th^re 
extt«mely  scarce :  in  the  island  of  Corfu  only  a 
CfDall  nuflU)^  of  wells  is  to  be  found,  and  the 
inhabitants  of  the  city  are  obliged  to  have  re- 
course to  cistern-water. 

3  E  ? 


3,a,l,zt!dbvGpOgIe 


430  THK  IONIAN  IU.A1ID8.       [^RAT.  Xn. 

The  population  of  the  island  is  not  propor- 
tioned to  its  extent :  agriculture  is  there  much 
•neglected,  and  the  olive  trees  are  even  aban- 
doned to  themselves  without  being  pruned  or 
manured.  If  the  necessary  care  and  attention 
were  paid  to  these  trees,  as  well  as  to  the  pre- 
paration of  the  oil,  the  quality  would  not  only 
be  infinitely  better,  l^t  the  harvest  would  also 
be  more  abundant* 

The  olives  begin  to  ripen  in  the  month  of 
November,  but  do  not  fell  off  till  towards  the 
end  of  December  or  the  beginning  of  January. 
This  is  the  time  when  they  are  gathered;  they 
then  proceed  to  the  mUI  in  April,  and  the 
harvest  is  not  considered  as  entirely  at  an  end 
till  the  month  of  May.  The  purchases  are 
made  in  February,  but  there  are  circumstances 
in  which  they  take  place  six  months  In  advance. 
This  kind  of  speculation  sfGjrds  considerate 
advantages,  but  is  also  subject  to  great  incoai- 
veniences,  and  requires  a  perfect  knowledge  of 
the  inhabitants  of  the  country,  who  are  not  al- 
ways actuated  by  good  feith.  It  is  necessary  to 
advance  them  part  of  the  amount  of  their  oil, 
but  tiie  comparison  of  the  price  of  the  article 
when  these  advances  are  made  with  the  current 
one  when  it  is  delivered  affords  a  profit  of  fixtm 
20  to  25  per  cent. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.Xn.J        TBE  IONIAN  lULANDS.  4S1 

Notwithstanding  the  little  care  the  Corfiots 
take  ID  the  cultivation  of  their  olives,  these 
trees  are  nevertheless  ex^emely  abundant,  aod 
do  not  fail  to  furnish  a  considerable  quantity  of 
oil,  which  is  the  principal  resource  of  the  island, 
and  the  most  interesting  object  of  its  trade.  In 
abundant  years  the  harvest  is  equal  to  1,000,000 
of  jars;  middling  years,  about  700,000 ;  and  in 
the  most  sterile  ones,  500,000. 

The  measure  made  use  of  in  the  deliveiy  of 
oil  is  the  jar  branded  by  government.  Four  jars 
form  a  cask  corresponding  to  the  milleroie  of 
Marseilles,  with  the  advantage  of  three  or  four 
per  cent.  These  operations  may  be  calculated 
in  conformity  to  this  basis,  established  by  re- 
peated experience. 

As  long  as  the  Ionian  Islands  belonged  to  the 
Venetians,  this  oil  was  only  allowed  to  be  sent 
to  Venice,  particularly  in  years  of  scarcity, 
when  the  Venetian  merchants  were  in  the  habits 
of  mixing  it  with  the  oil  of  Apulia.  Three  or 
four  houses  of  Venice,  which  carried  on  this 
trade  exclusively,  fixed  the  prices  of  the  article. 
Ihiring  19  years  the  prices  had  kept  up  from 
40  to  45  Corfu  livres  per  jar ;  but  in  1 803  the 
price  of  the  jar  of  oil  was  fivm  60  to  63  livres. 

TTie  money  current  in  Corfu  possesses  no 
odier  than  an  ideal  exchange,  subject  to  some 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


4aa  nK  IQXUH  nUNDI.        [CBAP.  xn. 

variatiQlis.       Tin    fUloiritag    u   the   aranige 
€«>urae;— ' 

Lit.   A.  af  C01A.- 

Tlie  seqoia,  «r  dueat  of  goU,  9^ 

talui    .        .  .  «■  10. 

Tbe  imperial  talaro  .  .  .  27  a 
The  talftro  of  Vemce  .  .  97  O 
ThefaarddoUarofSpaia  .        .  37    o 

The  Confii  livre  is  rated  at  about  32  VtmA 
centimes,  by  which  it  is  evident  how  mudii  the 
ducat  of  gold,  gains  by  the  above  exc^nge. 
The  oil  is  paid  ibr  in  talari,  at  the  rate  of  %S 
Hvres  ibr  tbe  talaro  of  Venice. 

Since  tbe  year  1802  theoil>trade  of  Corjbhaa 
atsumed  a  much  more  flourishing  aspect,  and 
now  presents  considerable  advantages,  bat  it  re- 
quires local  knowledge  to  collect  in  the  article. 
The  Septinsular  government,  fivim  the  tlbmt 
period,  had  taken  measures  to  &cilitate  thia 
commerce,  and  particularly  shipments  made  to 
the  Italian  continent.  The  custom  of  tbe  Corfii 
nerchants  h  to  receive  their  Amds  tbroii^  Ve. 
nice,  whence  the  captains  bring  them  in  com, 
6ee  of  freight.  It  is  extreniely  difficult  in  tbe 
island  to  Bud  the  means  of  remitting  even  sftiiU 
sums  to  the  continent,  which  renders  tbe  ex- 
ehar^  of  paper  alnnoat  impossible ;  it  is  there* 
fere  necessary  to  Mow  the  «itablidied  cnstoin. 


SiailizodbvGoOglc 


CHAP,  wi-3    WW  miw/i  ;tt«w.  «a 

N^lugg  cap  bft  mpre  detrfnKatal  tban  tp  be 
obliged  to  /emit  by  ^ch  vessel  the  fiinds  requi- 
site for  its  lo^diog  at  Corfu  j  bat  if  the  specu- 
lators would  dispwae  with  th^  peoessity  of  pass- 
ing by  the  way  of  Vepic*,  a  use^uI  measure 
might  be  adopted,  and  this  ia,  to  cause  the 
fiipds  brought  by  oue  vessel  to  serve  for  the 
loading  pf  apother  that  is  to  foUowt  Is 
this  mapner  they  would  always  have  fuode 
ready  to  Improve  the  first  &v(MJTable  (q)pQrtu- 
uity*  which  sever  occurs  at  the  arrival  of  a 
veaseU  op  the  coutrary>  this  droumstauce  al- 
ways raises  the  prices.  Another  meaus  might 
also  be  employed,  if  no  credit  bad  beep  pre- 
viously opened  at  Veaiee,  and  it  should  be  pre- 
^rred  to  s^d  the  funds  by  the  suiie  vessel ;  and 
this  is,  to  compel  the  captain  to  cast  anchor  ip' 
the  port  of  Kassopo,  whence  he  might  remit 
ihis  letter  of  advice  to  his  correspondent,  apd 
only  proceed  on  to  Corfu  when  he  had  received 
an  answer.  This  preeauUop  would  greatly  fecili- 
tate  the  purchases,  which  might  be  made  without 
publicity,  and  at  the  most  advan^eous  prices. 

The  oil  of  a  good  harvest  is  generally  of  a 
quality  suittUile  for  the  manufacture  of  cloths 
and  soap-  Its  colour  is  rather  red  and  trapspa- 
reot,  and  it  is  preferred  to  that  gf  the  neigh- 
bouring islands,  of  the  Morea  and  Cmea,  and 
«veD  of  Apulia,    The  greatest  part  has  usually 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


424  TBB  lOMIAB   ISLANDS.        [CHAP.  XD. 

been  sold  at  Venice,  ^ence  it  hu  been  trans- 
ftrred  to  the  continent  as  eatable  oil. 

The  <h1  produced  in  the  island  of  Corfu  may 
be  classed  under  four  different  qualities.  He 
first  is  eatable  oil,  easily  procured  in  the  good 
years,  and  which  may  be  selected  aimmg  that 
of  the  second  quality,  though  it  bears  a  smali 
advance  in  price.  The  second  is  the  ordinary 
oil  current  in  commerce,  and  is  that  of  which  we 
have  above  spoken.  The  thu^  is  called  kernel 
oil,  because  it  is  produced  through  the  tritu- 
ration of  the  stones  or  kernels,  by  causing  them 
to  pass  a  third  time  through  the  press.  It  is  ge- 
nendly  found  in  a  congealed  state,  and  of  a  co- 
lour bordering  on  chesnut  brown.  This  oil 
being  of  an  inferior  nature,  is  scarcely  service- 
aUe  for  any  other  purpose  than  the  manu&cture 
of  soap,  and  its  price  is  usually  from  40  to  42 
livres  the  millerole,  at  the  first  hand.  The 
fourth  quality  is  called  tmutt  or  morgue.  It  is 
black,  thick,  and  cannot  be  put  into  casks  tilt 
it  has  been  mixed  with  one>third  of  kernel  oiL 
Tlie  price  of  this  quality  is  from  SO  to  32  liyres 
per  millerole. 

Corfu  afibr^  no  other  export  articles  except 
oil  and  s^t  to  those  countries  already  provided 
with  wines,  and  therefore  under  no  necessity  o£ 
goiug  there  in  search  of  this  article.  The 
neighbouring  continent  abounds  with  resources^ 


.  DolizodbyGoOgle 


CHAP.  XII.]        THE   lOKIAIf  I8LAH0B.  4S5 

«faeref(Mre  it  cannot  be  expected  ihat  the  com- 
merce of  this  island  can  long  continue  to  o£^ 
considerable  gain,  unless  it  is  connected  with 
that  of  Albania.  Nevertheless*  warehouses  as- 
sorted with  the  various  artides  of  merchandise 
we  shall  hereto  subjoin  would  gradually  be  ena^ 
Ued  to  effect  good  sales.  Foreign  merchants 
coming  to  establish  themselves  at  Corfu  must 
expect  to  be  thwarted  in  a  variety  of  ways  by 
keen  and  experienced  rivals,  who  for  a  long 
time  have  been  in  the  habits  of  considering 
this  trade  as  their  own  patrimony.  It  is  lodged 
in  the  hands  of  three  or  four  Grreek  or  Jewish 
merchants,  who  are  tolerably  rich,  through  the 
support  of  certain  Venetian  houses,  and  who 
hold  the  other  traders  and  brokers  entirely  under 
their  dependence.  It  would  be  adviseable  for 
some  measures  to  be  adopted,  on  the  part  of  go- 
vernment, to  restrain  the  operations  of  the 
merchants  of  the  Adriatic,  in  order  that  other 
foreign  traders  may  not  be  obstructed  by  their 
influence  in  the  commerce  of  the  islands  of  the 
I^evant. 

Salt-works  are  found  in  the  island  of  Corfu, 
which  have  always  been  an  object  of  the  greatest 
impoituice  to  the  Venetian  government  to  whom 
&ey  belonged.  Their  produce  was  cor  jniedas 
ireU  in  the  Venetian  states  of  th .    ...  iand  as  in 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


Auflriui  ]U>fiDl>ardy.  and  the  latter  governmcat 
gtT«,  IB  exchange  for  these  supplies  of  salt,  men 
eondemned  to  hard  labour,  whom  the  republic 
of  Venice  employed  jn  its  gallieB  and  UKiials. 
When  the  Ionian  jlfJauds  bficame  independent, 
these  salt-works  fell  into  a  state  of  de<Ay  &o» 
vbich  they  have  never  been  raked,  and  9id«M 
the  merchants  of  the  cotihtry  are  both  too  IptOr 
lantand  unenterprisiog  to  undertake  any  sudi 
clQict  of  ppeculatiOD. 

For  the  space  of  sev<eral'  years  theie  sKlt-works 
have  been  rented,  at  the  low  rate  a£  900  Vene- 
tian sequins  per  year,  by  a  eompai^,  ta  wbova 
even  the  attempt  has  been  ruinous.  1^  com- 
pany,  not  possessing  adequate  funds  to  carry  on 
the  operations,  has  only  been  able  to  make  suf^ 
ficient  salt  for  tJie  ednsumption  of  the  country, 
and  a  small  quantity  furnished  to  Albania,  which 
country  is  itself  provided  with  aalt'Wqrks. 

It  would  be  easy  to  point  oat  the  very  conai- 
derable  advantages  to  be  derived  by  i^ioBg  the 
above  salt-works  in  a  state  of  activity,  if  a  cer- 
tain vent  could  only  be  secured ;  which. would 
be  extremely  possible  by  treating  in  a  direct 
manner  with  the  administration  of  AuBtR>LoiB- 
bardy,  that  is,  with  the  contractors  of  Mijui, 
Mantua,  Brescia,  Verona,  &c.  under  a  condi- 
tion to  supply  them  annually  with  14,000  muidi. 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


CIIA&  xn.]       THE  IQKIAW  ItUmOff,  481 

«r  measares  *,  of  salt,  which  might  be  conveyed 
to  Venice  on  the  terms  hereafter  pointed  out. 
The  trifling  sum  of  14>000  talari  vouM  suffice 
to  eomtnence  this  enterprise,  and  even  to  cany 
the  salt-worhs  to  that  degree  of  perfection  of 
which  they  are  susceptible ;  uid  ^m  such  an 
undertaking  great  profits  would  follow. 

Tlie  salt-works  of  Corfu  are  Bituated  in  three 
diffisrent  places,  viz.  at  PotamoSf  Kastrados,  and 
Lefkimo,  or  Dragotina.  Those  of  Potamos  are 
in  a  very  good  state,  through  the  care  taken  of 
them,  previous  to  the  fall  of  the  Venetian  go- 
vernment, by  Mr.  Frangini,  who  had  been  sent 
there  at  the  request  of  Chevalier  Emo.  Mr. 
Frangini,  who  was  a  man  of  talent  and  enter- 
prise, had  been  Professor  of  Mathematics  in  the 
University  of  Padua,  and  afterwards  Preceptor 
«f  the  Prince  Regent  of  Portugal.  The  salt- 
Torka  of  Potamos  have  15  pans  constructed  for 
tiie  purpose  of  prepariog  coarse  salt,  and  their 
produce  is  rated  at  i£0  measures  per  pan, 
leaking  a  total  of  2,^0  measures,  mi  an  average, 
per  year.  This  quantity,  at  the  rate  of  H  ta- 
lari per  measure,  consequently  yields  the  sum 
of  about  7,875  talari.  We  will  compare  thia 
produce  with  the  expenses. 


*  The  muid,  or  moggio,  is  &  meaiurefbr  com  and  ta\t, 
Mrrcgpondhtg  to  about  fire  quarten. — Ta. 


^lailizodbvGoOglf 


428  THE  lONUK  IflLANSS.        [CHAF.Xir. 

Talari. 

The  operations  oF  the  above  ult-worki  require  the 
labour  of  15  worlnnen  daily  during  six  months  ia 
the  year,  at  six  lines  per  day,  malclng  16,200 
livres,  or--------      600 

Forty-five  workmen  fbr  10  days,  whilst  the  pans  an 
cleaned,  at  the  rata  of  10  liTres  per  day,  i,SOO 
lisrei,  or -      166^ 

Four  carts,  wiUi  oxen  and  drivers,  which,  as  pasturage 
is  abundant  near  the  salt-works,  would  only  cost 
per  year    --------      320 

A  workman  to  act  as  inspector,  and  to  receive  at  the 
rate  of  80  talari  pet  month        -       ...     360 

Total  expenKW        -        -  l,446f 
Net  produce  of  aales        -  7>875 

Profit       -         .        -  6,433^ 

The  salt-works  of  Kastrados  are  by  no  means 
in  so  good  a  state  of  repair  as  those  of  Potamos, 
and  it  would  be  requisite  to  expend  one  year's 
labour  to  place  them  in  a  situation  to  afford 
coarse  white  salt^  the  quality  of  which  would 
be  equal  to  that  of  Trapano,  and  Zoara^  in  ^- 
cily.  Practical  calculations  made  on  the  spot 
prove,  that  the  sur&ce  of  a  pan  suited  for  coarse 
salt  to  one  intended  for  line  is  as  so  to  480, 
or  as  one  ia  to  16  j  that  is,  that  the  produce  of 
16  pans  of  coarse  salt  yield  only  the  value  of  one 
pan  of  fine  salt.  As  the  ordinary  salt  annually 
yields  a  produce  of  about  150  measures  per  pan, 
the  SO  pans  belonging  to  the  salt-worlu  of  Ka** 
6 

DiailizodbvGoOglc 


CHAP.Xn.]       THB  lOKUIT  ISLAMDt.  429 

trados  would  thus  jwoduce  4^00  measures,  and 
■ell  for  the  sam  of  15,750  talari,  whikt  the  ex- 
pense of  preparation  is  as  follows: — 

TaUri. 
In.  Twenty  workmen  dail)'  for  rix  monthi,  at  >ix 

livrapm-  day,  or        > 860 

Sd.  NtDet)r  workmen  during  15,  days,  at  10  linu  per 

day  -        -        -        - 500 

3d.  Four  carts  and  oreraeer    -        -        -        •        -        680 

Total  ezpensea        -        -     1,980 
Net  produce  of  sales        -   15)750 

Profit        -       -   1,8770 

For  the  first  year  it  would  be  requisite  to  cal- 
ctdate  on  a  disbursement  of  6000  talari,  at  least, 
for  the  aalt-works  (^  Kastrados,  in  wder  to  place 
them  in  a  situation  to  afford  the  comparative 
produce  we  shall  here  sulgoia.  Supposing  even 
that  for.  the  first  year  no  more  than  600  or  700 
measures  can  be  obtained  there£'om,  and  which 
would  always  yield  the  sum  of  2000  talari,  a  de- 
ficit of  4000  only  would  then  be  carried  to  the 
produce  of  the  second  year,  sod  aflerwards 
completely  covered. 

The  ground  occupied  by  the  salt-works  of 
Xiefkimo  being  much  more  extensive  than  that 
of  the  other  two,  the  Venetians  had  been  ena- 
Ued  to  carry  them  as  high  as  800  pans  produ- 
cing fine  -S^t.    For  the  first  year  it  would  be  re- 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


•490  rta  lONnv  otunH.     [ouf.  zs. 

quisite  to  contmue  the  operiitiOfls  9£  tlwR 
workft  oa  the  sanle  footing,  in  order  to  obtuo 
sufficient  Ainda  td  meet  the  disburseiaents  re- 
quisite for  repairs.  The  produce  in  fine  saJt 
would  be  at  the  rate  of  flooo  nira«ireB>  which, 
at  three  talari^  would  yield  6000  tahui.  The 
second  year  it  would  be  requisite  to  convert  the 
800  pans  'of  fine  salt  into  '50  of  a  coarse  and 
jvhite  quality^  which  would  occasion  an  expense 
of  8000  tdari.  The  third  year  only  the  com- 
plete produce  would  be  obtained,  and  amount 
to  7,500  measures,  yielding  the  sum  of  S8,250 
talari.  The  expenses  for  this  third  year  would 
in  that  case -be  u  fi^ws  :•-<»: 

lit'  Fi^y  UibvuMirE,  at  km.  Jfvt^  ftt  day,  iRr" 
six  moDttu     -        .     '  -         .... 

Sd.  One  hundred  and  fifty  labourers,  at  10  liyres 
per  day,  for  IS  days         -        -        .        . 

Sd.  Twenty  caiti  and  their  drirart,  at  IS  Umi 
ptt  day        -        -         -         -        i      .  -        . 

4th.  Repairs  of  carte  and  tooli     -'       -       ,•     .   - 

'5tb.  OvcTEeer  of  work*,  at  30  talari  per  moutli 

€tb.  A  sub-lnipector,  at  20  ditto 

Total 
Produce  of 


N«ti»«6t       -        -   81,11S| 

In  order  to  establish  a  bahmce  of  the  whole 
profits  to  be  derived  &om  the  enteipriR  of  the 


3,a,l,;t!dbvG00glc 


eSAFi  Xn^J       THE  lOMIAH  IgMNDS*  4SI 

salt-works  of  the  island  of  Corfu,  we  Bhall  pre- 
sent an  account  of  their  active  and  passive  state 
.duriog  the  period  of  the  first  three  years»  at  the 
end  of  which,  being  establiafaed  on  one  uDi&rm 
footing,  they  would  yield  a  regular  and  constant 
produce. 

)        ■       '    EXPENSES. 


_  'l     of  repair,  w 

PWamos.^     A       J- 

1     the  ordinar 

t--  three  jea'rs 


"Tbeae  B^t-W9r)a  being  in  agpod  ctfite 
.  would  require  do  other  Uutn 
inary  disbursemenU,  which  in 
^eara  would  amount  to    - 

Talari. 
f  For  the  Stsf  ynr  the  expeDS«i 
„         .   -1     oftwp^woiridBiilouiitto  -  6,000 
,  .,,.  .        jForthe^ondsiacLtbirdyeBrthe 

.  ^    ordioaiy  expenses  would  be  3,960 

The  first  year  the  ordinary  es- 
penseB,  on  the  present  foot- 
Ing,  may  be  CEtimated  at      '  5,000 
Lefklmo.'  The  aecdnd  year's  espensei  of  ^18,1SS^ 

rcpain  would  be         -        •  B;000 
The  third  year  the  ordinary  ck- 
L    pensea  would  be         -        -  5,1SS^ 

Add  for  tbs  rent  of  the  salt-woriis,  which,  through 
competitioD,   may  ascend  to. 3,000  talari  per 


Total  expenses 


.  41,493^ 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


-I 


THE  lOKtAH  ISLAMPg.        [CBAP.  XIX. 

PKODtJCE. 

TtJari. 

The  produce  of  three  yean,  by  die  sale 

-  23,625 

Talari. 
fThe  firat  year  the  produce  ^ 

SMtrtdoL-^     would  be        -  -     2,000  S  SS,SO0 

tof  the  Hcond  and  third      -  81.50oJ 

The  first  year's  sales  would  1 

p^iuc         -        -        -  6^ 

The  secood  year  noUung.  | 

The  third  year  -        -        -  26,250  J 


Total  produce        -        -   89,375 
Deduct  ezpenu*  -       -  41,483^ 

Netpwfit        -        -  47,941  J 

After  the  said  terni,  the  aggregate  produce 
of  the  above  salt-vorks  would  regularly  be 
14,250  measures  per  annum,  corresponding  to 
49,875  talari.  Deducting  from  this  sum  the 
amount  of  about  12,000  talari  for  the  ordinary 
expenses  of  the  various  operations,  as  veil  as 
the  rent  and  other  incidental  chains,  a  net 
annual  profit  of  S7,5O0  talari  would  still  remain, 
iiowever,  in  conformity  io  what  we  have  already 
mentioned,  this  profit  can  only  be  secured  by  a 
regular  vent  and  consumption  for  the  article  in 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


ciui>..xn.]      Tn  unriAH  launn.  4M 

qncRtioD ;.  and  ibr  this,  li»lijf  tnd  particalariy 
^  IdDgdom  of  Aastriao-LombBrdy,  vouM 
perbap»  be  the  most  aaittable,  in  connqncace  of 
dvir  wants  and  greater  fiKtiities  of  amreyance. 
It  wtnild  therefi>i«  be  requistte  Sx  die  coni 
aetciai  house  ot  company  undertakiBg  die 
qiecalBtioii  of  carrying  on  tbo  abova.  wn^ 
to  lecure  a  market  fiir  tiie  anpidies  in  the  abovt 
countries,  by  means  of  permaQent  contract^ 
wbtdi  would  by  no  means  be  dificuh ;  and  in 
oooformity  to  this  measure  tiie  coDditions  t£ 
not  m^ht  be  regulated  with  the  Ionian  govern* 
nenL  The  longer  die  term  of  tW  confraok 
■Bade  in  Italy,  the  greater  and  more  aedire 
votdd  be  the  proportion  of  profit  It  is  still 
Decenary  to  obierrer  thfit  a  rainy  year  may 
greatly  diaumsh  or  eren  destroy  the  fvoduct 
of  the  salt  works  i  this  circumstance  is,  however, 
extrenwly  rare,  and  indeed  scarcely  within  the 
memory  of  man,  though  it  ought  nevertiicleas 
to  be  perfectly  foreseen.  It  is  for  this  reason 
geoerally  consideTed,  that  the  enterprise  ought 
not  to  comprehend  a  lease  of  a  duration  undar 
15  years. 
The  oQorse  and  white  salt  is  usually  sold  at 
.  Corfu  at  the  rate  of  three  talari  and  a  half  pet 
measure,  and  was  commonly  conveyed  from 
thence  to  the  pent  of  Goro  at  the  month  of  tite 
Bd,  on  m  frc^t  of  three  talari  per  measure-   It 

D,a,l,;t!db.;G00glc 


434  THE   IONIAN  ISLANDS.        [cBAP.  XU. 

vould,  therefore,  be  requiste  to  sell  it  in  Italy 
ftt  the  r^te  (^  six  talari  and  a  half,  or  at  least  at 
six ;  and  smalt  vessels  can  easily  be  found  at 
Corfu  to  efiect  the  shipment.  Ilie  Neapolitans 
and  Cephalonians  are  capable  of  furnishing  as 
many  vessels  as  might  be  required;  and  for- 
merly as  they  were  liable  to  be  captured  by  the 
Barbary  Powers  they  were  insured  at  a  pre- 
mium of  about  three  per  cent. 

The  population  of  the  island  of  Cephalonia 
is  estimated  at  about  60,000  souls,  divided  into 
two  districts,  viz.  that  of  Lixuri,  and  the  other 
of  Argostoli,  in  which  latter  all  the  authorities 
leaide.  We  have  already  stated  the  division  of 
the  island  into  cantons.  The  port  of  Argostoli 
is  one  of  the  best  in  all  the  MediterraneaOi 
and.  vessels  anchor  there  on  a  good  bottom*, 
and  under  a  perfectly  good  shelter  fi-om  bad 
weather.  At  the  entrance  of  the  channel, 
behind  the  roclvs  called  Guardiani,  vessels  may 
dso  cast  anchor  on  very  good  ground ;  but  they 
are  not  secured  &om  the  inclemency  of  the 
wind. 

The  island  of  Cephalonia  is  very  rich ;  a 
great  number  of  the  inhabitants  follow  a  sea- 
fearing  life  and.possess  about  250  merchant  ves- 
sels which  navigate  and  trade  in  the  Mediter- 
ranean, and  particularly  in  the  Levant  The 
different  articles  composing  die  productions  of 


_,.,l,z<,i:,.,G00glf 


CHAP.  -Xllt]      TH£ .  lOKtAN  ISLANDS.  4SJ 

the  country,  are  exported  to  the  gulf' of  Venice 
and  Apulia.  The  wealth  of  the  inhabitants 
consists  in  lands,  vessels,  and  money. .  Their 
commerce  extends  only  to  the  navigating  by 
what  is  called  a  tioUs,  or  charter-party,  and  to 
the  exportation  of  their  own  produce.  Before  the 
decline  of  the  republic  of  Venice,,three  commer- 
wal  houses  existed  in  Cephalonia  which  received 
commissions  from  Zante  for  account  of  Venetian 
firms,  or  received  direct  consignments  from  the 
latter;  but  this  trade  .had  degenerated  into  a 
species  of  robbery,  and  was  usually  followed  by 
fi^ulent  bankruptcies.  At  present  this  order 
of  things. no  longer  exists,  and  for  several  years 
no  other  commission  house  has  been  known  ex- 
cept  the  firm  of  Ch^di  and  Mataxa.  The. 
merchants  are  only  allowed  one-sixth  of  a  sequin 
in  each  hundred  on  the  amount  of  purchases 
made ;  but  they  have  only  to  purchase  the  arti- 
cles in  the. state  in  which  they  are  found,  and  to 
hold  them  ready  for  delivery  on  the  arrival  of 
the  vessels. 

The  productions  of  Cephalonia  are  raisins, 
oil>  wine,  honey,  oats,  and  vetches,  hare-skins, 
linseed,  citrons,  oranges,  a  small  quantity  of 
brandy,  cotton,  and  lamb-skins.  We  will  point 
out  the  respective  quantities  of  these  articles 
furnished,  and  the  most  advantageous  seasons 
2f2 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


THE  lOMUH   HUNUt'       [OIUP.  tXC* 

^  are  to  be  gives  for  tbor 
purehiaCB. 

In  productive  years  rainns  have  amounted  to 
SfiOOfiOO  or  6,000,000  pounds'  vdght,  and  are 
of  a  qnalit^r  mperior  to  those  of  Hat  other  islaodB 
and  erea  of  the  Morca.  The  ga^ienog  geot- 
hMj  takes  place  in  the  mondas  of  August*  and 
the  orders  to  buy  ought  to  be  ^vea  in  Juite,^ 
so  as  to  secure  those  advantages  wloch  are 
not  met  vith  at  a  btter  period.  After  the 
aonth  of  October  is  over  aooe  r»naia  in  the 
market. 

The  oil  does  not  enjoy  tibe  same  reputation 
rclativdy  vith  regard  to  its  quaHfey  i  it  is  in  getu- 
»1  l^ick  and  green.  When  die  harvest  ia  good, 
the  island  usually  preduce^from  25,000  to  30,000 
cai^s,  among  which  9QOOor4!aoo  maybe  found 
itf  tolerably  good  c^Ue  oil.  The  price  of  the 
tvo  qualities  is  thjc  rarae ;  and  comniwons  an 
to  be  giren  ia  the  month  of  September  or 
October, 

The  yintage  ordinarily  furniahea  abettt  30,000 
<v&S,D0Qcasksof  wine,  Venetian  measare.  It  is 
Prided  into  tiro  qnafities,  red  and  vhite,  and 
in  general  they  are  good.  The  red  win^  of 
which  the  quanti^  nsually  amounts  to  about 
lS,ooocadEs,i3dryKid9pii!ituoHS.  Of  the  ^,000 
remandng  cajda  of  wfakc  viney  l3,O0O  are  of  a 


J.,r,l,z<»i:,.,G00gIf 


CHAP,  xn.}     THB  icHnur  nLAHIW.  4$7 

BWeet  qoaHty  and  igreoable  taste ;  «nd  tke  ottite 
iooo  are  muscadel,  ctf  whidi  one-third  ia  ex. 
tremely  good  and  the  remainder  more  inftrior,; 
lli^  tw6  firet  qualitiss  improve  by  croning  the 
Ma,  bat  the  third  receivea  injury.  Hie  first  at 
a  seawnable  time  generally  sdUs  ibr  ilx  and  a 
half  piastres  per  ca^. 

On  an  average  SOOO  or  4000  cada  of  brandy 
are  roanaftctared  in  Cephalonia,  which  are  am* 
anned  in  the  nei^boaring  iriandi  and  con- 
tincDt,  and  at  Trieste.  The  ordinary  price  in 
ftom  15  to  10  piastres  per  cask  ;  porchaBei  ax« 
made  io  S^tembn-. 

Sixty  or  e^ty  diomand  weight  of  honey  an 
gennaliy  procured,  a£  aA  excellent  quality  mA 
preferal^e  to  that  of  the  Morea»  and  comparable 
to  the  honey  of  Spain,  llie  proper  season  fot 
going  into  market  is  about  the  month  of  July, 
bitt  it  is  better  to  giw  the  orders  for  pur- 
ehaaes  ia  Jane,  by  which  means  some  advan- 
tages are  teoured.  Tlie  greatest  part  of  thai 
article  is  consumed  in  Venice, 

About  4000  st^es,  Venetian  mcasare,  of  oata 
are  harvested  in  Cephalonia,  and  «Ad  in  tlw 
moB&ofJune.  The  commissions  to  buy  ouglrt 
to  be  given  in  April,  and  the  payments  made  ia 
ready  money.  The  island  also  aSords  4000  or 
JPOOO  B^res  of  vetobes,  whidi  are  sold  ih  A{»il 
and  btispoke  i&  March.  SVom  9000  to  SMO  steres 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


4M  TUB    lOmAN   ISLANDS.        [CHAP.  XIU 

of  Unseal  an  lUCe^se  harvested,  in  the  month 
of  June,  and  the  price  is  from  six  to  seven  bard 
piastres  per  stere. 

Hare-skins  are  to  be  ibund  in  great  abun- 
dance, hut  the  Cephalohians  have  never  con' 
verted  this  into  a  regular  trade.  It  is  the  sailors, 
who  generally  purchase  them  as  adventures  to 
sell  at  Corfu.  As  many,  however,  as  3000 
jueces  might  be  annually  collected,  at  the  rate 
(^  irom  five  to  seven  paras  each,  equal  to  iabout 
15  or  SS  centimes.  About  5  or  6000  lamb- 
skins  can  also  be  furnished  at  from.  5  to  13 
paras  each,  or  25  to  60  centimes,  in  complete 
assortments.  '  The  'sales  commence  in  the 
month  of  January,  but  the  quality  is  better  in' 
March.  The  chief  proportion  of  this  article 
is  conveyed  to  Trieste  and  Senigaglia. 

The  island  of  Cephalonia  moreover  fiimishes 
about  100,000  pounds  of  cotton  of  a  very  su-, 
perior  quality.  This  article  is  parUy  consumed 
in  the  local  manu&ctures,  though  a  consider^ 
able  share  of  it  is  exported  to  Zante,  whertt  it. 
is  wove  into  goods'  suitable  for  turbans  -which 
are  then  shipped  to  Constantinople.  Thia.'cot* 
ton  is  of  an  extremely  fine  staple,  and  when 
well  manu&ctured  is  equal  to  the  best  India 
muslins.  As  much  as  20,000  or  ^5,00O  pounds 
might  be  exported,  and  uideed  <tbe:  growtlx 
might  be'gr^tly  encouraged.    Thci-iavoi^t^^ 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.  XII.]        THE  IONIAN  ISLAND*  439 

season  is  at  the  end  orAugusC,  and  the  'price 
from  '20  to  S3  pafaa*  or  oDe  franc  15  cen- 
tidies,  per  pound  of  IS  full-ounces*  Venetian 
weight. 

'  A  large  quantity  of  lemons  are  also  collected, 
and  pass  over  to  Trieste  and  the  other  isl^ds. 
The  most  favourable  season  is  in  the  month  of 
October,  and  the  price  is  from  four  to  five  hard 
dollars  per  thousand.  They  are  shipped'  in  bulk 
and  without  any  attention,  for  which  reason  a 
great  number  are  spoiled.'  If  more  care  was 
taken  in  putting  them  on  board,  the  profits 
would  certainly  be  more  considerable.  The 
lemons  are  gathered  after  the  first  nuns  in 
autumn. 

After  the  gathering  of  the  common  raisins, 
that  of  the  dry  muscadels  takes  place,  the  pro- 
duce of  which,  when  the  season  has  been'  good, 
ascends  as  high  as  100,000  pounds.  This 
branch  of  commerce  sometimes  presents  con- 
siderable profits.  When  commissions  have  not 
been  received  from  Venice,  these  profits  are 
equal  to  SOO  per  cent. 

Some  considerable  manu&ctures  of  cotton 
cloths  are  carried  on  in  Cephaldnitf,  of  a  coarse 
quality,  and-  consumed  either  in  the  island  or 
the  neighbouring  ones.  Among  these  cloths  is 
a  8pe<^es  of  coarse  nankeen  which  the  Venetians 
)iad  dye4  of  blue  colour  an<]  afterwards  qsed  for 


3,a,l,zt!dbvGd0glc 


440  mn  MwiAM  nLAXM.     [ch4p.  ntr* 

th«  dodiiiig  of  tbeir  troopi.  T'wo  manu&ctnnts 
of  corrals  are  also  cu-iied  on.  The  an>niatio 
kerbs  and  flowers  produced  in  t^  ishcBd  naks 
these  of  a  superior  quality ;  indeed  it  would  be 
Aficak  to  Sod  any  better.  Hiey  are  shqiped 
to  Venice,  Trieste,  Leghorn,  as  well  as'ta 
finglaad  aod  Russia. 

Tlie  greatest  put  of  the  imports  into  the 
islaiid  of  Cepbalonia,  have  hitherto  conn 
(biiMgK  Venicse  and  Trieste ;  and  the  Gredttj 
Drho  oafried  on  a  trade  in  colonial  prodoce, 
wnally  were  in  the  hatnt  of  grang  to  Legfaora 
ibr  supplies.  The  annual  consumptkni  of  fbe 
Mand  generally  consists  of  rimat  W  bides  of 
assorted  woollen  cloths  in  dark  colours,  at  the 
prices  of  from  seven  to  nine  bani  dollars  the 
Venetian  (r«r«e  ;  three  bales  of  assorted  v^vvts; 
acMModeraUe  quantity  of  linens,  of  all  quditiei; 
to  dozen  cotton  faandkerehieft ;  10  dona  of 
black  silk  handkerchiefi>  aod  90,000  or  60^000 
.  weight  of  sugar. 

The  fevotnuble  season  for  supphfmg^  islaad 
of  Cephalonia  with  salt  proTisioBs  is  ftom  the 
eommencemeot'^^  December  till  the  end  of 
February.  1%n  suf^y  consists  of  about  150 
barrels  of  sidmon  or  stuigeon  ;  sofiOO  pounds 
o(  dried  stock-fi^ ;  110,000  pounds  of  -pii^ied 
C!0d<tidi ;  100  barrdfi  anchovies ;  90  barrels 
smoked  heninge,  and  IS  baneb  «dt  barings. 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CK47>m^]     rsx  umna  munn.  mi 

Tbe  bsnri  nMoaSy  contains  about  900  Vfsmbr 
tisn  pounds.  The  j^iove  salt  provisiooa  meet 
with  a  read^  aait, 

Tbe  lodigD  i^  St.  Domiago  is  preferred  to 
m.y  otlwr  quaiity,  and  of  this  artiole  aiMmt  700 
otfaeM*a.Te  amnially  consumed  for  the  dyeing  of 
the  oottoae  manufactured  in  the  country.  Tbe 
ordioaryprioe  is  aboat  24  or  ^Turkish  piastres 
of  about  two  ihrncs  per  oque.  The  seasonal:^ 
time  ibr  the  sde  of  this  article  is  in  August  and 
September.  This  raland  also  consumes  about 
9000  pounds  of  rocfe-alam  at  15  or  1$  puw  pw 
pound.  The  fiivoarabje  mot^s  ibr  die  vent  of 
tka»  article  are  the  sanie. 

The  drugs  and  spices  used  in  Cephalonta  are 
4000  pounds  of  pe^vper  in  grain ,  at  the  rate  of  60 
paras  to  two  piastres  per  poand ;  from  ^0,000  to 
-too^XX)  weight  of  cionamon  of  the  best  quality, 
at  the  price  of  seven  or  ^ght  piastres  per  pound; 
lOO  pounds  of  Pe^ovian  buk,  best  qualUy ;  SOO 
or  400  pooflds  rhubarb  from  four  to  five  ptastrea 
per  pound;  |000  potnads  manna  of  a  good 
quality;  and  a  smaU  c^antitjr  of  doves  which 
sell  at  from  12  to  14  piastres  perpound.  Aik  the 

.  *  Ttw  oquc  is  ■  Ttufculi  w!^j^t  con«ipondlqg  to  400 
dnehnu  or  £0  ounces  Ronan  weight.  The  Turkish  qumtal  ia 
equal  to  44  oques,  and  consequently  contaiai  137  pounds. 
— Ts. 


SolizodbyGpOgle 


44t  THE   IONIAN   ISUNDS.       [cBAP.  ZU. 

above  articles  are  sold  to  most  advantage  in  the 
months  of  August  and  September.  i 

This  island,  besides*  consumes  a  considerable 
quantity  of  iron  in  bars  of  all  qualities,  but  that 
of  Sweden  is  preferred.  The  annual  importa- 
tions of  this  article  are  fiom  50,000  to  100,000 
pounds,  and  the  selling  price  175  piastres  per 
1000;  the  demand  is  usually  in  the  winter. 
Cepfaalonia  has  also  been  in  the.. habit  of  re* 
ceiving  from  Venice  about  200  barrels  of  assorted  ' 
nails,  containing  1 8,000  nails  in  each  barrel.  The 
smallest,  called  cavalli,  are  in  most  repute. 
These  assortments  usually  sell  for  16  or  17  paras 
per  100,  and  the  summer  is  the  most  ^vourable 
seuon.  Steel  in  bars  does  not  coiQmand  a 
ready  sale,  and  the  consumption  is  not  beyond 
10  or  14  cases  weighing  two  quintals  each. 
Lead  in  pigs  is  in  considerable  demand,  and  up- 
wards of  50>000  weight  are  required,  at  I2  or  13 
paras  per  pound.  The  island  ^so  receives  froin 
Germany  a  few  boxes  of  tin  in  plates,  which 
sells  from  10  to  12  paras  per  plate,  but  thiit 
£rom  France  or  England  is  worth  from  15  to  IS 
paras. 

The  island  also  consumes  irom  20  to  24  bales 
of  common  paper,  cut,  at  the  rate  of  about  fi>ur 
piastres  per  ream,  and  five  bales  common  paper, 
not  cut,  at  three  piastres }  and  two  bales  letter 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP.  Xn.3      TB£  IONIAN   ISLANDS.  443 

paper  at  three  piastres.  Tlie  whole  of  the  above 
articles  formerly  paid  no  more  than  three  per 
cent,  import  duties.  It  is  evident  that  when 
th«  agriculture  of  the  Ionian  Islands  is  pro- 
rooted,  and  warehouses  are  established  for  local 
as  well  as  continental  supplies,  their  commerce 
■will  necessarilj  receive  a  veiy  considerable  in- 
crease. 


^oiizodbvGooglc 


CHAPTEK  Xlll. 

Military  Sketch  of  the  Frontiers  of  Turknf,'— 
Recapitulation  of  the  Political  Views  of  the 
neighbouring  Powers  on  that  Country/— 
Plan  of  Operations  which  each  of  them  may 
follow,'~'Political  and  Military  Probabilities 
in  their  Favour. ~^Means  of  Defence  possessed 
by  Turkey. — Outline  of  the  Campaigns  of 
the  Romans  against  the  Macedonians  in  Al- 
baniot  the  Epirus,  and  thessaly. — Military 
Consequences  which  this  Outline  presents. 

European  Turkey,  in  a  military  point  of 
view*  ought  to  be  considered  as  bounded  on  the 
N.  by  the  Danube  and  Save,*  and  on  the  W. 
by  Austrian  Croatia,  Dalmatia  (together  vitfa 
the  dependencies  of  Ragusa  and  Cattaro),  and 
by  the  Septinsular  republic.    Since  the  peace 

*  Notwithstanding  Arrowsnuth's  m^  k  iiiq[>etfect  in 
Mveral  lespeoti,  it  will  nererthelesa  serve  for  the  re«der 
tocoiwilt  on  the  subject  of  the  present  .chapter.  If  dr- 
cumatancei  bUow,  the  Author  proposes  to  publish  s  general 
map  of  Turkey  oa  a  militaiy  scale,  for  the  purpose  of 
mustrating  the  Memoirs  from  which  this  chapter  bn  beta 
cztaracted. 


.  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


GUF.  XHI.^      BBTKna:   OP  TCKKBT.  4W 

of  1612  bag  fdaced  Russia  is  posseaiion  of  Bes- 
Mtrabu,  and  given  to  her  the  fortified  towns  of 
IsMail  and  Kilia,  Moldavia  and  Vaiadtia  arc 
fo  muc^  exposed  to  an  invasion^  tba<  the  Turfc- 
iih  armies  vill  always  be  (xnnpelted  to  withdeaw 
to  the  other  side  the  Danube  at  bood  as  bos- 
tSities  have  cominenced.  I  have  considered 
Dalmatia  and  the  Ionian  republic  as  one  of  the 
Bulitarj  frontiers  of  Turkey,  notwithstanding 
Dafanatta  is  in  itsctf  no  other  than  a  narrow 
■ti^  of  sea-coast,  and  the  Ionian  Islands  have 
BOW  only  a  siogletown  on  the  Greek  continent ; 
but  we  diall  hereaftCT  hare  occasjon  to  show 
that  the  power  possessed  of  tiiesc  two  countzies, 
or  one  (tf  than,  will  always  hold»  if  it  can  bo- 
lides command  a  point  of  support  in  Italy,  a 
conuderable  influmce  oirer  the  afiiurs  of  Qreece. 
Although  the  real  division  of  European 
iSirkey  is  into  San^aks  or  Pacfaalics,  hi  coib- 
ibrmity  to  what  we  have  already  laid  down,  yet 
■a  this  dtvinon,  originally  made  widiout  any  re* 
gard  to  the  internal  eooimerciai  relations  or  the 
limitB  of  the  ancient  provinces^  afibrds  no 
particular  object  of  military  consideration,  we 
shall  entirely  exclude  it  fcom  the  present  survey. 
Tile  primitive  dinsioa  of  the  peninsula  situated 
on  the  right  of  the  Save  and  Danube,  sndi  as  it 
existed  mder  ^kt  Roman  empire,  being  modi 
nioi*  exact  in  a  topografdiieal  pooHt  of  view,  ia 
7 

Li.iiiz,,!:,.,  Google 


446  DEP&NCE  OF  TtraKET.      [CHZF.  XTOt 

the  only  one  that  ought  to  serve  at  a  guide  io  s 
plan  of  military  operations,  and  it  i«  tinder  this 
impreasion  that  it  claims  our  particular,  notice. 
We  shall  therefore  proceed  to  divide  European 
Turkey,  with  the  exception  of  Moldavia  and 
Walachia,  into  10  provinces. 

I8t,  Bosnia,  corresponding  to  eastern //^riffj 
This  province,  which  comprehends  Turkish  Crow 
-  ktia,  Erzegovina,  and  Montaiegro,  takes  in  tim 
whole  of  the  country  watered  by  the  rivers 
flowing  into  the  right  of  the  Save  from.  the;Unn» 
as  ftr  as  the  Drino  of  Bosnia,  together  wth.the 
greatest  part  of  the  valley  of  the.Moraca-,    i 

iSd,  Servia,  formerly  upper  Mcma^  includ- 
ing the  country  connected  with  the  right  bank 
of  the  Drino,  the  v^leys  of  the  two  Moravas,  as 
well  as  that  of  the  Nissava  as  far  as  the  Timok. 

3d,  Bulgaria,  and  the  district  of  Doberudscba, 
anciently  called  lower  Maaia  and ,  Sq/thia, 
stretching  between  the  Danube  and  Mount 
Hasmus,  from  the  Timok  as  far  as  the  Black  Sea. 

dtfa,  Roumelia,  formerly  Thracia^  including 
the  country  watered  by  the  Maritza  (anciently 
Hiebrus),  as  well  as  the  adjacent  country  and 
situated  between  Mounts  Heemus.aod  Rhodope, 
the  Black  Sea,  the  Marmara  or  White  Sea,  to- 
gether with  the  Archipeiago  as  &r  as  the  Ka- 
rasou  of  Jenidge,  formerly  called  the  Njefttus- 

5tb,  MacedoBia^cotrespoodii^toithesHi^etti 


SiailizodbvGoOglc 


VHAP.Xm.]      DEFEMCG   OF   TURKEY.  44? 

kingdom  of  this  name,  inclosing  the  valley  »f 
the  Vardar,  formerly  the  Axius,  as  well  as  the 
country  connected  with  the  rivers  flowing  into 
.  it«  and  situated  between  the  Karasou,  Mounts 
Scordus,  Boreas,  and  Kralichiovo,  which  sepa- 
rates it  from  Thessaly. 

6th,  Albania,  formerly  Macedonian  Ill^ia, 
extending  along  the  sea-coaat  fi^m  the  Acro- 
cerauniai)  Mountains  as  &r  as  the  lake  of  Scu- 
tari, including  the  valleys  of  the  two  Drinos  of 
Albania,  called  the  Bielo  Drino  and  the  Czemo 
Drino,  together  with  the  Vojutza  and  the  inter- 
■  mediattf  country. 

7th,  The  Epirus,  comprehending  the  ancient 
province  of  this  name  as  well  as  Acamania. 

8th,  Thessaly,  equally  including  the  ancient 
province,  that  is,  the  country  bordering  on  the 
Salembria,  anciently  the  Feneus. 

9th,  Livadia,  formerly  Achaia  or  Gracia,  ex- 
tending to  the  S.  of  the  Epirus  and  Thessaly  as 
&r  as  the  isthmus  of  Corinth. 

10th,  The  Morea  or  Peloponnesus. 

Such  are  the  divisions  of  which  we  shall  avail 
ourselves  in  the  present  chapter.  We  shall  next 
proceed  to  examine  the  frontiers  of  the  Otto- 
man empire  in  Europe,  under  the  light  in  Mrhich 
they  are  liable  to  the  invasions  of  the  neigh- 
bouring powers. 

On  tiie  side  of  Russia,  previous  to  the  peace 


3,a,l,zt!dbvG0bglc 


4M  DKmrcs  or  tdiut.    QcHip.xnb 

of  l»l%  the  Tuzkish  fitontier*  ptesented  to  IM 
)4.  of  Moldavia  some  good  nilitwy  poatioii0« 
The  bocders  of  the  Fiutfa  had  wttncsied  the 
capitiilaticHt  of  Peter  I.  who  owed  the  aafetj  of 
h»  cron  to  no  other  than  the  address  of 
Catherioft  his  spouse.  Since  this  pcxiod,  how- 
evef}  the  Russtana  being  coaled  easilj  to  unite, 
at  the  first  appearance  oS  vu,  a  strong  force  ia 
Beiaarabia  and  under  the  walk  of  Kilia  and. 
i^oiaU,  an  Ottoman  army  is  no  longer  in  a  sttu- 
ation  to  mstain  itself  in  Moldavia ;  since  if  a 
xa|»d  ei4>edhi(Mi  was  directed  into  Dobrud^ 
and  on  Varna,  the  first  would  be  in  danger  of 
being  cut  o^T  from  its  Ga|Mtal.  It  is,  therefore,  ne- 
cessary ibf  it  to  take  up  apoution  behind  the  Dft* 
Bube,  between  Ruazczuk  and  SiUatiay  causing  die 
c^nings  of  Babatag  and  latere  on  die  right  t(» 
be  guarded,  and  cm  the  left,  the  passage  oi  tiie 
river  between  Vidin  and  Orsova.  Sach  a  dis- 
tributirai  is  by  no  means  advantageous  Sst  a 
plan  of  defence.  In  &ct,  the  course  of  the 
Danube  which  thus  becomes  the  true  miUtary 
frontier,  tbrms  an  arch  whose  convexity  is  turned 
towards  the  aide  of  the  Ottoman  empire.  The 
RsEBian  army  having  entered  into  Walachia,  and 
arrived  between  Buchorest  and  Kr^ova,  finds 
itself  in  the  middle  of  a  che^  whose  extremitiea 
rest  on  Orsova  and  Galacz ;  its  wing-moveafeents 
will  always  be  eaay  and  awe  rapid  than  the 


_  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


CSAP.Xinv]:     DEFENCE  OP  TDREET.  449 

countermovements  of  the  Turka,  and  the  latter 
will  thfis  be  unable  to  prevent  the  passage  of 
the  Daaube>  on  a- point  which  the  Russian 
general  may  have  the  talent  to  choose,  between 
Vidio  and  Hirszova. 

The  direction  also  '•  of  the  communicationa 
leading  &om  the  banks  <tf  the  Danube  to  Con- 
•tantinoplcr  as  well  as  into  the  centre  of  Greece^ 
contributes  still  more  to  render  such  a  disposed 
line  of  frontier  disadvantageous  to  Turkey. 
These  communications,  issuing  from  the  dif- 
ferent points  of  a  circumference  whose  con- 
vesity  is  turned  towards  Greece,  dc^not  reunite 
in  one  common  and  confined  centre  so  as  to 
afford  to  the  Ottoman  armies  a  secure  means  of 
resistance,  when  defending  a  central  position 
which  might  cover  the  heart  of  .the  empire. 
They  rather  end  ;n  several  successive  points  of 
one  of  the  radii,  and  correspond  thereto  in  such 
a  manner,  that  an  assailing  army  ia  easily  en* 
abled  to  turn  all  the  positions  which  may  be 
situated  in  advance  of  Adrianople.  These  pre- 
mises will  be  fiilly  established  by  a  detail  of  the 
above  communications^ 

The  first  is  that  leading  from  Ismail  through 
Tulczia,  Sabatag,  Istere,  Hadgi-ogli-BaZar,  to 
Faravadi.  From  thence  one.  road  proceeds 
through  Karinabad  to  Adrianople,  and  the  other 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


goes  DO  to  CoDstoDtiiiiifile  thiough  Aides  aad 
Kirk-KUina,  withMit  passing  by  Adnaoople,  to 
which  city  the  road  does  nst  approach  nearer 
thwi  mCbin  is  leagues.  The  weood  iasuu  fixuQ 
Silistra,  and  passing  by  Kai«vdgik  ends  at 
SEnindfti  wbeace  one  road  leads  to  Paravadi  and 
Vsrna,  whibt  the  fither  praeeeds  through  OzaJi^ 
kavak  and  Karioabad  tovaids  ^^dnatM^lc 
From  Ruizcsuk  a  thiid  line  a£  DcmmamewAn 
stretches  towards  Hezargrad.  and  then  div^a 
into  two  great  bcanohes}  tlie  one  to  the  left 
leading  to  £:»tHt}a  and  Faravadi  j  aad  H^e  aUur 
to  the  ri^  tbrcK^h  Osmaa-BaizBr  t»  £arif^ad 
•ad  Adri»Mple.  Fnxn  Sistav  and  NikofoU  it 
js  possiUe  to  {vocoed  in  a  disMt  manaar  to  thn 
vattey  of  the  Maritfa  and  th&  fism^tj^  fiuBi 
pcfioii,  eitiher  thnni^  Nikopi,  I^epkdge,  aad 
Jeoi-Z^a,  or  duiough  Ternovo  or  i^iteaD^  en 
to  Kaiaaaiik  and  Efiki-Zagra.  'IIib  latter  high 
road  leads  Irani  Vidin  to  Arzar,  aqd  thence 
tibroii^  Caibffa  jor  Beckova«z  to  Sophia.  Thia 
timpk  exposition  aiffioes  to  foint  cut  &t  in- 
Ut3iti|r  of  die  positimi  vliich  theOttamaa  axeiy, 
during  the  last  war,  occupied  at  Szumla,  as  wett 
as  the  eaae  -with  -widch  tiia  saawpeeitiDn  might 
bavp  .been  torned.  Ji  ivotild  be  meoe  difficult 
to  -expla^  vhy  this  <waa  not  the  case^  and  why 
dK|ieace  was  not  signed  under  'Ae  wsUs  ^ 


>i,;t!dbvGooglc 


OHAF.KJia.]      OCailBPCE  OF  XVKKEIT.  4Sl 

Adriano|d[e';  tktB.ex|alanatiota  beaHes  lAJgbt  oot 
■aaouDt  4o  an  euk^um  ^  the  ItussiaB  Com* 
mondea-  in  fHitaf. 

■Ott  the  aide  «f  AiifltiU'the.order  of  ifrontieri 
is  not  ntnck  less  difiadvuttgeous  to  iheOtto* 
■oaii  empire,  altibougli  the  ddfensive  umy  u 
filamoA  in  lint  ooDc&Tit^  «f  tke  bead  formed  by 
theae frontiers.  Xioais  because  tim  bend  being 
AeMJf  cUiptfcd,  the  Jipproocbes  <df  the  two.e3> 
treoHties  nearer  to  «aoh  other  cotisidcrabljr  te* 
aaoye  itbe  cenbre  d  the  defence  irom  the  'Sunv 
ttik.  Austria  may  osufe  her  iirmieB  to  «nta 
fiom  TraRsylvBui*  into  iWalacfaia}  frmn  Hun- 
gary into  Servia;  from  Crostiit  and  ^MwatU 
into  Bosnia  and  Albania ;  and  >tbe  basts  «if  tfce 
deAusive  system  ol'  (he  1j>ttCMnan  «m^r«  is 
transversal  ^to  1^  tnple  direction  ^  attadr^ 
^  order  to  oonv^  a  tnorc  clear  idea  of  ihk 
proposiUon,  it  will  be  necessary  to  erattamfe 
(with  smae  degree  of  at^tion  the  physical  As- 
tern of  Eurepeea  Turkey,  and  :Uie  direetioht  not 
^oioly  'of  the  great  ttre^on  of  water,  since  it  is 
now  proved  that  the  paseage  of  i  riven:  is  not  it 
4^cuUy  the  leas  ea^y  to  surmount,  but  also  (b« 
idireotions  of  4be  high  chains  (€  meantaiiiB 
oriiich  6k,  in  an  inrtuiabU  stnanner,  the  posivUb 
.<Jbann4ls  of  access.    , 

The  chain  of  the  Alps  «nt<lt«  intd  Hmtt 
i^rough  the  fiontitrt  of  JGimrtia  a^d  OMltnaiii^ 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


45f         DEFENCE  Of   TUBXET.   [CHAP.  XOT. 

lo  that  AuBtria  is  thus  mistress  of  the  two  de- 
divities  of  this  chain,  sufficiently  low  in  this 
quarter,  and  there  is  no  paasa^  between  the 
river  ITnna  and  the  commcDcement  of  Alount 
Scocdus  that  can  possibly  be  defended.  Con- 
sequently, nothing  more  remains  than  the 
second  inclosure  formed  by  Mounts  Haamus, 
Scordos,.  Boreas,  and  Fiodus ;  and  which  by 
shutting  in  Macedonia  and  Roumelia  appears 
-to  separate  them,  in  pomt  of  defence,  irom  the 
rest  of  European  Turkey;  The  direction  of  tlK 
great  Uoes  of  communication  issuing  from  the 
frontiers  of  Austria  will  exhibit  to  us  which  are 
the  points  to  be  considered  as  the  keys  of  this 
second  inclosure. 

;  FromOraova,  along  the  border  of  the  Danube 
«nd  TiAiok,  and  from  Belgrade  throuf^  the 
iVaUey  of  tiie  Morava,  two  roads  lend  to  Nissa, 
'Whence  it  is  possible  -  to  enter  Macedonia 
through  Vrana  and  Usktub,  or  Romelia,  through 
Sophia  and  Fhilipopolt.  From  Croatia  a  great 
cooiBKrcial  road  also  proceeds  to  Bosna-Ser^, 
and  thence  to  Jeni-Bazar.  From  the  latter 
{>lace  it  is  poraible  tp  direct  a  course  on  Nissa, 
.or  oa  Pritf  ina,  whence  two  roads  issue ;  the  one 
leading  into  .Albania  through  Prisrenda,  and 
the  other  into  Macedonia  by,  the  way  of  Uskiub^ 
whi^h  stands  at  the  hetfd  of  ithe  roada  leading 
iatp  aouthem  Gree<w»ith(ottgh  MHamtir,  and  to 


DiailizodbvGoOglc 


CBAT,  Xin.]      DEFENCE  OF  TUSKET.  4a3. 

ConstaotiDopIe,  either  through  Salonica  or 
Serres,  or  else  through  Kosteadil  aod  Phili- 
popoli.  , 

From  Dalmatia  two  roads  conduct  to  Bosna- 
Seny,  either  through  Traunik  or  Kogniz.  From 
Dalmatia  it  is  also  possible  to  enter  into  Al- 
bania through  Skutari,  as  well  as  through  Erze- 
govina  and  the  valley  of  the  Moraca,  by  going 
directly  from  Cattaro  to  Antivari  and  Dulc^no. 
Skutari  stands  at  the  head  of  the  roada  leading 
through  Durazzo  and  Berat  to  Joannina ;  and 
through  Elbassan,  Ochrida  and  Monastir,  either 
to  Salonica  and  Constantinc^le»  or  else  into  the 
gouth  of  Greece. 

It  is  evident  from  this  brief  statement  that 
the  keys  of  the  second  enclosure  of  which  we 
have  above  spoken  are  Monastir,  Uskiub,  and 
Pbilipopoli,  as  &r  as  regards  Austria.  But  the' 
relative  position  of  these  three  points  among 
themselves,  and  their  direction  unifornterly 
transversal  to  that  of  attack,  prevents  them 
from  supporting  each  other  reciprocally,  and  thus  ■ 
disables  them  from  fru'nishiiig  an  advantageous 
means  of  defence.  Monastir  and  Uskiub  are 
tolerably  near  to  each  other,  and  Mount  Boreas 
sufficiently  impracticable  for  each  of  these. 
two  places  to  sustam  the  other;  but  this. is  not 
the  case  with  regard  to  Uskiub  and  Phili< 
popoli,  and  the  distance  at  which  the  latter 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


point  steads^  readers  the  defence  tA  the  others 
extmnely  hazardous.  In  &ct,  n<^  onfy  a  road 
vhich  may  be  converted  into  a  ofilitary  one, 
such  as  H  formerly  iras,  l^ds  from  Sbpfria  apd 
Kostendil;  bnt,  by  asceni^i^  tde  raiRey  of 
E^er,  at  DonpoitZa  ft  is  besides  p6ssib|e  to  cut 
pff  the  communicstion  &om  Uskiub  U>  FItdf' 
popoIL  In  eadi  of  these  two  cases,  tfte  trans^ 
versa}  road  from  PhiKpopdi  to  Serfes  is  left  an- 
covered,  and  the  positions  al  Uskttib  and  Ifo^ 
nastir  are  thereby  turned  and  cirt  off  ftota 
Constantinople.  It  thus  appears  eTiden4»  that 
the  real  centre  of  ddence  possessed  by  £iir6> 
-pean  Turkey  against  the  invasions  of  Austria  is 
the  triangle  of  Sophia,  Kostendil,  and  Fhilipo- 
poli ;  and  this  triangle  holds  to  no  military  line. 
At  the  time  when  IHyria,  Bfahnatia,  and  the 
Seven  Islands,  wei%  in  jtossession  of  the  Emperor 
'Napoleon,  the  miKtary  frontiers  of  &iropean 
Turkey  affiirded  a  9tiB  more  disadvantageous  de- 
fence. It  was  then  not  only  AHunta  and  Bosnia 
which  were  threatened  with  invasion,  Jgat  tfte 
Epirus  and  Thessaly  were  egoally  exposed  t» 
danger.  An  attack  of  the  latter  kiijd  was  tnftst  to 
be  feared,  because,  by  suddenly  sepat^tang^  the 
southern  provinces  fi'om  the  restrofthe  empire,  it 
would  carry  the  assailing  army  irith  rapidity  into 
Macedonia,  apd  shortly  reduce  tbeOttbtifansto 
tbe  aecessity  of  defending  titeitiselyes  b^nd 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


McMMM  Ehwfeptf  *nd  imdtr  t&e  waUs  of  C<Ai>i 
sttffltinefrle.  1^0  Utthtu  islHKta  btid^  ttbd«y 
<be  dotaiAion  of  Railsia,  ibis  pi»we>r  thereby 
possessed  the  metxts  ti  mtking  an  t^imtag^ 
Oaa  diversion.  In  the  bands' (tf  Aaatriay  Mttt 
forming  1^  rigM  eifieetM  of  a.  Htte  of  sgVMi 
degrees  of  lati«i»le,  by  wKdf  Ijhe  teeter  poiiM^ 
Woatd  foach  Anf  Torkey,  (bffiet  i^Mkfc  #(»i4 
se^tf  to  F«nde»  iite  fall  of  eh*d>  OtMtaah  ctnpM 
ittMlible  SAd  Alpfd.  BM  tfe  0M(  hCMafta*  «^ 
tfuttie  the  gtottttBBfioA  of  ^«  p<ritjt; 

We  took  an  early  ty^perlu^ty  of  didineatSng* 
iKe  projeet»^Iius^  and  AuEftriai  en  £«topetfEt 
Turkey,  dad  the  display  ^Me  two'  pt>vei>s  hod 
girdnfAtbe  pre^u^tovycAeosurea'of  tbe  i[ivask>fl 
tbey  medteffled.  We  asserted:  t%a«  the  Fr^Kh 
fth>tilafio«  df  ITSVaftdi^rwairdfr  t^fidf  iffMif 
by  ealU»^  t^tnrardfr  fibe  West  thei^boleatteatloa 
of  the  gre»t  Europeai  powers^  bad  procured 
to  Tiirk^  a  repose  oi  tweaty-ffve'  years ;  but 
&aft  this  &ctitiouB  repose  eouM  e^y  laet  till^  th« 
fflotnent  her  neighbours  were  in  a-  Aaite  to  rtit 
lume  and  follow  uptbe  ex^atiofi  of  their  original 
pkas.  Few  words  will  suffice  in  erdier  to  pravtr 
tbi»  asaertiOB,  Hid  these  proo&  Will  be  drawtf 
from  no  otb<a-  source  than  the  geogra^icil 
pont^D  of  Russia  arid  Austria. 

Keithef  of  tiiesB  two  powers  can  hitherto  btf 
reckoned  fai  ^  navahecct  ^s^  ffidif£sKM»inl- 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


45i  SeFBirCE  Off   TURK£T.     [CHAP.  XIU. 

merdAl  natums  of  Europe.  The  fiivt  is  unable 
to  derive  any  great  advaitfages  from  the  Bakic 
sea,  shut  up  as  it  is  by  the  ice  on  the  coasts  df 
Livonia  and  Ingria  during  eight  months  of  the 
year. .  She  is  also  unable  to  come  out  of  the 
Black  Sea  and  thus  improve  the  resourses  of  the 
establishments  she  has  there  formed,  unless  by 
passing  under  the  veiy  walls  of  Constantinople 
and  with  the  permission  of  the  Ottomans* 
Austria,  £»  her  maritime  commarce,  has  hitherto 
possessed  nothing  more  than  the  beach  of  Fiume 
and  the  mean  port  of  Trieste.  Nevertbriess  no 
one  is  ignorant  that,  for  nearly  a  centufy  past, 
these  two  powers  have  been  busied  in  the  for- 
mation of  a  navy.  Who,  therefore,  can  entertain 
a  doubt  of  their  now  seizing  with  avidity  every 
means  of  attaining  their  object  ?  It  is  iurther 
evident,  that  they  cannot  0nd  what  they  seek, 
unless  it  is  at  the  expense  of  Turkey, 

Russia  is  not  and  cannot  be  satisfied  with  the 
expensive  and  useless  establishment  ^e  has  un- 
dertaken at  Odessa.  This  port  will  never  be 
worth  any  thing  as  &r  as  regards  commerce, 
owing  to  its  situation  in  the  midst  of  an  arid 
desert.  In  order  to  be  the  absolute  mistress  of 
the  navigation  of  the  Black  Sea  and  to  be  able 
to  keep  it  during  the  north  winds  which  so  £"6- 
quently  reign  there,  it  would  be  necessary  for  h« 
to  have  the  port  of  Varna.  TfaatofKilia,  which 
5 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CHAP.UII.3      DEFENCE   OF  TURK£TV  457 

Russia  has  lately  caused  to  be  ceded  to  herjserveif 
only,  as  we  have  already  had  occanon  to  notice, 
to  shackle  the  commerce  of  the  Danube  without 
bringing  -to  her  any  real  advantage.  But  to 
possess  Vania  it  is  requisite  for  her  to  have 
Moldavia,  Walachia*  and  Bulgaria ;  and  for  the 
possession  of  the  Black  Sea  to  afibrd  adequate 
advantages  it  is  besides  necessary  to  hold  the 
outlets,  without  which  the  former  is  ndthiog 
more  than  an  interior  lake.  Hence  is  it  that 
since  th^  time  of  Catherine  II.  Russia  has  al- 
ways kept  her  eyes  on  Constantinople;  and  c^ 
this  capital  she  would  already  have  been  mis* 
^8S,  but  for  the  rivality  of  Austria,  whose  go- 
vernment has  hitherto  been  unprepared  to  con- 
sent to  such  an  aggrandizement. 

Austria  on  her  side,  who,  since  the  reign  of 
Maria  Theresa,  had  sought  to  form  establish- 
ments on  the  Adriatic  sea,  was  already  iar  ad- 
vanced in  her  projects  when  the  peace  of 
Campo  Formio  placed  her  in  possession  of  the 
ports  of  Zara  and  Cattaro.  She  afterwards  lost, 
but  has  now  by  treaty  regained  them,  and  thus 
becomes  nearly  mistress  of  the  navigation  of  the 
Adriatic  sea.  Nevertheless,  the  possession  of 
Dalmatia  is  not  sufficient  to  satisfy  her.  This 
poor  and  arid  province  is  no  other  than  passive. 
It  is  nothing  more  than  a  narrow  strip  of  ata- 
coast  detached  .irorn  Erzegoviaa,'  Bosqia,  and 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


4S»  xasniKCt  M  VDftCETr     fcHjk»,&m. 

Servia»  vith  yAath  it  once  tbmed  a  riii|;le  vlkto 
under  the  lUme  of  the  empire  of  ServJa.  As  It 
is,  DalRMtU  faas  no  otfair  means  of  mbslffting 
tfaan  hy  foreign  loecour.  Nothing*  thtseStue, 
k  nore  natural  than  to  desire  to  itnte  it  i^mh 
to  the  provinces  from  vfaicfa  H  has  been  de* 
ladicd»  and  which  would  iUrnidt  it  ^th  thoM 
ratourccs  of  which  it  itands  in  need. 

Thii  conseqnence  kada  to  the  idea  of  itnitln^ 
to  the  Austrian  empire  all  the  country  sttuated 
between  the  Rivet  Timok,  Moatrt  S«or^»,  th« 
Monea,  and  the  sea,  by  drawing  a  line  team 
the  point  where  Walachia  touehes  on  tSang»fy 
aa  far  as  Skutari.  Now  that  the  igstw  of  events 
which  have  socceeded  each  other  in  £urope  haj 
placed  Austria  io  possession  of  Up^r  It^,  the 
desire  of  uniting  Bosnia  at  least  to  her  domi- 
naons  nust  have  acquired  a  njsw  iodise,  by  pre- 
seutiag  to  bet'  the  necessary  means'  of  creatinnf 
A  navy,  of  which  the  now  more  than  e^er  stands 
in  need.  The  co(«ts  of  the  Adriatic,  which 
she  entfaraces  £rom  the  mouth  of  the  Po  as  Su 
at  Trieste  and  Fiume,  and  Eunice  as  ftr  as  the 
eonfinea  of  Monten^o,  furnish  her  with  a 
great  mmber  c^  fine  ports.  Those  of  Venice, 
Boccari,  Zara,  Ragiisa,  and  Cattaro,  more  par- 
ticularly, fi»ay  with  ease  be  converted  into  ms- 
atime  anenals.  liitria,  Ddmatia,  Rifgnsa,  and 
Ae  mouth*  of  Canaro,'  also  a^M^  a  considera- 
6 

DiailizodbvGoOglc 


hit  iMmheT  efeJicelltvAt  sal1ctf».  liiett',  cordag«v 
sad  rigguag,  can  ftioreovev  b«  ftimi^dd  l^  1^ 
Austrian  states  of  Italy  at  df  &9T!»mf.  Bilt 
diis  is  not  tfae  esse  with-  fg^ird  to  sbip-ciMlMiv 
of  tMc^  only  A  itnuil  qoAntisy  is  ta  few  fttitid 
ift  IstFiaa«d>  the  iaIaiMl»  of  t&e  QuanuH-Or  Mfdi 
ithieh  thei  Temunidg  port  of  t^  set-CeasC  doctf 
not  ftimtBh.  The  tiMbw  of  &e  &>rtst»  d£  Hu 
Moraca,  t4ie  Drin<^,  aiwt  (^  Uppef  Albsiua,  may 
be  diqiuted,  carried  tfmnjff  or  M  least  nased  ia 
price,  by  tfte  iberitabl^  coapelitwn  o^  a  riTaA 
maritiroc  power.  The  poBSM^eiv  of  Bdanis  eas 
alone  giv«^  t&  ^us^a  abundluvl  afld  &ue  forests, 
from  whence  ship^tiaiber  may  be  conveyed  intO' 
bffl*  own  ports  without  brang  d^endent  e»  a> 
fbreign  goverament. 

It  is  in  eonferoHty  to-  these  viev^  that  thosfr 
plans  of  campaign  wHI  atwajw  be  directed  which 
Russia  and  Austria,  may  undiertake  gainst  Tuiv 
key,  in  any  war  irt  which  these  powers  may  be 
engaged  j  since  whatever  isthe  motive  that  may 
lead  them  to  declare  war  against  the  Ottoman 
empire^  a  secret  object  will  dways  convert  ft 
itito  a  war  of  invasion,  of  which  the  phases  Will- 
di^Iay  themselves  as  the  disasters  of  the  Otto>- 
man  army  increase.  Russia,  since'  the'  last 
peace,  havmg  ^e  access  into*  lUf^^avia  and 
Walachia,  wili  extend  hers^  rapidly  in  these- 
plxryinces^assoon  as  hosti^ies  have  commenced'V 


DiailizodbvGoOglc 


4G0  QKrENCE   op   TUOKET..     [CHAP.XIII. 

and  it  is  fivm  thence  that  her  armies,  veil  com- 
manded, may  proceed  towards  the  centre  of  the 
Ottoman  empire,  and  by  the  capture  of  Varna 
consolidate  the  conquest,  of  Bulgaria. 

The  basis  of  operations  for  the  capture  of  .the 
above  fortified  place  is  between  Nikopoli  and 
Silistra,  by  proceeding  along  the  difierent  radii 
leading  to  Szumla.  But  as  it  is  .prqbable  that 
the  Ottoman  army  will  occupy  in  force  the  in-. 
trenched  position  established  near  the  latter 
city,  and  that  a  direct  manoeuvre  might  then 
bring  on  a  general  action,  it  would  be  prefera- 
ble, in  order  to  avoid  the  risk,  to  turn  this  po* 
sition.  We  have  already  seen  that  this  opera- 
tion  is  by  no  means  difScult,  and  it  is  possible 
to  effect  it  by  three  principal  movements.  In 
the  first  place,  by  proceeding  from  Hezaigrad 
direct  to  Adrianople ;  by  marching  £rom  Nico- 
poli  on  Kaizanlik;  and  finally,  by  crossing  the 
Danube  above  or  below  Vidin,  and  proceeding, 
to  I^ilipopoli,  either  through  Servia  or  in  a  di- 
rect line. 

'  This  latter  movement  may  even  be  performed 
by  a  detached  corps,  and  serve  as  a  diversion  to 
that  of  the  main  body  of  the  army  on  Adrianople . 
or  on  Szumla.  The  restless  character  of  the 
Servians,  their  love  of- independence,  and  their 
inveterate  hatred  against  the  Turks,  which  the 
ex^tioQs  and  barbarous  acts  of  the  latter  are 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


CflAP^xni.]      DEFENCE  OF  TURKEf.  461 

very  &r  from  dimiDishuig,  will  always  convert 
-this  warlike  nation  into  an  useful  instrument  in 
the  hands  of  the  Christian  powers  seeking  to 
avail  themselves  of  them  for  the  execution  of 
their  projects.  Auxiliaries  of  Russia,  they 
would  &cilitate  the  passage  of  the  Danftbe  to 
the  armies  of  the  latter,  between  Vidin  and 
Orsova,  and  assemble  in  numbers  under  the 
banners  of  the  leader  sent  among  them.  This 
combination  of  forces  would  answer  more  than 
one  useful  end,  by  preventing  the  troops  of  the 
Fachas  c£  Bosnia  and  Upper  Albania  from  join- 
ing the  grand  Ottoman  army,  and  serve  as  a 
basis  of  operations  to  the  Russian  army,  in 
order  to  obtain  possession'  of  Sophia,  and  open 
to  itself  access  to  the  valley  of  the  Maritza,  as 
well  as  to  the  roads  of  Fhilipopoli  and  Adria- 
nople. 

Austria,  embracing  Bosnia  on  three  sides, 
does  not  possess  less  &cilities  for  the  invasion 
*of  this  province,  and  cutting  it  off  from  the  re- 
mainder of  the  Ottoman  empire.  She  may  take 
the  field  with  three  armies,  which,  by  directing 
their  march  on  one  central  point,  would  deport 
fix>m  the  two  extremities  as  well  as  the  middle 
of  an  extended  circumference.  On  the  left  the 
'  Austrian  army'  would  enter  into  Servia,  where 
it  woidd  find  the  same  &cilities  as  the  Russians, 
an^  the  insurrection  of  this  province  would 


Doiizodbv  Google 


fimae  at  n  ^HMUiaion  «f  »U  lihe  CQW^  )K»d»- 
iog  AD  the  ntven  Kianvasnd  Aftoanitt*  a*<1  edo* 
McgHOjIdj  a£  tke  o|»eiMti^  to  V^idus,  iiSoplus, 
VrKM,  md  Ulsktid).  Fcm»  Cnoatift  «  second 
mtaj  jMNild  peMtistedireclSy  iafeo  SBflna^  and 
ni|^  fbe  eKduuvel)'.«nltnMted  w»l&  ^tfaextoco- 
fia^on  >af  this  fWDviooe.  From  D^matu  end 
iUgun  a  tiurd  umj  might  {voDoed  vibbout 
■^eat  difficult  to  B<Mm-Ser^,  Bad  finm  tbence, 
itnr  nmxbiiig  on  Jem-Bazar  sad  Kristinft».oooiif^ 
ifae  fToada  >to  Jacova,  BrnoeoAa,  and  frutina, 
«ad  dieniby  out  off  all  oonuBunieatloa  >betimen 
fiesDia,  MlaoedoDia,  and  jUbanis. 

Meatf^  poitttcal  circniaatanoes  sviUot  all  tUMA 
aid  BoBtia  and  Auatriain  die  paojeatBitfinuaitai 
-whidi  tfaeae  two  ponenmy  miafa  io  tindsotafce 
agaioat  t^  fOttevan  ei^ire,  and  imune  their 
success  whenever  they  shall  be  inclined  to  lasor- 
deratand  each  other*  and  act  ia  xmnfiBtt,  The 
£rat  of  all,  beyond  oontradtctioB,  is  tbc^ab«d 
^e  GredcB  eotertain  towardt  the  Ticricp.  I^ 
inreterste  and  0per<iftcreaaing  odium  is  Bo>intich 
!tlie  moie  founded,  because  the  BTaricS}  lymaujr, 
jBDd  !t£tpuniy  of  the  Omaolis  idoBC  ufi  cvBty 
avenue jvfaich  the  natuEaliodnatryof  theGmtfas 
mght  open  to  themtdvos.  A  Gceek  ii:unable* 
4;)articulBidy  in  -^e  ^pnnriooea*  to  eatabtiab  mtty 
iiuamfiictare»<ar»to:(^tn'ateai^  bnoch  Qf«om- 
nuereeon.aQ  extaiiftive'Sciitel  in^sd  bcisfn- 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


«Hir.xin.3:   dkhkhcb  of  wvest.  499 

eluded  ft<om  exhibiting  any  signs  of  oiMiImce, 
without  the  Turks,  his  nelghfacnirs  and  his  ty. 
rants,  whom  the  profi^aod  ignorance  into  wfaidi 
tfaey  are  plunged  by  their  civil  and  rdigiouB  in- 
stitutions ^%venti  froni  having  either  gntiiis  or 
aptitude  for  the  arts,  fltrtppiog  hiin,  and  taxing 
on  the  fruits  c^  hia  labours.  He  does  aot  dare 
in  puUie  to  cultivate  eitlier  the  scienoea  or 
beUes^Iettres,  without  becoming  suspicious  to 
his  masters.  In  a  word,  he  holds  no  o^er  ex- 
istenee  dian  that  of  a  pa* sire  being-  The  deep 
and  genera}  hatred  o£  the  Greeks  towards  the 
Turks  will  always  lead  them  enthusiietically  to 
embrace  the  cause  of  any  power  they  may  con- 
cave tAM  and  w^ng  to  deliver  them  from  the 
degrading  yoke  under  which  they  are  heat 
dowB.  It  is  also  beyond  donbt  that  rdigitHk 
greatly  contributes  to  this  avemoa ;  but  it  ia 
mthef  1^  general  hatred  of  Chrietianism  agsinet 
Mahometanism  Uian  the  particular  spirit  of  sect. 
It  is  aiot«over  possible,  that  in  M<^avia,  W»- 
lachia,  tp,d  Bulgwia,  the  vicinity  of  die  Rns- 
staps  still  adds  to  the  motive  of  a  C(Hiformity  of 
worship,  and  may  also  cause  the  inhalntmnte  ^ 
tibese  provinces  to  incHne  to  Rmsia  rather  than 
towards  my  other  nataoo  of  a  diftrent  sect,  aL 
tjMugh  Christian.  But  ia  Bosnia,  Erae^ovina,- 
Upper  Atbania,  md  even  in  Servian  the  fres^entf 
veUtions  ef  &e  inhabitmits  wiifih  people  -of  th* 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


464  MRHCB  or  TURKET.      [CHAP.  XIIU 

Latin  rite,  the  existeDce  of  this  religion  am(>Dg 
them,  which  is  even  prevailing,  through  the 
number  of  persons  professing  it  in  Upper  Al- 
bania ;  these  united  causes,  together  with  the 
intrigues  of  Austria,  and  even  of  France,  have 
extinguished  all  particular  spirit  of  sect.  In 
Lower  Albania,  as  well  as  the  Mor'ea,  which 
previous  to  the  year  1797  have  always  been  in 
constant  relation  with  the  Venetians,  under 
whose  governotent  their  religion  has  remained 
existing,  though  not  prevailing  in  the  Seven 
Islands,  the  same  spirit  subsists ;  yet  in  the 
Morea  the  ill  success  of  the  badly  conducted 
expedition  of  1770  causes  the  French  or  the 
Austrians  to  be  preferred  to  the  RussiaQs.  /We 
must  not  even  believe  that  the  country  of  Mon- 
tenegro, notwithstanding  the  attachment  its 
bishop  has  evinced  to  the  Russians,  is  exclu- 
sively inclined  to  the  latter  power :  the  object 
(^  the  Montenegrinos  and  Greeks  in  general  is 
to  be  delivered  from  the  tyranny  of  the  Turks, 
and  whatever  may  be  the  power  which  procures 
them  this  happiness,  it  may  rely  on  their  as* 
sistanca  and  afiection. 

Against  all  the  dangers  which  threaten  them 
the  Turks  have  scarcely  any  real  means  of  de* 
fence.  Deprived  of  all  kinds  of  information, 
energy  as  well  as  moral  courage,  no  other  than 
frr^igo  aid  is  capable  of  saving  them  from  th»- 


3,a,l,zt!dbvG00glc 


CHAP.  Xin.J.  imPEKCE  Op  TUREET.         465 

perils  which  threaten  them  on  the  part  of  their 
neighbours.  Their  constitution,  as  well  civil  as 
religiouSi'and  also  the  ignorance  and  fanaticism 
of  the  pe<^e  subjected  to  Islamism,  preclude 
the  possibility  of  any  power,  through  the  meaiw 
of  laediatioo,  affording  them  those  direct  suc- 
cours whichmight  be  given  to  a  state  differently 
constituted:  It  is  impossible  to  think  of  intro- 
ducing an  auxiliary  army  into- Turkey,  even 
if  suchan  army  were  the  only  resource  capable 
of  efiecting  the  safety  of  the  Ottoman  empire. 
The  OAmanlis  wilt  never  allow  inSdels  into  their 
caJiks^'or  con^nt  to  6ght  by  their  side.  In  vain, 
at  different  periods,  has  it  been  attempted  to 
overcome  their  prejudices  in  this  particular  j- 
never  has  any  satisfactory  result  followed  these 
various  endeavours.  The  author  of  the  Me- 
moir quoted  at  the  beginning  of  this  work, 
among  the  means'of  defence  which  the  French 
government  might  cause  the  Ottoman  Forte  to 
adopt,  proposes  that  of  partly  relieving  the 
Greeks  from  the  slavery  under  which  they 
groan,  and  also  to  form  a  regular  corps  of  Bos* 
niaasj^rnauts,  and-Greeks ;  to  establish  a  body 
of  foreign  artillery,  and  to  take  European  navy 
'officers  on  b^ard  their  ships  of  war.  Neither 
of  these  meant  can,  nor  ever  will,  be  able  to  suc- 
ceed, since  they  are  directly  opposed  to  the 
precept*  a£  the  £onm ',  and  it  is  necessary  for 

DiailizodbvGoOglc 


4fifi  IWraiKX   OF  TUItKKn     [[CHtf.Xm^ 

tbfr  Turks  to  ecaie  to  be  Humilmaiir  fadoM 
tbey  can  adopt  (he  Maagcs  of  Euiope. 

The  firat  o!  tbese  awaswes  is  more  paitiei*- 
Ivly  uDpractieaUe,  owii^  to<  the  moral  si^>c<- 
TioriAy  which  the  0»maaLiis  are  eompdJiBd  to  ac< 
knowkdge  in  Uie  Gfeeks,  notwithsCandiDgtfaef 
give  to-  them  the  character  of  malignant  aiid 
perfiilious.  Two  of  the  iaseparable  altzimtea 
of  the  essence  c^  narrow  souh  are-  absolute  dis- 
tnist  and  base  eovjF,  When  ignorance  is  iib- 
vested  with  power,  the  first  and  oofy  use  it 
nahcs  of  it  is  in  the  persecutioai  of  talents,  in  the 
destruction  of  knowledge,  and  the  imnibilaticai 
of  liberal  ideas  and  io^tutions.  Despotism*, 
devoid  of  all.  mental  illumination,  ia  the  ideas 
of  philosophy  capaUe  of  devoting  and  re&ing' 
tjie  moral  pcineiple  of  mankind,  beholds:  natbii^ 
but  the  satire  a£  its  own  incapacity,  and  tlw 
overthrow  of  a  power  which  is  onl^  founded  oa 
violence.  How,  therefore,  ia  it  posaiUe  that 
the  Osmanlifl)  to  whom  none  of  these  negative, 
qualities  are  wantu^,  can  lighten  the  heavy  and 
galling  yoke  under  which  they  endeavour  to 
chain  down  the  courage  and  £iculttes  a;f  the 
Greeks  ?  With  regard  to  the  other  means,  we- 
have  only  to  remember  the  Gill  of  Selim  IIl.,.and' 
the  well'known  catastrophe  of  the  fiuaous  H<hi9^ 
tapba  Bairaktar,to  be  convinced  that  their  execiw 
tiofiisimpracticaUe.   The  experience  whic^  the. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


Atltliar  hii  btm  uUt  tei  aHfiAte  AistUig  Kit  m 
siAetiM  i*  tke  Epltiii  lias  had  M  otHef  totteiUiy 
than  t«  eorl9fm  hiiil  in  this  iipMai. 

I(  is  Mljr  in  im  poMgiiil  balitnat  6f'Eliftll«( 
fltat  ar«  («  M  ItMfId  ne  sHe  AMM  df  pUMV' 
lug  (be  Ot'tOAiiUl  ei8(>il'(i  fhMt  the  i«(allibl6  fiiifl 
wicli  VIMh  it  ft  IMItaiiei  by  flte  ^tfjMb^  aM  !»■ 
««f^ts  of  it*  neighbours.-  TBe  otfeupitHoA  df 
tke  lofiiari  Islands  by  England  may  Affl  aHford 
ft^  fbis  fotterirtg  Mpit&  a  ebn^idefable  SUpftdf^ 
«Ad,  ill  ^M  ef  He^di  Hny  tiftllsV  it  *ith'  lMl% 
thnt  sacddtj?.  The  rtrtit  of  tBe  BriH*  gtj*  ' 
♦efftiMrM  at  VieiiiM  arid  St.  Fet6Wb(#g  liia}^, 
anil  ought  also,  fo  produce  ai^  ififluenii6  fti^tit' 
iMe  tA'  tfte  existalce  6f  (be  Tufks  M  Eurdp«; 
le  is  ih»diigh  tfiis  iMueuce  done  tbst  their  «r«il' 
wrf  «ftty  eaft  be  eakledi  ibc  H  is  onfy  db  t»« 
eisntiiliiiit  that  ffiey  are  tdbe  *eB  defttldedj 
MM  it  issslet^by  <!a!)i«g  tbeattdntibB  of  Rusjk 
and  Austria  to  other  objects  that  it  is  poS^le 
td  prtvent  atf  MvasibHj  Whldli  wihiM  be  too 
Mpid  aftey««ds  ta  be  sMp^M  if  it  Had'  not  pite^ 
vioustf  been  ferfeeeti  and  db^ueted.    . 

Ttie  iwtetidt  of  Turkey  in  Eufdpe  ptestiW* 
BO  adieqaaee  ^ohtt  of  lUilitarjr  defbtfc&  TSe 
fcw fdftMaBes tdbe ntet  with  in tbe ceimal pHji. 
ttsdei  dre'bdf  (Ssnailtled;  to^ew  dtlffle  ijliiii. 
Mliehed:!:  HAT  WdfM  Kav«  been  [it«{>al<ijtd'  (I» 
taii  IkoM  gr«i(t  «Mjlu<ts  <^  itiftni-  ^liioh'  4«e 

,    L  iiiz .Google 


46S  DETEKCfl   at  TUBKBT.      f CHAf.  XUI. 

have^ready delineated.;  Wherefore, two battlei 
lost  witliin  the  line  of  frontiers,  woald  be  suffi- 
cient to  disperse  the  Turkish  ^my,  which,  if 
only  followed  up  in  a  close  manner,  would  be 
unable  to  lind  a  position  on  which  to  rally.  The 
weakness  and  incapacity  of  the  divan  having 
served  to  encourage  the  insubordination  of  the 
greatest  part  of  the  pachas,  and  to  secure  their 
independence,  has  prepared  another  not  less 
dangerous  means  of  destruction.  Scarcely 
would  the  enemy  be  arrived  at  the  centre  of 
the  empire,  where  the  pachas  of  the  western  pro- 
vinces would  hasten  to  proceed  towards  their 
respective  governments,  to  watch  over  their 
own  particular  interests.  It  is  then  beyond 
doubt  that  all,  more  especially  the  Vizir  of  Jo- 
annina,  would  seek,  by  Bxtng  each  his  price,  to 
save  for  themselves  some  remnant  of  their  power 
from  thegi^neral  destruction  they  beheld  around 
them. 

As  long  as  Italy  has  remained  at  least  neutral 
in  the  aflairs  of  Turkey,  the  intervention  of 
France  has  sufficed  to  remove  and  even  to  dissi- 
pate the  storm  by  which  the  Ottora^a  empire 
was  threatened.  If  Italy  were  independent  of 
every  foreign  power,  and  formed  into  a  state 
capable  of  being  placed  in  the  GiBt  rank  in  the 
balance  of  Europe,  her  influence  would  then  be 
still  greater ;  since  sh^  is  aeai;  at  hand^  avd  tog 

DolizodbyGoOgle 


CHAP.  Ttltl.]      DEPEKCE  OP  liraKET.  469 

essentially  threatens  the  centre  of  the  Austrian 
power  for  the  latter  to  make  use  of  her  forces 
against  the  dominions  of'  Turkey.  But  now 
that  Italy  is  at  the  disposid  of  Austria,  no  conti- 
nental guarantee  exists  in  favour  of  the  Ottoman 
empire  but  that  of  the  general  interest  of  Europel 
It  therefore  devolves  on  En^and  to  watch 
that  this  interest  is  not  affected  by  a  fresh  over- 
throw of  the  political  balance  of  Europe :  her 
commerce  in  the  Mediterranean,  and  the  per- 
manency of  her  troops  in  the  Ionian  Islands, 
depend  on  this  precaution ;  in  like  manner  as  on 
the  interest  of  this  trade,  and  the  possession  of 
the  Ionian  Islands,  in  great  measure  depends 
the  salvation  of  the  Ottoman  empire. 

■  Before  we  terminate  this  chapter,  the  reader, 
fond  of  calling  to  mind  the  feats  of  the  ancients, 
will  hot  perhaps  be  displeased  to  find  in  this 
place  a  survey,  or  rather  a  succinct  description, 
of  the  wars  which  the  Romans  carried  on  against 
the  Macedonians  in  the  provinces  now  belong- 
ing to  the  dominions  of  Ali  Pacha.  Such  a  re- 
search is,  besides,  liighly  illustrative  of  many 
points  established  in  the  preceding  pages.  This 
description,  so  well  drawn  byXivy,  and  which, 
it  has  hitherto  been  impossible  to  follow  by  the 
aid  of  a  map,  owing  to  the  deficiency  of  geo- 
graphical information  respecting  the  Epirus  and 
Albania,  forcibly  struck  the  Author  when  he 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


h«  flAtt8r$  hitRsi^lf  it  will  no(  be  49v^  9f  w^ 
tciwet  to  the  f^tneTBlity  of  bfa  'fia4er»,  * 

In  the  yatt  of  Rob»  ^88,  •ceordiog  tp  tbo 
t^toaahgy  o^  the  CapitoHaUa  mw^les;  fibe 
Boinsni,  desirous  j^  Avenging  themp^y^s  9A 
nulip,  King  of  MacQ^oq,  whp  during  tlis  59* 
cond  Pupic  war  !i»d  cwjcIh^wI  »  treaty  of  alii- 
anoe  vilh  Haoaibal,  deahred  war  ag^pst  hiw* 
The  Conaul  Sqlpicius  Qnlba  wsp  eotri^t^d  with 
the  oommand  of  vi  army  d«eMi)«4  to  act  vgaiiKl; 
Maeedon,  and  which  ha^pg  a9q«miUfd  at^  ^9" 
disi,  crosMd  thr  wa  and  eflfa^ped  0^  tflfi 
River  Apius,  bctwe^  MesaJfis  and  "ff^piU  t 
From  this  pQMtiQq  the  CoitBul  S9Ut  ApvutiMHi 
poa  of  his  liputenaqts,  with  part  of  th«  ^rmyt  as 
irell  to  recannoitr*  the  eneiny^a  ^esa  0$  to 
vavagc  the  firontien  of  MacedoR*  properly  so 
called.  Apustiui,  having  aaeended  tho  valley  of 
the  Apsiis,  took  and  pillaged  aevfira)  towBS  w 
eattlas,  aoHMg  which  I<ii^  mcptionA  Gfrrunitmt 

*  The  confinod  acale  ff  our  q)^  baving  precluded  part  of 
the  detail!  neceuary  for  the  Aill  compreheoaioti  of  the  text 
of  lAvj,  the  rafder,  wbo  nugr  fM  deilibiii  of  fallowing  un 
tfca  iaiJitai7  detaili  about  to  h«  pmept^  iwy  hflVP  'e<rwHW 
t?  tjio  niBfi  of  d)e  4oq^9Qr  (f  ^  P4d>^  now  pqblwhiqg 
bjr  g^,  Str?n4. 

t  "  CoHtui  Suf^uteoUmporeinierApoBoHiamacDyTn' 
thium  ad  AjauM  JlumeH  hcAAat  eaOro,"  Ac, — Lit.  Hb.  suL 
«^.  87. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHxp-rxm.]    asamcB  of  rvaxsi  -471 

or  Otnau  (ZenduroM),  and  Antipatrla^  irtikli^ 
'he  mejSy  vrafi  shxisted  in  a  iianow  d(^  leadiDg 
to  tlie  country  of  tiieDessBrette.  Oo  his  return 
ApQ8l3us  wai  attadced  at  the  Crossing  of  the 
^psQs  by  oneof  Philip's  geoerals,  named  Athe- 
nagoras }  but  he  'trkhdrew  wkh  advantage  from 
tliiB  BsfcMMeea  attack,  and  rejoined  (be  Consul 
mthotitlost. 

During  this  expedition  Sulpicius  concluded  a 
^tFcarty  vidi  the  Dardanians  and  Amynander, 
King  of  the  AthmRaneB.  The  ^rst  engird  to 
alter  Macedon  by  the  valley  of  the  AxitiA 
(Vardar),  and  tb«  province  of  Paeooia,  and  the 
other  promised  to  prevail  oB*the  iCtolions  to 
attack  FhUip.  'Die  latter,  on  his  side,  baring 
beea  apprised  of  the  arrival  of  the  Consul  in  the 
lllyrian  provinces  of  his  -dontinions,  did  not 
neglect  his  preparations  of  defbnce.  Havmg 
put  an  end  to  the  active  war  he  was  carrying  on 
against  the  Athenians,  and  united  his  fleet  at 
Demetrias  (near  V<rio),  he  proceeded  with  his 
jumy  towards  Mount  Tomarus  (Toaierit),  and 
the  frontiers  of  the  Lynce^  district,  in  the  di- 
rection ctf  Illyria.  la  otder  to  oppose  the  inva- 
sion of  the  Dardanians,  he  detached  a  corps 
wider  the  orders  of  bis  son  Perseus,  th«i  a  child, 
but  to  whom  he  gave  skilful  generals  to  guide 
him,  ordering  him  to  march  towards  the  fron- 
tiers of  Deuriopus,  for  the  purpose  of  defend- 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


47%  VfitZXlCE  or  TUlftKET.      [CHAI'.  Xllt. 

ing  the  deffles  8itu&.ted  th«r«.  The  above  d». 
irict  of  Oeilriopus  formed*  the  southera  part  of 
of  Poeoniaj  fcnd  its  frontiers  were  covered  to* 
wards  Uie  N.,by  a  divergent^  ridge  of  Mount 
Boreas,  wiiicb  was  crossed  .through  a  defile 
opeoing  b^We^n  Gurbita  (Perlepe)  and  Attfoi- 
sarus  (Koprili),  in  the  .place  marked  in  the 
Feutengerian  map  under  the  name  of  Pr(Z«i> 
diutn.  ' 

The  Consul,  however^  bad  quitted  his  posi< 
tipn  on  the  Apsus,  and  .ascending  its  course 
had  approached  the  fiontiers  of  the  Dessarets. 
He  took  up  his  quarters  towards  Mount  To- 
mar^s,  near  a  river  which  Livj  calls  Revusi  and 
which '  mu&t  be  the  one  passing  by.  Noskopoli.  ^ 
Learning  that  Philip  was  approaching  him  with 
his  army,  and  presuming  that  he  was  not  far 
distant,  he  sent  out  a  reconnoitring  party  of 
cavalry  towards  the  country  of  tlie  Dessaretffi 
and  the  lake  of  Ochrica.  The  'King  of  Mace- 
don  bad  done  the  same,  and  the  meeting  of 
these  two  parties  brou^t  on  an  actios,  at  the 
issue  of  which  Philip,  beihg  informed  of  the 
position  occupied  by  the  Romans,  proceeded  to 
establish  his  camp  very  near  that,  of  the  Consul. 
Nevertheless,  believing  himself  not .  sufficiently 


*  "  Ad  LyncuTH  stativa  posuit  pnpe^fim 
lib,  xxxi,  cap.  53. 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


-fcMAPi'SIHJ]    BEFENCE  OF  TURRET.    '  AtS 

strong  to  run  the  riek  of  a  gfeftieral  battle,  he 
recalled  his  son  Perseus  from  Deuriopus,  ia 
order  to  reinforce  his  army  by  his  aid.  ■  During 
the  few  days  tiie  two  arinies  remained  in  this 
position  several  small  actions  of  light  troops 
took  place,  the  advantage  of  which  was  on  the 
side  of  the  Romans,  but  the  consul  was  unable 
to  force  Philip  to  accept  a  general  engagement. 
Sulpiciusbeingpressedthrough  the  wantof  pro- 
visions, notwithstanding  he  had  brought  escorts 
of  wheat  in  his  rear  fi'ctra  Apollooia,  and  fearing 
to  expose  his  troop*  too  much  by  Bending  them 
out  to  forage  so  near  the  enemy,  *  put, his  army 
in  motioHj  and  took  up  a  position  at;tout  eight 
miles  froffl'  Ids  former'  one,  near  the  town  ot 
Ocio/epAc  '(N<&kopoH).  From  thence  he  sent 
outa'partof  his  troJxpsUo  forage  in  the  country; 
and  Philip,  in  order  to  inspire  him  with  more 
confidence,  affected  to  keep  himself  shut  up  in 
his  <:amp.  The  Romans  in  ^ct  after  some  days 
relaxed  from  all  precaution  ^  when  the  King  of 
Macedon  having  learnt  that  they  were  scattered 
over  the  country  without  any  corps  of  reserve, 
and  even  without  an  advanced  guard,  came  out 
d  his  camp  with  the  whole  of  his  cavalry  and 
light  infantry,  and  placed  himself  between  the' 

■■■  *  "  Quia  ex  tarn  jnropinquis  stativispartim  tutajrumen- 

tatio  erat.  dispersoi  milites  fer  agrot  efuilibiu  extemplo  inva- 
wrM."— .Liv.  lib.  xxxi.  cap.  94>.  - 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


S»agen  and  their  catnp.  Whilst  PhUip  in 
person  wilii  one  baU*  of  bi«  troops  occupied  aU 
the  points  pf  Kceas,  tbe  oUierbalf  attacked  tiie 
ditpetsed  BxHnans,  and  eaaily  overcame  them. 
Some  of  the  fiigidvet  bB-rmg  however  reached 
tbeir  camp*  and  therein  spread  the  alevm,  the 
eonsul  caused  his  cavalry  to  come  out.  fdlowed 
by  his  legioDBi  and  marched  with  dl  posable 
haste  to  the  succour  of  the  ^Hagers.  wh<Mn  he 
fiwod  flying  in  disorder^  and  pursued  on  all 
sides.  This  unfiH'eseen  attack  dMconcerted  the 
Macedonians*  who  in  their  turn  were  put  to 
the  rout,  and  pursued  as  &r  as  their  can^> 
Part  of  them  perished  in  a  marsh  near  the  6eld 
of  battle,  and  Philip  himsdif,  thrown  by  his 
wounded  horse,  would  have  been  taken  or  killed* 
if  one  of  his  horsemen  had  not  supplied  him 
with  the  means  of  escaping. 

Although  the  battle  of  Octolophe  did  oof 
cost  the  Macedonians  more  than  about  300 
men,  *  Philip  no  longer  cmiceived  himself  safe 
in  the  position  he  held,  and  for  the  puipose  c^ 
deceiving  the  Consul,  after  tending  a  herald  to 
demand  a  suspension  of  arms,  under  a  plea  oi 
burying  the  dead,  he  put  his  army  in  moticm 
during  the  night  which  ft^Iowed  the  battle,  and 

.  *  **  Ducenii  Macedontim  estates  to  pralio  perUre,  cenhtm 
Jenu  captif  odoginta  admodtun  omati  equi,  tpoliit  timul  or' 
taorvm  rdatu,  abducti." — Liv.  Ub>  xxxi.  caf^.  S7< 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


W/tf .  KW-l     WlfW»^  W  TWW5T,  H/7S 

(liFpet^d  his  coune  iOTvjffdB  the  centre  of  bis 
doovoi^og.  The  Kiflg  of  Mneedtm  first  took 
mp  fiifl  iw^UoB  ftt  Bryanwn  (BiJilBta),  -whence 
he  sept  Athefisgoras,  oae  of  his  generab,  to 
de^nd  the  province  ef  Pawwift,  into  which  the 
DwdftPiatls  aod  Illyrianf  had  entered  with  a  nu- 
merous pFoiy.  Thence  having  learnt  that  the 
wam\  4^>r0ached,  he  again  put  hii  troc^  in 
motfoQ,  md  proceeded  along  the  frontier!  of 
MaoedoD  properly  m  called.  Sulpicius,  boT'- 
ever,  having  diwovered  the  d^arture  of  the 
MaoedoniaDs,  aad  not  knowing  what  road  the 
King  hod  taken,  remained  several  days  longer 
at  O^tolopbe,  in  order  to  forage,  and  thence 
marched  near  Stuhra  (Konitza),  whence  he 
eansed  the  wheat  to  be  brought  to  his  camp 
vhiob  the}'  had  been  able  to  collect  in'  Fd^ 
gonia  TdpoUtiB-  This  operation  being  ended, 
the  Consul*  retracing  his  steps  towards  Oeto. 
lophe.  first  marched  in  the  direction  of  P/u- 
ViKa,  which  was  mo9t  probably  situated  between 
Qoftsa,  Fhilurina*  and  Monasttr.  Having  still 
received  no  news  of  the  King  of  Macedon,  he 
advanced  further  into  the  country,  and  pitched 
1m  (WBp  on  the  margin  of  the  Ospbagus,  or  the 
Hver  of  Monaatir. 

Philip,  nevertheless,  was  not  &r  distant,  being 
bdiind  the  river  Erigon  ( Vistritza),  the  binka 
of  which  he  had  fortified,  and  was  making  every 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


«76  DEPEKCt  OF  TORKEY.      [cHAP.  XI«. 

preparation  to  defend  the  'passage.  Judging/ 
however,  by  the  mantBuvres  of  the  Roman  ge- 
nerals, that  it  was  their  intention  to  penetrate 
into  Macedonian  Eordaea  (corresponding  to  the 
district  of  Siatista  and  part  of  Dshuma^Bazar), 
be  set  about  intrenching  the  defiles,  particu- 
larly those  situated  between  Kastoria  and  Phi- 
lurina,  which  are  still  extremely  difficult  Some 
Tere  closed  up  by  intrenchments,  and  others 
by  ditches,  whilst  others  again  were  to  be  de- 
fended by  stones  and  trees,  arranged  in  such 
manner  as  to  be  hurled  down  on  the  enemy. 
The  length  of  the  pikes,  and  the  manner  in 
which  his  soldiers  were  armed,  preventing  hiiti 
irom  employing  Macedonian  or  Thracian  pha- 
langists  in  the  forests  with  Which  this  country  is 
corered,  he  placed  Cretan  light  infantry  there. 
.  These  obstacles,  however,  didnot  prevent  the 
Romans  from  entering  into  Eordsea }-  the  good- 
ness of  their  arms  covering  them  from  the  blows 
cf  the  Cretans,  also  defended  them  from  the 
stones  rolled  down  upon  them,  whence  they  suf- 
fcred  less  from  the  enemy  than  the  difficulty  of 
the  roads,  and  even  their  loss  was  inconsider- 
able. The  Consul  having  in  a  few  days  ravaged 
Eordffia,  which  was  a  poor  country,  he  drew  off 
towards  EUymea  (the.  district  of  Grevna  and 
Gorbista),  whence  he  marched  towards  the 
country  called  Orestts,  and  took  possession  of 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


•HAP.XHI.]     DEPENCB  OF  TURRET.  47t 

Ceieirum  (Kastoria).  Here  the  text  of  Livy 
would  require  a  long  commentary,  and  would 
perhaps  be  impossible  to  explain,  if  the  ante- 
cedents and  description  of  Celetrum  did  not 
come  in  to  our  aid.  Without  entering  into  a 
long  detail,  which  the  Author  reserves  for  a 
work  on  military  antiquity,  which  at  a  future 
period  he  intends  to  publish,  he  will  coniine 
himself  to  the  pointing  out  of  the  following  cir- 
cumstances:—  1st,  Sulpicius  departs  from  Ely- 
msea,  situated  near  the  sources  of  the  Halyac- 
inon, to  enter  the  district  of  Oiestis.  2d,  After 
the  capture  of  Celetrum  he  besieges  and  takes 
Pelium  (Plia).  3d.  Celetrum  was  situated  on 
a  peninsula  almost  surrounded  by  a  lake.  *  It 
is  tbsrefore  evident  from  the  two  first  circum- 
stances that  Celetrum  stood  nearly  between 
Grevna  and  Plia;  and  the  third  can  correspond 
to  no  other  place  than  Kastoria.  After  the 
taking  of  Celetrum  the  consul  enters  into  the 
country  of  the  Dessaret£e,  where  be  made  him- 
self master  of  Pelium.  Having  found  this  port 
convenient,  and  capable  of  securing  to  him  the 
cneans  of  fe-entering  Macedon,  he  left  a  strong 
grarrison  there,  and  returned  and  took  up  his 
winter-quai'ters  in  Apollonia. 

■*  " Oppidum  Celetrum  eslaggressus,  in  peninsula  titum. 

Laau  mania- cingH !  angugiitjhucibus  vnunt  ex- CoiUittenttiter 
«i»-"-AU».  lib. »«.  (sap.  40. , 


^oiizodbyGoogle 


47*  !>&»»(»  6t  vtr)t«:fctv    [c^Ap.ntfi 

^verttielesft  the  ^tolums,  d«eMed  by  tfatf 
battle  of  Oefolophe,  tt  well  at  d^e  to'haiMt'  df 
the  Dardaaians  tatd  Iflymos,  hdd  takes  tN 
ield  with  Amyoander,  King  of  the  AthiM»M9<: 
They  first  penetrated  hito  the  PHbicMis  disttk^ 
where  they  took  Cirektium  (ne»  VeJeettia),  anA 
Aettee  having  crossed  the  Fetiettft  Itf  the  n<^y^ 
bouiiHNxi  of  lArissft,  they  mode  t^nttelt^ 
masters  of  Cyretia  (TzintzianiX  fl»  weS  A9  <tf 
sererat  other  small  places.  The  Romdii^  antiy 
being  at  (hat  time  preparing  £e  retHra  to  Ih^ 
Epirus,  the  iBtt^ans,  through  the  adflee  <tf 
AmynandcF,  directed  their  mardb  ttM^ards 
Gon^hi  (Katabaki),  which  they  expected  eauti; 
to  take,  and  which  was  ait  importsnt  poetfj 
owing  to  its  commending  Afhaittat^  tind  thi 
defiles  leading  through  thisceafitry  kfto.£t«4r« 
They  came  and  pitched  their  eamp  near'  FhiM4 
(in  the  vicinity  of  Kalabaki),  where  Aevf  baikder; 
fortimately  perceiving  the  ingubof  diflSU'on  Whii^ 
reigned  in  their  armyy  separated  &oai  theitt,  tttiA 
took  up  a  position  on  a  height  sltiiated  at  4 
flneH  ^stance.  Philips,  at  that  time  refie^^ed 
fiom  the  pressune  of  the  Homani;  mrpri^ed 
fbem  a  Ssn  days  afterwards,  and  Would  MMiretjl^ 
have  destroyed  them  if  Aiaytnttt^  fiad  lMt\ 
first  covered  them  by  bis  position,  and  after* 
wards  directed  them  in  th^i  fli^it  through-  the 
defiles  of  Athamania.    lafasBthw^uartev  Atb^ 


soiizodbyGoogle 


CHAP,  xm.];  Dxiracff  a»  idreit;  479 

lu^ocas  huii^  come  up  wUfa  the  Dardanian^ 
•mho  were  r«treatui;  whh  »  neb  booty,  attacked 
them  ia  the  defiles  o£  Paoma.  The  Dardo- 
Baans^however,  fighting  in  a  cour^eom  manner, 
and  perfomtog  tbeir  retreat  in  good  order,  were 
not  broken,  and  lost  very  few  men.  After  theser 
actions,  FbiHp  having  in  vain  endeavoured  Cat 
take  Thmanaci  (Thevmako),  and  being  unable 
to  sutisiin  himself  in  these  mtHintainB,  wfaere  the 
^totians  hataued  him  continuallj',  returned 
into  Macedon  to  take  op  his  winter-qu»ten; 

The;fiiUowing  year  the  charge  of  conducting 
the  war  ;^sinst  Philip  wa»  givea  to  the  Consul 
Villiusy  vho  estaUished  himself  with  his  amy 
at  Corfu.  The  King  of  Maicedon,  on  bis  part, 
having  made  great  levies  in  his  dominions,  wid 
enrolled  many  foreign  troops,  took  the  field  at 
die  commencement  of  spring.  He  first  sent 
Athenagoras,  with  all  his  light  troc^w,  into  the 
Epinu^  in  (»der  to  occvi^  the  defiles  of  Klis- 
Boura.  *  The  king  tmnself  fc^twed  won  after- 
wards, and  having  cvdered  Atbenagoraa  to  take 
up  a  position  on  one  aide  of  the  river  Aous 
(Vojutaa),  on  the  mountain  c^led  Asnam,  and 
there  to  intrench  with  his  light  troi^,  he  posted 
liiaiself  with'  the  remainder  of  his  army  on  the 

'  •-  n  .^.  Qua  tut  Antigoniam  JJtueet  nntf,  f  Siena  weuxf 
efr^eiJt  mmf."— lir.  lib.  sxrai.  c^  5. 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


490  DCrENCS  OF  THRKXT..     [cHAP.  Xllt. 

oppoHte  TDDubtain,  "called  Mropus.  '  Having 
tsuaed  all  the  accessible  passages  to  be  lined 
vith  iotrenCbmenta,  and  armed  thiem  with  a  great 
number  of  warlike  .lu&chines,  he  awaited  the 
coming  of  tbe  Roman  army  in  this  post.  The; 
cpnanlv  however,  being  apprised  by  dharops, 
Mie  of  the  principal  Epirotian  chiefe,  of  the 
strbDg  and  important  post  occupied  by  Philip, 
lefl  Corfu,  and  having  landed  his  army  on  the 
continent,  encamped  on  the  Aous,  towards  Te- 
peleoi,  at  five  miles  distance  from  the  enemy. 
Having  reconnoitered  in  order  to  leam  the 
exact  situation  of  the  Macedonians,  he  as- 
sembled a  council  of  war,  to  whose  deliberation 
be  submitted  the  plan  of  campaign  that  was 
to  be  followed.  It  was  debated  for  some  time 
whether  it  would  be  advisable,  to  attack  the 
enemy  in  front,  or  to  follow  the  plan  of  cam-' 
paign  adopted  by  the  Consul  Sulpiciua  tbe  pre- 
ceding year.  The  summer  was,  passed  over  in 
deliberations,  and  still  nothing  had  b^n  de- 
cided, when  the  news  of  the  fresh,  elections  ar- 
rivedtand  advices  were  brought  that  the  Consul 
T.  Quintius  Flaminias  was  named  to  conduct 
tbe-Macedonian  war.        ■.  .    . 

The  latter,  having  ^Qii  afterwards  joined  tbe 
army,  re-assembled  the  council  of  war,  and 
a^in  laid  before  it  the  plan  of  capipaign  ikiit 
was  to  be  followed.     He  possibly  might  have  fe> 


SiailizodbvGoOgle 


CHAP.XIII.^     -DEFENCE   OFTORKET.  4SI 

•olved  to  resume  the  same  steps  Sulpiciua  had 
chosen*  if  he  had  sot  feared  that  by  remOfving 
himself  to  so  great  a  distance  from  the  sea  the 
eneiny  might  escape,  and  that  Philip,  availing 
himself  of  the  nature  of  the  ground,  woody, 
and  intersected  with  mountains,  might  compd 
him  to  spend  the  remainder  of  the  campaign  in 
marches  and  couate^'nmrches.  He  therefore 
formed  the  resolution  to  attack  the  Macedo- 
nians in  front,  but  still  be  was  unaware  how  this 
enterprize  was  to  be  attempted.  *  Forty  days 
were  passed  in  this  state  of  uncertainty,  and 
during  this  time  be  had  an  interview  with  Philip, 
without,  however,  being  able  to  agree  on  the 
conditions  of  peace.  At  length  an  Epirotian 
shepherd,  sent  by  Charops,  presented  himself 
to.  the  Consul,  and  pointed  out  to  him  a  path  by 
which  he  might  turn  the  enemy's  positions. 
The  Consul  having  secured  the  shepherd  by  pro- 
mising him  a  large  reward,  detached  under  his 
guidance  a  body  of  4000  in&ntry  and  300  horse, 
commanded  by  a  legionary  tribune.  He  or- 
dered the  tribune  to  direct  the  cavalry  to  take 
up  a  position  as  soon  as  they  arrived  at  that  part 
of  the  road  no  longer  practicable  for  horse,  and 
to  inform  him,  by  means  of  a  fire  lighted  on 

*  "  UtnangUe  esiet  igitur,    iUo  ipso  tarn  wiufao  loco  ag' 
gr^hotUm  placuit;  ted  magU^fieri  id placebat,  quam,  fat- 
mado^et,  uOit  tsptdiAia." — Liv.  lib.  xxxii.  dp.  9. 
31 


_  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


4SS  DBrSKCE   OF   TtTRKKT.      f  CHAP  .All. 

the  higfaeBt  summit  of  the  mouDtaio,  of  the  mo- 
inent  when  be  should  have  gained  s  position 
above  the  enemy's  camp.  He  forbade  him, 
however,  fi:om  making  any  noise,  or  attacking 
before  he  teas  apprized  that  both  armies  were 
engaged,  by  a  signal  that  was  to  be  made  to 
him.  •  ' 

During  two  whole  days  he  harassed  the 
«nemy  on  all  points  of  their  intrenchments, 
evincing  a  disposition  to  force  them.  On  the 
third  day,  having  seen  the  Hgnal  of  the  tribune, 
Plaminiiis  divided  his  army  into  three  corps, 
said  marched  direct  upon  the  enemy.  Himsdf 
in  person,  at  the  head  of  his  chosen  troo^ 
took  the  centre,  and  penetrated  into  the  bottoa 
of  the  valley,  whilst  his  wings  attacked  the 
enemy's  camps.  The  Macedonians  came  forth 
from  their  intrenchments  to  meet  the  Romans; 
but  having  been  easily  broken,  they  again  fled 
behind  their  ramparts.  There  the  Komans 
were  stopped,  and  would  have  been  repelled  if 
the  tribune  had  not  come  down  in  the  rear  <^ 
the  enemy  with  great  noise.  Hie  Macedonians, 
alarmed  at  this  unforeseen  attack,  were  soon  put 
to  the  rout;  and  their  wholf;  army  might  have 

*  *'  I  Vbi,  vi  palUceretur,  super  cajmt  hottwm  perventavt 
a^Jitiiioda^  signumt  nee  aide  daniorem  tailere,  ^uam  ah  te 
t^gno  taapto  pugnata-  cceptam  ariitrari  foaet."'—lJ.'r.  ih, 
mxsii.  ci^;.ll. 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


<MJ»."xm.]      BBPENOE  'dF  TURKE*.  483 

been  destroyed  oil  this  day  if  the  difficulty  ci 
the  roads  had  not  impeded  the  Roman'  cavalry; 
Bnd  also  the  legionaty  infentry,  through  the 
weight  of  their  arms. 

The  king  was  not  the  last  to  escape ;  but  being 
arrived  at  five  miles  distance  from  the  ileld  o( 
battle,  and  Seeing  tbat  he  could  not  be  pursued* 
he  halted,  and  attempted  to  rally  his  army.  The 
greatest  part  of  the  &gitives  had  gained  the 
woods,  and  were  proceeding  with  all  haste  to^ 
vards  Thessaly,  so  that  he  was  un^le  to  coIlecC 
more  than  about  2000  men,  with  whom  he  con- 
iinded  his  retreat  with  so  much  rapidity,  that 
tfae  first  day  he  arrived  at  a  place  called  Castrd 
Pyrrhi  (near  Ostanitza),  and  the  pecond  at 
Mount  Lingon  (Metzovo),  which  separates  the 
iE^niB  from  Thessaly  and  Macedon.  *  There 
Kiilip  remained  several  days,  undecided  whe- 
ther he  should  at  ouce  retire  into  Macedon  or 
«3ter  into  Thessaly.  He  however  formed  the 
project  of  disbanding  his  army  in  the  latter 
province,    and  withdrew  by  Tricca  (Trikala), 

*  "  Sex  prmo  lUt  ad  Cattra  P^rrki  petvenit  t  loetu,  qikaa 
ita  wcunl,  est  in  Triplu/lia  terra  Meiotidu/  in^e  po^^  ^ 
(ingent  iter  agndnu,  sed  mehu  urgebatj  in  mmiem  Liftofn 
perrexit  i  ipti  monta  Epiri  iunl,  interjeOi  "Mactdonia  J'iiessa' 
Haqne.  Lotus,  quad  verpt  in  Tkesealiam.,  oriens  spectat  .■ 
.Mpfenfm  i  Macedoma  «bpMiitr."—~lAy.  lib.  TVK%iu  pap.  13. 
2  1  2 


soiizodbyGoogle 


484  DEFENCE   OF   TUREET.       [cHjtP.XUI. 

sacking  and  devastating  the  towns  he  found 
on  his  road.  Having  becfn  unable  to  open 
the  gates  of  Pherie,  he  entered  into  Mac&< 
don. 

The  ^tolians  at  the  newa  of  the  success 
gained  by  the  Romans  near  the  river  Aous 
then  entered  into  the  valley  of  the  Sperchius, 
and,  having  taken  Sperchtum  (Kerbenesz),  pro* 
cEieded  on  into  Thessaly,  through  the  valley  of 
the  Apidanus  (Apidano),  and  attempted  -  to 
seize  on  Metropolis  (Phlamaristi) ;  but  having 
been  repelled  by  the  inhabitants,  after  some 
other  incursions,  and  after  ravaging  the  whole 
of  the  country  situated  on  the  left  of  the  Pe- 
ncus,  they  took  the  castle  of  Cyphdra  (Korza)» 
which  cQnunanded  the  passages  from  Theasaly 
into  jEtolia,  and  the  couptry  of  the  Athamanes 
and  Dolopes.  Amynander,  how6V«,  placing 
no  great  reliance  on  his  own  people,  demanded 
and  obtained  a  body  of  Roman  troops,  with 
which  he  firet  took  the  town  of  Phoeca,  situated 
at  a  small  distance  from  Kalabaki,  on  the 
northern  declivity  of  Mount  Agrapho,  and  af- 
terwards straitened  the  town  of  Gomphi  (Ka- 
kbaki)  so  much  that  he  compelled  it  to  sur- 
render. This  double  incursion,  and  particularly 
the  last,  spread  so  qiuch  terror  throughout 
Thessaly,  that  this  province  no  longer  thought 


bv  Google 


«HA]p,Xni.3      DEFENCE  OV  TUBEET.  '48^ 

of  bpposing  the  smallest  resistance  to  the  Roman 
army  that  was  approaching. 

After  the  victory  gained  over  Philip,  the 
consul  re-entered  his  camp  the  same  day,  being 
satisfied  with  only  causing  the  passages  to  be 
guarded.  Thenext  day  bepassed  thedefilesofthe 
Aous,  and  having  encamped  between  Klissoura 
and  Fremiti,  he  sent  orders  to  his  lieutenant  at 
Corfu  to  cause  the  transports  to  proceed  into 
the  gulf  of  Ambracia.  He  then  proceeded  on 
by  slow  marches,  and  the  fourth  day  encamped 
on  Mount  Cercetius  (between  Zagoria  and  Met- 
zovo).  Being  arrived  on  the  frontiers  of  Thes- 
saly,  he  caused  Amynander  with  his  Athamanea 
to  join  him,  not  that  he  stood  in  need  of  their 
aid,  but  to  serve  as  guides  to  his  army.  Being 
joined  by  these  auxiliaries,  he  entered  Thessaly, 
and  first  took  Pkalera,  situated  between  Met- 
zovo  and  Kalabaki.  Tlie  towns  of  Metropolis 
(Fhlamaristi)  and  Pieria  (Akia)  sent  deputies 
to  him  with  t«rms  of  submission.  From  Pha- 
lera  Flaminius  descended  to  ^ginium,  (Mo- 
kossi),  but  having  judged  this  post  to  be  unas- 
sailable, he  marched  on  Gomphi,  resolving  to 
stop  in  the  vicinity  of  the  latter  place  till  he 
was  assured  that  the  transports  had  arrived  in 
the  gulf  of  Ambracia  (of  Arta).  From  his 
camp  he  sent  several  cohorts  in  echelons  to  Am- 
bracia, to  bring  back  the  provisions  of  which 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


iff  6  pVnVCE  or  TUBKET.      [SHA^.  XnS. 

he  stood  in  need.  *  Between  Gomphi  and  Am- 
bracia  a  difficult  road  at  that  time  exist^t  but 
ihorter  than  that  of  Mount  Lingon  (Metzovo); 
it  is  the  aame  that  now  paases  through  Pirni, 
Todoriana,  and  Trikala,  near  Arta.  Having 
supplied  his  army  with  provisions,  he  .resumed 
bis  march,  and  encamped  not  far  ftom  Larissa, 
near  a  place  called  Atrax  (Turnavo).  Philip, 
on  his  Bide,  not  finding  himself  warmly  piir> 
aued,  had  established  his  camp  in  the  valley  <^ 
Tempe. 

Flaminius  besieged  Atras,  but  fearful  that 
the  vigorous  resistance  of  the  garrison  would 
greatly  protract  his  operations,  and  that  he 
might  thereby  be  compelled  to  pass  the  winter 
in  Thessaly,  he  was  under  the  necessky  <rf  dis- 
continuing the  siege.  Thessidy,  ravaged  by 
Philip,  was  not  in  a  state  to  afibrd  hiqi  the 
means  of  subsistence  ^  and  Acarnania  and  Sto- 
lid had  no  porta  capable  of  receiving  his  shipf 
of  burden  intended  to  furnish  him  with  sup^ 
plies.  He  therefore  resolved  to  wiqter  in  Hiocie^ 
and  seiae  on  the  port  of  4"ticyra  (AapropitiX 
which  appeared  most  cotnmodiQus  for  his  flest 
Having  thus  quitted  bis  c«mp  at  Atrax,  he  en- 

■  *  "  —Exploraio  anie,  virum  Leucadem,  an  sinma  Am- 
hradam  an^rariatenuitsent,Jrumentaium  Ambradam  in  vicen 
cohortes  misk;  et  elt  iter  i  Gdmpku  Ambraciant,  tieut  impe^ 
^tiimtci^etititaspatioj)erirevi.".^i.i^:lii.iz^.  cap.  13. 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


GHiP.Xm.]      DEFENCE   OF   TDBKET.  48*7 

tered  into  Iliocis,  and  took  Anticjra  af^r  a 
weak  resistance.  Ambrysttu  (Arakova^,  Hi- 
tttnpoiis  (Kiapori),  Daulis  (Daulia^,  and  se-* 
Tend  other  places  of  smaller  import,  vera  like- 
wise carried  in  the  same  manner  j  but  it  was 
necessarj  to  lej  a  regular  siege  to  Elatia  (Tur- 
kochori).  This  town  having  at  length  been 
compelled  to  sarrender,  af^er  an  obstinate  re- 
sistance, the  Consul  Flamihiua  put  his  army 
into  winter-quarters  in  Fhocis  and  Locris. 

The  following  year,  on  a  proposition  of  the 
tribunes  of  the  people,  Appius  and  Fulvius,  the 
command  of  the  Macedonian  army  was  conti- 
nued to  Flaminius,  with  the  title  of  Proconsul. 
At  the  commencement  of  the  year,  Philip,  who 
was  in  winter-quarters  at  Demetrias  (near  Volo), 
having  requested  an  interview  with  the  pro- 
consul, this  took  place  in  Nicaa  (Nissa),  neat 
to  Zeitoun,  whither  the  deputies  of  Amynander, 
of  Attains,  King  of  Pei^amo,  as  well  as  of  the 
^tolians  and  Achaians,  accompanied  Flamini- 
us. This  first  interview  having  produced  nO 
result,  as  well  as  a  second,  which  took  place 
the  following  day,  a  third  was  agreed  on  the 
day  afterwards,  at  Thromum.  Philip,  having 
agreed,  as  a  preliminary  condition,  to  withdraw 
his  garrison  from  the  districts  of  Phocis  and 
Locris,  obtained  a  suspension  of  arms  for  two 
months,  for  tHe  purpose  of  sending  ambassadors 


DiailizodbvGoOglc 


4r8S  DCFEKCE   OF   TURKET.       [CHAP.  XIII< 

to  Rome.  But  the  Roman  senate  having  r&. 
ferred  the  conclusion  of  the  negotiations  to  FJa- 
minius,  the  Proconsul,  who  was  by^no  means 
displeased  with  the  prolongatioo  of  a  war  which 
promised  him  success,  refused  to  receive  new 
envoys  irom  the  King  of  Macedon  till  the  latter 
had  evacuated  the  whole  of  Greece. 

The  time  for  commencing  the  campaign  hav- 
ing arrived,  Flaminius  made  himself  master  of 
Thebes  by  surprise,  and  by  this  means  decided 
the  Boeotians  to  enter  into  an  alliance  with  him. 
After  this  he  rejoined  his  army  near  Elatia,  and 
having  put  it  in  motion,  he  passed  the  ThcFmo- 
.  pylte,  and  entered  into  the  district  of  Phthiotis, 
where  he  was  joined  by  Amynander  with  1200 
inOintry,  and  also  received  a  reinforcement  of 
800  Cretans,  or  Apollonians.  The  ^Etolians 
had  already  sent  to  him,  whilst  at  Elatia,  2000 
foot  and  400  horse.  Philip,  on  his  part,  also 
assembled  his  army,  composed  of  16,000  Fha- 
langists,  3000  Peltastaa,  or  light  troops,  200oTraI-. 
lians,  about  1000  hiredtroops  of  different  nations, 
and  2000  cavalry.  The  Roman  army  had  nearly 
the  same  strength  in  infantry,  but,  through  the 
aid  of  the  ^tolians,  it  was  superior  in  cavalry. 
Flaminius  entered  Phthiotis,  encamped  near 
Tkeba  PhtHiotica  (Armiro),  and  having  learnt 
that  the  King  of  Macedon  had  entered  Thes* 
sal^  with  his  army,  he  ordered  his  soldiers  to 


DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CBAF.  Jan.'}      VEBESCZ  OF  TURKET.  489 

prepare  palissades  to  fortify  bis  camp,  and  to 
carry  them  with  them,  according  to  the  custom 
of  the  Roman  troops. 

From  Thebes  the  Proconsul  proceeded  on  in 
military  order  by  slow  marches,  and  arrived  and 
pitched  his  camp  six  miles  from  Phene,  (Veles- 
tin),  whence  he  sent  a  reconnoitring  party  into 
Tbessaly.  The  King  of  Macedon,  however, 
who  had  assembled  his  forces  near  Larissa, 
having  been  apprised  that  the  Roman  army  was 
near  Fherae,  marched  in  advance  of  it,  and  took 
up  a  position  four  miles  from  the  latter  town, 
.  which  thus  became  situated  between  the  two 
armies.  Here  an  action  of  cavalry  took  place 
on  Ihe  heights  above  Pherie,  which  each  party 
sought  to  occupy,  the  one  to  open  a  road  into 
Thessaly,  and  the  other  the  better  to  defend  the 
entrance.  However,  these  difficulties  of  the 
surrounding  ground,  covered  as  it  was  with 
thick  woods,  and  intersected  with  gardens, 
fences,  and  ruins,  having  made  each  general 
apprehensive  of  an  ambuscade,  by  a  species  of 
tacit  accord,  they  determined  to  change  their 
positions,  and  to  approach  Scotussa  (Chalke- 
donio).  The  Proconsul  being  obliged  almost 
to  retrace  his  own  steps,  in  order  to  gain  the 
valley  of  Pharsalia,  encamped  at  Eretria  (Eri- 
qei),  and  Philip  on  the  banks  of  the  Onchestus, 
the  iva^SX  river  passing  by  Rizoroilon.    On  the 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


490         DETEHCE  OF  TDBXET.  f  CHAP.  Xni* 

following  day  Flamioius  pitched  his  camp  in  a 
place  called  Thetidhim,  near  Pharsalia,  and  the 
King  of  Macedon  at  Mclambium,  towards  Sco- 
tossa.  Separated  in  their  march  by  the  crests 
of  the  hills  extending  between  PharsaKa  and 
Vdestin,  the  two  generals  reciprocally  were  ig- 
norant of  each  other's  position ;  and  a  ibg 
irtiich  prevailed  on  the  third  day  prevented  the 
Romans  from  effecting  a  movement. 

Philip,  desirous  to  advance  as  fast  as  he  could, 
without  being  deterred  by  the  fog  which  co- 
vered the  earth,  put  his  army  in  motion;  bat 
the  darkness  preventing  the  standard-bearer* 
from  seeing  their  road,  and  the  soldiers  also 
from  following  them,  he  h^ted  on  the  top  of 
the  hill  called  Cynoscephala,  and  ordered  the 
camps  to  be  pitched.  *  Flaminins  having  re- 
mained in  his  camp  at'Thetidium,  sent  a  recon- 
noitering  party  towards  Scotussa,  composed  of 
:)00  horse  and  1000  infantry.  This  party,  on 
arriving  near  the  hills  where  the  Macedonian 
camp  was  established,  sent  to  inform  the  IVo- 
consul  of  the  vicinity  of  the  enemy,  and  entered 

*  "  Sed  tarn  deiua  caUgo  obcacaverat  dtem,  nt  ne^u*  dgnt- 
Jeri  viam,  nee  tigtia  milita  cernerent ;  agmen  ad  irtceriot  da- 
moret  vagum  velut  errore  noctumo  turbarelur.  Supergmsi  tu- 
nudtu,  qui  Ci/noscephala  vocantur,  relicta  iU  tlatioM  Jirma 
ftiitam  tquitmnque,  posuerunt  caitTa"—\Av.  lib.  XxxiiL 
cap.  7. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


OHAP.Xni.]      DEFENCE  Of  TURKEY*  491 

into  action  with  Philip's  advanced  guard.  The 
disproportion  of  numbers  at  first  caused  the 
Romans  to  be  repulsed,  till  FlamioiuB,  at  the 
reiterated  demand  of  the  commander  of  the 
party,  ordered  them  to  be  sustained  by  500 
horse  and  2000  foot,  headed  by  two  legionary 
tribunes.  The  Macedonians,  in  their  turn  de- 
feated, demanded  succours  of  the  king,  who 
«ent  Atfaenagoras  to  them  with  all  his  auxiliary 
troops  and  cavalry.  The  Romans  were  then 
driven  from  the  heights,  and  their  deteat  would 
have  been  complete  if  the  ^tolian  cavalry,  the 
best  of  Greece,  had  not  covered  their  retreat. 

Philip  being  informed  of  the  flight  of  the 
Romans,  'hastened  to  bring  out  his  army  in 
order  to  pursue  them,  and  Flamintus  was  com- 
pelled to  accept  battle.  Having  placed  the 
Roman  legions  in  reserve,  and  covered  their 
front  by  the  elephants,  he  marched  towards  the 
enemy  with  the  allied  legions  and  Ught  in&ntry; 
whilst  Philip,  *  who  had  issued  from  his  camp 
with  his  phalanx  and  the  Peltasts,  descended 
the  hill  at  a  quick  pace,  having  previously  or- 
dered Nicanor,  one  of  his  generals,  to  follow 
him  with  the  remainder  of  his  army.  Meeting 
his  troops  put  to  flight  by  the  shock  of  the 

*  "  Dextrum  cornu,  elephantU  aiOt  tigna  iiutrnctu,  in  tttbr 
ndiit  r^iquit  t  Uevocum  omniUviamialurain  hoittmvadit."'~- 
Lir.  lib.  xxxiiL  cap.  6. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


492  DEFENCE  OT  TURKET.      [ CHAP.  XIII. 

legions  of  Hamintus,  he  hesitated  ibr  a  mo- 
ment, but  the  approach  of  the  Romans  obliged 
him  to  decide,  and  he  hastened  to  draw  up  his 
forces  in  battle  array.  He  stationed  his  cavalry 
and  light  in&ntry  on  the  right  wing,  and  or- 
dered his  phalanx  to  lay  aside  the  pike,  which 
was  too  inconvenient,  and  to  make  use  of  their 
swords.  *  He  at  the  same  time  doubled  the 
ranks  of  his  phalanx,  which  he  drew  up  32 
deep. 

flaminius,  having  caused  his  combatants  to 
enter  the  ranks,  gave  the  signal  for  battle. 
The  right  wing  of  the  Macedonians,  favoured 
by  the  nature  of  the  ground,  at  first  had  the 
advantage  over  the  allied  legion ;  but  the  pha- 
lanx, whose  depth  rendered  it  more  suitable  for 
a  march  than  battle,  was  thrown  into  disorder 
in  the  act  of  advancing.  The  Proconsul  seeing 
this  inconvenience,  thought  of  availing  himself 
of  it,  and  notwithstanding  his  right  wing  began 
to  lose  ground,  he  caused  the  phalanx  to  be 
charged  by  the  elephants.  This  attack  suc- 
ceeded, and  the  front  ranks  being  overthrown 
on  the  hind  ones,  carried  confusion  among 
them.     A  legionary  tribune  then  detaching 

•  "  Eptites  Uvemque  imnat«ram,  qui  in  prwUo  Jiifrant, 
Jexlro  in  eomu  loeat ;  ceetratoi  et  Macedbnem  ■pkalangem,  hailis 
ptuiiis,  guarttnt  longHtido  impedimenta  erat,  ^adiit  rem  gertre 
Juba," — Liv.  lib.  xxxiii.  cap.  8. 
6 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


CRAP.  ZmO     DEPEtTCB  OF  TURKEY.  498 

faitnself  with  twenty  companies  from  the  right 
wing,  which  he  behdid  ready  to  gain  the  vic- 
tory, turned  the  right  wing  of  the  enemy,  and 
attacked  him  in  the  rear.  *  The  defeat  then 
became  complete  ;  and  Philip,  who  at  first  had 
retired  to  an  elevation  a  little  in  the  rear,  seeing 
that  his  left  wing  was  equally  beaten,  and  that 
the  enemy  approached  htm  on  all  sides,  fled  to 
Gpjmus,  in  the  valley  of  Tempe,  with  the  re- 
mains of  his  army,  and  remained  there  for  se- 
veral days,  endeavouring  to  rally  his  troops. 
The  loss  of  the  Macedonians  in  this  battle 
amounted  to  8000  killed  and  5000  prisoners, 
and  the  conquerors  lost  700  men.  Soon  after- 
wards Philip  sent  to  demand  peace,  and  ob- 
tained it,  but  on  hard  conditions. 

Twenty-six  years  afterwards,  under  the  con^ 
sulate  of  P.  Licinius  and  C.  Cassius,  the  war 
broke  out  afresh  between  the  Romans  and  Per- 
seus, SOD  and  successor  to  Philip.  The  Consul 
Licinius,  to  whom  the  care  of  this  war  was  con- 
fided, embarked  with  bis  army  at  Brindisi,  and 
having  landed  at  port  Nymphsum,  (Dragot), 
near  Apollonia,  he  first  encamped  there,  in 
order  to  make  preparations  to  take  the  field. 

*  "  Umu  i  trihunu  miHtwm,  extemplo  capto  comiUo,  aoH 
mginii  i^nmvm  mUit&tu,  rtUcta  t3  parte  tuorvm,  quA  kaad 
iuiii  vinetiat,  brfoi  circttitti  dexlrum  comu  hotHum  aventaa 
wiwAf.''— LiT.  lib.  xxuiL  c^.  9. 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


484  VKttXCE  or  WKXKt.     [CSAP.  Xltl. 

Perseus,  on  his  side,  had  assembled  his  army 
under  the  walls  of  CitiumiZ  town  of  Macedoo, 
most  proluU)ty  situated  in  the  neigbboutbood  of 
Fella.  He  found  his  army  consisted  of  S9,000 
Ibot  and  4O00  horse.  *  Having  learnt  that  the 
Consul  had  commenced  his  march  from  Nym- 
pbseum,  through  the  £pirus»  the  King  of  Ma- 
cedoD  battened  to  be  the  first  to  take  ike  field. 
Crossing  brer  the  district  of  Eordffla,  Mid  as- 
cending the  course  of  the  Erigon  (InichoH), 
lie  encamped  near  Lake  Bcgorritet  (the  lake 
of  Kastwia),  whence  he  proceeded  to  ^ymsea, 
DO  the  banks  of  tbe  Halyacmon,  that  is,  to- 
wards Grevna.  He  afterwards  crossed  the 
mountains)  and  marched  towards  the  valley  of 
Tempe,  where  he  attempted  to  take  Gyrtpn 
(Baba) ;  but  the  Roman  garrison  having  op- 
posed hira  in  too  strenuous  a  manner,  he  turned 
off  towards  the  castles  of  Gonnus  and  Elatia, 
,  situated  near  the  passage  of  the  Feneus,  which 
be  surprised.  Having  again  fortified  these  two 
posts,  which  secured  to  him  the  passage  of  the 
valley  of  Tempe,  he  encamped  near  Sycurium. 
^C^tro-Siguro). 

*  *■'  Ipte  (Perseus)  -  pro^ut  Citium  est.  £8  Jam, 
•Miut  Sdaudonwa  exlemortmgtte  auaiiomm  eatvpeneraKt  copia, 
Vatlr^  ante  urbent  ponii,  omnesgttt  armatoi  in  catapo  tinuil 
•— .  Summa  to'-itu  exerctivs  trigmla  nffoem  TiaSia  pediiam 
trUTit,  jaatuor  eqvitum." — Lir.  libt  xUL  e^.  &l. 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


CHAP.  Xni.]      DEFENCE  OP  TURkET.  495 

Daring  this  time  the  Consul,  having  crossed 
over  the  Epirus,  was  conduicting  his  forces  on 
Gomphi  (Kalabaki),  by  Mount  Metzovo  j  a  very 
tash  enterprise,  which  might  have  brought  on 
the  loss  of  the  Roman  aimy  if  Perseus  had 
been  aware  of  the  advantages  of  defending 
these  passes.*  Licinius  having  refreshed  bir 
troops  at  Gomphi,  proceeded  on  to  Lariasa,  and 
«ncBmped  in- the  vicinity  of  that  place.  The 
two  armies  remained  for  some  time  in  inaction, 
till  Perseus,  desirous  of  drawing  the  Romans  to 
battle,  undertotA  to  ravage  the  whole  country 
round  Rwrae  (Velestin),  whose  inhabitants  were 
their  allies.  At  length  seeing  that  the  Consul 
remained  shut  up  within  his  lines,  the  King  o( 
Macedon  posted  himself  in  an  intrenched  camp 
five  miles  from  the  Romans.  This  vicinity 
brought  on  an  action  of  light  troops  and  cavalry, 
in  which  the  Romans  lost  2000  men.  After 
this  action  the  Consul  withdrew  behind  the  Pe- 
neus,  and  Perseus  encamped  between  the  valley 
of  Tempe  and  Larissa. 

Nevertheless,  after  several  marches  and  coun- 
ter-marches which  the  Romans  performed  on 

.  *  "  Ctuuul  Ronumut  per  eoadaa  dies  TheMsaliam  cum  ex«r- 
eitu  petens,  iter  expedilum  pritnoper  Epirum  habuiti  daade 
pottquam  in  Athamaniam  est,  transgressus  asperi  acpTopeinvH 
loli,  oum  ingentidiffiaUtate  parois  itineri&us  agri  Gomphosper- 
W7»t."— Lit.  lib.  xlib  cap.  55. 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


496  DEFENCE   OF  TUttKBT.      [CHAP.  XIII. 

the  Other  side  of  the  Peneus,  and  towards 
Crtmum  (Czataldza),  for  the  purposes  of  fo- 
raging, Perseus  having  attacked  their  foragers 
near  Phalnnna  (Dirilli),  was  beaten,  and  com- 
pelled to  retire  to  Mopaius  (Klisesi),  whence 
be  entered  into  Macedon,  there  to  take  up  his 
•  winter-quarters.  The  Consul*  after  making  a 
fruitless  attempt  on  Gonnus,. and  ravaging  the 
district  of  Perrheebia,  returned  to  Larissa, 
whence  he  passed  into  Bceotia,  and  there  put 
his  army  into  winter-quarters. 

The  following  year  the  Consul  Hostilius,  who 
was  commissioned  to  conduct  the  Macedonian. 
war,  performed  nothing  of  importance.  Ap- 
pius  Claudius,  one  of  his  lieutenants,  whom  be 
had  sent  to  Lychnidus  (Ochrida),  among  the 
Dessarette,  fell  into  a  snar&  laid  for  him  by  the 
inhabitants  of  Uscana  (Istarda),  and  lost  near 
2000  men  ;  this  town  was,  however,  soon  after- 
wards taken.  Perseus  seeing  that  the  Consul 
did  not  quit  Thessaly,  availed  himself  of  his  in- 
action, and  retook  Uscana.  Not  content  with 
.this  first  success,  he  attacked  and  successively 
took  Stubera  (Konitza)  and  (Eneum  (Samarina^ 
Having  afterwards  crossed  over  into  Elymsa, 
atid  seeing  that  the  Consul  stilt  remained  sta- 
tionary, he  passed  over  Mount  Citius,  notwith- 
standing the  great  snows,  in  order  to  surprise 
Stratus  (Enkili-Kastri)  i  but  Popilius»   one  of 


^lailizodbvGoOglc 


CHAP.  XIII.3      PEFENCE  OB  TUKXET^  49?. 

Hostilius*  lieutenanta  having  proceeded  there 
by  forced  inarches  from  Ambracia  (Arta)* 
Perseus  was  compelled  to  renounce  his  project 
tnd  to  return  into  Macedon. 

The  third  year  of  the  war,  the  Consul  Mar- 
C)U9  assumed  the  command  of  the  army  which 
he  found  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Fharsalia^ 
Resolved  to  enter  Macedon,  but  being  unable 
to  perform  this  operation  either  through  the 
valley  of  Tempe  or  Mount  Olympus,  whose 
passages  were  held  by  Ferseus,  he  determined 
to  make  a  great  circuit.  The  King  of  MacedoQ 
was  encamped  near  Z)ium  (not  far  from  S^ndia), 
on  the  sea-side,  with  his  principal  forces.  He 
had  detached  a  corps  towards  the  castle  of 
Lapethus  (Livadi),  to  guard  the  defiles  leading 
frooa  Larissa  and  Alassona,  and  a  second  coi|Mi 
guarded  the  Cambunian  Mountains.  The  coo* 
sul  fint  gained  the  district  of  TripoUs  and  tho 
sources  of  the  Aous  near  Tochali,  and  thence 
proceeding  along  thei  crests  of  the  mountains, 
not  to  engage  in  Elymeeaj  he  presented  himself 
before  Lapetlius  by  a  road  on  which  he  was  not 
expected ;  and»  having  forced  this  passage,  hq 
descended  towards  the  sea-side  near  Heracles 
(Litochoro).  Ferseus  in  alarm  withdrew  to 
Pydna ;  and  the  Consul,  having  proceeded  on* 
wards  in  the  direction  of  Dium,  ordered  his 
lieutenant  LucretiuS)  who  was,  at  Larissa,  to 
2k 


bv  Google 


498  DEFEMCB   OF  TURKEY.      [CHAF.  XIII. 

seize  on  the  passages  of  the  valley  of  Tnnpe. 
Marcius,  having  pillaged  Dium,  and  caused 
Heraclea  to  be  taken  by  one  of  his  lieutenants, 
returned  himself  to  the  latter  place,  where  he 
established  his  winter-quarters,  receiving  his 
supplies  of  provisions  from  Thessaly.  Perseus, 
finding  that  the  Romans  had  quitted  Dium,  re- 
turned there,  and  encamped  five  miles  beyond 
the  place,  behind  a  small  river  called  Gnipens. 

Finally,  the  fourth  year  the  Consul  Emilias 
FauUus,  having  forced  Perseus  to  a  general  bat- 
tle near  I^dna,  obtained  over  this  prince  a 
complete  victory.  The  inequality  of  the  ground 
bavingbrokentheMacedonianphalanx,  the  Con- 
sul, who  had  foreseen  this  circumstance  and  had 
disposed  his  order  of  battle  in  conformity  there- 
to, availed  himself  of  it  to  beat  the  phalanx  in 
detail,  and  put  it  into  disorder.  The  Macedo- 
nians lost  20>000  killed  and  11,000  prisoners; 
and  Perseus  being  soon  afler  taken  in  the  island 
of  Samothrace,  Macedon  became  a  Roman 
province. 

We  may  conclude  from  the  result  of  the  cam- 
paigns of  which  we  have  just  given  an  outline, 
1st,  That  the  expedition  of  Sulpicius  did  not 
succeed ;  because  Philip,  having  occupied  the 
passages  of  the  Epirus  and  Thessaly,  and  the 
vicinity  of  his*  army  preventing  the  people  of 
^tolia  from  declaring  in  £ivour  of  the  Romans, 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


CHAP,  xni.]    serENCE  of  tobket.  49d 

the  Consul  not  only  lost  his  time  ia  forcing  the 
passage  of  Mount  Totneriti  but  also  in  seizing 
on  alt  the  posts  necessary  to  cover  his  conimu' 
nicatibns.  The  Roman  array,  on  arriving  in 
Elymsa,  was  unable  to  sustain  itself  there 
while  the  Macedonians  were  in  the  Epirus,  and 
between  the  above  army  and  the  sea.  The  con^ 
sul  was  therefore  compelled  to  return  to  Aj^d- 
lonia,  and  lost  the  fruits  of  bis  campaign. 

2d1y,  That  the  campaign  of  Flaminius  was 
attended  with  the  greatest  success,  because,  this 
general  having  forced  the  passage  of  the  defile 
of  Klissoura,  and  compelled  Philip  to  evacuate 
the  Epirus,  the  success  of  this  expedition  de- 
cided the  JEtolians  and  Athamtnes  to  make  a 
diversion  in  eastern  Thessaly,  the  effect  of  which 
was  to  force  theking  of  Macedon  to  enter  into 
his  kingdom,  and  to  abandon  southern  Greece 
to  the  Consul. 

3dly,  That  the  two  first  campaigns  against 
Perseus  had  no  remarkable  result,  because  the 
Roman  generals,  not  knowing  how  to  avail 
themselves  of  advantages  afforded  to  them  by 
the  basis  of  operations  they  might  have  esta> 
blished,  on  the  one  side  in  Thessaly  and  ^tolia, 
and  on  the  other  in  Ill3rria,  lost  their  time  in 
useless  marches  and  in  fruitless  incursions. 

•4thly,  That  in  the  third  campaign  the  result  of 
the  daring,  and  possibly  rash,  march  of  the  Con- 
2IE3 

DiailizodbvGoOgle 


jDd  jmsmiE  or  tvucet.    {ouf.  xm. 

ml  Ubfoius  having  given  him  the  undisputed 
fKMsenion  of  the  deffles  leading  from  Tbeualy 
into.  Macedoo,  this  open^oo  prepared  the  ftH 
cf  PersetM.  This  Idng,  attacked  in  the  heart  of 
Ilia  dotiiiniona}  at  the  saiiie  time  that  he  was 
tiireateoed  os  the  north  l^  the  Dardanians,  had 
no  other  ht^s  tff  salvation  than  in  a  de<»aive 
victory. 

The  general  recapitulation  of  die  above  ob< 
nervations  may  easily  lead  to  consequences  ap- 
filtcable  to  the  present  times.  These  are.  tint 
Dalmatia  and  the  Ionian  I^nds  are  the  red 
keys  of  the  Ottoman  dominionB,  and  that  Italy  Js 
beyond  doubt  the  most  advantageoos  basis  of 
Operatioils  against  this  cmpiee.  Whatever  nay 
be  the  di&rence  between  the  age  in  which  the 
events  we  h^e  jjutt  sketched  took  place  and 
the  present  one,  the  leading  traits  are  the  same. 
The  dominion  uf  the  last  kings  of  Macedon  was 
.not  very 'difl^rent  from  the  actud  state  ^  the 
Ottoman  empore  in  Europe.  In  addkion  to 
Macedon  and  southern  lllyria  which  oensti* 
tuted  dicir  patrimony,  they  governed  lltessaity, 
Greece,  'properly  so  called,  the  Epirus,  Fefo- 
ponnesus,  and  Thrace,  -only  through  their  in- 
fluence. Noithern  lllyria  and  Dardama  mth 
jegard  to  t^em  were  in  the  same  position  as 
Albania  and  Servia  iiow  stand  in  towards  the  Ot- 
tomans, .always  ready  to  take  pait  agrniOt  lAieir 


^lailizodbvGoOglf 


•HAP.Xin.]      DBESHCE  OF  TUEKET.  501 

Tolers  as  soon  as  their  own  diiefi  could  rdy  <Hf 
foreign  aid. 

The  Romans,  holding  Corfii  xt  dieir  ^^Kwd, 
attadied  Macedon  through  the  Epims;  and 
fiom  the  tine  they  vere  Tnacters  of  the  htter 
province,  and  of  the  chain  of  mountains  whick 
separate  Theasidy  iroiB  the  ^love  Idngdoro,  the 
whole  of  Greece  was  lost  to  the  Macedonian 
kings.  This  blow  struck  at  their  power,  which 
ftom  that  moment  did  no  other  than  decline, 
and  thirty  years  afterwards  was  dashed  to  the 
ground.  In  like  manner,  at  the  present  time, 
that  power  which  may  be  mistress  of  Italy,  and 
also  possessed  of  Dalmatia  and  the  Ionian 
Islands,  might,  by  following  the  same  plan* 
cause  the  Ottomans  to  lose  one-half  of  their 
empire  in  Europe  in  a  single  campaign,  and 
threaten  the  rest  with  an  early  and  inevitable 
£dl.  The  union  of  these  two  keys  in  a  single 
hand  must  in&Ihbly  produce  the  result  we  have 
just  dehneated :  divided  between  two  diflerent 
hands,  the  second  alone  is  capable  of  effecting 
thesafety  of  the  Crescent.  The  year  1811  was 
to  the  Ottoman  empire  the  nearest  and  most 
probable  term  of  its  fall ;  the  whole  of  the  ele- 
ments which  might  have  accelerated  it  were 
then  in  one  powerful  hand.  ITie  decree  of  &te 
warded  off  the  storm,  and  it  cannot  be  again 
^med  under  so  threatening  an  aspect,  as  long 
7 

DiailizodbvGcjOglc   - 


■tOtt'.         ..    inmicE  OF  TUMCET.    £eHiUp.  xnt 

l^lliie  power,  to  vhoni  the  protection  of  the 
Ionian  Islands  is  confided,  equally  'wi^es  to 
sliicM  ttie  Ottoman  empire,  en:  At  least,  to  pro- 
mote  the  indivisibility  of  that  psrt  of  tfae  Enro- 
pesn  continent  over  whidi  the  Crescent  holds 
mxy,  should  it  be  resolved  that  this  shall  bo 
3os^;er  be  under  the  MusBulman  dominion. 


THE  END. 


_,  ,i,z<,i:,.,  Google 


^lailizodbvGoOglf 


^laiiizodbvGoogle 


I 


,Nz<,i:,.,  Google 


^laiiizodbvGoogle